If I was smart, And Im not, I would leave my comment to the end, , Not one minute three seconds in! 😂 But I whole heartedly agree with your opening statement. And i'm not going to be as polite as you. People build these absolutely beautiful layouts... With raw dry wall And Econo stud two by fours! You know, The kind they make hockey sticks out of. I mentioned this in a very diplomatic way in a forum and I was ripped apart. Simply asked: Those of you out have such gorgeous layouts, Why don't you at least throw a coat of paint on the legs and back wall? I'm not rich so mine's not going to be anything fancy.But I'm going to do the best.I can with what I have available to me in my price range. But I will have some sort of backdrop even if it means I have to hand paint, and I'm already making making my own stain.
Great tips. I agree, I painted my fascia flat black. After while it started to look like a chalkboard. So I used to satin finish and it acts as a barrier. No more scuff marks.
Like your use of mdf. I am doing same with my layout, all curves except a couple of walls (ie narrow shelving going into dormer). What I found that has worked well for me to make REALLY tight curves is to use original Windex that contains ammonia. I saturated both sides of the 'bend' and put it up with brad nailer to drywall. It has held its shape amazingly well after several months. Not sure what YT channel I learned that from. Only issue I had was I had placed several panels of photographic backdrop and realized I didn't get them lined up correctly so creeped up. Had to replace four panels and in the process of removing the backdrop from the mdf, I pulled the mdf out of the wall (used to small/too few brads). Correcting that now. I have rough cut the fascia and still debating terrain oriented fascia vs flat along all the edges. No rush on that yet. I'm still debating. Great video!
If your budget is starting to sweat, for a straightedge, you can always use a STRAIGHT 2 x 4 clamped at each end. Don't push very hard against it in mid stream, and remember, the rough side can go down.
I use a jigsaw. You'll want to ensure the fasica is securely mounted before attempting it otherwise it make shake loose. It also makes a mess, so be prepared for that!
Looks great. The strips on the wall are called firring strips. Keep up the good work it's coming along nicely.
Thanks so much!
Fantastic, Matt! Look forward to seeing the backdrops and fascia painted and complete. - John
Thanks!
If I was smart, And Im not, I would leave my comment to the end, , Not one minute three seconds in! 😂 But I whole heartedly agree with your opening statement. And i'm not going to be as polite as you. People build these absolutely beautiful layouts... With raw dry wall And Econo stud two by fours! You know, The kind they make hockey sticks out of.
I mentioned this in a very diplomatic way in a forum and I was ripped apart. Simply asked:
Those of you out have such gorgeous layouts, Why don't you at least throw a coat of paint on the legs and back wall? I'm not rich so mine's not going to be anything fancy.But I'm going to do the best.I can with what I have available to me in my price range. But I will have some sort of backdrop even if it means I have to hand paint, and I'm already making making my own stain.
Great tips. I agree, I painted my fascia flat black. After while it started to look like a chalkboard. So I used to satin finish and it acts as a barrier. No more scuff marks.
That hard board is also called Masonite. Lowes/HD will rip it into 2 - 2'x8' (or) 3 - 16"x8' which is good for N scale backdrops.
Dude... love your Tshirts
Like your use of mdf. I am doing same with my layout, all curves except a couple of walls (ie narrow shelving going into dormer). What I found that has worked well for me to make REALLY tight curves is to use original Windex that contains ammonia. I saturated both sides of the 'bend' and put it up with brad nailer to drywall. It has held its shape amazingly well after several months. Not sure what YT channel I learned that from. Only issue I had was I had placed several panels of photographic backdrop and realized I didn't get them lined up correctly so creeped up. Had to replace four panels and in the process of removing the backdrop from the mdf, I pulled the mdf out of the wall (used to small/too few brads). Correcting that now. I have rough cut the fascia and still debating terrain oriented fascia vs flat along all the edges. No rush on that yet. I'm still debating. Great video!
Great tips!
If your budget is starting to sweat, for a straightedge, you can always use a STRAIGHT 2 x 4 clamped at each end. Don't push very hard against it in mid stream, and remember, the rough side can go down.
😊
I like to leave mine flat at the front then come in with a wire saw once I’ve put the foam down foams a lot easier to replace than the wood
Do you have a link for the circular saw rail guide you mentioned?
What color did you use on the backdrop? The new layout looks great!
It’s a Valspar color called “Perfectly Blue”
What's a good way of cutting facial when it's already in place
I use a jigsaw. You'll want to ensure the fasica is securely mounted before attempting it otherwise it make shake loose. It also makes a mess, so be prepared for that!
@@MFRailroad Yes its very messy. I thought someone made something smaller. Thanks 😊
@@chrisshoulders4066 I think Dremel has a jigsaw-like tool that may work, but I'd be worried about breaking it on masonite.
@@MFRailroad Thanks
The RR1 was the
Both Lowe’s and Home Depot will cut your Masonite/hardboard for the width you would like.
Awesome. I couldn't get them to do it for me when I was there, but maybe they didn't like the look of me.