Dirt Cheap DIY Oil Pan Modifications For The Home Engine Builder
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2022
- Unfortunately most people don't think about their oil pan until they lunch an engine because of slosh or starvation.
Here's a quick guide on the basics, controlling windage, increasing capacity and keeping the oil down in the sump under hard acceleration and Braking. Plus, update on the Turbo Slant Six Build and the most obscure Mopar trivia you've heard all day.
#musclecar #classiccar #engines #oil #engineassembly #smallblock #slantsix #chrysler
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If you are building your own performance oil pan, get catalogs for Milodon, Morose etc. The pictures of their pans have a lot of useful info you can try to copy.
The slant 6 as a hot rod engine is a great exercise in overcoming design challenges . It’s the things that are difficult that are sometimes the most rewarding. If it was easy everybody would do it !
Just a shame they sound so terrible. I've never heard a ohc 6 cylinder that I like the sound of.
@@MrShakotan BMW or Alfa Romeo 6 cylinder engines sound great, although I still prever a V8.
ua-cam.com/video/S7rCGda4Ab8/v-deo.html This is an inline 6 cylinder in a 1936 Chevy Pickup Truck Pulling 8 second 1/4 mile times. Since then and I belive they pulled a 6 second 1/4 mile of memory serves me.
If you brush off the flux before you make a second pass, it reduces the chance of porosity. Also if you're welding closer to the mounting surface, bolt the pan onto an old block or something flat so it doesn't warp. Flux welders get the metal hot. And if you're heating the metal to shape it, there's more chance of warping. Just my 2 cents.
The pan looks great by the way.
my welding instructor was a stickler for wire wheeling the bead at every stop, even with argon/co2 mix and solid core wire. It worked really well on anything you didn't want leaking.
@@Pegleg302 im a tig guy personality, coff up once evan if my personal car project takes longer and not need to reweld and grind for hours needlessly but thats me im not into donkey work 🤠
Well thats cool... Pontiac had HP parts on most 4 barrel engines, baffled pans, windage trays, dual springs, air gap intakes. I have a big pile of baffled pans and windage trays, even some oil deflectors for the rocker arms.
Pontiac always built a good solid high performance car back in those days using tried and true technology. I had a lot of respect for them even though I never owned one. I always slightly preferred (and therefore owned) Buick simply because they liked to try innovative things (that mostly worked out; sometimes not) but I had Pontiac friends and you just hardly ever could go wrong with that brand.
In a previous video UT gave us the answer to everything! Bondo! A little grinding and Bondo! Paint it up and it will look like one of those high dollar ones out of the hot rod mags! Especially if you use chrome in a can!
On a serious note looking good and moving along.
Omg your completely right!! BONDO! Of course!
Take a look at a stock oil pan for an early Porsche 924. The engine was slanted but so was the pan. Huge sump w/ baffles off to the side and giant heat sinks. Such a beautiful pan for such a basic car.
Love your channel!!! Takes me way back. In the late 80's I built and installed a 1958 392 Chrysler Hemi in a 1966 Dodge 3/4 ton pickup. If I recall correctly we had to modify the oil pan.
"Your grandma could have done better with a wet linguini and a mop" I lost my shit when I heard that. Im stealing that saying! ill trade you "Looks like Ray Charles welded it with his feet".
Hey Uncle Tony, a tip for finding leaks in this situation, use a stiff mix of glycol and water. Glycol will find a leak that water will not pass through. Other option is using gas but PITA to clean and re weld. Strongly suggest wire wheel and degrease before you continue from here.
I am a weldor, nothing wrong with flux core when given the right conditions, every welding process works better on clean shiny metal. You may find your porosity improves with a little prep.
I can't wait to see some updates on this build. This one should be really cool.
I really like the backyard approach of modifying the stock pan. Who cares about whether the welds look pretty or not, just as long as they work. It's not a show car. Keep it up, great stuff
Grinding, and paint make me the welder I ain’t 😊!
Beat it to fit paint it to match 😁
Building the 318 that came in my 68 D200 pickup, the old Sweptlines had freaking front sump pans. Looking at it the "sump" isn't very deep at all, like 5 quarts will probably lay out all the way to the back.
Great video! I'll definitely be looking into some pan improvements.
Easiest way is to put your body on a 72 and up frame.
@@jonathoncouchey7151 Absolutely not interested in doing a frame swap. I'm souping up the engine a bit but not building a race truck.
@@bobbyz1964 A rear sump pan will fit the sweptline. I have a short video that shows it.
@@CCR414 Was in hurry last night for a comedy show. Looking at it now it's not the OEM pan it's a 394 4 quart car pan. Initially I thought the 68 D200 had it's original 318, the engine dates to 1968. However the truck was purchased in October 1967 according to the aluminum ID card in the owners manual.
Looks like finding a rear sump pan is the way to go. The way the 394 pan is all the oil would go to the back if I took off fast and I plan to do that from time to time. If I can afford to floorboard it. . .
Apparently a Sweptline will take about any pan you want to toss in there, car pan really surprised me. Every swap I've tried with the wrong pan I had to go find the right pan.
@@bobbyz1964 I was told a rear sump would not work, but like to check things out for myself. That is what I'm going to run. I like to take off hard once in a while myself. The gas pedal goes to the floor for a reason!
ALWAY interesting listening to you break down the why’s and how to’s of these issues a lot of us never really think about thanks for the hard work and knowledge that you are passing on to another generation of DIY or driveway hot rodders
I have never seen a stock small block oil pan with baffles. I can send you photos of the pan modifications I make to a stock pan. I also run an accusump system. The first one I had back in the 80's used an old kidde fire extinguisher, solonoid valve and hydraulic lines.
Once again Tony, great information.
Tony, your welding actually encouraged me as I also use a flux core MIG. Thanks for the tip on filling pinholes.
Don't forget to put an oil return bung, for the oil return from the turbo, in the oil pan...... and it must be above the oil filled level.
A U shaped stand pipe above the oil level works great too.
If u think I’m wrong try it and see how good it siphons
Ford actually drilled holes in the block just above the oil pan on the 2.3
@@aprules2 Yah, Chrysler did the same with the 2.2L and 2.5L turbos.....
Welding with a mop and wet linguini is the more professional weld great post tony
Good tips. Thanks Tony. Cheers from western Canada.
i have been welding for years. and build more than one "oil pan". one thing i learned.... sweat it with brazing rod, or there'll most likely be leaks. (as you mentioned) perosity is one thing. air is another. brazing rod (or solder/silver solder) simplifies that...
When doing donuts with a slant six. The oil will hold in the head , and the oil light will come on. You can only go in one direction. In college I done a work study program, work for maintenance on campus. Had a D series flat hood with a 225. Some times it was known to cut a few donuts in the back lots.
Not.making fun..but when I saw the weld. The first thing that came to mind was Frankensteins neck. Love yuh show bro
UTG-, I appreciate your channel and content thank you for sharing and keep up the excellent work.
Those welds on that pan remind me of the stiches around Frankenstein's neck Don't sweat it. We're not at a beauty pageant, here
Tony you are the best it looks good
"Start sucking bubbles."
😁 I'm gonna incorporate that into some sort of insult.
Just a recommendation: Use gasoline to check for leaks. It's viscosity is much thinner than water and it'll find ALL the small holes. Also, it dries quicker than water so you can get back to welding up the holes sooner than waiting on water to evaporate. Flux core isn't the preferred method for welding a pan, but I understand and support your "anyone can do this in their own garage with basic tools" mentality. Great video!
Haha i was gonna say that. Use gasoline with colorant
Blast that weld bead, put a coat of JBWeld on the outside, it should seal up fine.
either that or Bondo.
powernation did a build on a turbo Ford 300 straight six..thing made some pretty good numbers HP and torque wise...im interested to see what a Slant Six will do..
Watched that build and it did make good numbers. Always liked that 300 6. Had a '92 150. It was a gas eater
My turbocharged slant made roughly 500 hp. It was enough to pull my 3,200 lb '65 Belvedere 1 through the ¼ MILE in 10.34 seconds. That was a fun car!
@@brucejones2354 I owned to slants. Bulletproof motor.
@@driedbrainfreeze2149 that engine was a VERY RUGGED piece of equipment. You would find them just about everywhere, welders, JLG forklifts, very large pumps, just look around a construction site in the 60s through the 80s.
Awesome job tony
Thank you great info as always mate
I should’ve done this when I rebuilt my engine a year ago
🇦🇺💯👍
VERY INFORMATIVE .....UTG THANKS.👍👍👍👍
i use atf as leak check ,water evidently has larger molecules than atf i had to fix a trans pan and it passed leak check with water but when it filled with atf it had many tiny leaks thats my experience
Skid plate love it. I had a 73 charger . When I got the car it had a small block but was a original big block car. One of the issues of putting my 400 LB into the charger was the oil pan my engine came from a 74 furry and oil pan wouldn't work. I had to get a $400 dollar mildon oil pan for it . I know there are stock pans but honestly they were not much cheaper had 3 deals fall through before I just got the aftermarket one. Anyway going down town one night the pan got scraped right at the drain plug . Irony it was scraped by a manhole cover. Lol
The car did sit low to the ground. I used to pull the front over our ditch just to change the oil.
That was actualy a very fun car most of the cars close to mine have those slated side windows mine had the role down windows and the center console shifter which was sort of a gated shifter. But the handal was junk had to remake it . Also the 400 LB made respectable power .
Put some fins under oil pan good idea for cooling
HOWdy U-T-G,
Oil Pan Fabrication
THANKS
COOP
...
I'm pretty happy with my stock oil pan with stock pickup in my slant6 but with the windage tray I made for my slant6 on my youtube channel to deal with the oil not staying where its suppost to . I'll also use BG oil additives RF-7 with MOA to aid in the lubrication of the bearings and rings and fuel pump arm / eccentric especially since slant6's have a weak spot the #1 and #6 bearings. Now if I was to race it would be a diffent story and do like Tony did .
I had to go with a pan that had side kick outs to preserve my pan. Bottoms of the header tubes have scrape marks on them and not from speed bumps either. Full travel on suspension leaves marks.
The frankenpan is cool 😎
Just bought a "replacement" car pan to put on the 98 360 Magnum going into my 73 Road Runner,eventually..I know what Im doing tonight!
Yeah I think the rear sumo really helped solve a l ot of the oiling issues on the slant 6 in the pickups.
I will love my small block chevys for the rest of my life!!!
Lately youve seemed agravated and your new york was showing but This was a great video. The kind of video that made me a regular to utg.
As a flux welder myself, I totally get the little holes and leaks thing. Welding exhaust pipe I fight that with blow outs too. Water does work well to find those little leaks.
This is going to be such a cool build! I feel your machine shop pain brother. I've been waiting 2 weeks and counting just for a damn sonic check.
Good Video TONY...As you well know most drain plugs are in the back of rear and mid-sump designs. Custom rodders learn early on to mount their engines at the proper degreed angle or it throws everything off. Such as in Chevrolets, if the motors not tilted rearward it not only won't oil properly, but the carburetor bowls won't be level and transmission and U-joint problems will occur. Even on front feed FORDs such as the FE, the drain plug is in the back of the sump.
Some of the replacement Ford FE front sump oil pans have the drain plug on the side instead of the rear. Not sure why, the original rearward location was perfect. Oh well, I don't have to crawl as far under those cars now at least.
Wow its the first time i watch one of your videos i loved it! You are supernatural and very explanatory, you talk like you were talking to yourself, and its great! Im building a Ls swap Bmw e30 and i modified my pan to make it fit next to the subframe and this is why i ended up watching your video. I moved my oil pan sump to the front and now i was wondering how much of the oil gets out of the pan while flooring it for more than 10 secondes because im afraire it will suck air and blow the engine. Haha i said suck and blow in the same sentence 😂 anyway i am subscribing and what is the car in the back it looks amazing!
I'm still laughing picturing my Italian grandma putting a piece of wet linguini on an oil pan, then hitting it with a mop
I saw a custom done oip0an for a 7m3 hodzilla on the revan Evan youtube channel. They used some door hinges and springs as part of compartmentalized bottom on that windage tray.
Now do a diy home engine builder dry sump system!
My daddy said if you have to grind it. You a grinder, not a welder. 😂🤣 You asked for it I just delivered! Regardless if you are welding thin sheet metal with a harbor freight fluxcore that shoots slag en every place imaginable. If it don't leak. It's a success in my book
Situation like that I still like old school being oxy/acetylene. First skill I learnt and still find it just works.
I’ll never forget watching my second ex-step Dad. He was a real man.
He laid on his back and welded in a muffler with nothing but a torch a coat hanger his can of flux.
Best part was he did it in 30min- after a hard day of work.
@@fastinradfordable Can't beat oxy for welding exhausts with a it of rust.
@@fastinradfordable With a cig in his mouth rolled by himself, screw filters, and beer between his legs. Amirite? I Was the same way.
One trick on welding a pinhole is to take a drill bit, and drill a little way into it, so the point of the drill bit takes a little cone of material out... and hopefully you'll hit the little chunk of "shmoo" that's INEVITABLY buried in the pinhole, and then it welds up nice
I used a modified windage tray sold by Ed Hamburger Performance. He called it an "oil scraper". I don't know if it gave me an the extra 10 hp. but the concept looked good.
Would a Crank scraper work on a slant 6. Just a thought from an old roder gearhead. Love the video and content. Keep them coming.
I now have gone to studs on my oil pan mounts and flanged nuts. Instead of bolts.
Man, you're giving me the craving to whip up a clear oil pan to see what's going on in there. (Maybe at least windowed). Off to look at plastic specs...
for a fluxcore welder that is a decent looking weld. just seal it with JB in and out
I would make the skid plate out of something much thicker than that if you want it to help
is it pretty no does it work yes. i put a 302 in my 4wd ranger everyone you see online has a body lift mine doesn't so to make it short notching a fox body oil pan to fit was one of many screwy things needed. but the satisfaction of overcoming the surprises made it good in the end. if the parts don't exist will them into reality your efforts are the only limit of achievement.
If you can get a good straight cut through the sump I've seen people just weld a band of metal on and put the old bottom back on, or build a sheet metal box and add wings while they're at it.
I put a windage tray in an old diesel rabbit and gained 20hp in corners.
Maybe not that much ,but instead of slowing down it would hold speed.
That's a power increase.
Make a video about it?
2 words dry sump one system rules them all!
Where do you get a cheap scav pump? Best I could ever figure was a big industrial hydraulic pump/motor, but that's heavy.
1979 Slant six Dodge Truck has rear sump pan. I had oil pump gear spin off the shaft in that truck so I weled the oil pump gear on the end of the shaft, there is no key or nothing, the drive gear in the oil pump is just pressed on, a welder can fix it with a welder and a grinder! What do you think of the sliding baffles in the oil pans for drag racing? How about Crankshaft wiper?
I finish my porous areas with acetylene welding.
I’ve done a similar pan graft using a small block rear sump truck pan onto a 400 center sump pan because they don’t make a rear sump truck pan that I’m willing to pay for lol
Once that weld is ground it will look great.
Been thinking about my front sump motorhome bb oil pan i should be able to cut the mounting flange and make it rear sump (unless I find a factory bb truck oil pan)
Great explanation. Modifying oil pans sucks. it takes forever. That actually looks really good. Seems like a slant may benefit from a crank scraper.
It's funny. These modifications give a lot of the benefits that the high dollar racers go for when going to a dry sump.
"Wet linguini and a mop". I'm trying it.
Missed opportunity to Bondo the pan. 😆
the first car the sbc came in, 1955, is rear steer. tri five chevys are rear steer. I'm not sure what year they changed to front steer
Find it hilarious how Tony points out the areas where the trolls will nitpick before they can even post about it with the welds 😂😂😂😂
In addition to the modified pan and pickup, what about windage tray/crank scraper?
As long the welds hold is good 👍
I love Uncle Ton destroying any self confidence left in Stubie's character .. This is gonna end in a firefight lol
Can 2.4 dohc heads be made to fit a slant six block? I saw a video where a guy put ls heads on a ford 300 straight 6.
Hi Tony if you put a couple of welds in the front half of the pan on an angel would it create enough turbulence to force the oil back . And we use to make a 7 or 8 quarter pan and put 5 in to keep it away from crank. But you've probably thought of but thought I'd mention it
Ha, my experience has been that most people run the rated capacity and don't actually understand the benefit of using a larger capacity deep sump pan and running it lower than the advertised capacity. It boggles my mind how some folks really can't understand how that works and most people believe more oil capacity is just better period.
Uncle T ,to increase the boat oil pan, my father went "sideways" for 2 qt extension for racing purposes. fyi
1965-70 Chevy full size are rear steer cars also
I've used engine restore, it has some cnc stuff or something?chemical, but it is a super lube!
Just a thought, if going onto a rear steer car and the drain plug is in the front of the sump, will you have clearance between the steering linkage and the drain? Sure it will be fine but made me think.
My pinto engine had a seven qt oil pan the oil pick up was never changed so the pick up was a inch or more off the pan never had a problem
that thing is deep as fk. its not going anywhere but in the pickup
What’s your take on crank scrapers uncle Tony?
I can always tell when your done.
So thats it.
that pan has the skull cap of Frankenstein
CULT LEADER UTG!!!
With a deeper sump and higher volume pump, wouldn't you need to remove any casting in the returns? I would think that it would still suck it dry if it can't return it fast enough.
Could be worse, I have Fords with dual sump pans. Front is just there for the pump to have somewhere to be, the actual sump is in the back. Steering basically passes through the middle of the pan where the cross member is. Two of them have the rack there, the other one is a center link.
Get it here, your Slant6 oil pan modification tips...
Your welcome Slant6 owner's
Did they ever use crank scrapers ?
Next up swing arm oil pick ups like they had in Trans-Am racing.
I have those in my old farmall tractors from the 40s. Wonder if that's where the idea came from?
@@stevetaylor9265 I don't know?
@15:54 i would buy or make a crank wiper
If a welding job holds then it was a good weld! No matter the quality of the weld appearance!
What about oil additives clogging returns and stuff?
Does the fact that a slant 6 is tilted affect it's ability to keep from starving for oil?
Is it ok to take volume out of the sump
I’ve never seen a small block oil pan with factory baffles. my 340 swinger stock oil pan doesn’t have a baffle. windage tray but no baffle.