Mr. Leach, you are amazing. Thank you for sharing your experience and beautiful work! I have a small suspension business (we build our own components) and have always have been fascinated by spring guns. I’m just starting to play with my HW77 I purchased in Germany back in 1984 and brought it here to the USA in my luggage. I have been thinking about the potential changes I could make and your experience is so valuable as I may be too old to ever actually gain enough myself in this lifetime. If you have a kit for my rifle, I’ll be happy to buy it. I do wish to make the 25mm rifle be over the 12FPE limit as some of my use is on pests but a lot is on steel swinging targets. I’m American so more is better, I guess! I know there are a lot of twisting forces within the system and the two part and hardened washers seem a good idea to try to allow for that. Is seems like a bronze thrust washer would be good sandwiched in there too. I can see soft things being ruined in time by the repetitive impacts. Really interesting and fun.
Great video. And some great points 👍 I’ve always thought it possible that delrin guides can snap because some springs won’t compress in a linear manner. The lateral force, if a spring decides to do so, will be incredible. I put one in my TX about 2 years ago and it’s been fine ever since. (Shot for at least 2 hrs a week for over 12 months within this 2 years) But my mate tried one in his Prosport and it snapped 3 of them almost immediately. I wanted to try another spring but sadly it didn’t happen.
Would there be any benefit, if you would add some small flutes to the piston rod, to slightly reduce the contact area vs the guide tube and perhaps break the suction effect between the two? The suction effect,, rather than the spring itself,, may be what is pulling the guide tube forward at the end of the piston stroke or perhaps even after the rebound(?), when the piston goes forward again. Might be worth an experiment to try adding flutes to the piston rod.
It's the spring that pulls guides, I have captured it with a high speed video then slowed it down to watch. The guides work well if just not too tight, same for Delrin but temperature effects Delrin also which I'm planning on talking about in another video
@@TonyLeach-airguntech Ah, that's great you've already done high-speed video! I was thinking to suggest just that, but firing a springer, taken out of its stock, in order to see what's really going on inside, seemed a bit too adventurous to go there. Any chance you could share that high-speed video footage on UA-cam?
Titanium burrs or causes Burr's, not really an ideal solution within an airgun plus is expensive. Most of the stainless I use within my parts is 440c, the same grade they use for valves in car engines etc, it's a higher carbon blend of stainless, can be hardened and is extremely tough. What I use works, not going to swap and go thru a learning curve again.
Thanks for that info. Not being an engineer, I've always wondered why Titanium never seems to be mentioned or used on air rifles. I know it's more costly and harder to work with but there is always someone who will pay for the best (if it was I suppose). I've always been told it's half the weight of steel but has twice the strength and doesn't rust. Perhaps air bottles made of it then? Thanks for your expertise and insight on this subject. I really enjoy your videos and find them extremely educational. Thank you and thanks for your quick reply. 👍
Please continue with your rambles. They shed light on the "The Dark Art of Springers".
Thank you Mr. Leach I have come to the same conclusion, it is great to see someone else has confirmed my theory
Mr. Leach, you are amazing. Thank you for sharing your experience and beautiful work! I have a small suspension business (we build our own components) and have always have been fascinated by spring guns. I’m just starting to play with my HW77 I purchased in Germany back in 1984 and brought it here to the USA in my luggage. I have been thinking about the potential changes I could make and your experience is so valuable as I may be too old to ever actually gain enough myself in this lifetime. If you have a kit for my rifle, I’ll be happy to buy it. I do wish to make the 25mm rifle be over the 12FPE limit as some of my use is on pests but a lot is on steel swinging targets. I’m American so more is better, I guess! I know there are a lot of twisting forces within the system and the two part and hardened washers seem a good idea to try to allow for that. Is seems like a bronze thrust washer would be good sandwiched in there too. I can see soft things being ruined in time by the repetitive impacts. Really interesting and fun.
Great video.
And some great points 👍
I’ve always thought it possible that delrin guides can snap because some springs won’t compress in a linear manner.
The lateral force, if a spring decides to do so, will be incredible.
I put one in my TX about 2 years ago and it’s been fine ever since. (Shot for at least 2 hrs a week for over 12 months within this 2 years)
But my mate tried one in his Prosport and it snapped 3 of them almost immediately.
I wanted to try another spring but sadly it didn’t happen.
Lubricant is the key on steel to steel
Is eazy tu fix tha just get tape and put it around the guide so the spring is snug in the guide and done .try it and tell me.
Great video. What are your thought on trust bearings underneath the guide?
no need for them
Hi Tony does this breaking effect a tight top hat.
Would there be any benefit, if you would add some small flutes to the piston rod, to slightly reduce the contact area vs the guide tube and perhaps break the suction effect between the two? The suction effect,, rather than the spring itself,, may be what is pulling the guide tube forward at the end of the piston stroke or perhaps even after the rebound(?), when the piston goes forward again. Might be worth an experiment to try adding flutes to the piston rod.
It's the spring that pulls guides, I have captured it with a high speed video then slowed it down to watch.
The guides work well if just not too tight, same for Delrin but temperature effects Delrin also which I'm planning on talking about in another video
@@TonyLeach-airguntech Ah, that's great you've already done high-speed video! I was thinking to suggest just that, but firing a springer, taken out of its stock, in order to see what's really going on inside, seemed a bit too adventurous to go there. Any chance you could share that high-speed video footage on UA-cam?
It have to be snugh not to tight not to luse.
Would Titanium be better than Stainless steel? light but strong?
Titanium burrs or causes Burr's, not really an ideal solution within an airgun plus is expensive. Most of the stainless I use within my parts is 440c, the same grade they use for valves in car engines etc, it's a higher carbon blend of stainless, can be hardened and is extremely tough.
What I use works, not going to swap and go thru a learning curve again.
Thanks for that info. Not being an engineer, I've always wondered why Titanium never seems to be mentioned or used on air rifles. I know it's more costly and harder to work with but there is always someone who will pay for the best (if it was I suppose). I've always been told it's half the weight of steel but has twice the strength and doesn't rust. Perhaps air bottles made of it then? Thanks for your expertise and insight on this subject. I really enjoy your videos and find them extremely educational. Thank you and thanks for your quick reply. 👍