You explained that modification really well. I don’t know much about engines, but I saw Herbs name mentioned in the intro and had to watch. I appraised his house and property about twelve years ago and pretty much spent the day there taking to him about racing. He is a humble man with immense talent. His shop is state of the art and his car collection is remarkable. I had a chance meeting with him back in the ‘70’s when he was with Sox & Martin. He bought a Saunier Wilhelm Pool Table from me and he still had it. I am glad I got to meet Herb.
Lock McKinnon Herb is great, i spoke to him on the phone when i was first getting into drag racing, i was probably 19. He was very humble and easy to speak with. He spent a decent amount of time explaining things to me. Makes me proud to be involved in mopar drag racing. Every big time mopar racer I’ve spoken with has been great..... herb, mr. norm, don garlitz, the mancini guys back in the day. Guys from the old days are classy dudes
Herb will lay an education on someone in a heartbeat. He can smooth talk and explain things in depth very well. I just talked to him Sunday. He was wiring up a 3rd Gen Hemi in a 1960 Plymouth station wagon. 👍🇺🇸
Awesome !!! I just watched a series of herb narrating his career ! .... he is equal in status to an Arnold palmer of golf or any other famous person who is first class and humble ....
Very good video with the RB engine rocker shaft oil appetite. I recall an article way back in the 70's about the need to control that oil - it stated at 5000 rpm the B-RB- pumps about 1qt per second, much of it going above the cylinder head. It gave a great suggestion of addressing this excessive oil loss another way: Find the oil gallery holes on both decks, tap them to accept a plug that had a restrictor hole drilled through them. Picture a carb jet. Thread that plug into each oil gallery hole, making sure it seats below the deck height. That way, you wouldn't need to block flow to the 1-3-5-7 side lifter bores, yet at the same time the oil going topside is constricted.
My Superstock 383 used 5/16 drill then we used Holley jets to plug off the galley to rockers. Biggest problem is making sure oil galley for rockers is clean. You only have aft end to blow out stuff. No thru holes. I made a special blow gun to try to help. guess it worked.
Trick I use to restrict left side lifter galley is find an Allen wrench that will just drop in the feed hole from above. Saw it off and drop it in the hole. Presto, still get some oil to galley and easily reversable.
Okay a couple of things, those are called chucking reamers for anyone looking for them, they are able to be purchased 'piloted', which will make life so much easier for all (no need to taper a reamer, these things work perfect, perfect tool for the job, they don't cost extra). make sure you use lube, a general purpose RTD type (ream drill tap) lubricant would be perfect, the idea is to keep the temperature out of the tool, keep the ream cool and it will keep sharp, when using these precision cutting reamers never ever ever turn them backwards, they will be tight in the hole they make, it's a precision hole and perfectly round, operate the drill in the same direction that it cuts to withdraw the tool if you need to in order to get the tool out.
Darren Cole A question... how long is the pilot on the end of the reamer? You have to break into a passage. There is only so much room across the passage to get the hole completely cut to a uniformed circumference. And yes lube should be used! I don’t remember now what i used. I’m assuming some type of spray like good old wd40 since that was what was on my shelf.
@@sandozman6085 The pilot is usually around .300, not much, but the idea is to get one which closely matches the bore size of the original hole, you'll be able to finish off the last of that hole with an unpiloted reamer if you need to. I'm lucky to work in a job where I have access to acquire reamers paid for by the company, I'd have dozens and dozens, gets expensive when they cost around $10 a pop, so not a bad thing you've done, there is an easier way with better tools, but in the end it's the same job.
My howards mechanical flat cam recommends increased oiling, is this the trick for increasing the oiling. I have direct lube lifters. Hopefully there will be some explanation in the cam install instructions.
I have been out of the hobby for a long time now. I’m not sure what direct lube lifters are. So I don’t wanna give you any answer. I will say this reduces flow to the lifter galleries because mechanical cams don’t require the oil pressure to hold them up. Thus it allows oil flow and pressure to be higher at the crank and rods, mitigating the stock block issues there. I would call the cam manufacturer. Hopefully they are good at customer service, and will take time explaining it all
Good tech tip for the big blocks, I will probably do this to the next one I build. I think the hole in the bearing shell is smaller than the passage in the block?
I don’t believe I’ve seen a bearing hole smaller than the block hole. Maybe in a real low quality set…. But i would have addressed it I’m sure. Check out my channel if you haven’t, theres a few different tech and progress videos of my charger there. Its in the paint shop right now for a refresh.
Awesome video for those of us building big inch Mopars. Would you be able to just use a drill bit the same diameter as your reamer? Most hardware stores sell long drill bits (18 inches or longer).
Merry Christmas karl…. I’m sure santa 🎄 will fill your stocking with coal. He mentioned to me he was planning on giving you a nice set of flip flops for the beach 🏖…. But your wife told him you you weren’t a fan of flops, while he was putting his pants back on. 😬
As I remember Herbs directions specifically stated to use a reamer to avoid a drill bit biting in too hard and breaking. A problem that would be far worse than time consumption
I used the drill bit, started at a slight angle towards the hole, and it went right in. Much more time spent cleaning. Yep, 10-15 minutes drilling with motor oil on bit. FYI, reamers snap off too.
mrbizmarky1 yeah, basically it helps overcome the problem with the one main and rod that feeds up and gets burnt before the others. And it just makes the system more efficient.
Any Machining done on blocks or heads, the components really need to be hot Tanked to be cleaned correctly. You want those shavings out of your engine completely
I agree. In fact i went further than that not sure if i elaborated in the video. I brushed the passages with hot soapy water, and rinsed. Then it was hot tanked and rinsed at competition wedge racing in Brewerton ny before the main clearances were set.
You explained that modification really well. I don’t know much about engines, but I saw Herbs name mentioned in the intro and had to watch. I appraised his house and property about twelve years ago and pretty much spent the day there taking to him about racing. He is a humble man with immense talent. His shop is state of the art and his car collection is remarkable. I had a chance meeting with him back in the ‘70’s when he was with Sox & Martin. He bought a Saunier Wilhelm Pool Table from me and he still had it. I am glad I got to meet Herb.
Lock McKinnon
Herb is great, i spoke to him on the phone when i was first getting into drag racing, i was probably 19. He was very humble and easy to speak with. He spent a decent amount of time explaining things to me.
Makes me proud to be involved in mopar drag racing. Every big time mopar racer I’ve spoken with has been great..... herb, mr. norm, don garlitz, the mancini guys back in the day. Guys from the old days are classy dudes
Herb will lay an education on someone in a heartbeat. He can smooth talk and explain things in depth very well. I just talked to him Sunday. He was wiring up a 3rd Gen Hemi in a 1960 Plymouth station wagon. 👍🇺🇸
@@sandozman6085 They sure are. It's great when our heroes are Wonderful, down to earth guys like these and more.
Awesome !!! I just watched a series of herb narrating his career ! .... he is equal in status to an Arnold palmer of golf or any other famous person who is first class and humble ....
Very good video with the RB engine rocker shaft oil appetite. I recall an article way back in the 70's about the need to control that oil - it stated at 5000 rpm the B-RB- pumps about 1qt per second, much of it going above the cylinder head. It gave a great suggestion of addressing this excessive oil loss another way: Find the oil gallery holes on both decks, tap them to accept a plug that had a restrictor hole drilled through them. Picture a carb jet. Thread that plug into each oil gallery hole, making sure it seats below the deck height. That way, you wouldn't need to block flow to the 1-3-5-7 side lifter bores, yet at the same time the oil going topside is constricted.
I did a video recently on restricting the external oiling to indy heads.
My Superstock 383 used 5/16 drill then we used Holley jets to plug off the galley to rockers. Biggest problem is making sure oil galley for rockers is clean. You only have aft end to blow out stuff. No thru holes. I made a special blow gun to try to help. guess it worked.
Trick I use to restrict left side lifter galley is find an Allen wrench that will just drop in the feed hole from above. Saw it off and drop it in the hole. Presto, still get some oil to galley and easily reversable.
You need to come uo with a video on a mod for oiling the modern hemi roler-tappets !
Okay a couple of things, those are called chucking reamers for anyone looking for them, they are able to be purchased 'piloted', which will make life so much easier for all (no need to taper a reamer, these things work perfect, perfect tool for the job, they don't cost extra). make sure you use lube, a general purpose RTD type (ream drill tap) lubricant would be perfect, the idea is to keep the temperature out of the tool, keep the ream cool and it will keep sharp, when using these precision cutting reamers never ever ever turn them backwards, they will be tight in the hole they make, it's a precision hole and perfectly round, operate the drill in the same direction that it cuts to withdraw the tool if you need to in order to get the tool out.
Darren Cole
A question... how long is the pilot on the end of the reamer?
You have to break into a passage.
There is only so much room across the passage to get the hole completely cut to a uniformed circumference.
And yes lube should be used!
I don’t remember now what i used. I’m assuming some type of spray like good old wd40 since that was what was on my shelf.
@@sandozman6085 The pilot is usually around .300, not much, but the idea is to get one which closely matches the bore size of the original hole, you'll be able to finish off the last of that hole with an unpiloted reamer if you need to.
I'm lucky to work in a job where I have access to acquire reamers paid for by the company, I'd have dozens and dozens, gets expensive when they cost around $10 a pop, so not a bad thing you've done, there is an easier way with better tools, but in the end it's the same job.
Maybe, to protect from marring. you can put in an old main bearing for protection.
That is a very good idea. I never thought of that.
My howards mechanical flat cam recommends increased oiling, is this the trick for increasing the oiling. I have direct lube lifters.
Hopefully there will be some explanation in the cam install instructions.
I have been out of the hobby for a long time now. I’m not sure what direct lube lifters are.
So I don’t wanna give you any answer.
I will say this reduces flow to the lifter galleries because mechanical cams don’t require the oil pressure to hold them up.
Thus it allows oil flow and pressure to be higher at the crank and rods, mitigating the stock block issues there.
I would call the cam manufacturer. Hopefully they are good at customer service, and will take time explaining it all
Ty Sir , Working on my 440 now✌
We used to just do 2,3 and 4 main as they feed 2 rods as opposed to 1 and 5 that only feed 1 rod.
Good tech tip for the big blocks, I will probably do this to the next one I build. I think the hole in the bearing shell is smaller than the passage in the block?
I don’t believe I’ve seen a bearing hole smaller than the block hole. Maybe in a real low quality set….
But i would have addressed it I’m sure.
Check out my channel if you haven’t, theres a few different tech and progress videos of my charger there. Its in the paint shop right now for a refresh.
Awesome video, very informative - thanks a lot. Do you think the left side block off without the main galleys reamed out is still a good move?
I don’t see why it wouldn’t help you, as long as your not running hydraulic cam.
Awesome video for those of us building big inch Mopars. Would you be able to just use a drill bit the same diameter as your reamer? Most hardware stores sell long drill bits (18 inches or longer).
1967davethewave
I believe reamers are more durable and wont snap off as easily.
@@sandozman6085 exactly correct. I use them in aviation all the time. More accurate when reaming a hole for interference fit Hi-lok fasteners.
Do You know what tap size is needed to conver block to bigger oil pickup tube?
mr T not sure, i plugged mine and use a swinging pick up
1/2" NPT.
630hp, Enjoy your presentations.
Never trust a guy in girly flip flops
Merry Christmas karl…. I’m sure santa 🎄 will fill your stocking with coal.
He mentioned to me he was planning on giving you a nice set of flip flops for the beach 🏖…. But your wife told him you you weren’t a fan of flops, while he was putting his pants back on. 😬
@@sandozman6085 oh shi… that was cold🤣
you totally did it the hard way by using a reamer. the existing hole is 1/4'', just use a 9/32 drill and you're done in 15min rather than 3hours.
As I remember Herbs directions specifically stated to use a reamer to avoid a drill bit biting in too hard and breaking.
A problem that would be far worse than time consumption
I used the drill bit, started at a slight angle towards the hole, and it went right in. Much more time spent cleaning. Yep, 10-15 minutes drilling with motor oil on bit. FYI, reamers snap off too.
Obviously this is for a hydrolic lifters?
mrbizmarky1 No. This will not work with hydraulic lifters. I use solid flat tappet.
sandoz man I didn’t watch the whole video . Thanks
Oh ok more oil to the mains, I thought it was to GE more oil to the lifters I was like they usually don’t need anymore oil to the top.
mrbizmarky1 yeah, basically it helps overcome the problem with the one main and rod that feeds up and gets burnt before the others. And it just makes the system more efficient.
sandoz man 👍
Any Machining done on blocks or heads, the components really need to be hot Tanked to be cleaned correctly. You want those shavings out of your engine completely
I agree.
In fact i went further than that not sure if i elaborated in the video. I brushed the passages with hot soapy water, and rinsed. Then it was hot tanked and rinsed at competition wedge racing in Brewerton ny before the main clearances were set.
Too much work man
Jerk Jiggler
Ha... nothing is easy on this old stuff, if you wanna make it live.