Manual Mesh Bed Levelling - Free warped bed solution
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2019
- Automatic mesh bed levelling is a great addition to 3D printers. It makes the first layer repeatable and convenient, especially with a warped bed. Sometimes it's not the best solution, however, owing to cost or added weight and complexity to the print head. Manual mesh bed levelling is a firmware only solution that can achieves great results for free!
In this video, the need for mesh bed levelling is explained and then a step by step guide is supplied to enable and calibrate the feature on your Marlin based 3D printed. This was a perfect fit for my Seckit SK-GO, where I wanted to keep everything as light as possible.
Seckit SK-Go assembly and test prints: • SecKit SK-GO assembly ...
Manual mesh bed levelling Marlin reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-m...
M420 Marlin reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html
Chain mail with spikes: www.thingiverse.com/thing:336...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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Don't stop love your work ,hope my son who is going into teaching will reach you heights.
You are the man! No joke you have taught me sooooo much! I wouldn't have gotten far on my ender 3 without you!
Excellent video once again Micheal. I have been on the manual mesh levelling method for quite some time now and after the levels are set I print a series of 25X25mm x0.2mm thickness squares in the position of each probing point. After the print is finished I measure each square and if it is not printed at 0.2mm then you can compensate with another manual adjustment, only this time each point is only adjusted to the ensure a 0.2mm layer will be printed on that probing point. I find doing this negates the need for baby stepping the first layer and eliminates any guess work. Keep up the great work Micheal.
Wow! Best investment in time spent with my printer to date. Followed these amazingly simple instructions and after updating the correct firmware (Creality's Ender 3 4.2.2 boards are not easy to find the right config.h files for), and adding the gcode to my slicer after running the mesh bed level and was experiencing 1st layer porn. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. This is exactly what was needed.
Thank you so much for this! I just got my first 3D printer a few days ago and have had nothing but trouble with the bed, and have only been able to print on the corners. It's glass but has a significant dip in the middle, and I will definitely be using this technique until I get a replacement bed. You're a lifesaver!
Glass + glue stick equals printing happiness 😏
I shimmed underneath my warped bed to get it flat-ish but if I knew this was an option I wouldn't have bothered. This is great. Thanks so much for sharing
Really helpful and extremely informative. I have recently purchased my 6th printer a Creality Ender 3 V2 I installed a CR touch and in almost 3 weeks did not achieve one print. To be honest it has been a total nightmare, I have an Ender 5 plus with BL Touch and it worked out of the box (after assembly) the 5 has been modded tinkered and hammered and prints almost non stop. I am now limiting myself to 3 more days with the 3 after which it is going back to the seller. The Y axis stepper motor gets incredibly hot, in fact so hot I blistered a finger after touching it. I have flashed new firmware which linked me to your video and tonight will be adjusting the end stop position and watching your video a few more times before creating a mesh. I so want to like this machine but my experience has been poor to say the least. Thanks for a video which is easy to understand and informative, keep up the excellent work ;-)
It's just crazy 😍. I will add manual mesh bed leveling on my CR-10S. Thank you very much for your help and this great video and the very precise explanations.
I appreciate this video. I had no idea I could do a manual leveling before this.
I have been living with manual mesh bed leveling all this time. Works really great. I usually heat up both bed and nozzle when doing the calibration, though. And as long as your bed is rigid enough, there is no real need to recalibrate... I have printed for months without having to do any recalibration, and the only times I did have to recalibrate was when I made changes to the hotend assembly.
I was able to get this going on my Ender3 and it works great. I am using the TH3D marlin firmware package, so the settings are scattered around in the Configuration tabs. Fade had to be enabled in the 'backend' tab. More super helpful content! Thanks again Micheal!
Hey I'm using th3d on my ender 3 max and can't find a fade option do you know where that is or if it's there at all?
I mainly print smaller parts so I didn't notice how warped my bed was for the good part of a year. Now that I need the whole bed I need to set first layer 0.8mm to stick properly and not collide with parts of the bed at other spots so this will be a life saver.
The best explanation so far for manual mesh bed leveling! Thanks.
I like the way your footage of the BLTouch shows a missed trigger on the second to last probe, it's a good representation of how reliable they are!
Thanks Michael! The options for 5 max points and LCD are even already defined in the TH3D firware pack! Too easy!
I know, but does it really saves the grid. I always press store but when I restart the printer it seems that the values are not saved because it doesnt show ON in the bed leveling menue. Also I did M420 S1 Z2 in all my slicers.
Useful and informative video.
I like this method better than the auto-levelling with bltouch. This allows me to actually know and see that the vertical distances are accurate since i am doing them I know and can check my settings with m48 v. I think this is more of a main reason at least for me. I dont know why cost and bulkiness would be the main reasons. The bltouch i had installed seemed to be giving me alot of issues. First i did not know if it was actually recording proper vertical distances. Second, my prints were ugly with so much bleeding around the edges signifying an unlevel bed. Almost looked like it messed up the mesh and vertical distances were all over the place. And most importantly i did not even know if those distances were accurate.
Quality of prints and reliability should be first amd foremost.
Great video Michael. I'm with you on ABL, my BL Touch works perfectly on the #Borg, I also have the stock ABL solutions on my other printers.
This is like night and day from what i had before. Always needed glue but now since its perfectly level with mesh everything’s sticks and comes off easy after cooldown
Loves you videos..just wanted to note something general.
After probing people will inspect how warped is the bed.. the prob is measuring the distance between it and the bed but who says it moves in a streight line.. the beam it slides on also got tolerances that can be even larger then the bed
This works so well that I'm now hesitant to install this BL Touch that arrived in the mail. Thank you for the informative video.
The BL is still worth it, manual requires a bit more work and maintenance.
Excellent!!! I have a digital dial indicator mount on my ender 3. So, if I entered the offsets, I could dial in each point numerically rather than the paper, which I have not had the greatest luck.!
Finally a clear answer to this question at 5:46! Thank you!
I needed this topic explained so bad. Thanks.
Great guide as always
Thanks for sharing👍😀
If the grounding area is as small as the chainmail, glue is highly recommended to make it a little too sticky to ensure success. Can't be easier to remove the glue by water. ^^
Loved this video. I hope hat you will one day revisit this, only using bigtreetech or MKS TFT type screens. I have yet to see a tutorial on how to do this in touch screen mode.
Another great video. Thank you.
Great video! I've struggled with only being able to use the center of my old printer for a while, and haven't bought a bltouch. Does Klipper have a similar firmware option?
You should definitly make a video about the compromise solution: a film probe ($2) you attach to the nozzle manualy for leveling. Much easyer than manual bed leveling, no extra weight while printing - and no extra fixed cabeling, as you attach the probe simply from time to time when you need new leveling with a long cable. And esp. Much less expensive than every other solution for ABL. Maybe use an extension cable (DuPont or JST male2female) connected to the board) to get easy access to the probe input or use a probe with led-board ($5).
I made a video for the Sidewinder myself, but german only, as my english is not very well...
Good work as usual
Thank you , thank you so much. Please keep making videos.
Great videos! Thanks a lot!
Is there a way to set probe points? I would like to probe at specific locations on the bed.
At our school’s maker space we have multiple prusa mk3 with mesh bed leveling and we still get bad first layers pretty often.
God what an improvement. I could only print straight lines and way too close to the bed at the outside just to have it stick at the center.
Mine is the opposite. Dishes in the center and cuts into my build surface at the edges.
@ 6:45 an alternative coud have been to use the Babystepping function instead:
It's faster to click three times from the main menu to directly have access to the Z Babystepping menu, don't you think?
I felt kind of stupid after watching this video. Although, I had all the firmware settings, set correctly before watching the video. I was positive that manual mesh leveling wasn't working or I missed something in the settings. I thought I had to press down on the button to cause the Z to move down or up. Never dawned on me that the z-axis was automatically moving as you "turn" the dial. It was a long, long way off for adjustment. I think I have it set now. Also, I didn't realize I had to add the commands after the G28 code in the startup Gcode setting. Currently running a test print "squash ball feet" for Ender 3 with PETG. Thanks for the video.
Can you please show me how to program boards such as the BTT SKR MINI E3 v1.2? How do you use visual studio?
After much struggling with a constant bed level I bought new springs. i Even with glass bed my bed was too low. My level screws were only effective for about half there range then they would be loose and vibration would change my bed level. I replaced them there was a noticeable difference in height and stiffness. Of course i cut the little tab on the Z axes level just minutes before the new spring showed up :}
I had a thought while watching this: Wouldn't it be also good if less or more filament gets extruded additionally to the z moving? I mean to have the 2nd layer print 100% even on the 1st one. I imagine on large prints it would somehow "warp/distort" the whole print...Or is this neglectible? Or do I have an error in reasoning?
Edit: Just watched the vid completely and realized that fade height takes care of that..
I have fixed my bed physically, without firmware or g-code.
CR10 with a glass plate, where the aluminium-bed below is warped, and the glass warps when heated up.
I start by heating up, and leveling bed-corners with the old paper-method.
Then I move the print-head around the bed to find a low-spot.
I flip the glass and add a thin piece of heat-resistant tape at that spot.
Repeat.
After doing this procedure a couple of times, my bed is now perfectly flat, and I only need to level the corners once in a while.
i fixed my cr10 by just buying a new glass plate; the glass that came with it was warped
no
What about the middle being a little bit higher? This happened in a week of printing stuff. The nozzle damaged the magnetic plate.
UPDATE: I had accidently cleared the EEPROM of the mesh data, which is manually leveling each point on the grid.
Hi this a very informative video u made and this exactly discribe all the area i needed i just want to know what is fade height and what it actually did,,,,reply is appreciated,,,and thanks u very much for this video
Thanks for another Great Video Michael . I do have a few questions. .. 1st how did you speed up mesh leveling? I have a CR10-S5 and it takes forever to complete a 16 point mesh at the current speed. 2nd Can I use the M420 S1 command to recal a mesh done with a BLtouch so I don't have to do a leveling mesh before every print?
I ended up doing this on the TH3d firmware, but the fade option was'nt listed in the bed leveling menu.
I had installed a BLtouch to my u30, however my cat got hold of one of the wires and destroyed it. I had saved the z limit switch just in case something went wrong, re flashed the original firmware back to the printer but now not mater how much i try to get the printer to level the same spots are low and high. I have even tried flipping the build plate to make sure it wasn't warped but same spots same problems. it had worked fine with the z limiter a few days before so i don't think the heat bed is warped, any thoughts?
Great video, but i just ordered BLTouch :D But still i like this way of possible leveling, and maybe i will try it and put bltouch after arrival to the drawer? :D
great video! I have a query
I have ender 3 Pro & have added Creality BL touch Probe.
Am not able to achieve consistently first layer squish every time even with BLtouch probe.
Hence wanted to know is there a way, wr I can add this manual bed mesh leveling along with BL touch attached? can i know what are the other settings that need to be done & compiled ? please help
May I suggest that in addition to this you go one step further. Blue painter's tape is about 0.12mm thick. It works wonders for evening out a warped plate. Just put it under the build surface and recheck the mesh. I got mine under 0.2mm from high to lowest point last time. I need to go over it again for a better result.
I'm running a 9x9 mesh w/ a BLTouch. It's really a tradeoff. There's the time required to manually run a mesh vs the cost and space needed for the automatic options. I needed a granular mesh due to my OEM mat having a "lumpy" surface. 81 pts manually would have been maddening to repeat w/ the tape.
Put leveling compound on bed then 3M3434 blue tape :-)
Nice video thanks, i am going to chk out board to see if this fix will be much better solution that above!
Hi Michael, I think it would be nice to show how the end-stops is adjusted to play nice with manuel bed leveling.
You don’t need to adjust the end stops. Adjust the “Babystep Z” and then “Store settings”. That sets the “zero” for the end stop. So the software knows how much to compensate when the limit switch triggers. (It’s a software method of adjusting the Z axis height difference between the limit switch and the nozzle.)
He shows the process in this video, but he skipped over some info. He tries to keep the instructions simple, but sometimes that leads to confusion for me.
In the illustration of the hotend around 1:50 there is something very wrong with the red cooling bracket. It is mounted upside down onto the heatbreak of the hotend.
Hi Michael.
In case I use a bltouch but don't want to auto bed level every time, I do want to use the bltouch once every while and store the data. Do I need to add the same g code after the g 28?
Thanks
Hey Michael good vídeo, some time ago My BLtouch starting to have compensation problems And the deviation it's less that 0.01 but in one corner My bed was to close And in the oposite corner was to far so i switch to Mesh bed leveling And fix My problem do You have any ideas of what is the problem?
Thank you ao much!
this has solved a problem, thank you. Is it possible to do this with the touch screen part of the tft35 v3?
I just added a piece of glass under my pei sheet. Since the 9 point mesh got totally ignored and there really was mesh data stored in the ender 5 but both8ng seemed to help
Im using ender 3 with stock board. I keep getting error on compiling. I think the memory maxing out that why its failing to compile. Any work around this?
Hi, Michael, thank for very good explanation video, i have question, what it's for setting that your printer made the first test - nozzle clean line in the corner of the printbed?! It's gcode setting in slicer sw, or it's setting in marlin?! Thanks.
what is the z end stop doing while the bed levelling is performed? i mean if its clicked and you need the nozzle to go down a bit to get it to where it needs to be what happens ?
So I am in a position to where I may consider manual mesh bed leveling but I feel there needs to be a good starting point...consistency in how the bed is attached to the frame. With the good ole Ender 3 setups most people use the yellow springs as I to have done for a few years. Some have recommended silicone mounts, what is your opinion on the best route to take to secure the platform prior to manual mesh bed leveling?
How to turn on this feature for Ender 3 v2?
I prefer straight bed. In nex lt build, 1/4" thick plate flat bed is inevitable.
I have a question after storing the mesh valuies on the eeprom is it safe to just the M420 S1, and send the print or do i have to change anything at all on the Origin Offset, im afraid to scrath my print bed to try it, cause when i see the preview on simplify3d the z adjustment is not shown at all on the preview of simplify 3d.
That was great! Please do a video on how to set the initial SK-Go home positions (xyz) correct - xyz home offsets etc... Starting from scratch (like on a new machine). It's really confusing. Thanks!
The rough concept is to set (X_MIN_POS, Y_MIN_POS), i.e. the homing/bumping point, be like (-5, -20) in the firmware or EEPROM, so the slicer will treat the bed corner (0, 0).
But I believe Michael will explain it better. ^^
How much does the flex bed sheet affect your temp settings for the bed? is there an adjustment needed? I have a tevo tornado Gold with the standard glass bed. thanks!
experimenting some buggy behaviour with MBL, with small value of Z increment, Z move doesn't respond to jog move.
So to be clear and know I'm doing this right, adjusting the bed height into the negative on a core XY (Ender 5 here) you will actually be putting more pressure onto your z home switch? Since the bed moves up and it has to be at home level for the first layer youll actually be slightly adding more pressure to you z axis home switch even though its already activated?
I keep getting an OpenOCD init Failure when trying to upload. Anyone else have this issue?
hi mike so i have an ender 3 v2 and i installed the cr touch to make prints better but it would seem im stumped as to getting it to print again now i installed the silicone bed mounts and a pei sheet but i cant seem to get it to work like it did stock now please if you could reach out
Do we need springs with mesh bed leveling? I figure we can use the mesh to account for the differences. You would just need to square the bed and set the endstop at a proper height. Any opinions on this?
would it be possible to physically level the bed using a filler like JBWeld or something? or would that impact bed heating?
My mesh bed leveling isnt being saved on my skr mini e3 and neither are my e steps
The Z fade option can be a problem if you print threads!
Thank you for this tutorial! After having some serious bed leveling issues i implemented this on my Tarantula Pro. First layer adhesion is now a piece of cake! (On a standard bed with alcohol/glue layer).
In the video the amount of grid probe points is set under #if either(...) (4:41) But MESH_LEVELING is not mentioned under the IF statement, so this variable can't be declared at this point.
Nice catch. Thanks to you I was able to find the correct variable. It's GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
@@gonzaloverussa2978 Glad i could help.
does it matter, during Meshleveling, if the Endswitch triggers?
Michael, I think you made a mistake in the video at 4:40 putting GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5 under AUTO_BED_LEVELING instead of under the MESH_BED_LEVELING section? Thanks
Thank you. I've been trying to learn Marlin and could not figure out why on earth you would change that instead of the options under mesh. He also failed to mention the "RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28" option in these videos which stops the mesh from getting disabled after returning to home. Very frustrating to problem solve if you aren't experienced in Marlin....
Do you happen you know how to adjust MESH_INSET? I'm trying level it away from the edges where my bed is significantly higher than my print area. So far I haven't had much luck adjusting this but I'm not sure what unit the default value of 10 is and I'm afraid to get too aggressive with it. I couldn't find a good description on the Marlin site.
@@JJFX- You're most welcome. Sorry, can't help with the MESH_INSET....
I a bambu lab p1p with a 0,5mm dip in the middle. Should I leave it to the auto bed leveling to compensate for it, or will I see improvements in print quality if I fix the bow with tape or something?
What about pressing a few drops of epoxy resin under a glass pane so that you have a perfectly flat glaze onto which to lay a flat printing medium? wax the glass up, put the epoxy on the aluminium, do a sandwidch, and wait...:Either that or using ink to mark out the irregularities and sanding them with a sander until the ink covers all the bed...
Do i need to replace z limit switch I removed when installing bl touch?
What if the dip in the bed is below where the Z endstop is, but if I lower the z end stop or raise the bed, the nozzle will crash to get to the first point.
Should I be setting a negative offset for the endstop? so the machine knows end stop is negative 1mm instead of 0? Thanks,
My Ender 5 Plus came with BL touch pre-installed and it's enabled in the g-code ("M420 S1 Z2") but I still don't get even results. :(
Hey, i just had manual mesh bed leveling (along with a fresh firmware) installed in my Ender 3 pro. (Thanks to your other video!)
Mine takes measurement only at 9 spots on the bed. Can i change it to 25 like in this video or is it printer specific? I had the exact opposite bed warp, i have a bump in the middle of the bed.
The 8 out of 9 manual mesh leveling spots are almost at the edge of the bed, only the center spot hits the bump.
could someone tell me how far bl touch should be from the bed?
Nice video, I noticed at 2:30 in the video, you show an ender3, with direct drive, where did you buy/make this. Do you have a video on that, thanks a lot
i mesh finish but when run it axis z no operation thank much
try using JB Weld, squeegee the epoxy with a 4" wide flat painters putty knife
Great video but, after you make changes in the firmware, you simply state to just re-compile and load the firmware. How do you re-compile the firmware?
You had to level corners first, and set LEVEL_CORNERS_HEIGHT to 0.1 in config.h => no need to touch BED Z. (0.1mm is the thickness of a paper)
Can you explain in a video or here on how to get a mesh bed level on CR6 with ABL? I am using pronterface hooked up by usb to my windows laptop. I'm a NOOB btw.. TIA!
Where can I find the X test file that is shown in this video :)
Remove your bed springs and put in solid bed mounts and apart from inconsistent thermal bed expansion due to differing ambient temps your bed level should stay pretty consistent for longer.
I actually purchased the silicon blocks and I found them a pain to use. You still need to get your bed close to level before using the mesh levelling and I had to squash a couple of the silicon blocks down a lot to get it level it was a real pain, went back to yellow Springs no issues since
can this be done on the cr10 s version/
Should the bed leveling option always be on? It turns off automatically on mine. I have put the m420 S1 in cura
thank you teach me many thing
Could you possibly include where to find these magical firmware fixes for a newbie .Sorry I'm 70 have no problem with assembly and mechanical setups but once you mention comment this complie. That I'm lost tks for listening
Hi Teaching Tech, hope you can help me as I am completely newbie, watching your tutorials one by one, now this one here may sort my problem but the question is where in cura 4.1 I need add this line in g code, btw have u any recommendation on g code for e3pro with skr mini e3 v1.2, really would be cool if you can help struggle with this printer almost a month and still no luck
Can anyone help me out? I wanna use pronter face and make bl touch manually probe any spot I want. (Specifically) over the knobs and try to make the z axis coordinates height with every corner. Ei: probe goes over corner keeps probing till i get the desired number I want. I click the knob to resume and it does it for every corner
I have just managed to update my copymaster 3d 300 to 8bit marlin 2.1.2 and I noted the bed leveling menu which until now, I didn't know how to use especially as it it leveling with a cold nozzle.
I also saw "Tramming" which I will have to look up.
As I have the bed leveling menu and I didn't change my marlin files, I assume it is ON by default in 2.1.2 ?
Thanks for some great videos.
I updated the software using one of your past videos.
Subscribed...
oh man I've had nothing but trouble since doing this :/
Recently flashed firmware to Marlin, and saw this and thought it would improve things (not that I was having any problems). And now I can only get proper squish in the very centre of the bed.... Any ideas?