So glad to see you grunt and groan trying to work up under the sink. Most youtube videos make it look so easy. Real life is hard when working up under there!
The dreaded ball turret of home renovation and repair. Only a sadist could be happy to hear there's a problem with the sink. They should be impeached and charged with insurrection.
great video again! As a plumber, i just love those plastic tail pieces. removes the fail point of the brass nut and top hat leaks due to corrosion in the long run. Plus its a one piece design with a rubber gasket, almost guaranteed not to leak.
Thank you! Tank you! Thank you! I am in the USA and I started to watch your video a year before I become a home owner. From my shed to a complete basement finished I did by my own because of you. And now people are calling me for some work in their house or backyard. Thank you!
I truly appreciate watching mistakes and frustrations as well as successes. It allows you to truly teach to truth. This is why it is always YOUR videos that I share with friends. Love it!
I've been watching and rewatching your videos the last 3 weeks as I complete a DIY reno. Compared to other videos on the same subject matter (not just this one, but hanging doors, drywall, electrical etc) you bring simplicity and understable instruction. Thank you very much! Without a doubt you've saved me lots of money, time and frustration.
Jeff. Yet another detailed job that you make look easy. Just wanted to point out a small detail that you maybe didn't film but when testing a faucet (or new plumbing, or etc), always remove any aerators/flow restrictors at the spigot before turning on the water for the first time. Otherwise, they'll catch any debris in the lines and/or fixtures that can then cause uneven or blocked water flow. Otherwise, keep the great videos coming.
Using the black or white washer ring on TOP of the sink drain, will cause the basket to be elevated above the drain opening. I always use putty for better fitment and put the washers on the bottom.
The thin white foam goes on top, the thick rubber goes underneath, plumbers putty is so old school, I'll rather use silicone if not using the foam gaskets
@@ellyr6234Not needed but there may be a small gap on the outer edge where stuff can get trapped, if using silicone or putty, it will squeeze out the side, I just don't like the thickness of putty, doesn't flow well, you have to make sure it has 100% coverage when compressed
I have been watching your clips for a long time. I love the idea of the putty below the sink lip! I never thought to put teflon tape on pvc but I will now.
You probably just saved me a bit of time and money. My garage sink/laundry drain was installed by the previous owners with threaded connectors between every joint in the pvc. And 3 of those joints are leaking. I was going to replace the whole line using normal joints and pvc glue. I hadn't even thought they may not have used teflon tape.
Thank you for all of your videos. Bought my house 2.5 years ago. I have a 1 yr old and 3yr old. Your videos save me so much time with trial and error. THANK YOU!!
You reminded me of when I was finishing my custom mailbox post last week. Went to lowe's and bought three 5" lag screws to attach the top. Not only did they not tighten up ONE BIT but they also stripped out in the process! And I'm saying one of them had a completely round head by the time I got it back out. So I returned that garbage and got three 6" torx construction screws at home depot that did the job on the first try.
Jeff I have learned that it is better to install the faucet on the sink before dropping the sink assembly into place. put the sink on a saw horse and go to work. That trick makes the installation more enjoyable for me.
Sometimes when I watch your videos I am so engaged that when you talked about adding a straight piece of pipe into the assembly, I was like: Jeff I got one in the Car. Let me get that ... oh.
"Excuse me for a bit while I crawl into the abyss." Hahaha. Just installed a new kitchen sink today. Went from a double sink to a large single with an offset drain. I quite honestly watch your videos exclusively when I need to do something DIY that I've never done before.
Just found this channel, it’s a keeper…I try to complete as many projects I can myself so finding these are so useful! Thanks so much for sharing. Your work looks top of line! I still have to really take my time!
I love his ability to have a workaround! Additionally his candor of what's best to use (not garbage) ! Thanks for best practices (procedure/process, equipment/supplies to use)!
I agree on your statement about silicone, I always make sure that I buy good old acetoxy silicone. Chemistry somewhat disagrees with the statement of good silicone stinks: the "stinky silicone" is based on the acetoxy cure: look for methyltriacetoxysilane and ethyltriacetoxysilane or acetic acid on the label (the acid in vinegar ) fumes are what you smell. Very good bonding to almost everything, it cures very well, faster than the label says, *but it can corrode metals and discolor stones*. The other types are oxime and neutral cure, and they both bond almost as well and some have better characteristics for flexibility/tensile. But even though they state that they are water ready in 30 minutes, their fast skin time makes them very slow to cure to depth. The crappy silicones you refer to are probably not even silicone but hybrids.
I found moen adler is the best kitchen faucet for rental properties, the easiest installation and supplies everything in the box.. efficient and most profitable lol
22:23 As I get older, I appreciate an “old man gremlin laugh.” When it’s time to get into some contorted, awkward position under a sink, under a car, in the attic, etc, it somehow seems to help. 😄
Love your channel, I do most of the work myself and so much info got from your channel. Now was planning to do the drain in my place and updates the kitchen and got stuck on a clearance from the sink and a drain pipe in the wall . As soon as I tacked the old Petra it was filled loose and sure into it it a copper pipe all rasted in and it is quiet up so my distance from the sink drain and the wall pipe like 2 inch distance...
I'm surprised that you didn't install the faucet hardware on the sink before putting it in place. I learned that from "This Old House" . Thier Master Plummer is Richard Tretheuy (sp?).
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY How about cutting a piece of countertop to simulate doing as you suggest but not going through the countertop that the sink actually sits on? This would allow mounting the faucet before putting the sink in place.
Hello! After attempting (and succeeding!) to change my bathroom’s sink faucet and drain pipes for the first time, I’ve become really interested in learning how to do other things around the house. Now I must ask, what does the spray hose connect to? I didn’t really understand. Also your videos are really well made, the instructions are very clear and I find myself watching them in my free time to learn more. Thanks!
The spray hose quick-connects to the faucet's combined hot&cold water line. Those 2 seperate water supply lines lead from the shut off valves to the faucet. They combine in some form of mixing chamber and the water is directed down the combined line. This line connects to the spray hose. It's the one you attach the weight to. There might be tape on it to suggest where the weight should be attached. Just below the tape is usually a good location. Jeff can't answer all questions, but I hope this helps.
I stopped using metal P traps because my fingers when through one when I was inspecting under a sink in an apartment I lived in in college. Plastic doesn't rust and corrode. Although, I probably would use a metal sink basket since it doesn't constantly hold water like the p trap.
I absolutely love your channel. You are helping me re-finish my entire condo! Thank you so much for these instructional videos. They really help me out.
12:36 - Seems like you could use a small mirror with something taped to the back, so it would sit at an angle, and let you see up behind the sink at this point. Also sink clips that have hex heads so you can use a socket, and socket driver on your drill.
I thought the way to seal the sink was to use the putty like you did but....same thing happened to me as it will not compress enough. Had to pull it up same as you did and use silicone.
Can you please do a video of replacing old kitchen cabinets but keeping the existing countertop? I bought a house where flipper added the new countertop but didn't update 1980 cabinets.
The problem with steel is that it rots. And just when you're doing some kind of cleanout, it breaks out. Happened more than once to me. Plastic will never do that. Plastic also conforms better to a seal. It's not good for everything, but quite often its still a great option. Also, you should always install the faucet if you can on that sink before installing it. I thought you were making things easier by installing it before you placed the sink? That self is really unnecessary too. Should have killed it. Most sink basin cabinets never have a full shelf in them.
Those plastic strainers are garbage. I was repiping below a sink and must've notched into the pre existing one and when I tested the strainer started leaking. Got soft and Brittle over time and immediately failed. Give me ridgid materials all day long. Jeff is a rookie though, doesn't deburr any pipe and the Teflon isn't doing anything on the ptrap, it's a tapered design, seals itself hes not a plumber but good at other things.
Omg I love ur UA-cam videos I have a ? I'm renovating a kitchen that was built about the 1970s ... my question is the sink drain measures 31\4 inches and I can not find a new sink drain that measures that it's either 3in or 31/2 so help me plz lol and no the sink has to stay can't afford new sink... thank you love watching !!!!
Thanks for your video! Just would like to give some constructive feedback, clear one section, then move on to the other section. It's just confusing, you go from the drain, to the p-trap, to the drain again etc. Thanks a lot for your tips!
I dont useclips , I set sink temporarily, mark it with pencil, set sink then put clamps thru holes of strainer baskets and place a 1x4 on top and toghten ,pulls sink down tight
@@susanmei9980 forgot to say I put caulk under sink dabs here and there, I clamp using those squezze clamps thru holes in bottom of sink where strainer baskets go. on top put a 3' 1x4 across sink and top of clamp hooks on 1 x 4. leave overnight, remove clamp and 1x 4 install strainer baskets etc. I had to remove my kitchen sink to add tile, it took a hydraulic jack to get sink off, holding power is more than needed, and you dont have to climb around under there and hook up those clips and you cant see what your doing. WORKS GREAT
@@timothyroche6445 I know you put a board on the top to clamp to; but there must be something under the sink to clamp too on the lower side; otherwise you’re just clamping the sink to the sink! Do you know what I mean?
"Why do they sell you things that can fall apart?" - so they can sell them to you over and over again "I think I know exactly what I'm doing here" - the mantra of the DIYer! LOL
Two questions: 1) why didn't you attach the faucet to the sink before you installed the sink? 2) why didn't you run a bead of silicon under the sink lip before you placed it in the opening?
I have a girlie question I am about to install new plumbing pipes under the sink and have pre connected them all the way the old ones were laid out when purchasing the waste pvc pipe Home Depot customer service suggested when I showed the old plumbing pipelines he thought that the waste line that’s connected to the tee pipe should be tiled slightly down to the tee pipe so gravity would drain better. Do you agree with this opinion? Thank you
In small spaces it is not necessary to have pipes tilted 1 degree however it is not good to have them sloped in the wrong direction for sure. level is just fine for small joints. Cheers!
Hey Jeff I'm a long time follower of your Channel but I also got to wonder do you ever watch the channel it's called the van wives they are building they're off the grid Cabin in the Woods in Canada somewhere I think the Nova Scotia. I believe you be a great asset to their Adventure
Thank you for the good video,very informative and useful as always.however,I have to say that to have a shelve in the sink cabinet is wiered and very unusual, but to have to install the sink with the shelve in place, is definitely not wise at all.
I respectfully disagree with some things: I would put the rubber gasket and the white, possibly cardboard slip gasket go under the basket strainer between the sink bottom and top of the basket strainer with the plumbers putty under the basket on the top of the sink bottom hole for it. Using the rubber gasket inside the sink allows it to stick out and collect debris, not to mention if the slip gasket IS cardboard it can absorb water and degrade as well, possibly wicking water at some point. I LOVE Sharkbite but I am not a fan of leaving any kind of piping sticking out like that as it makes it too easy to twist and damage or fold/crimp a supply line when you are trying to turn off a line, I would have gone as far as to use a copper stub out such as the sharkbite 90 stubout and perhaps used 1/2" pipe brackets to secure the piping to the walls of the cabinet. I hope you will secure the free supply lines that were on the shelves because rapid changes in water pressures in the system anywhere will make them move around from the pressure of the water hammers and make for a needlessly noisy system.
In EU we use polypropylene (PP) pipes and we dont clue pipes together. We have rubber gaskets in all PP parts (90, 45 etc.). UPONOR is the manufacturer.
Silicone instead of plumber's putty is even better. Also, don't use teflon tape on ABS fittings... if you really want to, I'd limit it to 2 layers tops and don't overtighten. Also be sure you have the correct slopes for your drain pipes. I don't think you mentioned that. You also want to wait at least 30 minutes after using ABS glue to start testing.
tbh plastic doesnt rot like that cheap pot metal tho.. after the coating is nicked or worn through its amazing how fast that pot metal degrades and rots from just tap water... as long you u use plumbers dough and dont over torque it, it will far outlast the plastic imo
To see this project from the beginning, watch here: ua-cam.com/video/ln70DQU4CHQ/v-deo.html
So glad to see you grunt and groan trying to work up under the sink. Most youtube videos make it look so easy. Real life is hard when working up under there!
Yea , there is no fun that!
So true! Cheers!
He's just like me fr
Yes!! Working under a sink is a SOB! No matter what you're doing under there, it never works out to plan...
The dreaded ball turret of home renovation and repair. Only a sadist could be happy to hear there's a problem with the sink. They should be impeached and charged with insurrection.
great video again! As a plumber, i just love those plastic tail pieces. removes the fail point of the brass nut and top hat leaks due to corrosion in the long run. Plus its a one piece design with a rubber gasket, almost guaranteed not to leak.
Thank you! Tank you! Thank you! I am in the USA and I started to watch your video a year before I become a home owner. From my shed to a complete basement finished I did by my own because of you. And now people are calling me for some work in their house or backyard. Thank you!
Great job! Consider starting a gig business on the side. lots of work out there for folks who want it.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you again!
I truly appreciate watching mistakes and frustrations as well as successes. It allows you to truly teach to truth. This is why it is always YOUR videos that I share with friends. Love it!
Cheers!
I've been watching and rewatching your videos the last 3 weeks as I complete a DIY reno. Compared to other videos on the same subject matter (not just this one, but hanging doors, drywall, electrical etc) you bring simplicity and understable instruction. Thank you very much! Without a doubt you've saved me lots of money, time and frustration.
I installed that exact faucet in my kitchen renovation 3 days ago. It’s reassuring to see that I did all the correct steps
Jeff. Yet another detailed job that you make look easy. Just wanted to point out a small detail that you maybe didn't film but when testing a faucet (or new plumbing, or etc), always remove any aerators/flow restrictors at the spigot before turning on the water for the first time. Otherwise, they'll catch any debris in the lines and/or fixtures that can then cause uneven or blocked water flow. Otherwise, keep the great videos coming.
Great tip Phill! Cheers!
Also install the faucet before the sink. And put escutcheons over the pipes 😉 and use pvc pipe.
@@lowellswartzentruber5847 He's in Canada. Code is ABS.
@@AKJammer1 I’m so sorry. And feel sorry for them! 😀
Using the black or white washer ring on TOP of the sink drain, will cause the basket to be elevated above the drain opening. I always use putty for better fitment and put the washers on the bottom.
The thin white foam goes on top, the thick rubber goes underneath, plumbers putty is so old school, I'll rather use silicone if not using the foam gaskets
@@daijoubu4529 Have fun removing a basket that is siliconed-down to the sink.
@daijoubu4529 plumbers putty might be old school but it's pretty fool proof and so easy to cleanup
@@daijoubu4529 do putty/silicone the white foam piece to the sink? Or not needed with the foam piece!
@@ellyr6234Not needed but there may be a small gap on the outer edge where stuff can get trapped, if using silicone or putty, it will squeeze out the side, I just don't like the thickness of putty, doesn't flow well, you have to make sure it has 100% coverage when compressed
I have been watching your clips for a long time. I love the idea of the putty below the sink lip! I never thought to put teflon tape on pvc but I will now.
You probably just saved me a bit of time and money. My garage sink/laundry drain was installed by the previous owners with threaded connectors between every joint in the pvc. And 3 of those joints are leaking. I was going to replace the whole line using normal joints and pvc glue. I hadn't even thought they may not have used teflon tape.
You helped me build a basement and now refresh a kitchen! The best on youtube!
Thank you for all of your videos. Bought my house 2.5 years ago. I have a 1 yr old and 3yr old. Your videos save me so much time with trial and error. THANK YOU!!
You reminded me of when I was finishing my custom mailbox post last week. Went to lowe's and bought three 5" lag screws to attach the top. Not only did they not tighten up ONE BIT but they also stripped out in the process! And I'm saying one of them had a completely round head by the time I got it back out. So I returned that garbage and got three 6" torx construction screws at home depot that did the job on the first try.
Cheers to that!
Jeff I have learned that it is better to install the faucet on the sink before dropping the sink assembly into place. put the sink on a saw horse and go to work. That trick makes the installation more enjoyable for me.
Great video and learned a few tricks. One thing I like to use is a Sink Mat for Kitchen Waterproof, keeps the sink bottom from rotting.
Sometimes when I watch your videos I am so engaged that when you talked about adding a straight piece of pipe into the assembly, I was like: Jeff I got one in the Car. Let me get that ... oh.
LOL. Noice!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Jeff, I didn’t know you speak Kiwi!
That’s just how we say it here haha. Hello from New Zealand.
Thanks for sharing the sink seal option with putty, and the learning
Enjoy your videos a lot! I’ve been plumbing 40 years and this video is about a 7 out of 10 for technique. Good job!
Thanks 👍
"Excuse me for a bit while I crawl into the abyss." Hahaha. Just installed a new kitchen sink today. Went from a double sink to a large single with an offset drain. I quite honestly watch your videos exclusively when I need to do something DIY that I've never done before.
This is what I call an authentic video, warts and all.
Just found this channel, it’s a keeper…I try to complete as many projects I can myself so finding these are so useful! Thanks so much for sharing. Your work looks top of line! I still have to really take my time!
I like the reality of your show. The obstacles you encounter and go a real route.
Love all the errors!😍. Makes me feel better when I see someone else mess up the same way. Plastic is good but not for compression is correct!
Hi Thorman, you are my favourite says as is not nailing as CNN or Mike Homes until nail gets to my head. You have taught me lot thanks CANUK.
Cheers Tman! Happy to be of help!
I bet you were regretting that shelf inside the kitchen cabinet lmaooo
LOVE YOU VIDEOS ,Never seen plumbers putty used like you was originally trying to put it in place around the sink instead of silicone,GOD BLESS
Never thought I'd hear Jeff say he'd be happy that something would last only 1 year!
I love his ability to have a workaround! Additionally his candor of what's best to use (not garbage) ! Thanks for best practices (procedure/process, equipment/supplies to use)!
My pleasure! Cheers!
I agree on your statement about silicone, I always make sure that I buy good old acetoxy silicone. Chemistry somewhat disagrees with the statement of good silicone stinks: the "stinky silicone" is based on the acetoxy cure: look for methyltriacetoxysilane and ethyltriacetoxysilane or acetic acid on the label (the acid in vinegar ) fumes are what you smell. Very good bonding to almost everything, it cures very well, faster than the label says, *but it can corrode metals and discolor stones*.
The other types are oxime and neutral cure, and they both bond almost as well and some have better characteristics for flexibility/tensile. But even though they state that they are water ready in 30 minutes, their fast skin time makes them very slow to cure to depth. The crappy silicones you refer to are probably not even silicone but hybrids.
Just started out as a plumbing apprentice and I love it!!! Great video
I found moen adler is the best kitchen faucet for rental properties, the easiest installation and supplies everything in the box.. efficient and most profitable lol
Never lose your sense of humor Jeff as that makes a bad situation tolerable.
only thing that keeps me sane in this environment!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Man I appreciate what you do.
22:23 As I get older, I appreciate an “old man gremlin laugh.” When it’s time to get into some contorted, awkward position under a sink, under a car, in the attic, etc, it somehow seems to help. 😄
just managing expectations. Cheers Ben!
Love your channel, I do most of the work myself and so much info got from your channel.
Now was planning to do the drain in my place and updates the kitchen and got stuck on a clearance from the sink and a drain pipe in the wall .
As soon as I tacked the old Petra it was filled loose and sure into it it a copper pipe all rasted in and it is quiet up so my distance from the sink drain and the wall pipe like 2 inch distance...
16:40 - Could the faucet be pre-installed on the sink before the sink is lowered into the countertop ??
Probably. I will be replacing our bathroom sink and faucet soon and will definitely try to attach the faucet first. ;-)
I'm surprised that you didn't install the faucet hardware on the sink before putting it in place. I learned that from "This Old House" . Thier Master Plummer is Richard Tretheuy (sp?).
faucets attached direct to a stainless sink will always come loose. I prefer to attach to the counter under the sink as well for durability.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY How about cutting a piece of countertop to simulate doing as you suggest but not going through the countertop that the sink actually sits on? This would allow mounting the faucet before putting the sink in place.
I silicone my sink drains. Never problems!
Perfect Everytime my man....
Cheers Cudda!
Hello! After attempting (and succeeding!) to change my bathroom’s sink faucet and drain pipes for the first time, I’ve become really interested in learning how to do other things around the house.
Now I must ask, what does the spray hose connect to? I didn’t really understand.
Also your videos are really well made, the instructions are very clear and I find myself watching them in my free time to learn more. Thanks!
The spray hose quick-connects to the faucet's combined hot&cold water line. Those 2 seperate water supply lines lead from the shut off valves to the faucet. They combine in some form of mixing chamber and the water is directed down the combined line. This line connects to the spray hose. It's the one you attach the weight to. There might be tape on it to suggest where the weight should be attached. Just below the tape is usually a good location.
Jeff can't answer all questions, but I hope this helps.
13:27 is why I watch you
Honesty and reality
Im always put the faucet in the sink before put it in the vanity more easy to work .
Nice job Jeff 👏
Cheers JIm!
For those sink clamps I use a deep socket on extension and can torque the crap out of them
I stopped using metal P traps because my fingers when through one when I was inspecting under a sink in an apartment I lived in in college. Plastic doesn't rust and corrode. Although, I probably would use a metal sink basket since it doesn't constantly hold water like the p trap.
it gets hard and brittle and cracks.
I absolutely love your channel. You are helping me re-finish my entire condo! Thank you so much for these instructional videos. They really help me out.
Good video, yes, those default ones that comes with sinks , they always crack after 6 months.
Old Church... I was seeing the pipes move from inside the wall and hearing you loud and clear... Got me scared there for a second... 😜
Nice video Jeff. Thanks again.
Cheers Larry!
Good stuff stinks. Thanks for that tip 😁
12:36 - Seems like you could use a small mirror with something taped to the back, so it would sit at an angle, and let you see up behind the sink at this point. Also sink clips that have hex heads so you can use a socket, and socket driver on your drill.
I really like how you work bro
You are the real deal! Thanks!
Love this, I'm learning a whole lot. Thanks
I thought the way to seal the sink was to use the putty like you did but....same thing happened to me as it will not compress enough. Had to pull it up same as you did and use silicone.
Can you please do a video of replacing old kitchen cabinets but keeping the existing countertop? I bought a house where flipper added the new countertop but didn't update 1980 cabinets.
I just watched you put Teflon tape on a compression joint where the threads aren’t the seal. Cmon!
any thread on abs needs to have teflon to get a proper seal. There are no gaskets on abs drains.
The problem with steel is that it rots. And just when you're doing some kind of cleanout, it breaks out. Happened more than once to me. Plastic will never do that. Plastic also conforms better to a seal. It's not good for everything, but quite often its still a great option.
Also, you should always install the faucet if you can on that sink before installing it. I thought you were making things easier by installing it before you placed the sink? That self is really unnecessary too. Should have killed it. Most sink basin cabinets never have a full shelf in them.
plastic gets brittle over time and cracks, so it's a different set of problems
Those plastic strainers are garbage. I was repiping below a sink and must've notched into the pre existing one and when I tested the strainer started leaking. Got soft and Brittle over time and immediately failed. Give me ridgid materials all day long. Jeff is a rookie though, doesn't deburr any pipe and the Teflon isn't doing anything on the ptrap, it's a tapered design, seals itself hes not a plumber but good at other things.
Always a pleasure 👍🤚😎👏😀
Metal on metal not cheap plastic parts..lol..luv jeff..good stuff stinks thats how you know it's good
very old school for sure!
Omg I love ur UA-cam videos I have a ? I'm renovating a kitchen that was built about the 1970s ... my question is the sink drain measures 31\4 inches and I can not find a new sink drain that measures that it's either 3in or 31/2 so help me plz lol and no the sink has to stay can't afford new sink... thank you love watching !!!!
getting rid of the unecceary shelf under the sink would have make your life so much easier
true but it goes all the way through into the next cabinet so it is staying. Cheers!
Thanks for your video! Just would like to give some constructive feedback, clear one section, then move on to the other section. It's just confusing, you go from the drain, to the p-trap, to the drain again etc. Thanks a lot for your tips!
That's how ADHD makes you do things, lol. I know.
You forgot to add the half moon tiles at the top of backsplash. You can see where im talking about at 2:55
If the shelf didn’t go all the way back to the wall, maybe with a 3 inch gap you would be able to get a full extension in the faucet hose.
I dont useclips , I set sink temporarily, mark it with pencil, set sink then put clamps thru holes of strainer baskets and place a 1x4 on top and toghten ,pulls sink down tight
But what do you clamp to underneath?
@@susanmei9980 forgot to say I put caulk under sink dabs here and there, I clamp using those squezze clamps thru holes in bottom of sink where strainer baskets go. on top put a 3' 1x4 across sink and top of clamp hooks on 1 x 4. leave overnight, remove clamp and 1x 4 install strainer baskets etc. I had to remove my kitchen sink to add tile, it took a hydraulic jack to get sink off, holding power is more than needed, and you dont have to climb around under there and hook up those clips and you cant see what your doing. WORKS GREAT
underneath clamp hooks on bottom near drain, those clamps have rubber ..
@@timothyroche6445 I know you put a board on the top to clamp to; but there must be something under the sink to clamp too on the lower side; otherwise you’re just clamping the sink to the sink! Do you know what I mean?
@@susanmei9980 board on the bottom or whatever to put pressure on clamp
You’re the Scotty Kilmer of plumbing.
"Why do they sell you things that can fall apart?" - so they can sell them to you over and over again
"I think I know exactly what I'm doing here" - the mantra of the DIYer! LOL
right!
I would just use the plastic comes with the sink for lowering the cost on materials.. for repairs I will buy the good parts for easy installation...
I've just put a knew sink in and I've yet to find good fixing brackets to get really good compression all the way round
22:22 is the patented P-trap goblin laugh
Knipex cobra pliers is a nice tool for plumbing quite simple adjustment, now watching from above to all peasants who don’t have them 😂
Thanks I was wondering the brand and model 👍
Two questions: 1) why didn't you attach the faucet to the sink before you installed the sink? 2) why didn't you run a bead of silicon under the sink lip before you placed it in the opening?
Love your videos. Why didn't you install the faucet before you installed the sink?
i wanted to install it to the piece of counter as well. it makes it feel so much more solid.
@12:02 My sink talks about running a bead of silicone around. Does the plumbers putty work better?
Might've been answered a few seconds latter. I'm not sure if the silicone comment was in place of the plumbers putty or in addition?
I attach a quality faucet to the sink before installing the sink. Much easier.
great camera work...
I'm surprised you didn't remove the aerator before your tests... otherwise, great vid as always
Hey Jeff, why no plumber's putty on the drain install?
no need with a built in gasket. If it don't drip it ain't broken. Cheers!
I have a girlie question I am about to install new plumbing pipes under the sink and have pre connected them all the way the old ones were laid out when purchasing the waste pvc pipe Home Depot customer service suggested when I showed the old plumbing pipelines he thought that the waste line that’s connected to the tee pipe should be tiled slightly down to the tee pipe so gravity would drain better.
Do you agree with this opinion?
Thank you
In small spaces it is not necessary to have pipes tilted 1 degree however it is not good to have them sloped in the wrong direction for sure. level is just fine for small joints. Cheers!
Did you use the plumbers putty? And also which basket strainer installation method did you use?
You taught me 100x more than my dad did. Can we have a coffee?
we will see. Cheers!
Hey Jeff I'm a long time follower of your Channel but I also got to wonder do you ever watch the channel it's called the van wives they are building they're off the grid Cabin in the Woods in Canada somewhere I think the Nova Scotia. I believe you be a great asset to their Adventure
Thanks I will look into it! Cheers!
Great video, where do you get the black pipes?
Those are ABS pipes, the code in Canada.
This looks more like advanced beginners, lol.
@HomeRenoVisionDIY What was the brand and name of those slip joint pliers you were using please
yep use copper lines & Stainless hose
Thank you for the good video,very informative and useful as always.however,I have to say that to have a shelve in the sink cabinet is wiered and very unusual, but to have to install the sink with the shelve in place, is definitely not wise at all.
Remarkable!! Using cordless!! Lol
I would personally want to get rid of the middle shelf underneath the sink. Its difficult to work in that crowded space.
I agree about the cheap plastic crap.👍👍
I respectfully disagree with some things: I would put the rubber gasket and the white, possibly cardboard slip gasket go under the basket strainer between the sink bottom and top of the basket strainer with the plumbers putty under the basket on the top of the sink bottom hole for it. Using the rubber gasket inside the sink allows it to stick out and collect debris, not to mention if the slip gasket IS cardboard it can absorb water and degrade as well, possibly wicking water at some point. I LOVE Sharkbite but I am not a fan of leaving any kind of piping sticking out like that as it makes it too easy to twist and damage or fold/crimp a supply line when you are trying to turn off a line, I would have gone as far as to use a copper stub out such as the sharkbite 90 stubout and perhaps used 1/2" pipe brackets to secure the piping to the walls of the cabinet. I hope you will secure the free supply lines that were on the shelves because rapid changes in water pressures in the system anywhere will make them move around from the pressure of the water hammers and make for a needlessly noisy system.
I've yet to work on a sink area this clean.
Jeff, what brand faucet do you recommend? Something that will last for a few years (at least).
I’m 3 years into a Moen with that hand wave feature, and it might as well be brand new.
In EU we use polypropylene (PP) pipes and we dont clue pipes together. We have rubber gaskets in all PP parts (90, 45 etc.). UPONOR is the manufacturer.
Silicone instead of plumber's putty is even better. Also, don't use teflon tape on ABS fittings... if you really want to, I'd limit it to 2 layers tops and don't overtighten. Also be sure you have the correct slopes for your drain pipes. I don't think you mentioned that. You also want to wait at least 30 minutes after using ABS glue to start testing.
tbh plastic doesnt rot like that cheap pot metal tho.. after the coating is nicked or worn through its amazing how fast that pot metal degrades and rots from just tap water... as long you u use plumbers dough and dont over torque it, it will far outlast the plastic imo
in truth most folks over torque the plastic so I can't suggest it. the tailpiece will at least last 25 years!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY that is very true!!
one thing i learned installing a a strainer is that Lefty loosely doesn’t applied here
You can clearly see the lines between the 12 by 12 tile sheets.
Now I know why I don't see a shelf under the sink.