A viewer has rudely pointed out that FI means"Fault Indicator", which is a good assumption. Throughout the manual, the indicator is called the "malfunction light" and the codes are "malfunction codes", so the letters "FI" are never really defined, at least any of the sections I have read. I say "fuel injection" because most people recognize the term which makes it easier to have them understand what I am trying to get across and in most cases it is the fuel injection system causing the issue. I also get people asking me "Why is my fuel injection light on?", so I just stick with that term I suppose that "fault indicator" may make people more inclined to pay attention to it, rather than thinking it is a low fuel or low oil pressure light, which I have also had. I have no issues with people pointing out an error or omission in a video or even a difference of opinion, but, if you have to make your point by adding a personal insult, your comment will be deleted. We are, I assume, adults, and name calling is not how adults discuss topics.
great video, thank you for uploading, I also just today have that f1 light come on on my GSXR1000 k2 (2002) model, can I ask what year is your GSXR? and will that wire job work on my bike? again thanks for the very clear and no bs video mate👌
And I've been riding with the F1 light on for months I had a feeling that there was a way to do that because I have a Dodge Cummins in when I turn the key 3 times he gives me the codes
I have 2008 gsx r i think its the k7 ...red light is on and flashing the fI code. It has aftermarket exhaust. My question is...what problems was that code causing you to have?
The bike idled rough, was rough while cruising and the throttle response was a bit slow. This bike had a Chinese Apropovic knock-off muffler and the exhaust valve was deleted. After balancing the throttle bodies and setting the TPS, it worked great.
So I have exactly the same issue. However there's no error code coming up, the bike tells me there is no fault C00. I have checked the oil pressure switch, oil levels and sure that the oil pump is working. I ran a simple test on the temperature gauge and even checked the engine coolant level, all seems fine. Do you have any ideas on what else it could be?
There are many possibilities. Bad spark plug, plug wires, dirty injectors, partially plugged fuel or air filter, bad fuel, sensor sending readings slightly out of spec, throttle valves out of adjustment, etc. I usually start with the basics (plugs, wires, filters, etc.) and move to the more complicated as things are eliminated. The self-diagnostic system only sets codes when something goes outside of specs, but a vehicle can start acting up when a part or parts are within spec but not working perfectly. Best to get a digital multimeter and a troubleshooting chart to check the output of the various sensors. Sensors send a voltage signal back to the ECU, usually between 0 and 5v and the ECU converts it to a usable reading. For example, the TPS sends a voltage signal that the ECU converts into a percentage of throttle opening and with vacuum readings calculates load and adjusts fuel delivery (and other systems) to match engine requirements. Even with a code, troubleshooting is important as a sensor may be working properly but another issue is causing the code. For example, a vacuum leak may trigger a map sensor or TPS code, so it is important to verify what is causing the code or drivability issue before unnecessarily replacing expensive parts.
I tried to put my 04 1000 in dealer mode. It wouldnt, the fuel pump just runs continuous. I removed the jumper and now it keeps running the pump. This happened after I removed the TPS's to check with a meter. (they were fine) . I was able to read the codes with woolichs software. 11 codes, that won't clear. The bike was fine before i removed the TPS's. Any ideas would be great. Trying to avoid a dealer trip.
@@lelandlewis7207 iap , iat, ect, tps cps, cam sensor, sec throttle valve, twice , 11 in total with 2 unknown, I think it all of them. Someone suggested I lost a power feed or a ground source.
@@ZEE-h-too-bro Sorry for the slow reply, I've been changing heads on my SUV and fighting a migraine. That is a lot of codes. First thing to do is to check the voltage at each sensor. Remove the plug and check the wire for 5V, each should have close to that as the input voltage. Use a digital multimeter. If each has the correct input voltage, check the resistance through the sensor, which varies depending on the sensor. Also, check each terminal on the sensor to ground; there should be no connection or you have a shorted sensor. The cam sensor is different, it requires checking the peak voltage while cranking the engine. Check the voltage across the pins in the sensor while cranking. Do it about 3 times to get the best reading of the peak. My guess is that it isn't a sensor issue since you have so many codes. It almost sounds like the computer isn't reading the sensors or is getting incorrect readings. By doing the voltage checks at the sensor, it tells if the computer is sending out the voltage. If there is voltage going in and coming out of the sensors, then it needs to be checked at the computer to be sure the readings are getting back. Check for any connections being accidentally knocked off while working on it. It is a process of elimination, but better to check everything from the basics up rather than assuming and buying an expensive part you don't need.
If you want to spend money on the adapter and have an OBDII reader. A piece of scrap wire does well if you aren't doing a lot of bikes or just want a quick check.
Thanx a lot for the video. I have exactly the same code C46, but I wish You'd continue the video showing how to delete the code. Tried to switch off the key but the code is still there. Can You help?
If you turned the ignition off and then on again with the "dealer mode" jumper wire in place, the code should have cleared. If the code is still there, then the computer is sensing that the problem still exists. The computer stores codes in memory even after the FI light is turned off, so, another way to be sure is to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds. This will clear any codes stored in the computer memory. If any codes return after this procedure, then you definitely still have an issue.
Has been discussed and explained already. The manual actually calls it the "malfunction" light and nowhere does it say "fault indicator". People know what I mean and many I talk to use the same term. The procedure is proper so what exactly "FI" is called isn't of major importance. if I do another video, I'll be sure to use both terms so all will be happy. If I didn't know the bike, then the work or parts would be wrong.
![How to Fix Engine Misfires With [No Codes]](/img/n.gif)
A viewer has rudely pointed out that FI means"Fault Indicator", which is a good assumption. Throughout the manual, the indicator is called the "malfunction light" and the codes are "malfunction codes", so the letters "FI" are never really defined, at least any of the sections I have read. I say "fuel injection" because most people recognize the term which makes it easier to have them understand what I am trying to get across and in most cases it is the fuel injection system causing the issue. I also get people asking me "Why is my fuel injection light on?", so I just stick with that term I suppose that "fault indicator" may make people more inclined to pay attention to it, rather than thinking it is a low fuel or low oil pressure light, which I have also had.
I have no issues with people pointing out an error or omission in a video or even a difference of opinion, but, if you have to make your point by adding a personal insult, your comment will be deleted. We are, I assume, adults, and name calling is not how adults discuss topics.
Great response.
If the engine will not start. Crank over the engine for at least 4 seconds. This should restore the fault codes.
great video, thank you for uploading, I also just today have that f1 light come on on my GSXR1000 k2 (2002) model, can I ask what year is your GSXR? and will that wire job work on my bike? again thanks for the very clear and no bs video mate👌
It should work on yours.
Great I’ve got an 04 with the fi light on but I have full exhaust with no flapper so I assume I just have the same issue
What if you accidentally jump on he black and white wire with the orange and white wire?
And I've been riding with the F1 light on for months I had a feeling that there was a way to do that because I have a Dodge Cummins in when I turn the key 3 times he gives me the codes
I have 2008 gsx r i think its the k7 ...red light is on and flashing the fI code. It has aftermarket exhaust. My question is...what problems was that code causing you to have?
The bike idled rough, was rough while cruising and the throttle response was a bit slow. This bike had a Chinese Apropovic knock-off muffler and the exhaust valve was deleted. After balancing the throttle bodies and setting the TPS, it worked great.
So I have exactly the same issue. However there's no error code coming up, the bike tells me there is no fault C00. I have checked the oil pressure switch, oil levels and sure that the oil pump is working. I ran a simple test on the temperature gauge and even checked the engine coolant level, all seems fine. Do you have any ideas on what else it could be?
There are many possibilities. Bad spark plug, plug wires, dirty injectors, partially plugged fuel or air filter, bad fuel, sensor sending readings slightly out of spec, throttle valves out of adjustment, etc. I usually start with the basics (plugs, wires, filters, etc.) and move to the more complicated as things are eliminated.
The self-diagnostic system only sets codes when something goes outside of specs, but a vehicle can start acting up when a part or parts are within spec but not working perfectly. Best to get a digital multimeter and a troubleshooting chart to check the output of the various sensors. Sensors send a voltage signal back to the ECU, usually between 0 and 5v and the ECU converts it to a usable reading. For example, the TPS sends a voltage signal that the ECU converts into a percentage of throttle opening and with vacuum readings calculates load and adjusts fuel delivery (and other systems) to match engine requirements.
Even with a code, troubleshooting is important as a sensor may be working properly but another issue is causing the code. For example, a vacuum leak may trigger a map sensor or TPS code, so it is important to verify what is causing the code or drivability issue before unnecessarily replacing expensive parts.
Fan
Thank you!
Thanks for posting.
I tried to put my 04 1000 in dealer mode. It wouldnt, the fuel pump just runs continuous. I removed the jumper and now it keeps running the pump. This happened after I removed the TPS's to check with a meter. (they were fine) . I was able to read the codes with woolichs software. 11 codes, that won't clear. The bike was fine before i removed the TPS's. Any ideas would be great. Trying to avoid a dealer trip.
What are the codes? How are you trying to clear them?
@@lelandlewis7207 iap , iat, ect, tps cps, cam sensor, sec throttle valve, twice , 11 in total with 2 unknown, I think it all of them. Someone suggested I lost a power feed or a ground source.
@@ZEE-h-too-bro Sorry for the slow reply, I've been changing heads on my SUV and fighting a migraine.
That is a lot of codes. First thing to do is to check the voltage at each sensor. Remove the plug and check the wire for 5V, each should have close to that as the input voltage. Use a digital multimeter.
If each has the correct input voltage, check the resistance through the sensor, which varies depending on the sensor. Also, check each terminal on the sensor to ground; there should be no connection or you have a shorted sensor.
The cam sensor is different, it requires checking the peak voltage while cranking the engine. Check the voltage across the pins in the sensor while cranking. Do it about 3 times to get the best reading of the peak.
My guess is that it isn't a sensor issue since you have so many codes. It almost sounds like the computer isn't reading the sensors or is getting incorrect readings. By doing the voltage checks at the sensor, it tells if the computer is sending out the voltage. If there is voltage going in and coming out of the sensors, then it needs to be checked at the computer to be sure the readings are getting back. Check for any connections being accidentally knocked off while working on it. It is a process of elimination, but better to check everything from the basics up rather than assuming and buying an expensive part you don't need.
Or just get tool adapter an use the code reader pluged on that same plug
If you want to spend money on the adapter and have an OBDII reader. A piece of scrap wire does well if you aren't doing a lot of bikes or just want a quick check.
Can this work on 2014 gsxr 1000?
What up Bro, I had the same problem with de F1 code on my 2011 gsxr1000, Let me know how you fix it, thks
Thanx a lot for the video. I have exactly the same code C46, but I wish You'd continue the video showing how to delete the code. Tried to switch off the key but the code is still there. Can You help?
If you turned the ignition off and then on again with the "dealer mode" jumper wire in place, the code should have cleared. If the code is still there, then the computer is sensing that the problem still exists.
The computer stores codes in memory even after the FI light is turned off, so, another way to be sure is to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds. This will clear any codes stored in the computer memory. If any codes return after this procedure, then you definitely still have an issue.
+Leland Lewis (My Projects) Problem solved. Thanx again for the video.
Bro your TPS sensor needs adjustment... also
My black with the white stripe one is cut and soul is the one next to it but it looks like they're running to the f****** hell lights wth
Did clearing the code resolve your issues?
goodjob on the video
How do i clear the code?
It has been a while since I did one, but, as I remember, pulling the jumper wire out with the key on clears the code.
@@lelandlewis7207 thanx bro👍
Did this work to clear the code red light is staying on
Thank you so much
Thanks, Bro!
Fi doesnt stand for fuel injection lol stand for faulty indicator learn ur bike 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Has been discussed and explained already. The manual actually calls it the "malfunction" light and nowhere does it say "fault indicator". People know what I mean and many I talk to use the same term. The procedure is proper so what exactly "FI" is called isn't of major importance.
if I do another video, I'll be sure to use both terms so all will be happy.
If I didn't know the bike, then the work or parts would be wrong.
FI = It's the fault indicator in the Fuel injection system. Go out and get a Suzuki service manual for your bike it explains it in detail.