Reducing a bone nut and saddle for a Yamaha FG836 acoustic guitar. This is one way to do it.
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- Опубліковано 17 січ 2023
- Specification
Traditional Western Body
Solid Spruce Top
Rosewood Back & Sides
Newly Developed Scalloped Bracing
Rich Overtones
Body Shape Traditional Western
Scale Length 650mm (25 9/16”)
Body Length 505mm (19 ⅞")
Total Length 1038mm (40 ⅞")
Body Width 412mm (16 ¼")
Body Depth 100-118mm (3 15/16”- 4 ⅝”)
Nut Width 43mm (1 11/16”)
String Spacing * 11.0mm
Top Material Solid Spruce
Back Material Rosewood
Side Material Rosewood
Neck Material Nato
Fingerboard Material Rosewood
Fingerboard Radius R400mm (23 ⅝")
Bridge Material Rosewood
Nut Material Urea
Saddle Material Urea
Bridge Pins Black ABS with White Dot
Tuners Die-cast Chrome(TM29T)
Body Binding Cream
Soundhole Inlay Abalone w/ Black + White
Pickguard Tortoise Pattern
Body Finish Gloss
Neck Finish Matt
Electronics None
Controls None
Connections None
Strings .012/.016/.025(or.024)/.032/.042/.052(or.053)
Color Natural, Tobacco Brown Sunburst, Autumn Burst
I just bought an FG830 and I noticed the saddle is too loose in the slot too. I like what ya did there to fix this issue. I ordered a bone nut and saddle for it and it’s supposed to be here tomorrow so I’m hoping it’s a little thicker. Otherwise I’ll do what you did. Thank you for sharing your work. 👌
A proper set of nut files is a must for anyone that does their own setups. I bit the bullet and got a set of Japanese nut files made by Hosco. They were cheaper than screwMac and Japanese steel is very good. I think they were about
$130.00 US and it came with 10 files. It’s every size you’ll need. for acoustic or electric. Here is the part number incase anyone wants to get a set- Hosco TL- NF10 made
Hi Austin, superglue is great at making the saddle wider put a small layer on the saddle and let it dry before you put it in the guitar
Love your videos. What tuning app are you using?
thank you... gives me a push to keep doing them.... I use the Proguitar Tuner on my iPhone (Android as well).... I tried several different ones, even an expensive standalone tuners but I find this the best....
where do you find one of those roller clamps? stewmac has one that is a wee expensive
If you type into eBay: Guitar Bridge Grinding Sander Guitar Nut Saddle Sander Precision Instrument Part - you will find one for under £30.... let me know if you find one please?
15:00 You spent 10,500 Yen on a set of blades? What kind of blades? 10,500 Yen = 66.15 UK Pounds = $80.32 USD
I know.... that is a lot for an old boy like me! UO-CHIKYU 2508 Nut Files Hiroshima File 6 pcs Set for Acoustic Guitar / General UOCK00010 1
Love it. Great work again
@@LennonLuthierFinagler Is there a difference is between nuts files for an acoustic guitar and nut files for electric guitars? I think there wouldn't be a difference and a distinction should be concerned with string size/diameter.
@@zzyzxRDFwy15 That is a very good question.... the guitar above took string size 12's.... I have done guitars with 14s and 8s string sizes. Acoustics and Electrics use the same files if the nuts are bone or plastic. For example: (For the ultra fussy guitarist , and I have yet to meet one this fussy) A size 12 string should be seated into the nut to a depth of 50% of the string, in other words half the string thickness. So you, in theory should use a size 12 nut file... but that theory only really applies the thicker bass strings. The bass E string should be half buried in the nut.... the high E string would slip out so I put the string into the full depth of the string. I would be interested in seeing Gary Moore's guitar and the nut depths as he use to be the king of string bending and I bet his strings were not 50% buried but fully buried into the nut.
@@LennonLuthierFinagler I guess the reason why luthiers don't like the strings below the top of the nut is to prevent a source of potential string buzz from the string coming in contact in the nut slot higher up in the V shaped slot.
One other question I wondering is I've seen a lot of videos where the luthier is assessing the neck angle and the need for a neck reset or saddle/bridge lowering for an acoustic guitar. What I don't see a lot of is the luthier determining why the neck angle changed. If the body or a component of the acoustic guitar has changed and caused the neck angle to change shouldn't the first method to try is to restore the correct neck angle if it is possible to put the guitar body/top/neck block back into the original geometric position instead starting at shaving the saddle/bridge or performing a neck reset? Something allowed the neck to pull up and if it's not because of a weak neck joint or from a weak neck to body glue attachment maybe trying to put guitar component that moved back in place where it will return the neck to the correct position should be the first method to consider.
I also wonder if necks that get pulled up over time is so common with acoustic guitars, why aren't more acoustic guitars designed to be able to adjust the neck tilt more easy by such means as using a bolt on/off, tilt adjustment design or by using a tapered wooden shim like is seen in many electric guitars. A tilt adjustment built into a acoustic guitar would save a lot of guitars from becoming wall hangers and save a lot in labor costs.
Big head!
Yes...... I have since moved the camera.... I like to keep my head lice to myself. :-)