Fixing a hole in an aluminium boat without welding
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- Опубліковано 17 лип 2015
- In this video I repair a couple of holes in the transom of an aluminium boat using Sikaflex, an aluminium patch and some rivets. This technique is great if you don't have the option to TIG weld a plate onto the boat.
There are ways of making it even more water tight than shown here: you can put a patch on both sides of the hole and you can coat one or both sides in an epoxy paint.
Be sure to give the Sikaflex plenty of time to dry before either painting or putting the boat back in the water!
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Thanks for video instructions! My twin boys (eight years old) and I are installing an outboard and reconfiguring the mid and aft portions of our Alumicraft bass boat. Your instruction have been helpful with our project.
Don Braboy Hi Don, glad they have been helpful. Always great to here of families getting together and enjoying boating. :)
I used you same technique, and it worked perfectly! Thank you. By the way, I covered the entire lower portion of the transom so I had a strong anchor point for my sonar, temperature gauge, speed sensor, and power poles. Instead of rivets, I used stainless bolts. Works like a charm!
+Bill Sutherland You're welcome, Bill. I've had the patches in old tinnies and they've held for many many years without leaking The only thing I would say with stainless steel is that it can react with Aluminium and eat it away a bit. There is a product called Duralac that is designed to prevent this exact form of corrosion and should be put on the bolts. All the best, Stu.
Great Video and so thank you. Wow! 4.8mm riveting by hand, that's brave! I had to buy a pneumatic one. Marine grade Sitka Flex I constantly keep in my kit. Well done
Thanks mate. Marine Sikaflex is amazing stuff. I can't believe how well it seals for years and years.
Your workshop has come so far since this video!
For sure, I think this video wasn't long after we moved in.
Absolutely the best for aluminum boats
thank you for your time and care sir
You're welcome. :) Co-incidentally, I had this boat in the workshop last week after about three years of being in the water and the patch still looked perfect.
Nice Job!!! Thank you for sharing this!!!!
+Virginia Wolf You're welcome. :)
TY Sir!!!!! Well explained and job well done....
You're welcome. :)
Nice one on the boat vids mate, although I like the sound of birds and stuff, that alarm chirping sets my nerves on edge!
I had a 5 inch split in side of my 1.7mm thick alloy boat . I preped both sides with wire wool . Then epoxy glued a patch each side made out of a coke bottle .. I used the cheapest pound world glue and one year on its still doing the job very well . No sign of glue coming unstuck .
Thanks for the kind wishes. I really appreciate that.
Once you try the solid rivets, you will quickly get addicted. They are crazy-strong, cheap, and kind of fun to install. And did I mention crazy strong?
You buy the anvil head to put in an air chisel and a metal block that you hold in your hand. Both have a dimple to fit the rivet head. Cost is about $30 US. Push the rivet through, hold the block behind it, and BRRRRTTT! Factory-style rivet DONE. Also, you can "re-buck" original rivets in your boat if they start to seep water.
A must-have if you own a metal boat.
Again, I really have enjoyed your videos! Can't wait to see how the Evinrude turns out. Keep up the good work.
There really is something satisfying about quality power driven rivets. Always feel very solid!
Thanks for this. I used a rivet to repair s pin hole leak in my tinny. Any idea how long those rivets last in the salt water? It's my understanding the mandrel inside the rivet reacts with the aluminium causing some corrosion to begin.
I really have enjoyed watching your videos while laid up after minor surgery. One small suggestion when pop riveting:
Always fill the hole in the rivet where the expansion pin was with sealant. "Crevice corrosion" likes to start in there, especially in salt water, and will eventually eat the rivet. And sometimes the stub of the pin falls out later.
But again, thank you very much for taking the time to help others!
Hey mate, good advice about the sealant, but in hindsight I really should have made the effort to find some closed rivets so the mandrel doesn't need to seal at all. Next time! Hope you are recovering well. :)
good morning Tim again can you tell me where to and how to replace a pickup unit on a proline cuddy cabin boat? thank you
Literally sat around my house with the video paused for 30 minutes trying to figure out which fire alarm was going off. Every time I went back to the video it would start going off again.
Then I realized I’m a dumbass
I could have told you that in half the time....
I watched this from the ladder....
Have you tried the new low temp aluminum brazing rod to fix small hole in boats and seal seams. It still requires heat, a propane torch gets well hot enough. I have seen several scenarios on you tube that has hole repaired and T type jpints made. It looks strong but I am not versed on the corrosion aspects of it.
I love your videos u have talked me so much thank you brother
Taught
I was watching this video and you have a smoke detector that is low on batteries. We just went through a 3 day ordeal locating our own low battery detector. I was watching the video and hearing the beep and thought it was coming from my house. Thought I was going crazy looking for it, every time I stopped looking and played the video I would hear it again and think i just missed finding it in my own house hahaha.
Hey Chad. You must have a good sound system at home! That smoke detector is gone now. Every time we did any welding it would go off so we made some tuning adjustments using a piece of 4x2. ;)
LEGEND
Finding your videos great info and learning lots - Thank you! I am going to attempt to remove my outboard from the back of my transom soon but haven't found many videos showing how to do it properly.. Have you made a video that shows how to do this? Thanks again.
+000Troy000 L Hi Troy, glad the videos have been helping. No, I haven't done that one yet, but it is a good idea. I presume yours is a larger outboard that is bolted through?
yes - In fact I will have to remove two outboards, both bolted through.
I am replacing my old Mecury fletcher Arrowflash (is still a great motor) 60 HP 2 stroke with a new Yamaha 70 HP 2 Stroke. Trying to do as much as I can myself :)
Hey Dangar - got the steering cable off after lots of effort - thing was stuck solid. I did have to destroy the cable arm but it had seen better days.
Thank you for your help - much appreciated.
I have pretty much gutted everything old (Gauges, throttle, engine, steering cables etc) on my boat.. Next is removing a (near new) Yamaha 70 HP 2 stroke Gauges, steering, throttle etc from another the other boat I bought. That should be equally fun, but should come off a bit easier than the older bits.
Love your channel - keep up the great work.
Should mention the old Mecury outboard 60 HP has been an outstanding motor and I will sell it along with the metal throttle unit (steering cable now dead) What price would you put on it?
Glad to hear you are making progress with your boats! Good question about the price.What year was it again? I'd be inclined to search on eBay and see what other similar motors are going for. Outboards are funny things. They don't seem to have a set value once second hand as they are often sold as packages with the hull.
I really enjoy your video's. What is your opinion on products like muggy weld? Ive watched videos but would like a Marine professional's opinion / experience
This is great for fixing a hole in a flat surface, but what do you do for pinholes in the keel or a crack in hull keelson?
Well done, it looks like it will hold.
Question for you, do you think that angle grinder pad would remove paint too? I have never used one but it looks like it would be good for paint prep without harming the existing rivet heads already in the boat.
Hi Travis. People seem a bit skeptical about this repair methods but I've always found it to work very well. I've repaired boats this way that have lives in the water 365 days a year for almost a decade without leaking at all. Those pads are very good for removing paint, and as you say, they don't take off too much metal in the process.
Years ago in my youth I bought a low mileage Chevy Beretta that was seriously rear ended, but frame was not bent. I bought another Beretta that was wrecked in the front. I cut half of the rear panel all the way to near halfway of the trunk off with a skill saw using a metal blade. I then measured and cut the good rear panel and trunk section out of the front wrecked car that matched the wrecked section. Then I cut a 5 or 6 inch strip of metal from the front wrecked car along the line I had cut so that I could rivet that section underneath, with the same contour so three or so inches would extended which I epoxied and riveted the whole panel and trunk piece back in place as I had also cut a strip from the trunk to do the same. I countersunk the heads and body filled and painted and it look good as new with a rivet about every inch or two held solid with epoxy. Then I was ashamed to try to sell it to a stranger knowing it was pieced together, so I sold it to a friend that knew the situation. He turned 50,000 miles into 250,000 on the car without any problem with the body never failing. Then a few years back we had a Hurricane here in Louisiana that blew a third of a man's house trailer roof off. I did the same rivet repair on the trailer by cutting 12 inch strips of thin metal to lap the roof with silicone to adhere it with rivets about every two inches. I used vice grip clamps to grasp the old top on each end with rope and had the neighbor at the bottom and a friend on top. We pulled the old top back onto the roof and riveted it back in place and I went around the edges having replaced some of the wood and with silicone tacked the edges down with large roof tacks. Then followed with a heavy coat of cool seal. The people are still living in it today without problem. That was more than 10 years ago after Hurricane Katrina. So rivets are good for a lot of stuff as I have been using them for years rigging and fixing.
Great to hear the success you've had Zed, I'm certainly a big fan of rivets. I've had patches like this below the waterline on boats that live in the water for ten years straight and they are still floating nicely. I probably should have made the effort to find some closed rivets for boat use, but modern Polyurethane sealants like Sikaflex and incredible too. The combination is unstoppable and only needs simple tools everyone can use.
How did you line up the rivet holes? Thx. Great video
What do you suggest to cover the rivets on the hull of a tinny, mine has quite a few leaks, about 10, that need repairing, It also has leaks on the keel seam, it has been rewelded over time, but still leaks. I have been told to use a flexible sealant rather than a solid sealant. Great videos for handymen, who enjoy a beer while they tinker. I am about to install a bilge pump in my 5.4 Savage, your video about that project makes it look an easy enough task.
+Greg Dwiar It can definitely get tricky as boat gets older and gets a lot of leaks like that. Sikaflex Marine is an excellent flexible sealant and I would highly recommend it for jobs like this. If rivets are particularly bad I would be inclined to drill them out and put larger rivets in their place that have been dipped in Sikaflex. There are also a large variety of paintable epoxies out there that can help quite a bit with leaks on aluminium, just be sure to really clean the aluminium and use an etch primer before painting as it is likely to start peeling off otherwise. It is also possible to use epoxy to apply fibreglass patches to aluminium boats, particularly to those parts of the boat that are an odd shape and won't easily take an aluminium patch link in this video.
Thx!
What other bolt do you use with aluminum besides stainless. In this I think you are wrong, but it’s wise to use anti seize.
The electrolysis is likely caused by the copper to aluminum dissimilar metal corrosion.
Even the aluminum blind rivets usually have a steal core...that corrodes and ruins the rivets.
How did you line up the trivet holes?
wrong kind of rivets ! You want closed rivets, with washers on the back, with sealant on the rivets when inserted. then seal the hole in the rivet head also with sealant or epoxy. when doing this..pay attention to the structural function of the patch , rounded corner mo bettah !
Yes, I do agree that closed rivets are better but it's interesting to see that this boat has now been back in the water for about 1000 days since this patch was done and still doesn't leak at all. If I could only buy open rivets I wouldn't be too worried.
@@DangarMarine yeaaaaa ight then.
im going to put a 9volt battery in my boat glove box and give it you for that smoke alarm if i see you down brooklyn way on the water
I'll keep an eye out for you! (but I already fixed that smoke detector with a hammer...)
Dangar Marine wellllllll done, can this type of patch be done underneath ......to cover pin holes
What about filling the holes in the rivets to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion between the river and the river core. The water will act as a conductor. This will last a while, but could last longer.
Stu If the holes are less than 12-13mm would you recommend patching or jus a bolt with sikaflex. Also any advise on mounting a kicker motor on the thin side of an aluminum transom. Thanks again!
Physically a bolt and washers would work but you need to be careful with the dissimilar metals problem. Finding an aluminium bolt is tricky. With the kicker you might want to install a Jack plate.
Better to mask the area around your sealant then pull off the tape. When you smear the edges like that, you leave a thin edge that starts to peal off. If you have a thick edge it’s less likely to start to peel.
What happens when the mild steel rivet centre rusts out?
We have stuff here called Marine Goo oh boy does it work if you look at my video of the lift cylinder repair you`ll see it , I sealed the trim motor lid back in 91 and it never leaked again .SHoo Goo is the trade mark name .
I'll have to check that out. It's amazing how well many of these new products work. People doubt that this type of patch will last but I've honestly seen them hold on boat that live in the water for many, many years without leaking a drop.
Any vid on the bung replacement?
No, not yet, but if you clean the transom with acetone and then use some good sealant you should be fine.
Gday mate, just about to strip and repaint a tinnie. Do u recommend acetone for a final clean before etch priming? Also what is best, sikaflex or 5200. Is the disc u used good for removing existing paint.
Yes, acetone is good for a final clean up. I've always had good success with Marine Sikaflex and those dics will definitely get old paint off.
Do you need to get aluminium rivets with aluminium mandrels too? Or can you get the ones with aluminium/steel mandrel?
I was going to say the same thing. People forget about electrolysis from the rivet
do you use common rivets alum-steel with tube-like case or special one that are closed at the end?
If you can get them I would go closed aluminium rivets, but with a bit of sealant open rivets won't leak very much, if at all.
Hey Danger, obviously you like the Sikaflex and it is a good sealant but I'm just wondering how you think it compares to 3M 5200 or even JB Weld epoxy on aluminum? Thanks
I've had a lot more luck with Sikaflex than JB weld. I think because it remains so flexible it isn't as prone to cracking as the hull twists. It's funny you should comment on this video now as this boat was in for a blown head gasket last Friday. Seeing it reminded me how well this patch has lasted, particularly given the boat is in the water 365 days a year. Sikaflex really is amazing stuff.
Ok thanks, I'll probably go with the Sikaflex for mine then. I have a really old Starcraft that the aluminum on the back part of the keel about a foot in from the transom has worn thin and developed a hole. I want to cover the whole area with a new piece of aluminum, my only concern now is if I will be able to curve the patch piece the same shape as the bottom of the hull
Good video, thanks. I'm surprised you didn't put/use washers or something on the inside of the boat to reinforce the holes for the rivets.
It depends on the hole. If I'm worried about it I'll often put a plate inside and outside, both with Sikaflex on them, that way you get double protection as well as a washer for the rivets.
I have a crack at a bolt hole that a bolt would go through to mount my transom . Should i do a patch with Jb weld ,5200 or try brazing it
Tig weld or use the Sikaflex and rivets.
What about holes in the bottom of a v hull alluminum boat
hey mate where you located cuse that looked like a new south wales plate
Yep. The workshop is 15/4 Hamley Rd Mount Kuring-Gai. Be open for business from after the weekend!
Thanks for the reply. I live in Bali and have just bought a 4.2 tinnie from a local dive mob, not in bad nick but needs some work. Do u mind if I shoot u a few questions if I get stuck? Cheers
Sure, as long as I can come to Bali one day and go boating with you! :)
Dangar Marine you are more than welcome mate. I live in North Bali and in season the place is jumpin with Mahi mahi and tuna. Decided to sand it back by hand, what grit do I use?
How do I fix pin holes that have electrolysis in them? I have ten little holes you can poke a icepick up in them?????
will the stainless and aluminum react in salt water or will it be ok in fresh water
+Dustin Mayfield It will react in both, but salt water is a stronger electrolyte so the reaction will occur faster. I would avoid the combination of aluminium and stainless steel below the water line and use Duralac between them above the water line.
ok I got a 17 ft smokercraft that I put stainless bolts in for the motor mounts
+Dustin Mayfield I wouldn't stress too much. The upper ones will be above the water line probably. Does the boat live in the water or on a trailer? Mounting bolts are pretty much always stainless. They will normally be put in with some sort of sealant like Sikaflex that will act as an insulator. The hull itself should also have an anode that will protect the hull.
I have a question not so much about the patch job but more on the trailer you have your boat on, I have a very similar trailer and I have never set one of these up before, I see that the rollers on the back of the trailer go past the aft end I have made adjustments to these rollers so that the boat now sits further back onto the rollers and I'm now thinking this could be a problem by putting the weight to far back on the trailer am I right and if so can you do a video on how to set up a trailer, thank you
Hi Adrien. This trailer isn't setup this this boat, so don't take too many queues from it. We use this trailer to pickup all the boats we work on so none of them every really fit properly. Main thing with trailers is to have all the rollers and rails raised or lowered so that the fully support the hull. You then want the boat positioned so there is a bit more weight forward holding the drawbar down into the car (or the jockey wheel if it is off the car)
Thanks for the reply and I do believe that in my case then I've done it right : )
i have a hole in my keel on my 12 foot tinney the hole is the size of a rivert would that be a good idea to just rivert it with a bit of silicone ?
Yep, a single closed rivet is a great way to seal a small hole in a tinnie. Use a marine Sikaflex type sealant though as silicone can react badly with aluminium.
Need to use a solid rivet.
I find the vitriolic reactions to this video a little bemusing. The man explains this is an alternative to tig/mig welding for DIY'ers who haven't got mig or tig..
He's not saying it is THE way to go, just a way to go. And anyone who's tried to weld repair an old aluminium boat will have a tail or three to tell about chasing cracks. Welding ain't the be all and end all.
He points out that the holes had been used for ground wires so he's hopefully driven home the message that using the hull as the return conductor is a big no-no in any metal boat.
Glad he used the plastic abrasive wheel, wire brushes can leave the wrong metals behind.
He points out that stainless steel bolts can be problematic on alloy. He's right, that is straight out of the Royal Navy Corrosion Prevention Manual. It's a relative surface area thing, you use them when you need to, but if possible you make them electrically isolated using non conductive gaskets and washers.
While it is probably better, using sealed rivets doesn't relieve you of the need to seal the opening with a bit of sealer. The idea is, whether it is an open or sealed rivet, the mandrel metal is not the same as the rivet, so you keep the water out to avoid galvanic corrosion. I've watched quite a few of these Dangar videos now. If you want Rolls Royce work, go to the Rolls dealership. If you want simple, pragmatic and cost effective, keep watching.
Does Your smoke alarm battery needs changing?
Not anymore.
Hey just a question would that sikaflex be used to sandwich marine grade plywood for a transom rebuild?
Yep, Sikaflex is perfect for that application.
You used no primer on the aluminium before? Sika Multiprimer Marine would have been probably good.
It doesn't look like it reinforces the structure, more of a patch - is that correct?
Yeah, these plates are more to patch a corrosion hole. If it is a split caused by the hull flexing or something then, yes, you will need to look at how to solve the cause of the problem too.
Dangar Marine
cool thanks man, great vid BTW!
you're the f***in man Stu
Do you have any stickers I can stick on the old Haines? big ones? as in 100mm high
Thanks mate, unfortunately no stickers yet but I do like the idea. Leave it with me! ;)
Can u show a video there you do this on a glassfiber boat?
Tord
I've never owned a fibreglass boat, sorry.
Dangar Marine Ok 👍
this guy appears to know what hes doing above other videos ive seen online....i have a question if hes around to answer or someone wiht boat repair knowledge....my dad has some pinhole leaks on teh bow of his boat well close to about 3 and i was told that resin would be best to fix that....i live in Canada if that matters but i was wondering if resin or what would be best to fix those pinhole leaks....right on the seam
just to add the part that needs patching or sealing would be constantly underwater when the boat is in the lake;)
With pinholes I just drill them out and put a closed rivet coated in Sikaflex 291 into the hole.
@@DangarMarine ok thanks
@@DangarMarine even if the leaks are on the seams? would just coating it with the adhesive be ok or still drill through?
Sorry Stu been watching all your boat rehab videos but I must say patching your own boat was a little weak. Big production for a small hole, next time chock up on the rivet shaft and let the barnacles grow a little long no patch needed 😂
some people are saying use stainless steel fastenings and you say don't...please, tell me what kind of bolts to use in an aluminum boat. I don't think they make aluminum bolts do they??
Very good question. So stainless steel and aluminium don't play very well together - galvanic corrosion starts to happen when salt water is added into the equation. For riveting, I prefer aluminium rivets as they are compatible and don't react with the hull, but for larger fittings like cleats, I do use stainless bolts as they are much stronger. To stop the reaction put a layer of something like Duralac between the stainless and the aluminium. www.jaycar.com.au/duralac-anti-corrosive-jointing-compound/p/NA1026
thank you so much. I am working on a boat rebuild right now and I was concerned I was about to do something wrong.
What is the name of that silicone?
Sikaflex.
Holy crap I must be near the beginning. Google-Alphabet-UA-cam has led me on a wild ride with this channel ,lol. So youre not a Dingo?
Just curious if this type of fix could work with water gushing into the boat, wood, plastic, steel or alum? Would sikaflex seal while wet? Seems it would also be a great temp fix if you accidentally punched a hole in the bottom.
Poly Disc is what it's called FYI .
That boat could use a power wash and a fresh coat of bottom paint
It lives in the water and gets beached about a thousand times a year, paint or antifoul would never last.
you can fiberglass aluminum boats i had an old 21ft starcraft loose rivits lots removed 150 motor and everthing inside pict it up with carfully fliped upside downset on 2 saw horses after cleaningi roll on some resin add cloth till i had covered compleat hull and trans let it dry over night add 2nd coat flipped back over placed on trailor set motor took it home-ops forgot totell panted marine grey redid insides put styrofoam down add new floor it looked like new boat when i finished and it would fly
Seam easy enough on a flat surface, but what about a curved surface such as a pontoon?
Aluminium is pretty easy to bend.
How do you get sponsors for youtube channel?
Write to the company and ask.
When you get a chance can you change the battery in that smoke detector?
Left that workshop years ago.
@@DangarMarine just messing with you. I only just recently found your videos and I am really enjoying them. I appreciate your straight forward commentary and the knowledge you share and I don't even own a boat. I'll have to watch some more to see the new shop :)
Looked like a beefy repair. Have you ever had a rivet leak? The close-up of the finished repair made me think that those holes through the rivets might be a failure point.
+Robert Ahrens I have never noticed any of the rivets leaking in the past. As the mandrel pulls up and expands the rivet if forms an extremely tight seal that blocks the water from coming in. If you want a bit of extra protection from leaks you can always coat the final patch in an epoxy paint, but if done properly it isn't really necessary.
I hope someone put a battery in that smoke detector...ha
Cut it out and make a flush patch
Are you from Australia? or the U.K.?
Australia.
I figured that...great people there!!!
wrong rivet Mate. you should use a closed end rivet. They don't leak
+edstimator1 Yeah, I do prefer the closed rivets too. They are more expensive and I've never found the open type to leak, but I do agree the closed are better.
this is probably to welding, because it distributes stresses, rather than concentrating them as a weld would do, and also does not change the strength of the hull in any unknown way through the application of extreme heat. Sika Flex or 3m 5200 ? a personal choice . This is the way an aircraft is repaired, while welding the skin would never be acceptable !
Yes, I saw the other day that a 747 has over a million rivets used in it's construction.
have you ever cleaned your boat?
+Connor Erhardt This is a customer's boat, but all the local boats live in the water 365 days a year. It only takes a month or two to get quite a bit of growth on the hull when the water's warm.
I'm surprised you didn't put the patch on the inside of the boat and fill the void on the outside with an epoxy metal filler.(Devcon etc) The repair really devalues the boat. I would have also put the epoxy all over the patch before I placed it, so not only riveted but bonded.
There just isn't any need. This boat has lived in the water every single day since that video without leaking a drop and being a commuter boat aesthetics and resale value aren't a consideration.
it lives mainly on the trailer but get used a lot
+Dustin Mayfield I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Just make sure you always have a good anode on the hull, that is the best protection you can give it.
well I found some pinholes in my boat so I put some silicone on them for now. I bought a anoid for the hull. my question is my motor has one on it why did it affect the hull? and my plugs I thought was right but they are one letter off I got my service manual today. hopefully when the auto supply gets them in she will work.
It's a good question about how much the outboard anode should protect the hull. It really comes down to the path any current flows and the path of least resistance. It is a relatively complex subject that is worth a video in its own right, but the proximity of the anode to the electrical circuit is really important. There will be resistance between all the connections so having an anode on each section is the way to go. Outboard manufacturers take care of that on the motor by having multiple anodes and linking them with stainless wire cables, but having one to protect the hull is up to you. Normally they are attached to the keel where they can be bolted through without causing any leaks.
Ok I'm gonna check where she sits on the trailer runners this morning too got myself wondering about my boat
Mate you should be using blind rivets the rivets you used will leak
These are blind rivets (where you only need to access one side of the joint), you're thinking of closed rivets. They are a good option but regular rivets are cheaps are this boat has been in the water every day for two years since this patch was done without leaking so I'm not worried.
Never earth a battery in an alloy boat to the hull always earth at the battery thats why it coroded and stainlless is ok for alloy but use the unalike metals paste and epoxy is better than sika and you should be usind sealed rivets not blind rivets there 6..4s your usingnot available at bunningseither 😊
A new battery for your smoke alarm sir
Was is beeping?
danger, need to replace smoke detector battery, mate!
+Flying Gadgeteer Not any more, that videos about a year old.
why not welding ?
Because it would be a terrible video on fixing a hole without welding if I welded it. This is the video on welding. ua-cam.com/video/Mm2CTB_THcU/v-deo.html
@@DangarMarine lmfao
next time do that on the inside and run some filler on the outside this way the friction want peel of the silicone ;) youre welcome
Get a new battery in that smoke detector?
Pretty stupid to drill holes in the hall for ground wires
Be very careful.....I think you cleaned about two square inches of that transom more than what was ABSOLUTELY necessary.
Doesn't that smoke alarm annoy you?????
Not for the last 4 years since it's been gone.
The only part I don't care for is your choice of RIVETS, your select wasn't correct, that particular Rivet selection wasn't water proof , especially below water line.
Change your battery on your smoke detector..
Too late, it's gone.
Change your smoke alarm battery
Be much better to just weld it and forget about it 20mins and she would be factory again to weld
Wouldn't be much of a video on "Fixing a hole without welding" if I welded it! This technique is very reliable by the way. For example, this boat has lived in the water and been used every day since this video was made (about three years ago). This far exceeds your average boaters use. You only have to look to the Boeing 747 to see how well rivets work. There are over a million holding each one together.
Hi there,
We would love to have your repair videos on our site
fishfulspeaking.com
We are a new fishing community including boat and outboard diy videos we are looking for quality content.
Hope to see you there
thanks
Sorry, I missed this message. Will pop along to your site and check it out. :)
Do you have any vids that show when it was that you hit your head and began thinking this was a proper fix ?...
LOL. What makes you think a comment from an idiot on the internet is going to make me doubt what I’ve seen work flawlessly for twenty years on Boat that live full time in the water?
I don't know.... Do what makes you happy. What ever you do just make sure you don't ask for or receive any advise from anyone other then yourself. Because your the best! And nobody knows anything except you. Oh yeah, the reason you don't do a repair that way is because your doing shit work ! A fucking idiot like you might be alright with it but it's not a proper fix you numb nut !... So stop trying to teach people how to do shit work like you !!!! Your a scab, with no fucking talent !!!
Way to much chatting....just get to it
why not weld it then grind it flush?
You can, but the purpose of this video was to show a technique and works well and doesn't take any specialist equipment or skills.
+Dangar Marine gotcha. I have done very little repair work but just bought a Jon boat.looking for the most effective way that looks good to resell
Sure, in that case welding is the way to go. All these boats are commuter boats that live in the water full time and aren't at all pretty. If you're looking to get the boat in shape to impress a seller then definitely get it welded up nicely.
Good luck finding someone to weld it. I’ve talked with a couple of shops and both of them didn’t want to touch it as there’s not enough money for the amount of work they felt. I’m doing this to my boat as I’ve been in the the body shop industry (retired) and have seen many applications using rivets with a good quality sealer and Sikaflex is a good, if not the best industrial sealer. Good Job!