Thanks for this video! I love the way you explain things, especially for those new to mountain biking and suspension. I have a XC bike (Supercaliber), so working on the shock balance now. Thanks again!
Love this Suspension series, Im recently got a fully and been trying to wrap my head around what is a good setup and how to get all the benefits from all that suss. Thanks !
I wonder why the RXF36 comes with a 10-15% sag recommendation though? I would usually set it to about 20 - 25% so is there a reason why Ohlins recommends that much less?
This advise is really good stuff. I come from motocross, and although I am not Paul Thede of Race Tech or Or Mr. Ross Meada at Enzo, I know my way around the suspension pretty well. So does this gal. I can tell. :)
My 27.5 bike has 210 rear travel and 200 front travel with a boxxer. If I want to mullet it with a single crown fox 38, is it fine to have 170mm travel front to maintain geometry since a2c of boxxer 27.5 is the same with fox 38 29er 170mm? If so, how much sag should i ran in both? I generally ride fast rocky and flowy stuff.
First time I have seen Ohlins suspension for Mt. Bikes, (back into biking a bit after over 2 decades off). I bet the Swedish stuff is excellent quality, because I know all the Motocross suspension was top notch and innovative stuff over 40 years ago.
i set sag, then kinda test the balance by pogo'ing on the bike to feel how the front/back suspension feels similar. chainstay length, progression of the seat stay/linkage and HTA all play a part.. but if the front and back feel similarly responsive, im good to go. HSC and volume spacers help even out the 2 components. i run 25% sag in forks, 20% on shock (both air) - my DVO has simplified the initial stroke so no matter how much sag or compression i add/subtract, it stays fairly consistent with that initial buttery feel. on my lyriks, im running 25% sag w/ 3 volume spacers to try for the same effect. i dont bottom out, but the fun-meter proves that i'm real close LOL
true. like i said tho i use volume spacers in fork, so i can run more sag in fork without bottoming out. it's plusssshhh. i must tend to ride behind the BB, except on my banshee hardtail since the chainstay is so short, and the STA pretty steep - i find myself forward a bit more. all my stems are about he same length.. @@tomasstraka5244
@@tomasstraka5244 For turning agility, and super slack head tube angles, (which is silly IMO), I can see how less rear sag would turn better. But it also stiffens up the rear bump absorption action, and he may never use all the travel.
i have to have everything super subtle as i only weigh 9 stone and the recommended air pressures are always far too stiff for me, trial and error have got me to a perfect amount of subtleness all without bottoming out
My philosophy for compression dampening is a bit different, since all suspension valves are different. After you get your spring rates correct for your weight, correct sag and the rebound set, I like to se the compression dampeners at full soft, and as i ride and bottom out, start setting them stiffer until the bottoming pretty much stops, and/or the forks start getting more harsh. I like to run more spring to handle the bottoming, 9with more rebound as you said, as it will probably be needed), with light spring preload (coil springs), and as little compression dampening as possible. That way I get good bottoming resistance, and good small bump absorption.
I just bought a new Trek Fuel EX Gen 6, I used the calculator on the Trek website and was surprised at how close it was to perfect for me. I ended up with a couple of pounds extra in the back and a couple less in the front with a couple of extra rebound clicks in the back and no changes in the front.
I like taht u guys provide the same amount of knowledge between both video and short, you should think abgmbout reuisng that content beforehand because it can lead to confusion, just watched a vid about sag earlyer that day, where the first 20 or 30 sec there was no word about compression But otherwise great channel
If it is not set up well now for you, you will probably enjoy the riding more if you get it done. But what surprises me at my age of 60 is,---we were ashamed to be lazy, and would never admit it if we had been. People on any kind of welfare were looked down upon back then too, but now it is thought of a a "right". I don't see a very good societal future. Glad I am old.
@@EarthSurferUSA I guess you overinterpreted my comment abit in regards to being "too lazy to do it". 1) you don't know how old i am based on the fact that it's a youtube comment. 2) a youtube comment about being too lazy to dial in suspension on a bike does not say anything about being lazy in general Due to the work times and other interests besides riding bikes (yes, there are people with other interests - surprise!) i just want to go ride bikes once i find the time. This doesn't mean i don't have my sag set etc. e.g. after it has been serviced. What i mean is I don't want to spend afternoons riding the same trail over and over to dial in rebound and compression settings etc. It's more like on the fly, if it feels too slow or too springy etc. you change a click or two during a ride and then leave it until it feels weird or the next service is due...
@@EarthSurferUSAdude, stop commenting (you’re all over this)… nobody cares what your thirsty ass thinks, what your setup is, how old you are, etc, etc... ashamed to be lazy? You probably have even less shame than self awareness. Shoo…🤡
It's not that complicated. Most of your weight is on the back wheel. Less sag in the back and everything is fine. Doesn't matter if you back wheel loses contact as long as your front wheel can track.
Yeah construcor setup are bullshit, I'm 60 kg and with the constructor setup I was almost bottoming my fork and rear shock by going down a side walk seating on my bike, and the guy who sell the bike to me who work and ride bike for 40 year tell me or was absolutely normal 🤣🤣🤣 I setup it myself and it's infinitely better now
Sag....is just the amount of PRELOAD upon the 'spring' (air or coil) under static rider weight. Finally, a video that actually advocates for a BALANCED suspension! I am stymied at how many channels, mags, coaches, shops, etc. will tell a rider to set sag at 30% in the rear and 15% to 20% in the front! Uh...duh. No. Simply ill-informed for the majority of riders and bikes. 🙄 If sag delta is greater than 5% then it's likely incorrect for the majority of riders.
Good video! But I haven’t had a Pinkbike video in m recommendations for months somehow and now you guys use those stupid clickbait titles? Common you can do better.. This makes me miss the 2008 Pinkbike even more, please stop selling out. The whole industry already did it, please let the last few good bits of Pinkbike stay alive and let me pretend the whole Outside thing hasn’t happened..
Thanks for this video! I love the way you explain things, especially for those new to mountain biking and suspension. I have a XC bike (Supercaliber), so working on the shock balance now. Thanks again!
\That WAS a load of info in less than 9 minutes!!! WONDERFUL clear summary - GREAT script for helping us mortals get the most out of our suspensions!
Always love your videos. You keep on rawkin’!
Love this Suspension series, Im recently got a fully and been trying to wrap my head around what is a good setup and how to get all the benefits from all that suss.
Thanks !
Fantastic episode Christina. I appreciate your time and efforts.
Nice video, Christina. I'm really appreciating this series.
Next dibs on her setting up my bike!👏🏾
I wonder why the RXF36 comes with a 10-15% sag recommendation though? I would usually set it to about 20 - 25% so is there a reason why Ohlins recommends that much less?
This advise is really good stuff. I come from motocross, and although I am not Paul Thede of Race Tech or Or Mr. Ross Meada at Enzo, I know my way around the suspension pretty well. So does this gal. I can tell. :)
Hi, is the access to LSC setting on TTX shock mounted on Orbea Rallon Frame sufficient?
More front travel is a good idea, because the wheel doesn't just move up, but up and back, especially with slack head angles.
My 27.5 bike has 210 rear travel and 200 front travel with a boxxer. If I want to mullet it with a single crown fox 38, is it fine to have 170mm travel front to maintain geometry since a2c of boxxer 27.5 is the same with fox 38 29er 170mm? If so, how much sag should i ran in both? I generally ride fast rocky and flowy stuff.
First time I have seen Ohlins suspension for Mt. Bikes, (back into biking a bit after over 2 decades off). I bet the Swedish stuff is excellent quality, because I know all the Motocross suspension was top notch and innovative stuff over 40 years ago.
well now i just need to remember to open up the suspension again after climbing 🤣
i set sag, then kinda test the balance by pogo'ing on the bike to feel how the front/back suspension feels similar. chainstay length, progression of the seat stay/linkage and HTA all play a part.. but if the front and back feel similarly responsive, im good to go. HSC and volume spacers help even out the 2 components.
i run 25% sag in forks, 20% on shock (both air) - my DVO has simplified the initial stroke so no matter how much sag or compression i add/subtract, it stays fairly consistent with that initial buttery feel. on my lyriks, im running 25% sag w/ 3 volume spacers to try for the same effect. i dont bottom out, but the fun-meter proves that i'm real close LOL
the sag seems to be the other way around as it should..... normally people run less sag in front and more in the rear...
true. like i said tho i use volume spacers in fork, so i can run more sag in fork without bottoming out. it's plusssshhh. i must tend to ride behind the BB, except on my banshee hardtail since the chainstay is so short, and the STA pretty steep - i find myself forward a bit more. all my stems are about he same length..
@@tomasstraka5244
@@tomasstraka5244 For turning agility, and super slack head tube angles, (which is silly IMO), I can see how less rear sag would turn better. But it also stiffens up the rear bump absorption action, and he may never use all the travel.
i have to have everything super subtle as i only weigh 9 stone and the recommended air pressures are always far too stiff for me, trial and error have got me to a perfect amount of subtleness all without bottoming out
My philosophy for compression dampening is a bit different, since all suspension valves are different. After you get your spring rates correct for your weight, correct sag and the rebound set, I like to se the compression dampeners at full soft, and as i ride and bottom out, start setting them stiffer until the bottoming pretty much stops, and/or the forks start getting more harsh. I like to run more spring to handle the bottoming, 9with more rebound as you said, as it will probably be needed), with light spring preload (coil springs), and as little compression dampening as possible. That way I get good bottoming resistance, and good small bump absorption.
yeah so if i blow my rear shock should i blow my fork and how can I do that
I love how you are glass protected against water :)
I just bought a new Trek Fuel EX Gen 6, I used the calculator on the Trek website and was surprised at how close it was to perfect for me. I ended up with a couple of pounds extra in the back and a couple less in the front with a couple of extra rebound clicks in the back and no changes in the front.
What a great videos
I like taht u guys provide the same amount of knowledge between both video and short, you should think abgmbout reuisng that content beforehand because it can lead to confusion, just watched a vid about sag earlyer that day, where the first 20 or 30 sec there was no word about compression
But otherwise great channel
I run no sag in my rear shock on my dh bike for that hardtail feeling.
That is an expensive hard tail.
My main problem with suspension setup is, that i am just too lazy to do it once i get time to go biking...
So true
If it is not set up well now for you, you will probably enjoy the riding more if you get it done. But what surprises me at my age of 60 is,---we were ashamed to be lazy, and would never admit it if we had been. People on any kind of welfare were looked down upon back then too, but now it is thought of a a "right". I don't see a very good societal future. Glad I am old.
@@EarthSurferUSA I guess you overinterpreted my comment abit in regards to being "too lazy to do it".
1) you don't know how old i am based on the fact that it's a youtube comment.
2) a youtube comment about being too lazy to dial in suspension on a bike does not say anything about being lazy in general
Due to the work times and other interests besides riding bikes (yes, there are people with other interests - surprise!) i just want to go ride bikes once i find the time. This doesn't mean i don't have my sag set etc. e.g. after it has been serviced.
What i mean is I don't want to spend afternoons riding the same trail over and over to dial in rebound and compression settings etc. It's more like on the fly, if it feels too slow or too springy etc. you change a click or two during a ride and then leave it until it feels weird or the next service is due...
@@EarthSurferUSAdude, stop commenting (you’re all over this)… nobody cares what your thirsty ass thinks, what your setup is, how old you are, etc, etc... ashamed to be lazy? You probably have even less shame than self awareness. Shoo…🤡
Please stop using clickbait titles like this
Care to expand? I didn’t find what you claim, to be the case.
@@Migh7yb00sh They changed it. It was first titled something like "Most mountainbikers make this mistake"
It's not that complicated. Most of your weight is on the back wheel. Less sag in the back and everything is fine. Doesn't matter if you back wheel loses contact as long as your front wheel can track.
when she poured the water into the funnel.... why did she wear safety goggles?
Adjusting a fork is easy. Adjusting a fork and a rear shock to work together is a time consuming thing.
The camerawork here is distracting.
Yeah construcor setup are bullshit, I'm 60 kg and with the constructor setup I was almost bottoming my fork and rear shock by going down a side walk seating on my bike, and the guy who sell the bike to me who work and ride bike for 40 year tell me or was absolutely normal 🤣🤣🤣 I setup it myself and it's infinitely better now
Sag....is just the amount of PRELOAD upon the 'spring' (air or coil) under static rider weight.
Finally, a video that actually advocates for a BALANCED suspension! I am stymied at how many channels, mags, coaches, shops, etc. will tell a rider to set sag at 30% in the rear and 15% to 20% in the front! Uh...duh.
No. Simply ill-informed for the majority of riders and bikes. 🙄 If sag delta is greater than 5% then it's likely incorrect for the majority of riders.
Good video!
But I haven’t had a Pinkbike video in m recommendations for months somehow and now you guys use those stupid clickbait titles?
Common you can do better..
This makes me miss the 2008 Pinkbike even more, please stop selling out.
The whole industry already did it, please let the last few good bits of Pinkbike stay alive and let me pretend the whole Outside thing hasn’t happened..
I wonder how the suspension sponsor of the video feels about the presenter wearing the clothing of a competitor?