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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Review, teardown, and testing of the Rhino Tools ZD985 desoldering station on typical through-hole double sided and multi layer PCBs.
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This looks so satisfying :o
I would run around the home desolder everything all day long
+Lemon Chief *Takes new $2000 PC Dad just bought and all TV's in house*
"Ahhhhh... so satisfying."
No seriously though... some people probably have gotten addicted to desoldering things.
I took everything apart as a kid. If I only had one of these.....
eev blog
i got a lot of board with a lot of parts laying around and absolutely no use for them or the parts. but i want to desolder, just bought this thing. 109 bucks is a steal
@@FatheredPuma81 myself, i bought a desoldering pump the last week and i spent like 3 hours sucking lead hahahah
I have had this station for a couple of years now. Has not let me down.
I bought this model thanks to this review. Used it for a few months now. Reliable tips, works excellent. Use caution with the heat, it is very powerful. A cool tip i just learned for working at lower heat, desolder with your board at a 90 degree angle instead of flat so you aren't fighting gravity. Two small complaints, its a pain to fit the chamber back when cleaning, and drops the temp after 10 min. of being idle to conserve tip life.
Sir, it's use in multilayer pcb work???
@@kashirambhaipatel5102 I've used it for multilayer and single. It's still running well. Great unit.
I got one of these branded as a Duratool D00672. The main difference is that the spring inside the solder trap is just a straight spring that pushes the filter against the back with a cross shaped metal plate that seems to keep the bulk of the solder off the filter. When I first got it I popped the back open and the spring ejected everything from inside! Took me a while to work out which order they went back in. Otherwise the unit is identical inside.
How has it worked out? I see you can still buy that model.
I always chuck in steel wool in it after spring
The curly kind not hair mat type
Also I use fridge compressor and air valve
I tend to pop compressors but they free and common and worth some scrap $$££
Gives a epic punch and I'm doing tonnes of boards run compressor full on time and trigger air valve
This video very easily convinced me that I need a vacuum desoldering station.
Ian Oliver Same to me. I thought solder gun and spring sucker was good but it often was a pain in the ass on multilayer boards.
Desolder station
had it for a few years - initially put time in remaking it - but love it now.
I have had the duratool version of this for over a year and I am very pleased with it. The only problem I have is solder getting stuck at the end of the gun barrel before it goes into the tube, but you just have to give it a clean after use with a high temp.
As a result of an electronics project at school and a soldering tip which is far too big for PCB work, I have become a master at using a cheap spring loaded solder sucker reliably
When using our hakko desoldering station at work, what we do to easily get the solder out of the solder reservoir is stick our solder iron tip through the bottom of the spring and start gently tapping it on metal on an angle and let the melted solder drop out to avoid bending the spring reservoir and is much easier.
Hi Dave, I bought a Hakko 474 nearly 30 years ago and it is still going strong - and parts are still available , even though quite expensive.
One little trick you might find useful - place a small rolled up ball of steel wool in the solder collecting spring and you won't have to work with pliers to dislodge the collected solder from the conical end.
you have no idea how satisfying I feel watching this station work! I want to go with it to a dumpster and recycle everything! rofl!
me too...lol
Hakko nozel size is same this station??
You are pure entertainment to me. You need your own reality show on a national network TV channel.
This is by far the most innuendo filled EEVBlog yet! The sheer innocence of Dave's tone as he says; "where you're sucking stuff all day, spend the money and get a name brand"! Love this crazy aussie bloke!
a little trick to make emptying the solder from the spring easier and also helps make the filter last longer, is to tear off a small piece of paper towel and push it to the bottom of the spring with a pen.
You only need a piece big enough to cover the tapered area of the spring.
if you have used a hakko (we have a 474 and a 701 here) or other similar de soldering stations you will find after a few times of emptying the solder from the spring it gets harder and harder to get the blob out of the tapered area. This eliminates that problem and we haven't picked up on any noticeable suction difference with the paper fitted. And we get so much more out of our ceramic filters and the filter springs
A couple of years ago I picked up a cheap 3-in-1 station. Worked great for a while but then it stopped recognizing the soldering iron. I thought it was the iron itself that went bad so I ended up just using it for desoldering and hot-air stuff but after watching this video, I decided to finally open the thing up to see if I the problem was inside. It was and I have it working again now. Woo.
Having done salvage/repair work for a long time, I'd like to add one thing: never use you desoldering iron's tip to straighten bent pins/component leads! Heat, then use a flat blade screwdriver, then suck away! You desoldering iron tips will thank you for it! :)
Nice review, Dave. I was just writing up a shopping list yesterday and it included cable ties - now I am inspired to put them to use more creatively, as Rhino have done here! haha
I was watching EEVBlog channel as usual while looking over my new purchase of a HAKKO FR300 and this video came on! I can't wait to use this thing! Salvage all the parts!
Glad I watched. After purchasing this unit, mine didn't work either! I found one of the wires going to the pump motor had never been soldered to the motor terminal. Nice. I guess they ever test these units before shipping! LOL. Well, after fixing it the device works fine. Thanks for your review.
@ 14:00
those connectors are first unscrewed, then twisted to release the metal housing from the plastic
struggled with it myself a bit when i had to cut down and reconnect the plug after a lead went bad on an old station i was fixing.
Great to hear you intend to keep trying to fix the DSA. It's nice to have a good repair video every now and then
i get the feeling that half-way along the video where the tool is working, dave had fun harvesting those parts. now i want one of these desoldering tools.
I used a vacuum desoldering station back in the 80's.. It had a glass tube (a buck or two) ... cotton plugs for the tube, a controlled temp hand held (not gun shaped.)-- and so on.. Great tool with almost identical sound. Made in the US, because that was well before the move of production to china.. Was a LOT smaller as well. Super reliable.. Did rework on 4 and 6 layer boards with it regularly... I had been looking for something similar now that I'm retired.. that may be something to buy this year...
Impressed with the way it takes all the solder off, even from through-hole pads. I've seen tools costing an awful lot more that couldn't get that kind of clean-as-a-whistle result even on one-sided pads. Larger nozzle could be useful though. Reckon this is going on my shopping list. Will check inside for shoddy construction of course!
You can always use a different holder. I have finally got round t ordering one, I restore vintage computers and salvage most of my parts so I have needed one for years.
Great video, entertaining as always :D For anyone in the UK etc this unit seems to be available as Duratool D00672 Desoldering Station for about 80 quid or so.
If you grease an O ring, use only silicone grease - oily stuff eats the o-ring
Bit late to this party, but just got this and it's bloody good for about 3 joints and then the mechanism at the back of the glass tube for the vacuum pipe just jammed open and I can't wait to have to fix it 🙃
One of my buddies bought me one of these in exchange for some auto work, and they are indeed cheap.
I've had a few problems with mine, with the most irritating being that the gun nozzle clogs constantly. I can only use it for about 3-4 suction cycles before the back of the tube inside the collection chamber completely clogs. The unclog sticks it comes with are too flexible to remove the clog alone so I have to end up precariously balancing a soldering iron in one hand, this gun in the other and somehow push the unclogging stick down the nozzle at the same time to unclog it.
But the problem is that it doesn't remove all of the solder from the tube so the process starts all over again with solder buildup at the back of the tube. If they had put a heating element through the length of the tube so the back also was hot enough to keep solder melted then it wouldn't clog.
The other issue with mine is the temperature setting glitches. I have mine set to display Fahrenheit, but after probably a half hour of usage, it will revert back to Celsius. This wouldn't be a problem if it used the same temperature. I keep mine at about 536F and it should revert to 280C, but it drops down to like 160C or about 320F which is too cool to melt the annoying ROHS solder. I have to press the C/F conversion button a few times and it will heat back up to the proper temperature, but it's still annoying it happens.
If you don't expect miracles and just need something for occasional projects then this station works alright if you're on the cheap.
Just a followup after using this desoldering station for awhile.
To prevent the gun from clogging up, you'll need to keep the gun temperature above 330C. I haven't found a fix for the temperature automatically reducing to 200C, but I assume it's an aggressive measure to save the heating element in the gun.
Haha :) I can recognize that build quality! Bought Zhongdi ZD-939L hot air rework station (same as Rhino) couple of weeks ago and luckily took it apart before first use. All the plastic PCB holders was cracked and 230Vac mains board floated freely inside the case. But after all, works great after a little repair.
thanks for actually testing it in this video, and not doing an exclusive "unboxing" or something first and letting us wait to see it in action :)
Seams like a decent product to me, big fan of your videos :)
I got a cheap soldering station with 2 spare heating elements and about 20 spare tips all together so I wouldn't have to worry about parts for a few years. A few years later now and I can't find anything for it, but I still have my own spare parts. :)
that brings back memories, I purchased a very similar one years ago and it was not heating up. Brought back, they opened it and found the same loose cable. Got another one and it was resetting when pump was running! LOL!
That looks quite good for the money. I also no longer had a desoldering station (always used the company one) so bought a Den-On SC-7000Z a number of years ago. It works really well, is self-contained, and isn't much bigger than this station hand piece.
That’s an awesome piece of gear haha... love it... I bought an LG linear power supply many years ago that I had to repair right out the box, to its credit though it’s still working after being abused for 15 to 20 years...
I used to have a similar tool back in the 90's (footswitch for vacuum) and it really was a joy to use... hmmm I don't do a lot of desoldering but... tempted...
The company I work for provided me with a Pace ST115 desoldering station. I think it works really good. The build is all metal and overall well done. I think I prefer the handle of the Pace over the pistol grip style others make. I did a search for pricing once and found that particular model is around $800 US. Not cheap, but worth it if you get into a lot of repairs like I do at my job.
They sell these everywhere, I think.
I used to do repair and rework for a time (xx years back) and we had these massive ERSA stations (about the size of a Midi-Tower-PC), which were great and had a soldering iron, desoldering iron (not gun-shaped, but inline) and some heated tweezers for SMDs.
Worked excellent and saw a lot of use.
So, as I wanted something similar, though not as expensive, for myself and I found the ZD-whatevers on the web, i ordered a whole bunch of the stuff: a combined soldering/desoldering station, a hot air station, some SMD-Tweezers and a whole lot of spares (you can even get spare heaters).
The soldering/desoldering station is a bit flimsy, when you open it up, but it worked and worked pretty well for the work I've done with it. The hot air station (with different nozzles) works great, too. I've even used it for heating plastic for bending :-)
I haven't tried the tweezers yet, but I'll have a go at it soon. It's not a station, just more or less two soldering irons with a hinge and a spring. We'll see...
Anyway, this stuff isn't bad for infrequent home use, so far.
I have a hot air and soldering iron combo, which looks just like your hot air blower in terms of case and aesthetics. Just the other day, the hot air gun's temp sensor went whack and it lit up red hot and melted through the handle a tad. It was crazy.
I have the Aoyue 474A++ which was under 100 GBP here in the UK. When it works, it works well, I do computer repairs (including vintage computers), so I do quite a few through hole dip packages. The only problem is the tips seem to disintegrate quite quickly, then end breaks away and you no longer get a decent seal. I am now having trouble locating replacements.
Varies depending on the type of pump.
Vacuum cleaners use a centrifugal pump, and blocking the intake means that the vanes are spinning in less dense air, so there is less resistance to their movement. Hence torque goes down, the motor speeds up, and the current reduces.
A piston (or diaphragm) pump is a positive displacement pump. Block the inlet, and the piston is pulling against a vacuum, so the load goes up. Think about engine braking. Or block the inlet to a bike pump and extend it.
Oh stop. We can tell you like it. You just don't wanna admit it.
+alex tworkowski If you give him coffee his speech frequency becomes ultrasonic.
+BikingMNViking ...and here I thought it was because I'm watching at 1.5x speed.
Inorite! I was just about to say, it totally looked like someone was having fun!
That made me laugh a lot! :-)
Any time someone desolders a bloody Utilux socket from a multilayer PCB for the fun of it, you know they love the desoldering tool. ;)
Just bought a Aoyue 701A combo soldering iron and solder sucker gun for 189$ Have used the heck out of it and so far so good
Sometimes cheap pieces of crap work very well, they just don't last very long. That's why cheap and SERVICEABLE are a win for me, lol! ;)
That's right, spare parts cost is a plus on this products.
I have a Hakko 808 desoldering gun and each nozzle cost 15 or 20 dollars, heating element is over 70 dollars instead 5 dollars for each nozzle or 20 dollars for the heating element on chinese.
Cheers.
When I was doing a lot of this stuff, we used Royel brand irons and desoldering tools
Have the same product with another brand. Works fine at first, but if you use it much it will end up clogging even if you clean it. The tip heats, but the solder can cool in the tube on the way to the chamber, either because it doesn't heat or doesn't get hot enough. Ended up getting a Hakko.
Thank you Dave for the VERY informative video on this type of budget device!! I have had to use my hand pump tool for so long and it is tedious work. I have been looking for something like this but do not have the coin to throw out for a Hakko. I wish I did, because I love my Hakko tools and soldering station. But I'm not a salvage beast so cannot warrant the cost of a Hakko. This gives me an option. Maybe some home-made fixes to the design (other than out-of-the-box repairs lol) like the stand. The hand unit seal. Etc. THANKS!
23:50 you could use a soldering iron to apply some extra heat for pads like that. Also for 26:00
17:55 "I see the problem, look at that"
13:30 -> the cable is still connected
13:45 -> pulling the cable ... the cable detach itself
Shitty quality proved.
If the cable was still connected why didn't it work? Why was he even looking?
Found a VERY similar unit under part number AT-915ESD. The control layout is different on the front panel but the enclosure & gun look identical.
Dave, I know its a bit late, but, that multi pin DIN type connector for the wires to the gun from the front panel, twists a little after you remove that small screw.
Those plugs are commonly used for Mic connectors on transceiver equipment.
All the hams were probably screaming at you to "Give it a slight twist Dave".
Congrats for the new toy, Dave!
Hi,
Well I did most of my time in the RAAF using a ROYAL made in Australia de-soldering station . When I pulled the pin with the RAAF in 1992 I bought a Royal de-soldering and soldering station for $1200 which lasted about 5-7 years then the gun fell to bits and as ROYAL were out of business then that was the end of that.
I bought a ZD985 and later several ZD917's ,3 in total I think it was, these are de-soldering & soldering stations. My problems with them were one switchmode power supply going U/S under warranty, several de-soldering iron barrels blocking internally due to the barrel collapsing, some going o/c in the heating element, this happened with the soldering irons too.
The main supplier is Radio Parts in Melbourne, they even supply Rhino Tools. The tips get stuck in the barrels too, graphite may work ? I have destroyed a couple of irons trying to get the tips out.
At present I am waiting on spare parts to repair some de-soldering guns and a couple of spare irons, irons are so cheap they are not worth repairing. I may have caused the desoldering barrel collapsing myself as it doesn't seem to pay keeping the desoldering station on too high a temperature, 350 deg seems to be max but 300 would be better in standby.
By the way the ROYAL wasn't made that well either. I am at present semi retired having started in the trade in 1965 at BHP Newcastle, joined RAAF in 1972 and started repairing camcorders in 2000. The RAAF used to run a NASA standard soldering and de-soldering techniques course of 3 months full time as part of the Radio Trades course. I taught electronics at the RAAF School of Radio way back from 1987-1990.
For the price the soldering and de-soldering station ZD917 isn't bad value for money but it isn't built very well so needs to be treated with care. At the end of the days work, tips out of the soldering iron and clean up and remove solder from the de-soldering iron chamber. Also stick cleaning rods whilst still hot down the desoldering barrel to make sure it's clear of removed solder. You can leave the desoldering tip on.
It's not really meant for professional work but if you don't do that much repair work it would suffice.
Awesome Dave thanks for the review. I think I may give it a go. I need some light use of a desolder gun and this looks like a good cheap unit that will work.
just got an 858d air station,it came with one wire detached for the inductance turn off,amazing that these factories don't even test for 2 minutes the final product,otherwise it would be all ok.
I've been using soldering tools for 30 years. I know what is junk and what is not. The reputable brand names last, the cheap junk usually doesn't. That's a fact. That is precisely why companies and products get a reputation, because their products have proven themselves long term in the industry.
Bullshit that wire failed because I opened it, it was a BAD solder joint, it would have failed in time with the vibration.
The problem with china made stuff is there is NO quality control at the factory. The customer is the QC. If you get an item and it is DOA or fails, they'll just give you another one because on the scale of failure rates it's cheaper to do that than pay 20 people to sit at benches testing every unit they make.
I have had a ZD929 soldering station for over 10 years now. With a decent tip it's a good tool for the hobbyist on a budget. Not great, but it gets the job done. It says "Ningbo Zhondi Industries & trade co. ltd." on the bottom.
Zongdi make different models for 220V and 110V. Must be some reason for it, maybe optimisation of the efficiency or something?
hey dave. i have the ZD917 (told uses same desoldering gun as ZD985) and parts are also avaliable from RPG fairly cheap as well, only problem i've had with this desolding station is when doing a few chips at a time the spring heats up fairly quik. however if i keep it clean and let spring cool often seems to work just fine
btw the reason they have cable tied the motor thing on the back is that they use the same assembly without it in a different case as a normal tempco solder station (e.g. zd 931)
+Dennis Lubert Wow good call on that, just looked it up, it's the same damn unit, LCD and all!
Yes - I have a Hakko 808 and it was about $200. However, I find that it doesn't work all that well. It works well for true single-sided PCBs but plated-thru-hole seems to be a problem. It usually doesn't manage to melt the solder all the way through the hole. Have you had that problem, too?
I saw a clone of that in a local store for 120, it's a ZD-8915. The case front is more solid, the gun holder is independent, and the gun spring is bigger. Other than that, they're basically the same. So obviously, I went with a cheaper 2 in 1 desoldering gun with a manual pump for only 12 bucks.
Hi Dave, nice video - thank you!
Funny to see that i had two of exact that boards out of two old UPS.
And: i desoldered and kept almost the same parts as you do - the MOSFETs are really nice: 60V, 50A and fairly low input capacitance for its performance.
Oh, maybe you could do a blog about input capacitence / gate charge of MOSFETs vs. fast switching applications.
I am currently working on a switch-mode power-supply using these MOSFETs, driven by a dsPIC with SMPS-PWM and an LM5104.
Cheers!
10:25 It doesn't work on both sides because it's basically a slimmed down version of their rework station (ZD-917), which has a soldering iron on that side, and it's the same part in both. I think.
Whichever tip you like the least you may be able to drill out to 2.5 mm or whatever if you want to do a bunch of heatsinks?
Funny, seems to be exactly the same as my unbranded "Duratool" desoldering station bought from Farnell, the gun is the same and the unit seems to have the same components all the way down to the crap LCD, mine has a completely different casing and proper mains earth though.
A friend had his SMPS break in one of these, if that happens to you it's most likely the SMPS controller chip according to the local reseller. They sent him a new controller and his works again.
Just for info. I am in the UK and found a very similar item on ebay with the ZD 915 model number. Seems to be almost the same item and has a better/stronger stand. I have one and it performs just as well as this one but seems to heat up a bit faster. Only drawback is that it has quite a noisy fan.
Great review as always. Just a point worth noting, having a floating ground is not a bad thing, as long as it shuts down the current to the heating element should there be a insulation failure. Having a 'real ground' may cause a unwanted short on the component being worked on, e.g. on board batteries and charged caps etc, which could, if a real ground was evident, cause component failure. Thanks again for the review..
those plugs are the same as radio microphone plugs, you undo the little screw and then push in and twist the black end(bayonet style).
Dave, put wire strands in the back of the spring for easy solder removal, or some brass wool from a solder sponge.
I've seen units where the spring was so precisely wound it formed a seal once solder blocked the end, sometimes it is necessary to slightly deform the spring.
You'll also want an extra long drill to drill it out when clogged.
We use several ZD917 for a couple of years now at work (development not production), and it beats the pro units like DENON hands down.
It is quite interesting to see how these designs evolved over time and continue to be manufactured, mostly by Chinese brands today. One improvement over this design we see today is the presence of a diffuser steel plate to protect the ceramic filter. It was interesting to see how the solder splutter adhered to the top layer of the filter and he had to peel a layer off. This would not happen in the slightly improved versions of this comment.
Like your video a lot ,for this test it would have bin fun to see you try to remove led on a few extremely bent pins to see what it would have done to , keep the videos up they are very informing and professional with a touch of humour that you put in them to.. ...
Hakko 808 is $200 shipped from Amazon in the US. I like it simply because it doesn't take up desk space.
This thing is DANGEROUS! If the temperature readout fails, the station enters a positive feedback loops that keeps on heating the gun until it glows red hot. It happened to mine; the metal has turned a blue color.
This happened to mine as well, this is a cheap crappy de-soldering station.
Good observation thanks for the warning .
or you know replace the sensor with a resistor and put a switch on the vcc in
@@gjoreajtovGamingTV more info on this?
I use mine every day. On the plus side, it's cheap, the nozzles and filters are cheap. On the down-side, the nozzles dont last long. They burn from the inside out and lose their thermal capacity. Old joints require flux to reflow the soder and the fumes from the flux will block the filter easily. And if a component leg breaks off inside the nozzle it can weld inside and then the element is trashed because you cant get it out. If you forget to empty the tube it will build up and jam the tube into the handpiece and if you prise it out it breaks.
... looks far better than I expect, but you're more patient than I.
As my skills seem to be mainly in repairing stuff, I am looking to get something like this... maybe when I've got some spare money. Not sure it would be exactly one of these, though.
9:59 have any of that aluminum heat sink left over? the 25mm wide stuff? you could use two self tapping zip screws and a 40mm length and re-enforce it?
Great review, I think that the term is passes muster, not passes mustard. Private military units (Regiments in the Royal Army used to be privately raised) and militias entering into government service have to pass muster, that is that they have all their equipment and the number of troops that they are supposed to have.
it is a fantastic machine , it's a dream,i like it to see how easy it works.
I picked up the ZD 915 in the UK for £83 much the same design & build but 140w unit so a little extra oomf for those big multi layer boards.
I liked that video so much I bought one on amazon £84.84p delivered. Thanks dave I never seen one of these b4.
"Clean the shaft to get some gunk out" ~David Jones 2013
34:16 - very good idea.
The heater on mine has just blocked completely, and no amount of prodding with the cleaner will unblock it (even with the heat up to 480C).
It had lasted about two years of occasional use. Not fantastic really, but my fault for not cleaning it more often (I'd lost the prodder things until recently).
A new heater was only £10 though, so not too bad.
I dont need one often enough to justify buying one but there have been a few occasions when one of these would have spared me so much bloody frustration
You can find soldering iron and station from herebit.ly/2kPkxZ4
Might grab one knowing the quality - as I seldom use one but could have used one yesterday to remove a metal shield can in a ham radio to get at an SMT transistor which had died. This would have saved me 1/2 an hours work desoldering the can shield the old fashioned way like you mentioned at the start of the vid - soldering iron and hand held solder sucker :)
Spend time testing everything now, or only test when and if you use it? I'll pick the latter.
If you get a couple of years out of it before it breaks, I'd say worth it! Great video, thanks.
The connector doesn't pull straight out. You need to do a 1/8th turn with the black plug and then pull. You'll see a dimple in the metal on the other side that runs in an L shaped groove molded into the black plug..
Your wire broke just after 13:39. You can see it from the camera view when it points downward.
Fantastic ! Tks a million for the recommendation.
I've got a old ERSA ELS8000 and I'm very Happy to have it, cause it also has a Footswitch :-)
i just bought a analog version of this unit from MCM for $150, It has no temperature display, there is a knob you can adjust up to 800F or so - they have a led that blinks on and off when you've reached the temperature setpoint.
The iron is very similar, there is a coiled iron holder mounted on the side of the case. The case is 7" wide, 9" deep and 5" high (it weighs about 7 pounds) It's larger than the unit Dave bought and very simple inside. They have a 60w transformer that supplies 12v for the vacuum pump and 24v for this iron. It's all analog so it should be easy to fix if anything fails.
Instead of having a digital display on the unit it just has a knob to set the temperature so it's less money.
at 13:48 when you move the wires u can see it fall off the back of the plug
and this is why it's a rule of thumb to always open everything before plugging it in, never trust a cheap worker's shotty soldering xD
hypnotizing!!!!
I love watching your vids, you're very entertaining and informative :-) I was only ever tinkered in electronics and haven't built a kit for ages... I miss it while I watch your vids!
My cheap hot air station failed on the second day it was the same one he showed
was that the atten 858d?
I bought a repaired Station from ebay. When i switch it on for the second Time, it was broken =) It was another brand but the same inside. The defect can be the +5V regulator. I gave it back and buy an old Weller =)
Solder wick will treat you better than any de-soldering station I've used...
you were having way too much fun playing with this new toy you loved it and it looks like it works better than you expected not bad for a chinsey cheapo