This is the start of my big turbo 2.5 build. This video is for R&D purposes to try and push the limits of the stock 2.5 bottom . Turbo being used is a 3071R.
I have a question for you so I just got done with the 2.5 build and for some reason I can’t hit Peak boost I only hit around 10 to 11 sometimes what would you think that is?
Do you know the capability of the 2.5 yourself? As in have you had first hand experience with it? The 2.5 has handled around 430ish in other vehicles all stock . The 2.3 disi at 400 is being pushed to its limits also. Of course you can also forge the 2.5 completely to handle more just like the 2.3. In my other videos I explained a bit more. This car is on a big 3071r which it has handled 22 psi without a problem. You can easily upgrade rods and still be way cheaper than a used 2.3. Remember, not everyone wants to runs crazy hp on their speeds.
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545 as a Mazda tech of 23 years, I've had quite a bit of experience with all MZR series engines. The 2.5 has a larger bore size, making it more prone to LSPI. The 2.5 has smaller, shrinkage fitted as opposed to fully floating piston wrist pins, meaning a weaker bottom end. The 2.5 also has smaller big ends and a cast iron crank making the bottom end, once again, weaker. The 2.5 also has a longer stroke, increasing leverage on the rods making it weaker than the 2.3 L3-VDT. Also, the timing chain used on the 2.5 is not suited to DI application and the higher particulate matter in the oil, it was also never designed to drive a HPFP - There is a reason why the L3-VDT used a roller timing chain. The L3-VDT also used an upgraded VCT actuator due to the load of the HPFP. The L3-VDT also had a precision gravity sand cast block using higher grade aluminum that is actually a different part number to the LF, L3 or L5 engines. About the only thing the L5 has going for it is the fact it's plentiful and therefore cheap. But make no mistake, it was never intended to be a performance engine. 450BHP out of a stock L5 considering it's standard cast (as opposed to hypereutectic) pistons and fracture split cast rods is a ticking time bomb - It really is that simple when you consider the numerous differences between the engines and their intended purposes. When I built a forged engine for my MPS, I researched the L5/DISI head combo, and even with forged pistons/rods the facts state it's a weaker platform than the L3-VDT with forged pistons/rods. Therefore I bought a second hand L3-VDT and based my build on that. The difference was the L3-VDT cost me ~$4000.00 vs $700.00 for an L5 as second hand engines - But the L3-VDT was undoubtedly the better basis for a performance engine.
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545 Don't waste ur time bro to prove something to people who don't want to listen! They either want to show off how smarter/experienced/knowledgeable they are than you or they already spent $5-8k on builded motor and don't wanna look dumb,so they keep finding reasons you wrong)
Do you have a video of how to get the engine out/in the car? Do you drop it or lift it out? I got to do this on Mazda CX7 2.3L Turbo.
I have a question for you so I just got done with the 2.5 build and for some reason I can’t hit Peak boost I only hit around 10 to 11 sometimes what would you think that is?
What 2.5 is better the duratec or the mzr. I'm going to be using all oem block internals with the Mazdaspeed head.
.
I want to see what happens, i did the same thing in my car. 2.5 swap!
I've done a couple of days now of hard pulls and it's still going strong.
Really interesting build bud, we don't seem to get that specific 2.5 engine here in the uk. Keep up good work bud
ik it's late but it's not factory , he swapped it for a 2.5 and turbod it
Hey do you know how this 2.5 is doing with the 3071? I’m 2.5 swapping my speed soon and I was thinking of putting on a bnrs3 or something else on.
Any updates on your Mazdaspeeds
Every swap has held so far. I sold the turbo set up on this one. I have a few projects and swaps going on. Going to start posting videos again.
That looks like a gtx3076r
Hey man, how are these engines holding up for you? I’m thinking about doing this and wanted to hear something from you about long term.
Still going strong. The first one I put together 3+ yrs ago is still running great. I sold that car a while back.
Curious on what head bolts do you use? ARP or felpro stockish or original. Also what head gasket?
I used oem 2.5 headgasket and oem headbolts from the ecoboost mustang
How is everything holding up?
Everything is still holding on all swaps . Sold few things and will be posting soon
Is a tune required with the 2.5 swap??
Not if you're staying stock
You know the 2.5 is weaker than the 2.3 L3-VDT? The L5 2.5 was Mazda's econobox motor.
Do you know the capability of the 2.5 yourself? As in have you had first hand experience with it? The 2.5 has handled around 430ish in other vehicles all stock . The 2.3 disi at 400 is being pushed to its limits also. Of course you can also forge the 2.5 completely to handle more just like the 2.3. In my other videos I explained a bit more. This car is on a big 3071r which it has handled 22 psi without a problem. You can easily upgrade rods and still be way cheaper than a used 2.3. Remember, not everyone wants to runs crazy hp on their speeds.
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545 as a Mazda tech of 23 years, I've had quite a bit of experience with all MZR series engines. The 2.5 has a larger bore size, making it more prone to LSPI. The 2.5 has smaller, shrinkage fitted as opposed to fully floating piston wrist pins, meaning a weaker bottom end. The 2.5 also has smaller big ends and a cast iron crank making the bottom end, once again, weaker. The 2.5 also has a longer stroke, increasing leverage on the rods making it weaker than the 2.3 L3-VDT. Also, the timing chain used on the 2.5 is not suited to DI application and the higher particulate matter in the oil, it was also never designed to drive a HPFP - There is a reason why the L3-VDT used a roller timing chain. The L3-VDT also used an upgraded VCT actuator due to the load of the HPFP. The L3-VDT also had a precision gravity sand cast block using higher grade aluminum that is actually a different part number to the LF, L3 or L5 engines.
About the only thing the L5 has going for it is the fact it's plentiful and therefore cheap. But make no mistake, it was never intended to be a performance engine. 450BHP out of a stock L5 considering it's standard cast (as opposed to hypereutectic) pistons and fracture split cast rods is a ticking time bomb - It really is that simple when you consider the numerous differences between the engines and their intended purposes.
When I built a forged engine for my MPS, I researched the L5/DISI head combo, and even with forged pistons/rods the facts state it's a weaker platform than the L3-VDT with forged pistons/rods. Therefore I bought a second hand L3-VDT and based my build on that. The difference was the L3-VDT cost me ~$4000.00 vs $700.00 for an L5 as second hand engines - But the L3-VDT was undoubtedly the better basis for a performance engine.
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545
Don't waste ur time bro to prove something to people who don't want to listen! They either want to show off how smarter/experienced/knowledgeable they are than you or they already spent $5-8k on builded motor and don't wanna look dumb,so they keep finding reasons you wrong)
@@driver31111 exactly my thoughts man.
Did you use a 2.5 head gasket or 2.3?
I used the 2.5. Ford oem 2.5 gaskets with great and are a great price
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545 What about your oil feed and return lines?
Any updates so far? How is your block and big turbo doing?
I have a bunch of videos I haven't uploaded yet but it's still doing great. Still pushing around 22lbs consistently.
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545 Awesome! Can't wait to see it! What is your power range and goal in the future?
@@carsandbeatzofficial7545 Bro ended up just saying fuck it lol...