Відео

It runs well.

She used it for nearly a year then went to the BOBOVR with a battery pack and loves it. It does work with the BOBOVR air circulation facial interface. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JNR4Y15/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We did, but we eventually ordered the BOBOVR active air circulator from Amazon. That helps alot. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099574TKJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We still own both Q5s and they get a ton of use. Good little work horse printers. We haven't added any more printers yet.

@@parentalgaming3785 Thanks so much for the reply ! :) Could you recommend any upgrades I should make immediately, extruder, heat block, heatbreak, nozzle - any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Having issues with one of my 2 unites that I can't figure out. Debating purchasing another and don't know if I should. Thanks for your time!

I forgot to mention, I found that sensitive skin baby wipes work fantastic for removing glue from the glass bed, follow it up with 70% or higher isopropyl alcohol you will have awesome adhesion. Also a little spray of 50% or less around the edge of the print after it's done helps releases the print easier with or without glue.

Holy! You really went all out on that printer. I haven't done nearly as many mods on mine. It works great as is so I'm not too worried.

The copper block worked but you have to be careful on what you use. Alot of blocks don't support the 3mm cannister on the thermistor. You don't need one but I prefer one cause those wires are small and easy to break. The Q5 hot end is from what I can tell a combination of an E3D v5 and v6 hotend the only place that I have been able to find the heat sink and heat break is Ali Express. They are super cheap so I just order them whenever just in case. I am trying to keep all of the 3D printing related videos on our other channel ua-cam.com/channels/-J9RuKdwJ43H1j_mH-zsXw.html

You can use a ~26mm all metal heatbreak for an Ender 3 on the Q5. You can get a v6 heater block with I believe it's pt100 thermistor. You can use the standard glass beads but you have to wire it to the existing pig tail. If you use the ender heat brake you have to switch to a V6 nozzle.

Yes, its preferable to have the bed and hot end heated. It gives you a more accurate reading when adjusting the Z offset.

Since this video we have gotten another Q5, 3 QQS Pros, Monoprice mini Delta V2 and 2 Elegoo Neptunes. No issues putting the PEI sheets on any of them. This was just a learning experience.

@@parentalgaming3785 that's awesome. Hows the mini delta, how fast can you get it to print?

Thanks!

With a PEI sheet installed 60c

I tried to put everything in the video in order of the steps to perform rather then my trial and error.

Ya, I gotta do that. I keep on loosing them.

Working great! The FLSun Q5 is really a rock solid printer. The ringing issues may be caused by a loose belt or not all belts at the same tightness. We have recently gotten an FLSun QQS-Pro used with that issue. We are just waiting for new belts to arrive from Amazon.

Ther are many tips on YT how to get rid of ringing ect, many are of not dry enough filament or to fast speed ect.

Thank you for the informative comment. I am not sure the exact reasons, but you are probably very close if not dead on.

TV actually has 2 ratings between TV-G and TV-14(TV-Y7 and TV-PG). So they are 2 steps ahead.

Sorry I have been off of the uploading band wagon lately. We do have a video coming up comparing the Q5 and Ender but that will probably take some time to edit. I would recommend the Q5 over the Ender.

I like the SunLu or YouSu filament. I go with PLA+. People say it is better.

@@parentalgaming3785 gotcha. I'm running regular sunlu pla but had to drop my bed temp back to 60 and up the nozzle to 215. Those other settings are looking great though. Thanks for the heads up

Thank you, I appreciate it. I don't plan to start using the printer until next month as I don't have the room right now. I will be ordering a metal extruder for sure. The other parts I want to experience the vanilla parts before upgrading. Maybe that can be a video.

@@parentalgaming3785 Any video you post is a good video to me. Support and love y'all's way.

Thank you for the support. We have alot of video ideas just not alot of time to shoot/edit them.

For movies (in the US at least) there is an R rating (which is 18) and NC-17. The R rating is still up to a parent discretion. The NC-17 rating though is a hard no individuals below 17.

@@parentalgaming3785 R is 17 NC-17 IS 18

Sorry, yes R is 17 but NC-17 is also 17 according to www.motionpictures.org/film-ratings/. There's really no level of maturity that 1 year gets you. I think the only thing that an AO rating insures is that you can't just go down to a retailer and buy it. AO is also the kiss of death for most games so it also keeps the developers and publishers in line.

@@parentalgaming3785 it says no one 17 and under.

Thanks! Sorry for the bad video quality. We were trying out a new camera and it did not do the best.

Estou trabalhando em alguns agora. Estarei postando atualizações se for bem-sucedido.

For $250 I would recommend pitching in the extra $50 and getting a quest 2. Better resolution, faster, better wireless.

@@parentalgaming3785 ok

Ya, we are selling it.

The buildtak layer was coming off of the bed. Glue sticks worked very well for me before that.

I don't connect to my printer. I export to gcode to micro SD and put the card in my printer. Later on I intend to load OctiPi on a Raspberry Pi and use that to upload printer. When I first set up Cura I used the QQS profile.

This is all great info. Got to follow this channel for sure

I have not. I have only used PLA and PLA+ in my printer.

WHat? IPA will definately remove oils before soap n water...

Man, you're going to kill someone with that suggestion.

Thanks, I will definitely be printing a new air duct. There are alot of mods I want to do to this but can't right now as I will be discussing in my next FLSUN update video.

Good advice. Thank you for the recommendations.

In case of the Q5 the glass is the base bed, the heater is directly attached to it. I have one and all that's needed is to rough it up with steel wool and print at 5° hotter on the bet, it works great!!! Just make sure to use painters tape of you print PETG if not you will need to replace the metal bed after printing because the PETG will fuse to the PEI sheet.

Wrong, don’t listen to this guy, u can leave the glass alone, just stick the magnetic piece on top of the glass, then put the flex plate on top of that. There’s no problem with it at all. It actually helps the printer because it evens out the level because it’s top-heavy. Don’t listen to this guy he knows nothing. I have the QQS pro and I have done this and it works perfectly. without the removal of the glass.

@@JerseyStyle7 for one you compare it to a different printer and i never said it doesn't work I just said it is worse. And which of my statements are wrong? - if you glue one not perfect flat surface to another not perfect surface you need to compensate for both. - Glass insulates so to transfer the heat from a metal heater to a glass surface to a magnetic sheet to a metal plate takes much more power than if you leave the glass out. - the further the temperature sensor is from the end surface the less accurate it is so the heating is less stable Sure, Auto leveling can compensate for most of the uneven Surface and a new pid tuning will compensate for the worse heating stability, so you only have to increase the bed temp by 5° to get a decent first layer, but that doesn't mean it's best practice or the best option in the long run. And for Bonus, if you remove the glass, you can reuse it later, if you stick something on it the glue will damage the surface. If you say I'm wrong and have 0 clue what I'm talking about at least bring solid reasons except " It WoRkS oN A dIfFeReNt PrInTeR fOr mE!!!1!1!11"

@@ized88 your wrong again 100% I never adjusted the bed temp, didn’t have to, because I know how to level, and as far as the adhesive on the magnet, your wrong again there as well, i peeled that magnet off my old machine with no problem-u gotta heat it first, wow-u really need some 3-d printing tutorials dont you🤦‍♂️😂🤦‍♂️

The version that comes with the Q5 is old. You can download the latest version from Cura's site here ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura. Also, I will have to put off my light mod yet again. I was attempting to replace the nozzle and it didn't go too well. I will be posting a video update of that because I think its a very good learning opportunity.

@@parentalgaming3785 I just downloaded Cura 4.8 and it's running fine. Not sure why you're having trouble with the nozzle but look forward seeing what happened. Thanks!

@@baxrok2. Well, it started out with my wanting to replace my fan because it was starting to make a grinding noise. So I thought as long as I had the effector off I might as well. And I wanted to replace the PTFE tubing anyhow which involves taking out the metal throat and making sure it's clean.

@@parentalgaming3785 Okay, I see. I just got my PTFE tubing today. Hopefully, installation will go smoothly!

i have seen your update video . so forget what i said about clean the sheet :) . but the leveling with heated bed and the g codes are very good . I never print without it anymore :) however... always nice to see some q5 content (there is unfortunately a smaller community for this printer as i was hoping for when i purchased it .

I want to document my experience with the FLSUN as someone new to 3D printers. I also have not seen much about the Q5 on UA-cam or anywhere. This might be due to the Q5 being relatively new.

I can do that. There are still alot of settings that I need to tinker with.

Thank you for the suggestion

i just use elmer's glue stick on mine. works like a charm

PEI is the best surface in terms of adhesion, by no means is it "slick"

I would be interested to see the LED light ring on the Q5. I would think that the arms and hot end would cause shadows. Please keep me updated.

The LED light rings I designed are working great. I made one with 18 lights and one with 24. No problems with hard shadow casting on either.

Hey man. How's everything going for you?

@@parentalgaming3785 good good

As you can see I hit 60 subs

@@whigby4159 I saw, congrats.