Donations: PayPal - md4239@gmail.com I don't monetize my UA-cam channel, so if you found this helpful, any support via donations would be appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks so much!!! I found that rounding the ends of the saddle is a pain so once I get it close to length I put the saddle vertically in my vice, cut a strip of 220 sandpaper about 3/8" wide (not too wide or it rounds over the corner edges) and 2" longish. Holding the sandpaper over the end of the saddle and close to the sides I pull down on one end, holding tension on the other and let the paper do the work. Makes a beautiful rounded end.
About to make a saddle from bone, ebony, or maple. I was looking for a guide or tutorial, and this was the first result. Honestly, as late as it is, I was really hoping to find a laid back video on the process, but ASMR hadn’t even crossed my mind. Very nice video.
@@guitar_md will do! I tried to make one out of the Maple this evening, but I got too eager and snapped it. Tried the ironwood and took my time, so now I have two blanks out of it. I have to finish shaping it and set the intonation.
4:58 did you cut away a part of the saddle with not a straight angle to get thin strings a bit lower than thin ones? Currectly I'm looking for a good method just to keep my 5-6 strings almost at the same height, but I really need to lower 1-2-3 and maybe a bit 4th strings. So dono, shoult I just cut away the saddle from bottom with correct angle or do the tweaks on the top of the saddle... But its already compensated, so I'm a bit scared to do something wrong :D
I know this is a year old question but ... the answer is Ebay or Amazon.. and the cheap ones work fine .. except mine has a 20 thousands difference from the bottom of the wheels .. no problem. Just leave an extra 20 thousands out of the bottom . These things keep your sanding flat so more contact transfers more vibration to the bridge ,or pickup if you have one . This really help on under saddle pickups . Because they tend to grab the bass strings more easily then the trebles .
Radius gauges. Measure the fingerboard, then use the radius gauge to trace a line onto the saddle. Most acoustics have 12" radius boards, but they can vary
@@guitar_md I've noticed the gauges are symmetrical and the saddles are not (higher toward the low E). My guess is this is to account for the thicker strings. How can I get that shape? Also, I need more vids with just you filing. Such a cool, relaxing sound!
@@rstevenhanson The radius being symmetrical is OK. To make it higher on the bass side and lower on the treble, you change the profile of the bottom of the saddle. The easiest way to do that is with a Nut and Saddle sander tool. Stewmac carries them but I got an aftermarket one on eBay that works great. It allows you to file the bottom perfectly flat, but you can also angle it so it removes more material from the treble side than the bass side. And thanks! I'm wanting to do more videos like this as well without talking. Lots of ideas. It's been a while so I will probably do another nut and saddle video eventually.
@@guitar_md Gonna try something. I'll trace the radius from the gauge on a piece of paper, then take the difference in diameter between the E strings (low E diameter minus high E diameter) and mark that height above the right side of my paper line, then use the gauge to trace a new line. I'll return and report!
I've heard some people can send saddles out and make replicas, which is possible. I wouldn't be completely unwilling to try, but you wouldn't want to be without a playable guitar for a while without having any guarantee of the final result. However, I could make a replica of a saddle. It's always possible the existing saddle is not a perfect fit, but if it works, I'd be able to make a bone replica of it. It may take some time as I have to look online for bone blanks but it could be a fun project.
@@guitar_md so the problem ive got is, the high e string is muted/buzzing from the nut, ive remedied it by placing a small piece of metal where the string sits in the nut however its only temporary. (im 100% sure its the nut). The saddle is cut ok, they are both made from bone, the guitar is a 1983 Martin M-36 150th year
@@MrBradleya16 Have you seen my nut slot filling/filing tutorial? Metal can work fine as a temporary fix but for more permanence, best way would be to get an appropriate gauged nut file (a .013" gauge nut file would work for an acoustic high E string), fill the slot with superglue and baking soda, and re-cut it to the appropriate height so the open string isn't buzzing. It's a simple fix with the right tools, and if you get a nut file, you'll have that for the rest of your life and can use it to fix the same issue on any other guitars. I've done this fix many times. I have heard some techs go so far as to use dental composite to fill and re-cut nuts, which I'm curious about, but haven't tried myself. The baking soda and superglue trick works wonders and many techs have used that for decades with no issues.
awsome video thank you !
legendary content
Thanks so much!!! I found that rounding the ends of the saddle is a pain so once I get it close to length I put the saddle vertically in my vice, cut a strip of 220 sandpaper about 3/8" wide (not too wide or it rounds over the corner edges) and 2" longish. Holding the sandpaper over the end of the saddle and close to the sides I pull down on one end, holding tension on the other and let the paper do the work. Makes a beautiful rounded end.
Thank you!
wow!! amazing sir!!
Thank you so much!
Perfect brother perfect. Good work. And good playing
Thank you so much!
Good touch
Thank you so much!
Pure awesomeness mate I know what I'm making for my guitar
Thank you so much!
About to make a saddle from bone, ebony, or maple.
I was looking for a guide or tutorial, and this was the first result.
Honestly, as late as it is, I was really hoping to find a laid back video on the process, but ASMR hadn’t even crossed my mind.
Very nice video.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate this. Let me know how the saddle comes out!
@@guitar_md will do! I tried to make one out of the Maple this evening, but I got too eager and snapped it.
Tried the ironwood and took my time, so now I have two blanks out of it.
I have to finish shaping it and set the intonation.
I just had to build a new saddle for my Taylor. You’re video helped very much!!! I don’t have the proper tools. I used a blank and a dremel tool.
Thrilled my video helped you, thanks so much for letting me know! Dremel tools are amazing, and so versatile. How did it come out?
Super ❤️
Thank you!
I hate working with bone but the end result is always worth it
4:58
did you cut away a part of the saddle with not a straight angle to get thin strings a bit lower than thin ones?
Currectly I'm looking for a good method just to keep my 5-6 strings almost at the same height, but I really need to lower 1-2-3 and maybe a bit 4th strings. So dono, shoult I just cut away the saddle from bottom with correct angle or do the tweaks on the top of the saddle... But its already compensated, so I'm a bit scared to do something wrong :D
love idol🎉❤
Hello, I would like to ask
What is this device, where can I buy it?
5:04
Guitar Nut and Saddle Sander.
I bought mine on eBay years ago. It seems Philadelphia Luthier Tools has them in stock. Let me know if you find it okay!
I know this is a year old question but ... the answer is Ebay or Amazon.. and the cheap ones work fine .. except mine has a 20 thousands difference from the bottom of the wheels .. no problem. Just leave an extra 20 thousands out of the bottom .
These things keep your sanding flat so more contact transfers more vibration to the bridge ,or pickup if you have one . This really help on under saddle pickups . Because they tend to grab the bass strings more easily then the trebles .
What if I don't have another saddle to use as a template for the radius?
Radius gauges. Measure the fingerboard, then use the radius gauge to trace a line onto the saddle.
Most acoustics have 12" radius boards, but they can vary
@@guitar_md I've noticed the gauges are symmetrical and the saddles are not (higher toward the low E). My guess is this is to account for the thicker strings. How can I get that shape? Also, I need more vids with just you filing. Such a cool, relaxing sound!
@@rstevenhanson The radius being symmetrical is OK. To make it higher on the bass side and lower on the treble, you change the profile of the bottom of the saddle.
The easiest way to do that is with a Nut and Saddle sander tool. Stewmac carries them but I got an aftermarket one on eBay that works great. It allows you to file the bottom perfectly flat, but you can also angle it so it removes more material from the treble side than the bass side.
And thanks! I'm wanting to do more videos like this as well without talking. Lots of ideas. It's been a while so I will probably do another nut and saddle video eventually.
@@guitar_md Gonna try something. I'll trace the radius from the gauge on a piece of paper, then take the difference in diameter between the E strings (low E diameter minus high E diameter) and mark that height above the right side of my paper line, then use the gauge to trace a new line. I'll return and report!
Just bought a Taylor micarta saddle and the treble side is 2 mm lower than the bass. There's a slope for sure.
Record 19
You're wearing a vest.
Believe in Jesus Christ and be saved from hell before it’s eternally too late if you haven’t already. Merry Christmas. Nice work
I suppose to do this accurately you would need my guitar
I've heard some people can send saddles out and make replicas, which is possible.
I wouldn't be completely unwilling to try, but you wouldn't want to be without a playable guitar for a while without having any guarantee of the final result.
However, I could make a replica of a saddle. It's always possible the existing saddle is not a perfect fit, but if it works, I'd be able to make a bone replica of it. It may take some time as I have to look online for bone blanks but it could be a fun project.
@@guitar_md so the problem ive got is, the high e string is muted/buzzing from the nut, ive remedied it by placing a small piece of metal where the string sits in the nut however its only temporary. (im 100% sure its the nut). The saddle is cut ok, they are both made from bone, the guitar is a 1983 Martin M-36 150th year
@@MrBradleya16 Have you seen my nut slot filling/filing tutorial? Metal can work fine as a temporary fix but for more permanence, best way would be to get an appropriate gauged nut file (a .013" gauge nut file would work for an acoustic high E string), fill the slot with superglue and baking soda, and re-cut it to the appropriate height so the open string isn't buzzing.
It's a simple fix with the right tools, and if you get a nut file, you'll have that for the rest of your life and can use it to fix the same issue on any other guitars. I've done this fix many times. I have heard some techs go so far as to use dental composite to fill and re-cut nuts, which I'm curious about, but haven't tried myself. The baking soda and superglue trick works wonders and many techs have used that for decades with no issues.
@@guitar_md yeah ill check that out thanks
@@MrBradleya16 Sure thing. Thanks again for all the support, I really appreciate it!
😅😮😢😂