Marlin Unified Bed Leveling - How To - Chris's Basement
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- Today we tackle Unified bed leveling in Marlin. It's a little more advanced way to level you print bed then the other options.
00:00 Intro
01:10 Marlin Config
07:16 Pronterface
18:44 Three Point Level
20:36 Conclusion
Link to the Marlin website:
marlinfw.org/
UBL info page:
marlinfw.org/docs/features/uni...
Mesh creation info page:
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G026.html
Arduino IDE:
www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
Pronterface:
www.pronterface.com/
Toms test print:
www.youmagine.com/designs/bed...
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Chris I can't say enough about how much this has changed my printer. I got a new inductive probe and an SKR Mini E3 V2 and have been fighting getting the bed leveled. Even with an automatic 25 point probe before each print I was struggling to find the right height on my not-flat bed. I followed your instructions and the very first print nailed the first layer with no intervention from me. This has truly made a huge difference for me. Thanks for putting this together.
That's awesome to hear, I am glad it helped you.
Chris, as always an excellent tutorial ... I have used your tutorial of bi-linear leveling and never failed. Keep up the great work !
Thank you! Great to hear it worked!
Chris, all I can say is "Wow!" Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Wow!
Thank you for watching! Glad it was helpful!
@@ChrisRiley Hi thanks I resolved the problem
LINE 1264 #define MESH_INSET 1 I changed (1) to (46) bacause when I let (1) I only get 55/100 point // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed
I tried 35 and I get 90/100
So to get 100/100 I set line 1264 MESH_INSET TO 46
#define MESH_INSET 46 //46=100// //45=99// //35=90// // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed
But some of points (87/100 - 88/100 and 89-/100 are out of the bed (behind) the prob d not touch the bed
This is one of the most if not the most comprehensive guide for UBL that I've seen. Thanks a ton! They should include this video to the marlin documentation!!!!!!
Thank you! I was actually thinking about doing an update video.
Always top quality work Chris! Glad to have you making these videos.
Thanks a lot Benjamin!
Ive been fighting this on my second sv01 for months. Found your tutorial, and it is simply amazing how you go step by step, so no guess work needed. THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Glad it helped!
I regularly come back to this video if I need some help troubleshooting and/or re-leveling. Can't say enough how great this walkthrough is.
Thank you
Same! I've been here at least a dozen times :)
I have a sovol SV03 and no other tutorial has helped me better than this one. I'm fairly new to 3d printing so I couldn't figure out why my prints were doing so bad after I left for a while. Thank you very much!
Great to hear!
This is one of the best videos I have seen in a while! Your tutorials are always fantastic:)
Sweet! Thanks Thomas!
your a genius, fired my printer up after not using for a year or more, and have spent two days of frustration, then found your video again. Thank you sir!
Glad I could help
You see chris, this is why the community needs you. You're the only one that I'm aware of that breaks down marlin in a such pleasing way. Easy to follow and covers all the scenarios.
Thank you
Thank you!
I just had to comment on how appreciative I am for your effort on educating us about 3d printers. You have got me through some hard times with setting up my printer. Little did I know the deep waters I was entering when I upgraded my ender 3 pro motherboard from a silent creality one to the skr 1.4 turbo. I had no previous experience with visual code or g-codes etc. But watching your tutorials with your easy to understand method of teaching has helped me sooooo much. I still have a long way to go but I'm starting to understand this stuff now and it isn't as daunting as when I began. Thank you.
I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching
Back in 2016 or so I was watching the Marlin GitHub issues and PRs daily. As I recall, Roxy was one of the key developers on this feature, and it was great watching the progress. I moved away from having a printer that used “straight” Marlin, so never got a chance to test the working version. Very impressive to see it all come together.
Yeah, it's kind of strange we have seen a lot on cartesian UBL. It's been around a while, but it doesn't seem that a lot of people are using it.
Some of the best 3D printing videos made! Added bi-linear to two of my printers using your how-to on the subject. May try this on my TEVO Tarantula that's due for a tear down. Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks Matt! The comments are much appreciated.
Cheers dude, followed your step by step guide and breezed through the config! It took me longer to update to the latest marlin bugfix then it did to implement this :D
Nice! Glad it worked for you.
As always you are the best at explaining and being great at the details. May have to give this a try - Thanks for the video.
Thank you! Good luck on your setup.
Gr8 job in keeping us informed, Chris.
Thanks Rodryk!
Hi Chris, just spent the last 2 hours playing with UBM, didn't know it even existed! thank you for the great content.
Great! Glad it was helpful!
One thing I noticed with the g26 command, after I g28 the print started from the centre of the bed (home location) how do I solve this?
@@uksmudgesmith Not really sure on that one, you can send it to 0 0 manually, g1x0y0
This video amazing! I was able to take some parts of it away and finally get UBL working, thank you!!!
Excellent!
Wow! Amazing video! I'm so glad i found this :D i've been stuck with issues with UBL until now :D Thanks! Keep up your great work!
Glad it helped!
You are just amazing. I was struggling with UBL your video solved my problem.
Awesome! Thank you!
So I'm replacing my stock 8 bit controller with a 32 bit controller tomorrow...and I was preparing a marlin .bin for it...thank you so much for making sure that I do this project on *another* day. I'll stick with bilinear for now! Thanks! This looks amazing and stupid-easy once it's set up...but I really appreciate your video letting me know how many steps alone it is just to get running. I'm sure I'll be able to do it when I'm ready though and I've bookmarked this and subscribed just for how easy to follow this was!
Thanks for the sub, good plan on holding off on UBL for now. It has changed a bit, I plan on making an updated video.
Thank you Chris, amazing intro to UBL.
Thank you Alen!
Like always Chris, Nice job explaining it all.
Thanks Sergio!
Dude! Very nice tutorial - thank you so much! To me, the most important part was which GCode commands should be set in my slicers to load the mesh and compensate it just with eventual tilt changes. Thanks!
Thanks! I am glad it was helpful.
Superb tutorial as always Chris. I'm still using Bi-linear levelling on the Borg, which is working perfectly. Will probably give this a try at some point too though.
Thanks Spike! Yeah, give it a try for fun. Most of the time you probably don't need it, but it is interesting.
Perfect timing on this, Thanks Chris
Awesome! You're welcome!
Was just looking this up last night!! Your awesome!!!
Nice! Hope it helps!
Chris, thanks for this very good intro to UBL. I had it once activated but 'Real men don't read instructions' and didn't knew what to do, so back to bilinear ;) Just set it up on my Sapphire Pro (SKR 1.4 Turbo).
I hear that! LOL, glad it's working for you.
Chris, thank you so much for the video! I've upgraded my printer and had a hard time configuring it. Was able to resolve all my issues with Z calibration.
Glad it helped! Thank you!
awesome video Chris thanks, I have been using a BLTouch and Bi-Linear leveling. This is going to help me move to the next step!
Thanks! So glad it will help you out.
Thanks again Chris, this looks really useful, I'll try this one out on my ender 3 when I can get around to switching out the board, thanks again
You're welcome! Let us know how it goes!
Thank you Sir. This is the one and only usefull tutorial on the internet.
Thank you
I’ve done a lot of stuff with my printer thanks to you man ! Thank you ! :D
Glad to help!
Thank you for showing us how to do this. It is very helpful! Thumbs up!
You're welcome, glad I could help.
Wow Chris what a video. My ender3 will never be the same again 👍🏻
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Very detailed Chris - Thanks!
Thanks Ron!
Great Video! I’m gonna use your guide and make the switch from bilinear to unified tomorrow on one of my printers. Looks like fun! Thanks!
Thanks Mike! Give it a shot and let me know how it goes.
I can't figure out why you don't have more subscribers than the typical Toy Boy maker channels...keep up the great "to the point" honest content.
Thanks man! We are getting there.
Nicely done. One of the better vids I have seen recently. Look forward to seeing you at MRRF 2019. Please look me up!
Thanks! If you see me first please stop me, happy to stop and talk.
Thank you Chris, awesome job
You're welcome! Thank you!
This was very helpful! Thank you for making this video!
You are very welcome!
FYI the slots for meshes are numbered from 0 to 6. 0 being the first slot. Thanks for posting the video, very nicely done.
Cool, thanks.
Thank you, man! I can't understand how it works until I saw your video. Maybe it can fix my delta.
Nice! Glad it was helpful.
@@ChrisRiley Yes it was! Today I'd flash new firmware and did UBL> Result - almost perfect. Only my Z probe offset was too low) The only difference is to calibrate your delta before performing G29. Otherwise, that will not work.
thanks Chris for the great detail video and to the point
You bet!
That helps a lot, thanks Chris for sharing :)
Thank you Michel!
I found interesting thing about my anycubic kossel. It has fixed bed, so it twists different with different temperature. So I decided to calibrate ubl for each type of filament. And then you can use filament override options in prusa slicer. Works great.
I did delta calibration on cold bed. Then I preheat it for 65 / 75 / 95 Celsius and made a UBL for each one. Difference between 65 and 95 Celsius is really visible.
Great idea, nicely done!
Well done. When I finally have time that is added to my list.
Thanks James! It's not easy, but somewhat interesting.
Looks alright. Nice progression in really dealing things in on a printer. Are you planning on keeping the Rambo on Log?@@ChrisRiley
@@ZebraandDonkey As of now, yes, until I can't get around the lack of pins any longer.
Just found this. Perfect, thanks.
Glad it helped!
Great video - very informative and useful!
Glad it was helpful!
This was a great video. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Again: Great stuff! Thanks a lot!
Thanks Ewald!
thanks chris, obviously working on this a precursor for this would be to make sure you have got your bed size correct in marlin and on the printer as this might be different from physical bed size. 🙂. currently working on that
Definitely! Thanks and good luck with your projects!
Great tutorial to get started! :)
Thanks!
Really nice and helpfull tutorial! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you ! Great tutorial !
Thanks for watching!
Awesome tutorial.
As usual 😀
Thanks man! You bringing the clone MK3 to MRRF?
@@ChrisRiley Unfortunately no.
Work has been crazy lately.
Not been able to do much of anything lately.
Looking forward to, hopefully Walter's mrrf videos.
Do you think you might have mrrf videos?
@@mapper0638 I am sure we will come up with something. :)
Thank you. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Great video brother.
Thanks man!
Great stuff! Thanks a lot!
Thanks Jose!
بجد انت انسان محترم جدا ..... وبجد استفدت منيك كتير
شكرا لك
One of the best tutorials I found about this topic, congrats, however there is a small note, pre bed leveling is required or you can face that sensor is not able to capture all points on the bed during process. Regards
Thanks David. I did find it has to be pretty level before it will work well.
Best explained. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
THANK U SOOOOO MUCH !! THIS VIDEO IS REALLY HELPFUL :3
You are very welcome!
Thank you Kriss 👍
🙂👍
Great video, altough - the G29J - I found to mess up the actual saved mesh by "adjusting" to the same number for all spots (visible after print with G29 T). So I use G29 L1 G29 A (just to be sure) - and then my first level takes benefit of that long G29 bed level we do in this process. I run Marlin 2.0.x.bugfix, might be something who differs from 1.1.9
Interesting, thanks for letting me know. I might run through this again when 2.0 comes out with an official release.
@@ChrisRiley Seems it made an average hight valid for all point - at least on my build (recent version) - Not tested if it does this on 1.1.9
I love your videos.. its just geeky enough for the tech guys and simple enough for the noobs..
HOWEVER : I would like to see more stuff t the end.. how to fix things when it goes wrong.. like on this video .. if your inset is not right and the props tries to prob off the edge of the bed or if you have a large gap between your BLTouch and the nozzle and it can't reach all the spots.. G29P3 GUESSES don't work well when things like that fail.. and its tough to fix from octoprint..
also some vids on when octoprint goes haywire... cause octoprint modifies geode on the fly and streams it to your printer kinda like clipper . and Canada a bunch more tuning of footprint to do.. (like if your octoprint bed size is different than your Cura settings.. and octoprint clips edges square when you actually have bed space ( full bed problems) or plugins that show you the bed visualizing and it actually mods the code..
Thanks Paul, sure, I can work on some stuff like that.
Hey, :) Thx. Great contribution.
Thanks!
Quality content, I've read that you should use an uneven number of probing point as it is better for some reason, Quess it doesn't go trough (0;0) otherwhise and marlin doesn't like that or something.
Thanks! Hmmm, interesting, I will have to look that up.
Chris, couple of more comments. One thing to look out for is if you set Z safe home, you will prime in the middle of the bed when you use G26 G10. So you should first do G28, then G0 X0 Y0 Z2, then do the G26 P10. Also, my print looked like cr*p because I am using a bowden setup and I don't think Marlin does retraction unless you have firmware retraction setup. I changed to firmware retraction and the G26 test print looked much better.
You can actually set all that with the G26 command in line if you wish marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G026.html.
Hi Chris,
Very clear instructions !! Congratulations and ... thanks!
What catch my eye too was the magnets under the front edge of the heat plate. Clear for me, it's not an "industrial" made heat plate. Could you supply some info (heat plate type, magnets type, adhesive type, solution reliability)? Maybe a short video?
fusi (Romania)
Thanks! I just grabbed this sheet off my MK3 for this video. It's this sheet here. shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/216-spring-steel-sheet-smooth-pei.html I just used some small magenets I had. These I think. www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Refrigerator-Magnets-Premium-Brushed/dp/B07B3SDRCP/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=round+8mm+magnets&qid=1579298022&sr=8-4
Thank you so mutch!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I setup ubl. Worked great. And then realized I wasn't done setting up stuff... So i had to flash agaih... And now I gotta do it all over again! Lol
Doh! It happens to all of us.
great! thanx a lot man!
You're welcome!
Ty for this!
You bet!
great video! Have you ever seen the G26 test pattern happen well off center (each pattern is 50mm from the left edge and runs off the right edge)? It's happening on 2 of my printers and I'm not sure how to fix it.
I have seen it do some crazy stuff. Try lowering the data points and see if it changes anything.
Always appreciate your tutorials.....I always learn a lot and keeps me playing with my printers! Curious on the print head on your printer....are there files so I can build that setup for my machine?
Thanks! Yes, those are all build from the Prusa MK2s stl files form the Prusa website. www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/
I'm dying to know, if I set my Z offset in the firmware, do I need to set the same offiset in my slic3r, or do I leave slic3r's z offset at zero?
Set it in firmware and leave it 0 in your slicer.
How you doing Chris keep up the good work my friend
Thanks Paul!
Hey Chris, awesome video!
It helped me a lot setting up UBL on my SKR v1.3.
I am struggling with the mesh editing feature though: when I try to edit points via the LCD menu the carriage doesn't move in the pattern your's does on log (from left front to right and then one row over) but instead some different location often outside my print area... crashing... I homed before editing with G28 and have RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 enabled.
I also have Z_SAFE_HOMING and ENABLE_MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY enabled with a BTT Full Graphic Smart Controller Display.
Regarding the erratic pattern one more thing: when I issued the G29 P1 command (after G28 of course) it didn't move in a spiral pattern as described on the marlin documentation but in a very random pattern. It completed though without the two rows the probe just couldn't reach. I populated those with G29 P3 and checked with G29 T - like you explained - and everything looked ok... but trying to edit these extrapolated points via LCD did not work (the others also didn't...). Furthermore moving my nozzle via pronterface close to the points in question and issuing a G29 P4 initiated the edit menu on the lcd but doing a G29 T after that showed the brackets in a different row (same column) at least close to where the probe sits and not the nozzle... do you have a clue what might be going on?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks! I am not really sure what is going on there. I think somethings have changed. I need to run through it again, maybe it's time for an updated video.
Very nice I'll give it a try :)
Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley I'm currently running the bilinear following your tutorial,
im gonna try this one next week. anyway, thanks for the time and explanation :) my first layers are currently nerd porn because of the bilinear tuturial... thumbs up. keep it up..
@@ebcradioshow lol, awesome!
Another excellent video! I followed the process (including buying and fitting an inductive sensor) and got all the way to compilation phase to discover the CR-10 controller is ~64kB short of program memory for these features!
Dohh.
Can you recommend a controller I can fit instead that works well with the latest Marlin release for UBL?
I can sort out a separate display/encoder if the stock CR-10 unit is incompatible.
Thanks,
Alex
Doh! For the money I think the MKS Gen L is probably the best for something like the CR10.
Thanks Very Helpful , On a side note after doing this i could not get my printer to extrude out the rite amount, found out that enabling eprom overrides the steps per mm in Marlin, had to send the steps per mm in the terminal and then save it to eprom, if that makes since, still new at this, thanks KH
Thanks! I have been caught by that a couple of times, now I always run a M502 then M500 just in case.
Thanks Chris, quick question, in the beginning you mentioned to set Endstop_Inverting to "TRUE". If my printer is already working properly with "False", do I still need to change them to "True"?
No, as long as it works, you're good.
Hey, Thanks for the great video - actually never got that far.
but I still face an odd issue... so when I do G26, the pattern is printed just fine, but if I start a print directly after that, the auto leveling is not kicking in... even though it tells me that the mesh is loaded and Bed leveling enabled... do you have any idea?
cheers,
Matthias
I think you will still have to activate it with some sort of G29 command in your start Gcode. I can't remember them off the top of my head at the moment, but in the video I think I used a quick 3 point level to get it working.
LOL.. I use TLL for leveling..... Thom Llama Leveling . LOLOL . ;) awesome vid as always Chris
lol, thanks Thom, I am pretty fond of the eyeball method my self.
Great video! Many thanks. I wonder why dial indicators are not used more by 3D printing geeks? The Chinese ones are cheap, accurate, and can be temporarily held in place by a magnet. Their use (on a temporary basis) would eliminate the extra electronics for a leveling probe. More importantly this would reduce print head weight. Also they would work with any print bed material.
You know, I have one and I have tried it many times before with mixed results. It would be nice to find a smaller one that could be easily integrated into the build. I might have to look for one and give it another go.
When you do the manual mesh editing (at point 4,1), do you use your paper underneath the nozzle to adjust the nozzle to the bed? I mean, when I set the Z offset using M92 it has been done by placing a piece of paper under the nozzle.
I know this sounds still, but you will need to have you Z offset adjusted before you start. This is the only way I have found to get good results.
I would suggest not heating the nozzle, or if you do, remember to pull out the filament first. I didn't think of it at the time, and ended up cooking the PLA inside, as G28 P1 takes a looong time (especially if you turn heaters off and on between probes), and ended up with a massive clog. And G26 P10 for me just squirted on site and started the pattern (I have safe Z homing at the bed center). Otherwise, the best UBL guide out there (although I'm still not clear what G29 P2 and G29 P4 are really supposed to do). The Marlin guides still need some improvement to be more clear.
Great tip! I hope this becomes a more straightforward process at some point.
Those auto fill values are wild and crazy from .190 to 1.90 on the next grid space. That bed must be made of gravel. ;)
LOL, pretty much.
Hi Chris, I set up UBL with the help of your video and have a question. I had to remove the print bed on my printer and figured I would run a G29 again to see if I changed the mesh. I had to refamiliarize myself with the parameters and found it has a K parameter that is suposed to compare a current mesh with a saved mesh. The Marlin website only shows the syntax as [L]. I can't seem to figure out what that means and they don;t give an example. Do you know how to specify comparing a newly acquired mesh to the mesh in slot 2?
Thanks for all your great videos.
I'm not sure, somethings have changed and I still need to revisit this.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply Chris,
I’m pleased to know that my questions are getting better.
I saw a bug report on GitHub about G29 K (kompare) but it was abandoned without resolution. It would be great if they would include an example because the problem is probably a syntax error.
Keep up the good work!
Is there a way to use the Octoprint Bed Visualizer plugin to have your printer take the values measured and adjust your Gcode to account for the errors in your bed? I have a warped bed and would like to use the bed visualizer to automatically adjust my Gcode to change the Z height to create a more accurate print that accounts for the errors and makes a near-perfect first layer print....
I know you can use the full graphics display for this, but I am not aware of a plugin to do it. There might be something out there.
Is there any way to change the z probe temp before a print with gcode instead of in the firmware? I usually print PLA at 205/50 but I’ve been running some high temp PETG lately at 270/70.
Hey man, you mean for the g26 test print? If so, yes do G26 Bxx Hxxx
Do you have a link to the level print you did towards the end? Tom's Level Print or something like that.
Here you go: www.youmagine.com/designs/bed-leveling-tramming-paralleling-test
question: after first G29 T max delta was like 1,6mm, then at 14:33 after next G29 T is was way less, like 0,8mm - have you levelled the bed manually ?
I did level a couple of times to get it corrected. I ended up with around .2 in front and .8 in the back to get the ABL to complete successfully.
Chris, nice video. Your videos are always well done and very helpful. You mention setting MESH_INSET to avoid the perimeter of the bed. Would this already be addressed if you use MIN_PROBE_EDGE which works across leveling types?
Thanks! Well, I don't know. My limit was set to 0. I would have to test it, it might calculate one, then the other.
Hi Chris - amazing guide thanks so much. I had a look through the Marlin docs and found the variables P5 and P6... on first glance they appear to do the exact same thing as the Z-offset. Are you able to elaborate on the purpose of these two? Is there an advantage of using these over the z offset or vice versa? Cheers
I really don't know at this point. They have changed this up since the last video. I intend to do a new video on UBL soon.
@@ChrisRiley Looking forward to it. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Hi Chris ! I've learnt a lot with your channel, especially understanding Marlin FW . However, i've followed every step on this video, i cant have a decent G26 Mesh, Once i finish fine tune all the points, and when i do a G26 to validate that bed leveling, the extruded material ( PLA @210°C on HB @45°C) is higher on the right side than the left side, do you have any tips and tricks regarding this problem ? also when i print the validation final validation pattern ( the STL one you use at the end) give me same result, larger on one side than the other ... How ever, the problem is not as visible as it is when i use Bilinear leveling ...
This is the downfall of UBL, it sounds silly, but you have to be almost level before UBL will work. Run bilinear from the terminal and look at the map, try to level out your X as close as you can. Once that is really close, try UBL again.
hey chris I have just installed an SKR in my prusa mk3s and updated the firmware with UBL enabled...before you configure UBL how do you configure the Z offset? Im used to doing this with an ezable but not sure with a pinda..thanks
That is a flaw in UBL. It is easier to setup bilinear and set the offset, then move to UBL.
Great video. Daft question. Do I need to run the three-point level before a print? Or do I simply load the stored mesh and ensure UBL is enabled? Thanks!
Thanks! Now I don't remember, LOL, I don't think you need to run it, it should have it saved if you just load the mesh.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris!