Nice! I've done about the same thing, except with 2x4s instead of DuctSeal. (I can slide them in and out, about every 500 rounds of .177, as the wood starts to "thin* to a critical depth in spots.) Frame is a mini-pallet of 20x24"; handles and footers included; painted with colors of my house.
Great idea and improvising! I would use that mat between the duct seal and steel plate to dampen noise if penetrating occurs. But, what do I know Lol 🤷♂️ it’s more of an educated guess/ suggestion as I’m new to this now expensive hobby I got into when I bought my first Gamo air rifle to deal with a horde of rats living under my apartment a few months ago. Now I’m fully addicted and have 2 air rifles and 3 more magnum breakers on the way (2 Hatsan’s and Sig ASP20 whiskey 3 combo all in .22) all break barrels as PCP seems out of my depth even though they look fun. I love this idea of yours and your target is perfect to take on the opening day of squirrel season to check holdover beyond 20yds for accuracy. It’s even versatile/portable enough with the handle to attach rope/nylon cord to hoist over a heavy tree branch to check POA/POI at varying elevated degrees with my range finder for accurate shot placement. I’m by no means handy with homemade projects like that. I definitely have more of a Wall Street business mind, as opposed to improvised self engineering like a lot of people and try to keep things within my limitations. I’m rudimentary with tools, although, I am indeed learning a great deal about the general understanding of how air rifles operate and little tips that make things easier via UA-cam videos from dedicated people like yourself. I even modded my Crosman Prowler trigger by myself with the help of UA-cam and forums. Basically I’m the worst handyman as far as instinct goes, but I’m definitely learning as I go and seeing the value of having the tools to do so even if it’s through trial and error... experience is priceless thank you for taking the time making these videos for guys like me (even though most won’t admit when they have little to no clue and just wing it) to make this hobby more enjoyable ✊
I am pretty sure it is Gardner Bender brand duct seal in the 1 pound blocks I got but there are other similar brands out there. I got mine in the electrical dept. at Home Depot and it is also available from Amazon. It is pricey but with using the steel plate in the back you can get away with less duct seal.
Very nice silent pellet trap. I have high powered air rifles and the pellets make some serious noise upon Impact. This seems like it would do the trick to stop the pellets quietly. If you don't mind what brand of duct seal is that and where did you get that from?? I can only find the 1/2 gallon water based fiberglass stuff that is taking forever to setup and cure.
Good Job! Great Vid! Best Info... Ive been looking up all kinds of Videos over the last few days on here trying to come up with ideas on building a Trap/Backstop and out of all of them Im liking this one the best. Rock on!!! ~DrJones~ [01/19/18] #HPAirguns #PelletTraps #ItsNotAFirearm #DrJones #KyAirGunners #GunSafetyFirst
Do the duct seal keep their properties in winter if stored outside in deep freezing temperature? Duct seal are cheap but when you have to buy like a dozen it begins to be expensive. I thought laying them flat for 1 inch depth would have been enough thickness but after watching your video , they need to be on their side for more thickness. My other concern is the 2x4 frame.. what happen when you totally miss the target and hit the frame? Does the pellet bounce back dangerously? Or do they penetrate the wood?
Duct seal is used outside for sealing around electrical wires and pipes that goes through exterior walls. It does tend to slowly loose its oils? and flexibility over time from what I see. The thickness used depends on the power of the air rifle and the distance away you place the target. In my opinion if shooting mid power rifles up to say 30 to 35 fpe a single layer lay flat would do fine with the target place over 25 yards away. I have never had a pellet bounce out of the duct seal. I use my box mainly inside for testing so I do not need a large area to shoot and missing the box is not a problem. Outside where a larger target surface can be needed I use rubber mulch and the target is placed further away.
Hi, great video. Would this setup be sufficient in a champion metal box shot with a Benjamin marauder .25? Can I get away with the duct seal layered flat or stacked liked you did? Thank you
I just added the duct seal to my champion metal box and plan to use welcome mats loosely stapled in front of that stuff so duct seal will hardly get penetrated. That's my plan anyway.
adrewfis in theory that’s a great idea... however long term those welcome mats will get chewed up and you’ll have rubber pieces (or whatever the mats are made from) everywhere if you’re using it as a frequent target. I would use the welcome mat as a layer between the duct seal and steal steel plate to preserve the structural integrity of the steal longer and noise dampening for backyards maybe? But, what do I know Lol 🤷♂️ it’s more of an educated guess/ suggestion as I’m new to this now expensive hobby I got into when I bought my first Gamo air rifle to deal with a horde of rats living under my apartment a few months ago. Now I’m fully addicted and have 2 air rifles and 3 more magnum breakers on the way (2 Hatsan’s and Sig ASP20 whiskey 3 combo all in .22) all break barrels as PCP seems out of my depth even though they look fun. I love this idea of yours and your target is perfect to take on the opening day of squirrel season to check holdover beyond 20yds for accuracy. It’s even versatile/portable enough with the handle to attach rope/nylon cord to hoist over a heavy tree branch to check POA/POI at varying elevated degrees with my range finder for accurate shot placement. I’m by no means handy with homemade projects like that. I definitely have more of a Wall Street business mind, as opposed to improvised self engineering like a lot of people and try to keep things within my limitations. I’m rudimentary with tools, although, I am indeed learning a great deal about the general understanding of how air rifles operate and little tips that make things easier via UA-cam videos from dedicated people like yourself. I even modded my Crosman Prowler trigger by myself with the help of UA-cam and forums. Basically I’m the worst handyman as far as instinct goes, but I’m definitely learning as I go and seeing the value of having the tools to do so even if it’s through trial and error... experience is priceless thank you for taking the time making these videos for guys like me (even though most won’t admit when they have little to no clue and just wing it) to make this hobby more enjoyable ✊
@@shahbhui2417 they can be reused though.. If you wanna dish a few more hundred bucks for pellet molds and such to remelt your lead. Swage presses are better but also much more expensive.. upwards of $800.
What I've done is put Kevlar cloth sandwich layer in between the putty layers.. Nothing goes past it.
Nice! I've done about the same thing, except with 2x4s instead of DuctSeal. (I can slide them in and out, about every 500 rounds of .177, as the wood starts to "thin* to a critical depth in spots.) Frame is a mini-pallet of 20x24"; handles and footers included; painted with colors of my house.
Great idea and improvising! I would use that mat between the duct seal and steel plate to dampen noise if penetrating occurs. But, what do I know Lol 🤷♂️ it’s more of an educated guess/ suggestion as I’m new to this now expensive hobby I got into when I bought my first Gamo air rifle to deal with a horde of rats living under my apartment a few months ago. Now I’m fully addicted and have 2 air rifles and 3 more magnum breakers on the way (2 Hatsan’s and Sig ASP20 whiskey 3 combo all in .22) all break barrels as PCP seems out of my depth even though they look fun. I love this idea of yours and your target is perfect to take on the opening day of squirrel season to check holdover beyond 20yds for accuracy. It’s even versatile/portable enough with the handle to attach rope/nylon cord to hoist over a heavy tree branch to check POA/POI at varying elevated degrees with my range finder for accurate shot placement. I’m by no means handy with homemade projects like that. I definitely have more of a Wall Street business mind, as opposed to improvised self engineering like a lot of people and try to keep things within my limitations. I’m rudimentary with tools, although, I am indeed learning a great deal about the general understanding of how air rifles operate and little tips that make things easier via UA-cam videos from dedicated people like yourself. I even modded my Crosman Prowler trigger by myself with the help of UA-cam and forums. Basically I’m the worst handyman as far as instinct goes, but I’m definitely learning as I go and seeing the value of having the tools to do so even if it’s through trial and error... experience is priceless thank you for taking the time making these videos for guys like me (even though most won’t admit when they have little to no clue and just wing it) to make this hobby more enjoyable ✊
Attractive design. Nicely done.
I am pretty sure it is Gardner Bender brand duct seal in the 1 pound blocks I got but there are other similar brands out there. I got mine in the electrical dept. at Home Depot and it is also available from Amazon. It is pricey but with using the steel plate in the back you can get away with less duct seal.
Any chance you’ve made a DIY video of how exactly you made this amazing target/trap?
Very nice silent pellet trap. I have high powered air rifles and the pellets make some serious noise upon Impact. This seems like it would do the trick to stop the pellets quietly. If you don't mind what brand of duct seal is that and where did you get that from?? I can only find the 1/2 gallon water based fiberglass stuff that is taking forever to setup and cure.
Good Job! Great Vid! Best Info... Ive been looking up all kinds of Videos over the last few days on here trying to come up with ideas on building a Trap/Backstop and out of all of them Im liking this one the best. Rock on!!!
~DrJones~
[01/19/18]
#HPAirguns #PelletTraps #ItsNotAFirearm #DrJones #KyAirGunners #GunSafetyFirst
Do the duct seal keep their properties in winter if stored outside in deep freezing temperature? Duct seal are cheap but when you have to buy like a dozen it begins to be expensive. I thought laying them flat for 1 inch depth would have been enough thickness but after watching your video , they need to be on their side for more thickness.
My other concern is the 2x4 frame.. what happen when you totally miss the target and hit the frame? Does the pellet bounce back dangerously? Or do they penetrate the wood?
Duct seal is used outside for sealing around electrical wires and pipes that goes through exterior walls. It does tend to slowly loose its oils? and flexibility over time from what I see. The thickness used depends on the power of the air rifle and the distance away you place the target. In my opinion if shooting mid power rifles up to say 30 to 35 fpe a single layer lay flat would do fine with the target place over 25 yards away. I have never had a pellet bounce out of the duct seal. I use my box mainly inside for testing so I do not need a large area to shoot and missing the box is not a problem. Outside where a larger target surface can be needed I use rubber mulch and the target is placed further away.
Great video and pellet catcher ! I am a new subscriber .
Hi, great video. Would this setup be sufficient in a champion metal box shot with a Benjamin marauder .25? Can I get away with the duct seal layered flat or stacked liked you did? Thank you
I just added the duct seal to my champion metal box and plan to use welcome mats loosely stapled in front of that stuff so duct seal will hardly get penetrated. That's my plan anyway.
adrewfis in theory that’s a great idea... however long term those welcome mats will get chewed up and you’ll have rubber pieces (or whatever the mats are made from) everywhere if you’re using it as a frequent target. I would use the welcome mat as a layer between the duct seal and steal steel plate to preserve the structural integrity of the steal longer and noise dampening for backyards maybe? But, what do I know Lol 🤷♂️ it’s more of an educated guess/ suggestion as I’m new to this now expensive hobby I got into when I bought my first Gamo air rifle to deal with a horde of rats living under my apartment a few months ago. Now I’m fully addicted and have 2 air rifles and 3 more magnum breakers on the way (2 Hatsan’s and Sig ASP20 whiskey 3 combo all in .22) all break barrels as PCP seems out of my depth even though they look fun. I love this idea of yours and your target is perfect to take on the opening day of squirrel season to check holdover beyond 20yds for accuracy. It’s even versatile/portable enough with the handle to attach rope/nylon cord to hoist over a heavy tree branch to check POA/POI at varying elevated degrees with my range finder for accurate shot placement. I’m by no means handy with homemade projects like that. I definitely have more of a Wall Street business mind, as opposed to improvised self engineering like a lot of people and try to keep things within my limitations. I’m rudimentary with tools, although, I am indeed learning a great deal about the general understanding of how air rifles operate and little tips that make things easier via UA-cam videos from dedicated people like yourself. I even modded my Crosman Prowler trigger by myself with the help of UA-cam and forums. Basically I’m the worst handyman as far as instinct goes, but I’m definitely learning as I go and seeing the value of having the tools to do so even if it’s through trial and error... experience is priceless thank you for taking the time making these videos for guys like me (even though most won’t admit when they have little to no clue and just wing it) to make this hobby more enjoyable ✊
What guitar is in that guitar case?
Awesome job! What are your dimensions? Thanks
Can the pallets be reused ?
Thanks
Sorry but they can't. The pellets will always deform some and the duct seal residue would be hard to remove.
@@gunpowderairpower8155 thanks
@@shahbhui2417 they can be reused though.. If you wanna dish a few more hundred bucks for pellet molds and such to remelt your lead. Swage presses are better but also much more expensive.. upwards of $800.