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- Опубліковано 22 кві 2011
- WARNING: One unit has been found to have been dangerously mis-wired:
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Dave reviews one of the cheapest hot air rework stations on the market, the Atten Instruments AT858D+ how does it stack up?
Also known as the Saike 858D+
Looks like it's designed for the Asian market only?
www.atten.com.cn/search.aspx?p... - Наука та технологія
"How tough are you"
"How tough am ?! I removed an IC chip"
"So"
"Using a soldering iron"
"My apologies, you may enter"
i've done it multiple times when I had no soldering station xD
Though this is not a item I am looking into purchasing, just listening to Dave give details about it makes me feel more educated and aware of what to look for on another device. Thanks Dave, you make a difference in this world.
Just used one to replace a HDMI port on a PS4. Great unit! Great video!
@leosedf Sure, if you are doing advanced professional reworking you'd get a proper pre-heater, advanced tips for the exact part you are removing, better airflow etc. But for general everyday use this unit is perfectly capable.
That board in the video is fully lead free, worked just fine.
Anyone else being recommended this 9 years late 🤣
I just bough one ripoff version of this based on this video. 42€ delivered :) I have to open it up and see if it has similar construction
Did you get one already? From what I have seen about the knock-offs is that they have some wiring issues. The live (hot) isn't going through the fuse like it should. They have it wired (maybe not on all of them) so that the neutral is going through the fuse and that leaves a live going to the circuit and that could be dangerous. See this video to see where this guy took one apart and check it all out. ua-cam.com/video/WPy9XYGDmWQ/v-deo.html I'm going to get one and I'm going to check it out and make sure it's safe before I use it. I bought a 937D+ soldering station and watch a similar video on it where someone took it apart and it too had issues, especially with the ground not being connected right. I fixed the slight issues with it and it is working great. I just wished I could switch the temp to F instead of C.
haha, I am using it from over a year time, just wanted to find a review to recommend it to friend of mine.
Nope 11 years
Nope 12 years
I have already commented on the ATTEN 8586. I had a faulty Dell D630 Laptop. Recently the device would freeze and give nasty vertical discoloured lines through out on Boot. Got quickly worse and worse, first failing after an hour of use. I read that the nVidia Graphics card is either faulty, or the Heat Sink is compromised or perhaps it needs a Reflow. Tried the clean and repaste on the Heat Sink. Not fixed. Applied the ATTEN 8586 Reflow after briefly testing it removing some SMD devices on a scrap board to get a feel for the capacity of the device. I used some old Hard Disk-Drive Discs to place a barrier around the nVidia chip and gave it a buzz at near full heat for about 70 seconds. Allowed to cool and I am fixed. This was a dramatic change from near useless Dell to fully working. Thanks EEV for excellent tips on the Reflow process. You have upgraded my old Weller soldering skills developed on Playmaster amplifier kits from the 70's!
Thanks for your review. Still available in 2018.
I would never have bought anything for that price even for hobby use. You saved me a lot of money.
If someone is buying this, too: There is something to do before plugging it in in this price range.
Make sure, everything is grounded and all connections are tight. And always replace the mains fuse.
Just do your own quality control.
Amazing review! Thank you so much for all the details, tips and the demonstration! Keep up the good work!
What a truly lovely channel and a brilliantly light hearted and yet devastatingly informative video. Watching this hyped me with enough confidence buy one and have a go at fixing both my own and my good lady Wife's tablets (dodgy card reader and faulty USB socket). Result - two working, good-as-new tablets and exactly like you say - Bob's your Uncle!
I know this video was published ages ago, but it's still very relevant. Many thanks!
I know its Too late . But at 9:25 the butchered part are screw holds of the fan. they were removed to make it fit.
Were it me, i probably would have taken some adhesive foil tape and covered the holes.
@@stanburton6224 Yeah, I am not saying I did it. Just saying they did it that way. Where it up to me too I would have got proper BOM part or in fact remolded the gun as this is an additional step that can cause issues and loss of part (destroyed fan etc).
Also I did buy this Hot air station, am a hobbyist so do not use it as often as a professional will. but till now it has been working fine. It has seen over 15 hours of overall usage in 3 years by me.
I bought a cheap Yihua 858D rework station and had to change the fan. Mine didn't have screw holds or butchered parts. I don't know why but I couldn't find the same so I bought a generic blower and used my dremel aswell...
I'd really like to see what temperature the handle gets up to if you patch those holes in the fan case. Maybe they were put there to provide some active cooling for your hand.
@netcore2k Yeah, not sure what the deal is with the model not being on their site, they only have the older Hakko look-alike units. I now note it only seems to be sold in 240V version? Latest PDF catalog on their site appears to be 2009?
@enginerdy The ESD mat I'm using is a special one that can survive high temperature and direct soldering iron contact.
Thanks for the comprehensive review, it directly contributed to me buying one from a local supplier. I have found mine to be just as in your review. ATTEN should pay you a royalty.
Louis Rossmann should try to do a board repair with this.
I just purchased a variant of this one.... but yes, if Louis did a review, that would be great. For most hobbyists like myself, I can't justify spending $700+ on air and iron workstations.
Personally i spent 1500+ today euro/dollars in the year 1997 to buy a weller station for solder sucking and hot air pencil.And took separately for 250 euro the adjustable soldering iron itself.
I have the Yihua 858D version, in fact got two of them for a total of $100 bucks (it was cheap enough to have a spare;)
There are two issue I've noticed with these devices. One, when changing temperature often, it's inconvenient holding the digital button down till it reaches the desired number. They should have used the same analog knob like for the fan speed (but still connected to the digital readout). Two, the Reed switch is only on one side of the handle, so if you lay it back the wrong way it won't turn the heater off. Other than that, they work like a champ.
Nice teardown!
Thanks for the review ... I'm starting to get into some SMD development and checked into affordable hobby-quality devices ... the 858 seems to be available under at least half a dozen brand names, at least on Amazon.de as well as on the typical Chinese online stores ... assume they are pretty much identical ...
Looks great for the money, wondering if I should opt for their pump version over the fan type?
It is quite funny to compare this review with the Yihua $16 Hakko clone soldering station review. Dave, i love ya brother, but you do need to step back a bit and remember that not everybody has the money to spend on high quality tools and test equipment. Some of us have this bad addiction to eating. Im actually quite pleased how much more forgiving you were in this review, compared to the soldering station one.
@jeriellsworth Good point. Same thing with a soldering iron too, but I guess they are usually better supported in the holder.
These things I only tend to leave on when actually using them, which isn't very often. YMMV.
I ordered a unit on ebay few minutes ago. Thank you for this nice review, Dave.
@Bracerjack The chips are designed to survive a certain temperature for a certain time. So they usually survive.
Really not much different to reflow soldering temps.
I have a proper BGA rework station but sometimes these smaller things just work better as you don't have to protect the other components and it's not such a hassle to setup
It's worth checking the connection from the earth wire of the mains cable goes anywhere since NONE of the ones that I have seen that are appearing in the UK have had any connection to the front, rear, and enclose metalwork. They all failed PAT testing and had to be modified with separate bonded earthing added.
Can you give details on how to do this please?
Amir Khan
In all honesty if you do not know how to do this modification without being told how then this is NOT a modification you should even consider attempting as your life may depend on you getting it correct
The modification requires that you have a working knowledge of basic electronic safety and can use test meters to measure and check earth continutity. If you don't have this knowledge then DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY WORK ON ANY MAINS POWER CABLING.
koyaanisqatsiuk
There was another reply which NOW appears to have now been removed but to comment on that, this modification does NOT involve the moving of a wire from the fuse holder IN ANY WAY WHATSOEVER!!!. The earth modification does not involve the fuse holder - period.
koyaanisqatsiuk what?...
"It's worth checking the connection from the earth wire of the mains cable goes anywhere since NONE of the ones that I have seen that are appearing in the UK have had any connection to the front, rear, and enclose metalwork."
LOL...well i'll just follow that video, he does the fuse mod AND the earth mod.
Amir Khan That is your choice but I merely pointed out that every one of these I have had pass through my hands has had NO earth connection from the IEC to ANY exposed (ie case/front/etc) metal work.
I have come across none of the mains 'live wire' mis-wirings mentioned, only missing safety earth wiring.
That is why I was commissioned by a UK importer to see that all of these were modified and then tested to comply with UK PAT recommendations afterwards. Before then, NONE of them passed as there were no earth connections to the case - a legal UK requirement.
Thanks for the review and loved the way how you made the video. Keep the job bro ;-)
just got the atten 852d, first thing i do is measuring conductivity between plug and iron/airgun. it was like 55 euros new.
I just got the Zeny brand version of this for only $32.00 and free shipping, virtually identical inside and so far it works great. The blower inside mine has an updated smooth casing with nothing broken off to make it fit . The replacement heat guns are readily available online for around $12.00.
@leosedf Yes. As always, it's horses for courses. You trade off some thermal capacity for lower noise, cost, and portability.
This is one one the best reviews I have seen. Thanks
@randomgarfield Yeah, the big bench units with the pumps are pretty darn loud, really quite annoying in a quiet lab.
Thank you David! I pushed the trigger for the same unit off eBay after viewing this incredible review, and it only cost me $58 (delivered), great!
I own one of theese. It works really great and it can be compared to higher priced brands. I actually love the handle with built in fan. It is simple, lightweight and very useful. The noise is low, It doesn't bother me when I'm using it. Definitely worth buying.
Thanks for the review, had seen on Ebay and came to UA-cam to see if there was and info on it, great review so I went ahead and ordered one.
@fourier2020 Yeah, I something clearly needed trimming off on either side. Maybe mounting supports or something? Cheaper to do that than order a custom version without the extra bits?
I wonder how they drive the display. Numbers with fewer segments are clearly brighter. Seems easy to prevent without increasing cost.
I bought an ATTEN 8586 which includes a Soldering Iron. Based on the cautions on wiring I observed the following.
1. Wiring standard similar to this blog. Active and Neutral are isolated via rear switch.
2. An additional earth lug has been added to sandwich between the rear metal plate and main chassis. Care is needed to include this in re-assembly.
3. Nice bits of Heat Shrink on the active and neutral wires on the rear switch but no heat applied to shrink them!
4. Rear switch and IEC socket is additionally glued to help prevent accidental dislodging during power cable removal.
5. There is a good English user manual provided.
I can upload some pics if interested. All in all a fairly good build. Standard Lab safety caveats still apply.
A fine presentation. I do enjoy your teardowns and liked the demo. I would have loved to see you re-install the BGA, though :)
@netcore2k I just added a link the the main Chinese Atten site which has it when you search, so genuine product, but possibly designed for the Asian market only? The English link takes you to the attenelectronics site which does not list it.
Thanks :) Bought one now because of the review ...
To what temeperature cools the heater before you go into sleep mode?
Very good review and soldering rework tool.
Thanks for the review! I have been looking for one of these for a few weeks now and was actually about to buy an Aoyue 968, but for this price it's absolutely unbeatable. Exactly because of the noise I was hesitant to buy the Aoyue. And yeah, the price i paid for the 858D now: €42.34 (that's 57.33 AUD). Excellent value for money.
Pro tip: put something down with a high heat resistance, or something that will indicate before it starts scorching (like heavy poster paper). After I got a brand new ESD workbench, the first thing I did was blister the surface while trying to remove a big SMD linear regulator with hot air. Not a huge deal, but wasn't super happy about it!
I just bought one of these. I wonder how it would fare in a eevblog review today. @eevblog you should do re-reviews.
Bought this quite some months ago now because of this video and am incredibly satisfied with it.
I got a combo one, hot air and soldering iron in one ... late 2017 ... seems quite a timeless design
I just received mine. I am really happy with it. I was able to remove small smd and big ones with many legs (more than 80 for the bigest i tried). Impresive.
Some months ago I tried the same with a iron, a pump... Without success. I tried with desoldering "wire" and it was ok but quite difficult. With this air gun, it was very easy ! REALLY EASY !
So thank you again for this review Dave. ;-)
I bought one much like this of eBay just recently to replace a 1.20MM 2 pin molex that popped off during a hard drive upgrade on my 2010 Mac Mini. I don't think it got soldered well in the first place, but it's so tiny that our electronics repair guy said he thought his iron was far too big at the tip to do it, that and how the pads on the part itself are under it much like this, we concluded the air gun is the only real good way to go. I have it now, its just like yours, same model, 858D+, the + is the difference I think, there's a connector I can disconnect the gun cable from the box, but other than that mine is traded Youyue, but the control panel is otherwise the same. Being in the US mine is also a 120V model. As soon as I get some solder paste to dab onto the the pads I'm going to give it a try. Any suggestions or recommendations before I do this? I plan on learning a lot more about repairing, more specifically diagnosing problems so that I can repair it, in electronics. I can work on almost anything mechanical, but I don't know as much when it comes to electronics, but I want to.
One of the advantages of having the fan in the handle as the air source, is that you no longer need a permanently attached air hose. It's a pity Atten didn't fit a removable plug like most of the Kada (et al) units. It's great having a nice clean workbench with the handle stored away somewhere.
Thumbs up for having an IEC socket. My Kada station didn't have one so I fitted one myself.
Thank you for nice test. I just got one from market and waiting for delivery, i was curious how it would work. But as i can see its promising for the price.
@detectiveinspekta Those attachments are nice, but you need one for every size device you work with. You can also get similar attachments for soldering irons.
IN a professional lab the hot air rework station had a base plate that blasted the board with heat from underneath to preheat the section of the board with heat and then you hit it with hot air from above. Made surface mount rework ridiculously easy.
@EEVblog Dave, I thought the fan holes were deliberate to help rid the hand piece from excess heat when used in the vertical position to prevent the cord from melting and shorting out. But what do I know?
Yes, this is an excellent tool from China, for a very reasonable price. Couple of points I'd note is that mine was way off cal at the low end, being more like 150C when set to 100C. This can matter when you're heat-shrinking as other plastic can be melted. Other thing is, there doesn't appear to be any overheat cutout, so things could get a mite hazardous (like, hot enough to set fire to something) if the temp controller were to fail. Therefore I'd advise not leaving it switched on unattended. I was wondering about fitting a thermal fuse.
Nice review Dave! Would you happen to know if the 8858 hot air station (with adaptor "brick") is just as good as this model ? I'm trying to decide between the two 🤔
I also bought this mini hot air station a few months ago and it has never been used before. I turn on and starting clearly from the minimum I immediately see smoke .... . The little fan they inserted really sucks and then as well as it is unusable . Wow and now how do I desolder the smd components?
19:00 how did they manage to solder those RGB LEDs commercially? is the solderpaste so sticky? or do they use foam padding?
@EEVblog
Jups, got an 850D with such a loud pump, paid double for that, and I can't use it in the evening because my kid sleeps in the next room.
So cheers for this review.
The 858 is now on my shopping list :)
Now i have too this, well a clone, solder station :)
Take it apart to check if somthing wrong with the Ground Connection etc.... was AOK and did my first go with Hot Air deSolder with ah Dimm Ram module....it worked wonderful, but im a newbie in soldering and not really sure how mutch heat the IC and PCB can Take without damage. Ife seen how PCB's got soldered in a Reflow oven .... i think the heat is OK but the IC and PCB was Reaaaaly Hot but touchable afte few seconds.....
Is there a rough rule of thumb ?
I wonder if the holes in the fan case provide cooling for the handle or maybe they deliberately reduce the airflow through the nozzle?
I just took my hot air gun apart. Identical to Dave's BUT those rough holes shouldn't be there. Get something to seal them, Dave! Great Blog. Thanks, Dave. You should be awarded an O.B.E. - but we don't have an Empire any more!
Hello. Thanks for all your reviews and information, I watch all your stuff. These are down to about 30 now, and today Ebay had a 15% off code that got it a bit cheaper. I was looking for a budget way to do shrink tubing for projects and this is perfect! Your last statement was it remains to be seen how it holds up. Any update on how it's done? Thanks again! -Jeff
I got one bakku 858d+ 5 years by now
Fits perfectly for regular basys
Dave, greetings from Chile.
Dave, I have a problem with mine, I did move the trimmer for calibrate and is giving me the error like if the coil is broke, but I don't think so because this happens in the moment that I move the trimmer. How you have more experience, what do you think it could be.
I did buy it when I saw this video.
I hope you can help me.
Thanks
I just received the AT8586 today and it seems pretty nice. I haven't soldered anything yet but it seems to function fine. I might do a small review on it.
Just bought it as per your review. They should give you a kick-back!
Thanks Dave
Nice to see you show some appreciation even of the 'one hung lo' stuff. ;)
So the reed switch will only work if the heat gun is placed in the holder with the reed switch facing down?
So does this heat want need to be marked to indicate the proper placement in the holder or does a second reed switch in parallel need to be fitted opposite the current one?
Really enjoyed this video, great work. I have been wanting to move into the world of 'reflow' and this video has driven me to make the purchase . . . .unit I on it's way and looking forward to a little fun practice.
Thanx bud.
Don't forget to get a bottle of 'No Clean' Liquid Flux for reflow jobs.
@yanava That's because it is the same board...
its pretty cool: I think I recognized the white moc 3023 optotriac next to the actual triac.
But one stupid question: why did they not use smd resistors on the bottom side? would that not be cheaper in production?
Meanwhile there is an improved version - the Atten 8800D. 800 watts and an LCD with an indicator how much power the heater draws. The air speed is set using a jog dial and you can store three profiles with heat and air speed together. In fact the same features like "big" stations just in a smaller form factor and the same hand piece as the old 885D.
Have had mine about 2 years now and have had dam much use of it and still works like it was new, way cheaper a year after this review though.
Can these rework station be used for QFN package soldering? Kindly advice.
Thanks dave, just a quick question, are these chips going to withstand this heat?
Your test has confirmed that it will do the job on my iPad mini Touch FPC socket, that some local workshop wanted a £100 when the iPad mini 3 cost me £73. I could see that there was no way my small pencil iron would replace it. So thanks for your enthusiasm for this product.
Hi Dave,
After watching your preview of the Atten 858D Hot Air Rework Review I have orderd one my self off ebay here in the UK looks fantastic.
will the Zeny 858D work as well ?
Have you tried there duel unit hot air and soldering iron, I would love your option
@lordchavo I would get too excited about a cheap soldering iron combo. Tips can be problematic. Much better off getting an $80 Hakko, and more versatile with two separate units.
Got my Yihua version (110v, hard wired). Everything else is the same.....except the squirrel cage fan in the handle on mine is untouched and wiring is much cleaner than Dave's example.
Only question I have is, what the hell is that stick and wire thingy that came with this thing? is it for holding parts down or?
Those holes on the fan are not for air/pressure related stuff: they just simply chopped the original holder parts of the fan (it had two plastic tabs with holes to secure the fan) and simply did a bad job. Nice little stuff, anyway, thanks for the review!
@LinuxGalore They have dropped in price on ebay since I bought it over a month ago. I have not seen on one that cheap. What about postage to Auastralia?
Should I be worried about the high heat damaging components that need to be taken off but still might be good, or even neighboring components?
@Artemisgoldfish Yeah, I can imagine the heater life would be improved if you let it cool down slowly.
Can anyone explain to me why there are so many identical units with the same model number all sold by different companies? That's very confusing to me. Is it like an open source project that they're copying or something?
Nice thing, will get one.
Can you please do a video with opinions and thoughts on BGA rework?
Wicked review Dave, thanks man
I already scrolled to the comment box after you popped the first two chips off with a screwdriver(?) but then decided to watch the end first. Tweezers are much better if you plan to use either the component (you can pull them off vertically instead of lifting them from one side) or the board (slip with the screwdriver, scratch through a trace) afterwards.
@lordchavo The Saike 858D+ has a 110V version.
Great review. Now i´m considering buying one myself.
How will these work when desoldering through hole components like 5-10pin TO-220, bigger DIP packages etc? Will it be a problem heating up an area that big? I have loads of through hole boards and I'm looking for an efficient way to desolder all of the components, using the soldering iron is hard and tedious.
@EEVblog True, it's a neat station some friends have it.
If you have a large lead free board with big ground planes you will need a preheater for sure. For small things it's a nice and cheap station, i like it. It's also more "portable" than the bigger stations.
I have used a tip before with 4 slots that spread the air only on the pins. Pretty nifty. I'v always been scared though of heating boards up to hot temperatures. How would one know how much it could take.
Very strange about those fan holes!
I typed the number on the fan into google, and the few images that came up showed radial blower fans with mounting lugs in the same places the holes in your fan are, so it looks like they were ground off to make it fit the case.
bought this tool and what can i say, it works very fine !!! for about € 60 include shipping and tax an incredibble nice tool. soldering desoldering ... very nice, perfect results, look as prefessional soldered ... amazing
I use mine daily, been a year now. Great quality. Although with a bga rework station this used a lot less.
Can you help me?
I can't know what is better?
Hot Air Rework with compressor or fan?
And there are replacement handles for about $12. This seems like one of the universally adored designs so even if one company dies away, all the stock can just be 'rebranded' like the 936 irons.
hi ! nice video ! can you please tell me or someone tell me how many degree to remove a back of a phone to replace the battery or to use for phone repairs ?
You should test it on the top of range graphic cards trying to desolder and resolder the bunch of mosfets to check its efficiency.The entire pcb is acting like a large copper heat sinker and it needs a really powerful hot air torch to work them.