429 Cobra Jet 1970 Ford Torino - THIS is why Stock Rocks!
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
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Nick is lucky to work with some of the most classic and desirable cars anywhere. This week, the man who rolled this classic 1970 Torino out of the Ford dealer when it was brand new, decided to roll it into Nick's Garage.
What I meant was, do it right, or do not do it at all.
Amen brother
We know what ya mean Old Car Master!
I heard my father and his friends say that 1 million times pounded into me!
Thank you Nick!
We say this to our friends as a joke or light hearted banter. I have had it said to me many times and we laugh it off. Aussie’s are always taking the micky out of each other.
The Man has an Incredible Garage, Great Employees, Loyal Viewers, a Hell Cat Challenger and a U Code Challenger. Most importantly, Nick has a Good Heart. Thank You for all you do Sir.
I agree with all you said here and like to add ...he is blessed
Sounds like if it ain't broke don't fix it
Words to live by.
@@NicksGarage Nick, just do it right and pull the engine and make sure it is built correctly. Then we can see the beautiful 429 sing on your dyno :) Also, maybe if you take the carb spacer off the Edelbrock intake the shaker will line up??? Also, throw that Mallory distributor in the trash. If he wants to run an electronic distributor then just put a Duraspark in it. I have a brand new $60 Cardone Duraspark in my 359 Cleveland with the same MSD 6AL box. Mine dynoed 520hp@6300 450tq@5600. I shift at 6600rpm and it never misses a lick. These distributors in my opinion are more reliable than the Mallory and MSD stuff.
Didn't read all comments sorry I repeated what you said on the other hand practice makes perfect
Original owner? Wow!
I agree, Nick. Keep them factory specs.
Oh, I think it depends on the car/specs. Something like this Torino, sure there's a hell of a lot of value in keeping it as close to original as possible. But that Dart with a slant 6? Probably not so much...
I am the proud second owner, bought brand new by my father a 1970 Ford Torino GT, with the 351c 4bbl and FMX trans,3.00 rear, shaker hood. In my opinion there’s no other muscle car that quite had the looks like this did.
What about the 69 Mercury Cougars? They are quite unique
The factory manifold works really good I flow tested mine on a flow bench it was excellent. My 429 SCJ was making 540 hp
By no means was it stock. Let's be real 🤣
Ford got it right on this one, leave it alone.
EXACTLY !!
Why would any one want to upgrade or update a 70' 429 Cobra? Unless you want to try some Alan Root Aluminum Heads.
Can you say FORD HEMI????
Interested, I could show you probably the baddest 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Fastback known to man, & it's all Ford.
As far as I'm concerned, a Ford Torino is the competition to Chevrolet Chevelle SS-which is my fav-and that is coming from a mopar guy
THAT IS LIKELY THE WRONG YEAR POSTED - 1970. THIS IS PROBABLY A 1971 COBRA JET. THE METALLIC GRABBER GREEN PAINT (THAT SHADE) IS FOR A 1971. ALSO, THE COBRAS FRONT AND BACK ARE FOR A 1971. THE 429 BADGES AT THE FRONT FENDERS IS FOR A 1970 ONLY. THE WAY TO TRULY DETERMINE THE YEAR IS OFF THE V.I,N.
pretty sure the Cobra on the front grill was a '71 feature, not on '70, but not 100 % confidence on that
71 Cobras had the cobra emblem in the grill and blacked out tail panel. But this car is close to 50 years old, anything can be swapped out. Paint is definitely a 71 shade of metallic green or something.
o yes.. Forgot.. When working on a 70-71 Torino, wrap the hood claw with a rag! Your head will Thank You!! :)
Yes it definitely will lol!. I have the scars!
@@KM-302 yup even wearing a baseball cap helps, a little.
grab. We had to do that. Wrap the latch after smashing our heads on it.
As expensive as the cobra grill's are to replace I dont go anywhere near the front of the car.. I only work off the fenders..lol
Absolutely! I had a '68 390GT & I have a small dent in my head from the blasted claw. I wonder why people don't understand that Ford Duraspark ignition from 1976 through 1987 is a CD system that works exceptionally well & is super easy to install in an older car. You can even install it into the existing points type distributor if the bushing is good without affecting the advance timing. Aside from a parts house pick up sensor, coil & control unit, all that is needed is the reluctor wheel, it's shaft & roll pin, & the plate from any V8 Duraspark distributor. The wiring harness between the engine & the box would be helpful, but you can purchase the necessary connector pigtails & use new wire if desired. You simply turn the engone over to where the points are fully open on #1 cylinder & remove the vacuum advance unit, points & condenser, the plate they mount to, the points to coil wire, & the point block shaft from the distributor. The hole where the points wire goes through the housing will need to be modified into a U shaped channel for the pickup sensor wiring by simply cutting frim the top of the housing down the sides to intersect with hole diameter & filing to smooth the slot. Then install the Duraspark reluctor shaft onto the distributor shaft being careful not to bend the mechanical advance springs so the curve will remain the same & install the vacuum advance unit. Next install the magnetic pickup sensor mounting plate into the distributor, the reluctor wheel & roll pin (it doesn't matter which slot in the reluctor wheel you use), & the pick up sensor. If the one of the reluctor wheel blades is not lined up with the exposed "bar" of the pickup sensor, loosen the dist hold down bolt, turn the housing until the two are lined up, & retighten the hold down bolt. Be sure to put the screw through the pickup sensor grounding tab into the housing through the hole in the plate. Wiring is fairly simple. The sensor wires go to the same color wires of the control box. I splice into the black wire & run a redundant ground, but it isn't completely necessary to do so. The green wire from the control box hooks to the coil - terminal. The power wire to the coil + terminal will need to be rewired from the ignition switch directly to supply batt voltage in both start & run (point type systems reduce coil power to around 7V to avoid burning the points). The red wire of the control connects to the ignition switch in run position, while the white wire connects to the start only terminal of the ignition switch. You will find that the ignition supply wiring modifications are the same as what is required when using any other CD ignition system. I have done this in several '60's model Ford V8 engines. The only advantage with aftermarket systems are those that feature a built in rev limiter if one is desired.
I agree 100% with Nick. Keep it simple! The way it came from the factory is the right way. Example: I hate seeing muscle cars (cruising cars) with big wheels with low profile tires... it kills the look of the car.
That era of Ford is my favorite. That one is a beauty. They were amazing straight from factory and should be kept as close to factory original as possible for every reason there is. Great advice for anyone Nick! Great video!
agree 100
'71 Ranchero with that engine. Fun beast!
Beautiful Car! Thank you for touching on the subject that the charging system needs to be beefed up. Seen too many classic cars with updated electrical and the charging system is neglected.
When I was 23 I picked up a 1963 Vette. I rebuilt the engine high performance, TRW pistons, Balanced, Huge Cam, Headers, 9 qt oil pan, 205 heads, Cragar wheels and running a Tunnel Ram out the hood with a dual quad set up....cool huh?...If I left it stock I could have paid off my house with the value of it being stock. If we only knew then what we know now.
But the value in what you learned and the memories of building it to make it your own was priceless. Stock cars are built every day.
Unless someone like me comes around I'd rather have the hotrod when there done right many others like me to although I do appreciate cars like the Ford that are stock
i agree 100 percent follow the k.i.s.s. theory. keep it simple stupid.that ford torino is beautiful.look forward to see the work done to it to bring back the low end power.
Why is because it's "trendy " like cutting a hole in the body to run the exhaust!!! I think it ruins whatever car it is.
Even worse, when they install those hotwheels looking wheels on muscle cars
@@mattgarkus2489 LMAO! I call them circus wheels because they look like wheels on a vehicle that a circus clown would be driving. Lol...
@@mattgarkus2489 God, how I detest the 'modern' and 'trendy' large diameter wheel/thin sidewall tire look. Every time I see those clown wheels/tires on a classic car from the 1950s-1970s, I automatically respond with an expletive.
The masses truly are sheeple. If someone told me back during the long hair days of the 1970s and 1980s that one day it's going to be 'trendy' to completely shave your head, I would've told them "You're crazy!" Yet here we are. Ditto for the tattoos defacing many sheeple's bodies--especially ugly on girls and women.
@@electrix6751 so sheeple for having long hair sheeple for having short to no hair sheeple for tattoos .... dood more than likely the going baaahh yourself
if I had such a car, it would be a time capsule for me... I would want it exactly the way it came from the factory… If I drive it, it should feel exactly as it was back then… If a want a super fast, reliable car, I´d take my modern daily Driver. just my opinion
Nick I am a little older than you but I had the same problem 40 years ago because we had a fleet of 6 cylinder Torino's and yes it was the voltage regulator because it runs throughh the ignition circuit funny how history repeats it self .
I've always said, "Stock Rocks!"
Right on.
@@NicksGarage I'm on the phone with Edlebrock to see if they have a stock O.E.M. replacement for it
@@NicksGarage been on hold for 30 minutes and still waiting
@@NicksGarage after waiting an hour I finally get through
@@NicksGarage Here's a PN# 7166 height is 5.48 Inches
Love the Torino. One of the strange things i had when I had when i still had my Hemi T was a Ford Top loader trans from a Torino "Drag pack". The close ratio bullnose trans. I have no idea how it came to Australia or who i bought it from at a swap meet because i have only ever seen a few Torinos of any description here.
There is NO shame in ditching points ignition system with magnets.
So true !
I tell ya, I love my MSD E-Curve distributor! Has a rev limiter built into it and everything! Love it
That is true. Modern electronic ignition is much more reliable than the old points system.
yup , make 1 big change and you usually have to make 5 more to make the first one work
Its usually when we "improve" things that the trouble starts...
to think my dad bought one back in 76 off his highschool autobody teacher while still in school...1970 ford torino cobra jet with the drag pack auto shaker and was red....my god it was beautiful sadly sat in a field for years and when i became aware he still had it was shortly sold :(
GM one wire alternator will do the same thing if a diode goes bad,,,It will backfeed thru the alternator and fire the ignition....
Saw it once in a Volkswagen Beetle. . . There was a short circuit in the tail light, which kept the ignition live. . .
Yes it will. I've done many conversions with GM's alternators where in a pinch I had to throw a lightbulb on the regulator to get it to charge. Ford's are notorious for horrible and complex alternator wiring
Bent push rods will also cause a high rpm backfire as will a warn timing gear on the cam.
My old Crown Vic kept running one day, turns out a pin backed out that links the lock to the switch. I didn't know it until after I bought a junkyard column, but the parts came in handy years later when I bought a Bronco with a sloppy column shift.
@@Future-Preps35 AKA "Self Exciting"
Good morning Nick from the uk, I have exactly the same switch off problem with my 302 Ford since I fitted a new alternator with an internal regulator... This has given me some ideas 😀
Put it back to external. Works fine.
Converted a 62 Nova from a 4 banger to V8. Added an alternator in place of the generator. When I turned off the ignition switch the instrument panel warning lights would remain on eventually would go out. Solid state regulator. Had to do with polarizing the regulator.
My mom had her fair share of Torino's and Amx's but one of her favorites was her 1968 Ford Fairlane with a factory 428 cobrajet it was also a fastback!
Your mom liked to go fast didn't she.
@@philsmidwestclassiccars150 Yeah, she said when you hammered it you could watch the gas gauge move as fast as the speedometer! She also had a 68 GTX convertible at one point.
Back when I was mechanicing the old mechanic used to drill into me the old KISS systems keep it simple stupid ! Stay safe and well/ Andrew Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia 🇦🇺
I completely agree with you Nick. I want all my cars just as they rolled out of the factory. I know I am not smarter than the engineers that designed the car. Why take a 1969 Camaro body and update everything? At that point all the charm is gone from the car.
That is a beautiful Torino especially in that color.
We need Nick and uncle Tony doing a rant about cars
Uncle Tony's a MAGA douche. He's good with cars but but neandrathal on social issues.
Nice to know. I am heading to his channel and subscribing right now.
I had a Torino like that, with a 351. I knew someone who had one with 429SCJ 4 speed. Given as a gift, he totaled it in a couple weeks. Shame
i knew a guy in 1992 with a super-clean 70 torino gt green, lazer stripes 351C top loader he beat 429s with it no sweat.
My dad had a 69 Talladega back in the mid 70's.
From my own experience these mods come from lack of experience and knowledge along with little to no research. That combined with almost no skill or effort into installation of the mods.
Agreed...obvious to the eye Mr. Shadetree Mechanic had read a couple of magazines full of advertisements and bought parts.
The problem is people don't know that combination is the key. Do the research and make sure the upgrade parts will work with your stock heads/intake.
Rarely do aftermarket parts make things better. Stock worked. Reliable. Point to drive the car not brag that it conceivably has 10000hp.
@@dukeallen432 that depends on what you want from your vehicle. The manufacturers have several goals in mind when designing a new product. They want it to do what it promises and to last past its warranty and they want it to earn them a profit. With this criteria in mind they will find ways to cut costs. That is why a well chosen aftermarket replacement part can be superior to the factory parts. GMC had cam lobe issues for years as well as rocker arm problems. An aftermarket cam and valve gear was the only sensible solution. Ford had issues as well with torsion bars that were inadequate and motor mounts that failed. Here again the only reasonable solution was aftermarket parts because the factory replacement parts were just the same as the originals that failed. Chrysler also had their share of problems that were easily cured with top quality parts from a reputable aftermarket source. In fact many auto manufacturers use aftermarket parts when they have to do recalls.
Good morning Nick & family/friends , from Cleveland Ohio right across Lake Erie!
Good morning, Ohio!
@@NicksGarage I believe fords are more sensitive to cam timing than chevies. Especially small blocks for two reasons. Reason one is sbf have larger lifter contact area than sbc. This can be a huge problem if the cam ramps are to slow on the closing side and the lobe seperation is too tight. the 2nd problem is that too camshaft companies copied what works for sbc will work universally for other engines. Any thoughts from you would be valued.
@@vinceyoung5912 . I agree with you.
216 4 life lol 😂
I once built a street beast 496 BB Chevelle, ran 10.80’s @ 125. No electric fuel pump, no electric water pump, no rack and pinion, battery still in engine compartment, regular stock fan clutch fan, no over heating, OD lock up automatic, drive anywhere, never trailered. It can be done, avoid stupid Ricky racer mismatched combos - modifications need to be done as a total package.
Good morning, Nick and company!
That 429 CJ was similar to the 429 Police Interceptor of the same years. These were very popular with young police officers of that time period!
Yeah, nice place to work, for sure. Thanks.
That Torino is Grabber Green "metallic". Rare color. That color was a special order color if I'm not mistaken.
That looks like Grabber Green for 1971, the 1970 GG was a pastel. Would have to see the door tag to see what's up with that.
Torino reminds me of the Aussie built XA, XB and XC Falcon Coupe :)
Lots of similar lines.. Thanks for watching!
I think the Aussie versions were smaller in size, but the same style!
Basically the same car
Also ,The ultimate street aluminum intake for the 429 SCJ or CJ is the Ford Power Parts Dual plane manifold . Good luck finding that one ! I have a 429 SCJ 4 bolt main with that intake in my stash, under my bench. It came out of a jet boat. One day that motor needs to go back into a Cobra Torino like it came out of....
Nick, you are much too nice in not mentioning the after-market manufacturers. A lot of those guys sell crap bolt-ons that are designed to profit the after-market companies themselves and do absolutely nothing for the end-customer. Then you have the tuning packages. In many cases, those packages play with ignition timing, knock sensitivity and other parameters such as turbo boost and the end result, is motors with reduced reliability and drivability issues and here is the kicker, when the motor goes kaboom, they take no responsibility at all. Owners need to second guess themselves and protect their investments.
Back in the day, if the charge light bulb was burnt out, it would keep the engine from dying when the key was turned off.
429 scj solid lifter motor keep the old cast intake. the cars are great just from Factory
Big cam and single plane manifold = loss of power below 5000 rpm
Cam doesn't sound too big, i would just put a dual plane on.
Patrick. I did not change the cam, I installed the factory cast iron dual plane.
@Grumpy468 . I removed the toquer intake, and installed the cast iron factory dual plane. I left the cam alone.
@Grumpy468 . A much better acceleration.
Thinking same audio must get lost in translation
I look forward to Mondays for Nick's garage video. Reminds me of the old days👍Austin TX
Thanks for joining us, James.
70 429scj torino was my first car o how i miss it. So it’s nice to see. Ps it was a drag pack car as well.
When you keep it original all parts are compatible. In this case Ford built thousands and they all worked properly with all parts working together in harmony.
I agree with the rear disc brake conversion, it's pointless
I'd have rear discs but perhaps not on an original Hemi 'Cuda convertible lol.
If you drive in modern traffic a lot at least one concession I'd make is to have four wheel discs since modern cars stop in a modern kind of way.
I'm a bit of a hard charger though, so if you're a cruiser it is kind of unnecessary.
One good thing about four wheel discs at least is the reliable 'adjustment' as the pads wear. Drums - even when set up really well with the adjustors and springs operating perfectly can't compete for consistent application when compared to discs.
One wheel always locks before the other and this is because of the self energizing effect of the shoes can't ever be as consistent as discs. This even occurs on non self energizing drum brakes.
Years ago when I just finished my mechanics apprenticeship one of the other mechanics ran up the ass of a modern car (for the time 30 years ago) driving home from work one night. Yeah his car was disc/drum like my 318 Dart was. One tends to remember these things.
@@ThePaulv12 there is nothing wrong if you change things on a car to make it safer for your application. but doing it for the sake of doing it and only doing it half way is a waste.
Depends on the vehicle and the application. Pottering around town, or the 1/4 mile where not much heat is put into the brakes, drums might be OK, but driving a car even moderately hard, driving in the mountains with a lot of steep downgrades, or towing, you can't really over-do the braking. many years ago i had an early sixties car with huge, for the day, drum brakes all round (12" diameter, 2 1/2"wide front and 2"rear). It stopped well from 120mph once, sort of slowed it down a second time, but third time from 60, might as well have opened the door and scuffed my feet on the ground... Even using a LOT of engine braking, they'd fade badly going down passes - pretty much all 2nd gear. problem was both fade and the pedal going damn near to the floor, even though it was still hard - the drums expanded so much!
On a rare vehicle, at least it should be done with an eye to keeping it so it is easy to replace the OEM parts - stock and rare is generally where the money is!
100
@@gordowg1wg145 4 drums were not enough even by sixtys standards but it kept the cost down on the production line.
But i myself would look into a big break disc conversion on the front axel and stepping up the wheel size to 16 or 17 inch from the standart 14 and 15 inch.
Amen nick My grandfather's buddies always gave him Compliments on His Chevelle when it never breaks down his secret keep it simple thanks nick for the Great content Much love from Oklahoma
also from Oklahoma...am a Chevelle guy too. Have had them in the past, looking to get another.
IMHO the most beautiful car ever made, wonderful post! Nick
Drum brakes on the front of can work fine.....Sometimes. I'm not all that sold on multiple piston front disk brakes for the same reason. Brake fade is an issue with drums, but brakes on the front not working equal can cause brake unexpected pull as well.
MSD makes a unit that interfaces the factory tach with their ignition box. Don't change the cam; change the crank. The 359 crank is too short for the CJ heads and the weight of the car. They are not effective under 500 cubes unless you have a lot of gear. That cast intake is SCJ, but I don't hear solids, so a CJ engine. Leave that Torker and put a stroker kit under it for low end.
I don't know how the original owner could let someone hack the wiring up like that. The son? Time to disinherit.
All of this makes no difference, as the rumors that Nick is moving into shoe repair have been verified.
Yes,the stock cam is really good!
while we all know nick has a real pro filming and producing him. either way. nick is a consistently great guy we wish we could all kniw and call our friend.
eve n though he doesnt need anything. we want to send him gifts.
i dont anthing cool or uselfull mechaicaly
so id consider hust sending a tims card. lmao.
When he said Spanaway Washington i was like that is were I live. cool i am not the only one watching nick's garage here in Washington.
Some of the best advice I've heard in a long time. Keep things simple and stock for the most part!
All these mod's & aftermarket parts do almost nothing & in the long run in many cases make the car run & drive worse than before you spent all that money. Then when you have a backyard shade tree guy do the installations things can get really screwed up in one heck of a hurry! Keep up the good work Nick & try to convince the Torino owner to trust you and let you bring that car back to it's glory days, if he bought it new, he has more than a little gray hair and will appreciate having his car done the right way.
My son is a mechanic at a dealership, one of his jobs is installing lift kits and wheels on brand new trucks that come in, those truck more often then not are the comes coming back in with transmission and axle issues because people buy them and drive them on the street, and many don’t understand those lifted trucks don’t have the same warranty as regular stock trucks.
All a waste of money and very hard on the entire engineering that went into those trucks from the factory. Some folks should just stick to tattoo parlors with their spare time.
That's funny. I work at a major used car dealer and we have to take the lift kits off of used vehicles. Sometimes it's a real pain to take them off as the upper control arm contacts the shock etc.
If I were to ever alter my Dad's 68 Hemi Road Runner, he would come back from the dead and kick my 61 year old ass! I have kept the car as it was from Doug Griffith Chrysler Plymouth. Joke always was that he paid 4200. for a car that weighs 4200pounds. $1 a pound. NO CAR, LIKE A MOPAR!
A young beemer "driver" had me set up his front to "track settings", 0 toe and 2 degrees camber, wanted 2 degrerss rear camber too - he came back and said it was turning too quick twitchy as hell! The boy can really drive though and wish he had a chance to really test at a circuit - of course it was reset to factory PDQ
camber and toe work together, change one you have to change the other. 2 degrees camber means the wheel is trying to roll away from centre line. must have toe in to compensate. Negative camber requires toe out!
First time in a long time I see purdy Darn quick
Some how those dents on the voltage regulator were done on purpose. It seems the owner knew that knocking the voltage regulator would unstick the points. Just a guess. Something is not right with that car. Is it a real J-code? The Cobra is trimmed red on the Cobra Jet. Stay safe!
I wonder if the voltage regulator is my problem on my '68 Thunderbird. I can turn the car on and off as you regularly would. HOWEVER, I have to disconnect my battery or my fuel gauge continues reading and my alternator gauge shows power being produced.
Edit: When you began talking about people changing things... It's like those who take a Ford or Mopar and start slapping Chevy accessories all over it. Just buy a damn Chevy 😂
I had one of these Torino's, 1970 429CJ with the Drag Pack, 4:30 Detroit Locker nodular iron rear end, bone stock except for Holley water injection to help with detonation from the 11.3:1 compression. Had 2 big problems with it: First, the scumbags who stole the metal cobras off it every chance they could, as well as the metal Cobra Jet scrips on each side of the shaker scoop. Man that pissed me off because they were hard to find and very pricey to replace. Second, you couldn't keep motor mounts in the thing. Hit WOT two or three times and you were replacing a motor mount. It got old, pretty quick. Other than that it was an awesome daily driver; my father and I replaced the 12" clutch once, that was a job. But the stock cam sounded awesome, it had the stock trumpet exhaust tips and if you stood between the pipes at idle it said "rumpity-rumpity-rumpity". Dead sexy! And no BS, I never got beat on the street. Never raced a Hemi Cuda or SS 454, but it ate SS 396 Chevelles, 440 Chryslers, and 390 & 428 Mustangs like it was its job. Great car, sure wish I still had it. 👍
That's a beautiful Torino if I were to mod it I would make sure the mods would be reversible it too nice to mod permanently.....go find one that's not so nice and mod that. Fine stock examples are really dwindling away.
I'm with you on that all the way. Keep it original! I know someone who picked up an old 1966 Chevy Caprice. There's no engine or transmission in it. Another friend advised putting a later 700R4 GM overdrive transmission in it. I say no way. They don't know the gear ratio yet, but being a luxury car that had a 396 V8 in it, the gearing is most likely 2:55 or 2:72 at the lowest. A regular turbo 350 with old school chevy small block should do just fine. Granted, power glide was common back then but the 2 speed automatic takes away engine power. Why mess with something that will work? I foresee A lot of headaches with the 700R4 even though there's no complicated electronics. The car just wasn't made for that and they should keep it simple! Great advice.
Hey Nick, I totally agree with you on people who just modify things just for the sake of modifying it. They have no idea in most cases, they actually don’t know why they are doing it. They just copy others who don’t know what they are doing and then tell everyone it works great to justify the huge amount of money they have wasted. Street cars are not race cars. You have to build an engine or a complete car to suit the purpose you intended to use it. No good building a race car for the street, they are just too unreliable in every way. There are too many automotive UA-cam channels pushing products that are totally unnecessary and super expensive for street cars and the people who don’t know any better are lapping it up, with in many cases, having a negative effect to what they were looking for. Keep up the great work mate. Jason from Australia.
Had one those 429 CJ's in a 1957 Meteor 2dr sedan we had a c6 auto ....it was a stock 429 CJ
and it flew................that was back in the Mid 1970s sad thing is the car got T-boned by a guy running a yellow light really hit it hard ...........that one hurt as I only just finished the build.
I had just put disc brakes on the front with S/W front springs . Your right about jury rigged car builds ........I raced cars at a track all my life back then ..cars I lived 24/7 ..it was a police interceptor engine out of a 1971 Hyw police car that was written off ........same as the CJ.
maybe was karma........
Hi Nick love watching your videos from here in Nova Scotia. I had the same issue with my 68 Camaro I would have to unplug the alternator for the motor to shut off. I also had an msd 6al box on my car it was on for quite some time before this issue started. Come to find out after talking to other friends I had to put a diode in line for the MSD box because power from the alternator was backfeeding powering the MSD box even though the ignition was turned off. It states that in the instructions that if your vehicle does not shut off you have to put the diode in place mine worked fine for a while then out of the blue it started doing exactly what your customers car is doing and installing the diode fixed the problem. Other friends of mine that have run the msd 6al said they had to install a diode right off the bat because there's would not shut off hope this helps
For the past 25+yrs. my daily driver is a 70 Ford Falcon/ Fairlane wagon. 250 inline, 1 barrel, c4. No power options or ac. Hot rod pals have offered doner engines. "Why"? I ask, why I should replace original, no smoke, no knock, gas sipping, easy to work on engine that can hold its own on the highways? Also keep my life, license, and tires on the rear. And I paid 350 bucks for it. (Bought got it paid off) Enjoy your videos!
Nick, we all have muscle cars way back! my best friend had a 100% stock 69 428 CJ Mach 1 Mustang. he bought it used in 1979 with 29,000 on it for $750 ;).
he took it out on the hi-way once and he wind it out just as fast as it would go and he held it. I told him not to do that because it would blow up. well. some 3 or 4 days later he did it again and he blew it up. he put a rod threw the side of the block. we took the engine apart. I was the one that pulled the cam out. when I pulled the cam out only the first 2 journals came out, the rest of the cam stayed in the block. boy he really blew it up good. well he fond another 428 and had it rebuilt, but it was not as fast as the stock engine.
you have a great channel Nick! keep it going.
OVERSIZED cam and huge carb on STOCK engine with highway gears seemed to be pretty common in the 60's and 70's. I am 64 and knew a few people installing a 850 Holley DP on a stock engine and getting nothing but a big BOGGGGGGG or yes a huge cam which kills the low end power with highway gears and lousy breathing heads
Nick , that's why I commented on uncle Tony's 318 build piston throw away and raffle / you may want that piston back after you throw it a mile for a good show!good job on troubleshooting
Jupiter. Soon to be on the dyno.
Hi from Hamilton Ontario.
Love the Torino? What are the cam specs? I have 71 Torino GT 351C-4V. I'm currently building a 429 with a Lunati 268/276 cam. Curious to see the differences. Cheers!
I had a 70 GT but it was only a 302 .
Beautiful Ford Nick
Thanks for the memory, Gary.
That is a very nice ride, I personally owned two a 1970 Ranchero, and 1970 Torino, both with 351C 4v with cannon ball heads. Ford has a thing called PFM, hahaha once was driving/racing my ranchero one day down the highway, ya I know I was young save it for the Track. Moral of the story was it stalled at over 120 3rd gear thought I blew it up. Sheared the distributor drive gear pin. Rotor in distributor would not turn, but car would start and idle just not accelerate so I had to have it towed. (A6 Mallory box with comp 9000 distributor, the counter weight spring broke in the distributor witch locked the distributor and sheared the roll pin. Wish I still had that ranchero, sold my Torino to my sister and husband. Sad story ranchero hot t-boned in still have the original back window in my garage with all the stickers on it Hurst, Edelbrock, Mallory, erson cams, only 351 I have ever seen turn 8k rpm all day long. current owner of a 65 Impala SS that my Dad and I built.
One can always tell the age of a vintage muscle car driver. The wheel size....and now we can all see the puny original brakes, and it rides like crap.
In 1968 I bought a Nova for 2285$ 2 years later my boss bought 2 of Torinos' for 4400 each. in 1972 we both sold our vehicles. I got 1200 cash for my 4 year old Nova. he got 1000 each for the Torinos'. which is the better investment. Oh buy the way the nova had 68k miles on it and both Torinos' had less mileage. half the age. There are many reasons I have never owned a Ford and likely will never. my car now is a 2012 Camry LE. I enjoy your garage videos. anyone remember the Ford cardboard door inserts that made the doors rust out. nice looking paint on this car.
HeyNic, remember the old Allan Analizers with a scope. I used one yeras ago on a stock car and it worked. You never see them around. Do you use one?
Robert. Long time ago.
I agree with Everything 💯 you said...that cam doesn't sound too radical to me...l don't know what cam & exhaust manifolds came factory for Cobra Jet...but l think Holman Moody ran dual points...l know they're more maintenance than electronic but the distributor is up front & center (what's the problem?)...also (unless you have a caterpillar bulldozer battery) I'd want my battery back up front close to the starter & alternator...& I would have never guessed that voltage regulator
The styling is not obsolete,does not look like a 50 year old car,Sharpe!
I have been looking at a few classics, and would want to upgrade them to front discs, to make them safer on the roads with all these ABS cars in front of me,... but I also thought that upgrading classic car lights would be a good idea? I would like to get some feedback from you on upgrading Classic car lights? *Not to multi-colored LEDS!... just to something that improves visibility in poor driving conditions.
The MSD box caused it. Been there,done that !!
Most 429 cj's i have seen have a spread bore stock intake manifold. And you are correct as always Nick a single plane intake on that heavy sled of a car wont make torque or horsepower down low. Needs a single plane aluminum intake a better roller cam roller rockers and aluminum heads rpm performers work good. And if you arent going over 6,000 rpm stick wifh cast iron exhaust with a nice 2.5in dual exhaust. Also use a stock ford hei set up out a mid 70's truck with a 429/460 way better than mallory junk.
A good sentiment: do it right or don't do it at all. Put in a big cam and single plane intake? Well, plan on ported heads, headers, and then probably a bigger carb too at least and then all that little stuff (give up your power brakes, etc...
don't forget a higher stall converter and lower rear axle ratio.
I had a 1970 429SCJ With the drag racing option. Yellow/Black.. Nice car, it was super quick but had a bad habit of catching on fire.. I trading it for part payment on a house.
I have a 71 torino 500....i pulled the 302 and installed a Cleveland
Holy crap! My 65 Tbird has that same shut off problem. Once in awhile it just won't turn off! I've had to pull the coil wire and get zapped a few times. Voltage regulators are always a big problem in my old Fords. Thanks for the info!
the run on problem and solution is in the MSD install manual tach problems with MSD is in there too
@nicksgarage Voltage Regulators can really screw things up. Mine went on my 70' Challenger T/A last Fall...Slowly but surely it began to cause strange electrical issues with the ignition, lights, gauges...etc. It took months to figure out and countless forum posts trying to trouble shoot the issues. By the time it was eventually figured out, that faulty regulator completely cooked critical parts of the car's wiring harness and forced me to replace everything from the dash forward.
Yay, Number One! Hi Nick, loving you videos. Thanks to you and George and the rest of your staff for taking the time to post. Look after yourselves chaps.👍
Thanks so much!
Car looks great on the outside. The rest of it? Nah. For heaven sakes. Something like this Torino? Leave it be. Unless you are building it to race and KNOW what you're doing? Be happy with what it is. Instead of spending your money on junk that doesn't work well with each other, spend your money on things that show. Nick is right on with everything he says. The car is looking it's age on the inside. Spend the buck and get the seats right and the door panels corrected (missing the driver's). Freshen up that tired, ratty looking center console. And those in-dash gauges? Really? Looks like a high schooler installed them.
Then, I probably shouldn't put this LS3 in my Mini Cooper? heh heh, good advice as always
Truely a man after my own heart. KISS (Keep it Simple Sam). Rule #1 in used car shopping, never buy if it's been dinked up by some shadetree.
You said it right Nick !!! Don't borrow trouble !!!
I am working on a 1970 cyclone with a 429 super cobra jet with almost the same problem it 17000 miles on it since it was rebuilt what found was when he had the engine rebuilt by a friend of his and when I opened up the engine first thing I found is it had low compression pistons in it because he thought the original 11.3 .1 factory forged pistons would be to much so he had the guy put some truck pistons in it. Then he cad a big cam put in it and it had no bottom end and it would cut out at higher rpm so I checked the valve springs they were stock and they were wore out and thats why it was cutting out.
I did a comment about this engine and it was deleted instantly. I drag raced a 70 Torino Cobra with a 429 scj back in the early 70's. I know this engine inside out. My Torino weighed 3884 lbs. Push rods pat number is DOOZ 6565B. Lol. I am near 70 years old now.
Human Nature: Can't leave well(enough) alone. 🙄🤣
1970-1972 Torino, my favorite "A-Body" from Ford. 👌🏻😁👍🏻
Looking forward to see the UTG motor on the dyno. My two favorite youtube channels.
I agree, Nicks Garage is my favorite channel also.
i kept my 68 mustang cobra all factory with the dual 4 barrels but my 73 ss nova i pulled the sb and put a 396 bb built in it now i'm building a 68 chevy pu with a stroked 454 in it
I love the old 429, Years ago I put one in my 1975 Ford F250 pickup out of a 1970 T bird. I had a lot of trouble getting it to run on pump Gas. The motor has a eleven to one compression and in 1970 100 octane fuel was available at any gas station but when every thing went to unleaded 91 was all we could get. I found a old Ford tech and he told me to remove the heads and shave the sharp edge off the squish band at the edge of the combustion chamber and it would help because the sharp edge gets hot and causes preignition. I did and it helped a lot as long as I could get 95 octane fuel leaded fuel but when California outlawed that I found a guy with a Distributor machine and was able to recurve the timing and played with initial lead timing and finally got her to run good. I installed headers kept the stock intake but put a AFB carb and that truck would do 0 to 60 in 3.5 seconds. I drove that Ford truck for years and loved every minute of it. The truck originally came with a 390 and in 1975 was the start of the smog engines and it couldn't get out of its own way.
Ford should bring back a 4 door muscle car that's the only reason I don't buy a Ford I love the mustang but it sucks when I can't pack my buddies and go cruise or have extra curricular activities in the back with the ladies:)
Nick! I Love it! Nothing like Simplicity! You make seance ! But some people just have to Play and learn the hard way! your Awesome!
The ignition switch runs to the voltage regulator because for some reason Ford only wanted the car to charge with the key in the ON position. One engineer told me that was so if someone stole the car that the battery would run down, I don't know. But on those old contact voltage regulators if it freezes closed, or from the dents perhaps hit it with a hammer to make it charge, the positive circuit stays connected to the ignition. As for the engine, sounds like whoever did the engine didn't have an understanding if how the parts all need to match up to achieve the desired response. FYI, there are a couple of dual plane intakes that will fit perfectly under that hood, I'm sure you'll find one. One trick is to machine out the separation wall in the pentium. It will really help the power band and improve the lower end torque.