Add A DCC System To Your Model Railroad pt1 (107)
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2020
- While you can just plop your DCC system on a board or sheet of plywood under your layout you can make it last a lot longer if you go the extra mile and install it in an enclosure with a fan to keep it cool and dust free. There are also some nice touches you can add such as a clear acrylic door and DCC Concepts Alpha Meter to give you a readout of the voltage and amperage that the command station or booster is supplying. Having your wiring neatly arranged in the enclosure can also help when it comes to trouble shooting the inevitable issues that may pop up. So take a few minutes to watch me build an enclosure in part 1 and in part 2 we'll add the fan and other niceties along with the DCC components and power supply.
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Enjoyed the video Larry. Thanks and looking forward to part 2.
Great video Larry thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this. I've been throwing ideas around in my head for something like this and you've given me some ideas! TO THE WORKSHOP!
Greg-Good to see you’re still here. This is a second generation design but there is nothing sacred to it. The main thing is to make sure you have enough outlet area to equal or exceed the fan inflow. More on that on Monday when we start putting in the components. Right now the second coat of paint is drying and I’m off to walk the dog.
@@TheDCCGuy Too hot to walk anywhere here today! 85 with very high humidity. Supposed to reach well over 90 later. I was thinking of using 2 fans. I've got a bunch around from when I was a computer tech. I was thinking an inflow and outflow idea to keep things moving.
Yes, that might help, i just added a second 3” outlet on the rear near the top along with the others I showed in the video. The trouble with 2 fans is you also get twice the noise so pay attention to the dBA rating of the fans.
Here in the mountains of NC it was 70 when I started and it will go up to the mid-80s this afternoon. It beats the Wash. DC area where I moved from.
I wish it could afford a DCC system like that! Maby someday...
There are multiple dcc systems. Very affordable. Search for Roco Z21 (with capital letter Z). Or digikeijs DR5000
Tomasz Kubiak Thank you! I will check those out
You could be setting yourself up for an issue with your cooling and dust. If you are blowing you need a filter box over the fan. Area of filters 2 to 4 times exit hole area for the fan. If no filter the fan will increase the dust build up. Recommended you add some more holes that total up to the area of the cooling fan exit area. This stop over pressuring or limit air volume. You normally put your cold air into the bottom and take your hot air out the top. If you go against this you will have hot spots some were in your box. Hope this helps regards paul
You haven’t seen part 2 yet, wait for it!
@@TheDCCGuy look forward to it. keep up the great work.
Larry - I built the box and added the DCC Concepts Alpha Meter as well as their surge protector, as well as using the PSXX3 circuit breakers, and Daisey changed like you did, and used a new NCE PH PRO-R Wireless Radio 5 Amp Power Pro DCC System 524-002. My problem taking the PSXX out and adding to my box is that for some reason, I am not getting the trains to run. If I by pass the circuit breakers and connect to my output on my DCC Concepts Alpha meter, it works! So what am I doing wrong? BTW I have not soldered any points to move the circuits up from 1 amp, like you say you can do? Also is there a better video to watch to problem solve all this?
First in what order are all these connected? The output from the DCC system should go to the Alpha Meter then to the PSXX boards and from them out to the various blocks. The surge suppressor(s) should be connected to the DCC bus wires at their ends. Since everything seems to work when the PSXX boards are removed it sounds like you have an issue there. Without any jumpers or changes to CV49 you should get 2 amps trip current from each PSXX board, plenty to start with. Assuming you have set up everything correctly then I would check the PSXX connections and setup again. You might try connecting to one PSXX board at a time to see if there is a problem with any of the 3. If that doesn’t turn up anything it might be time to contact Larry Maier.
I would use the tablesaw to cut the plexi. Less chance of cracking it.
If you need a programming track booster like the Soundtraxx PTB-100 then this can go in the box too.
Good idea, keeps it safe and out of the way.
I have a lot of different length deck screws so I tend to use them a lot. Do not use an impact driver on deck screws or you will break off the heads. Don't ask me how I know this.
When doing glue-up on wooden boxes, I find Gorilla glue to be the strongest bonding glue.
Can I use nce power controller with bachmann ez track?
Yes
Where did you get your power supply? How much was it
I’ll be providing a list of materials in the description. The power supply came from Jameco.com and is rated at 15 volts, 10 amps and was about $25. They have a variety of these in various voltage and amperage combinations so you can easily find one to meet your needs. My DCS240 can put out either 5 or 8 amps so I used the 10 amp model and fused it at 8 amps.
What was the source of the power supply you are using?
Read the description to part 2.
Where do you have a power strip?
I have one behind the location for the DCC system. I then plug in the power supply and several wall warts for the radio receivers, and wifi interface. The power strip is then plugged into one of the remote controlled sockets I showed in the video on 5 gadgets. When I turn it on everything for thenDCC system powers up.
What is the power supply you are using
I found my question answered. But "fusing" it for 8 volts is confusing to me. Where do you get power for it?
Larry, why 3/4" plywood? Seems to me your building a box seat more than a power supply housing. Seems to me that 1/2" is more than sufficient and even 3/8" if you use Baltic Birch which would be 5-7 ply. Also for all my Telescope Mirror Boxes I glued and screwed using Tite Bond II wood glue. You could always leave one end just with screws if you need to ever pull it apart readily.
It’s not plywood, its solid wood. I probably could have used 1/2” plywood but when butt joining wood I prefer not to use plywood as you run the chance of splitting it out, especially 3 ply. Plus it saves having to rip plywood to the final dimensions. Just a personal preference thing.
@@TheDCCGuy I get it. Don't recall your location but check out Baltic Birch if you're East or ApplePly if West. Its furniture grade plywood. A 5/8" piece has 11 or 13 ply. It butt joins snd dovetails very well. I used it solely in the construction of a Telescope mirror box and rocker box. In one section I used two thicknesses of 5/8" Baltic Birch for rigidity. It takes a stain well and allows for a good coating of Marine Spar Polyurethane very well. I even used Butcher's Wax on that when it was all done and coated.
Will you be doing a video like this for a NCE ProCab system?
Sorry but not likely as I do not own one and don’t know anyone with one. However there would be very little difference overall, just change the dimensions of the enclosure to suit the components.
I have a similar arrangement for my NCE Power Pro: A large transformer, the Power Pro command station, three EB1 circuit breakers, a Soundtraxx PTB-100 for the programming track and an Alpha Meter. All the components are laid out horizontally in 30 inches long, 10 inches deep and 8 inches high. They would probably fit if it was 20 inches long but the shelf everything sits on is fixed between two sets of legs that happen to be 30 inches apart.
Amazing how that works out like that!