I've made and used scrapers for over forty years, I like how you make those furniture scrapers. I was a boat carpenter all those years ago, and I mostly made what I called boat scrapers. Now, there are large, rough boat scrapers that are made to remove barnacles, mine were similarly one edged but used more like a cabinet scraper. I filled the edge to 45 degrees using a jig, then burnished a larger hook than you can get with a two edged furniture scraper. Like yours, they were mostly used to reduce pics before varnishing or applying a sanding sealer, but were also great for taking a smidgen off for a tight fit. I found that by adjusting pressure and angle I could take very fine cuts to surprisingly deep ones. I made my scrapers from pre WW2 hand saw blades -- not my Disstons though! One benefit for making your own is that you can grind shapes into them to get at curved surfaces. I'm retired for years now, but I still use my boat scrapers for cleaning my end grain cutting boards.
That’s good stuff! A scraper is super versatile, for sure. I even have one that is honed, with polished edges and corners…no hook or burr. With it, I can take very fine shavings off of lacquer. To remove an insect…or a run/drip/sag. Once. 🙄😆
Great stuff my friend. You know your stuff - so many people neglect that the cutting edges need to be finely polished to get a sharp edge. I didn’t know about the filing to get past the factory roundover
I was trained in London rebuilding Pianos . The old guys alway scored the new scraper with the edge of a file to create 2 thinner scrapers , clamped in vice stood back and hit it with a hammer . The thinner scraper is easier to bend and you get 2 for 1 !! We used scrapers on sound boards and when veneering piano cases . Greetings from Australia
Another video filled with great tips. I’ve not been using a bit of oil on my burnisher so I’ll try that along with your other outstanding instructions. Thanks as always for taking the time to make these informative videos.
In the workshop of Bob Higgens-Steele in Boston, a Swiss fellow with technical training once showed me an unusual technique. Came time to burnish over the hook, he curved the blade in his hand. Higgens-Steele himself had such powerful hands that the blade just took a shallow sickle shape without any backtalk, but I had to help it along by pinning it between my hip and the bench and leaning in. Once curved, we burnished the hook over on the hollow side with a kind of radial stroking. Of course, when hand holding you cannot bring as much pressure to bear as if it was chucked in a vise, but when the blade springs back the edge seems to draw out slightly finer. For oil I just use a bit from the side of my nose. Agreed with the fellers that use polished carbide hunks to burnish with, they hardly tear the metal edge at all.
I’ve seen that method of bowing the scraper…by hand, or setting one corner into the top of the workbench. For me, I suppose if something works very well, I forget that there’s options! By that same token, if I’m having mediocre results, I explore for potentially better results. Anyway, thanks for the input!
Gordon Bennet!!! I just run my scraper edge accross a fine grinding wheel. Once one way, once the other. Takes a few seconds ... and the result is one sharp scraper. So many people want to make astonishingly simple things complicated.
Thanks for the input…that method certainly and quickly creates a sharp scraper with a burr! However, it’s simply not the same as a burr or hook created by “moving” or forming the metal with a burnisher. A burr that is formed at a grinder is large, ragged, may be uneven across its length and weak (large and too much leverage) With a honed edge that is further refined & smooth, and a finely formed burr results in buttery smooth shavings without scratches on the scraped surface. There are many ways to do things and whatever works for you is a good way to do it! 👍🏼 Much thanks.
@@ramonartful Who wants a scraper with a burr ?? I assumed anyone reading my comment would automatically know to remove the burr. Just rub the burr off on a pc of wood, or flat the sides of the scraper on a stone. Perfect result. Time taken from start of grindwheel to finish on stone, 2 mins.
Interesting technique and tips!!! I use my Jorgensen clamps to hold my scrapers . I even teach my bow making students how to sharpen scrapers before they make their bows. God bless you !! Keep teaching it suits you 🙂
I like how you burnish the first step at 90 degrees, being as that's good tool steel, you're actually "work hardening" the edge as you so aptly put it, smash it back into itself. It compresses the steel making it denser than it would be otherwise. Awesome stuff. Being a hobbyist knife maker that caught my attention.
Thanks for the feedback! It also makes sense to me when I draw out the steel…and I angle the burnisher in favor of this motion. At least for the first pass or two. Anyway, little details that make a big difference! Thanks
Another good video. Confirmed pretty much the way I do things except I use a jig (containing a magnet) for part of the process. Thanks for the video. Paul
Excellent video Ramon! I've been using card scrapers for about 20 years. Don't know how I ever got along without them. I sharpen mine much the same way you do including using the block with the bandsaw kerf in it. Happy New Year to you and your's!!
I think one thing that get overlooked (I searched many top YT vids) is to make sure the scraper is completely flat on both sides. When honing, this will immediately become apparent as it’s laid on a stone & moved back & forth. On both sides. Look closely at the long edges. When scrapers are “stamped” out of sheets of spring steel…that process can roll the edges slightly. They need to be dead flat to cut or work properly. Anyway, have fun! Reach out if you have questions. Thanks
I sharpen that way already, probably got it from you to begin with at some point? But I still picked up a few more tips of course. Card scrapers are one of the few bargains in woodworking. Thanks for the video.
@@ramonartful, Ramon, did you make your solid surface holder? Corian material? BTW, I sent a message via your website but it may have went into your SPAM folder based on my user name, 😉.
@@Dominatoruke Hello...I did make it. Yes, solid surface. Here's the YT vid. ua-cam.com/video/B3_GTBsjFe0/v-deo.html And wierd, but I couldn't find that email. thanks
Well, back to square one for me.... Most of the time for a burnished burr, I have them on some of my wood lathe tools. We are using M42 high speed steel, or V10, which is considerably harder than the spring steel you are using. I use a 3/16 diameter carbide rod to turn the burr on them. The standard card scraper burnishing tools won't work very well, but some times I can turn one with a triangle burnisher. The one from Stu Mack, in a video I saw on it, the guy said you can't burnish a burr on it. Don't know specifically what type of metal it is, but bet I can do it with a carbide rod. The burnishing tool has to be harder than the metal you are trying to turn the burr on. Nice video, thanks!
Interesting info about your tools! And the Stew Mac scraper is a bit different with the way it cuts. I suppose one could create a burr on it but the hollow grind of the edge works well. I actually did a sharpening video on that. ua-cam.com/video/dPtVdculbQY/v-deo.html Anyway, thanks for the input!
I think a lot of folks find it hard to believe that a thing as simple as a sheet of metal could be jiggered into a priceless and indispensable tool. Those sweet shavings you got indicate otherwise!
Excellent tutorial; great presentation! I like how well-organized you've made this tutorial, and I commend you for the extra effort you put in post-production to make it more clear and to enhance the continuity. Kudos, sir! Sorry to get off on a tangent with the creation stuff; I really want to comment on your concern about doing "Yet Another Card Scraper Video" (and some other comments). Yes, you did add some steps that none of the vids I've seen cover, and your assessment of the value of your 'tricks' seems spot-on. Nevertheless, even if you had nothing 'additional', I believe your presentation would reach or resonate with folks who might have seen a vid on sharpening and just haven't been able to come up to speed, so to speak. Thank you for the presentation, and a huge thanks for the many hours you invested to create this vid. (new subscriber, hased on this single video.)
That’s a good idea. In general, I use the thinner ones for more delicate work. Maybe I noticed a scratch on a veneered panel that’s already scraped/sanded. Of course, the thinner ones bend easier allowing a more focused placement. Thanks
I debated about posting…I know there are a lot of videos out there. So, I checked a few of em out. No one mentioned the part about grinding past a rolled (stamped from the factory) edge. Nor did anyone mention anything about putting an angle on the burnisher as you first start to draw out the steel. It makes a difference. Anyway, thanks a ton.
@@ramonartful I mean, I work as a cabinetmaker apprentice, and I’ve been taught by several cabinet makers throughout my apprenticeship (2 and a half years), so I’ve heard a bunch of tips already, including the stuff I’ve picked up online. But I still learned something from the video! So it’s greatly appreciated even though it’s a tropic covered by a lot of youtubers already. I’m definitely gonna go pick up a shapton ceramic glass stone asap, and might also check out the thick cabinet scraper you showed. Thanks a lot Ramon and happy hollidays!
Thanks! Here’s a UA-cam video on it. I love that thing. I still need to add stops for the few angles I use. But it works well and completely waterproof. Shaper Origin - Sharpening Holder ua-cam.com/video/B3_GTBsjFe0/v-deo.html
The Crown tools card scraper and burnisher seem to be a good value, they worked for me right out of the package but I probably don't know how a proper card scraper edge should cut.
Well, it’s interesting to note…that a scraper (or even a piece of metal banding) can have an edge that has dead square edges…will still cut and make shavings. But a properly shaped burr or hook on a scraper is a pleasure to use! Thanks
I bought a couple of scrapers many years ago. Could never renew the edge despite watching videos on UA-cam. so I just gave up. Might give this a try. There are a number of things you've included that other videos did not include.
Good video. One of my fav tools. Where old saw blades go for their second life. One thing though, when removing planer or other induced ridges I would scrape as you are doing with the mapple, but I would hold the scraper on an angle initially. It stops the scraper riding the ridges and scraping out the hollows as it will only scrape the top of the ridges. Less scraping.
Good video. I think a lot of people don't use the Card Scrapper simply because they either don't understand what the tool can do or they thought the process to sharpen one was to difficult. You put both those misconceptions to rest.
I totally agree! Since I’m on Instagram as well, I read those comments…”I went through all those steps but I’m still not getting the scraper to cut!” I think one of the main reasons is the scrapers that are stamped, still have rolled edges…and they simply can’t cut effectively like that. Anyway, thanks a ton for the good words and feedback!
I think I need to get back into using my scraper again. I have a Bahco one just like you have with the white plastic sleeve. I've had it for 8 years and have used it a bit, but never made a habit out of it. It had been so long since I learned how to sharpen them that I literally forgot the whole process. The only thing I've been doing when I had to use one was run it across a file that step alone gives you a edge that will cut, though it's a rough cut. I never used it for finishing or fine work, more for cleaning off a surface or flattening a seam. I've heard of guys using them for finishing, and I guess if they are as sharp as you get them, such would be possible. Do you ever use them for the final surfacing, or do you still always sand?
Yeah…Bahco is a fantastic brand of scraper. I use scrapers a lot. Usually for an area that is finicky, tricky grain that wants to tear out, even with a sharp hand plane. But I don’t typically use a scraper as my final finish. Mostly because furniture pieces can generally have multiple surfaces that can’t all be scraped. But usually, if not always, they can all be sanded. Thanks for the input!
I had a shop teacher that used to make card scrapers from old handsaw blades. Ive never tried myself but I do have an old badly bent saw blade. What your throught on that.
Sure…I think so. Any steel that is hard enough should work. I mention in the video that I’ve even used metal banding…the kind that wraps sheet goods for transport, for instance. Cut to shape, grind and hone, burnish a hook and enjoy! 😬 thanks
Well, I’ve not used a plane with that configuration, but I would assume that angle…with a very light cut would probably cut slightly better. I do think the scraper is (in general) easier to achieve tear-free surfaces with swirly, weird grained woods. Thanks!
The plane will leave a glassier surface, as long as the grain is sweet enough and doesn't tear up. With the scraper you don't risk the fine tearing, but the surface it leaves is less impressive than the planed.
"Alu-minium" and "needs flattened"... I was betting on Ohio, as a college roommate from Columbus is the only person I've heard say "needs ___ed" before, and you lack a British accent :) Googled you and learned I was wrong, oh well! Great video! I've really found my results hit or miss and very frustrating. I don't have a legit burnisher and usually use a starett punch or drill bit. I've also not taken these to my stones or used oil. Your burnishing technique was also new to me. Lots to try soon, as when it does work it's such an awesome tool and really beats sanding for material removal. Thanks for the tips! I know this is a hard question to answer quantitatively, but how long do you expect an edge to last? Maybe to put it in context, how many passes could you have done on that piece of cherry before you needed to reburnish or start over?
As an apprentice to Dan Brummit in Manchester, Mass, it was my job to scrape down plank table tops for the custom ''lifestyles'' furniture orders he had. His planer was only a fine little 12'' Parks, and so the glued up slabs tended to need more stock removal than something that comes from a wide belt sander. Oak and Ash kitchen tables, mostly. True, we were using a two handled cabinet scraper with a bigger hook than a card, but I could usually get one top and half the underside done before I needed to reburnish.
Ha ha…that’s funny! And thank you tons. I think a legit burnisher is definitely worth purchasing. I don’t care for the triangular type but the oval or round are amazing. Good question on longevity of the scraper. I could have scraped the Cherry quite a long time before it got dull. As a matter of fact, I left out some key points in the video. An edge on a piece of hard steel (many times I’ve used steel banding) that is shaped, honed with smooth edges and crisp corners will cut very fine, even without a burr. I have done this many times whenst scraping a lacquered finish for instance. The other thing I left out is that if I’m scraping a lot…skip the “business card magnet” and put on a pair of leather gloves! The heat generated will no longer matter! Also, a large hook will simply have too much leverage and NOT last as long as a finely creates burr or hook. So yeah, tricky to answer but when properly sharpened they’ll last a good long while. Even more so when considering that you have four cutting areas. Thanks a ton!
True! I’ve made a lot of em with special profiles out of steel banding. But the hardness/durability just isn’t the same. I suppose it’s not a big deal since they’re quite easy to maintain , yeah? Thanks a ton 👊🏼
Yes, exactly. Card scrapers use medium to high carbon content but it seems to be slightly different from scraper brand to brand. Too hard…hard to sharpen. To soft or too low, won’t retain a sharp cutting edge. Thanks
@@ramonartful Thank you! I appreciate it. I enjoyed your video. You may have already seen it, but there is a fella by the name of Danial Chaffin, he has a few older videos, he has a couple of jigs that work really well for sharpening scrapers. Not trying to take away from yours just thought you might like his also. Thanks again , I really like your style of work. God Bless.
Buying WD-40 in a can spray can is the most expensive way to buy it get a gallon and put it into a pump bottle or a drip bottle all part of the overall cost structure of a shop I would say
Nah man…it’s a lot of work when I make a video about sharpening a card scraper! 😆 This entire process takes about 15 minutes with a brand new scraper. Once that is done, maintenance is a matter of a few minutes. Totally worth it for what it does! Much thanks.
17:30 - "It has no marks from the jointer... plainer, whatever." Not really selling yourself when you can't tell the difference between basic woodworking equipment, but hey... "whatever".
Ha ha…c’mon man. I’m merely stating that these types of mill marks could be from a jointer…planer, whatever. It didn’t matter…the card scraper can easily get em out. 👍🏼😊
Great stuff my friend. You know your stuff - so many people neglect that the cutting edges need to be finely polished to get a sharp edge. I didn’t know about the filing to get past the factory roundover
Thank you. I appreciate you checking it out. Aaaand, I don’t remember. I have the 8k and 16k Shaptons. I probably don’t need both! 😆 But they’re fantastic!
Most important tool in my shop. Great tutorial!
Right!? Simple but amazing. Thanks
I've made and used scrapers for over forty years, I like how you make those furniture scrapers.
I was a boat carpenter all those years ago, and I mostly made what I called boat scrapers. Now, there are large, rough boat scrapers that are made to remove barnacles, mine were similarly one edged but used more like a cabinet scraper. I filled the edge to 45 degrees using a jig, then burnished a larger hook than you can get with a two edged furniture scraper. Like yours, they were mostly used to reduce pics before varnishing or applying a sanding sealer, but were also great for taking a smidgen off for a tight fit. I found that by adjusting pressure and angle I could take very fine cuts to surprisingly deep ones.
I made my scrapers from pre WW2 hand saw blades -- not my Disstons though! One benefit for making your own is that you can grind shapes into them to get at curved surfaces. I'm retired for years now, but I still use my boat scrapers for cleaning my end grain cutting boards.
That’s good stuff! A scraper is super versatile, for sure. I even have one that is honed, with polished edges and corners…no hook or burr. With it, I can take very fine shavings off of lacquer. To remove an insect…or a run/drip/sag. Once. 🙄😆
Great stuff my friend. You know your stuff - so many people neglect that the cutting edges need to be finely polished to get a sharp edge. I didn’t know about the filing to get past the factory roundover
I was trained in London rebuilding Pianos . The old guys alway scored the new scraper with the edge of a file to create 2 thinner scrapers , clamped in vice stood back and hit it with a hammer . The thinner scraper is easier to bend and you get 2 for 1 !! We used scrapers on sound boards and when veneering piano cases . Greetings from Australia
You have a good, solid background! I like that idea of a narrow scraper! Thanks
Technique of using a push block alone made this worth the watch. Thanks!
That’s good to hear.. thanks 🙏🏼
Nice watching someone who knows what they are doing. Thanks
I’ve been accused of worse! 😆 Much thanks.
Another video filled with great tips. I’ve not been using a bit of oil on my burnisher so I’ll try that along with your other outstanding instructions. Thanks as always for taking the time to make these informative videos.
Thanks for checking it out, David!
very nice video.....I'm inspired to go work on my scrapers! It would be interesting to see you sharpen a gooseneck scraper
Thanks a lot! I don’t use gooseneck scrapers anymore. I find it easier to make specific curves out of scraper blanks. Or old gooseneck scrapers 😆
In the workshop of Bob Higgens-Steele in Boston, a Swiss fellow with technical training once showed me an unusual technique. Came time to burnish over the hook, he curved the blade in his hand. Higgens-Steele himself had such powerful hands that the blade just took a shallow sickle shape without any backtalk, but I had to help it along by pinning it between my hip and the bench and leaning in. Once curved, we burnished the hook over on the hollow side with a kind of radial stroking. Of course, when hand holding you cannot bring as much pressure to bear as if it was chucked in a vise, but when the blade springs back the edge seems to draw out slightly finer. For oil I just use a bit from the side of my nose. Agreed with the fellers that use polished carbide hunks to burnish with, they hardly tear the metal edge at all.
I’ve seen that method of bowing the scraper…by hand, or setting one corner into the top of the workbench. For me, I suppose if something works very well, I forget that there’s options! By that same token, if I’m having mediocre results, I explore for potentially better results. Anyway, thanks for the input!
Gordon Bennet!!! I just run my scraper edge accross a fine grinding wheel. Once one way, once the other. Takes a few seconds ... and the result is one sharp scraper.
So many people want to make astonishingly simple things complicated.
Thanks for the input…that method certainly and quickly creates a sharp scraper with a burr! However, it’s simply not the same as a burr or hook created by “moving” or forming the metal with a burnisher. A burr that is formed at a grinder is large, ragged, may be uneven across its length and weak (large and too much leverage) With a honed edge that is further refined & smooth, and a finely formed burr results in buttery smooth shavings without scratches on the scraped surface. There are many ways to do things and whatever works for you is a good way to do it! 👍🏼 Much thanks.
@@ramonartful Who wants a scraper with a burr ?? I assumed anyone reading my comment would automatically know to remove the burr.
Just rub the burr off on a pc of wood, or flat the sides of the scraper on a stone. Perfect result. Time taken from start of grindwheel to finish on stone, 2 mins.
Interesting technique and tips!!! I use my Jorgensen clamps to hold my scrapers . I even teach my bow making students how to sharpen scrapers before they make their bows.
God bless you !! Keep teaching it suits you 🙂
Thank you! I appreciate the good words!
I like how you burnish the first step at 90 degrees, being as that's good tool steel, you're actually "work hardening" the edge as you so aptly put it, smash it back into itself. It compresses the steel making it denser than it would be otherwise. Awesome stuff. Being a hobbyist knife maker that caught my attention.
Thanks for the feedback! It also makes sense to me when I draw out the steel…and I angle the burnisher in favor of this motion. At least for the first pass or two. Anyway, little details that make a big difference! Thanks
thank you Ramon! So much of useful information here. : )
I’m glad to hear that…Thanks!
Another good video. Confirmed pretty much the way I do things except I use a jig (containing a magnet) for part of the process.
Thanks for the video.
Paul
Thank you tons for checking it out!
Excellent video Ramon! I've been using card scrapers for about 20 years. Don't know how I ever got along without them. I sharpen mine much the same way you do including using the block with the bandsaw kerf in it. Happy New Year to you and your's!!
I really appreciate video views from someone like you who has already been using a scraper for decades. Much thanks.
😊😊👍
Awesome info! Can’t wait to try this out
I think one thing that get overlooked (I searched many top YT vids) is to make sure the scraper is completely flat on both sides. When honing, this will immediately become apparent as it’s laid on a stone & moved back & forth. On both sides. Look closely at the long edges. When scrapers are “stamped” out of sheets of spring steel…that process can roll the edges slightly. They need to be dead flat to cut or work properly. Anyway, have fun! Reach out if you have questions. Thanks
I sharpen that way already, probably got it from you to begin with at some point? But I still picked up a few more tips of course. Card scrapers are one of the few bargains in woodworking. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for checking out the videos always. I appreciate it!
"Another Card Scraper video?" Well, I'm glad I found your video, Ramon. Finally, I was able to get some decent shavings. Thank You! Subscribed!!
That is fantastic to hear! Much thanks.
@@ramonartful, Ramon, did you make your solid surface holder? Corian material? BTW, I sent a message via your website but it may have went into your SPAM folder based on my user name, 😉.
@@Dominatoruke Hello...I did make it. Yes, solid surface. Here's the YT vid. ua-cam.com/video/B3_GTBsjFe0/v-deo.html
And wierd, but I couldn't find that email. thanks
Well, back to square one for me.... Most of the time for a burnished burr, I have them on some of my wood lathe tools. We are using M42 high speed steel, or V10, which is considerably harder than the spring steel you are using. I use a 3/16 diameter carbide rod to turn the burr on them. The standard card scraper burnishing tools won't work very well, but some times I can turn one with a triangle burnisher. The one from Stu Mack, in a video I saw on it, the guy said you can't burnish a burr on it. Don't know specifically what type of metal it is, but bet I can do it with a carbide rod. The burnishing tool has to be harder than the metal you are trying to turn the burr on. Nice video, thanks!
Interesting info about your tools! And the Stew Mac scraper is a bit different with the way it cuts. I suppose one could create a burr on it but the hollow grind of the edge works well. I actually did a sharpening video on that. ua-cam.com/video/dPtVdculbQY/v-deo.html
Anyway, thanks for the input!
Thanks Ramon...great video!
Thank you for watching!
I think a lot of folks find it hard to believe that a thing as simple as a sheet of metal could be jiggered into a priceless and indispensable tool. Those sweet shavings you got indicate otherwise!
Right!? Such a simple but super effective tool.
I've save sooo much money on sandpaper by using scrapers over the decades!
Scrapers are awesome. thanks 🙏🏼
Nice instructional video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for checking it out!
Excellent tutorial; great presentation! I like how well-organized you've made this tutorial, and I commend you for the extra effort you put in post-production to make it more clear and to enhance the continuity. Kudos, sir!
Sorry to get off on a tangent with the creation stuff; I really want to comment on your concern about doing "Yet Another Card Scraper Video" (and some other comments). Yes, you did add some steps that none of the vids I've seen cover, and your assessment of the value of your 'tricks' seems spot-on. Nevertheless, even if you had nothing 'additional', I believe your presentation would reach or resonate with folks who might have seen a vid on sharpening and just haven't been able to come up to speed, so to speak.
Thank you for the presentation, and a huge thanks for the many hours you invested to create this vid. (new subscriber, hased on this single video.)
Man...I really appreciate your feedback! I simply love sharing/showing what works for me. Anyway, thanks a ton...truly!
Best I've seen yet! Thanks!
I appreciate the feedback! Much thanks.
Excellent. Thanks from So. Oregon
Hey Jeff…thanks. I appreciate you checking it out!
Maybe you can do a video on when you use the different styles and thicknesses of scrapers.
That’s a good idea. In general, I use the thinner ones for more delicate work. Maybe I noticed a scratch on a veneered panel that’s already scraped/sanded. Of course, the thinner ones bend easier allowing a more focused placement. Thanks
Ah, the ever mysterious card scraper. Thanks a lot for sharing your 2 cents!
I debated about posting…I know there are a lot of videos out there. So, I checked a few of em out. No one mentioned the part about grinding past a rolled (stamped from the factory) edge. Nor did anyone mention anything about putting an angle on the burnisher as you first start to draw out the steel. It makes a difference. Anyway, thanks a ton.
@@ramonartful I mean, I work as a cabinetmaker apprentice, and I’ve been taught by several cabinet makers throughout my apprenticeship (2 and a half years), so I’ve heard a bunch of tips already, including the stuff I’ve picked up online. But I still learned something from the video! So it’s greatly appreciated even though it’s a tropic covered by a lot of youtubers already. I’m definitely gonna go pick up a shapton ceramic glass stone asap, and might also check out the thick cabinet scraper you showed. Thanks a lot Ramon and happy hollidays!
@@joejr.971 Thanks a ton for that feedback. Happy Holidays to you n yours!
Dude I have got exactly the same protection cover on the scraper I bought for my cross country skis 48 years ago 😄. Still have it 👌🏻😁
Ha…that’s too cool!
Your "Solid Surface" Holder is Great ! can you tell me more about that ?
Thanks! Here’s a UA-cam video on it. I love that thing. I still need to add stops for the few angles I use. But it works well and completely waterproof.
Shaper Origin - Sharpening Holder
ua-cam.com/video/B3_GTBsjFe0/v-deo.html
nice video! thanks for sharing knowledge
Great to hear. Thanks for the feedback!
The Crown tools card scraper and burnisher seem to be a good value, they worked for me right out of the package but I probably don't know how a proper card scraper edge should cut.
Well, it’s interesting to note…that a scraper (or even a piece of metal banding) can have an edge that has dead square edges…will still cut and make shavings. But a properly shaped burr or hook on a scraper is a pleasure to use! Thanks
I bought a couple of scrapers many years ago. Could never renew the edge despite watching videos on UA-cam. so I just gave up. Might give this a try. There are a number of things you've included that other videos did not include.
Hey man…let me know if you have issues. Or if you’re making fluffy shavings…I’d like to hear about it. Thanks
@@ramonartful - Thanks, I will when things warm up. I have no shop and have to work on the carport.
Good video. One of my fav tools. Where old saw blades go for their second life. One thing though, when removing planer or other induced ridges I would scrape as you are doing with the mapple, but I would hold the scraper on an angle initially. It stops the scraper riding the ridges and scraping out the hollows as it will only scrape the top of the ridges. Less scraping.
Thanks! Yeah…I should have mentioned that. These were so slight that it made no difference.
Good video. I think a lot of people don't use the Card Scrapper simply because they either don't understand what the tool can do or they thought the process to sharpen one was to difficult. You put both those misconceptions to rest.
I totally agree! Since I’m on Instagram as well, I read those comments…”I went through all those steps but I’m still not getting the scraper to cut!” I think one of the main reasons is the scrapers that are stamped, still have rolled edges…and they simply can’t cut effectively like that. Anyway, thanks a ton for the good words and feedback!
😊😊😊👍
I think I need to get back into using my scraper again. I have a Bahco one just like you have with the white plastic sleeve. I've had it for 8 years and have used it a bit, but never made a habit out of it. It had been so long since I learned how to sharpen them that I literally forgot the whole process. The only thing I've been doing when I had to use one was run it across a file that step alone gives you a edge that will cut, though it's a rough cut. I never used it for finishing or fine work, more for cleaning off a surface or flattening a seam. I've heard of guys using them for finishing, and I guess if they are as sharp as you get them, such would be possible.
Do you ever use them for the final surfacing, or do you still always sand?
Yeah…Bahco is a fantastic brand of scraper. I use scrapers a lot. Usually for an area that is finicky, tricky grain that wants to tear out, even with a sharp hand plane. But I don’t typically use a scraper as my final finish. Mostly because furniture pieces can generally have multiple surfaces that can’t all be scraped. But usually, if not always, they can all be sanded. Thanks for the input!
THANKS FOR HELP WITH SCRAPER I BOUGHT TWO 6 years ago and gave up with getting edge right and now realized sides are not flat
Yep…that part is left out of ALL videos that I’ve ever seen! Reach out if you have a problem. Or let me know that you’re creating fluffy shavings!
I had a shop teacher that used to make card scrapers from old handsaw blades. Ive never tried myself but I do have an old badly bent saw blade. What your throught on that.
Sure…I think so. Any steel that is hard enough should work. I mention in the video that I’ve even used metal banding…the kind that wraps sheet goods for transport, for instance. Cut to shape, grind and hone, burnish a hook and enjoy! 😬 thanks
Hi Ramon, Do you think a scaper, smoothes wood better that a 50 degree #4 plane?
Well, I’ve not used a plane with that configuration, but I would assume that angle…with a very light cut would probably cut slightly better. I do think the scraper is (in general) easier to achieve tear-free surfaces with swirly, weird grained woods. Thanks!
The plane will leave a glassier surface, as long as the grain is sweet enough and doesn't tear up. With the scraper you don't risk the fine tearing, but the surface it leaves is less impressive than the planed.
Awesome, thanks 👍🏻
Great to hear. Thanks for watching!
"Alu-minium" and "needs flattened"... I was betting on Ohio, as a college roommate from Columbus is the only person I've heard say "needs ___ed" before, and you lack a British accent :) Googled you and learned I was wrong, oh well!
Great video! I've really found my results hit or miss and very frustrating. I don't have a legit burnisher and usually use a starett punch or drill bit. I've also not taken these to my stones or used oil. Your burnishing technique was also new to me. Lots to try soon, as when it does work it's such an awesome tool and really beats sanding for material removal. Thanks for the tips!
I know this is a hard question to answer quantitatively, but how long do you expect an edge to last? Maybe to put it in context, how many passes could you have done on that piece of cherry before you needed to reburnish or start over?
As an apprentice to Dan Brummit in Manchester, Mass, it was my job to scrape down plank table tops for the custom ''lifestyles'' furniture orders he had. His planer was only a fine little 12'' Parks, and so the glued up slabs tended to need more stock removal than something that comes from a wide belt sander. Oak and Ash kitchen tables, mostly. True, we were using a two handled cabinet scraper with a bigger hook than a card, but I could usually get one top and half the underside done before I needed to reburnish.
Ha ha…that’s funny! And thank you tons.
I think a legit burnisher is definitely worth purchasing. I don’t care for the triangular type but the oval or round are amazing.
Good question on longevity of the scraper. I could have scraped the Cherry quite a long time before it got dull. As a matter of fact, I left out some key points in the video. An edge on a piece of hard steel (many times I’ve used steel banding) that is shaped, honed with smooth edges and crisp corners will cut very fine, even without a burr. I have done this many times whenst scraping a lacquered finish for instance. The other thing I left out is that if I’m scraping a lot…skip the “business card magnet” and put on a pair of leather gloves! The heat generated will no longer matter!
Also, a large hook will simply have too much leverage and NOT last as long as a finely creates burr or hook.
So yeah, tricky to answer but when properly sharpened they’ll last a good long while. Even more so when considering that you have four cutting areas. Thanks a ton!
@@leehaelters6182That's a good perspective... Thanks for the input!
"Get a good quality one." ... "You can also make one out of steel banding." 😁
True! I’ve made a lot of em with special profiles out of steel banding. But the hardness/durability just isn’t the same. I suppose it’s not a big deal since they’re quite easy to maintain , yeah? Thanks a ton 👊🏼
When you talk about steel, do you mean the carbon content or is it just trial and error when you know you have a good manufacturer?
Yes, exactly. Card scrapers use medium to high carbon content but it seems to be slightly different from scraper brand to brand. Too hard…hard to sharpen. To soft or too low, won’t retain a sharp cutting edge. Thanks
Hi Ramon. René from Germany here. Which Spiderco you use?
Hello! I like the Delica series. But the older version with the heavier blades…sometimes hard to find. They’re a bit more robust. Much thanks.
Do you have a source for that little square you use? Thanks.
Yes! Thanks for asking…I’m a dork and I never put that in the description! 😆 But I just now added it. Thanks
@@ramonartful Thank you! I appreciate it. I enjoyed your video. You may have already seen it, but there is a fella by the name of Danial Chaffin, he has a few older videos, he has a couple of jigs that work really well for sharpening scrapers. Not trying to take away from yours just thought you might like his also. Thanks again , I really like your style of work. God Bless.
@@MrSawdust85222 I'll check that out! I'm always learning! Thanks
Buying WD-40 in a can spray can is the most expensive way to buy it get a gallon and put it into a pump bottle or a drip bottle all part of the overall cost structure of a shop I would say
Yeah…that’s a good point. I have bought gallon cans of it at my old shop. Thanks
I like the Hoppe's; that's gun oil.
Good eye! Smells good too 😆
Et oui un des plus vieux outils d ébéniste
ancien, simple et efficace !👍🏼😊
Wow, that's a lot of work just to sharpen a card scraper....
Nah man…it’s a lot of work when I make a video about sharpening a card scraper! 😆 This entire process takes about 15 minutes with a brand new scraper. Once that is done, maintenance is a matter of a few minutes. Totally worth it for what it does! Much thanks.
17:30 - "It has no marks from the jointer... plainer, whatever." Not really selling yourself when you can't tell the difference between basic woodworking equipment, but hey... "whatever".
Ha ha…c’mon man. I’m merely stating that these types of mill marks could be from a jointer…planer, whatever. It didn’t matter…the card scraper can easily get em out. 👍🏼😊
@@ramonartful Stay safe Mr. Valdez.
@@brianbassett4379 Mr. Bassett, is it planer or plainer ? You're probably embarrassed about now.
no
Hey…how can I help you? What do you mean..”no”?
Great stuff my friend. You know your stuff - so many people neglect that the cutting edges need to be finely polished to get a sharp edge. I didn’t know about the filing to get past the factory roundover
Was that the 16k Shapton that you went up to?
Thank you. I appreciate you checking it out. Aaaand, I don’t remember. I have the 8k and 16k Shaptons. I probably don’t need both! 😆 But they’re fantastic!