Yea, and also he used (2) red phase instead of black & red, but there is always gonna be critics, especially if this is your field of work (profession) but his work was correct and clean! He gets an 8.5/ 9 out of 10! Good job guy!
#6 copper THWN is sufficient for 60 amps and a #10 AWG copper equipment grounding conductor is an industry standard ground for a 60-amp load. That open KO seal should also be closed up.
at 9:20 or so, you should not use an impact driver for screws (that are probably going into plastic), really easy to strip. use a drill with the torque set down to like '10' out of 20 (20=drill) if you need power driver, hand screwdriver works well too, and much easier to not over torque. Code here in Minnesota is now requiring GFI breakers even for 240 v circuits like my welder and soon to be installed Tesla wall charger.
@@iv29176. It’s in the manual. Minimum 6 awg. The directions are for a 60 amp hook up. I believe 6 awg 90c is rated for 75. Everything is going to need to function at 80% of rated. I’m not an electrician and this comment is purely for entertainment.
Nice, simple installation, similar to mine. However, I'm surprised he used steel pipe straps. Hopefully they're galvanized. Check them, because they may rust. You may consider replacing them with non-metallic (grey) straps, should you run into a rust problem. Thanks for sharing.
The electrician i hired did mine for $800 that included the 50 amp rated wire and the 40 amp breaker. He put a range outlet so i can plug the mobil charger. My tesla is in a garage.. so i dont need the wall charger. he also told me that he did about 400 charger installs in his life so far… not bad.. the demand is rising…. Because i only have a model 3 rwd which can only be charged at 32 amp. i don't think i would ever need a 60 amp breaker with 60 amp rated wire,,, for me 32 amp is more than enough to charge a model 3 rwd.. (actually any tesla). Maybe someday if i have extra money i would try a gen3 wall charger, if i can find one used.. but for now the mobile charger does the trick on my m3 rwd…
60/50AMP rated wire is a 6 gauge copper wire and you would use a 50AMP breaker or 60 amp breaker depending on the setup. You should ask your electrician what gauge copper wire he used on your setup.
I am asking this with a sense of urgency - you said: "He put a range outlet so i can plug the mobil charger." I REALLY, REALLY hope your outlet was NOT a standard outlet such as this $15 type of Leviton outlet: Leviton 50 amps 125/250 V Duplex Black Outlet 14-50R 1 pk, Shop all Leviton, Item # 3708567 | Mfr # R10-00279-S00??? If so, IMMEDIATELY unplug your charger from the outlet, call a different electrician and get, at a minimum, the following: Hubbell Lighting 125V 50A 3-Pole 4-Wire Receptacle - HBL9450A. THIS IS IMPORTANT!! The 'range' outlet you mentioned will fail big time if it hasn't already. And by fail, I mean catch on fire. It is not meant for the continuous load a charger uses.
Best Tutorial! I used this guide to install my Gen 3 DIY outdoor. The mini 15s/20s breakers was the best idea since I didn’t have space for 60A. Great job
Quick clean install, but going to echo another comment about torquing the terminal screws in the wire box and breaker. They need to be torqued to 50 lbf . in (pound-force inch) as per manual. Loose wires at terminals will create arc, arcs create electrical fire. Stay safe out there!
Need to use a torque screwdriver on both the breaker and the charger base terminals. No matter how experienced a sparky you think you are, 80% of electricians don't torque their terminals right, which is a problem down the line.
@@filibertosalinas6816 Incorrectly torqued terminals can cause the connection to arc and spark, starting a fire; or it can make the components work harder than they should, which leads to overall component degradation.
If you have under torqued terminals, that leads to increased resistance and increased heat stress, which is what causes fires. So yeah, it’s important. Also it’s a code requirement; 110.14(D)
Is a problem but probably won’t affect the consumer… similar to putting tires on your car with a torque wrench… tight enough is usually good… “MOST” of the time
You should include the setup, which is a bit confusing because you join the device to your WiFi network, but still configure it by power cycling and connecting to it as a WiFi hotspot.
Yep, I’m an electrician and I never land the line side first, ever. I never feel comfortable. Plus on union jobs, you can get fired for that, not practicing lock out tag out
Yeah man, great video. I was worried about installing this at first, but I'm glad it's a lot more simple than I thought. But what I really don't understand, is why you can put a 48 amp load on a 60 amp breaker, but you can only put a 32 amp load on a 50 amp breaker. Shouldn't you be able to charge at 38 amps with a 50 amp breaker? I know if you get too close to the overload threshold current of a breaker, it overheats the element of the disconnect mechanism, and can damage it, making it impossible to turn back on once it turns off, and worst case scenario it can make enough heat to cause some polymer in the fuse box to catch fire. What I don't understand is why you can get within 12 amps of the 60 amp threshold, but you can get within only 18 amps of the threshold of a 50 amp breaker. I'm thinking the element for the diffusing mechanism in the 60 amp is a little more resistant to heat then the element in a 50 amp breaker, which actually allows you to safely get closer to the maximum load of the 60 amp breaker.
I swear not even an actual electrician can do electrical work without getting criticized. There’s still people in the world that wants to pay you’ll to do this work. It’s fine😂
Me feeling like, "this is easy, if he can do it so can I" Later on the new "house blew up with random guy tried to build a charging station in his house and fucked up" lol
Noticed the grounding wire from the charger was hooked up to the neutral wire at the breakerbox. Is that ok, or should it have been hooked up to the grounding terminal block?
You don’t need a ground wire the same size as the circuit conductors. That’s big time overkill. NEC table 250.122 allows #10 wire for the ground on a 60a circuit. He went 2 sizes bigger and there is 0 benefit to that. Just more expensive.
@@nolanandert4258 I know, right. They’re out in force on UA-cam like they are the authority on this work. IMO, you want to DIY your own electric vehicle charger, fine. But don’t post videos acting like you actually know what you’re doing.
Standard installation today for heavy electric equipment at home: Stove, Washing machine, electric drier, and charging for EV comes with: 1 ground, and 2 hots for USA standard. I believe the hots are always 120v x2. For Sweden where I lived before, its automatically a 220/240 outlet and its 1 hot red which is 240v.
Your electrician should have installed PVC expansion coupling or couplings. Also it looks like his ground wire was unnecessarily oversized. It looks like he used a full size gram of number six, but the code only requires a number 10 which would have saved money on the additionally by the 2020 code is now required to have a GFCI protection to pole breaker at the end of this VO, he mentions putting quad breakers or twin breakers in to make space in the panel. He should’ve mentioned that those twin breakers are many times not permitted to be installed in certain panels. Always follow the UL list at manufactures instructions further note if you didn’t have the breaker panel outside as close as he did, you would also need an outdoor service disconnect within sight of the charger or not more than 50 feet
Why do people including this electrician lands their line side wires first , a great rule of thumb for safety is always land your load side wires first then the line side last , just in case someone accidentally turns on the breaker while you’re landing the wires to the actual wall charger. It’s just like in firearms “Always assume your gun is always loaded “ in electricity “Always assume your wires are always live.” ✌🏽
@@R0B0T2k I'm getting conflicting information from everywhere. I was getting 6/2 sleeved to run mine but some people are saying you need a neutral. I don't see anywhere, including in the Tesla manual that you need a neutral. All manuals show 2 hot, 1 ground. I'm connecting directly to my main panel with a 60A breaker.
I would recommend TTHN #4 and you can use a #6 or #8 ground in 3/4" conduit. This will allow you around 76A of capacity if you want to add another wall connector and share the load, that's 38a each. The cost difference for me was about $.50 per foot on the #4 wire TTHN vs. staying w/ TTHN #6.
He hired a pro that knew NEC section 625.40 states,. "Each outlet installed for the purpose of charging electric vehicles shall be supplied by an individual branch circuit eat circuit shall have no other outlets."
I missed this one: 2020 NEC table 310.16 does rate thhn in the 90 degree column..... #6 @ 75 amps. However, section 110.14 TERMINAL CONNECTIONS rates 100 amp or less breaker terminals at 60 degrees c unless other wise marked on the breaker. This puts whatever wire that is connected to the breaker in the 60 degree column. This changes your wire rating to #6 @ 55 amps. So, in your example, you could connect #3 copper (#3 @ 85 amps) to the breaker then use 90 degree c "terminal lugs" (wire nuts if you will) to connect to the thhn to use the 90 degree c rating just to get your 75 amps on the circuit. Can a Diy'er do all this, yes! Do I recommend they do all that, no! Just use the 60 degree c column and size their wire. The panel above will get unrulely really fast if they jump through those hoops.
You don't have to use Wi-Fi with the Tesla Wall Connector for it to work. The Wi-Fi connection is primarily used for software updates, monitoring charging sessions, and adjusting settings via the Tesla app. If you're not concerned about those features, you can skip the Wi-Fi setup, and the Wall Connector will still function normally to charge your Tesla.
Either stranded or solid wire can be used, but there are some considerations: - Stranded Wire is more flexible, which can make it easier to work with, especially when routing wires through tight spaces. Tesla’s installation manual specifies that if stranded wire is used, the installer should ensure that all strands are securely contained within the terminal connection to prevent issues like overheating. - Solid Wire is generally more rigid and may be more difficult to work with in terms of bending and fitting into terminals. It provides a more stable connection when properly secured. Tesla’s Wall Connector manual doesn't mandate the use of either stranded or solid wire but emphasizes proper installation, ensuring that the wire gauge meets electrical code requirements and is appropriate for the amperage of the Wall Connector. If in doubt, it's always good to follow local electrical codes and consult an electrician!
They’re called THHN wires. 6 awg THHN in a conduit is rated for 65 amps so it can go to a 60 amp breaker and charge at 48 amps. If you go with 6 awg NM-B (romex cable), it’s only rated to 55 amps and needs to be powered by 50 amp breaker for a max charging speed of 40 amps.
As per state of charge it’s considered a level 3 not 4 which means it’s weather resistant not proof Asper him if you experience an extreme event hurricane etc it will be compromised . I fitted mine with a spare tire cover . The cable actually helps make it round
What about protection from rain? Is that wall charger completely waterproof on the top side? We plan to install ours outdoors too, so I am wondering if I should put some kind of shelter over the top of the unit?
We’re glad you’re here! We get some pretty bad storms in Chattanooga and I haven’t had any issues with either of the units I have that are exposed like this
Yes, it is generally okay to install a 60-amp charger on a 200-amp house panel, but there are some important factors to consider: Load Calculation: You need to ensure that the combined load of all devices and appliances in your house, including the 60-amp charger, doesn't exceed 80% of the capacity of the 200-amp panel. This is in line with the National Electrical Code (NEC) recommendations. An electrician can perform a load calculation to confirm whether your panel can handle the additional load. Dedicated Circuit: The 60-amp charger should be installed on a dedicated circuit to avoid overloading other circuits. Wiring: Ensure the wiring used for the charger is properly rated for a 60-amp load. Consulting with a licensed electrician is the best approach to make sure your panel can safely support the new charger.
The cost to hire an electrician to install a Tesla Wall Connector varies based on several factors, including the complexity of the installation, local labor rates, and any additional electrical work required (e.g., upgrading your electrical panel or running a long conduit). Here’s a general breakdown: - Basic Installation: If the wiring and panel are already prepared, installation might range from $300 to $700. - More Complex Installation: If additional wiring, conduit, or panel upgrades are required, the cost can rise to $1,000 to $1,500 or more. Factors like wall material (drywall vs. concrete), distance from the breaker box, and regional electrician rates will impact the final price. Some areas may also require permits, which add to the cost. It’s always a good idea to get multiple quotes from licensed electricians for the most accurate estimate.
Is it good idea to install Tesla charger outside of garage or a house ? How was your experience? Was it damaged or stolen because of the outside the house?
@@tesbros He charged you $250 for some PVC, wires, and a breaker? You got taken to the cleaners. PVC is dirt cheap and you can get 2 pole 50A breakers for under $30. 75ft (2x25ft) of 6 guage copper wire is $90. All in, you're at maybe $150?
@@someguy5035 $250-$300 is not a lot for materials for car charger install. Wire is more expensive than you're quoting. Breaker $30 ish. Possibly wall box to pull the wire through $10-$15. All the PVC and / or Romex 4/2 or 6/2 -- it's expensive and adds up. $75 per hour labor is super cheap for quality electrical work. $500 labor is about average (even a bit low) for car charger install.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You can tell the electrician is a master of his craft. His cable management and use of tools is like a work of art.
Indeed, I was an electrician in the Army, that brought back memories
Except he landed the breaker first which is wrong and specially bad that it’s in a video.
Exactly
He didn't torque the termination screws in the breaker
Yea, and also he used (2) red phase instead of black & red, but there is always gonna be critics, especially if this is your field of work (profession) but his work was correct and clean! He gets an 8.5/ 9 out of 10! Good job guy!
So grateful for someone doing a video with a licensed electrician so we don't have to look in the comments for what the installer did wrong. Thanks
Glad it helped
#6 copper THWN is sufficient for 60 amps and a #10 AWG copper equipment grounding conductor is an industry standard ground for a 60-amp load. That open KO seal should also be closed up.
You made it look easy pulling that #6 wires in 3/4
Long runs are easier with staggered wire ends taped and tied. Lube helps. His short run was simple.
Short run, 180 degrees of bend, and super slicks. Easy of a pull as you’re likely to find.
That looked like 1/2 conduit
@@euphoricmonk You'd need 1" minimum to meet code.
at 9:20 or so, you should not use an impact driver for screws (that are probably going into plastic), really easy to strip. use a drill with the torque set down to like '10' out of 20 (20=drill) if you need power driver, hand screwdriver works well too, and much easier to not over torque. Code here in Minnesota is now requiring GFI breakers even for 240 v circuits like my welder and soon to be installed Tesla wall charger.
This vid was immensely helpful for insight on how to remove one as well. Moving and locals are charging a grip just to take it off the wall.
So glad it helped, Jack!
Best install video. It was a great idea to have your Professional Electrician doing the work.
best video ever. i was able to install mine by myself.
What gauge wire does this use, for a 60 amp breaker?
Also, what is the length of the charging cable? (To the car)
Thank you.
@@iv29176. It’s in the manual. Minimum 6 awg. The directions are for a 60 amp hook up. I believe 6 awg 90c is rated for 75. Everything is going to need to function at 80% of rated. I’m not an electrician and this comment is purely for entertainment.
Nice, simple installation, similar to mine. However, I'm surprised he used steel pipe straps. Hopefully they're galvanized. Check them, because they may rust. You may consider replacing them with non-metallic (grey) straps, should you run into a rust problem. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tips!
lol
They’re called straps, not clips.
@@RB-xv4si thanks, I've updated my comment.
The electrician i hired did mine for $800 that included the 50 amp rated wire and the 40 amp breaker. He put a range outlet so i can plug the mobil charger. My tesla is in a garage.. so i dont need the wall charger. he also told me that he did about 400 charger installs in his life so far… not bad.. the demand is rising…. Because i only have a model 3 rwd which can only be charged at 32 amp. i don't think i would ever need a 60 amp breaker with 60 amp rated wire,,, for me 32 amp is more than enough to charge a model 3 rwd.. (actually any tesla). Maybe someday if i have extra money i would try a gen3 wall charger, if i can find one used.. but for now the mobile charger does the trick on my m3 rwd…
60/50AMP rated wire is a 6 gauge copper wire and you would use a 50AMP breaker or 60 amp breaker depending on the setup. You should ask your electrician what gauge copper wire he used on your setup.
I am asking this with a sense of urgency - you said: "He put a range outlet so i can plug the mobil charger." I REALLY, REALLY hope your outlet was NOT a standard outlet such as this $15 type of Leviton outlet: Leviton 50 amps 125/250 V Duplex Black Outlet 14-50R 1 pk, Shop all Leviton, Item # 3708567 | Mfr # R10-00279-S00??? If so, IMMEDIATELY unplug your charger from the outlet, call a different electrician and get, at a minimum, the following: Hubbell Lighting 125V 50A 3-Pole 4-Wire Receptacle - HBL9450A. THIS IS IMPORTANT!! The 'range' outlet you mentioned will fail big time if it hasn't already. And by fail, I mean catch on fire. It is not meant for the continuous load a charger uses.
Best Tutorial! I used this guide to install my Gen 3 DIY outdoor. The mini 15s/20s breakers was the best idea since I didn’t have space for 60A. Great job
They’re called tandem breakers.
Quick clean install, but going to echo another comment about torquing the terminal screws in the wire box and breaker. They need to be torqued to 50 lbf . in (pound-force inch) as per manual. Loose wires at terminals will create arc, arcs create electrical fire. Stay safe out there!
Just a heads up.. if inspected, you need an expansion coupling and appropriate clips. Thanks
Need to use a torque screwdriver on both the breaker and the charger base terminals. No matter how experienced a sparky you think you are, 80% of electricians don't torque their terminals right, which is a problem down the line.
Why is it an issue?
@@filibertosalinas6816 1. The code says so. 2 improperly torqued connections are a big problem.
@@filibertosalinas6816 Incorrectly torqued terminals can cause the connection to arc and spark, starting a fire; or it can make the components work harder than they should, which leads to overall component degradation.
If you have under torqued terminals, that leads to increased resistance and increased heat stress, which is what causes fires. So yeah, it’s important. Also it’s a code requirement; 110.14(D)
Is a problem but probably won’t affect the consumer… similar to putting tires on your car with a torque wrench… tight enough is usually good… “MOST” of the time
Brother doin it all on a hot panel
Thanks for the video, everything was explained perfectly
I installed mine with ROMEX, nails and a rusty screwdriver and it's working fine.
1:53 i know you probably want something custom but tesla does sell colored glass covers.
You should include the setup, which is a bit confusing because you join the device to your WiFi network, but still configure it by power cycling and connecting to it as a WiFi hotspot.
what gage wire you use?
Yep, I’m an electrician and I never land the line side first, ever. I never feel comfortable. Plus on union jobs, you can get fired for that, not practicing lock out tag out
Yeah man, great video. I was worried about installing this at first, but I'm glad it's a lot more simple than I thought. But what I really don't understand, is why you can put a 48 amp load on a 60 amp breaker, but you can only put a 32 amp load on a 50 amp breaker. Shouldn't you be able to charge at 38 amps with a 50 amp breaker? I know if you get too close to the overload threshold current of a breaker, it overheats the element of the disconnect mechanism, and can damage it, making it impossible to turn back on once it turns off, and worst case scenario it can make enough heat to cause some polymer in the fuse box to catch fire. What I don't understand is why you can get within 12 amps of the 60 amp threshold, but you can get within only 18 amps of the threshold of a 50 amp breaker. I'm thinking the element for the diffusing mechanism in the 60 amp is a little more resistant to heat then the element in a 50 amp breaker, which actually allows you to safely get closer to the maximum load of the 60 amp breaker.
Thanks for posting this video. Came in very useful! Appreciate it.
I swear not even an actual electrician can do electrical work without getting criticized. There’s still people in the world that wants to pay you’ll to do this work. It’s fine😂
Me feeling like, "this is easy, if he can do it so can I"
Later on the new "house blew up with random guy tried to build a charging station in his house and fucked up" lol
😂
Not rocket science
Noticed the grounding wire from the charger was hooked up to the neutral wire at the breakerbox. Is that ok, or should it have been hooked up to the grounding terminal block?
Was that a neutral or ground? I saw he terminated it on the neutral bar!
They are probably bound together in that panel, since it comes before in inside panel.
TEXTBOOK PERFECT
It's hilarious as an electrician listening to someone who isn't an electrician explain the process that's going on.
This video is not meant for electricians, right? The average Joe/Jan is the targeted audience.
@@warrenchen716pretty sure the electrician would know more.
no
Thank you for the video and saving me a lot of headache
Nice outdoor install Bro! Did you remove the label showing the QR code so no one can re-commission it if the decide to rip it off your wall?
You don’t need a ground wire the same size as the circuit conductors. That’s big time overkill. NEC table 250.122 allows #10 wire for the ground on a 60a circuit. He went 2 sizes bigger and there is 0 benefit to that. Just more expensive.
250.122 my dude. Non sparkys touching my work I tell you
@@nolanandert4258 I know, right. They’re out in force on UA-cam like they are the authority on this work. IMO, you want to DIY your own electric vehicle charger, fine. But don’t post videos acting like you actually know what you’re doing.
@@RB-xv4si should be putting their money into the game, we know what we are doing and get get it code legal. Pay your local electrician!!
It’s actually safer to make sure ground wire is same size as ungrounded conductors. Especially if home owners are doing a DIY install.
I guess no white neutral wire for this installation ?
Standard installation today for heavy electric equipment at home: Stove, Washing machine, electric drier, and charging for EV comes with: 1 ground, and 2 hots for USA standard. I believe the hots are always 120v x2. For Sweden where I lived before, its automatically a 220/240 outlet and its 1 hot red which is 240v.
Curious, why no Neutral White wire in this install.
Great info thank you.
Textbook perfect 👍🏼
Your electrician should have installed PVC expansion coupling or couplings. Also it looks like his ground wire was unnecessarily oversized. It looks like he used a full size gram of number six, but the code only requires a number 10 which would have saved money on the additionally by the 2020 code is now required to have a GFCI protection to pole breaker at the end of this VO, he mentions putting quad breakers or twin breakers in to make space in the panel. He should’ve mentioned that those twin breakers are many times not permitted to be installed in certain panels. Always follow the UL list at manufactures instructions further note if you didn’t have the breaker panel outside as close as he did, you would also need an outdoor service disconnect within sight of the charger or not more than 50 feet
no
Why do people including this electrician lands their line side wires first , a great rule of thumb for safety is always land your load side wires first then the line side last , just in case someone accidentally turns on the breaker while you’re landing the wires to the actual wall charger. It’s just like in firearms “Always assume your gun is always loaded “ in electricity “Always assume your wires are always live.” ✌🏽
I'm not an electrician so not sure but that makes sense!
I'm fresh AF and my last land is always line side
Lock out tag out kids
I install power walls and chargers all the time you’re 100 percent right it’s bad practice
Your wires shouldn’t be landed on the breaker while doing this kiddos lol so it won’t matter
Great video installation. 👍🏾
thanks for the info
No neutral ?
Same thing I’m thinking?
I wonder if he used the green wire for neutral
What gauge wire did you use. Thanks for the video.
we used a 6 gauge for a 60amp breaker
Thank you.
I ran some 6AWG through 3/4 inch it was a pain in my ass. But I had more bends, which might have been why.
I feel like you need 1 inch for 3+1 6AWG.
Ok I see, he used already separated wiring. I used 3+1 6AWG that was sleeved together already.
@@R0B0T2k I'm getting conflicting information from everywhere. I was getting 6/2 sleeved to run mine but some people are saying you need a neutral. I don't see anywhere, including in the Tesla manual that you need a neutral. All manuals show 2 hot, 1 ground. I'm connecting directly to my main panel with a 60A breaker.
@@jeffferraro4981 you don’t need a neutral but, that 6/2 sleeved isn’t up to code for the 60 amp breaker. You need THHN like in this video
Then you should run # 4 wire. For 60 amp breaker.
How come you didn't have neutral wire?
In this application, the ground is being used as the neutral.
question: why you don't connect the panel inside the garage. I only have 1 electronic panel inside the garage...........
This is the only panel I have. If yours is in the garage, that's no problem. Use that one.
Great vid Man !! But is not danger to charge that if it rains ??
Nope!
Thanks for the video
Is it safe to install the wall charger outside? Any updates?
Thank you
Yes, I’ve had no issues
Thanks for this video man! Super helpful cheers 🤙
I would recommend TTHN #4 and you can use a #6 or #8 ground in 3/4" conduit. This will allow you around 76A of capacity if you want to add another wall connector and share the load, that's 38a each. The cost difference for me was about $.50 per foot on the #4 wire TTHN vs. staying w/ TTHN #6.
He hired a pro that knew NEC section 625.40 states,. "Each outlet installed for the purpose of charging electric vehicles shall be supplied by an individual branch circuit eat circuit shall have no other outlets."
I missed this one:
2020 NEC table 310.16 does rate thhn in the 90 degree column..... #6 @ 75 amps.
However, section 110.14 TERMINAL CONNECTIONS rates 100 amp or less breaker terminals at 60 degrees c unless other wise marked on the breaker.
This puts whatever wire that is connected to the breaker in the 60 degree column. This changes your wire rating to #6 @ 55 amps.
So, in your example, you could connect #3 copper (#3 @ 85 amps) to the breaker then use 90 degree c "terminal lugs" (wire nuts if you will) to connect to the thhn to use the 90 degree c rating just to get your 75 amps on the circuit.
Can a Diy'er do all this, yes! Do I recommend they do all that, no! Just use the 60 degree c column and size their wire. The panel above will get unrulely really fast if they jump through those hoops.
Depends if he has a 200amp msp or a 100amp msp.
… do I have to use Wi-Fi with this? or can I ignore the Wi-Fi and just hook it up and it will work?
You don't have to use Wi-Fi with the Tesla Wall Connector for it to work. The Wi-Fi connection is primarily used for software updates, monitoring charging sessions, and adjusting settings via the Tesla app. If you're not concerned about those features, you can skip the Wi-Fi setup, and the Wall Connector will still function normally to charge your Tesla.
that's the easiest location to install it. siding/exterior surface mounted breaker/ conduit/ no attic crawl wire dropping through drywall.
Thanks for sharing!!
can you hook up with 100 amp pannel?
From my limited knowledge, as long as you have space and power, yes. But you should consult a certified electrician.
Can you use stranded wire or do you have to use solid
Either stranded or solid wire can be used, but there are some considerations:
- Stranded Wire is more flexible, which can make it easier to work with, especially when routing wires through tight spaces. Tesla’s installation manual specifies that if stranded wire is used, the installer should ensure that all strands are securely contained within the terminal connection to prevent issues like overheating.
- Solid Wire is generally more rigid and may be more difficult to work with in terms of bending and fitting into terminals. It provides a more stable connection when properly secured.
Tesla’s Wall Connector manual doesn't mandate the use of either stranded or solid wire but emphasizes proper installation, ensuring that the wire gauge meets electrical code requirements and is appropriate for the amperage of the Wall Connector. If in doubt, it's always good to follow local electrical codes and consult an electrician!
What are these individual electrical wires you use? I did not see material on blog either
They’re called THHN wires. 6 awg THHN in a conduit is rated for 65 amps so it can go to a 60 amp breaker and charge at 48 amps. If you go with 6 awg NM-B (romex cable), it’s only rated to 55 amps and needs to be powered by 50 amp breaker for a max charging speed of 40 amps.
Wires should be torqued on the panel.
I wonder if the wall charger is waterproof?
It’s weatherproof and should withstand the elements.
As per state of charge it’s considered a level 3 not 4 which means it’s weather resistant not proof Asper him if you experience an extreme event hurricane etc it will be compromised . I fitted mine with a spare tire cover . The cable actually helps make it round
Great Video can Michael come to California 😎🙏🏽
Just got my Performance Model Y can’t wait to get wall connector
Where is the neutral? Or does it return via the earth?
3 wire , same AWG ? # 6 ?
What did this end up running you on the cost to install wall charger and breaker and running the wires?
Great video. Thank you Sir.
What about protection from rain? Is that wall charger completely waterproof on the top side? We plan to install ours outdoors too, so I am wondering if I should put some kind of shelter over the top of the unit?
The Tesla wall connector is waterproof! I don't have anything over mine and haven't had any issues.
It’s a NEMA 3R rated enclosure so it’s meant to handle rain.
Hey what was that tool he used to measure the voltage?
Multimeter
I think should install a shield to protect charger, let rain can't wash the charger.
It’s totally fine out in the elements, but you can create a shelter for it if it gives you some peace of mind. I’ve seen plenty of people do that too
The charger is rated for outdoor use.
Well done on the wiring. Any concerns or issues with the unit being out doors in regards to weather? No, I do not have an EV. Just trying to learn.
We’re glad you’re here! We get some pretty bad storms in Chattanooga and I haven’t had any issues with either of the units I have that are exposed like this
W. S. The price instalación??
Only ground, no neutral?
It seems you hired a professional. It can totally be DIY.
Is it ok to install 60amps charger on a 200amps house panel?
Yes, it is generally okay to install a 60-amp charger on a 200-amp house panel, but there are some important factors to consider:
Load Calculation: You need to ensure that the combined load of all devices and appliances in your house, including the 60-amp charger, doesn't exceed 80% of the capacity of the 200-amp panel. This is in line with the National Electrical Code (NEC) recommendations. An electrician can perform a load calculation to confirm whether your panel can handle the additional load.
Dedicated Circuit: The 60-amp charger should be installed on a dedicated circuit to avoid overloading other circuits.
Wiring: Ensure the wiring used for the charger is properly rated for a 60-amp load.
Consulting with a licensed electrician is the best approach to make sure your panel can safely support the new charger.
It gets pretty cold and pretty hot in Tennessee. I hope those chargers were designed to handle that kind of weather and are sealed against rain.
Absolutely!
Can you keep it outdoor??
Yes
Does the wall connector turn off when not charging? In other words, does the device constantly draw current when not actively charging the car?
Barely any, you won't even really notice
I think it might draw 1 or 2 watts to keep the wifi active.
Thanks for this video bro
What was the cost of installation
The cost to hire an electrician to install a Tesla Wall Connector varies based on several factors, including the complexity of the installation, local labor rates, and any additional electrical work required (e.g., upgrading your electrical panel or running a long conduit).
Here’s a general breakdown:
- Basic Installation: If the wiring and panel are already prepared, installation might range from $300 to $700.
- More Complex Installation: If additional wiring, conduit, or panel upgrades are required, the cost can rise to $1,000 to $1,500 or more.
Factors like wall material (drywall vs. concrete), distance from the breaker box, and regional electrician rates will impact the final price. Some areas may also require permits, which add to the cost. It’s always a good idea to get multiple quotes from licensed electricians for the most accurate estimate.
with wall charger u installes how long it charge the battery to reach 80%?
At 48a, it can inject 44mi/hr into the car.
where is his PPE?
you are using the sub electric panel. Lucky you bro!
Expansion joint always on pvc. Shorter runs are not code, but who but it anyways. PVC straps for PVC, this is code
What size cable he use?
In Europe, due to 3 phase, you can use MUCH thinner wires, as current 3x less for 11kW.
Great vid. I'm seeing 2 hot red and one ground, what happens to the neutral wire? Not needed? Thanks!
Not needed!
Is a white neutral wire not necessary?
Because we use two hot leads (120v x2) which eliminates the common. It is then required to run a ground separately.
How much it cost ?
Hello, can we use the Tesla charger to charge different brands of cars?
If you have the right adapter, yes
Does the green light stay on all day and night when not in use?
Yes
This installation outside condition, do you need GFCI circuit breaker ?
Great question, but I would ask your electrician about this. They'll be able to explain what you need.
How much did he charge you?
What type of tool do you use to loosen or tighten the set screws in the charger?
Hex bit 4MM
Is it good idea to install Tesla charger outside of garage or a house ? How was your experience? Was it damaged or stolen because of the outside the house?
My experience has been fine - no damage or issues. but I say do what you’re comfortable with.
Good
How much did the electrician charge (labor) and how much was the parts.
75 per hour for labor and about 250-300 for parts.
@@tesbros He charged you $250 for some PVC, wires, and a breaker? You got taken to the cleaners. PVC is dirt cheap and you can get 2 pole 50A breakers for under $30. 75ft (2x25ft) of 6 guage copper wire is $90. All in, you're at maybe $150?
@@someguy5035 Most charge $500 for labor only......for installation.....
@@someguy5035 $250-$300 is not a lot for materials for car charger install. Wire is more expensive than you're quoting. Breaker $30 ish. Possibly wall box to pull the wire through $10-$15. All the PVC and / or Romex 4/2 or 6/2 -- it's expensive and adds up. $75 per hour labor is super cheap for quality electrical work. $500 labor is about average (even a bit low) for car charger install.
Did he not glue any of the pvc together?
he did! he used pvc glue
Hi thax, for the video, can you install it outside? Is it protected from rain /snow /heat
Yes
Thought I could do this…. Nah… some costs in life are in-avoidable.
What happens if it rains on it? Will it turn off or will the car get electrocuted?
No worries, it's waterproof
how much did it cost cuz I have one outside my house also
how much you get model Y per hr charge on wall charger ?
up to 44 miles per hour
@@tesbros thanks
What cable was used in this video?
Cooper 60 Amperes