Weld 4 little tabs to the bottom 1/4x1 that should hold the top in place and be lineup when you have to replace the lining. The way the forges are built it will be quite awhile before they need it. Fantastic Job.
Another great thing about not attaching the top of the forge to the floor is you can make it taller by lifting it up and making walls out of fire brick
@oldhickoryforge Hey John, just chiming in again - I built one of these with a 9" ribbon burner (also based off of your video) three years ago and it is a beast and I love it - thank you for the video! I forge weld and do damascus (hand-hammered) billets all the time in it and it's just a beast. I am actually going to build another one using PID-controlled venturi burners as a gas-fired heat treat kiln. I can't say enough good things about this build and I always reference this video when people ask about my forge.
The more I weld the better my grinder skills get. I’ve been welding off and on for 40 years and it never fails when I’m out of practice I feel like my 4 year old grand daughter could do a better job. She is awfully bright but I don’t think she’s ever run a bead 😁
Awesome work. Quick tips from a refractory engineer: 1. Paint your forge High temp silver (it reduces heat loss) . 2 Ask for Non-RCF blanket, it costs more, but is safer to use.
You're a refractory engineer then, or passing on advice from one you know? Even if the latter and you can easily contact them, I'd love to know what exactly NC Forges are insulated with (I was sent an SDS for I think "fibervision" by an NC Tool rep but lost the email last year) and how worried I should be if I keep a NIOSH P100 respirator on. Mine, a Whisper Momma model relined just last year, is breaking down JUST like the "cotton candy" you see blankets turn into if uncoated, yet various Ph.D's on the big facebook groups insist whatever this crap is is safe. THANKS!
Useful tip, A sacrificial piece of stainless plate on the floor while welding will save the floor lining from being ate away from flux. I use this method and works great. Thought I’d mention it since this is a brand new build.
Nice build! Looks like its pretty insulated. I just built one kind a similar but I went with IFB's + refractory instead of wool. The best thing I put on the new forge is the door on the front that hangs from a track and slides using pulley wheels. No more bricks falling on the floor when you move them the wrong way! 👍🏻 (I did a video on it if your curious)
Weld a hinge on the side away from the air/fuel supply. Can be lifted open and relined, but won't torque open from the weight. Great looking forge by the way.
A bar of steel strapped to fuel pipe to act as a leg. Four latches bolted to keep the two haves together to stop any twisting. May your new never let you down.
I used your ribbon burner video to make my burner while building my forge. Very helpful. It is much larger than a propane tank and I can still weld without a problem. Keep up the good work, enjoy your videos.
This is perfect timing, I was looking to build a new forge almost exactly like the one you are building, I look forward to seeing how it works out for you
I built my forge with a door on the front so the whole thing opens up. Makes repairs pretty easy. I really like the 2 piece design. Seems like repairs would be even easier and it comes apart if you need to move it around. If you do get some heat loss at the seams you could put a layer of wool in between the 2 halves to fill any gaps. Anyway, great design.
Man, this video is perfectly timed. I've been planning to build a gas forge to get a more uniform heat treatment on some swords I have planned (my coal forge, while large, is tough to get uniform heat on a long piece - I am in the process of building an air manifold for it to see if I can elongate the hot spot, but I want a secondary gas forge anyway). I was going to do a venturi forge, but ran across your ribbon burner how-to a day or two ago and now this! You just earned a new subscriber!
I watched this video to see how the plumbing us done, but it wasnt on here. I'm really just curious as to the orifice size of the propane pipe into the air pipe.
Nice job thanks- you may want to consider investing in a whole room air scrubber/ cleaner. There not that expensive and will make things cleaner for your lungs and home. Just a thought. But man that’s a nice forge.
i was amazed at how much the top half of my two piece forge pulled back from one side when it was nice and hot and the returned to normal when cold. i'm in the same boat - why permanently affix if i don't have to? i ended up tacking each corner and it still would break the tacks and filling the crack with some high temp refract repair cement. it's essentially the same design as yours with the top mounted ribbon burner but a rounded dome instead of rectangular like yours. i was worried about the flame rotation with a rectangular cavern. looks awesome when it's not a shaky hand and a cut off disc like i get to look at!
Awesome, me and my dad are loking to make our own ribbon burner. Can you do a video on that antique drill press behind you in last minute of video. haven't seen any reviews on them.
Why not get 4 to 6 latches to hold the 2 halves together. It will prevent it from coming apart due to weight and prevent the halves from shifting...just a thought
Hi, I watched your video and tried the link for your facebook page and the one for smith-custom with no luck. I'd really like the dimensions of your forge.
How did this particular set up work for you? Does the square shape make much of a difference? I’m looking at building my first forge and trying to figure out if the propane tank would be better? I will be making a ribbon burner as well. I went to school for welding after the army so I do like the square because more welding! Thank you
I know there is debate about thick vs. thin refractory pours. Obviously you land on the thick side. would you care to elaborate on the reasoning for your preference? Do you think durability outweighs (ha!) the additional heat absorption and heating time (fuel expenditure)? Also, you you use some form of additional flooring to protect from flux? Fire brick? kiln shelf?
About 1/2-3/4 of an inch seems to be the sweet spot for my personal preference. Just stands up longer without needing repair or re lining. Whenever I need to forge weld I put a sacrificial fire brick floor in the forge.
Not sure I follow? Is there some way to make the dimensions a downloadable file of some sort? I basically just drew up the dimensions in a notebook and my buddy with the CNC put it all into a CAD file
@@OldHickoryForge Wishing I went your route with a two piece build. I over engineered it, which is a problem with us Combat Engineers. A hand drawn sketch with measurements scanned to PDF would be just fine. I don't have a CNC, but if i did, I'd probably break it the first day or flick the computer across the room at a high rate of speed trying to figure out CAD.
What I’ve read from the website Iforgeiron is that adding a reflecting coat over the kastolite (they recommend something called plistex) will help reflect some of that heat back into itself. I mean.. your forge seems to do just fine without it but what do you think? Maybe it would be even more efficient?
Nice 2 piece! I was wondering if the refractory holds in well without pins? or did you weld in some pins. Also if you don't mind, what was the height of the forge. Thanks
Is the burner loosely connected to the ceiling/top so it could be replaced or worked on later if needed? Has the two piece setup worked out like you want? Building up new forge and this design seems to be a good way to go, just a bit smaller. The smaller burner looks like it did well in this size forge. good job on this one....
When casting the forge top section, how long did you let the top/burner part set before you finished the sides? Was concerned about the two adhering together if u waited very long or over nite...Lots of trivial questions, I know...
Tig welding will get you the results. If you buy a big cylinder it prob would not even be that more expensive. I love to tig but I only use it on stuff I want to look well not like your welds. Lol
Awesome John. Just ordered myself a ribbon burner forge. How does it compare to propane usage compared to normal propane forge? Going from a 2 burner NC to that ribbon burner.
@@OldHickoryForge Thanks John. Appreciate the reply and the videos. Keep up the good work. Did you put anything special on the floor for welding with flux?
At the basics forced air ribbon or standard are better than venturi as you have complete control over fuel/air mix so can always run reducing or such. The main difference though between ribbons and forced air burners is diffusion of heat across a space. Example being if you have three burners in a row you will see three hot spots directly across where as a ribbon the whole area of the burner is a less concentrated hot spot as its spread out over the many outlets. There is some other nuances to it but heating a bigger area will heat the forge quicker than concentrating the heat in one spot and it spreading from there.
@@arthifflaw thanks man, that's makes a ton of sense. My forge isn't that big so I guess that's why it's not really an issue for me. It's good info to consider when I upgrade eventually. Thanks again
I’ve used mizzou and kastolite 30. I prefer kastolite just because it’s a tiny bit easier to work with. In terms of performance I haven’t found a difference between the two
@@johncannon3593 you can also look into a guard device that works on mig and tig type guns, shields one hand from direct rays. No good for stick jobs, you might want to also check your neck cover, any bare arms above gloves should also be covered.. a pain on hot days but saves a scalpel a few years later.
Okay John. Just a reminder about safety. Be sure to wear leather gloves when welding. The sparks and UV, are bad. After 43 years of experience in the industry, it's not worth the pain
Weld 4 little tabs to the bottom 1/4x1 that should hold the top in place and be lineup when you have to replace the lining. The way the forges are built it will be quite awhile before they need it. Fantastic Job.
Damn that’s smart. Anyone building one like this listen to this ^
Mr. Cannon I'll answer your question on my next video so be sure and watch on my channel.
Another great thing about not attaching the top of the forge to the floor is you can make it taller by lifting it up and making walls out of fire brick
@oldhickoryforge Hey John, just chiming in again - I built one of these with a 9" ribbon burner (also based off of your video) three years ago and it is a beast and I love it - thank you for the video! I forge weld and do damascus (hand-hammered) billets all the time in it and it's just a beast. I am actually going to build another one using PID-controlled venturi burners as a gas-fired heat treat kiln.
I can't say enough good things about this build and I always reference this video when people ask about my forge.
The more I weld the better my grinder skills get. I’ve been welding off and on for 40 years and it never fails when I’m out of practice I feel like my 4 year old grand daughter could do a better job. She is awfully bright but I don’t think she’s ever run a bead 😁
Killdozer forge!🔥⚒💪🏻
Sometimes reasonable men must do unreasonable things....like building forges
You made forge welding look so easy
The not like I'm armoring up a bulldoser joke was risky but awesome
Anything worth doing is worth over doing. Moderation is for cowards
That's awesome
🤣🤣🤣
Not like im armoring up a bulldozer 🤣
a proud few will get the reference
Beat me to it! Ha!
@@OldHickoryForge Darn basements. 😉👍
If you ever want to armor a bulldozer ill come help. Could start a killdozer production line
Tread on those who tread on you.
Just as i was about to build a forge, following your old design. Sweet!
Awesome work. Quick tips from a refractory engineer: 1. Paint your forge High temp silver (it reduces heat loss) . 2 Ask for Non-RCF blanket, it costs more, but is safer to use.
You're a refractory engineer then, or passing on advice from one you know? Even if the latter and you can easily contact them, I'd love to know what exactly NC Forges are insulated with (I was sent an SDS for I think "fibervision" by an NC Tool rep but lost the email last year) and how worried I should be if I keep a NIOSH P100 respirator on. Mine, a Whisper Momma model relined just last year, is breaking down JUST like the "cotton candy" you see blankets turn into if uncoated, yet various Ph.D's on the big facebook groups insist whatever this crap is is safe. THANKS!
Useful tip, A sacrificial piece of stainless plate on the floor while welding will save the floor lining from being ate away from flux. I use this method and works great. Thought I’d mention it since this is a brand new build.
I normally will use a sacrificial thin fire brick
Nice build! Looks like its pretty insulated. I just built one kind a similar but I went with IFB's + refractory instead of wool. The best thing I put on the new forge is the door on the front that hangs from a track and slides using pulley wheels. No more bricks falling on the floor when you move them the wrong way! 👍🏻 (I did a video on it if your curious)
I recently watched the video of your forge build and I’m pretty sure I’ll be using some of what I saw when I make my next forge. Well done!
@@chrisrevell6889 Thanks! This was a pretty old comment... I'm assuming you meant the new circular ribbon burner forge.
Weld a hinge on the side away from the air/fuel supply. Can be lifted open and relined, but won't torque open from the weight. Great looking forge by the way.
clever.
8:48 killdozer refrence🤘
That set up looks familiar! Lol
A bar of steel strapped to fuel pipe to act as a leg. Four latches bolted to keep the two haves together to stop any twisting.
May your new never let you down.
I used your ribbon burner video to make my burner while building my forge. Very helpful. It is much larger than a propane tank and I can still weld without a problem. Keep up the good work, enjoy your videos.
I love the one I built for myself. It’s almost identical to your new ones.
"Armoring up a bulldozer" hahayesssss
This is perfect timing, I was looking to build a new forge almost exactly like the one you are building, I look forward to seeing how it works out for you
Beefy. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend forge on God bless. Can't wait to see your next video.
Nicely done sir!
I built my forge with a door on the front so the whole thing opens up. Makes repairs pretty easy. I really like the 2 piece design. Seems like repairs would be even easier and it comes apart if you need to move it around. If you do get some heat loss at the seams you could put a layer of wool in between the 2 halves to fill any gaps. Anyway, great design.
THIS has been on my RADAR for months!
Nice looking forge.
Nice job Mr. Heem- I mean Mr. Norwood...
Nice forge John!
Turned out awesome!!!!
Really good forge build impressive like the forge weld prob the best one I’ve seen from a gas forge
About to give a shot at my first Ribbon burner forge. I have a 30# propane tank that I am going to use. Wish me luck.
Great JOB!! Really like the new forge!! Thanks for sharing Jon!!
Man, this video is perfectly timed. I've been planning to build a gas forge to get a more uniform heat treatment on some swords I have planned (my coal forge, while large, is tough to get uniform heat on a long piece - I am in the process of building an air manifold for it to see if I can elongate the hot spot, but I want a secondary gas forge anyway). I was going to do a venturi forge, but ran across your ribbon burner how-to a day or two ago and now this! You just earned a new subscriber!
Great build. That certainly helps with the finish of my ribbon burner square body forge God bless
Good video, John! Looks like a nice addition to your set up!
Thanks for sharing . Well done
Nice work man!! Simple and supper efficient!!! 🔥🔥🔥❤️👍🏻
Sweet! Great looking forge!
I watched this video to see how the plumbing us done, but it wasnt on here. I'm really just curious as to the orifice size of the propane pipe into the air pipe.
Looks nice
That looks great John!
Well done, great looking forge!
Nice job thanks- you may want to consider investing in a whole room air scrubber/ cleaner. There not that expensive and will make things cleaner for your lungs and home. Just a thought. But man that’s a nice forge.
Nice build
That’s a common design which everyone likes it even myself
i was amazed at how much the top half of my two piece forge pulled back from one side when it was nice and hot and the returned to normal when cold. i'm in the same boat - why permanently affix if i don't have to? i ended up tacking each corner and it still would break the tacks and filling the crack with some high temp refract repair cement. it's essentially the same design as yours with the top mounted ribbon burner but a rounded dome instead of rectangular like yours. i was worried about the flame rotation with a rectangular cavern. looks awesome when it's not a shaky hand and a cut off disc like i get to look at!
Yes just the video I was waiting for
The dozer comment 😂❤
Excellent video. What is the orifice device on the gas inlet between 2” pipe and ball valve shutoff
Awsome!
awesome build john im gonna build a ribbon burner forge this summer maybe if the price is right i can order through your buddy that cut yours
nice forge :)
Where did you mention getting your castalite thats a great price
Great build
Harbison Walker International
Awesome, me and my dad are loking to make our own ribbon burner. Can you do a video on that antique drill press behind you in last minute of video. haven't seen any reviews on them.
Why not get 4 to 6 latches to hold the 2 halves together. It will prevent it from coming apart due to weight and prevent the halves from shifting...just a thought
Thanks for the build video. Still looking at switching to the ribbon burner setup over the venturi. Any builds coming with wrought iron again?
Thanks, John! Can you talk briefly about your forced air set up? I'm just curious how simple or complicated it is.
Nevermind! Just found your original ribbon burner video. Haha. Thanks for all your work!
sweet!
Question: You said you used 10 lb of castable each - just on the floor or in the whole forge? Trying to figure out how much to buy.
She's a beaut.
Hi,
I watched your video and tried the link for your facebook page and the one for smith-custom with no luck. I'd really like the dimensions of your forge.
Did you set up ribbon burner kits looking to upgrade my forge
Excellent! What's the benefit of 2 forges?
Is round better then square? To keep the burner off the material
How did this particular set up work for you? Does the square shape make much of a difference? I’m looking at building my first forge and trying to figure out if the propane tank would be better? I will be making a ribbon burner as well. I went to school for welding after the army so I do like the square because more welding! Thank you
I know there is debate about thick vs. thin refractory pours. Obviously you land on the thick side. would you care to elaborate on the reasoning for your preference? Do you think durability outweighs (ha!) the additional heat absorption and heating time (fuel expenditure)?
Also, you you use some form of additional flooring to protect from flux? Fire brick? kiln shelf?
About 1/2-3/4 of an inch seems to be the sweet spot for my personal preference. Just stands up longer without needing repair or re lining. Whenever I need to forge weld I put a sacrificial fire brick floor in the forge.
What are the dimensions of the fire chamber?
what was the total cost?
If I may ask, what angle grinder were you using in the video? I'm in the market for a new one after the old one gave itself a Viking burial.
All of my angle grinders are dewalt except for my one big 4hp skil grinder
Hey mate, gday from Australia. What are your forge dimensions?
Got the length and width from your angle iron cuts, just need overall height and door openings..cheers
Hey john, why are you putting the kaowool in the walls instead of filling it with the refractory cement ?
John or Jon?
Maybe I missed it but how thick is your ceramic fire blanket?
John, are you going to offer the plan on your Patreon?
Not sure I follow? Is there some way to make the dimensions a downloadable file of some sort? I basically just drew up the dimensions in a notebook and my buddy with the CNC put it all into a CAD file
@@OldHickoryForge Wishing I went your route with a two piece build. I over engineered it, which is a problem with us Combat Engineers. A hand drawn sketch with measurements scanned to PDF would be just fine. I don't have a CNC, but if i did, I'd probably break it the first day or flick the computer across the room at a high rate of speed trying to figure out CAD.
god what u said at 8:50.. that kill dozer guy lmfaoo...
Vary niice! how much?
What I’ve read from the website Iforgeiron is that adding a reflecting coat over the kastolite (they recommend something called plistex) will help reflect some of that heat back into itself. I mean.. your forge seems to do just fine without it but what do you think? Maybe it would be even more efficient?
I’ve never used it. I’m sure it helps some but it won’t be a night and significant difference.
Ah yes the trusty grinder and paint!
Looking good what is the second forge for again? Love it.
It’s just better to have two. That way when one goes down for re lining you don’t have to stop production
I want to make a ribbon burner. Do you save propane by using one?
Nice 2 piece! I was wondering if the refractory holds in well without pins? or did you weld in some pins. Also if you don't mind, what was the height of the forge.
Thanks
Is the burner loosely connected to the ceiling/top so it could be replaced or worked on later if needed? Has the two piece setup worked out like you want? Building up new forge and this design seems to be a good way to go, just a bit smaller. The smaller burner looks like it did well in this size forge. good job on this one....
Yeah there isn't a whole lot holding it in there. But I can't think of a reason it would need to be removed. So far it's doing great 👍🏻
@@OldHickoryForge Thanks. Waiting for kast o lite to get here.
When casting the forge top section, how long did you let the top/burner part set before you finished the sides? Was concerned about the two adhering together if u waited very long or over nite...Lots of trivial questions, I know...
Tig welding will get you the results. If you buy a big cylinder it prob would not even be that more expensive. I love to tig but I only use it on stuff I want to look well not like your welds. Lol
Can you make a video on the ribbon burners?
I have one. Type in “how to build a ribbon burner” and ittl come up right away
Ty!
Nice. I built mine about four years ago. Looks very similar to what I did. Are you running 1 1/2 pipe or 2 inch pipe?
2”
What fan do you use on this forge
3" blower from blacksmiths depot
Just wondering where you found the refractory local? I think i am near you?
Charlotte NC. It’s the only one in the state as far as I know
Where can I buy the actual burner
derosierforge@gmail.com makes them
Awesome John. Just ordered myself a ribbon burner forge. How does it compare to propane usage compared to normal propane forge? Going from a 2 burner NC to that ribbon burner.
I find I get about 20 percent more fun time than I did with my old Venturi forge
@@OldHickoryForge Thanks John. Appreciate the reply and the videos. Keep up the good work. Did you put anything special on the floor for welding with flux?
Do you make blades for sale?
Does anyone know the dimensions for the walls and ends?
John, are ribbon burners more efficient then burners that are forced induction?
At the basics forced air ribbon or standard are better than venturi as you have complete control over fuel/air mix so can always run reducing or such. The main difference though between ribbons and forced air burners is diffusion of heat across a space. Example being if you have three burners in a row you will see three hot spots directly across where as a ribbon the whole area of the burner is a less concentrated hot spot as its spread out over the many outlets. There is some other nuances to it but heating a bigger area will heat the forge quicker than concentrating the heat in one spot and it spreading from there.
@@arthifflaw thanks man, that's makes a ton of sense. My forge isn't that big so I guess that's why it's not really an issue for me. It's good info to consider when I upgrade eventually. Thanks again
What do you use to cast your ribbon burner? And on my two piece I had to squish wool between my seams.. but mine is not nearly as well built as this
I’ve used mizzou and kastolite 30. I prefer kastolite just because it’s a tiny bit easier to work with. In terms of performance I haven’t found a difference between the two
Круто
Bulldozer🚜 😂
Just a small bit of advice, wear gloves on both hands when welding, skin cancer WILL get you from the welding..
Never thought of that. I tend to weld bare-handed. Maybe I'll reconsider. Is it due to the superheated gases or radiation that would affect skin?
@@johncannon3593 the radiation from arc, it's as good as the sun.
@@dougaldhendrick3497 well I might start wearing my gloves then. I never thought of that. Thanks.
@@johncannon3593 you can also look into a guard device that works on mig and tig type guns, shields one hand from direct rays. No good for stick jobs, you might want to also check your neck cover, any bare arms above gloves should also be covered.. a pain on hot days but saves a scalpel a few years later.
Dont feel too bad, 110v flux core will never look nice. Love the killdozer reference
Okay John. Just a reminder about safety. Be sure to wear leather gloves when welding. The sparks and UV, are bad. After 43 years of experience in the industry, it's not worth the pain
If noone got the killdozer reference smh
Whats the point of wearing a dust mask cutting the wool, when you don't use gloves to weld? Just as bad for you.