Відео

Yes. The.bike worked fine afterwards, actually better, since the valve was siezed.

I wouldn't think so. The adjustment only sets the output of the TPS to match the idle position of the butterflies, so the computer gets an accurate reading of the throttle opening. Basically, it only affects how well the bike runs through the rpm range.

Ok am here trying to figure out why my bike won’t start, fuel, spark, no codes, keep on cranking, but not starting

Once you pinch down on the retaining clip on top of the electrical plug, it should just slip out. If it is stuck, I would have to assume either there is a corroded terminal or someone has put something on it, like silicone.

The bike idled rough, was rough while cruising and the throttle response was a bit slow. This bike had a Chinese Apropovic knock-off muffler and the exhaust valve was deleted. After balancing the throttle bodies and setting the TPS, it worked great.

For this I used 14AWG. Length depends on where you tie in to the existing wire, distance to power, and where you mount the horn. In my case I used about 8' in total.

What are the codes? How are you trying to clear them?

@@lelandlewis7207 iap , iat, ect, tps cps, cam sensor, sec throttle valve, twice , 11 in total with 2 unknown, I think it all of them. Someone suggested I lost a power feed or a ground source.

@@ZEE-h-EX Sorry for the slow reply, I've been changing heads on my SUV and fighting a migraine. That is a lot of codes. First thing to do is to check the voltage at each sensor. Remove the plug and check the wire for 5V, each should have close to that as the input voltage. Use a digital multimeter. If each has the correct input voltage, check the resistance through the sensor, which varies depending on the sensor. Also, check each terminal on the sensor to ground; there should be no connection or you have a shorted sensor. The cam sensor is different, it requires checking the peak voltage while cranking the engine. Check the voltage across the pins in the sensor while cranking. Do it about 3 times to get the best reading of the peak. My guess is that it isn't a sensor issue since you have so many codes. It almost sounds like the computer isn't reading the sensors or is getting incorrect readings. By doing the voltage checks at the sensor, it tells if the computer is sending out the voltage. If there is voltage going in and coming out of the sensors, then it needs to be checked at the computer to be sure the readings are getting back. Check for any connections being accidentally knocked off while working on it. It is a process of elimination, but better to check everything from the basics up rather than assuming and buying an expensive part you don't need.

Actually, it isn't wrong. The procedure I showed is what is in the Suzuki service manual except they use a ball balancer and as shown, all butterflies are balanced when the procedure is finished. Yes, the big screw adjusts idle, as I mentioned. If your method works for you, then fine. The only thing I missed in the video is that Suzuki recommends setting and keeping the idle at 1,150 throughout the procedure.

Still stand by my assertion.. in your video you give the distinct impression that the “ idle screw” is for adjusting the number 1 throttle body..nope.. carburetors / throttle bodies all follow the same procedure of ( with few exceptions) of synchronizing where the separate banks( ex. 1&2 ..3&4 are synchronized to them selves first then aligned with the center screw..on rare occasions a throttle body/ carburetor is designated the “ master” to which the remaining bodies/ carbs are synchronized too.. not my method.. it is “ the “ method ..@@lelandlewis7207

@@crprince1 Once again, the procedure I followed is in the service manual. The butterfly set has 3 adjustment screws, which are for #2,3 and 4, so #1 only has the idle screw to open or close the butterfly to adjust it up or down on the gauge. It also moves all 4 for the idle adjustment. As the idle is adjusted during the procedure, or if #1 body is much lower than the others, the idle screw is going to change the setting of #1 body. If there is an adjusting screw I am missing that adjusts #1 or another way to adjust #1, by all means, point it out. Your procedure is based on the fact that adjusting anything to the left affects the bodies to the right. By adjusting #2 first, then match #4 to 3, when you adjust #3, it also adjusts 4 to #1 and 2. This has no different result from adjusting each body individually. Both are doing the exact same thing, matching the air intake of the 4 bodies by adjusting each butterfly. You could also adjust #4 to match #3 first, then adjust #3 to match #2 and finally adjust #2 to match #1, keeping your idle adjusted to 1,150 and all should be adjusted properly including the idle. I have no issues with leaving your procedure in the comments in case others want to use it, but to say the video is wrong simply because it doesn't use your procedure is incorrect.

I'd assume so.

That is the oil warning light. The bike isn't running, so has no oil pressure.

@@lelandlewis7207 thanks…..when it does that, does it lose throttle pressure?? When I give it throttle, it doesn’t go pass 5-6 rpm’s

It moves all 4 butterflies, so for a minor adjustment, it shouldn't be an issue.

I should also add, check the TPS setting if you use this method to be sure it is set for idle.

Holy crap, thanks for replying on a 6 year old video. The TPS was at the bottom with an idle at 1100 rpm. I set that to the middle, then the idle screw only needed to be turned about 1-2 mm to get it to about 1250 where it sounds a lot smoother. It's a 2007 gsx-r1000 that I bought new. I mmediately installed a bmc race air filter, full Ti M4 exhaust (gp style), and power commander 3. It only has 8000 miles on it, but would stall if revved too high in neutral or the clutch in (not near redline though). I thought it was an air/fuel imbalance or voltage issue until people said it could be the TPS. Subbed!

@@4rch3er19 Keep an eye on that BMC filter, have a look at BMC filter failure image search

First, be sure you are moving the correct unit and not the STPS. The TPS moves with the throttle, the STPS moves with the secondary butterflies controlled by the ECM. Then use a multimeter to check the resistance through the TPS as you move it. Unplug the TPS and probe the TPS. In idle position it should be about 0.8 Kohms and about 3.9 wide open. Also check the voltage coming into the TPS, which should be about 5V. With the TPS connected, the output should be between 1.07V and 4.12v as you move from idle to open. If you aren’t getting a variation, then the TPS is bad and if you do then it is probably a wiring or control unit problem.

Yes, it should be set if replaced. Any new part may not have the exact same resistance in the same position as the old. Basically, you are adjusting to compensate for wear and age in the throttle system. Bushings wear, idle screws may be off from years of throttle stops tapping them; even the individual throttle plates can be out of sync with each other for various reasons. Balancing the throttle bodies and adjusting the TPS resets the accuracy of the throttle system from idle through the throttle range.

If you want to spend money on the adapter and have an OBDII reader. A piece of scrap wire does well if you aren't doing a lot of bikes or just want a quick check.

This adjustment sets where idle is so the computer knows the correct angle of the throttle to calculate fuel and timing. If the setting is off, then the engine may run rich or lean and\or the timing may be advanced or retarded for the load on the engine.

The bar should move with the throttle.

ua-cam.com/video/iEimppXHEfo/v-deo.html

My best advice is to do what I would do; a full troubleshoot, starting with the basics and working through to the more complicated. Start with compression, fuel pressure, and check all mechanical possibilities, such as a loose timing chain. Have you balanced the throttle bodies? A bad connection in the wiring harness can be a bitch to find and may only act up while running or driving. Even a bad ground connection can throw things off. Check all sensors for the correct ground, voltage and signal. Check the base ignition timing and timing curve if possible to be sure that is right. You can probably find a troubleshooting guide online that will help work through it. Be very careful, even a split-second misconnected test lead can blow a computer and don't use a test light around electronics. Troubleshooting electronics manually can be a bitch; it may be worth having the dealer scan and troubleshoot, but it can be expensive.

I have only ever set the bottom one. Set it with the bike running. I added that as a text at the bottom, but do the adjustment with the bike off so people can hear me speaking.

It will be aggravating. You'll have to move the gauges between pairs of throttle bodies. Check the left pair first since the leftmost carb is usually your base reading. Note the reading and adjust the second throttle body to match. Move the gauges to the right pair and adjust them to match the first pair. Move the gauges back to the left pair and verify the reading. Do this until all readings match, then adjust the idle if necessary.

@@lelandlewis7207 thank you so much this has been an on going thing but basically I bought a sec. Hand lion who is in bad shape all around but your videos are very help fulll thxs 4 your reply

My the same 😢

Same took it out today and as I was riding my gsxr it bogged down and would not increase speed but if I let off a little bit, it went up by one or two mph

It should work on yours.

There are many possibilities. Bad spark plug, plug wires, dirty injectors, partially plugged fuel or air filter, bad fuel, sensor sending readings slightly out of spec, throttle valves out of adjustment, etc. I usually start with the basics (plugs, wires, filters, etc.) and move to the more complicated as things are eliminated. The self-diagnostic system only sets codes when something goes outside of specs, but a vehicle can start acting up when a part or parts are within spec but not working perfectly. Best to get a digital multimeter and a troubleshooting chart to check the output of the various sensors. Sensors send a voltage signal back to the ECU, usually between 0 and 5v and the ECU converts it to a usable reading. For example, the TPS sends a voltage signal that the ECU converts into a percentage of throttle opening and with vacuum readings calculates load and adjusts fuel delivery (and other systems) to match engine requirements. Even with a code, troubleshooting is important as a sensor may be working properly but another issue is causing the code. For example, a vacuum leak may trigger a map sensor or TPS code, so it is important to verify what is causing the code or drivability issue before unnecessarily replacing expensive parts.

Fan

There are air-flow meters that go on the carb inlet, such as the Uni-syn tool. They are slower, since you have to measure each carb individually, but they work on any multi-carb setup. I have one from when I worked on dual-carb VW vans.