How to Flush Brake Fluid Using a Pressure Bleeder
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- How to flush your vehicle’s brake fluid using a pressure bleeder. I am working with a 2007 Volvo C30. There is usually specific maintenance intervals for brake fluid and this information can be found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. Replacements maybe required 30,000km/20,000 miles or every 2 years or 160,000km/100,000 miles or every 10 years. Brake is hygroscopic, meaning it’s able to absorb moisture along with breaking down from heat, jeopardize braking performance or causing premature failures on components. #Schwaben #ecstuning #brakes
Schwaben 3-Liter Multi-Functional Filler System: bit.ly/2KQSEdW
Assembled By ECS Tuning Brake Service Kits: bit.ly/2KTupvV
ECS Tuning Home Page: bit.ly/2xc8Y7c
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wrenches
-about 10 inches of clear rubber hose
-clean rags
-brake fluid
-pressure bleeder
-vacuum pump or turkey baster
-jack
-jack stand
-wheel wrench
Procedure:
-locate the master cylinder reservoir
-wipe around the reservoir cap
-determine what type of brake fluid your vehicle takes and the capacity by referring to your owner’s manual
-you will need about 0.5L more of fluid in order to complete the flush
-the kit comes with both a European specific cap and a generic cap to be used on any vehicle
-select the cap best suited for your vehicle and install
-a turkey baster or vacuum pump can be used to remove a majority of the old fluid in the reservoir, however some of these reservoirs can have an irregular design or include baffles making this difficult
-so we can skip this method and it will require slightly more fluid removal at the first bleeder unit we start seeing clean fluid
-screw the feeder line onto the tank and then snap the quick disconnect into place
-pump the system up to about 15psi and monitor the gauge for a pressure drop
-once you have verified there is no leaks, release the pressure by pressing the pressure relief valve and disconnect the line
-remove the pressure relief cap to fill the tank
-the tank should have enough fluid so it doesn’t run empty and risk the chance of introducing air into the system
-reinstall that cap and reconnect the feeder line
-pump the system up to about 15psi and verify there is no pressure leask
-pressure requirements may vary between vehicles, if you exceed a manufacturer’s pressure limit this may damage internal seals within the braking system
-some vehicles also have different bleed procedures, such as bleeding the closest wheel to the master cylinder, while others require bleeding the furthest wheel first that tends to be the most common
-for this vehicle I am starting with the furthest wheel first
-jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel, and install a jack stand
-locate the bleeder screw, remove the cap and wipe away any dirt
-install the correct sized wrench and then a clear rubber line going to a catch container
-loosen the bleeder and allow the fluid to drain until clean fluid is present in the line, then tighten
-roughly 40% of the system’s fluid will come from this location
-clean the bleeder of any residue, reinstall the rubber dust cap, and then reinstall the wheel
-move onto the next furtherest wheel, this time being the driver’s rear
-using the exact same procedure, drain the fluid into a container
-roughly 30% of the fluid would have been removed from the total system’s capacity
-monitor the pressure bleeder so the pressure doesn’t drop below 10psi
-moving onto the front passenger side wheel, again using the same procedure
-and finally the last wheel being the front driver’s side
-you should be left with some fluid in the tank which is perfectly normal and needed as a safety
-release the pressure in the pressure bleeder, than close the valve and disconnect the line
-ensure the fluid level in the reservoir is correct
-inspect the reservoir cap seal for any damage, replace accordingly, then reinstall the cap
-start the vehicle and make sure the brake pedal is firm
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
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This is undoubtably the best, clearest mechanic video I have ever watched on Ytube.
Thank you so much!
Yes, absolutely clearest video I've seen so far. Thanks.
Thank you!
That was an excellent instructional video, very informative and very well presented. Thank you.
Thank you and happy to help :)
Those tips are fantastic throughout the whole video! Thanks, I learned so much :D
Thank you, I really appreciate it :)
Thank you for this very professional cut-to-the-chase information. I was annoyed by other content that failed to explain the function and operation of the bleeding/flushing method.
You really provide the information that I can use for judging if such a tank is suitable for my intended use on my vehicle.
Glad it was helpful and thank you for the feedback!
Oh man this was great! Very informative.
Thank you!
I have been using this method for a couple of years. I have an older version of the tool you used from ECS.
Thank you for the feedback!
Well presented. Thanks
I like this video. It is really informative. Thanks a lot
Excellent to hear and thank you :)
Very well done, great job!
Thank you!
Yes great presentation.
Thank you so much!
Best ever. Thanks
Thank you!
Great video. One question, please.
After performing the service, and having leftover new brake fluid in the pressure tank, could I pour it back in my new brake fluid container?
Or no. Would the brake fluid in the pressure tank be aerated? Thus, one having to dispose it.
This is the best video i have watched for the process. A question has arised, where coukd someone find how much psi need to be pumped? You mention 15, but since this info is not written anywhere, would this value be safe for all cars?
thankyou the nice and clear information.
Thank you!
There's an O-ring on the underside of the pump handle,I found it best to lube the O-ring. I had a replacement on a different model,and lubed the O-ring to save it from getting damaged
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
t looks like this would work without putting any brake fluid in the
pressurized tank. Probably just air pressure would do the same thing as long
as you start the bleed with the master cylinder reservoir full when
starting each wheel.
Agreed. A simple 15 psi regulator and a quick disconnect screwed into a OEM cap. No cleanup of bottle afterwards.
Another great video. The pump makes it much easier than using a vacuum pump to pull the brake fluid out of the system like I've been doing.
Thank you, I really appreciate it! Out of all the different ways of bleed or flushing a system, it's by far my most favourite way.
Do you have to run the engine whilst doing that bleeding?? To make sure there is no air bubles in Abs pump etc.??? Watched so many videos and nobody is mentioning that. Thx
Amazing video
Thank you!
Very nice video. I bought the unit. Question: When you released the pressure to fill the bottle, did you have the valve open or closed on the master cylinder cap when releasing the pressure? Looks like it was open but closed when you started to pump. Thanks
Very, very Nice!!!
Thank you very much!
I bought a new Motive bleeder kit along with motive adapter that is advertised as compatible with Hyundai / Kia. I had mixed results. I just read the quick instructions on the box. ( No long detailed instructions paper included - you are supposed to print them from the Motive website & the FAQ's ) I skipped the dry test, where you connect the system, no fluid, & hold 13-15 psi pressure for ten minutes. and poured brake fluid into the Motive pump. I pumped and around 11 psi the adapter leaked fluid on my engine. NASTY. Of course, i picked the wrong size rubber o-ring adapter ( its not a spare they are different sizes). I cleaned up. I then unscrewed the adapter, cleaned it , and screwed it back on, albeit tighter. Now the system holds pressure fine. Proceeded to bleed my brakes. Good. However, when I attempted to remove the motive adapter, it wouldn't turn. Tried & tried. Read on internet to double-check counterclockwise to remove . Waited for next day, my 250 lbs couldn't unscrew the adapter. Now im driving with the adapter still on but corked and encased in duct tape. Frustrating. I emailed Motive Support & they responded there is no procedure to remove an over tightened & wrong size rubber o ring. They pointed me to slip joint / Channel lock pliers .
Is it necessary to purge the air from the line going from the pressure bleeder to the master cylinder before starting the bleeding process at the wheels?
No need to, there will always be an air space in the reservoir so it's not overfilled.
Will water cleaning the pressure bleeder after the procedure be enough ?
I used the universal cap and made sure it was secured properly. Went forward with pumping it up to proper psi and it released and got brake fluid all over my engine bay and the ground....did I do something wrong??
Do you mean the one with the chain? Make sure the opening is clean, free of any damage which would cause leakage, it's tight and it's center with the reservoir opening. Make sure you wash the brake fluid from the engine bay too, depending on the type, some can cause more damage.
@@4DIYers yes, the one with the chain.
Thank you for your response! Resolved the issue and hopefully washed away most of the spilled brake fluid. 🙏
when using this, dont you have to remove the old fluid from the brake resevoir and fill it up with new fluid first?
No, it will push all the old fluid out of the system.
Great job with this posting! I'm looking for the link related to brake fluid boiling point as a function of moisture content, it was referenced in the video ...
Thank you. Here's a link for reading up more on the moisture content vs boiling points epicbleedsolutions.com/blogs/faq/what-is-meant-by-wet-and-dry-boiling-points-of-brake-fluid
Thats a handy tool!
I have a tool that you place on the bleed niple and it sucks the old fluids out of the lines into a container, it works the opposite to the one in your video.
Dont over tighten the bleed screw too tight, on some (older) cars they are very crappy. Ask me how i know...
Keep up the good work 👍
Excellent tip and thank you :)
What about the older vehicles with the dual master cylinder's large metal cap?
Cam i use this bleeder wirh a 1979 f150, i have the coomon "metal" cap on brake master cylinder with dual fluid reservoirs.
Yes you should be able to.
Nice man. Thank you!!!!!
Happy to help :)
Great video. But the bleeding screws were overtightened, in my opinion.
Can or should this be used on clutch fluid systems?
That bleeder equipment will remove air in the ABS module?
Yes it will, you may need to turn the key on or have a bi-directional code reader to activate the module though. It depends on the vehicle.
The schwaben bleeder isn’t perfect out of the box. You may want to re-crimp the installed ear clamp or just replace it with a banjo clamp, it’s a fail point for air introduction
Hi @4DIYers, one question, was not used an obd scanner to control the solenoid valves of ABS? Thanks
Depends on the vehicle, sometimes you can get away with just turning the key on. Not all OBD scanners can activate the ABS system too.
Bro i need this products plz help me bro 🥰🥰
Pours brake fluid with out a funnel, I also like to live dangerously
Lol, danger is my middle name :P
Is there any good way to clean out this bleeder?
A small pick, wire brush, and brake cleaner. Make sure you're wearing safety glasses.
@@4DIYers I mean the reservoir: it doesn't seem like there's any way to totally clean all the residual brake fluid out when you're finished.
Great video! What's other uses of this tool? I'll be hesitate to buy it if I'm only going to use it every five years or so.
Thank you :) You can use it to bleed brakes, fill transmission oil, differential oil, transfer case oil, and any other confined hard to reach areas for fluid replacement. It has various nozzles for those tight fill points and threaded attachments. BMW is a bit of a nightmare when replacing the oil in the transmission, their fill point is in the center of the pan and that fluid level, if I remember right needs to be checked while the vehicle is running on level ground. The fluid level should be at the top of the fill hole.
@@4DIYers hi do u need to clean the bleeder if u plan to use it for trans,brakes and diff oil or u can mix the fluid
i plan to do those 3 in one day so i'm wondering how to clean the bleeder to not mix the oil if its possible to do like that
What kind of power tool "drill" is that?? How did you get the attachment for it? nice.
It's an impact wrench, here's my review on it ua-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=bLI1dW_Rj1M
Thank you good sir.
wrong link. I found it in your videos though. Thanks.
it works with ABS ?
Yes it does. You may or may not need to activate the abs through the key or a code reader, it depends on the vehicle.
how much fluid was changed?
It will depend on the vehicle and the total amount of fluid should be outlined in your owner's manual.
Watched video, very informative. Bummed to see its not for Chevy vehicles!! Wth! Mostly European. So much for that..😢
Thank you. This can be applied to Chevy vehicles as well.
@@4DIYers Yesss! Appreciate the info. 👍
这种叫什么壶？
What was that blue thing under the jack please?
About 1/2" thick plastic.
Dose this work on a 67 camaro?
Yes it will.
t looks like this would work without putting any brake fluid in the
pressurized tank. Probably just air pressure would do the same thing as long
as you start the bleed with the master cylinder reservoir full when
starting each wheel.
Bro i need this products plz help me bro 🥰🥰