Hey. You have to clean the bed with ipa before printing... Your fingerprints seem to be all over the sheet. Also your first lines seem to be to high (z axis really have to pinch the paper while setting it up). First heat your bed to 60c via touchscreen, then do the auto leveling again and z-axis. The best you can do is to use this g code in your slicer, it will prime the nozzle doing an half circle at the edge of the bed wich is the time to check if the line is a little squished (wich is what u want)... if not ajust it down with the touchscreen while it does the priming thing. Start code: G28 ;Home M420 S1; load bed levelling mesh G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance G1 X-98 Y0 Z0.4 F3000 ; move to arc start G3 X0 Y-98 I98 Z0.4 E40 F400 ; lay arc stripe 90deg G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance G1 E-3 G1 X0 Y-50 Z4 E-2 F3000 ; get off the bed G92 E0 End Code: M140 S0 M104 S0 ;Retract the filament G92 E1 G1 E-1 F300 G28 X0 Y0 G2 8 M84 SKE00
i have seen your update video . so forget what i said about clean the sheet :) . but the leveling with heated bed and the g codes are very good . I never print without it anymore :) however... always nice to see some q5 content (there is unfortunately a smaller community for this printer as i was hoping for when i purchased it .
I want to document my experience with the FLSUN as someone new to 3D printers. I also have not seen much about the Q5 on UA-cam or anywhere. This might be due to the Q5 being relatively new.
The PEI is slightly slick Use #000 steel wool to scuff the surface of the plate. You will better adhesion on the bed. Plus you may experiment with adding 5deg increments of heat to the bed. I am waiting on my magnetic flexplate system from Whambam. I use this on my other printers and it works great.
For those who want to do this. You should remove your Glasbett first, as it makes it harder to get an even bed, and the heating is worse. Also, before you make a new level, you should erase the old one under settings, than it shouldn't crash into the bed.
In case of the Q5 the glass is the base bed, the heater is directly attached to it. I have one and all that's needed is to rough it up with steel wool and print at 5° hotter on the bet, it works great!!! Just make sure to use painters tape of you print PETG if not you will need to replace the metal bed after printing because the PETG will fuse to the PEI sheet.
Wrong, don’t listen to this guy, u can leave the glass alone, just stick the magnetic piece on top of the glass, then put the flex plate on top of that. There’s no problem with it at all. It actually helps the printer because it evens out the level because it’s top-heavy. Don’t listen to this guy he knows nothing. I have the QQS pro and I have done this and it works perfectly. without the removal of the glass.
@@JerseyStyle7 for one you compare it to a different printer and i never said it doesn't work I just said it is worse. And which of my statements are wrong? - if you glue one not perfect flat surface to another not perfect surface you need to compensate for both. - Glass insulates so to transfer the heat from a metal heater to a glass surface to a magnetic sheet to a metal plate takes much more power than if you leave the glass out. - the further the temperature sensor is from the end surface the less accurate it is so the heating is less stable Sure, Auto leveling can compensate for most of the uneven Surface and a new pid tuning will compensate for the worse heating stability, so you only have to increase the bed temp by 5° to get a decent first layer, but that doesn't mean it's best practice or the best option in the long run. And for Bonus, if you remove the glass, you can reuse it later, if you stick something on it the glue will damage the surface. If you say I'm wrong and have 0 clue what I'm talking about at least bring solid reasons except " It WoRkS oN A dIfFeReNt PrInTeR fOr mE!!!1!1!11"
@@ized88 your wrong again 100% I never adjusted the bed temp, didn’t have to, because I know how to level, and as far as the adhesive on the magnet, your wrong again there as well, i peeled that magnet off my old machine with no problem-u gotta heat it first, wow-u really need some 3-d printing tutorials dont you🤦♂️😂🤦♂️
Good to see your doing well
Hey man. How's everything going for you?
@@parentalgaming3785 good good
As you can see I hit 60 subs
@@whigby4159 I saw, congrats.
Hey. You have to clean the bed with ipa before printing... Your fingerprints seem to be all over the sheet. Also your first lines seem to be to high (z axis really have to pinch the paper while setting it up). First heat your bed to 60c via touchscreen, then do the auto leveling again and z-axis. The best you can do is to use this g code in your slicer, it will prime the nozzle doing an half circle at the edge of the bed wich is the time to check if the line is a little squished (wich is what u want)... if not ajust it down with the touchscreen while it does the priming thing.
Start code:
G28 ;Home
M420 S1; load bed levelling mesh
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 X-98 Y0 Z0.4 F3000 ; move to arc start
G3 X0 Y-98 I98 Z0.4 E40 F400 ; lay arc stripe 90deg
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 E-3
G1 X0 Y-50 Z4 E-2 F3000 ; get off the bed
G92 E0
End Code:
M140 S0
M104 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
G2 8
M84 SKE00
i have seen your update video . so forget what i said about clean the sheet :) . but the leveling with heated bed and the g codes are very good . I never print without it anymore :) however... always nice to see some q5 content (there is unfortunately a smaller community for this printer as i was hoping for when i purchased it .
I want to document my experience with the FLSUN as someone new to 3D printers. I also have not seen much about the Q5 on UA-cam or anywhere. This might be due to the Q5 being relatively new.
The PEI is slightly slick Use #000 steel wool to scuff the surface of the plate. You will better adhesion on the bed. Plus you may experiment with adding 5deg increments of heat to the bed. I am waiting on my magnetic flexplate system from Whambam. I use this on my other printers and it works great.
Thank you for the suggestion
i just use elmer's glue stick on mine. works like a charm
PEI is the best surface in terms of adhesion, by no means is it "slick"
For those who want to do this.
You should remove your Glasbett first, as it makes it harder to get an even bed, and the heating is worse.
Also, before you make a new level, you should erase the old one under settings, than it shouldn't crash into the bed.
Good advice. Thank you for the recommendations.
In case of the Q5 the glass is the base bed, the heater is directly attached to it. I have one and all that's needed is to rough it up with steel wool and print at 5° hotter on the bet, it works great!!! Just make sure to use painters tape of you print PETG if not you will need to replace the metal bed after printing because the PETG will fuse to the PEI sheet.
Wrong, don’t listen to this guy, u can leave the glass alone, just stick the magnetic piece on top of the glass, then put the flex plate on top of that. There’s no problem with it at all. It actually helps the printer because it evens out the level because it’s top-heavy. Don’t listen to this guy he knows nothing. I have the QQS pro and I have done this and it works perfectly. without the removal of the glass.
@@JerseyStyle7 for one you compare it to a different printer and i never said it doesn't work I just said it is worse.
And which of my statements are wrong?
- if you glue one not perfect flat surface to another not perfect surface you need to compensate for both.
- Glass insulates so to transfer the heat from a metal heater to a glass surface to a magnetic sheet to a metal plate takes much more power than if you leave the glass out.
- the further the temperature sensor is from the end surface the less accurate it is so the heating is less stable
Sure, Auto leveling can compensate for most of the uneven Surface and a new pid tuning will compensate for the worse heating stability, so you only have to increase the bed temp by 5° to get a decent first layer, but that doesn't mean it's best practice or the best option in the long run.
And for Bonus, if you remove the glass, you can reuse it later, if you stick something on it the glue will damage the surface.
If you say I'm wrong and have 0 clue what I'm talking about at least bring solid reasons except " It WoRkS oN A dIfFeReNt PrInTeR fOr mE!!!1!1!11"
@@ized88 your wrong again 100% I never adjusted the bed temp, didn’t have to, because I know how to level, and as far as the adhesive on the magnet, your wrong again there as well, i peeled that magnet off my old machine with no problem-u gotta heat it first, wow-u really need some 3-d printing tutorials dont you🤦♂️😂🤦♂️
Nice video 🖖 👍
Can the auto level tool be used with the bed heated? 🤔
Yes, its preferable to have the bed and hot end heated. It gives you a more accurate reading when adjusting the Z offset.
Hey gamers itd been a while