Water Methanol Injection Installation
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- This video is about Water Methanol Injection. No, really... it is. Water Methanol Injection was developed between World War I and World War II to help overloaded aircraft generate enough power to get off the ground and climb in altitude quickly. Of course, this kit is newer than that, but it works on cars, too. It works best on vehicles that are force-inducted. Essentially it offers higher final compression, and power output by cooling the intake charge and raising the octane of your air fuel mixture. There are loads of other benefits like fuel economy, its ability to steam clean the intake, combustion chamber and exhaust, but most people use it solely for the power benefits it provides. I've had this kit for a while and it was long overdue that I make a video about installing it now that I've got the bugs worked out on this car. I'm not sure how many first generation Elantras on the planet have water methanol injection installed, but I'm sure I could count them on one hand. Perhaps one finger?
The car I'm installing it on is equipped with a 1990 DSM ECU, wiring harness, ECMlink and my airflow metering system has been converted to Speed Density using GM sensors. This engine management system does not control or integrate with this water methanol injection kit, but it does offer all the tuning capabilities necessary to compensate for tuning changes that are required to get the most out of this piggyback system. I demonstrate the unboxing, part modifications, wiring, mounting bracket fabrication, parts modifications, a failsafe mechanism with schematics and details about how it works, and then I test my work. I'm not the first person to do this, but in my searches I did not find good information about installing a failsafe mechanism that wasn't bought at a retail store as a kit. Sometimes the kit is impractical as it requires driver interaction. I wanted something automatic so that I don't even have to think about it. I have enough on my mind in the staging lanes at the track to think about before I make a drag pass. That list is full.
Also: at one point a text overlay informs everyone that some of my advice only applies to OBD-II cars. I started the game with a 2nd generation Eclipse which shares the same basic engine and engine controls... but its error checking routines are different. On a 1g you can disconnect the factory boost control solenoid and it doesn't generate a check engine light. This is not the case for a second generation car. That means the relay installation for a 1g (like the car I'm doing this on) does not require the use of all 5 pins. You don't need 87 or the red wire with the inline resistors to build a working failsafe system, you just need 87a. I don't feel bad for having demonstrated how to wire it in a second generation OBD-II car. The system works either way, and perhaps there's a benefit for the voltage your car generates while the failsafe relay switches its operation, but it wasn't unnecessary in my case if I didn't have that red wire. It would only be necessary on OBD-II cars (Like Subaru WRX, Mazda RX-7, EVO, etc... OBD-II cars are typically built 1995 or later. I have no idea what happened to my text overlay at 27:28? It looks correct on my master file, and I've exported it twice and I can't fix it. It's supposed to read "This advice is for OBD-II cars, OBD-I cars do not perform BCS circuit checks."
Anyway I hope you enjoy the video. It was fun to make. If you want to know more about the history of Water Methanol Injection, there's a wikipedia page, of course there are forums on AEM's website that didn't answer any of my questions, the ECMtuning forums and Google if you need information beyond what's here... and there's a link to my Patreon page if you find my videos helpful and are interested in sponsoring my production so that I can keep doing these UA-cam-y things. Thank you for watching!
Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.o...)
Patreon: / jafromobile
PS: Yeah, I screwed up the ending screen links and graphics. It would take a day to export this again so I'm leaving it that way.
"You gotta pay more if you wanna use all the holes" 😂
fergie232 aaaaaaaaaaand demonetized. 🤣🤣🤣
Annnnnd.. that's what she said
No shortage of sexual innuendo in the automotive world.
Mathieu Levasseur that will not happen for a very long time and still is very unlikely it will every happen
100
New jafromobile! I’m stopping work on my Subaru to watch this... true car guys respect all cars equally.
Whole-heartedly agree!
Oddly, as I was watching this, near the end I thought, "I wonder if those NASIOC guys know about jafro?" The only NASIOC maintenance day I went to, (Sadly no Subie in my life currently,) was impressive both in turnout and knowledge pool. Lots of guys doing bolt on stuff, but others hacking and fabbing.
BluDog35 you said it man!
I am currently developing a flex a meth kit for myself with the potential for selling them. With the new map switching that the flex fuel cobb stuff offers the idea is that when you arm the meth kit it will map switch to the meth map. Fail safe will be off a pressure transducer in the line that will look for low pressure and too high of pressure and the ecu can map switch off of that. Subaru ECU's are pretty advanced now.
What an incredible amount of information in this one video!
I find it amazing you can keep all this information in your head. That's a feat in itself let alone putting it into practice. I never realized just how complicated it all is! Thanks for the video.
My boss just asked why I'm looking up "how to inject meth" on work computers.
Lol!
To keep the procesador colder 😁😁😁😁
easy peasy, I do it all the time !
😂
I've used W.I. for years. you have best explained it's function, as well as do's/don'ts far better than I ever could have. This is my first vid of yours to watch. Subbed.
Thank you, Sir. As to your comment of not being able to find methanol in your grocery store- where I live, in Central NY we use washer fluid that's rated for NEGATIVE 20F, perfect for your application. The only major concern, is having to change your oil more often under heavy or more frequent use. The water portion mostly boils away, keeping combustion chambers clean- but it also tends to homogenize to the oil under high revs, making a foam (colloid) in the pan, that is easily removed with a proper kerosene flush before oil change. Your engine is going to be very happy when you get this dialed in. Now- if I could just convince you into researching a "REAR mounted" turbo setup; many videos here, no intercooler, no lag, easy & cheap with your DIY skills. Stealth AF.
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP no intercooler with a rear mount? Are you relying on the water/meth then?
No, the mere length of aluminum tubing is a huge heat sink, moving through the air; you can install one- but it's usually superfluous. Check this link- ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=rear+mounted+turbo What's nice- if you have fab skills and some decent tools- you don't have to spend huge money on a "kit". DIY is yours, anyway. Make it yours! The 2 costly extras are a decent oil scavenge pump, and longer charge tubing. No more cooking and coking your turbo. It's all about volume- not psi.
Would a windage tray help?
In Jafro's application- I would think the Stock oil pan already has "baffles" and since it's a transverse FWD there's not much worry of oil control.
"Read and understand the instructions fully" - 30 seconds later, I'll figure out where that goes later.
:D The instructions made no mention of it. Best I can tell is it's intended for you to make your own grommet with wherever you punch it through the body/firewall. I wound up not needing it because my hose ran through the boot in the shifter cables.
I love the fact that you drop so much info in your vids that by the time they're done no one remembers you confusing your neighbors by walking around outside dressed up like a duck. They really must wonder what you get up to in that garage of yours.
(Chicken)
Excellent work as always Jafro, thank you for sharing it with us! I always wanted to integrate my water/methanol injection into ECM Link but never got around to it. Enjoy the results!
Thanks man! IIRC, you have the Snow Performance kit... if it also has a failsafe ground, you could do the same sort of thing. I'm just going to compensate fuel and timing in the cells wherever it's on and let the MW50 float switch control high/low boost. Are there any benefits of connecting the two? I dunno? There are so many people using so many different methods, it's hard to tell what's best? I just knew I needed to make mine idiot-proof because... well... it's mine after all...
Heck of a video!! there's an incredible amount of detail, and the fabrication and wiring was
top notch! One thing that I was particularly impressed with was how freaking stout and clean your mounting bracket for the tank and pump turned out. One of my long delayed projects is to do this install on my car.
I run in-tank E25 in conjunction with methanol injection on my Speed 3. The ethanol mix alone is sufficient for the added octane I need to run the timing and boost levels (~25psi) to safely get 390/385 @ the wheels (in good weather) on my fully bolted setup with a GT2871. I threw/tuned for the methanol on top of the E25 mix to have an extra safety layer, lowering cylinder temps hundreds of degrees more, adding even more octane, cleaning my intake valves (I'm direct-injected), and minimizing the power loss I experience in our Texas summertime heat due to lower oxygen density in much hotter air, which gives rise to higher BATs.
I know supposedly 50/50 is the best mix to run, but after extensive (years and years, thousands of drivers) experimentation on our platform, almost everyone ends up on spraying pure M1 (100%), finding it far superior. After trying 50/50, 70/30, 80/20, etc., our Speeds just seem to love 100% much more, making better power and staying much happier. Just goes to show there's no one-size-fits-all approach; different platforms respond differently.
1-year later comment update:
One thing I've learned is that push-to-connect fittings with ALWAYS leak, it's just a matter of time. Converting to stainless lines and -AN connectors is expensive, so I recommend just going to all compression fittings, which still avail the use of 1/4" OD nylon lines found it most kits. This is a much better solution, in my view.
Man, I have used this video a few times. Initial install, while swapping the nozzle sizes and such. Although I felt like I could accomplish each task. Having your video really helped dive in with confidence and knowledge. Thanks again for the post.
dont take this the wrong way jafro - but your videos are so damn soothing that I binge watch them before bed and I am out like a light. Love your stuff! haha
Well the one that goes live tomorrow is guaranteed to put you out fast. Mark my words.
The ingenuity that you’ve demonstrated across your video is inspiring to me in my work as a Parts Tech. I never thought I would say I like a Hyundai but I’m glad to be wrong here. Thanks for sharing these eh?
TheIamfrustrated its not so much hyundai per se. You could do what he's doing with any brand. It's just a matter of digging deep enough into your particular project that you learn what's possible and the various ways to get there. At least thats what I assume your referring to. Lol or maybe its the sweet body lines of his late 90's hyundai that are doin it for ya... Lol
Water/Methanol injection is just so genius. You clean your intake, lower emissions, lower temps, reduce knock and make more power. You should see these standard on normal cars. But the people driving them couldnt be bothered with filling up. I would love to implement this system on my tdi car or even a NA car.
Correct me if I misunderstand how it's wired, but if the dummy load is just switched between battery and a simple open-collector output, then dissipation of the dummy load would be (14.5v^2) / 37R = 5.7W. At a glance, those resistors look like 0.5W carbon film resistors.
While perhaps the overstress to the individual resistors might be acceptable in something that is only occasionally and briefly energized, the net ~6W dissipation inside such a tiny volume is probably going to get way too hot for the heat shrink.
Inexpensive 5W to 10W wirewound 33, 36, or 39 ohm resistors can be found on ebay or mouser. Ones with mounting tabs or cases can also be found if it's desirable to affix it to something instead. For example:
www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Wirewound-Resistors/_/N-7fx9f?P=1z0wn81Z1z0wlb5Z1z0wnl8Z1z0wn9cZ1z0wn8fZ1z0vv12Z1z0wt4wZ1z0x73vZ1z0wnlpZ1z0wnm0Z1z0x6i4Z1z0wnmxZ1z0x73o&Ns=Pricing|0
www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Wirewound-Resistors/Wirewound-Resistors-Chassis-Mount/_/N-7fx9g?P=1z0wn81Z1z0wlb5Z1z0wnl8Z1z0wn9cZ1z0wn8fZ1z0vv12Z1z0wt4wZ1z0yli7Z1z0x73vZ1z0wnlpZ1z0wnm0Z1z0x6i4Z1z0wnmxZ1z0x73o&Ns=Pricing|0
www.ebay.com/itm/Wirewound-resistor-10W-5-0-1-5-1K-Ohm-various-1-2pcs-Aluminium-Housed-Clad/182372944803?hash=item2a76464ba3%3Am%3AmQVakRDbN2fBRsEvIBKuueQ&var=484934906325
I'm thumbing this. Great info! I'm not an electrician. Like so many other things I just used what I had. When I wired it, and when I made the diagram... I had the fog of my 1995 Eclipse's BCS solenoid behavior stuck in my head from experience. My GSX is OBD-II. My Elantra is OBD-I. I made the distinction between them in the text overlays because by the time I figured out I don't even need that wire, the video was shot, animations finished, voiceover done, and because it applied to second generation cars, I left it the way it was. My ECU does NOT check for a BCS. Should that resistor pack fail or cause a problem, I'm just going to remove it. I'm going to leave pin 87 blank. YOUR INFO IS GOLD for people with OBD-II, for nearly everyone in the Subaru crowd, the Mazdaspeed crew, everyone whose stock BCS is required by the ECU. So far my proof of concept HAS worked, though, and after driving around for 20 minutes with that wire lit up, it's been cool to the touch (so far).
Okay Mr Electrical Engineer! why don't I start talking about statistics, or PHP and we can have a dick measuring contest instead of discussing something we all came here to learn and none of us clearly knew jack shit about
I run water/meth injection on my talon, probably the only thing that's kept that poor, tired, worn out POS from kicking what's left of the 3 straight rods out of the block at any given moment. Nice install!
Wait... how is the 4th rod gay? I didn't even know rods had a preference? ;)
Jafromobile lol, it's most likely bent, last time I had the head off, 3 Pistons came all the way up flush with the block but the last one is about 1/8 inch below the deck. I've been hard on this motor and apparently I'm not the first, Pistons and head look like someone threw gravel in the thing at some point. I didn't have time to deal with it then so I knocked off the sharp spots and put it back together, ran another season and a half racing it before I decided it was time to retire it.
That fail safe idea is really good. No fancy programming needed!
Though I have no plans on going anywhere near as deep into modifying my car as you do, it's fascinating watching your journey with the Hyundai. I've learned so much over the years from your videos. Proud to support you.
Mr Fromobile, could I bother you to set a timer on your next fabrication endeavor? That would give everyone a true nominal appreciation of the all the time and effort that goes into each and every episode. That said, watching you bang out that trunk bracket in real time was truly awe inspiring.
i made this for my 350 vega back in 74..i used fish tank hose and valves for the hose to regulate and turn on and off the flow.. the line was plugged into the intake manifold under the carb base plate..the other end was routed to the dash where it could be controlled by turning the valve on or off..first of a kind back then ...people scauffed at it.. i knew all about how the system worked because i was air force mechanic who learned about this ADI injection first developed by germany...they climbed higher and faster in a dog fight because the ADI prevented detonation..it works great if you are climbing hills because it will cool the combustion chambers..ect
I totaled a 1976 Vega GT once. It had a 24 point roll cage and a 468 all-roller big block. I got it about 6 feet in the air. The Silverado I landed on didn't fare to well either. I got to replace the back half of it.
yeah you most likely power shifted and went in his lane hhh...auto was the way to go with those cars..it was easier on the rear and no worries over the breakin stuff when you launched..mine was a 73 hatchback yellow with black stripes...really a nice car..drove it every day ...a real cruiser on the interstate !! 74 was a square taillight right?..its been a long time but i still remember the install and some other stuff...my engine was pure stock with headers
The organization in your narration excellent; I wish I could talk this smoothly!
it doesn't come for free.. it takes practice and willingness to do it again... of course the ability to speak clearly and get your point across does come more naturally to some...
Jafro, a little off topic of your video but... man i gotta say i love your videos. from the voice over, to the obscene amount of knowledge I've gained from watching your videos. I've been messing with the 4g63 engines for about 6 years now and have gained a lot of knowledge just from poking around on the internet and visiting a lot of forums, i feel my knowledge was much when it came to these engines, well i should say felt especially seeing your videos. You've given me lots of ideas for my own build (92 Eclipse GSX) take it good or bad haha! Love your projects, just wanted to give some appreciation of your videos and time you've spent with these videos. I'll be watching!
I always get that tingling sensation, like when you open a Christmas present, every time I see Jafro notification for a video.
Thank you patreons!
Man i missed the Rojo del Chocolate and i dint even know it, it reminds me of your older videos!
You got THREE RojoDelChocolate tracks in ONE video, too! ;)
Jafromobile I know thanks man!
'There's four things on tha thing!" -- excellent! just bought yourself a new subscriber!
I used to use water methanol daily to boost the power on my Rolls royce dart gas turbine turboprops to help drag the old girl into the air rather than go through the fence at the end of the runway!! Certainly worked!!
Yessir! That's precisely what it was invented for! Man, that's gotta be a rush.
A boost gauge is not to log boost, not to do boost leak testing, nor does it replace the logging device, it is a merely complementary device as an added verification of things. It is there so you can look at it while you are driving, make sure to put it at a spot where you can actually see the intended max boost on it easily. The reason you should have one is in case you are running an aftermarket boost controller and not controlling boost through the ecu, and it so happens for any given reason such as is a split on a hose between your 3 port and the internal or external gate, which will lead to overboosting, and or there is a malfunction with the controller not maintaining boost up to the set limit but exceeds that, or the wastegate is malfunctioning. For such reasons you need to be able to see when the turbo system overboosts even by a small margin, so as to take your foot off the throttle. Also, methanol bonds its molecules on the benzene ones and being a highly oxygenated fuel forces the benzene molecules to be burnt more completelely and more uniformly , it does not stabilize benzene molecular structure in any way. Apart from that methanol binds all the "negative" substances that are in a benzene pump fuel mix thus allowing benzene to reach its full anti-knocking potential and higher octane rating. Lastly it also cools down the combustion chamber keeping cylinder pressures in check. All these factors plus the cooling the water offers to the intake air, allows you to run higher boost pressure on denser air along with more advance timing. Good video, good work, keep it up.
LOL I see you clutch hover! I do the same too. The funny thing is people insist that I must change clutches 1-2 times a year but I don't. Not once out of all the cars I owned over the 25 years. What they don't realize is that my foot is not pushing on the clutch, just enough to tactfully feel it on the soles of my shoes, drives my car buddies crazy lol. I also use second gear to start off regularly in my DD's too haha.
The clutch that's in this Hyundai today is the same clutch that went 56,000 miles and 250 drag passes in my 3355lb AWD GSX. It's a used clutch that out-lasted THREE transmissions. Four counting the FWD one in the Hyundai. It still works like new. When it turns 500 drag passes, 100,000 miles old and finally lets go, someone will post "SEE, I TOLD YOU YOU WERE RIDING THE CLUTCH!"
Someone needs to get this man a rivnut kit and a few thousand rivnuts and bolts to suit, if I had money I would sponsor you a bunch of em, all these things you fabricate would be lighter and so much easier.
You’ll ditch the 50/50 mix real quick . The water doesn’t do much and you can’t add much timing even with a large nozzle. I ended up with a 100% VP methanol (its pretty cheap actually). If your out and don’t have any , just Use bottles of heat. Works. The only downside of 100% meth is fire , you can’t see it or smell it. But it’s worth the risk running 16deg timing with pump :) . Video on my channel of hx35 on c16 and meth at 27-28psi Ecmlink said 450hp. Over 20deg timing . :)
hereinmissoula11 We run 100% methanol in my blow-through setup as well.
If you have to use 100% meth to get real results you are doing it wrong. Typically, those with 100% mixtures are using a crap system like the AEM being installed here. They use flow by boost, which isn't what the engine is looking for. You really want flow by injector duty cycle, or flow by MAF.
With flow by boost, u reach peak boost at say 4500 rpm, and at 4500 rpm you are delivering full flow of methanol/water. This will bog your engine down, so the natural thing you do next is use a smaller nozzle. The thing is, when you use a smaller nozzle you end up with less desired flow near redline where you REALLY need Water/meth. When you use 100% methanol the bog in the midrange is less, and you get to stretch it out over the remainder of the power band. Make sense?
Ayson Baxter if u wanna spend that much on a meth system go for it. Simple Hobbs switch , big nozzle , 100% meth and go with it . 4-6 deg Timing more than the 91 I use . I agree if you have progressive rpm/map system maybe it would be better but water does not help much . I’ve tried . Nowhere near as effective as alcohol . It’s not ait temps that’s the problem, it’s the octane.
Except methanol isn't what stops detonation, it's the water itself absorbing the excesses heat during compression and combustion that does that.
Methanol by itself will raise octane, but not by more than if you mixed it directly into the fuel in the same proportions.
Skippy try spraying water and see how much more timing/boost you get in the engine without knock
Another video....that makes my weekend! And this kit finally makes it on the Elantra! Can’t wait to see the difference it makes on the track and the tune. I say, you need to make an intercooler sprayer next? With a windshield wiper pump, (the Mirage assembly you already have??) and nozzles from the garden section of Lowe’s. That way, you’ll kill some of that heat soak on the intercooler between passes. Thanks again for another greatly produced how to on this kit. Can’t wait for the next video!
Hey jaf,only seeing this video now. Never get notifications of your videos anymore. Great video, this is something I have considered doing from a long time now.
i remember that Volvo raced their 240turbo in the WTCC back in the mid 1980's and they also used water-methanol injection. They scored a world championship with that car.
The water-meth mist is injected in liquid form (a fine mist of droplets but still liquid. ) Liquid is not compressable and takes up space in the combustion chamber and therefore it functions as a compression riser. After the combustion has happened the water becomes very hot steam and steam expands very much so next to the burnt exhaust gasses it is also the steam that helps to drive the pistons down with great force. (a bit like the N in Nitrous-oxide where the oxide reacts with fuel and N forms N2 bonds. N2 is a gas and gas wants to expand)
The steam also steamcleans the piston tops, the combustion chamber walls, the sparkplugs, the exhaust valves, exhaust ports and turbine. If you have used it often you will find no carbon deposits anywhere.
Ah yes, the great painting duck always helps me with my surface finish too
Whenever I've had a rough day- I watch your videos as therapy. Superb workmanship, cool music, soothing voice. Very satisfying.
You're ducking nuts mate... 😁
that he is
one of my favorite car you tube channels covers everything
we all know where to go when we need to build something properly nuts with a safety device and brackets for days ps hurry up with the next episode I have re-watched the series more times than I can count and its making me make brackets and paint / plate stuff thats perfectly fine the way it is on my own project
The expiry date on the bottle of water is not of the water, but of the bottle. After that date, its possible the bottle has degraded and is breaking down.
Jafro- first of all, great work! Your vids are the best! I have this same kit. FYI, the aem check valves are garbage. They leak bad, a constant drip. It’s been well documented in the community. It will effect your tune and you’ll be refilling your tank frequently. With that said, Looking forward to another vid in which you address the issue. Yay for more Jafro vids!
LOL! You must have ESPN, because I have that problem. Filling up my intake while it's parked. If you drive it every day, not such a problem. All it takes is a change in the weather or sitting in direct sunlight. Due for a solenoid.
This guy is like king of random but with cars. Awesome video!!!!
I don’t have any problem with how you have done this. I just hope your present wiring harness doesn’t fail you on the track or off! If it matters for one part, it should matter for all or why bother! Just saying! I get off my box now and say good job and smart thinking on how this system was addressed. Not everyone will be onboard, but they’re probably just jealous because you came up with a common sense solution to the problem and they are clueless. You should be proud of this and I hope it yields what you want on the track. I do not advocate it’s use off, however!🙄😠😲
Good to see the Hyundai still kicking around. ProjectCarTV
Heck yeah man! It's been through a lot. I'm back on the GSX now, but the Hyundai's still kicking it.
After seeing your video I decided to install a Nitrous system in my Hyundai Sonata now I'm pushing 400 horses. Giddy up silver!
Got the notification. I find myself staring at a small renault van with the head half off after bending a valve after half-assing a cambelt swap.
Yeah, too right ill down the tools. Getting dark, beer o clock, jafro.
iwtommo too funny you wouldn’t have a clue about anything automotive nor know how to change a timing belt .do you even know how to change a tyre .maybe stop drinking you muppet
A devastating blow to my ego, im crushed.
Was it something i said?
@Gaz Girl And you do? I bet you can't even hold a screwdriver the right way.
@ Gaz Girl I've forgotten more things than you know all together. Also, you managed to describe yourself very well. Reply after you finish rebuilding and engine by yourself, you silly little bitch.
I think my videos show my abilities well enough, where are yours?
Being able to change a tyre is quite impressive, for a girl. You must be pleased with yourself.
Thank you Jafro for another perfect overly informative and opionated video. Love it. Also love that Mastodon shirt!
"You gotta pay extra to use all the holes". Literally never seen any of your videos before, but, *subscribe*
The water goes bad from potential contaminants from the inside of the jug during bottling (air contaminates or touch). Also gases can diffuse through the jug and also create an unwanted reaction theoretically.
Thankyou for the videos , nothing short of heroic!
You are like an knowledge minignu , I have to put you on 0.5 speed .
There must be five or more videos worth of content here alone , almost to much to take in in one viewing ! :)
The Scientific Method helps me break things down into more understandable chunks ..
Please keep doing what you doing , love and peace .
This was fascinating and informative I actually never heard of Water Methanol Injection before your video
Siniaya Kantrell a female interested in water meth injection lol?
I enjoyed every second in this vid! Great stuff man!
I would've put the pump under the hood somewhere that is as close to the injector as possible. I know that the injector has a check valve and backflow and all that but this is a non-continuous pressurized system, so for me having near instantaneous injection response is more important.
34:20 The expire date is for the plastic bottle... It degrades and leaches into the water over time.... The H2O never expires but it will get contaminated
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Nice videos and thank you for sharing
Dude you are smart when it comes to the electronics and fitment of everything. Like putting a puzzle together, I must ask. How did you get all your knowledge? Its a loaded question but I was wondering if you went to certain classes or if you just did independent study? Thats sick man, good job.
He said chemicals in tap water, well informed you are!
what i imagined the average dsm tuner to look like irl... lol sick ride doe
very underappreciated channel, man.
excellent detail and your tuning videos definitely gave me new perspective on tuning strategies
also maybe i play the cylinder head videos if i cant fall asleep
"You gotta pay extra if you want to use all the holes." Hmm...seems I've been told that before... LOL
You must have been to Fife, Washington.
To be failsafe the boost control solenoid needs to be wired between the normally open contacts of the relay. Connect the relay coil between a an ignition source and the trigger wire of the methanol ecu. The output methanol computer needs to sink as well as source current for this to work. This way, a broken wire or relay will fail safe.
Hands down one of my favorite content developers on UA-cam, keep it up (When you can)
These videos always come out right when Im about to go on lunch, and it's always a lunch I look forward too!
Jafro you lost me a bit with the relay circuitry - so basically when the tank empties and you get a failsafe signal on from the tank float switch, that closes the relay meaning rather than getting a signal from the actual boost solenoid, the ECU gets...a fake signal from the resistors which doesn't vary like the boost solenoid signal would, ergo ECU goes into limp mode?
fergie232 - basically yes, but it doesn't go into 'limp mode' - it just ignores boost control adjustments. Basically sets the boost control off (electrically). It's like switching off an aftermarket electronic boost controller. In Jafro's case, using the relay like he did also keeps the ecu from going into limp mode because it shows voltage where the ecu expects to see it when everything is ok. :)
You have a great question, and Eric K is 100% spot-on. The only gap not bridged is about the float switch. When the float switch circuit opens, it's the controller that pulls ground to the relay when it enters "boost safe" mode. The relay is always "powered", but it's not a complete circuit that does anything until it sees ground. The solenoid doesn't actually provide a signal. The ECU activates the solenoid exactly the same way as the controller triggers the relay, by pulling ground. The boost control solenoid is simply a 12v electromagnetic switch that opens and closes a vacuum port. Golden question.
Yea, the resistor lets the ECU think the BCS is still connected. The relay by default is in the failsafe mode. Once the controller sees it all clear it then energizes the relay to complete the circuit to the BCS. If the controller loses power or detects a fault the relay is denergized and the BCS is bypassed, so u run wastegate pressure.
What this means is that you should tune for WMI about 3 psi or so above WG pressure, with anything below that use regular timing and AFR targets.
Awesome video jafro... really glad you went the water meth route. excited to see how the car performs and how far you take it.
You are Awsome and every car guy needs your channel
🤣 I think you just like saying “ convoluted tubing”...!🤣💪🏼❤️👍🏻
Maaan, I can watch and listen to your channel all day long!
Is that weird 🤷🏻♂️🤣🤣🤣
I don’t care🤣🤣🤣
Did you know that the orange road cone things are called deflognosticators? It's been kept a secret for over 55 years (until now).
@@Jafromobile omg, I did not!!!
Not all heroes wear capes.
Some wear a duckling costume and drive old inconspicuous elantras.
Another great video, I recently found your channel and subbed.
Keep it up. Cheers!
Jafro! On the tuning front, you can do like I do: I've got a tiny acer ultrabook running only the tuning software required for my setup on it, stuck in the glove box with a car laptop charger. The ultrabook was payment for helping my neighbors take some old furniture to good will, and the car laptop charger was $20 on Amazon.
Thats a good shout. 12v to 19v(?) converter for the charger?
It's a 12v to OEM plug, looks just like a wall charger except with a 12v plug on the input end. Seem to be made for quite a few different laptops, too.
i wasn't going to watch this when i saw it was 40 minutes but after the way you where talking. this has 4 things on the thing? lmao come on bro, thumbs up and I stayed the whole 40 minutes.
I do my best to give you a half hour that's better than television. Of course that video might be over an hour long... but that half hour of it though...
Holley did this 35 yrs ago with a washer tank. 👍 Worked.
Okay I think I got it... I'm supposed to cut the blue wire and connect it to the red wire with 6 37 amp capacitors. Then spray water all over my engine bay and cut a hole in my intake so I can hear the knock and safe guard my car. Cause all the water might make my engine too cold to burn the meth and I have to put a screwdriver in a box in my dash to tune the relay to make it warmer and stop the knock before the bottle is empty. But if it is empty the relay will stop the backflow so it doesn't make it to the gate and get wasted. Easy peasy. I don't know why people have such a hard time. There's a youtube video for anything you wanna know. Next up, fixing Mr. Whiskers limp. Heeeerree kitty kitty....
I am 2 minutes in, I have never seen one of your videos... instantly subbed and liked.
"You have to pay extra if you want to use all the holes."
Good people like Mastodon!! Very nice video and install!
I don't agree a boost gauge is useless. mounted properly where it doesn't block other lights I always note in my mind what boost my car should run at at what rpms and its a good tool to have to ensure your running at proper boost.
Awesome narration. Love your channel. I subscribed.
I think its called "corrugated" tubing.
Great video... a Lot of work went into this.
I'm gonna do this to my 7.3L Diesel now.
JK.
its an old joke thats why he calls it convoluted
No really! It is called convoluted tubing. lol. Google it and see what comes up. Then, AFTER you do that, search "corrugated tubing" and see what comes up. Laugh at the comparison. Google doesn't say "did you mean..." either. ;) I delight in the fact that it's called convoluted tubing because it's a pain in the ass.
always learning from the jafroman!
Your argument on boost gauges could be used for AFR gauges as well. No? It's not always useful but it's good to watch for over-under target checking. I like gauges with warning beeps as well.
You should be going to MIT. Yeah but i got that A D. Attention deficit disorder? Yes that shit. Something about engines calms me down. That came to mind watching you work.
Actually methanol is found at your corner store. Just about any gas station you stop in will sell the yellow bottles of Heet gas line antifreeze. It's 99% pure methanol and when i was using on my 1g it cost .99 for a 12 oz bottle. Way cheaper than any of the premixed boost juice stuff, allows you to make your own custom mix and can literally be found at almost every gas station.
Wow, pretty complicated for me. I made one for my Jeep. Just 2 wires, 2 switches, a bottle, hose, a windshield washer pump from an S10, and the sprayers are spray bottle nozzles I mounted in the carb air cleaner pan over carb and are adjustable. and costed like $15 bucks. Even got a warning light for when the bottle runs low but is useless since the bottle is right next to me. I hit my button at 3500 rpm when the 4 barrels open up and what a kick in the ass.
Thank you for all the detailed info on your failsafe. Likely not going to be a large deal to me since I'll be using it more for cooling air mass than boost timing...but, I tend to be the belt and suspenders type when I'm 100 miles into the desert with no help available....
I do that, too. You should check out my offshore greenhorn fishing video, lol. 5 miles offshore might as well be 100 miles into the desert.
@@Jafromobile Will look at the video. And I agree...big reason I'm going supercharged is to be able to tow a boat capable of the occasional 40+ mile trip straight out for Albacore. Though doing that, we pretty much always run buddy-boats because stuff happens.
Jafro!!! I noticed your Mastodon T-shirt, I always knew you were cool! Lol🤘
At 15:38 who was that masked man!?😱
Russell Mostrom 😅🤣🦆🐥
Your $20 Fail-Safe definitely is a lot better than spending an extra for $500 on the kit they sell!!... I made my own water-methanol kit out of a windshield washer sprayer luckily it had a float switch in it that would normally turn a light on in the dash telling you to add windshield washer fluid I also just used a pump safe 4 water methanol I just don't have Progressive control over the spray but my way cost less than half of the $500 kit you used because I don't have a progressive controller in my pressure should stay relatively constant I'm wondering if I can't use a fuel pressure gauge and sender has another way of monitoring the system too high a pressure would indicate a clogged nozzle to lower pressure would indicate a disconnected line Etc
With enough relays, pressure sensors, and potential points for failures, you can make a circuit with any number of conditions you could ever encounter. One where all conditions have to be met in order to make the pump squirt, or to even unleash all of the timing and boost your car can make. The progressive kit monitors 5 conditions and gives one output for failure. It monitors short to ground to the pump, open circuit to pump, low voltage, low fluid, and controller fault. Those are the 5 worst if you're good about preventative maintenance. Being able to catch all 5 of those faults with only one relay is pretty dang convenient, I won't lie... but mine does not monitor pump pressure.
I've always seen a boost gauge as a method to make sure things are mostly working. Not as good as a logging a map sensor but useful if something goes wrong and you notice you are making 10 psi more boost than you should be.
Loving the setup, failsafe and your a funny guy
Would love to see you work on Evos or Subies !
While Methanol isn't so easily found, ethanol is. And ethanol is both the safer and easier to find option. It's sort of the reason E85, and other flex fuels, now use ethanol now instead of wood alcohol.
just make sure you are careful if spraying water/meth during cold weather. If the charge temp is cold enough the mixture will no vaporize and will pool as a liquid at the back of the intake essentially putting a impressionable liquid in the back cylinders and cracking your pistons.
Nice tip! Hey I've got other issues related to weather and water/meth. If you bought this kit and you have a spare hydraulic solenoid sitting around to shut off the MW50 line when the car is off, maybe just go ahead and install it. If you don't, expect it to slowly empty itself into your intake as temperatures rise and fall. Maybe won't hurt you on a cold start, but if you let it warm up and then hit the throttle... probably cause the same problem. Cracky pistons. I know I need to install one because I found my car is doing this as it sits. It doesn't help me to have an intercooler full of MW50, but I'm not driving this thing at all right now. Still has drag radials at 15PSI and it's too [expletive] cold to drive anything without heated seats. I'm working on other projects at the moment that I should really be doing in warmer weather... and faking on camera like I'm not freezing my giblets off.
That time lapse was awesome
You should add a dry nitrous kit after the intercooler (a small shot 30hp) to cool your intake temps. For every degree you bring down your intake temps it's like a 2rwhp gain. I did this on a neon I worked on and it went from beating a car by a fender to beating it by busses.
Ive been scratching my body non stop for the past 2 days, waiting on another video...
I use the boost guage to monitor MPG. If your using more turbo on the flats at your normal speed. Even leaky tires can bump the needle from -10 average to -5 . They are quite sensitive in vacuum.
Great informational video and I really like how in depth you go. I also liked the Duck outfit, it was a great touch!
I have a 2016 Audi A6 with a 2.0Turbo that is direct injected and been wanting tom install one of these just for prevention of carbon buildup on the intake valves.
fun fact the expiration date on bottled water is not for the water it self but it is for the plastic bottle that it is stored in
Always a pleasure to watch this guy work. I had alot of fun. Thanks bro.
I never thought I would learn soo much from an installation video. Thank you
22:43 You need to get a set of open barrel crimpers for those terminals to get those crimped nicely
So you used 8 bolts to hold the container but 2 bolts to hold it to the car?
Fascinating!
Hahah. Yeah. There's some logic in it, though. The 8 little bolts and nuts go into a plastic bottle. The 2 bolts in the floor are 3x as thick as the little ones and bolt metal to metal with a huge flange area. It makes removing the whole system easier if I ever have to.
"There's four things on the thing"... enough said right there.