Blackie, Thanks for sharing this, You have taught me so much about the percussion cap and ball . Thank you for sharing your Time and knowledge and wisdom and experience. You Are The Master Woodsman and Bushcrafter. Thanks Again. Tim L.
Another great video!! Have you given any thought to putting your tips and tricks into printed form? Or putting your Black Powder Series onto a disk? Keep up the good work!.
Dang boy, never had a problem with mine even shooting max loads, but this is one for the toolbox if I see somebody having this problem, an yes I have seen this happen to others, now I know. Thx for the vid Blackie
I have twice deepened the notch to get more travel ...just because I did not like the "rattle" ....the load lever wasn't held tightly enough and felt "wiggly"
@@BLACKIETHOMAS no! If it was spring tension I just replace it with a stronger spring. I'll try a describe what has help me in the past. Typing now and keeping a thought straight these days isn't simple. So if when I'm done and it's still clear as mud, we will have to figure out another communication angle. So the latch hook attached to the bottom of barrel is roughly shaped like a 1970s upside down. Making it tapered. Now you've squared off the top of the hook which is good. Here is the point left needing a little attention. The latch itself is the shape of a rectangle needing only the top surface of rectangle to bearing surface with the newly squared contact point on the stationary hook... with me so far?? Now we have to well establish surfaces squared off to make great bearing surface with great care, yet but wait. We are asking a bloated upside down triangle to a constant rectangle on the female end of this wedding of working parts coming short of perfection. ( as in we have still half a bevel trying to fill in squared off receptacle and she ain't likening what we're offering) in conclusion, if the top outside of the hook is ready, and the top inside of the latch is likes the colone you are wearing than only thing left keeping this marriage reaching consummation is the lack of a bevel at the bottom of the non bearing surface of the rectangle . A little relief will go a long way . Now after all that I'm not ever going be sure I effectively got my point across, and took 20 times longer to type than it would have taken me just to do it.
I acquired two Uberti Dragoons a few years ago and both dropped the loading levers even with light loads. Filing the catch did nothing and I finally figured out what you described about driving out the pin and filing the latch. Works great unless I load pretty heavy and use a heavier heel bullet the will still occasionally drop.
Yes that is the exact same thing I did to mine and I do think the adjustment at the end of the ramrod is imperative it just works great you can tell the stiffness in it now and never dropped again
good to KNOW! I just had an Uberti Dragoon IN MY hand yesterday! Picking it Up Tomorrow! will be my FIRST Dragoon. Just picked up my First 1860 from same sales counter! the 60 was tough on the take down and reassemble. I realized it was a "Perfect Fit" so I gave the cylinder axle just a few few file licks on a rotary bias not affecting fit or strength of axle into frame or wedge cut through either to break the cylinder's perfect vacuumed seal. then I noticed it was better, not great, so I gave both alignment pins a few strategic licks with a smooth sided file to break their oiled vacuumed seal, vented now she comes apart easy, locks up Perfectly oiled or not. Had to smith whole rotation paw, bolt, and trigger, nothing was locking up and just no good or safe new out of the box. Running like a clock and smooth as butter now! Can't wait to bust some caps! But I noticed on dry fire the hammer is off the nipples just a bit? to Much? I may? need to take some material off inside of hammer to increase home to nipple and cap travel. Any tips on INCREASING main spring? I want to SMACK the snot out of my DIY caps! yes i can re temper if needed "I Think?" using my lead pot. Keep Your Smoke Poles SMOKING!
you can add a thin metal shim between the mainspring body and frame for a 1/2 inch of so from the screw hole going up towars hammer it will add a little more power
@@BLACKIETHOMAS if I understand? just load the spring up a bit with a shim basically shortening the curve diameter while increasing the speed the curve changes direction? Sounds easy enough? why didn't "I think" of that? elegantly simple! THANK YOU SIR!!
Hey Blackie on this subject, I have an 1862 Uberti pocket police that I'm having an issue with the loading lever latch. The problem is that the dovetail and the latch are cut square, not beveled. It falls straight down. I've used JB Weld and even took it to a gunsmith to weld a small bead on it. It still falls out. Have you run into this issue before, or would you have any advice? Thank you!
omg , I just use a wide rubber band wrapped around the barrel and loading lever to keep the loading lever from dropping without doing all that loading lever retainer stuff !!!
Both of my Dragoons will drop the latch, but it seems to happen after several cylinders......it's weird. It will stay up for most of a range day , of full 50gr loads and the last few cylinders it will drop nearly every shot As if the latch spring gets "tired" from the recoil
The videos on black powder guns is the reason I started watching your videos.
thanks glad to do them
Easy, quick, simple, and it works. What's not to like? You DA MAN, Blackie!
Great information. Have this problem on several of my revolvers
I always enjoy hearing from your real situational lessons. Thank you.
I'm glad to go back to my 51 Navy after this lesson.......
I'm just getting into black powder pistols, I came across this video and had to subscribe a person can learn a lot if they pay attention
Blackie, Thanks for sharing this, You have taught me so much about the percussion cap and ball . Thank you for sharing your Time and knowledge and wisdom and experience. You Are The Master Woodsman and Bushcrafter. Thanks Again. Tim L.
My pleasure!
Simple and effective fix for the Dragoon. Great tip, as always, Blackie.
Thanks again!
Great information
Another great video!! Have you given any thought to putting your tips and tricks into printed form? Or putting your Black Powder Series onto a disk? Keep up the good work!.
Good information but I'll stick to my 1860 Army and my 1858 N.M. Army.
Thanks, Cousin Blackie!
Dang boy, never had a problem with mine even shooting max loads, but this is one for the toolbox if I see somebody having this problem, an yes I have seen this happen to others, now I know. Thx for the vid Blackie
glad to help
Good afternoon from Syracuse NY brother
Great information. I appreciate it.have a good day
As usual, thanks for the easy fix info! J Brus
You bet!
Thanks even tho i don't have black powder gun like to wath those mamy one day i would buy one good videos.
I have twice deepened the notch to get more travel ...just because I did not like the "rattle" ....the load lever wasn't held tightly enough and felt "wiggly"
Yep 95 percent correct. I just one very minor addition to save for later.
Good stuff Blackie
added a small shotgun pellet inside the lever to make the spring press tighter ?
@@BLACKIETHOMAS no! If it was spring tension I just replace it with a stronger spring. I'll try a describe what has help me in the past. Typing now and keeping a thought straight these days isn't simple. So if when I'm done and it's still clear as mud, we will have to figure out another communication angle.
So the latch hook attached to the bottom of barrel is roughly shaped like a 1970s upside down. Making it tapered. Now you've squared off the top of the hook which is good. Here is the point left needing a little attention. The latch itself is the shape of a rectangle needing only the top surface of rectangle to bearing surface with the newly squared contact point on the stationary hook... with me so far??
Now we have to well establish surfaces squared off to make great bearing surface with great care, yet but wait. We are asking a bloated upside down triangle to a constant rectangle on the female end of this wedding of working parts coming short of perfection. ( as in we have still half a bevel trying to fill in squared off receptacle and she ain't likening what we're offering) in conclusion, if the top outside of the hook is ready, and the top inside of the latch is likes the colone you are wearing than only thing left keeping this marriage reaching consummation is the lack of a bevel at the bottom of the non bearing surface of the rectangle . A little relief will go a long way .
Now after all that I'm not ever going be sure I effectively got my point across, and took 20 times longer to type than it would have taken me just to do it.
I acquired two Uberti Dragoons a few years ago and both dropped the loading levers even with light loads. Filing the catch did nothing and I finally figured out what you described about driving out the pin and filing the latch. Works great unless I load pretty heavy and use a heavier heel bullet the will still occasionally drop.
glad you found the fix
Yes that is the exact same thing I did to mine and I do think the adjustment at the end of the ramrod is imperative it just works great you can tell the stiffness in it now and never dropped again
Thank you for the tip.
You bet!
good to KNOW!
I just had an Uberti Dragoon IN MY hand yesterday! Picking it Up Tomorrow! will be my FIRST Dragoon.
Just picked up my First 1860 from same sales counter! the 60 was tough on the take down and reassemble. I realized it was a "Perfect Fit" so I gave the cylinder axle just a few few file licks on a rotary bias not affecting fit or strength of axle into frame or wedge cut through either to break the cylinder's perfect vacuumed seal. then I noticed it was better, not great, so I gave both alignment pins a few strategic licks with a smooth sided file to break their oiled vacuumed seal, vented now she comes apart easy, locks up Perfectly oiled or not. Had to smith whole rotation paw, bolt, and trigger, nothing was locking up and just no good or safe new out of the box. Running like a clock and smooth as butter now! Can't wait to bust some caps! But I noticed on dry fire the hammer is off the nipples just a bit? to Much? I may? need to take some material off inside of hammer to increase home to nipple and cap travel.
Any tips on INCREASING main spring? I want to SMACK the snot out of my DIY caps! yes i can re temper if needed "I Think?" using my lead pot.
Keep Your Smoke Poles SMOKING!
you can add a thin metal shim between the mainspring body and frame for a 1/2 inch of so from the screw hole going up towars hammer it will add a little more power
@@BLACKIETHOMAS if I understand? just load the spring up a bit with a shim basically shortening the curve diameter while increasing the speed the curve changes direction? Sounds easy enough? why didn't "I think" of that? elegantly simple! THANK YOU SIR!!
thank you sir great stuff
Glad you enjoyed it
Hey Blackie on this subject, I have an 1862 Uberti pocket police that I'm having an issue with the loading lever latch. The problem is that the dovetail and the latch are cut square, not beveled. It falls straight down. I've used JB Weld and even took it to a gunsmith to weld a small bead on it. It still falls out. Have you run into this issue before, or would you have any advice? Thank you!
One of my 51 navys had the same problem... And the other i had to red loctite that catch back in the dove tail
i have had to peen a few of those tight i nthe past as they would wobble out of the dove tail
Redneck gun smith! I love it!
I use a propane torch and heat the nail red hot. It takes out the temper and makes the nail easier to peen over.
Thanks 👍
Welcome 👍
I have a old Navy Arms open top revolver. Is this revolver similar to any of the current revolver in terms of parts?
Why don't you write some book about percussion revolvers or bushcraft?
Blackie Thomas in your opinion, which procussion revolver has the best loading lever latch system?
1860 Colt Army…
Did the original Dragoons drop the lever like that, or is it just a reproduction problem?
omg , I just use a wide rubber band wrapped around the barrel and loading lever to keep the loading lever from dropping without doing all that loading lever retainer stuff !!!
Both of my Dragoons will drop the latch, but it seems to happen after several cylinders......it's weird. It will stay up for most of a range day , of full 50gr loads and the last few cylinders it will drop nearly every shot
As if the latch spring gets "tired" from the recoil
My 58 remington loading lever doesn't latch, drops down with every shot
I take the temper out of the nail with a propane torch.
It makes it easier to peen the nail ends…
Now if there was just something you could do about the Walker
I did the same thing to mine, also put a spent large pistol primer at the bottom the the spring inside the lever to make it tighter.