I agree! I do the exact same thing! I like the fascia to extend about an inch above the layout surface and 2" below the lowest visible framing member. That looks good and prevents trains from falling off the layout, and lets you put a curtain behind the fascia hanging from under it. I originally stained and varnished the fascia to reveal the wood grain, but that exposed the seams and the corners, so I used drywall Spackle (a.k.a. "mud") to blend the seams and painted the fascia glossy back which gives it a high-tech look.
I will also add that the green color is another great touch! Some paint theirs black but the scenery and green facia gives a great feel of summer and life. I also use Glade Pine air freshener to add to the sense of smell. Great video Ron! Getting your exercise from the basement to the garage. 😂
Another top notch video Ron. I never considered using latex caulk to seal the fascia seams, great idea as the caulk will flex somewhat compared to joint compound. Thx
Thanks for the great video! It is always so interesting the approaches various people use for this. For my layout, we used 1/8" flexible plywood and stained dark green. It is absolutely fantastic and bending it to even 6" diameter curves are a breeze! We also glued to the edge of the bench work so that no fasteners are visible, it is absolutely smooth.
Ron, I absolutely agree a finished fascia and valance take any layout up a level or even two. My crew has finished the fascia on my layout but taken it a step further. The Masonite is glued to the structure and where wood is behind it it is further nailed with an air nailer. Once sanded, the joints and nail divits are covered with DAP flexible spackling. That way any flexing does not create cracks or pop off at the divits. My outside corners are all rounded with two as small as a 2" radius. Just spray the Masonite with water, let it get good and soaked, then pull around a rigid form (Plastic pipe).
Great tutorial Ron and that fascia matched up nicely! I'm glad I'm subscribed to your channel bcuz you definitely give great ideas on how to enhance a layout! Every time I watch your videos I'm taking notes of what to do! Thanks again for sharing your videos and look fwd to seeing the next one!
Looks absolutely great Ron! Always great work. For my portable Modular Setup, I have used 1/4" black plexiglass for protection against dents and dings. But for my permanent layout, I plan to do the same kind of setup as you are doing. I am still going back and forth between having the fascia black or green. Decisions.
It sure is a lot of fun watching!! I sure do loran some good stuff and for me just now starting off I do need all of the help too lol!!! Take care and see you later!!!
My 2¢ on fascia color. I m still under construction, but have tried several different colors. The first, the one I will be trying to achieve in the future, was a Humbrol dark green. What I will likely end up with is Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Hunt Club Green, satin. This color is so neutral it just disappears, will not distract from your landscaping. It is very close to what you have in this video, maybe a tad bit darker.
Ron, nice video. I recently read in the Jan 2022 issue of Model Railroader magazine (p. 40) in an article by Marshall Sommer a recommendation to insert wax paper between the fascia and the benchwork framing prior to landscaping (along the new fascia). Once the landscaping is complete, loosen the fascia screws and remove the wax paper. This will avoid getting paint, glue, ground cover, etc onto the fascia thus resulting in a clean boundary. Any thoughts on this?
Well you got the curve of that corner perfect, can you please share the exact radius of that facia in the corner? I’m kidding. It looks really nice and as always you did a great tutorial.
Always Grrrrreat tips! Never thought about using Masonite for wall corners and does a better when trying to cut for the terrain. What color green, I assume just a latex?
Ron, not that I’m against curved fascia corner, but what makes them more professional? To continue with your “professional” theme, then maybe recess your toggle switches!
Why truss head screws? They have a curved top which will protrude out slightly from the facia after installation...unless you countersink them slightly. How about dry wall screws instead...1"? They will install flush with the fascia and hold everything just as well as truss head.
You cannot countersink with 1/8" Masonite. It will just pull through. The truss head gives a finished look and solid hold without having to hide the screw head.
Hello, “masonite” was invented by W.H.Mason in 1924 who added the Latin suffix “ite” to his surname; therefore it should be read and pronounced exactly as it is spelled “meson-ite” (precisely from the Latin “ites”) and not “meson-ait” (with English pronunciation)
For more on installing valances and backdrops, click on this playlist: ua-cam.com/video/k8Kpl6VsgL0/v-deo.html
That certainly does look very clean and professional Ron.
This is a much better video on how to install Fascia than that budget do it your self guys version of installing Fascia, this actual looks real nice.
Thanks. I am very pleased with it.
I agree! I do the exact same thing! I like the fascia to extend about an inch above the layout surface and 2" below the lowest visible framing member.
That looks good and prevents trains from falling off the layout, and lets you put a curtain behind the fascia hanging from under it.
I originally stained and varnished the fascia to reveal the wood grain, but that exposed the seams and the corners, so I used drywall Spackle (a.k.a. "mud") to blend the seams and painted the fascia glossy back which gives it a high-tech look.
Looking really nice Ron thanks for sharing!
I will also add that the green color is another great touch! Some paint theirs black but the scenery and green facia gives a great feel of summer and life. I also use Glade Pine air freshener to add to the sense of smell. Great video Ron! Getting your exercise from the basement to the garage. 😂
Yes, black is popular now because it sets off the modeled portion like a shadow box, but I just can't make myself like it.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing!
It really looks great! Thanks for sharing!
great video your doing a great job and the backdrops look awesome
Looking great so far! Thanks for the tips, Ron
Nice job, Ron. That’s looking really great!👍
Great video Ron. I agree with the coving of the corners. Really makes the layout look bigger than it is. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Hi Ken. Thanks. It is good to hear from you.
Another top notch video Ron. I never considered using latex caulk to seal the fascia seams, great idea as the caulk will flex somewhat compared to joint compound. Thx
Thanks for the great video! It is always so interesting the approaches various people use for this. For my layout, we used 1/8" flexible plywood and stained dark green. It is absolutely fantastic and bending it to even 6" diameter curves are a breeze! We also glued to the edge of the bench work so that no fasteners are visible, it is absolutely smooth.
I like the contour and calking technique for the joints.
It will not chip like plaster wall fill etc.
Excellent presentation and beautiful result! (Thank you, Noah, for your assistance)😊
Ron, I absolutely agree a finished fascia and valance take any layout up a level or even two. My crew has finished the fascia on my layout but taken it a step further. The Masonite is glued to the structure and where wood is behind it it is further nailed with an air nailer. Once sanded, the joints and nail divits are covered with DAP flexible spackling. That way any flexing does not create cracks or pop off at the divits. My outside corners are all rounded with two as small as a 2" radius. Just spray the Masonite with water, let it get good and soaked, then pull around a rigid form (Plastic pipe).
Great tutorial Ron and that fascia matched up nicely! I'm glad I'm subscribed to your channel bcuz you definitely give great ideas on how to enhance a layout! Every time I watch your videos I'm taking notes of what to do! Thanks again for sharing your videos and look fwd to seeing the next one!
This looks great!
Looking good. I have always preferred the curved approach,bit of extra work,but worth it !
absolutely stunning layout fella, love your work. greetings from th4e UK :)
Excellent demo 👍 • Cheers from the Detroit & Mackinac Railway 🚂
always helpful
Thanks for sharing.
Looks absolutely great Ron! Always great work. For my portable Modular Setup, I have used 1/4" black plexiglass for protection against dents and dings. But for my permanent layout, I plan to do the same kind of setup as you are doing. I am still going back and forth between having the fascia black or green. Decisions.
Enjoyed the video you done thanks for sharing.
Great video
It sure is a lot of fun watching!! I sure do loran some good stuff and for me just now starting off I do need all of the help too lol!!! Take care and see you later!!!
Very good video and exactly what I do but I wet the back side of the Masonite at the curves before bending .
Thanks again Ron.
Mike
Nice video, and good call to have an experienced guy named Noah help with the carpentry. This something I need to do.
Looks good
You can also use a small router and a flush trim bit with a bearing to shape your fascia to your land scape.
My 2¢ on fascia color. I m still under construction, but have tried several different colors. The first, the one I will be trying to achieve in the future, was a Humbrol dark green. What I will likely end up with is Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Hunt Club Green, satin. This color is so neutral it just disappears, will not distract from your landscaping. It is very close to what you have in this video, maybe a tad bit darker.
Thanks for the tip.
Ron, nice video. I recently read in the Jan 2022 issue of Model Railroader magazine (p. 40) in an article by Marshall Sommer a recommendation to insert wax paper between the fascia and the benchwork framing prior to landscaping (along the new fascia). Once the landscaping is complete, loosen the fascia screws and remove the wax paper. This will avoid getting paint, glue, ground cover, etc onto the fascia thus resulting in a clean boundary. Any thoughts on this?
What Blade is best on Jig Saw? Fine tooth metal?
Yes, or the finest wood blade you can find. If the contours are very curvy, narrower is better too.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks! My next project this Spring after more Switch replacements.
Ron 10 months ago you posted a video on no ox have you had to clean track since then and how is it working.
I plan to post a 1 year update on no-ox.
What make of traks do you use. I'll start a new project and wander if its some make tahts bether than others. eks kato, Bachman, Pico and so on.
I use Pekin track and turnouts because they are virtually bullet proof.
Well you got the curve of that corner perfect, can you please share the exact radius of that facia in the corner? I’m kidding. It looks really nice and as always you did a great tutorial.
But how did you paint your fascia? Brush? Roller? Airbrush?
Yes, I just brush paint it with inexpensive flat interior latex paint.
Always Grrrrreat tips! Never thought about using Masonite for wall corners and does a better when trying to cut for the terrain. What color green, I assume just a latex?
Ron, not that I’m against curved fascia corner, but what makes them more professional? To continue with your “professional” theme, then maybe recess your toggle switches!
I like it
Why truss head screws? They have a curved top which will protrude out slightly from the facia after installation...unless you countersink them slightly. How about dry wall screws instead...1"? They will install flush with the fascia and hold everything just as well as truss head.
You cannot countersink with 1/8" Masonite. It will just pull through. The truss head gives a finished look and solid hold without having to hide the screw head.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Nobody said anything about counter sink. Not needed.
Will you come and install my fascia? I cannot cut a straight line :(
Hello, “masonite” was invented by W.H.Mason in 1924 who added the Latin suffix “ite” to his surname; therefore it should be read and pronounced exactly as it is spelled “meson-ite” (precisely from the Latin “ites”) and not “meson-ait” (with English pronunciation)
Looks amazing!!!
Thanks for the tips.