I gave up and made access holes on each side. Works like a charm and if it ever happens again, it'll take 5 minutes to replace. Looks ugly, but from the outside it looks stock.
I followed your advice and made access holes with multi tool. Took a while to perfect the opening to allow for a small socket but will be super easy to replace 120A Alt Fuse in the future. Thanks for pointer! -2013 FJ Cruiser
OK, I successfully replaced my 40 amp fusible link. This is doable but it's more than just banging a screwdriver in the holes. Read all of this and see pics at below linked site before attempting. There are 4 outer lock tabs in those holes. When you look in the hole it looks like 2 thin barb ends sticking up. One barb is metal. Put the screwdriver BETWEEN the barbs and twist, then pry against the metal one. It's the one you're trying to unlock. You're trying to pry it away from the center of the hole. Now tap the screwdriver with a mallet (I used a pair of pliers ha) til the thick end of the screwdriver blade is between the barbs, and twist and pry again.This may take a few tries. I took the battery out and snipped the tie down holding the wire bundle under the fuse box, as well as the bolts holding the fuse box (after unlocking first 4 locks), to loosen things up enough for the inner fuse box to slide out.... Now the hard part. Splitting the inner fuse box... Along the seam between the left half and the right half of the inner fuse box, there are two tiny slots just big enough to fit a #2 flat head screwdriver tip. Bang it in an inch and pry the handle of the screwdriver in the direction of the windshield to unlock but don't break anything. Make sure you find the right slots it's the THIN ONE. Next to a fatter slot. Just big enough for the tip if a smaller flathead screwdriver. There is a thin ridge of plastic very near the center of the inner fuse box where you can grasp it with a pair of good piers. I used linesmans pliers. Bang on a safe area of the left half while holding the fin (attached to the right half) with the pliers. If you unlocked the inner 2 locks, (these are just plastic locks and no way to see them until apart) it should shift. The left half goes down, the right half goes up. Oh yeah, you have to hold the whole thing up while splitting, so it doesn't lock back into the outer box. It may take more prying, twisting, and banging, than mentioned above. Try not to break anything. Once apart use a long socket ( I used a short socket on a 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor) Break the bolt and then pull off the ratchet, finger spin it out. and careful not to let the bolt fall out of the socket when you get it out. It's very short. One on both sides. 10mm and 8mm. In hindsight, I may have used a dab of grease in the socket to help with not dropping it out while installing and removing, but I managed. This will also work for the 40 amp heater ( blower motor) fusible link in left half, as well as the alternator 140 amp fusible link in the right half of the inner fuse box. There are pics here showing where the 4 outer locks are and the (thin slot next to fat slot) split locks are close to them at each end in the pics. Use the thin slot. www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/25350-changing-fuse-simple-not-2.html You may find yet easier ways to get this done. This is just how I did it. Good luck, and godspeed.
Thanks to your comment I was able to get mine done in 15 mins. The key was the way you described how the plastic clips held the board into the shell of the unit. Once I stuck my screwdriver into this clips the way you described it all went smooth. I also used two smaller vice grips on either side of the fuse panel to pull up and out. Thanks for your comment
You should really post this on 4runner.org, after much searching around, found this. very helpful, and as far as I know, the only write up on dissecting the box on the internet. thanks!
wow what a chintsy design on that fuse box, after rattling it all around i would not feel very confident that all of the connections inside were still good.
I know this video was posted about a year ago but I recently just purchased a 2005 Highlander and the alternator fuse was ripped apart cause the previous owner couldn't get it out. Right now it's bridged with a piece of metal, but I obviously would like to replace it. The car is old and has over 200k on it but I work in the city and I only need to the car to drive to the train every morning which is about a mile and a half there and back a day. It's should be fine for that but I would like to fix a few minor thing. Would this process apply to a 2005 Highlander as well as this 4 runner?
Do we have to let the negative glance off the 200 dollar battery while we compromise all the other connections in the box man handling it like a gorilla? Oil change guy got his wings too soon.
Christopher Stork I add that to the title. I already had it apart and thought about making the video when putting it back together. I wanted to show that you could get it a part without tearing it apart. I hope the video was somewhat helpful.
That thick white cable that comes off that fuse via the top up right bolt at the passenger side rear of the fuse box with the 90 degree bent connector tab. any know where that goes I have a hard short on mine.
Never remove the positive cable first, this can cause a spark issue. Look at it this way, if you put a wrench on the positive cable to loosen it and the wrench touches metal, you have created a dead short to ground and can fry the positive terminal, the wrench and possibly your hand. If you attempt to remove the ground first and your wrench touches metal, nothing will happen. Always remove the ground first and be sure to remove any hand rings.
joseph felice 2 points: 1. It has less to do with shock and more to do with shorting out and frying shit. 2. You should unhook the negative, not the positive. While it’s true that shorting just the positive cable to ground won’t hurt anything, hooking it back up with the ground connected is a great way to short it out with your wrench haha. Been there, done that 🤣
What makes me watch this video, all I see is shaking the fuse box video end. What the hell is this I was searching for who to replace the main alternator fuse for Toyota 4Runner 2007. Not help at all.
My Toyota Tech told me that it’s like a puzzle box and challenging for the DIY but doable. Well done, thanks.
I gave up and made access holes on each side. Works like a charm and if it ever happens again, it'll take 5 minutes to replace. Looks ugly, but from the outside it looks stock.
am still lost with these release tabs
@@reddmann4340 you ever get it figured out? Currently trying to work on it now and it’s a doozy
I followed your advice and made access holes with multi tool. Took a while to perfect the opening to allow for a small socket but will be super easy to replace 120A Alt Fuse in the future. Thanks for pointer! -2013 FJ Cruiser
OK, I successfully replaced my 40 amp fusible link.
This is doable but it's more than just banging a screwdriver in the holes. Read all of this and see pics at below linked site before attempting.
There are 4 outer lock tabs in those holes. When you look in the hole it looks like 2 thin barb ends sticking up. One barb is metal. Put the screwdriver BETWEEN the barbs and twist, then pry against the metal one. It's the one you're trying to unlock. You're trying to pry it away from the center of the hole. Now tap the screwdriver with a mallet (I used a pair of pliers ha) til the thick end of the screwdriver blade is between the barbs, and twist and pry again.This may take a few tries. I took the battery out and snipped the tie down holding the wire bundle under the fuse box, as well as the bolts holding the fuse box (after unlocking first 4 locks), to loosen things up enough for the inner fuse box to slide out....
Now the hard part.
Splitting the inner fuse box...
Along the seam between the left half and the right half of the inner fuse box, there are two tiny slots just big enough to fit a #2 flat head screwdriver tip. Bang it in an inch and pry the handle of the screwdriver in the direction of the windshield to unlock but don't break anything. Make sure you find the right slots it's the THIN ONE. Next to a fatter slot. Just big enough for the tip if a smaller flathead screwdriver. There is a thin ridge of plastic very near the center of the inner fuse box where you can grasp it with a pair of good piers. I used linesmans pliers. Bang on a safe area of the left half while holding the fin (attached to the right half) with the pliers. If you unlocked the inner 2 locks, (these are just plastic locks and no way to see them until apart) it should shift. The left half goes down, the right half goes up.
Oh yeah, you have to hold the whole thing up while splitting, so it doesn't lock back into the outer box.
It may take more prying, twisting, and banging, than mentioned above. Try not to break anything.
Once apart use a long socket ( I used a short socket on a 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor) Break the bolt and then pull off the ratchet, finger spin it out. and careful not to let the bolt fall out of the socket when you get it out. It's very short. One on both sides. 10mm and 8mm. In hindsight, I may have used a dab of grease in the socket to help with not dropping it out while installing and removing, but I managed. This will also work for the 40 amp heater ( blower motor) fusible link in left half, as well as the alternator 140 amp fusible link in the right half of the inner fuse box.
There are pics here showing where the 4 outer locks are and the (thin slot next to fat slot) split locks are close to them at each end in the pics. Use the thin slot. www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/25350-changing-fuse-simple-not-2.html
You may find yet easier ways to get this done. This is just how I did it.
Good luck, and godspeed.
What else did you do? I can't get it to let go in the outboard side closest to the wheel
Thanks to your comment I was able to get mine done in 15 mins. The key was the way you described how the plastic clips held the board into the shell of the unit. Once I stuck my screwdriver into this clips the way you described it all went smooth. I also used two smaller vice grips on either side of the fuse panel to pull up and out. Thanks for your comment
Thanks!! Really help out with my 2006 4runner
You should really post this on 4runner.org, after much searching around, found this. very helpful, and as far as I know, the only write up on dissecting the box on the internet. thanks!
@@jreg0028 I am so lost with these clips
Thanks a million for sharing this. I would not have figured this out ever without watching this.
I am still lost with these release tabs
thanks man! would have been even helpfull to see how you extract the 2 halfes from the box.
Thanks for sharing. You the man.
wow what a chintsy design on that fuse box, after rattling it all around i would not feel very confident that all of the connections inside were still good.
It's been running fine since I did it with no problems
Would have been alot better if you showed how to take it apart.
I know this video was posted about a year ago but I recently just purchased a 2005 Highlander and the alternator fuse was ripped apart cause the previous owner couldn't get it out. Right now it's bridged with a piece of metal, but I obviously would like to replace it. The car is old and has over 200k on it but I work in the city and I only need to the car to drive to the train every morning which is about a mile and a half there and back a day. It's should be fine for that but I would like to fix a few minor thing. Would this process apply to a 2005 Highlander as well as this 4 runner?
if it has the 4.7 v8 engine in it it should be fairly similar.
am still lost with these release tabs
Do we have to let the negative glance off the 200 dollar battery while we compromise all the other connections in the box man handling it like a gorilla? Oil change guy got his wings too soon.
To separate does not make sense. The two tabs. Tap with a runner Mallet part is what I don’t understand
Add the words "140 amp fusible link" to your title to get more views.
Christopher Stork I add that to the title. I already had it apart and thought about making the video when putting it back together. I wanted to show that you could get it a part without tearing it apart. I hope the video was somewhat helpful.
That thick white cable that comes off that fuse via the top up right bolt at the passenger side rear of the fuse box with the 90 degree bent connector tab. any know where that goes I have a hard short on mine.
should be to the starter or alternator
How do you take It apart?
Did you mention that the positive cable needs to be removed to avoid possible shock?
Never remove the positive cable first, this can cause a spark issue. Look at it this way, if you put a wrench on the positive cable to loosen it and the wrench touches metal, you have created a dead short to ground and can fry the positive terminal, the wrench and possibly your hand. If you attempt to remove the ground first and your wrench touches metal, nothing will happen. Always remove the ground first and be sure to remove any hand rings.
joseph felice 2 points:
1. It has less to do with shock and more to do with shorting out and frying shit. 2. You should unhook the negative, not the positive. While it’s true that shorting just the positive cable to ground won’t hurt anything, hooking it back up with the ground connected is a great way to short it out with your wrench haha. Been there, done that 🤣
So just manhandled the piss out of it then? Oh okay.
Yea pretty much
What makes me watch this video, all I see is shaking the fuse box video end. What the hell is this I was searching for who to replace the main alternator fuse for Toyota 4Runner 2007.
Not help at all.
Like what's the point of showing how to put something back together. We would know how to put it back to together if we knew how to take it apart lmao
Please move that black negative away father please 🙏
😁
Maybe you should have practiced first, before trying to teach😮