Get that girl a gimbal! Erin, thank you for bringing John back to UA-cam, we missed him, but please pester him to get you some more dedicated kit! These are awesome already ad your editing is first class, but with better kit you'll be flying. Thanks for another great video team!
this might sound dumb. but if you make the blades serially, ask your assembler to log exactly the pins he's using. I think in a couple of runs you can compensate the mill wear down to a couple of microns.
I love the blade design and engineering you guys put into each piece you make. I’ve been on the Norseman makers choice for 2 years. Please let me become one of the chosen!!!!
John, I'm into wood CNC, but love your videos. Your attention to detail and dedication to your product is inspiring. I always look forward to your videos and what's new in your shop. Keep up the great work!
Great to see you guys share your innovations! I have an idea for you that might simplify the adjusting process. Try making the stop pins conical with both ends beeing cilindrical, also make the ends of the groove in the blade conical to match the pin. Adjusting the depth of the pins in their holes give you the micro-adjustability you are after while all the pins can be machined the same. Drop a small piece of rubber in one of the holes! And maybe a small set screw into the opposing hole, the adjustment of the set screw would determine the amount of depression into the hole. I hope i am clear enough in explaining this idea. Hope you guys continue to share your progress, its very interesting! Keep up the good work. Oh yeah, allmost forgot, theconical pins make compensating for wear possible.
Hello John. After having used the Haas mill and Nakamura lathe for a while, what is your verdict on those rather large machines, especially as it relates to making small parts like your bearings? I suspect that small, capable machines (not necessarily Tormachs) would do the job as well ... and would cost less. Thank you for sharing your insight and experience.
Not making a knife, but I need to do something (some kind of handle) to control the range of opening and closing, and your method gave me a very nice idea. Thanks!! :)
My frame lock bar wore down so the stop pin needs a little fat. It’s a 7 year old Kershaw. I could just slip a thin sleeve over the stop pin and that would tighten up the lock up. I guess I’ll send it in to repair.
LOVE the stuff about the detent ramp!! I have a quote unquote “pre-owned” Norseman #2456 and at first I was sort of concerned about the Single Thwack! when it opens cause I had no experience with Norsemans and on video it “Sounds” like you can hear a “Double Click” but I couldn’t recreate it n person so I wasn’t sure that all was ok. So finally just making my own (really lame) video I noticed that the video sound and the in person sound are considerably different. And until just now seeing this video I had not been quite sure about the whole thing. Thank you
Seems like the greatest variation is likely in the groove. Could you track the wear and dimension of the groove over time and develop an automatic wear tool offset based on the data and the number of blades machined by the tool? Hope you can understand my poor explanation. Keep up the great work!
You should go back to a single pin, then use a ball bearing on either side, a big one on the lock up side and a small one on the detent side so they won't get mixed up. That way you can buy bearings with the tolerance you need for pennies, you can simplify your pin to a straight cylinder and you don't need to tie up your lathe making twice as many fancy pins, you just need the stop slot cut with a few degrees more arc.
I'm noticing a lot of resell lately on reddit, they're getting snapped up quick, no complaints yet, most are looking at the Rask, seems to be more popular and more 'utility', but honestly unless I can comfortably afford one, there's no way, even as a gift would I would carry, much less use due to their high cost, of course I may not be the type you market too.
If each of the 2 pins don’t have the same tolerances, it might be a pain to set up but for the ease of the customer re-assembling could you not a separate box of pins for each open and close with each having a separate fitting shape. Eg the close pin would have a square fitment and the open a triangular one? I presume it would only need to be on one side of the handle?
Have you considered using a cam system with each of the two pins? You wouldn't have to worry about swapping different sized pins, just adjusting the cams. It's a slightly more complicated setup, but two pins is more complicated than one anyway! It's just one more step in the same direction.
Are you using dedicated finish endmills for critical features like the stops and slot? I found the only way to get good tolerances (tenths) was to use a dedicated tool for finish passes, the tool would hold up a lot longer and I would get more consistent results.
That's what tool wear compensation is for. He just needs to setup the macro to probe his small endmill after N number of parts, then comp the diameter of the tool. That will require him to setup his F360 toolpaths to use cutter radius compensation though, by default it doesn't.
Isn't there some kind of indication you could incorporate into the design that tells you which pin to grab? A bit like numbering with a 3D printer where the tightest tolerance is the one you can still read.
Awesome knives keep getting even better,. So want one with an “easy groove”! (Like #600 if I had a choice). I’m in on the makers choice lottery. Fingers crossed!
Hello G Bros...i hear ya on 4he dual stop pin and every one gets an opinion...check with Effenberk Knife....hell explain how to avoid the problem your having with a single...the guy is a genius...gettin myself one of his now, thanks CHEERS
I single pin with a "cam lobe" I bet you could make one on your lathe. It would create 2 distinct sides that could be individually tuned for either lock up or detent.
You would still have a range of sizes, but would only need to make one pin instead of 2, and instead of drilling 4 stop pin holes (2 in each handle) you would only need 2 (one in each handle). Which in theory would reduce the tolerance stacking, which he is constantly correcting for in each batch.
He successfully decoupled the tolerance matching with the two pin method, and you're talking about recoupling it in a complex manner with a much larger set of manufactured components. I don't see the advantage.
That ramp is cool. You should start writing on screen what exact knife was displayed. Then people can brag later. " Hey you seen my knife. He explained this and that with my effin knife." Aaa yeah. Crowd goes wild.
Very interesting and pretty Damn smart of you guys as well. Hey I only out in for the lottery one time. Is that still good. Or you taking orders now. Just curious is why I'm asking
I haven't seen your videos in quite a while. At first new appearances you look quite unwell, I hope you're looking after yourself as much as you should be
Nice idea. But you can also divide the screw in 3 layers with different diameter, and the blade gliding hole also in 3 layers. So you can stop the opened blade perhapse with the middle layer and locked blade will be stoped with the upper and bottom layer. If you like this idea, I can explain it detailed to you, just contact me.
Rather than make the pins yourself, why not order them from a Swiss Turning machine company? They can make tons of pins to crucial tolerances at very low cost.
It’s funny that this video is basically about making a knife that is perfect. I received a knife that wasn’t perfect. Contacted John. And was pretty much told I had to deal with it. They lost a customer.
No music while you are speaking, why would you make it more difficult to hear ? How about publishing two videos, one they way you do now and one with no music ?
I wish you guys were always churning out knives so that customers could buy what they want rather than using your ridiculously customer unfriendly ordering sysyem.
You have no email or contact list on your official site, just instagram accounts. Very unprofessional, I'd consider changing some stuff up that could drastically improve your business
Get that girl a gimbal! Erin, thank you for bringing John back to UA-cam, we missed him, but please pester him to get you some more dedicated kit! These are awesome already ad your editing is first class, but with better kit you'll be flying.
Thanks for another great video team!
Or a $5 fig rig.
Super smart stuff!
Alec Steele alec i love your videos and your creations!!! your a cool dude too! inspired!
Took a 0.149 pin and put it back with the 0.148 doh! :D
this might sound dumb. but if you make the blades serially, ask your assembler to log exactly the pins he's using.
I think in a couple of runs you can compensate the mill wear down to a couple of microns.
I have to say this. The Norseman, the 911 of knives. Always evolving. Love them guys. Keep going
Imagine if someone would’ve patented the the detent ball ramp, can’t say that about the 2 pin system you created. Amazing work!
I love the blade design and engineering you guys put into each piece you make. I’ve been on the Norseman makers choice for 2 years. Please let me become one of the chosen!!!!
John, I'm into wood CNC, but love your videos. Your attention to detail and dedication to your product is inspiring. I always look forward to your videos and what's new in your shop. Keep up the great work!
Great to see you guys share your innovations! I have an idea for you that might simplify the adjusting process.
Try making the stop pins conical with both ends beeing cilindrical, also make the ends of the groove in the blade conical to match the pin. Adjusting the depth of the pins in their holes give you the micro-adjustability you are after while all the pins can be machined the same. Drop a small piece of rubber in one of the holes! And maybe a small set screw into the opposing hole, the adjustment of the set screw would determine the amount of depression into the hole.
I hope i am clear enough in explaining this idea. Hope you guys continue to share your progress, its very interesting! Keep up the good work.
Oh yeah, allmost forgot, theconical pins make compensating for wear possible.
Wow! This is something I've really been trying to get into and figure out. You've taken it to the next level!
You guys make some beutiful stuff.. and the attention to detail it what makes your knifes so awesome....
I was looking for a video about the ramp and when it started, thank you.
Hello John. After having used the Haas mill and Nakamura lathe for a while, what is your verdict on those rather large machines, especially as it relates to making small parts like your bearings? I suspect that small, capable machines (not necessarily Tormachs) would do the job as well ... and would cost less. Thank you for sharing your insight and experience.
Not making a knife, but I need to do something (some kind of handle) to control the range of opening and closing, and your method gave me a very nice idea. Thanks!! :)
Love the attention to fine detail, great stuff.
John , are you treating or sealing knife after heat anodizing coloring ?
i found that lemon juice making some spots...
Thanks
My frame lock bar wore down so the stop pin needs a little fat. It’s a 7 year old Kershaw. I could just slip a thin sleeve over the stop pin and that would tighten up the lock up. I guess I’ll send it in to repair.
Erik wins the best t-shirt award.
👍👍😎
RetroWeld Even tho it's Ferrum Forge lol.
Any plans for a hardened steel lockbar insert, yet? I mean, wouldn't that also solve the play on lockup?
LOVE the stuff about the detent ramp!! I have a quote unquote “pre-owned” Norseman #2456 and at first I was sort of concerned about the Single Thwack! when it opens cause I had no experience with Norsemans and on video it “Sounds” like you can hear a “Double Click” but I couldn’t recreate it n person so I wasn’t sure that all was ok.
So finally just making my own (really lame) video I noticed that the video sound and the in person sound are considerably different. And until just now seeing this video I had not been quite sure about the whole thing.
Thank you
Wow. That's a great idea.
Great idea and execution!
Seems like the greatest variation is likely in the groove. Could you track the wear and dimension of the groove over time and develop an automatic wear tool offset based on the data and the number of blades machined by the tool? Hope you can understand my poor explanation. Keep up the great work!
Loved the music slow down on the, “wait where did I get that from.”😂
You should go back to a single pin, then use a ball bearing on either side, a big one on the lock up side and a small one on the detent side so they won't get mixed up.
That way you can buy bearings with the tolerance you need for pennies, you can simplify your pin to a straight cylinder and you don't need to tie up your lathe making twice as many fancy pins, you just need the stop slot cut with a few degrees more arc.
I'm noticing a lot of resell lately on reddit, they're getting snapped up quick, no complaints yet, most are looking at the Rask, seems to be more popular and more 'utility', but honestly unless I can comfortably afford one, there's no way, even as a gift would I would carry, much less use due to their high cost, of course I may not be the type you market too.
I bought number 899 recently. Outdated already. It doesn‘t have this ramp 😄
Good stuff John! enjoyed.
ATB, Robin
Great idea, well done👌🏼
Nice video & explanations.
If each of the 2 pins don’t have the same tolerances, it might be a pain to set up but for the ease of the customer re-assembling could you not a separate box of pins for each open and close with each having a separate fitting shape. Eg the close pin would have a square fitment and the open a triangular one? I presume it would only need to be on one side of the handle?
Have you considered using a cam system with each of the two pins? You wouldn't have to worry about swapping different sized pins, just adjusting the cams. It's a slightly more complicated setup, but two pins is more complicated than one anyway! It's just one more step in the same direction.
Just curious… Do you track (in a spreadsheet or database) the sizes of the variable pins per knife?
Great.... soooo when are the prices going to drop seeing how you spend less time on each knife.
Love these vlogs PEACE!! :-)
Are you using dedicated finish endmills for critical features like the stops and slot? I found the only way to get good tolerances (tenths) was to use a dedicated tool for finish passes, the tool would hold up a lot longer and I would get more consistent results.
I would also combined that with a Probe to self check the surfaces, and then run a Macro to auto adjust the offset as needed.
That's what tool wear compensation is for. He just needs to setup the macro to probe his small endmill after N number of parts, then comp the diameter of the tool. That will require him to setup his F360 toolpaths to use cutter radius compensation though, by default it doesn't.
Isn't there some kind of indication you could incorporate into the design that tells you which pin to grab? A bit like numbering with a 3D printer where the tightest tolerance is the one you can still read.
I want a Grimsmo knife so bad... Maybe one day I will win the knife lottery !
Love Erik's shirt in the background
Awesome knives keep getting even better,. So want one with an “easy groove”! (Like #600 if I had a choice). I’m in on the makers choice lottery. Fingers crossed!
Hello G Bros...i hear ya on 4he dual stop pin and every one gets an opinion...check with Effenberk Knife....hell explain how to avoid the problem your having with a single...the guy is a genius...gettin myself one of his now, thanks CHEERS
Great idea
I single pin with a "cam lobe" I bet you could make one on your lathe. It would create 2 distinct sides that could be individually tuned for either lock up or detent.
Except instead of a range of sizes, say ten, you'd then have to have that range squared, one hundred, to have all the different combinations.
You would still have a range of sizes, but would only need to make one pin instead of 2, and instead of drilling 4 stop pin holes (2 in each handle) you would only need 2 (one in each handle). Which in theory would reduce the tolerance stacking, which he is constantly correcting for in each batch.
He successfully decoupled the tolerance matching with the two pin method, and you're talking about recoupling it in a complex manner with a much larger set of manufactured components. I don't see the advantage.
I hear you and I watched the video, I realize what the pins are for . I was just expressing an idea, not looking for an argument.
His holding that box of pins in air with one hand made it hard to watch! I was hoping he would just put it down on the table!!!!
Imagine dropping the box and all the pins flying out....
Liking the new videos.
Does this not effect the looks of the open knife??
That ramp is cool. You should start writing on screen what exact knife was displayed. Then people can brag later. " Hey you seen my knife. He explained this and that with my effin knife." Aaa yeah. Crowd goes wild.
Very interesting and pretty Damn smart of you guys as well. Hey I only out in for the lottery one time. Is that still good. Or you taking orders now. Just curious is why I'm asking
Great video as always, get Angelo introduced already!
I haven't seen your videos in quite a while. At first new appearances you look quite unwell, I hope you're looking after yourself as much as you should be
EZ Groove!
you may want to include a link to your store on your videos
i think the norseman will always be evolving
What if the centers of the stop pins were slightly out-of-round so you could tune the lockup and detent by turning them?
Nice idea. But you can also divide the screw in 3 layers with different diameter, and the blade gliding hole also in 3 layers. So you can stop the opened blade perhapse with the middle layer and locked blade will be stoped with the upper and bottom layer. If you like this idea, I can explain it detailed to you, just contact me.
Sergej Kolmogorov interesting theory, could you explain it a little bit more? :)
Cool :D now just color mark the pins :D
Genius.
Poor Eric. Off camera: He's chained to the grinder and fed him gruel.
Please no music. Id just rather hear what you have to say with no annoyance or interruption.
12345NoNamesLeft I found it really distracting also
Rather than make the pins yourself, why not order them from a Swiss Turning machine company? They can make tons of pins to crucial tolerances at very low cost.
Who is the red shirt?
Great insight, as always! The music doesn't fit at all though. Reminds of some cute japanese anime.
It’s funny that this video is basically about making a knife that is perfect. I received a knife that wasn’t perfect. Contacted John. And was pretty much told I had to deal with it. They lost a customer.
Hold'em Hook what was the issue about?
Surprised your not just spin grinding the pins or outsourcing it
For that kind of money shortening the hand fitting process doesn’t spell value to the customer. I’d expect it to be hard to make for the price tag.
Очень круто. Сам хочу нож по своим рисункам, под своим именем. Но. Нет возможности, инструмента, материалов.
No music while you are speaking, why would you make it more difficult to hear ?
How about publishing two videos, one they way you do now and one with no music ?
Eric is way swankier than John....just sayin John, you need to step your attire game up.
Nope...Wrong spot😂😂😂
I wish you guys were always churning out knives so that customers could buy what they want rather than using your ridiculously customer unfriendly ordering sysyem.
Seeing you out the pin back into the wrong bin made me cringe
900x100=90 000... Haters ;)
Any one els taking a poop right now??
You have no email or contact list on your official site, just instagram accounts. Very unprofessional, I'd consider changing some stuff up that could drastically improve your business