So glad I found your channel. Very informative, how-to, and why videos. The why is important. A lot of people will show you what to do but give no explanation as to why. Will definitely be going through your videos to help me with my own little boat.
Glad you found the channel, and excited to have you aboard. I try to mix up a little bit of entertainment with how to and why. We got some crazy builds coming this year, going to be a lot of fun!
@@joshuahatley2590 Yes sir, I am on IG. I am trying to post more on there, but things have been so crazy with business lately I just post randomly throughout the week when I can.
First of skeeter, awesome videos. Couldn’t have been doing it without ya. I have been through the wringer trying this and I’ve found a fool proof method. You will need: Blind pop rivets (closed end not necessary) Torch Brazing rods Grinder Grinder both sides of the hull shiny. Put a pop rivet in the hole. Grind the head smooth, not quit flush but smooth enough to eliminate the rivets contour. Head the rivet. Braze the surface. Grind off the back of the rivet. Braze the surface. Done. Clean. Strong.
Little advice, not a slam. You will get a better outcome if you heat the surface hot enough to melt the rod by itself. Don’t use the torch to melt the rod. 👍
What type of bolts do you recommend for replacing handles and transom bracing? I just replaced the transom in a 1998 lund wc16 and need to use new bolts on the transom brace and handles.
Do you have a preference of solid rivets versus the sealed rivets? I have the means to install solid rivets but wasn't sure if it was worth the extra work.
Love all the videos. Got any tips for repairing/ armor plating bottom for rocky rivers? i've bashed in the bottom before the transom creating a large lip, I caught a rock recently and tore a hole in the back. currently jb welded but want to put some plate to protect it. Every tried/done anything like this? Would love to hear your thoughts. Cheers from Alberta, Canada
Looked at all of your transom videos but don't see how you attached the wood thru the back of the transom. Did you use bolts , rivets or what. My old Jon boat , Sears Gamefisher, has some type of rivets that attached a keystone shaped piece of plywood to the outside of the transom. Also about a 5 inch piece of plywood along the top of the inside. Again, using some type of long rivets.
LOL, No not spittoons. Those are samples in hydro dipping shop. They are called speed shapes. They are just cheap pieces of plastic that we use to show off different patterns.
it was an old livewell hole.I used a patch of aluminum and brazed it in... I just forgot to film it. I will put a hole in another boat an show people how to fix it, I get asked that a lot.
Does taking the seats out affect the structural integrity at all? Also I have a tear/crack about 1.5 inches long 3-5mm wide by my drain plug in my jon boat will brazing be strong enough to fix it do you think? I just have sealant over it right now, because that is what I had on hand.
Yes it will make the boat flex a lot in the middle, I only took mine out because I was adding a lot of deck to front and that new framing gave it a lot of stability and now it is rock solid.
Thanks for the video/ would you use the sealed rivet & 5200 vs a solid rivets you would have to buck? I’m restoring an old 57 sea king vhull and it has the solid ones. I’m looking for something that will last a long time.
Great video and advice. Thank you. Have you got any videos on how to fill larger holes? I have some holes that are up to 3/4" and a lot of 1/2" holes in the transom from a hillbilly transom fix
I removed the livewell in the boat I bought then had a hole bigger than a inch diameter in the bottom of the boat. I cut part of the aluminum live well with tin snips then glued it over the hole with jb weld. Only have maybe six hours on it now. I think it's still holding up but I'm not sure. There was a lot of water in the bottom of the boat after my father spilled the six gallon bait bucket in the boat. This just reminds me that I need to check the patch.
I doubt you’ll see my comment but I’m currently having the issue of thinking of a way to patch the holes in my Jon boat because when I drilled out the original rivets to replace the foam I absolutely butchered the holes and now I can’t seal them with new rivets. I think im gonna want to use brazed aluminum but what would you personally do? Also I would say there are about 10 holes I need to patch.
If you can drill the holes out to a bigger size and put larger rivets in there. If the holes are too big I would use the brazing rods and braze all the holes up. If the hole is really big, put a piece of 1/16th aluminum behind the hole and braze from the outside.
Don't even have a trailer for my 12-ft jon boat... Load it on the roof rack of my jeep....just got a little 3hp 60 yo evenrude outboard for it and a coupke swivel clamp on seats for the benches... Way more luxurious than paddling against the wind fight and wakes from speed boats and all that BS.... I wouldn't dare try to take this thing 20mph...thats ballzy bro!
Hey, so towards the back of your boat on the corners of the transom, you have those like triangle gusset covers? Whatever they're called. My jon boat doesn't have those and the aluminum on the whole transom is very thin and flexible. Are those something I can add to my boat to strengthen it?
Yeah you could make some or call Nate at Nates Custom Boats and he could make you some to rivet in fairly easily. Me... I would call Nate and let him make some the right way.
I have to disagree with the use of those adhesive/sealers. I have patched numerous gashes and rips in aluminum canoes and boats for 40 years using the JB Weld and 3M- 5200. Both products work extremely well on big wounds. If yuou can't simply fill the gap, than an aluminum patch can be coated and just glued over the rip or tear. Additional riveting is optional. There are very few stronger bonding adhesives on the planet than the 3M-5200. When cured, it is like a hard rubber block, similar to an engine mount, but it sticks like epoxy. the fact that it remains flexible adds to its longevity. If you don't want to screw around with a torch and rod, and yuou want to be done in mere minutes, glue it. I never go out in an alloy canoe without both a roll of gorilla tape and some JB Weld or 5200.
Cool deal I just bought a tracker 1648sc The previous owner mounted rod holders from the inside of the boat with drywall screws. They were still sticking out when I went to look at it. I was totally horrified. Yep two screws above the water line and two screws below the water line x 2. So what I did being a plumber 😁💪I took stainless faucet screws,washers,and 00 faucet washers and nutted them on the inside . They're maybe 1/4" so you barely notice them. I figured if they can hold 100psi for 20 yrs that should work. Only thing I might do is take em apart and 5200 em. Wasn't thinking about the rivet . I can't torch a patch cause I'll never match the factory camo. Good video Thanks👌
@@SendItJonBoats lol colder whew.... Goodluck with that one ..... right now It looks like I’m ready to propose to the water 😂😂😂 but keep doing your thing🖤🤴🏻🍾🎥
How well will the brazing hold up? I hear so many mixed reviews...i have a bunch of spots that have little corosion pits but not holes all the way through...would you think jb marine or brazing would be best..i plan on gatorglide or steelflex bottum coat after..would like your input...thanks
I guess let me be the first to comment on this video dude you are absolutely hilarious I've been following Michael for a long time and the other guys but I use Marine texts I find it to work the best bud check it out let me know what you think
Thanks bud, glad I could provide some entertainment. Got many more good videos and laughs coming your way, and it will only get crazier as we go. Wait till you see the new project coming up next week. Michael is da man no doubt. I will check out that Marine texts.
All those do work,but on a riveted boat I use the same rivets that the factory uses. They're called buck rivets. Why? Because they seal up better,they're stronger,and you don't have to play around with sealers. Yeah you will have to have an air compressor (majority of people do,even if it's a 2gal HF special),an air gun which is like $10-20 at HF,an anvil matching the size of rivet your installing ,and heavy steel plate or object (almost everybody has a hammer of some sort),and lastly a friend to add an extra hand depending on area the rivet needs replaced,added,etc. It sounds like a lot but in the long run it's very easy,quick,and the strongest method. If it's sounds like a Scooter comment,oh well,some of us like to do stuff correctly the 1st time,do it easy,have it last,and save money all at the same time.
![Gator Glide and Gator Base [How to Apply, The Right Way]](/img/n.gif)
5200 is the BOMB! Appreciate you going over all these steps in detail.
Yeah that stuff could make 2 slices of butter stick together
@@SendItJonBoatsand never leak
Thanks for sharing these skills.
Appreciate you watching. Glad I could help.
So glad I found your channel.
Very informative, how-to, and why videos. The why is important. A lot of people will show you what to do but give no explanation as to why.
Will definitely be going through your videos to help me with my own little boat.
Glad you found the channel, and excited to have you aboard. I try to mix up a little bit of entertainment with how to and why. We got some crazy builds coming this year, going to be a lot of fun!
@@SendItJonBoats you have an IG or FB where you post and talk about your builds?
@@joshuahatley2590 Yes sir, I am on IG. I am trying to post more on there, but things have been so crazy with business lately I just post randomly throughout the week when I can.
First of skeeter, awesome videos. Couldn’t have been doing it without ya.
I have been through the wringer trying this and I’ve found a fool proof method.
You will need:
Blind pop rivets (closed end not necessary)
Torch
Brazing rods
Grinder
Grinder both sides of the hull shiny. Put a pop rivet in the hole. Grind the head smooth, not quit flush but smooth enough to eliminate the rivets contour. Head the rivet. Braze the surface. Grind off the back of the rivet. Braze the surface. Done. Clean. Strong.
Nice work!
Good job
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching.
Little advice, not a slam. You will get a better outcome if you heat the surface hot enough to melt the rod by itself. Don’t use the torch to melt the rod. 👍
yup, it was a bad camera shot and unfortunately I did not catch it until after was finished and I was editing the video.
Thank you for this. This is great!
You're very welcome! Glad I could help
Thanks and great shows
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for checking out the video.
This way a great video - Thanks!
Thanks for the info man big help !
Glad I could help.
Good stuff! I have a riveted Jon boat that I wanna reconfigure but have been afraid with the holes. Love the brazing technique.
Brazing aint bad, just takes some practice. I like brazing but rivets are super easy as well.
Great job👍
Thanks Brad, appreciate you checking out the video.
Excellent content!!!
Thanks Mud Motors Max!
This is where working at a fabrication shop comes in handy
Yup. Fab shops make life easy
How in the world do you not have more subscribers you are awesome
Thanks Kory, appreciate that. Hopefully the channel will continue growing, we shall see... but regardless I am going to send it!
Great info. Dig your videos.
Just had mine get about an inch by inch hole in it. Any thoughts on the best way to fix that?
Cut a sheet of aluminum bigger than the hole, 5200 it to the inside of the hull, and use rivets to hold it together.
I have a small crack at one of the bolt holes where the transom’s mounts . should i try brazing the crack or put a patch over it
First, stop drill it. Them do patching
Like he said, stop drill it first then patch it with brazing rods or have it welded.
What type of bolts do you recommend for replacing handles and transom bracing? I just replaced the transom in a 1998 lund wc16 and need to use new bolts on the transom brace and handles.
Do you have a preference of solid rivets versus the sealed rivets? I have the means to install solid rivets but wasn't sure if it was worth the extra work.
Sealed rivets have worked great for me.
Love all the videos. Got any tips for repairing/ armor plating bottom for rocky rivers? i've bashed in the bottom before the transom creating a large lip, I caught a rock recently and tore a hole in the back. currently jb welded but want to put some plate to protect it. Every tried/done anything like this? Would love to hear your thoughts. Cheers from Alberta, Canada
I would look into that UHMW plastic stuff the jet boat guys put on the bottom of thier hulls. That would probably work well for you.
What do you suggest is best way to fill bolt holes in the transom
Easiest way is a bolt or rivet with 3m 5200. I did that a bunch on my boat.
I maybe have missed this in in if the videos but how did you seal the drain hole for the livewell?
I think I forgot to film that part. I used a piece of aluminum sheeting to cover the hole and brazed it closed.
Looked at all of your transom videos but don't see how you attached the wood thru the back of the transom. Did you use bolts , rivets or what. My old Jon boat , Sears Gamefisher, has some type of rivets that attached a keystone shaped piece of plywood to the outside of the transom. Also about a 5 inch piece of plywood along the top of the inside. Again, using some type of long rivets.
OK I scrolled through what are those things on your wall spittoons?
LOL, No not spittoons. Those are samples in hydro dipping shop. They are called speed shapes. They are just cheap pieces of plastic that we use to show off different patterns.
Howd you fill the large hole in the center? Looks like an old livewell or somthing...
it was an old livewell hole.I used a patch of aluminum and brazed it in... I just forgot to film it. I will put a hole in another boat an show people how to fix it, I get asked that a lot.
Does taking the seats out affect the structural integrity at all? Also I have a tear/crack about 1.5 inches long 3-5mm wide by my drain plug in my jon boat will brazing be strong enough to fix it do you think? I just have sealant over it right now, because that is what I had on hand.
Yes it will make the boat flex a lot in the middle, I only took mine out because I was adding a lot of deck to front and that new framing gave it a lot of stability and now it is rock solid.
Thanks for the video/ would you use the sealed rivet & 5200 vs a solid rivets you would have to buck? I’m restoring an old 57 sea king vhull and it has the solid ones. I’m looking for something that will last a long time.
either rivet will work. I use both and they all hold up just fine
This would also work for a deep v aluminum boat, correct?
Yes it will work on any aluminum boat.
Is that last step necessary? Could I overlook the marine epoxy & get away with it?
Yeah you probably can.
Did you braise the hole in the bottom of the boat? Got the exact same size boat
I sure did. Brazed it and then caked the inside with 3m 5200. It will never leak again.
I’ve been wanting to take the center bench out of my 2017 smokercraft. It’s still new enough I don’t want to wreck it! This was a huge help thanks!
Glad I could help.
What is the best sealant for transom bolts for aluminum boat hulls?
3m 5200
It’s the the Advanced kit or the hot one try got 2 at my home depot
Uhhh what?
what kind of alcohal do u use ?
After 5pm usually Landshark and some wild turkey 101.
But for cleaning, I use isopropyl alcohol.
Great video and advice. Thank you. Have you got any videos on how to fill larger holes? I have some holes that are up to 3/4" and a lot of 1/2" holes in the transom from a hillbilly transom fix
TIG weld or rivet on a patch
Large holes need to be welded
If above the waterline, just fill them with a polyester caulk for marine conditions.
I removed the livewell in the boat I bought then had a hole bigger than a inch diameter in the bottom of the boat. I cut part of the aluminum live well with tin snips then glued it over the hole with jb weld. Only have maybe six hours on it now. I think it's still holding up but I'm not sure. There was a lot of water in the bottom of the boat after my father spilled the six gallon bait bucket in the boat.
This just reminds me that I need to check the patch.
Jb weld is some good stuff. It usually holds up well.
I doubt you’ll see my comment but I’m currently having the issue of thinking of a way to patch the holes in my Jon boat because when I drilled out the original rivets to replace the foam I absolutely butchered the holes and now I can’t seal them with new rivets. I think im gonna want to use brazed aluminum but what would you personally do? Also I would say there are about 10 holes I need to patch.
If you can drill the holes out to a bigger size and put larger rivets in there. If the holes are too big I would use the brazing rods and braze all the holes up. If the hole is really big, put a piece of 1/16th aluminum behind the hole and braze from the outside.
@@SendItJonBoats I think I’m just going to take it to get tig welded because when I used a torch it warped the aluminum. Thanks for the help though👍
Don't even have a trailer for my 12-ft jon boat... Load it on the roof rack of my jeep....just got a little 3hp 60 yo evenrude outboard for it and a coupke swivel clamp on seats for the benches... Way more luxurious than paddling against the wind fight and wakes from speed boats and all that BS.... I wouldn't dare try to take this thing 20mph...thats ballzy bro!
I got a 10 footer that I want to make go 100mph. Hopefull someday!
No solid rivet hole fills??
We will be covering that in another video, requires a little more time and tools to do it properly,
Hey, so towards the back of your boat on the corners of the transom, you have those like triangle gusset covers? Whatever they're called. My jon boat doesn't have those and the aluminum on the whole transom is very thin and flexible. Are those something I can add to my boat to strengthen it?
Yeah you could make some or call Nate at Nates Custom Boats and he could make you some to rivet in fairly easily. Me... I would call Nate and let him make some the right way.
@@SendItJonBoats thank you, so you know specifically what those are called?
@@TheColoradoCraftsman I call them transom corner caps... not sure what the technical term is, but that makes sense to me,
A little tip with 5200 brake cleaner will help with the clean up
Probably can do some spot welding and patching with a spool gun on a mig machine.
Welding would be real easy... but at the time I didn't have a welder so we were covering no welding fixes.
What if you have a whole that’s about the size of a quarter
Where is it?
Buy some .050" 5000 series alloy aluminum sheet and make patches with 5200.
Yup that is another good one I did not think about it when filming this video.
I have to disagree with the use of those adhesive/sealers. I have patched numerous gashes and rips in aluminum canoes and boats for 40 years using the JB Weld and 3M- 5200. Both products work extremely well on big wounds. If yuou can't simply fill the gap, than an aluminum patch can be coated and just glued over the rip or tear. Additional riveting is optional. There are very few stronger bonding adhesives on the planet than the 3M-5200. When cured, it is like a hard rubber block, similar to an engine mount, but it sticks like epoxy. the fact that it remains flexible adds to its longevity.
If you don't want to screw around with a torch and rod, and yuou want to be done in mere minutes, glue it. I never go out in an alloy canoe without both a roll of gorilla tape and some JB Weld or 5200.
I just found a 16 foot jon v bottom has holes but I can't beat the price
holes are easy fix man! Congrats on the new boat.
Cool deal
I just bought a tracker 1648sc
The previous owner mounted rod holders from the inside of the boat with drywall screws. They were still sticking out when I went to look at it. I was totally horrified. Yep two screws above the water line and two screws below the water line x 2. So what I did being a plumber 😁💪I took stainless faucet screws,washers,and 00 faucet washers and nutted them on the inside . They're maybe 1/4" so you barely notice them. I figured if they can hold 100psi for 20 yrs that should work. Only thing I might do is take em apart and 5200 em. Wasn't thinking about the rivet . I can't torch a patch cause I'll never match the factory camo. Good video
Thanks👌
WOW!!!! scooters do some stupid stuff to boats. Glad you got it fixed with your plumbing skills! LOL
Bud where do you call home? .
Covington Georgia for now. I was born in Louisiana and wish I could be back there!
@@SendItJonBoats your welcome back anytime... I’m a Louisiana native myself
@@treybaskin9775 I miss louisiana and wish I could move back. My wife wont allow it! She wants to move somewhere colder, I told her BYE FELCICIA!!!
@@SendItJonBoats lol colder whew.... Goodluck with that one ..... right now It looks like I’m ready to propose to the water 😂😂😂 but keep doing your thing🖤🤴🏻🍾🎥
@@treybaskin9775 She is crazy... I told her she could move to Alaska and I will move back to Louisiana and she can visit lol.
My boat is so this I would not use a torch just silacone.
I have seen my grandad use a little peace of lead and two hammers to batter it flat
Yeah that would work good too!
5200 sealant sucks use Jb weld
How well will the brazing hold up? I hear so many mixed reviews...i have a bunch of spots that have little corosion pits but not holes all the way through...would you think jb marine or brazing would be best..i plan on gatorglide or steelflex bottum coat after..would like your input...thanks
Brazing has always worked good for me so far. For small pits I would just clean them really well, wire wheel it, then fill with jb weld.
A school ag shop might be good we got to learn somehow🤷♂️
Good idea!
Harbor freight will scan the 20% coupon off your phone
Had I not been in a rush I would have found a coupon and done it on my phone, but I wasnt even thinking about it.
I guess let me be the first to comment on this video dude you are absolutely hilarious I've been following Michael for a long time and the other guys but I use Marine texts I find it to work the best bud check it out let me know what you think
Thanks bud, glad I could provide some entertainment. Got many more good videos and laughs coming your way, and it will only get crazier as we go. Wait till you see the new project coming up next week. Michael is da man no doubt. I will check out that Marine texts.
Look forward to it buddy keep up the great work and it's Marine tex sorry talk to text LOL
@@wilsonlourenco1339 Marine Tex... got it.
All those do work,but on a riveted boat I use the same rivets that the factory uses. They're called buck rivets. Why? Because they seal up better,they're stronger,and you don't have to play around with sealers. Yeah you will have to have an air compressor (majority of people do,even if it's a 2gal HF special),an air gun which is like $10-20 at HF,an anvil matching the size of rivet your installing ,and heavy steel plate or object (almost everybody has a hammer of some sort),and lastly a friend to add an extra hand depending on area the rivet needs replaced,added,etc. It sounds like a lot but in the long run it's very easy,quick,and the strongest method.
If it's sounds like a Scooter comment,oh well,some of us like to do stuff correctly the 1st time,do it easy,have it last,and save money all at the same time.
Trust me I get it, but most people wont buck rivets.These ways are just easier.