255 RSW 1918 Gibson L3 This One Made Me Cry Part 1
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- This old war horse has seen better days. But with a lot of hard work I am able to bring it back to at least some if it's former glory.
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Thanks for this video Mr Rosa. I have a luthiers shop in NW Indiana and I get jobs like this all the time. i had a neck re-set on a d-28 where some repair guy in Chicago had used a three part eboxy to re-set the neck. I guess he figured it would be the last time anybody would ever do one on this guitar. Well 10 yr's later it winds up in my shop and hloy cow what a mess!! I can relate to your frustration.
Yep! Good luck to you. Thanks for watching.
That is fantastic Jerry! Don't be so hard on yourself that it's not perfect! It looks a thousand times better!
If the customer isn't happy with that, he can pound salt!!
Thank You - enjoyed the entire video.
Great work. Learned a lot. Thanks.
There are though "Best Practices for Repair," and that's what we should be trying to follow. Many times though, it does come down to, there's really only one method by which something should be repaired, effectively, efficiently and aesthetically.
That Sir, is something I've regularly observed in your videos.
As an antique restorer I can give you a tip about the finish problem you encountered. You are right about trying to spot match old finishes, it is tough. What works for me is to get the whole surface to a common color / tone first and then adjust as needed. The way that works best for me is to mix up a solution of 50% alcohol and 50% paint thinner and dip a pad of extra fine steel wool in the solution and begin using a circular motion to massage the old finish. This lifts the old finish and allows you to manipulate ity. You can use this technique remove as much or as little of the old finish as you want. In the case of the guitar you are working on I would try to leave as much of the original finish and color as I could. You can even out the finish across the lighter spots and once you have that done you can let it dry. After it dries you can decide whether to adjust the overall color / tone or not. BUt, you have to get an overall color / tone rather than trying to spot match. Once satisfied you can apply a clear finish if desired. Use super fine steel wool to smooth after the solvent procedure and to prep for finish.
Good tip.
Lots of great tips in this video... Thanks.
That is why i like watchin most of your videos bcoz of the way you see things and a down to earth attitude 👍
You can perfectly match the back with some shellac mixes with coulor and airbrush over the spots...i have done it many times...but i work as a professional artist-painter.
Mr Rosa, you are the best thing on UA-cam. Don't ever stop.
Hey Jerry (hope that's how you spell it) I just discovered your channel a few days ago, and boy am I hooked. I can't remember being more entertained and learning so much in a long long time. I just subscribed and have probably watched 50 installments before I did but I can't find a single thing I don't like about your presentations. Your no nonsense approach and added playing and singing have entertained me thoroughly. I have 7 guitars (I'm not a good player but I love the instrument) and they all play a little better because of things I've learned from you. I'm not a young man (64yrs.) but I intend on playing until they lay me down. thanks to you it's going to be a lot more enjoyable. Many thanx
I'll be 64 on the 28th
Have a great one!!!! and I'll have a soda in your honor
Jerry, I think you are your own toughest critic. You do impecable repairs. Peace
Thanks or sharing!
Nice going Jerry,it is what it is,only better now !
i love what you said!! "I didn't create this problem. I'm just trying to FIX it,"
Good to see a new video. Thanks.
I have some old Guitars two old builds bye C F Martins one is 56003 arched front and back Maple all org Electric F hole Vega price tag still on it put away since it was bought both with org case. the other is From New York Bruno Company a Tenner Guitar if I remember right its a 1840s model but the low E key is striped right as it gets tuned. I took it in to a few shops in Seattle for repair no one knew how it was built and were afraid to try . Im a Engineer I never seen another build like it . It has to come out through the front nothing on the back and just two shaft holes one on the front one on the side every thing else is sweet... All so a T Haruo Flate Top Box the best sound of them all while in the Guitar Stand on a Concrete floor no Vibration it came flying out like some one kicked it. I saw it 10 feet away ??? my Son saw it. The front of the Head hit the floor hard and split the Neck American Music said it cant be fixed as did others so Im disabled shot on money I opened the crack cleaned it out and used Elmer's wood glue clamped it and waited two weeks and put light strings on it 15 years ago and its been playing ever since you could play this Guitar at the Garden my friend Dave and I traveled from Eugene Oregon Salem Portland then Alaska playing Guitars $100,000 worth in all in just one of the shops until we found this one. Some thing real special about this one it plays like a dream. A true blessing this Guitar saved my life a long story but its doing its job. enjoy love your work A+
Excellent repairs Jerry, you are one of a kind , your repair videos are excellent & Thanks.
Jerry, Thanks for the instruction on all your videos. I have learned more from you than any other luthier. Keep them coming!
Thanks Jerry for all the knowledge I've gathered within the last 3 years of watching your videos.. May GodBless you with many more
Looking good Jerry! 👍👍
I gotta tell you Jerry if that was my guitar and I had you addressing the issues I would be fine with what you have done. It still looks like the antique is was when it arrived and the back, well it look good in my opinion. I do not believe you have taken away of the ware at all. Heck it is extremely old! Beautiful job Jerry!
It's looking pretty! Good job!
Hi Jerry, its so very good to see you!
Excellent work!
Absolutely, a thumbs up. That’s so good looking. Congratulations. Looking forward to part two
Great repair looks way better and sealed aswell,im sure the customer will be pleased,Cheers
Just rewatched this. Here’s another thumbs up. 👍
Great tip about the wedges to get the end pin out. Awesome metalwork advice too. Great job as usual.
Incredible work , sympathetic to the customer and the back an headstock look like they should , not brand new but used and repaired with age now you have worked worked your magic , outstanding .
When I started learning rudimentary woodworking an old neighbor would mix the wood glue with fine saw dust to fill old holes and divots as well as the toothpicks. Thanks for letting us watch. Narragansett Bay
I've done that thousands of times. The problem if the hole is very large is that glue and sawdust shrinks a lot. For tiny little dance hits perfect but for anything bigger than the end of a pinhead it's not that great.
@@RosaStringWorks: Jeb Sails: I always whittle a small piece of wood to size then stuff in there, works wonders :) However, the old PVA and sawdust technique is something I have used successfully over the years :) Great Video Grandpa J. we are kindred spirits ;) Englishman in rural Thailand.
Another amazoing job!!! Going to part two!!!
Another example of Jerry can fix anything. Jerry you will say"Oh no, not everything", but at least every video you have done is an incredible repair/restore on so many instruments. Love you and your videos! Can't wait to see pt.2 and how it turned out. Thanxz
Omg finally a video but it’s very long so it was worth the wait
Outstanding job,never sell yourself short,you are the man ,Jerry
Beautiful work. A difficult fix but well handled. Can’t wait for the next bit.
Hi Jerry, Ian from Tassie here. It's funny as in when I saw this video I constantly said to myself as you are coming up to a problem, 'why don't you do it this way' lol, then guess what? you do it that way lolololol. Great video as usual Jerry. I just restored a Gibson Kalamazoo for a client. It was her mothers during WW2. She bought it off an American GI who had to pawn it while in Australia.
Good work as usual! a little tip for you, sand with olive oil or food grade oil to lubricate your paper over shellac!
Man oh man, Master Class I am so impressed
I found your videos very interesting, thank you! And I really enjoyed this one, that back couldn't be better, nice work!
I've been enjoying your videos for a few days now.
Watching you make the new tool was pretty amazing
Fantastic work. Waiting on You!
thats a kick ass vice you have! Wilton makes some good stuff
Thanks for sharing, Jerry. No telling how many times this axe has changed owners but it's so obvious it wasn't taken care of, at all...
One other observation.... Happy Turkey.... And a safe and Happy Christmas. TY for your vids
You did fine! It looks good for what it is.
We've missed you Jerry. This video was very rewarding, though! Can't wait for part 2.
Your repairs usually turn out great and I expect this one to be a real winner too.
Yes i like it. Looks more like an old cared for guitar than an old abused one and your work will extend its playing life. Cheers for sharing.
The back looks fantastic now with the buffing, can't wait to see the end result. Lovely job.
One thing about any acoustic guitar modern or vintage I love, is when you look inside it always looks like an old basement.
Ohhhh how I love the smell of tempering steel in oil, such great memories!!
Thank you for posting this video and especially for saving this old Gibson.
You are doing a fantastic repair. I had a1918 Gibson L1 in pretty good condition
and sold it to my buddy. I put a L R Baggs IBeam in it for him and it reproduces the sound
perfectly. I love old Gibson’s. Thanks again for saving this old warrior, I’m going to search for part 2.
Kenny hughes
Another great video Jerry, and glad to see it too, its been a while. Cant wait to see part 2.
Nice job.
Beautiful !!
Love it. You're a good man, Jerry Making the right calls. So looking forward to part two.
What a job! Good work Mr. Jerry. I would have been cryin too. Haha
You are truly a Renaissance man, Jerry! I love the blacksmith work. Great stuff.
Craftsmanship! Nice work.
boy oh boy, I get a lot of them where I have to repair the repairs too and can tell you it doubles the work and makes the job twice as hard to fix right. you're doing some fine work, can't wait to hear it!
Randy Schartiger Randy you are so right and after seeing your repairs, you know exactly what it takes to bring these instruments back from bad repairs and make them as good as they can be. You and Jerry are brought instruments as a last chance! Thank goodness you guys are around to show the proper way to treat bad repairs! Thanxz
Hey Randy!!! Good to see you on here....been there done that many many times myself...i feel your pain!!!
love your videos !! keep em up please !!!!
It does look nice Jerry keep up the good work. I trusted you with my guitar and anything you needed to do was done. It plays great. I think this costumer will be real happy.
So good to see you back, Jerry...Was starting to worry!! Great video, as always, you are doing the right thing (IMHO)!
Really amazing work. Total commitment. A life's passion 👍. Thanks for sharing Jerry 🎶🎶🎶
Informative and entertaining Video!
Great job jerry, pretty scary from the start,
No excuses needed, you did an awesome job as usual.
Great stuff good sir!
Yess! My dad taught me that one of the hardest things in life is relickin someone else’s calf! Fixin someone else’s poor, mediocre repairs can entail many hours of work, because you have to undo their poor, ignorant efforts to repair, fix something!
Jerry, I don't know my butt from a hole in the ground about instrument building and repair. Other than drums, I can make drums. So that's why I am watching your videos. That said, I do know a lot about restoring and blending old finishes. I owned a cabinet shop and restored antique furniture for roughly 20 years in the 1980's and 1990's. And that taught me about blending new into old with finishes. And there is one "product" that we used to use constantly that I haven't seen you try. And that is artists oil paints. Specifically raw and burnt sienna and raw and burnt umber. Using these four colors we could blend in 90% of the repairs. And 80% of the time we grabbed burnt umber. This stuff is very dark and pretty much opaque. The trick is that our eyes see light things rather than dark things. So making a repair darker than the surrounding wood makes the repair disappear. The problem with artist oils is drying time. A repair had to be recolored then allowed to dry before we retouched the finish. Once dry it only sands off. Wet it is easy to clean off with a variety of solvents, including turpentine. And as such you can pull or blend the oil paint with a turp rag.
According to my eye doctor I am profoundly colour blind
Great Video as always!
It´s good to have you and your skills back on the screen. The ole Gibson with all the
"reversed modifications", will shine again after the next episode.
I'm liking your style, it seems very close to my own approach to repairing old instruments...no fancy tools, and figuring out a work-around to each problem as they arise.
Nice work.
....and again i learned a lot from the best......
Really good to see you back on UA-cam Jerry. Terrific work as ever. The wedges to dislodge the end pin... genius. I'd have grabbed the pliers and ruined it!
i think you are doing a great job can't wait for part 2
Very nice. I don't play any instruments or work on them. I have musician friends though and watching your videos helps understand what they go through in keeping structual integrity but also keeping ware which to them, there is a story behind each mar and blemish. History imprinted on the instrument.
Very nice video. Your videos are interesting.
Nice job Jerry! I like what you did to that Gibson. Looking forward to part 2! 😁👍
I'm so amazed about the approach taken *forging* the chisel vs machining it ! There's always other ways to do things and new things to learn.
I greatly appreciate your honesty and all the carefulness you took to repair this awfully damaged old Gibson guitar.
Really enjoying the demostration of your skills. There are Non-blooming CA Accellerators you won't have to worry about turning the glue white. The white is from boiling the glue while it is in the liquid form. Try Mercury brand accell. It's a slightly slower accell so you don't create enough heat from chem reaction to cause boiling. The CA they sell is made here in the USA and usually 2 to 3 months newer than CA's manufactured in China and shipped here. I am a professional modeler, laser cutter and RC airplane kit producer among other things.
I think the back looks pretty darn good compared to what it started out like. Looking forward to part 2!
hey Jerry! for the bigger holes on the headstock, bamboo skewers work well!!! you can even shave them to fit!
The reason I use the toothpicks on this one specifically was the holes were not round they were in weird shapes. The toothpicks conform to all the different spaces. I have used other things in the past
@@RosaStringWorks --Ahh......got ya ;-)
I was about to send a posse up to check on you! Great Job! Miss y’all.
What a enjoyable video. Really nice to see the tool you made !! That back looked extremely thin, great touch
You've been missed. Thought those cement blocks messed you up, there were so many. We've been haunting UA-cam waiting for you to re-appear, and concerned a bit too. Really glad to see you again.
I Love this Repairman ~ I would Trust him with My Guitars Anytime ~~ Keep Rockin' ~~ !!
Your skills are amazing. I love watching you work and explain what exactly you’re doing. It’s inspiring. Keep up the good work. My wife thinks it’s weird that I can sit and watch this without getting bored. Cheers!
"Dads know a lot- Grandpas know everything." Very good, let's have a big hand for the greybeards who keep this world turning!
Another valiant repair! The word I think you are looking for in the fabric department is “bias tape.” It is cut at 45° to the cloth grain and is more elastic.
I noticed a lot of ads on this one. I’m not complaining, as it’s good for you. It’s just something I noticed.
As an accountant, your comments remind me of myself looking at the "work" of other accountants.
Considering the circumstances, I like the lines on the back where you fixed it because it was done with such care and dedication. That turned a dreadfully crude repair into a positive chapter in the instruments history.
Looking Good!
Glad to see a new video Jerry. Was hoping that everything was all right with you.
Great to see you back Jerry!
You actually did a good job on describing the hardening of the steel. The hardness is determined by the carbon content and the quenching method. A good steel is 4150, which has a 50% carbon. The quenching can be water, oil or air. A water quench gives you a Martensite microstructure, which is very hard and brittle. A oil quench gives you a ferrite microstructure, which isn't as hard and brittle. The last is air cooling which gives a soft pearlite microstructure (annealing). .
Ft.
The back looks great
My 2cents would be to use a garnet colored shellac to tint the back a little darker over all and if applied like a french polish it may even out the color. I do believe you are an expert and a true Pro no matter what you say.