Chem Dip is usually used for soaking carburetors, and there's some things about is. What you are showing here looks to be the "add to" can. It's for the 5gal Dip Bucket (w/parts basket). Reason I bring this up, is the 5gal bucket only has about 25% of the actual Chemical in it. The top part 75% of the bucket is oil that floats on top to keep it from evaporating. The "add-to" can that you have there is about 75% Chem & 25% (anti-evap) Oil. If you pour the stuff from the top of either of these, it won't do much (because it's just oil) you have to pull the stuff from the bottom to get the "good stuff". The "good stuff" hiding in the bottom of these, actually eats metals. Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black. Also you have to Neutralize it when you pull it out of the "Dip" buy washing it all with HOT water, other wise it will etch itself into the aluminum. It's why our wash basin is near the Carburetor bench in the shop, so we can pull a carb out and immediately scrub it down with hot water. That all being said, be very careful with this stuff. Even with full PPE on, and thick rubber sleeved gloves, when I do a Carburetor I smell like carb cleaner for a couple days, and it turns your pee pink. It absorbs into anything made of Carbon, and we all are Carbon Based Lifeforms.
" Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black". Yep, learned that the hard way back in 1980. Tough lesson for a 16 year old buying his own parts LOL.
Good to know on the safety side. I’m usually pretty brazen with the chemicals except for MEK, gas & methanol, turps…some things scare me enough to make sure I’m well protected. Gas is one most people don’t even bother with, but get enough of that shit soaking into your skin or breathing it in…not good. It’s probably less the fuel itself and more the additives, but regardless, I quit using it to clean shit a long time ago.
The best thing to clean carbon is dot 4 brake fluid. Leave it to soak for about 20 minutes and wipe it away with a cloth. Brings up piston crowns like new.
What would happen if you would put a Couple of ounces into the Gas Tank. Or is Marvel Oil Better to Clean the top Pistons without Disassembling the Engine.
Chem-Dip has phosphoric acid in it... That's why the 4 hour limit on soaking aluminum parts. Unless you want to etch or destroy thin aluminum part sections. Always wash Chem-Dip off with water to dilute and remove it from the surface. It will continue to eat aluminum surfaces if just wiped off.
I looked up the Chem-dip MSDS - it contains no acids, phosphoric or otherwise. As expected, it is caustic (pH 10-11), which is why you can't leave it on aluminum too long.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Chem-Dip, Tyme, and Gunk have all changed their formulas over the last dozen years or so. Thank California's Proposition 65 for that. The old stuff worked much better....but wasn't up to California standards and the manufacturers would rather make just one product instead of two. If the current stuff only works part way, it's guaranteed you'll buy more of it to get the job done. Be it a base or an acid, it's rough on aluminum. I stand corrected.......
That was informational AND entertaining. Its amazing how many ppl make comments about things u said u would be addressing in a later video. I gave a thumbs up. Then i took my wife's phone and rewatched it with another 👍! You deserve more subs for the work u put in.
Oh trust me this product does remove carbon ! Very toxic shit you do not want to leave on your skin or your skin will blister if left on too long I had that happen
I’m a marine engineer. I’ve been using brake fluid for years . I’ve brought old engines back by putting a few ounce’s down the spark plug holes and letting it sit overnight. On 350 chevy marine engine wouldn’t start due to lack of compression and after one treatment it started right up and ran fine.
Yeah, we were doing this back in the 70’s using the 25gal. Drums of chemical, we called it cold tanking or cold dip as opposed to the hot tank we used for steel and iron. So, it’s not really an experiment, it’s a well established practice.
Yeah see, back in the 70s there was all sorts of fun chemical stuff nobody really thought much about touching and inhaling that did a great job, but there’s this thing we have nowadays that everybody from that era seems to have, it’s called cancer...
That Berryman is very potent. I run the fuel injector gas treatment in my car. It had a tiny amount of liquid on the bottom of the can. I set the can on my trunk for less than a minute. Ate through the clear coat and paint.. Imagine how well it cleans the injectors.
Full strength Simple Green works for carbon removal. Over night soak and 90% of the baked on carbon wipes off with a rag. Stubborn carbon may need a second soaking to remove. Simple Green is cheap from Big Box Stores and is safe to use. I have used Simple Green on several engine heads and pistons with good results.
@@falsem1nd use Simple Green HD (the purple one) if you use it on aluminum. I just used it this weekend for my aluminum LS cylinder heads and I let it sit in there for six hours, took it out to brush them down, then rinse and repeat that step 4 or so times. A day later, they're almost like 90%+ clean.
Next time you need to clean carbon, try dot 4 brake fluid. Put it on a cloth and start wiping. It immediately starts melting carbon. No soaking required
I used to have a very precious man do all the valve jobs in my aluminum heads he would put the heads in a big tank of carburetor cleaner and they will come out like brand new the only man I trusted with doing valve jobs and all my aluminum stuff back in the day lot of Fiats with burnt exhaust valves actually made a special l Socket wrench just to torque the head bolts without taking a cam tower off
Some chemicals can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" in aluminum, this could be why the company does not want the product left on too long. We had problems in the Air Force with some chemical cleaner / degreasers that were not approved by the manufacturer used on our F-16's and had to have some skin removed and replaced.
Seriously Thank You for Your Service to our County its Super Appreciated!! Unfortunately in many cases UNDER APPRECIATED by the media! BUT THANK YOU!! Could you provide a bit more in the details? Nothing that would get you in trouble but im curious. Thanks Again! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Had A 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6 cylinder engine and from the travel to work or home again (about five miles) it would "PING" like crazy. Finally pulled the head off and every piston had a layer of fuzzy black carbon. Had I had this stuff you showed I would of used it. Instead of working for a weekend to remove the carbon and reseat all the valves and other seals and gaskets and adjustments. Really cool man what that stuff does.
It *can* etch certain aluminum parts if left in too long as it says on the can; however I have left small carburetors in it for a week with no effect other than super clean.
Since the head is off, why not just disassemble it (remove valves) and clean it entirely? I think you'll find significant carbon under the valve heads and/or in the intake/exhaust ports, especially if that engine is is direct injected. With the head disassembled, you'll also have access to inspect for any valve, valve seat or valve guide wear, as well as the head sealing surface for flatness.
Yo guys, just use Easy Off oven cleaner. Carbon comes off with a wipe if you leave for 5 min. Don’t waste your money on this Chem-Dip stuff. Legit cheaper.
Lightning Cleaner is what I found unreal for removing baked on carbon the VW cylinder head in a water mixture (1:1)soaking for 8hrs then rinsed it off with tap water (no scrubbing) for a bright shiny finish.
For BEST results, use MR CLEAN (the bright GREEN type, and NOT the light Blue type)! Just SOAK OVERNIGHT and hose off next day. Best thing is, Mr CLEAN will NOT DAMAGE metal or rubber parts like the valve stem seals or rubber gaskets. Best product I have ever used .
Someone else has discovered my magic in a can. I knew about this stuff nearly 15 yrs ago when the can it was delivered in was white at least for the Gunk version, which are probably the same chemical with a different label. I put oil/carbon baked internal engine parts in it and let them sit over night and couldn't believe the as new cast appearance they came out with. Advance auto is where I get mine and usually they have a 25% off coupon floating around somewhere to sweeten the deal, especially now given how the price has increased by about $10 to $28. I would advise sparing use because of how expensive it is. Apply a smaller amount to soften build up on large parts like cylinder heads and use a cheap secondary cleaner and high pressure water spray to finish the job. You don't want to end up paying the same price for cleaning at home that it would cost to just drop the parts off at a shop. A good high pressure washer might do a very effective job and eliminate the use of chemicals altogether for this job and any future for the cost of the machine and low cost for water as the cleaning solution. Another old time favorite for removing a lot of the crud is Easy Off oven cleaner, just be careful not to use it on aluminum with delicate surfaces (cylinder heads, alum blocks) that need microscopic smoothness.
there is a mild version of easy off i use.. but for the hard baked on stuff & on cast iron i use tergo industrial paint stripper... just not on ali gasket surfaces
I've been using this stuff for 30+ years and it's awesome stuff. There's no real need to scrub but I've found it works best when it's around 100 to 110 degrees F. It removes carbon, grease, paint, etc. About the only thing it won't remove is rust or corrosion. One caveat; the "environmentally friendly" Chem Dip is much less effective. The good stuff comes in a 5 gallon bucket and comes with a parts basket.
Thank you, next time I have ot do this to a head I know what works best. I used carb cleaner in a spray can. I pokes a hole in the can and drained it out and poured it into the head area and let is soak over night. The next morning I used a tooth brush and clean it and like you had a clean head. Your method looks like it did a better job over all with less scrubbing.
I've been using Chemdip since the early 80's to clean gunked-up carbs. Great stuff that had a very unique smell. I haven't found anything that works as fast or as good as that stuff.
@@a.m.7060 Thanks, one day I will try it. For cleaning an engine that isn't disassembled and still runs I use some stuff called Kreen Motor Tonic by Kano Labs. You add some to the gas & oil and it dissolves carbon, gunk, the varnish from the rings, and cleans the entire fuel system. It can be used on cars, boats, motorcycles, aircraft, or any gas or diesel engine. I used it in an engine that had to be rebuilt after 50,000 miles and it was remarkably clean internally. It's way better than Sea Foam or any other similar product. See: www.kroil.com/order-kroil-products/
Hey Thanks for the Tip! It's Super Appreciated. Kroil seriously sells a lot of Great sounding products!!! Somewhat unfortunately I can't just run-up to my local auto parts store I'll have to order it as its not sold in my local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. You'd think a company thats been around since the late 1930's selling chems for auto repair shops would be in ever Auto Parts store but than again there are not a lot of Rolls-Royce dealerships everywhere. Thinking about it Rolls-Royce was a fantastic auto manufacturer they need to go back to making thier own drive-trains again with a bit of BMW'S performance influence. Thanks again Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Really? So the heat and pressure inside the cylinders is no stronger than gravity acting on a little liquid? Horse apples. That seal you are imagining is likely more carbon baked onto the valves & seats. Reinvent something else, 'cause this wheel has been done.
There are 2 grades of Chem Dip. Standard and Professional. You know you have the good stuff if it makes your shop wreak forever, the other doesn't do much.
The solvent breaks down aluminum. I once forgot a rack of MC carbs in a Saftety Klean tank (about 30 years ago) overnite and they were brittle as hell the next morning.
Simple green... That's all you need. I mix it 4 to 1 with water. If you soak your parts overnight then rinse with strong water pressure everything looks new. Non corrosive and very mild on your hands..
U should always stuff ur piston skirts w rags, or and nvr alloww them to bang off the rod as it could start a stress crack and lead to a catastrophic failure in which ur puzzled by what what wrong.... just a tip from an old man
Oh yes remember that beautiful gasoline when it was pink full of lead and octane cleaned many many car parts with gasoline back in the Day love the smell of that pink gasoline...
Back in the ‘70s EVERYONE rebuilt engines or swapped ! I got my azzzz whooped because I always found the oil drain bucket or the engine cleaning tub ! NEVER FAILED ! About 2005ish I was in a private parking lot some guy blew out transmission fluid everywhere THE PLACE CALLED A “HAZMAT TEAM “! That was a little much!
If this was like the can of Gunk parts dip I bought 20 years ago, you wouldn't be leaving it sitting out in the open. The smell would drive you out of the shop (heavy creosote smell). You dropped what ever you wanted in the basket, and closed the lid as quickly as possible. If any splashed on your skin, be prepared for it to stink for the next 2 days.
3m throttle body and carb cleaner works way faster and honestly better. Maybe a little more expensive but you can move to the next step instead of waiting hours. That's a pro tech tip kids.
Retired 40 years heavy const. equipment, heavy carbon build up in exhaust area soak heads in old 50/50 mix antifreeze loosens heavy carbon to chunks that washes away w/ steam or high pressure washer. Try it with a exhaust valve see what u think. Clean parts well and lube well w. oil. Antifreeze not good so cleaning is important but you were going to clean and lube your parts anyway, right? I have not ever lost any engines by doing this. Do not let your cat or dog lick the parts, poison LOL.
The warning is made due to linings and (aluminum hydrogen enbattlement. never soak aluminum long in it.)that may be present since it's a parts cleaner not a specific internal or external motor parts cleaner. You don't want to clean carburetor internal parts with it. Per my brother who was a mechanic before his death in 2010. He taught what I do know about motors. He worked on everything from cars, tractors to diesel trucks for 40 yrs. He was fascinated by modern motors and electronics. Always learning new technologies. That I know of there was nothing that guy could not do. I sure miss him working on my vehicles.. the man was a genius with motors. Love your videos. If you bought it a truck driver delivered it. Happy 2022 to you and yours.😁
Aluminum and Brass can literally disolve in Acidic Solutions like this. That's why you have to keep it under 4 hrs. Our Machine shop does the same with Acid Bath, but Iron motor blocks can stay in a lot longer
Berryman makes a product called B12 Chemtool. I put 1 can in my 98 k1500 5.7 vortec, every other tank full of 90 octane 0 ethanol. Cleans carbon on valves pistons and injectors. Purrs like a kitten.
I use to disassemble and throw the whole bare head in a 5gal bucket and go to lunch, hour later I come back and pull them out and took a power washer to them. Makes heads look like brand new every time. Now days the shit is to expensive to buy like that. Purple industrial cleaner from lowes will clean them up, but you cant let it sit on the aluminum to long, it will eat it.
Yup, Starting fluid. Have your air ready to blow it and contaminants away. Otherwise, the fluid just moves it to a different place and evaporates. Don't be smokin' either.
The carbon on the exhaust valve gets a lot hotter, and will turn to "glass", same thing that cause "splash fouling "of plugs when an engine is run at high speed after carbon build up. Probably need to chip it off.
The 4 hours or less time limit for aluminum is so they take no damage. In the old days at engine shop if you acid dipped aluminum head for more then an hour no need to retrieve it because it will dissolve away. yes it will melt into liquid with the right chemicals over time. so dont do this is you are tired cause if you fall asleep and leave it on to long you got parts to buy.
its a good sign when the chemical doesn't drain out right away too, that is a nice engine to rebuild. I don't know a whole lot, but the fact those valves still seal tightly even carbon coated is a good thing. Honda power :-)
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for engine parts. I only use water with a little dish soap for a few reasons. 1 being as far as ur every day degreasers go I’ve tried them all none worked any faster or better. 2 When you use chemicals they can damage coatings on the pistons, the valve seals and some are bad for aluminum. 3 You can buy some chemicals/cleaners made for ultrasonic cleaning that will clean faster but they are expensive and the water cleans just as good so a part that takes 30 minutes with good chemicals might take 90 minutes. But if ur not using it every day no sense in using anything but water I mean for under a few hundred bucks you buy the machine then dont need to buy anymore chemicals again for cleaning.
Chem dip is the best, especially if you get the original formula, before they made a Cali approved one. It’s still available , just have to look for it. The reason on the aluminum time limit is it will actually start to attack it if left too long. Small pitting can occur. The same can happen with simple green on aluminum. Limit contact time and clean thoroughly.
Sounds like what happened when P&G / Cascade changed thier formula back in either the late 1990's thru the early 2000's if im correct. Now Cascade eats at any aluminum.
Just wondering how you neutralized this stuff? Did you just hose it down with water? I feel like a film/trace amount would still be left over, and it would need to be removed, still think it's a great product though pretty impressed with how quickly it cleaned everything.
So, by "rebuilt" you mean: partially disassemble, clean, maybe new bearings, new rings and gaskets? No crank turning, rod reconditioning, boring and honing, no valve face, seat, or guide work, no resurfacing or balancing?
It’s been awhile since I’ve used Berryman but i think it might say since 1928 on the can. Very aggressive stuff. It says don’t get it on your paint and I’ve learned the hard way to take great care as to not let this stuff get on your paint. Lol. Great video and nice project.
Usually, degreasers are very Akali and will oxidize aluminum, hence the time limit. NOT my area of expertise, but I think it would be a good idea to neutralize. Happy to be corrected by someone with more knowledge. Thanks
You sir are a genius! Walnut blasting intake valves is ridiculous. There has to be a "solution" for this god awful procedure which my chevy dealers in town have no idea about but sell gdi cars. My cobalt ss turbo needs intake valve cleaning desperately. I am going to try this. THANK YOU! I will let you know how it works.
Paint reducer or "grow" wax and grease remover also removes it fast, dont even have to soak it for a while, just scrub it with a brass brush, and everything is clean within minutes.. I just built an f23, and currently also building an f22 like you.haha
The reason they say 4 hours is it will begin to deteriorate the aluminum. A friend used a can I had to clean his motorcycle carb. Forgot about it for 4 days. Was nothing left but a small piece the main body. Turned it to dust.
The Berryman B-12 Chemtool is good- see the Project Farm comparison videos. It made the spark plugs look the cleanest when added to the gasoline, compared to the others.
I'll seriously check out the video your suggesting as I just bought a 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 93k and dealer serviced. If im say running to my local 7-11 during the night and punch it with a vehicle behind me I see a lot of carbon blowing out. I was thinking of using my favorite goto Seafoam spray to fog the intake and valves as its helped my other trucks and cars. Can this be sprayed into the intake like Seafoam spray top engine cleaner? Thanks for any advice its super appreciated! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@eddiej.2354 SeaFoam isn't a very good solvent, but it does one thing very well, soften the carbon at the valve faces. Berryman's B12 isn't intended as an induction solvent. B12 is far superior for dissolving carbon, however, but I wouldn't try it as an induced one.
Good to know. Will be removing a head soon so I will give this a try. Looks much easier than what I have done on previous heads. Another benefit is you know the valves are sealing properly.
Even better than chem dip is Permatex Spray-On gasket remover. Smells kind of strong from what I remember, but still better than ez-off. Permatex Spray-On gasket remover, I promise.
So can you pour chemdip into the cylinders to clean out carbon without rebuilding the engine? Then suck it out and cycle the engine with no spark plugs. Change the oil? Put fresh oil and run a bit and change again?
Cool . Can you use this product while the heads are still on the car . Kind of like seafoam . It clearly works wonders as many other product don't do half as good and clame to .
If you have a few days to clean it, wd 40 every 6 or 10 hours just spray more on it. After 5 or 6 Days the stuff will look brand new. You don't even have to scrub it. Just keep adding wd 40. Idk why it works but it just dissolves carbon and it disappears. I just did a 302 and the pistons were caked and pitch black. I did this for 3 days and they are now shiny like new and scrubbing them with steel wool the first day didn't even get through the first layer of buildup. I'm be don't this method with my shit forever now. It was effortless.
@@mfree80286 Funny you mention that. I am doing zinc plating on a bunch of old motorcycle parts and have a lye solution for removing grease before plating. I put a wheel spacer into the lye and forgot about it for a week and it was totally deteriorated. Now I need to find one and its for a vintage bike.
True, but he s not cooking crack..... Not sure why he needed that rebuild and what made him do it, I see it as a good thing repairing your own crap and do your own thing.... Make your own dissicions and your mistakes and once in a while a victory or two..... You can feel the satisfaction when it fires up again
Great video. Word to the wise, those blue gloves are not chemical resistant. That stuff has some nasty chemicals that will absorb through your skin and into your bloodstream, even through those gloves. Be careful about that.
Great Tip!! Any suggestions on shop gloves? I've seen my mechanic using black looking latex gloves but just figured it was just a different color of glove.
Usually it sits in a container until someone spills it somehow and then a bunch of shop towels clean it up, the local rag gypsy picks em up, they are taken to be washed and then you get to drink em at some point after your sewage plant turns turds and chemdry into H2O
If you heat it up it works better. Not boiling hot just warm enough touch. Used this for all carb rebuilds and Exhaust brake butterfly's that were sized up.The youth trying to claim what has already been long ago used.
Question 2006 xc90 changed 2 valves 5 sliders fall out of and not sure if I put them on right places Does it matter and how to check if they are over corresponding valve can you help me, please. Your Video is great explains all in clear detail
It's not that the aluminum has any kind of coating on it. It's that some chemicals, especially acidic ones, can dissolve aluminum, causing pits in the part. Too, electrolysis (a battery-like action) can occur between dissimilar metals such as aluminum and steel just from having pure water between them. If allowed to continue, it will eventually perforate the aluminum. I've seen that. Some chemicals intensify electrolysis, others, like antifreeze, inhibit it. Chorine bleach will eat holes in a stainless steel sink. I've seen that, too. That's, most likely, the reason for the four hour time limit.
I Agree 100% It's like the original version of Cascade dishwasher powder from earlier then the 1995 or 2000 till someone at Cascade changed the formula it was AWESOME on any aluminum bake ware like my toaster over tray. It would come out almost new looking but again since someone at P&G / Cascade changed the formula now that same tray or any aluminum tray or pot comes out of the dishwasher looking like someone sprayed black primer paint on it and extremely dull looking. Hopefully the Chem he used to clean the carbon off the heads are not like Cascade case he will see pitting eventually on the parts. Yes, I like to cook lol Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Chem Dip is usually used for soaking carburetors, and there's some things about is. What you are showing here looks to be the "add to" can. It's for the 5gal Dip Bucket (w/parts basket). Reason I bring this up, is the 5gal bucket only has about 25% of the actual Chemical in it. The top part 75% of the bucket is oil that floats on top to keep it from evaporating. The "add-to" can that you have there is about 75% Chem & 25% (anti-evap) Oil. If you pour the stuff from the top of either of these, it won't do much (because it's just oil) you have to pull the stuff from the bottom to get the "good stuff".
The "good stuff" hiding in the bottom of these, actually eats metals. Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black. Also you have to Neutralize it when you pull it out of the "Dip" buy washing it all with HOT water, other wise it will etch itself into the aluminum. It's why our wash basin is near the Carburetor bench in the shop, so we can pull a carb out and immediately scrub it down with hot water.
That all being said, be very careful with this stuff. Even with full PPE on, and thick rubber sleeved gloves, when I do a Carburetor I smell like carb cleaner for a couple days, and it turns your pee pink. It absorbs into anything made of Carbon, and we all are Carbon Based Lifeforms.
" Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black". Yep, learned that the hard way back in 1980. Tough lesson for a 16 year old buying his own parts LOL.
Thanks!
👍🏼😊👍🏼
I wouldn't have known..🤔
Good to know on the safety side. I’m usually pretty brazen with the chemicals except for MEK, gas & methanol, turps…some things scare me enough to make sure I’m well protected. Gas is one most people don’t even bother with, but get enough of that shit soaking into your skin or breathing it in…not good. It’s probably less the fuel itself and more the additives, but regardless, I quit using it to clean shit a long time ago.
I was reading the website and yes the smaller gallon cans are worse for Aluminum....and to the Pink Pee....Hell NO! Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you for the advice. Very helpful!
The best thing to clean carbon is dot 4 brake fluid. Leave it to soak for about 20 minutes and wipe it away with a cloth. Brings up piston crowns like new.
Thanks, I'll have to try that
What would happen if you would put a Couple of ounces into the Gas Tank.
Or is Marvel Oil Better to Clean the top Pistons without Disassembling the Engine.
@@MB1Billion wouldn't hurt
Really? Wow gotta learn how to open the top engine and gotta try that
Dave Leighton, thanks for the tip!
That also checks for bent valves as it cleans. If you come back to it and 1 chamber is a lot lower than it was, there you go.
Bent valves is an unlikely cause of combustion chamber leak. More likely the valve to valve face seal needs to be corrected.
Chem-Dip has phosphoric acid in it... That's why the 4 hour limit on soaking aluminum parts. Unless you want to etch or destroy thin aluminum part sections. Always wash Chem-Dip off with water to dilute and remove it from the surface. It will continue to eat aluminum surfaces if just wiped off.
SPOT ON
Flush out the water jackets the chem-dip went into also rinse the whole head with a garden hose to stop the chemical reaction.
I looked up the Chem-dip MSDS - it contains no acids, phosphoric or otherwise. As expected, it is caustic (pH 10-11), which is why you can't leave it on aluminum too long.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Chem-Dip, Tyme, and Gunk have all changed their formulas over the last dozen years or so. Thank California's Proposition 65 for that. The old stuff worked much better....but wasn't up to California standards and the manufacturers would rather make just one product instead of two. If the current stuff only works part way, it's guaranteed you'll buy more of it to get the job done. Be it a base or an acid, it's rough on aluminum. I stand corrected.......
Incorrect! www.berrymanproducts.com/assets/CD-A-Int-0996-R01.pdf
That was informational AND entertaining. Its amazing how many ppl make comments about things u said u would be addressing in a later video. I gave a thumbs up. Then i took my wife's phone and rewatched it with another 👍! You deserve more subs for the work u put in.
Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing since i no longer trust product adverts or their claims
Oh trust me this product does remove carbon ! Very toxic shit you do not want to leave on your skin or your skin will blister if left on too long I had that happen
I’m a marine engineer. I’ve been using brake fluid for years . I’ve brought old engines back by putting a few ounce’s down the spark plug holes and letting it sit overnight. On 350 chevy marine engine wouldn’t start due to lack of compression and after one treatment it started right up and ran fine.
Yeah, we were doing this back in the 70’s using the 25gal. Drums of chemical, we called it cold tanking or cold dip as opposed to the hot tank we used for steel and iron. So, it’s not really an experiment, it’s a well established practice.
Just because you did it does not mean it's a well established practice
Dude is right been common practice by mechanics for years
@@jamesdodson9417 lmfao me barely learning how it works on a small one cylinder engine😂😂(not a car engine a motorcycle engine..)
Yeah see, back in the 70s there was all sorts of fun chemical stuff nobody really thought much about touching and inhaling that did a great job, but there’s this thing we have nowadays that everybody from that era seems to have, it’s called cancer...
I’m 56 years old it’s great to see the younger generation learning what I learned when I was 17..You guys do eventually figure it out
@@antoniononame3037 what’s your problem?
@@antoniononame3037 you need to see a shrink for those anger problems
@@antoniononame3037 the young generation don't know manners
@@BlueRice And can’t spell or write coherently.
@@antoniononame3037 Ignorant that’s what u are 100%
That Berryman is very potent. I run the fuel injector gas treatment in my car. It had a tiny amount of liquid on the bottom of the can. I set the can on my trunk for less than a minute. Ate through the clear coat and paint..
Imagine how well it cleans the injectors.
…and strips the lining from the gas tank.
@orbitaljellyfish808 that's probably why the instructions on the can say a portion of the can in the tank not the full can
-- Well explained. Did this 20 years ago with my tractor.
Full strength Simple Green works for carbon removal. Over night soak and 90% of the baked on carbon wipes off with a rag. Stubborn carbon may need a second soaking to remove. Simple Green is cheap from Big Box Stores and is safe to use. I have used Simple Green on several engine heads and pistons with good results.
can you do a piston soak with it? Does it corrode the aluminum, darkens it, if you leave it on for a while, let's say, overnight?
@@falsem1nd use Simple Green HD (the purple one) if you use it on aluminum. I just used it this weekend for my aluminum LS cylinder heads and I let it sit in there for six hours, took it out to brush them down, then rinse and repeat that step 4 or so times. A day later, they're almost like 90%+ clean.
Next time you need to clean carbon, try dot 4 brake fluid. Put it on a cloth and start wiping. It immediately starts melting carbon. No soaking required
no kiddin? have to try that next time i've got a engine appart, Cheers!
What is dot 4 brake fluid?
Any pictures?
I have a burned pot. I can test on it. :)
I used to have a very precious man do all the valve jobs in my aluminum heads he would put the heads in a big tank of carburetor cleaner and they will come out like brand new the only man I trusted with doing valve jobs and all my aluminum stuff back in the day lot of Fiats with burnt exhaust valves actually made a special l
Socket wrench just to torque the head bolts without taking a cam tower off
Some chemicals can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" in aluminum, this could be why the company does not want the product left on too long. We had problems in the Air Force with some chemical cleaner / degreasers that were not approved by the manufacturer used on our F-16's and had to have some skin removed and replaced.
Seriously Thank You for Your Service to our County its Super Appreciated!! Unfortunately in many cases UNDER APPRECIATED by the media! BUT THANK YOU!!
Could you provide a bit more in the details? Nothing that would get you in trouble but im curious. Thanks Again! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Had A 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6 cylinder engine and from the travel to work or home again (about five miles) it would "PING" like crazy. Finally pulled the head off and every piston had a layer of fuzzy black carbon. Had I had this stuff you showed I would of used it. Instead of working for a weekend to remove the carbon and reseat all the valves and other seals and gaskets and adjustments. Really cool man what that stuff does.
It *can* etch certain aluminum parts if left in too long as it says on the can; however I have left small carburetors in it for a week with no effect other than super clean.
Since the head is off, why not just disassemble it (remove valves) and clean it entirely? I think you'll find significant carbon under the valve heads and/or in the intake/exhaust ports, especially if that engine is is direct injected. With the head disassembled, you'll also have access to inspect for any valve, valve seat or valve guide wear, as well as the head sealing surface for flatness.
Awesome Tip! Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Yo guys, just use Easy Off oven cleaner. Carbon comes off with a wipe if you leave for 5 min. Don’t waste your money on this Chem-Dip stuff. Legit cheaper.
Will this work on valves on GDI? Usually see walnut blast and that's $
Lightning Cleaner is what I found unreal for removing baked on carbon the VW cylinder head in a water mixture (1:1)soaking for 8hrs then rinsed it off with tap water (no scrubbing) for a bright shiny finish.
Hey Thanks for the tip! Is that the name of the product you used? As I've never heard of it? Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Am about to do my vw too 😮
For BEST results, use MR CLEAN (the bright GREEN type, and NOT the light Blue type)! Just SOAK OVERNIGHT and hose off next day. Best thing is, Mr CLEAN will NOT DAMAGE metal or rubber parts like the valve stem seals or rubber gaskets. Best product I have ever used .
Someone else has discovered my magic in a can. I knew about this stuff nearly 15 yrs ago when the can it was delivered in was white at least for the Gunk version, which are probably the same chemical with a different label. I put oil/carbon baked internal engine parts in it and let them sit over night and couldn't believe the as new cast appearance they came out with. Advance auto is where I get mine and usually they have a 25% off coupon floating around somewhere to sweeten the deal, especially now given how the price has increased by about $10 to $28. I would advise sparing use because of how expensive it is. Apply a smaller amount to soften build up on large parts like cylinder heads and use a cheap secondary cleaner and high pressure water spray to finish the job. You don't want to end up paying the same price for cleaning at home that it would cost to just drop the parts off at a shop. A good high pressure washer might do a very effective job and eliminate the use of chemicals altogether for this job and any future for the cost of the machine and low cost for water as the cleaning solution. Another old time favorite for removing a lot of the crud is Easy Off oven cleaner, just be careful not to use it on aluminum with delicate surfaces (cylinder heads, alum blocks) that need microscopic smoothness.
there is a mild version of easy off i use.. but for the hard baked on stuff & on cast iron i use tergo industrial paint stripper... just not on ali gasket surfaces
Yeah, it works but its absolutely noxious.
Thanks a lot for all this great info.
I have used Berrymans Chem Dip for years. The stuff works great. Sea foam works too with brushing and a longer soak time.
will kerosene clean egr carbon if I let it soak 24h
“Easy off” oven cleaner.
@@ross_ulbright7779 but don’t use oven cleaner on aluminum it will ruin it and the corrosion will never stop
@@richardcrouse9074what’s suitable for thick carbon on aluminium
@@aqib2000 My best thought is media blasting
I've been using this stuff for 30+ years and it's awesome stuff. There's no real need to scrub but I've found it works best when it's around 100 to 110 degrees F. It removes carbon, grease, paint, etc. About the only thing it won't remove is rust or corrosion. One caveat; the "environmentally friendly" Chem Dip is much less effective. The good stuff comes in a 5 gallon bucket and comes with a parts basket.
Nice work, just what I was looking for. Have a great day.
Thank you, next time I have ot do this to a head I know what works best. I used carb cleaner in a spray can. I pokes a hole in the can and drained it out and poured it into the head area and let is soak over night. The next morning I used a tooth brush and clean it and like you had a clean head. Your method looks like it did a better job over all with less scrubbing.
A lot of beer kegs.. my best problem solving came at the bottom of kegs as well. It’s good to see honestly.
I used Chem-Dip on carburetors , soaked them over night , they were aluminum . It didn't harm them
I've been using Chemdip since the early 80's to clean gunked-up carbs. Great stuff that had a very unique smell. I haven't found anything that works as fast or as good as that stuff.
Easy Off would probably do better. I used it myself and took the carbon off my pistons in 5-10mins.
@@a.m.7060 Thanks, one day I will try it. For cleaning an engine that isn't disassembled and still runs I use some stuff called Kreen Motor Tonic by Kano Labs. You add some to the gas & oil and it dissolves carbon, gunk, the varnish from the rings, and cleans the entire fuel system. It can be used on cars, boats, motorcycles, aircraft, or any gas or diesel engine. I used it in an engine that had to be rebuilt after 50,000 miles and it was remarkably clean internally. It's way better than Sea Foam or any other similar product. See: www.kroil.com/order-kroil-products/
@@kst357 Dang, I’ll try that too.
Hey Thanks for the Tip! It's Super Appreciated. Kroil seriously sells a lot of Great sounding products!!! Somewhat unfortunately I can't just run-up to my local auto parts store I'll have to order it as its not sold in my local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. You'd think a company thats been around since the late 1930's selling chems for auto repair shops would be in ever Auto Parts store but than again there are not a lot of Rolls-Royce dealerships everywhere. Thinking about it Rolls-Royce was a fantastic auto manufacturer they need to go back to making thier own drive-trains again with a bit of BMW'S performance influence. Thanks again Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@kst357 Kano products are so expensive but they are worth the cost. I just can't spend the money on a "tool" I will only use once a year.
Hey Looks good. It looks like the valves are seating otherwise the liquid would have leaked out. Nice job Nice tutorial video
Really? So the heat and pressure inside the cylinders is no stronger than gravity acting on a little liquid? Horse apples. That seal you are imagining is likely more carbon baked onto the valves & seats. Reinvent something else, 'cause this wheel has been done.
Yep!
......yes, it's a good sign. Things may change slightly though with temperature change .
There are 2 grades of Chem Dip. Standard and Professional. You know you have the good stuff if it makes your shop wreak forever, the other doesn't do much.
Kroil does the same thing.....the smell hangs around for days.
@@mikerieck306
YES it does! PB Blaster also tends to linger.
You can tell this cat is young, no work table he's working off the floor.
haha ,he has no idea!!!
Fuck i feel you brothers
Yes his knees still work. lol
Hey, he has a work buckets! yeah as you get older you stop working on the ground.
Balonga! The older you get the more crap piles up on all your work surfaces. The only thing left is the floor!
The solvent breaks down aluminum. I once forgot a rack of MC carbs in a Saftety Klean tank (about 30 years ago) overnite and they were brittle as hell the next morning.
@@rollerbearings9995 Just throw some foil in it and see if you can find it later.
Simple green... That's all you need. I mix it 4 to 1 with water. If you soak your parts overnight then rinse with strong water pressure everything looks new. Non corrosive and very mild on your hands..
U should always stuff ur piston skirts w rags, or and nvr alloww them to bang off the rod as it could start a stress crack and lead to a catastrophic failure in which ur puzzled by what what wrong.... just a tip from an old man
Back in the day all we had was gasoline to clean everything.
Our napthagh that’s a class III carcinogen
Naphta
Nah, diesel works better than gas
Oh yes remember that beautiful gasoline when it was pink full of lead and octane cleaned many many car parts with gasoline back in the Day love the smell of that pink gasoline...
Back in the ‘70s EVERYONE rebuilt engines or swapped !
I got my azzzz whooped because I always found the oil drain bucket or the engine cleaning tub !
NEVER FAILED !
About 2005ish I was in a private parking lot some guy blew out transmission fluid everywhere
THE PLACE CALLED A
“HAZMAT TEAM “!
That was a little much!
If this was like the can of Gunk parts dip I bought 20 years ago, you wouldn't be leaving it sitting out in the open. The smell would drive you out of the shop (heavy creosote smell). You dropped what ever you wanted in the basket, and closed the lid as quickly as possible. If any splashed on your skin, be prepared for it to stink for the next 2 days.
Cresylic acid, yes, smells like creosote. I've used chem dip and similar products for over 40 years. Absolutely fantastic when used correctly.
Can we add this to the engine oil
3m throttle body and carb cleaner works way faster and honestly better. Maybe a little more expensive but you can move to the next step instead of waiting hours. That's a pro tech tip kids.
steff k 3m will NOT REMOVE HARD CARBON FROM RINGS VALVES AND HEADS.
For the big diesels we leave the pistone crown situng in a tub off water over night and the carbo comes off pretty easy
Retired 40 years heavy const. equipment, heavy carbon build up in exhaust area soak heads in old 50/50 mix antifreeze loosens heavy carbon to chunks that washes away w/ steam or high pressure washer. Try it with a exhaust valve see what u think. Clean parts well and lube well w. oil. Antifreeze not good so cleaning is important but you were going to clean and lube your parts anyway, right? I have not ever lost any engines by doing this. Do not let your cat or dog lick the parts, poison LOL.
You just lost extra compression! LOL!
The warning is made due to linings and (aluminum hydrogen enbattlement. never soak aluminum long in it.)that may be present since it's a parts cleaner not a specific internal or external motor parts cleaner. You don't want to clean carburetor internal parts with it. Per my brother who was a mechanic before his death in 2010. He taught what I do know about motors. He worked on everything from cars, tractors to diesel trucks for 40 yrs. He was fascinated by modern motors and electronics. Always learning new technologies. That I know of there was nothing that guy could not do. I sure miss him working on my vehicles.. the man was a genius with motors. Love your videos. If you bought it a truck driver delivered it. Happy 2022 to you and yours.😁
whoa, great product, that was really clean. Thanks for posting this
all berrymans is, is acetone and xylene. even gasoline with some water added to it is a good cleaning solvent. save some loot.
Aluminum and Brass can literally disolve in Acidic Solutions like this. That's why you have to keep it under 4 hrs. Our Machine shop does the same with Acid Bath, but Iron motor blocks can stay in a lot longer
Berryman makes a product called B12 Chemtool. I put 1 can in my 98 k1500 5.7 vortec, every other tank full of 90 octane 0 ethanol. Cleans carbon on valves pistons and injectors. Purrs like a kitten.
I like the chem dip for rebuilding carburetors , it works well.
I use to disassemble and throw the whole bare head in a 5gal bucket and go to lunch, hour later I come back and pull them out and took a power washer to them.
Makes heads look like brand new every time. Now days the shit is to expensive to buy like that. Purple industrial cleaner from lowes will clean them up, but you cant let it sit on the aluminum to long, it will eat it.
Then hit it with some starting fluid to really clean it up.
Starting fluid is a great cleaner and cheaper than brake cleaner
@@AmandaHugenkiss2915 always buy a can when wife sends me to grocery store😁
Starting fluid? First ive heard of using that to do a clean up.
Yup, Starting fluid. Have your air ready to blow it and contaminants away. Otherwise, the fluid just moves it to a different place and evaporates. Don't be smokin' either.
Carbon tetrachloride is what I use... Works better than anything you can buy. You can also get a super inexpensive media blaster and use baking soda.
The carbon on the exhaust valve gets a lot hotter, and will turn to "glass", same thing that cause "splash fouling "of plugs when an engine is run at high speed after carbon build up. Probably need to chip it off.
The 4 hours or less time limit for aluminum is so they take no damage. In the old days at engine shop if you acid dipped aluminum head for more then an hour no need to retrieve it because it will dissolve away. yes it will melt into liquid with the right chemicals over time. so dont do this is you are tired cause if you fall asleep and leave it on to long you got parts to buy.
its a good sign when the chemical doesn't drain out right away too, that is a nice engine to rebuild. I don't know a whole lot, but the fact those valves still seal tightly even carbon coated is a good thing. Honda power :-)
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for engine parts. I only use water with a little dish soap for a few reasons. 1 being as far as ur every day degreasers go I’ve tried them all none worked any faster or better. 2 When you use chemicals they can damage coatings on the pistons, the valve seals and some are bad for aluminum. 3 You can buy some chemicals/cleaners made for ultrasonic cleaning that will clean faster but they are expensive and the water cleans just as good so a part that takes 30 minutes with good chemicals might take 90 minutes. But if ur not using it every day no sense in using anything but water I mean for under a few hundred bucks you buy the machine then dont need to buy anymore chemicals again for cleaning.
Simple green aluminum product , soaked head 4 days came out shiny brand new ! Insane
Chem dip is the best, especially if you get the original formula, before they made a Cali approved one. It’s still available , just have to look for it. The reason on the aluminum time limit is it will actually start to attack it if left too long. Small pitting can occur. The same can happen with simple green on aluminum. Limit contact time and clean thoroughly.
Sounds like what happened when P&G / Cascade changed thier formula back in either the late 1990's thru the early 2000's if im correct. Now Cascade eats at any aluminum.
Great video I used so much of that berrymans when i was a young buck i cant stand the smell of it anymore so i use kroil and it smells like pinesol.
Kroil smells soo good
Kroil is probably one of the greatest smells ever, used that stuff as my grandpa had it in his shop when I was about ten
Just wondering how you neutralized this stuff? Did you just hose it down with water? I feel like a film/trace amount would still be left over, and it would need to be removed, still think it's a great product though pretty impressed with how quickly it cleaned everything.
Rinse off with water. There will be a film left on the parts. Clean off accordingly.
So, by "rebuilt" you mean: partially disassemble, clean, maybe new bearings, new rings and gaskets? No crank turning, rod reconditioning, boring and honing, no valve face, seat, or guide work, no resurfacing or balancing?
It’s been awhile since I’ve used Berryman but i think it might say since 1928 on the can. Very aggressive stuff. It says don’t get it on your paint and I’ve learned the hard way to take great care as to not let this stuff get on your paint. Lol. Great video and nice project.
Usually, degreasers are very Akali and will oxidize aluminum, hence the time limit. NOT my area of expertise, but I think it would be a good idea to neutralize. Happy to be corrected by someone with more knowledge. Thanks
You sir are a genius! Walnut blasting intake valves is ridiculous. There has to be a "solution" for this god awful procedure which my chevy dealers in town have no idea about but sell gdi cars. My cobalt ss turbo needs intake valve cleaning desperately. I am going to try this. THANK YOU!
I will let you know how it works.
Wear gloves. It will dissolve you too.
Great job! I appreciate you taking the time and getting valuable information out there!
Paint reducer or "grow" wax and grease remover also removes it fast, dont even have to soak it for a while, just scrub it with a brass brush, and everything is clean within minutes..
I just built an f23, and currently also building an f22 like you.haha
Power steering fluid cleans carbon off of pistons very well, I can say from experience.
Well done buddy, many of the great mechanics don't have top of the line tools around, they work with their greatest tool their brain.
Nice vid....gave a 👍, may I suggest "work benches" for the future?
Mercury Power Tune works awesome also. I use it on my outboard and you should see the carbon that comes out. I also use it to clean my prop.
The old Ford upper cylinder lubricant was some NASTY stuff, too!!! LOL
This old mechanic cleaned carbon while engine running with water through vacuum line ✌
Me too! Just spraying water into the the vacuum line!👍
Seriously?
chemdip is great,spray gasket remover works great on carbon deposits as well
I just enjoyed the video man, and not to mention gave the 5000th like to your video :D
The reason they say 4 hours is it will begin to deteriorate the aluminum. A friend used a can I had to clean his motorcycle carb. Forgot about it for 4 days. Was nothing left but a small piece the main body. Turned it to dust.
The Berryman B-12 Chemtool is good- see the Project Farm comparison videos. It made the spark plugs look the cleanest when added to the gasoline, compared to the others.
I'll seriously check out the video your suggesting as I just bought a 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 93k and dealer serviced. If im say running to my local 7-11 during the night and punch it with a vehicle behind me I see a lot of carbon blowing out. I was thinking of using my favorite goto Seafoam spray to fog the intake and valves as its helped my other trucks and cars. Can this be sprayed into the intake like Seafoam spray top engine cleaner? Thanks for any advice its super appreciated! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@eddiej.2354 SeaFoam isn't a very good solvent, but it does one thing very well, soften the carbon at the valve faces. Berryman's B12 isn't intended as an induction solvent. B12 is far superior for dissolving carbon, however, but I wouldn't try it as an induced one.
Been wrenching for 40yrs. Berryman makes some fine products.
Looks great, excellent job.
Concrete mixing tube, Medium or large I have three of them they come in real handy for either change or like you’re doing cleaning parts.
Good to know. Will be removing a head soon so I will give this a try. Looks much easier than what I have done on previous heads. Another benefit is you know the valves are sealing properly.
how did it go?
Work good on carburetor varnish fuels carb vat work great but EPA regulations and prices skyrocketed for the solution
Most likely contains muriatic acid--which you can buy pretty cheap by the gallon or 5 gallon bucket.
Even better than chem dip is Permatex Spray-On gasket remover. Smells kind of strong from what I remember, but still better than ez-off. Permatex Spray-On gasket remover, I promise.
So can you pour chemdip into the cylinders to clean out carbon without rebuilding the engine? Then suck it out and cycle the engine with no spark plugs. Change the oil? Put fresh oil and run a bit and change again?
the reason of 4 hours is that chemical reaction cause the aluminum to become brittle, you must wash that off with water
Cool . Can you use this product while the heads are still on the car . Kind of like seafoam . It clearly works wonders as many other product don't do half as good and clame to .
I leave the carbon build up, it is free increased compression 🤣🤣🤣
and detonation with it.
What do you do with the used chemicals?
If you have a few days to clean it, wd 40 every 6 or 10 hours just spray more on it. After 5 or 6 Days the stuff will look brand new. You don't even have to scrub it. Just keep adding wd 40. Idk why it works but it just dissolves carbon and it disappears. I just did a 302 and the pistons were caked and pitch black. I did this for 3 days and they are now shiny like new and scrubbing them with steel wool the first day didn't even get through the first layer of buildup. I'm be don't this method with my shit forever now. It was effortless.
Bro oven and bbq cleaner does the same job in 4-10 mins and you can do the ports aswell
Thats a great idea!
@@coconutcreampie3795 Not on aluminum. Don't spray caustic alkali on aluminum, it will begin to dissolve.
@@mfree80286 Funny you mention that. I am doing zinc plating on a bunch of old motorcycle parts and have a lye solution for removing grease before plating. I put a wheel spacer into the lye and forgot about it for a week and it was totally deteriorated. Now I need to find one and its for a vintage bike.
A hazmat time bomb 💣! Gasoline, propane, starting fluid and other chemicals all together with a young boy in the same room.😱😱😱
True, but he s not cooking crack..... Not sure why he needed that rebuild and what made him do it, I see it as a good thing repairing your own crap and do your own thing.... Make your own dissicions and your mistakes and once in a while a victory or two..... You can feel the satisfaction when it fires up again
Those are tools and fuel, not a hazmat issue.
In the egr passagess for those intake manifolds but you should take the head apart valves on the drill chuck and a wire brush grinder
Great video. Word to the wise, those blue gloves are not chemical resistant. That stuff has some nasty chemicals that will absorb through your skin and into your bloodstream, even through those gloves. Be careful about that.
Great Tip!! Any suggestions on shop gloves? I've seen my mechanic using black looking latex gloves but just figured it was just a different color of glove.
Awesome, how is it disposed of?
Usually it sits in a container until someone spills it somehow and then a bunch of shop towels clean it up, the local rag gypsy picks em up, they are taken to be washed and then you get to drink em at some point after your sewage plant turns turds and chemdry into H2O
If you heat it up it works better. Not boiling hot just warm enough touch. Used this for all carb rebuilds and Exhaust brake butterfly's that were sized up.The youth trying to claim what has already been long ago used.
News flash. Marvel Mystery Oil woks great as well. And bonus round, you can put it in your gas tank.
I wonder if this can be used for the routine manual cleaning of the top end of a direct injection engine (engine in tact, minus intake)?
Question 2006 xc90 changed 2 valves 5 sliders fall out of and not sure if I put them on right places Does it matter and how to check if they are over corresponding valve can you help me, please. Your Video is great explains all in clear detail
I just used a glass bead machine into the intake. Engine quit running BUT no more carbon buildup.
M.A.G A
It's not that the aluminum has any kind of coating on it. It's that some chemicals, especially acidic ones, can dissolve aluminum, causing pits in the part. Too, electrolysis (a battery-like action) can occur between dissimilar metals such as aluminum and steel just from having pure water between them. If allowed to continue, it will eventually perforate the aluminum. I've seen that. Some chemicals intensify electrolysis, others, like antifreeze, inhibit it. Chorine bleach will eat holes in a stainless steel sink. I've seen that, too.
That's, most likely, the reason for the four hour time limit.
I Agree 100% It's like the original version of Cascade dishwasher powder from earlier then the 1995 or 2000 till someone at Cascade changed the formula it was AWESOME on any aluminum bake ware like my toaster over tray. It would come out almost new looking but again since someone at P&G / Cascade changed the formula now that same tray or any aluminum tray or pot comes out of the dishwasher looking like someone sprayed black primer paint on it and extremely dull looking. Hopefully the Chem he used to clean the carbon off the heads are not like Cascade case he will see pitting eventually on the parts. Yes, I like to cook lol Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Another product that works is paint stripper, the product that sort of smells like ammonia.
I know that shop smells like chem dip and will forever! ; )
Yip. That stuff is nasty.