P1B-1 Sky Voyager - Flight Trimming
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Buy the amazing Sky Voyager here: jhaerospace.com...
Complete build instructions: • P1B-1 Sky Voyager - Co...
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It's not the snakes, mountain lions or bears that worry me. It's those darn ticks.
What a good flyer it is! Even, flat glide, gentle touch down
Mine was also nose heavy and the folded prop hit the wing when trimmed out. Then I noticed a figure in the instructions showing the trapezoidal steel weight is the same shape as the forward hole in the wing support. The weight is shown in that hole. Putting the weight there moves the CG & wing back when trimmed. The folded prop no longer hits the wing and I am getting longer flights. Next I am going up to 1/8 inch rubber. I am thinking about the RC conversion in lieu of a DT.
Glad to hear it's flying well!
Bought one of these to serve as a grandpa/granddaughter project after suffering through an endless round of trying to get a Guillow's gum-band to stay aloft for more than a few seconds. Trust me, these things really FLY! Probably better than most guys without years of experience building competitive free-flight models could accomplish on their own. Still playing with rubber setups (length, strands, etc) but very promising. Couple things to consider... 1) the rudder will probably not maintain it's adjustment from flying session to flying session, or even flight-to-flight, without some sort of positive stop. A small balsa or depron rudder horn and some tiny wire can help with consistency here. 2) Rotating the wing mount in relation to the stab gives the effect of stab tilt. I don't know if free-flighters still use stab tilt in trimming.for glide, but it works. "Something to try." 3) DO consider a dethermalizer of some sort. I haven't rigged one on my "9-going on-19" granddaughter's plane in the full expectation that at some point, she'll experience a fly-away. How she responds to it will tell me whether she's inherited the free-flight gene from her grandpa or not.
If she doesn't ask for a replacement, I'm buying another one for myself. They're THAT good.
My favorite part of the flight is when that prop folds back. I did an rc conversion on one of mine, and its been perfect to teach my niece to fly r/c, and here in central California lots of thermals to be had.
What an awesome little model - the best ARTF free flight model I've ever seen... and it really likes the 'proper' rubber you put in it!
Nice flights. You need a MUCH bigger field. (Don't we all?)
And a new shed. I think that one's past its best!
At risk of de-habitation of the innocent birds, you could cut down some of those tall trees.
In due time ;) they're valuable for their wood so I'm letting them grow a bit.
Rocket man awesome....
You should have named, Caleb, Tayle
Took me a moment...
The tree monster is hungry
Superb plane. Sadly, with shielding and awkward weather, mine sits on my bookshelves, glowering at me. I built it months ago... *sigh
Ugh. Sorry to hear about that. We haven't gotten to attend a flying event since this mess began.
@@joshuawfinn Soon, I hope, we'll be back to normal (whatever that is)
Hi Joshua, thanks for your videos, they are of great help. having some indoor free flying experience, I would like to ask you a question regarding this model motor. Considering 4g of rubber, ow many strands, which size and lenght will be the optimum configuration? thanks in advance for the answer :-)
Great stuff ! Thanks for the info.
It's a shame your in the USA it makes it difficult to order to the UK
I live in the UK, and ordered a bunch of stuff (including a Sky Voyager) from Josh. He was really helpful, and the cost was reasonable. The UK import charges stung a bit, but that's not J&H's fault.
Go on, order. These are some of the nicest folk in the hobby.
I finally managed to get hold of one from China but when it arrived The motor tube was bent like a banana 😢 such a shame perhaps if I put it in very hot water It can be bent straight.
what i made many years ago, was not a rubber powered but a simple glider. body made of trimed bamboo, cartoon wings with bamboo strip on the forward side and plain cartoon tail. I put slits on wings and tails just like a airplain have, a little lead on the tip of the plane and a hook under the front buttom and a sling shot. Just like what you explaine on how you want you toy plain turn left or right when on flight, I bend it a little bit where I want it to go.
One time it was a bit windy, it flied so far that I had to chase it :) Never good when there are tall trees around.
Several questions: my plane was power stalling on launch, so I finally sanded in some downthrust at the orange front “motorblock”, also some right thrust. Previously, it seemed I had just enough right rudder to match the left turn torque under power to create a perfect power stall at launch, the airplane swooping up under power, then a huge stall that would would just worsten under power then continuing in the glide...all this after I had established a nice floaty hand glide w/o stalling...I may need to take a little of the down thrust back out of it after watching your trim video. Once I got a reasonable right turn in the hand glide I spot glued the wing pylon onto the motor tube because every landing was moving (twisting) the front or back pylon post ever so slightly resulting in a different turn radius or even direction on every flight. This makes tweaking impossible, guaranteeing an inconsistent glide pattern...also used the little wooden wing alignment blocks so the wing is nested consistently on the pylon...everything repeats now, so I can make adjustments and get the same results flight to flight...I bought the yellow winder...seems completely overpowered by the torque of two loops of tan 2. I’m flying at dusk with about 350 turns...but feels like the winder teeth are not happy and I’m close to breaking the handle trying to turn the crank...awfully disappointed in this winder...please explain how to transfer the rubber from the winder hook to the motor hook... I nicked my rubber right away sliding the motor hook wire onto the wound rubber at the winder hook...I have no idea how to hold the coiled siliconed rubber well enough to manipulate it onto the motor hook...so winding with the winder is bad, and transferring from the winder hook to the motor hook with 350 turns is worse... please explain what I’m doing wrong...
The better rubber band really performs that much better. I am sold!
very helpful trimming video, thanks
gran cambio de vuelo con las gomas adecuadas..!yo tambien vuelo con fai tan !
Lost my Sky Voyager this morning. :) :( The first flight on a 90% wound 5g motor, 4 strands of 1/8" 150% of hook to peg distance, came down just inside the field perimeter/tree line. The second flight, on the same motor, was wound to 100% and it was still running when it crossed the same tree line at about 100ft, then the prop folded and it continued to climb about another 75 ft before drifting out into the neighbors pasture, too far away to retrieve. I knew the risk but was just happy to see the plane get it's flight wings after many a low power flights and a year of sitting around collecting dust. Great flying model and you can't get much cheaper.
Sad to hear it's gone, but what an awesome story!
Nice design 👌🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
I built a P1B DT per your video using your little dt throttle offered on your website... how can you set on of these things for longer than the motor run, say 2 minutes?
Play around with the rubber tension on the DT to get the rotation slowed down. A single strand of 1/16 will run nice and slow and should let you go out past 2 minutes. The ultimate solution is to use a spring wound from .010" piano wire. I believe Volare Products and Retro RC actually sell preformed tension springs. They give a wonderfully consistent tension curve so you can slow the timer down signal.
What's your rule on motor length? Still 150% hook-to-hook like indoor?
Actually I run 100% on this one. Slack on these tends to cause bunching.
Could you not have moved the wing forward to achieve CoG? Or have I missed something?
Probably he needs the folding blades to clear the wing
The instructions indicate that the wing mount should be 115mm from the nose. That makes sure the wing mount is clear of the folding prop blades.
Have you ever tried to put a micro servo to control the rudder, in order, to prevent losing your best plane ever again?
Funny you should mention that: ua-cam.com/video/Zu5UJynTqUc/v-deo.html
How hard would it be to put a strip of mild metal in the vertical tail to provide stiffness? Or notches in the fuselage to tune angle of the wings?
I'm not a big fan of metal bend tabs although a lot of folks have success with them, so it's something to consider. Same with keying the wings for consistent alignment (I really need to do that on mine).
Im trying the single strand of 1/16 rubber on the DT system and will see if I can get it to actually last for the 2 minutes...I’m an old RC buff, but was in love with hand launch free flight as a teen...built a bunch of Thermic 20 hl gliders and my dad, who was a true free flightier and control line modeler built a Tissue covered Thermic 50... when I saw the first hand test glide from shoulder height smack the across-the-street neighbors roses 150 feet away at waist height I was HOOKED on gliding flight... we also did some small Jetex powered gliders... From 15 years of RC soaring competition I have a good understanding of trimming, washout etc... however my DT knowledge is non existent... I don’t know how that little button thingy even works! Is it oil filled? The other thing I’m curious about is rubber motor turns... is there a chart showing reasonable turns to be expected from various rubber loops... I see that indoor models get a thousand plus turns... On my P1B what’s considered a reasonable full wind? Also do I need a metal o-ring at the prop end of the rubber in order to utilize a winder? I am ignorant about the transfer from winder hook to prop hook? What’s the secret? I have real trouble holding , removing, reinstalling 300 turns without : 1)losing a loop 2) nicking the rubber 3) losing my grip on the whole wound mess 4) yelling at my wife who is holding the fuselage at an awkward angle because I haven’t taken 20 minutes to build a stooge...
Thomas, here's one document with some useful information:
I've got another chart as well but FB won't let me link to it. Shoot me an email at joshuawfinn@gmail.com and I'll send it to you.
That’s a great model
Неплохо летает!
Great video!!! Thanks for posting. :-) :-)
Can I get the plans?
This plane is molded foam and plastic. No sense trying to scratchbuild this. If you're up for building a similar model try an F1B design or similar that's been published
This is my favorite plane. I lost my first one to a tree. I was fiddling around with stab tilt to get it to turn. My full-size flight instructor was always yammering on about the rudder, too.
I'm surprised you need the anchor taped to the nose.
An amazing airplane. Everyone should try one.
Wait til you fly a full scale sailplane...rudder work is super fun on those!
@@joshuawfinn I had the privilege of riding right seat in the EAA Trimotor a couple of years ago. I almost made the passengers in the cabin sick with my enthusiastic rudder work. Actually, they said "they could tell" when I was flying. Pretty sure it wasn't a compliment!
@@kenkingsflyingmachines2382 compliment or not I'm jealous!
Beautiful 😎