That's a really good suggestion. I briefly considered it while coding, but didn't think about it too much so I just went with it. I had to use the finishing tool on the flat tanto portion on the spine of the blade, so I figured might as well do the edge too. But you're right, that's a few inches of cut per blade that the endmill doesn't have to do.
Thanks Karl (or Alex). For some op's I do 5 thou, but the rougher leaves a wavy surface so I wanted to make sure it gets taken off, so 10 thou worked great. If I'm using a regular 4flute and a finisher, or just a regular endmill with a finish pass, I'll do 5 thou.
Finally! I'm writing the code for the lefty blades tonight and will cut them tomorrow. Can't guarantee it'll make it on film, but somewhere along the line the lefty knives will definitely get filmed.
Not all are, but most are. Because it rocks. It's relatively easy to get it to work right, simple design, and customers love it. Liner locks are also popular. Button locks are less popular but just as awesome, if not awesomer, than frame locks, but hard to make them perfect, especially for flippers.
Like butter is right! Most of the blades are done, Erik should get 'em all ready for HT tomorrow. Probably do bearings next, the ones I made turned out sweet! 1/16" balls on a 3/16" hole, 10 balls spaced as far from centerline as I could get 'em. Should be a cool video.
I like working this way as often as possible. It doesnt typically save any time, but often makes for an easier work flow. It can also sometimes save on bolt swapping, but you'll go crazy trying to optimize every last bit of every part-- and will likely spend more time optimizing than you ever save :) Its important to remember that if the machine is running un-attended, and you're achieving your part quota, cycle time is largely insignificant.
I engrave at max 5,100 rpm. For these stainless blades most of the tools are run at 4000-5100, with the exception of the toroid (2120) and a cobalt 1/8" drill (1900). And yes, the ATC has an internal air blast that clears chips and coolant, works great at 120psi!
Climb mill for EVERYTHING. If you haven't seen the difference in surface finish between climb mill and conventional mill, chuck up a block of aluminum in a vise and skim the side of it with an endmill. clockwise around the outside is climb, ccw is conventional. Just do this manually with the keyboard. Climb leaves a nice finish, conventional leaves weird burrs stuck everywhere. Also doing rough passes and finish passes, even with the same endmill, makes a nicer finish. Leave 0.010. Cheers!
Thanks bud! Those compressors look cool, but not big enough for what I need. I want to get at least a 3hp unit with a 60 gallon tank. That way I can run the vac pallet, mist, and get a bead blaster.
I'll try to make an enclosure for my new compressor, should help a lot. Thanks! The new clamps will be half moon shaped and grip the blade spine a lot more securely, you nailed it.
Only in my head so far, got some cool new ideas for it too. Once this batch of Norseman knives are out the door and Erik is starting on the next batch I should have some time to start working on it. I want to have a bunch to bring to Blade show at the end of May.
Thanks! The key to making parts that look good is to never be happy with anything you make haha. Then eventually you start to admire your own work. Shop lighting is the same, but I got an LED panel light for my camera so everything seems much better lit. I need to put a fluorescent or two above the mill.
Thank you John! Not enough makers look after the lefty community. A surprisingly high proportion of people are left handed (1 in 10 i think). Most have learned to use right handed knives but its still a massive market left untapped. When you get around to making the integral I would love to have a lefty version.
I'll check that out, thanks. I want to say I tried that a few years ago but it was still really loud. I'm also glad it's not an oil-less! I used to have one, it'd scare me every time it came on.
That would be neat, I haven't seen any options like that in SolidCAM. In GWizard, my speeds/feeds calculator, it can calculate speeds/feeds based on engagement angle, but you sort of have to pick the tightest angle and just use one setting for the whole pass.
Interesting concept, and I like the suggestion where instead of having nothing nothing nothing boom 12 blades done, we can have a few finished ones at a time. However, I think overall my way is more efficient because when I start the day I can start a whole pallet full, not just part of it. And while the whole pallet is running, there's time to spend fixturing the next one and scotchbriting all the finished ones. The difference might be negligible by the end of the day, but I like the idea!
Are you guys talking about the surface finish on my pallets? Tormach Superfly cutter with aluminum insert, 0.010" roughing pass at 2500 and 25ipm, 0.002" finish pass at same, 10ipm Z feed into part.
I didn't show it, but I've got a huge piece of Timascus the same size as that Damasteel which is getting made into a Norseman. But they won't both be on the same knife, sometimes that's too much visually and too expensive. Although for fun I should assemble them both together and see what it looks like....
I did actually! And it's a lefty too, right? Better be, cause that's what you're getting haha. The blades are all done now, heading to heat treat tomorrow. Handles this week.
I have a suggestion for the new pallets. Because you have an atc now, you could do something like having two blades in each of the clamping positions. Lets say the first row has two rough peaces having the shape roughed, the second row has two blanks getting the getting the the first side cut... that way each time you change pallets you get two finished blades and then you move the rest down a row. This even out the work you do by hand (scotch-blighting...).
Awesome stuff guys! You've definitely been busy! And, seriously, I'm just joking around when I razz you here. Pay me no mind. It's exciting to see the damasteel too! Can't wait! Keep up the great work guys!
I'm definitely not satisfied, so maybe I'm on the right track ;) I remember you mentioning the camera light in a previous video, but it looked even brighter in this one.
Yup, the compressor noise was especially bad in this video, bothered the crap out of me while editing it. That Jun-Air looks sweet, but again, not big enough for my needs. I might build an enclosure box with sound deadening for my new one, as long as it doesn't overheat.
The finisher isn't chattering in the corners and there's really only one corner that's even remotely tight, the rest are super wide. But I'll pack that tip away in my brain. The SFM I'm using for the indexable is 383 with a 0.007" chipload. Not sure what coating, it's blue/grey, sort of like TiAln but without the purple hue. No coolant eh, interesting, I might try that tomorrow, but the LAST thing I want to do is cause these blades to warp, because that's already a minor problem sometimes.
I use CAD/CAM to design and program everything, but you still have to understand the code and be able to make changes all the time. I use Mach3, it's great, definitely geared towards the hobby market but it has no problem doing production work. I am completely self taught, I spend a lot of late nights learning and watching youtube videos haha.
also frame locks allow you to easily close the knife one handed; which in nice. i often find my self opening & closing my favorites as a nervous habit, kind of like clicking a pen. that way i get more enjoyment out of my extravagant purchase.
John, Finally found your UA-cam Channel. Have read multiple posting & in many places related to Grimsmo Knives. From what I'd read, thought you were only doing CNC scales. Looks like lot's more now. SUBSCRIBED - now to explore your videos and will check in to website. Regards,
When I start doing pallets that take hours and hours I will definitely run them at night. With these blades the longest unattended run is only about an hour because there are a lot of clamping changes required. The titanium handles should have a longer runtime. But it would be sweet to make a pallet full of something super intricate that takes a lot of 3d milling so I can set it up and run it while I'm sleeping. An automatic pallet changer would be NUTS, don't tempt me haha.
I send it off for recycling. It's a really fancy powdered steel, so the chips are of no use to me. I try to separate the metals, aluminum, steel, stainless, titanium, that way I can recycle them separately.
Most CAM software will have some sort of feature that will allow a set of constraints that determine which corners need reduced feedrate and which dont (typically set by engagement angle.) Chatter is a relative term. I consider engagement angle among the most influential on feedrate-- and it varies widely from a sweeping outside arc to a tight inside arc. I'll concede however that you'll likely need to replace that cutter due to finish quality rather than it breaking.
Not sure exactly, I used Gwizard to calculate speeds/feeds. 4100rpm, 8.2ipm, 1/8" DOC in high carbon stainless. I originally did it at 25ipm but the spindle couldn't keep up haha.
The Nirk Tighe is awesome, I know Brian pretty well, he's who I bought all this blade steel from. The original is exceptional but the CRKT version is really well done too.
I stand by my "most" statement. The one i'm most fond of is HSMWorks, which allows for numerous variables to control which corners get a reduced feedrate. However, Delcam, Mastercam, Gibbscam -- even Bobcad-- all have methods to reduce the feedrate in corners. I'm certain there are more, but i'm intimately familiar with the option in each of those packages. It should be standard by now, so i'm surprised neither of those previously mentioned are capable.
That would probably leave me with the same problem I was having for my Tor fixed blades, wicked wicked chatter. Disc sander isn't that hard to do, and I'd have to do it anyway to get the flycut marks out. Also, I only want to take off one thou or less from each side.
I love these videos. Thanks for making them! 20:40 - "See how annoying that air compressor is?" Syclone Air Compressor on Amazon and other sites. More expensive, but only 60 dB! And I think it'll last longer than my noisy Porter Cable that I never use anymore. BTW - Flipper Gimping would be a good name for a rock star. STILL loving the Tormach SuperFly carbide insert cutter.
Cool stuff! I've been meaning to get a flat stone so that I can lap the plates flat and knock off any burrs that form during machining, but I have no idea where to get 'em.
Next time a timecode would be nice so I know what portion of the video you're talking about. But if you mean around 3:30, I usually leave around 0.050" or more at the bottom of a drilled hole so it doesn't punch through. Although I could leave 0.010" and be pretty confident about it.
Any issues have been minor and easy to fix, and most were my fault to begin with haha. It truly is a GREAT machine. I can't think of any maintenance that I've had to do to it in the 10 months that I've had it, other than some adjustments here and there trying to make the surface finish even better. Out of the box it just "worked". I haven't broken or had to replace anything either (except for endmills haha). No idea how many hours, although the computer would tell me if I looked.
thanks man i needed that cnc shot in the arm ---killer job --i look forward to your vids good luck on everything you do -------- man talk to you later!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks buddy! Wire EDM would be sweet but wouldn't it be too slow for this kind of work? I know of a knifemaker who did a bit of it and said it was just too expensive, milling/waterjet was better.
I bet a polystyrene enclosure would dampen the sound of that compressor. You could leave vent holes towards the wall. Great video. Also would making the bolt down claps in the shape of a half moon reduce the play an allow tool movement?
Outside in a lean to ehhhh? Interesting. Or I'll make a breathable sound absorbing box for it inside. I have thought about a wood stove, but that's about as far as I've gotten haha.
Good Stuff. To Quote Wayne's World "It will be mine. Oh yes. It will be mine." Some day. Did i just see the ATC Shoot a burst of air before switching tools to get rid of chips....Crazy smart.
Next time the compressor kicks off put your hand over the air intake. If the noise that the compressor makes drops dramatically you can install a tube over the intake along with a filter to muffle the sound like a car muffler. Just be glad you dont have a oil-less compressor those things are miserable. Nice videos! Always looking on Tuesdays but Sundays work too.
You could buy a couple of quiet compressors, one at a time, to supplement and ultimately phase out your existing compressor. They make a 2 HP compressor @m 70 dB, as well as the 1 HP @ 60 dB. gmcgeneratorsdotcom/?page_id=46 Or, buy a big vertical air compressor and put it in a sound absorbing but very breathable enclosure (to keep the heat in your shop) or put it in a little lean-to building behind your shop. PS - I'm not your buddy, guy. :-) (Terrance & Philip humor from South Park)
You are getting really bad chatter and when you are cutting the pocket, it appears you are fulling engaging the cutter which is considered really bad (increased tool wear and probability of snapping the cutter). You should looking into high speed tool paths that utilizes trochoidal tool paths. This will enable faster speeds and feeds while reducing load and wear on both the cutter and the machine. What are you using for CAM?
John, It's been entertaining and educational running through your videos. I picked up a Tormach PCNC 1100 and watching your evolution/progress brought back many memories of shared experiences (e.g. braking bits, hitting bolts fastening down work, etc). Thanks for sharing. Question: How much clearance did you have between the end of you drill bit when it punched through your fixture and the surface of your vacuum table? -Shane
Been watching your videos over the last couple weeks. I noticed that you never mention or talk about maintenance or issues with the Tormach. Have you had any issues with it and what type of maintenance have you had to do to it? About how many machine hrs/run time do you have on it? Looking to get into cnc and from what I can tell this appears to be a decent machine. Also get a heater for your shop, may help on your winter colds. Thanks
Great work guys - one question, as i think it's such a cool piece what do you think of the nirk tighe. The custom lockback is wicked cool !. Untill next time :)
On camera mic, it sounds worst when I'm standing right above it and talking, not so bad when I'm in front of it talking towards it. I haven't done any audio tweaks except for lowering the volume for all the loud machining parts. It would be nice to record better audio for all the talking parts.
They are easier to build. If I remember rightly John wanted the Norseman to be button lock originally but changed to frame lock when he realised how difficult it would be. Sorry to contradict you but i think button locks are stronger and more reliable than frame locks. This is just my opinion. Il carry out a mechanical analysis and find out for sure :)
Erik (the ginger) thinks that gingers DO have souls! But that's the extent of my south park knowledge, I'm more of a simpsons/family guy guy. Big vertical in a sound enclosure is my current plan.
watching this in 2024 and it is awesome how you can see progress from garage to what are they doing today...great
That's a really good suggestion. I briefly considered it while coding, but didn't think about it too much so I just went with it. I had to use the finishing tool on the flat tanto portion on the spine of the blade, so I figured might as well do the edge too. But you're right, that's a few inches of cut per blade that the endmill doesn't have to do.
Watching these older videos just makes my day.
Thanks Karl (or Alex). For some op's I do 5 thou, but the rougher leaves a wavy surface so I wanted to make sure it gets taken off, so 10 thou worked great. If I'm using a regular 4flute and a finisher, or just a regular endmill with a finish pass, I'll do 5 thou.
Finally! I'm writing the code for the lefty blades tonight and will cut them tomorrow. Can't guarantee it'll make it on film, but somewhere along the line the lefty knives will definitely get filmed.
Not all are, but most are. Because it rocks. It's relatively easy to get it to work right, simple design, and customers love it. Liner locks are also popular. Button locks are less popular but just as awesome, if not awesomer, than frame locks, but hard to make them perfect, especially for flippers.
Like butter is right! Most of the blades are done, Erik should get 'em all ready for HT tomorrow. Probably do bearings next, the ones I made turned out sweet! 1/16" balls on a 3/16" hole, 10 balls spaced as far from centerline as I could get 'em. Should be a cool video.
I like working this way as often as possible. It doesnt typically save any time, but often makes for an easier work flow. It can also sometimes save on bolt swapping, but you'll go crazy trying to optimize every last bit of every part-- and will likely spend more time optimizing than you ever save :)
Its important to remember that if the machine is running un-attended, and you're achieving your part quota, cycle time is largely insignificant.
a 1in radius mill is a genius idea - well done!
I've never seen a ringed pallet. didn't think that was possible w/o heat treat, grind, and lap. Good Job.
Yep, always climb mill even when roughing. For slotting it really doesn't matter especially if you're doing a climb finishing pass.
I engrave at max 5,100 rpm. For these stainless blades most of the tools are run at 4000-5100, with the exception of the toroid (2120) and a cobalt 1/8" drill (1900). And yes, the ATC has an internal air blast that clears chips and coolant, works great at 120psi!
3:30 was right. The electronic tool setter is a great way to add confidence in your depths of cut. Thanks and cheers.
Great stuff, John. Cant wait to see the dammy Norseman. Damascus pocket clips will look fantastic too!
Climb mill for EVERYTHING. If you haven't seen the difference in surface finish between climb mill and conventional mill, chuck up a block of aluminum in a vise and skim the side of it with an endmill. clockwise around the outside is climb, ccw is conventional. Just do this manually with the keyboard. Climb leaves a nice finish, conventional leaves weird burrs stuck everywhere. Also doing rough passes and finish passes, even with the same endmill, makes a nicer finish. Leave 0.010. Cheers!
Thanks bud! Those compressors look cool, but not big enough for what I need. I want to get at least a 3hp unit with a 60 gallon tank. That way I can run the vac pallet, mist, and get a bead blaster.
I'll try to make an enclosure for my new compressor, should help a lot. Thanks! The new clamps will be half moon shaped and grip the blade spine a lot more securely, you nailed it.
Only in my head so far, got some cool new ideas for it too. Once this batch of Norseman knives are out the door and Erik is starting on the next batch I should have some time to start working on it. I want to have a bunch to bring to Blade show at the end of May.
Thanks! The key to making parts that look good is to never be happy with anything you make haha. Then eventually you start to admire your own work.
Shop lighting is the same, but I got an LED panel light for my camera so everything seems much better lit. I need to put a fluorescent or two above the mill.
And whoever complains about your videos should stuff it..... Do them how you want, it's your video and you do a great job!
Thank you John! Not enough makers look after the lefty community. A surprisingly high proportion of people are left handed (1 in 10 i think). Most have learned to use right handed knives but its still a massive market left untapped.
When you get around to making the integral I would love to have a lefty version.
That air suction you're feeling is "wringing". very cool natural phenomenon.
I'll check that out, thanks. I want to say I tried that a few years ago but it was still really loud. I'm also glad it's not an oil-less! I used to have one, it'd scare me every time it came on.
That would be neat, I haven't seen any options like that in SolidCAM. In GWizard, my speeds/feeds calculator, it can calculate speeds/feeds based on engagement angle, but you sort of have to pick the tightest angle and just use one setting for the whole pass.
Awesome, yes we're doing a lot more than just scales these days. Enjoy the videos!
Interesting concept, and I like the suggestion where instead of having nothing nothing nothing boom 12 blades done, we can have a few finished ones at a time. However, I think overall my way is more efficient because when I start the day I can start a whole pallet full, not just part of it. And while the whole pallet is running, there's time to spend fixturing the next one and scotchbriting all the finished ones. The difference might be negligible by the end of the day, but I like the idea!
Are you guys talking about the surface finish on my pallets? Tormach Superfly cutter with aluminum insert, 0.010" roughing pass at 2500 and 25ipm, 0.002" finish pass at same, 10ipm Z feed into part.
Thanks! Enjoy the vids, lots more coming, even if they're not exactly on Tuesday...
I didn't show it, but I've got a huge piece of Timascus the same size as that Damasteel which is getting made into a Norseman. But they won't both be on the same knife, sometimes that's too much visually and too expensive. Although for fun I should assemble them both together and see what it looks like....
Thrilled to see you making videos again, John. :D
I did actually! And it's a lefty too, right? Better be, cause that's what you're getting haha. The blades are all done now, heading to heat treat tomorrow. Handles this week.
I have a suggestion for the new pallets. Because you have an atc now, you could do something like having two blades in each of the clamping positions. Lets say the first row has two rough peaces having the shape roughed, the second row has two blanks getting the getting the the first side cut... that way each time you change pallets you get two finished blades and then you move the rest down a row. This even out the work you do by hand (scotch-blighting...).
The coolant recirculates, it drains to a tank under the machine and there's a pump in the tank that spits it back to the cutting tool again.
No promises that I'll be making lefty integrals, but I'll consider it.
Awesome stuff guys! You've definitely been busy! And, seriously, I'm just joking around when I razz you here. Pay me no mind. It's exciting to see the damasteel too! Can't wait! Keep up the great work guys!
I'm definitely not satisfied, so maybe I'm on the right track ;)
I remember you mentioning the camera light in a previous video, but it looked even brighter in this one.
Yup, the compressor noise was especially bad in this video, bothered the crap out of me while editing it. That Jun-Air looks sweet, but again, not big enough for my needs. I might build an enclosure box with sound deadening for my new one, as long as it doesn't overheat.
Great video, love the machining details. That Tormach tears up the steel, it's really an amazing machine.
The finisher isn't chattering in the corners and there's really only one corner that's even remotely tight, the rest are super wide. But I'll pack that tip away in my brain.
The SFM I'm using for the indexable is 383 with a 0.007" chipload. Not sure what coating, it's blue/grey, sort of like TiAln but without the purple hue. No coolant eh, interesting, I might try that tomorrow, but the LAST thing I want to do is cause these blades to warp, because that's already a minor problem sometimes.
I use CAD/CAM to design and program everything, but you still have to understand the code and be able to make changes all the time. I use Mach3, it's great, definitely geared towards the hobby market but it has no problem doing production work. I am completely self taught, I spend a lot of late nights learning and watching youtube videos haha.
Looking good bro. Will order one when I get back on my feet
also frame locks allow you to easily close the knife one handed; which in nice. i often find my self opening & closing my favorites as a nervous habit, kind of like clicking a pen. that way i get more enjoyment out of my extravagant purchase.
John,
Finally found your UA-cam Channel. Have read multiple posting & in many places related to Grimsmo Knives. From what I'd read, thought you were only doing CNC scales. Looks like lot's more now. SUBSCRIBED - now to explore your videos and will check in to website.
Regards,
When I start doing pallets that take hours and hours I will definitely run them at night. With these blades the longest unattended run is only about an hour because there are a lot of clamping changes required. The titanium handles should have a longer runtime. But it would be sweet to make a pallet full of something super intricate that takes a lot of 3d milling so I can set it up and run it while I'm sleeping.
An automatic pallet changer would be NUTS, don't tempt me haha.
I send it off for recycling. It's a really fancy powdered steel, so the chips are of no use to me. I try to separate the metals, aluminum, steel, stainless, titanium, that way I can recycle them separately.
Most CAM software will have some sort of feature that will allow a set of constraints that determine which corners need reduced feedrate and which dont (typically set by engagement angle.) Chatter is a relative term. I consider engagement angle among the most influential on feedrate-- and it varies widely from a sweeping outside arc to a tight inside arc. I'll concede however that you'll likely need to replace that cutter due to finish quality rather than it breaking.
Awesome video mate. You guys just keep getting better
Not sure exactly, I used Gwizard to calculate speeds/feeds. 4100rpm, 8.2ipm, 1/8" DOC in high carbon stainless. I originally did it at 25ipm but the spindle couldn't keep up haha.
Yup I did get the pressure sensor, it's saved me many times!
The Nirk Tighe is awesome, I know Brian pretty well, he's who I bought all this blade steel from. The original is exceptional but the CRKT version is really well done too.
I stand by my "most" statement. The one i'm most fond of is HSMWorks, which allows for numerous variables to control which corners get a reduced feedrate. However, Delcam, Mastercam, Gibbscam -- even Bobcad-- all have methods to reduce the feedrate in corners. I'm certain there are more, but i'm intimately familiar with the option in each of those packages. It should be standard by now, so i'm surprised neither of those previously mentioned are capable.
That would probably leave me with the same problem I was having for my Tor fixed blades, wicked wicked chatter. Disc sander isn't that hard to do, and I'd have to do it anyway to get the flycut marks out. Also, I only want to take off one thou or less from each side.
I love these videos. Thanks for making them!
20:40 - "See how annoying that air compressor is?" Syclone Air Compressor on Amazon and other sites. More expensive, but only 60 dB! And I think it'll last longer than my noisy Porter Cable that I never use anymore.
BTW - Flipper Gimping would be a good name for a rock star.
STILL loving the Tormach SuperFly carbide insert cutter.
A heater is one of those things that I would love to get, but I'm always like "Oooooh shiny tool over here!" haha. One day for sure.
Ahhhhh my lefty is in the works. Thanks John!
Cool stuff! I've been meaning to get a flat stone so that I can lap the plates flat and knock off any burrs that form during machining, but I have no idea where to get 'em.
Next time a timecode would be nice so I know what portion of the video you're talking about. But if you mean around 3:30, I usually leave around 0.050" or more at the bottom of a drilled hole so it doesn't punch through. Although I could leave 0.010" and be pretty confident about it.
Any issues have been minor and easy to fix, and most were my fault to begin with haha. It truly is a GREAT machine. I can't think of any maintenance that I've had to do to it in the 10 months that I've had it, other than some adjustments here and there trying to make the surface finish even better. Out of the box it just "worked". I haven't broken or had to replace anything either (except for endmills haha). No idea how many hours, although the computer would tell me if I looked.
thanks man i needed that cnc shot in the arm ---killer job --i look forward to your vids
good luck on everything you do -------- man talk to you later!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! Watch week 52, it shows my new camera at the beginning.
Thanks buddy! Wire EDM would be sweet but wouldn't it be too slow for this kind of work? I know of a knifemaker who did a bit of it and said it was just too expensive, milling/waterjet was better.
I bet a polystyrene enclosure would dampen the sound of that compressor. You could leave vent holes towards the wall. Great video. Also would making the bolt down claps in the shape of a half moon reduce the play an allow tool movement?
Look up Bos heat treat, or Peters Heat Treat, that should get you started.
It would be cool for sure, but unfortunately I won't be getting into jewelery anytime soon.
Yup, it's got its own air blast
Outside in a lean to ehhhh? Interesting. Or I'll make a breathable sound absorbing box for it inside. I have thought about a wood stove, but that's about as far as I've gotten haha.
Good Stuff.
To Quote Wayne's World "It will be mine. Oh yes. It will be mine."
Some day.
Did i just see the ATC Shoot a burst of air before switching tools to get rid of chips....Crazy smart.
Custom JG end mill... Awesome
Can you put the compressor outside when the weather improves?
Can't be perfect every day, I spent a TON of time editing this one.
Next time the compressor kicks off put your hand over the air intake. If the noise that the compressor makes drops dramatically you can install a tube over the intake along with a filter to muffle the sound like a car muffler. Just be glad you dont have a oil-less compressor those things are miserable. Nice videos! Always looking on Tuesdays but Sundays work too.
You could buy a couple of quiet compressors, one at a time, to supplement and ultimately phase out your existing compressor. They make a 2 HP compressor @m 70 dB, as well as the 1 HP @ 60 dB. gmcgeneratorsdotcom/?page_id=46
Or, buy a big vertical air compressor and put it in a sound absorbing but very breathable enclosure (to keep the heat in your shop) or put it in a little lean-to building behind your shop.
PS - I'm not your buddy, guy. :-)
(Terrance & Philip humor from South Park)
So did Erik! He almost freaked.
Honestly? Cause I don't know how haha. This is the way that I like to do it, so for now I'm sticking to it. Makes me different.
You are getting really bad chatter and when you are cutting the pocket, it appears you are fulling engaging the cutter which is considered really bad (increased tool wear and probability of snapping the cutter). You should looking into high speed tool paths that utilizes trochoidal tool paths. This will enable faster speeds and feeds while reducing load and wear on both the cutter and the machine. What are you using for CAM?
Wicked awesome. This batch already looks more butter.... I mean better. ;)
No worries at all, I like your razzy comments.
Fantastic Video! Thanks For Sharing!
John,
It's been entertaining and educational running through your videos. I picked up a Tormach PCNC 1100 and watching your evolution/progress brought back many memories of shared experiences (e.g. braking bits, hitting bolts fastening down work, etc). Thanks for sharing.
Question: How much clearance did you have between the end of you drill bit when it punched through your fixture and the surface of your vacuum table?
-Shane
Been watching your videos over the last couple weeks. I noticed that you never mention or talk about maintenance or issues with the Tormach.
Have you had any issues with it and what type of maintenance have you had to do to it?
About how many machine hrs/run time do you have on it?
Looking to get into cnc and from what I can tell this appears to be a decent machine.
Also get a heater for your shop, may help on your winter colds.
Thanks
At 16:00 I thought your end mill was going to go right though the bolt. Lol
John, did you remember?? No thumb studs on my knife!
Still in my head ;-). Soon.
awesome brother!! u still workin on the integral?
Thanks! They start at $450 USD.
np any time. I should use that masters degree every now and then. lol
John,did you try water jet for the blanks?
No such thing :-). We do have a fixed blade called the Tor, it's sort of like the Norseman I guess. It's $200.
John I always wondered where does the water go ? Do you have a drain in the garage ? Just curious. Lol. Thanks.
Hey John, Were would you recommend for heat treatment services? Iv got VERY small batches of blades that need a heat treat.
Great work guys - one question, as i think it's such a cool piece what do you think of the nirk tighe. The custom lockback is wicked cool !. Untill next time :)
On camera mic, it sounds worst when I'm standing right above it and talking, not so bad when I'm in front of it talking towards it. I haven't done any audio tweaks except for lowering the volume for all the loud machining parts. It would be nice to record better audio for all the talking parts.
They are easier to build. If I remember rightly John wanted the Norseman to be button lock originally but changed to frame lock when he realised how difficult it would be. Sorry to contradict you but i think button locks are stronger and more reliable than frame locks. This is just my opinion. Il carry out a mechanical analysis and find out for sure :)
Erik (the ginger) thinks that gingers DO have souls! But that's the extent of my south park knowledge, I'm more of a simpsons/family guy guy.
Big vertical in a sound enclosure is my current plan.
how many blades bevels (both sides) can be cut per rotation of the inserts?
thanks John!
On your fireplug end mill what's the specs you run at vs lakeshore specs?
Hey john nice video, have always been a fan of your work! Quick question if you dont mind, what camera do you use when filming? Thanks
Where did you get that roughing endmill? Lakeshore Carbide?
Outside it's -14*C, in the shop it's maybe 5*C.