Faulty Kenwood Chef Mixer - What A Nightmare! | Can I Fix It?
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- A faulty Kenwood Chef with an unusual fault. It seems to start working then slowly grinds to a halt. Let's see if we can find the problem and hopefully repair it.
I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things.
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#electronics #electronicsrepair #repair
Kenwood chef not working
Faulty Kenwood chef
Fixing a Kenwood chef speed controller
Faulty Kenwood chef speed controller
Kenwood chef repair
speed controller repair
Yesterday I repaired my wife's beloved headphones, and I still feel good about it :) Thanks to UA-camrs like you for spreading the word that it's absolutly worth a try!
Thanks 👍and well done on fixing you're wife's headphones!
I don't get it, you are a humble man, you take on anything that has an, "Electronic Pluse!" Thorough in your diagnosis, you pursue every avenue when it comes to your way of analogy, out of all your videos, you've conceded defeat like 2 maybe 3 times,( Even then, odds were already against you, only you didn't know it until you tested your theories, components, and voltages, doing all you could with the exception of just replacing the device you were trying to fix) and yet, only 41,000 subs....ALOT of viewers are truly missing out on this channel!!! Thank you for all you do!
You are right. I hope the activity in the comments section helps drive traffic his way. I really don't understand how all of the algorithms work on YT. He deserves much more.
Cheers Sam, yes I still haven't figured out what the algorithm thinks is a 'good video' perhaps I should try doing makeup or minecraft 😂😂😂😂
Cheers Pixie 👍
@@BuyitFixit Now that I would like to see. 😁 Only if you also continue to fix stuff though.
Great persistence pays off in the end! I too am mystified why this channel is not getting the exposure it deserves.
That was very incredible diagnostics. You literally found a needle in the barn of haystacks
😂😂😂Thanks. We've just got a load of hay delivered in the barn, but I haven't found any needles yet 😂😂👍
I have been repairing for years everything that could be repaired, you were lucky with such a defect!!!
Yes took me a while to find the problem with this one, usually I'm a lot faster at finding, but also I don't give up easily 😂😂👍
After watching this amazing bit of detective work I had no choice but to subscribe to your channel. I became a ham radio operator at age 12 in 1953 and have tinkered with electronics ever since. I have never seen a resistor go bad without showing discoloration or outright burning. You were right there at 50:00 when you noticed the board and motor jump as you touched the leg of that resistor. That is what it takes to be an excellent diagnostician. Nice one. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to watching many more.
Thanks Bruce! Yes this one had my head mashed for a bit 😂😂😂 I think it was more luck that I poked that resistor than anything else.
Great job! What you encountered is a Flameproof Power Metal Oxide Film Resistor. They are ideal for high specification or technically demanding circuits. (e.g. kitchen will not go up in smoke, when mixer is overloaded) The resistive element comprises a metal oxide film deposited on a ceramic former. The element is protected by a flameproof coating that withstand overload conditions without flame or mechanical damage.
Thanks👍 and thanks for the info on the resistor 👍
As you probably already know, Fluke uses (used?) these in their multi-meters. They frequently fail just as this one here has - just open with no evidence. People, including myself have replaced them with "regular" resistors, but I try to use a NOS. Unfortunately, they aren't available from Fluke anymore. (well, the ones for my old meters, anyway. The meters I have experience with get older every year.)
@@excavatoree Remember the Fluke 25/27 very well 🙂 Still have one in my Fluke collection. (Military, dark grey one) Still today within spec 1% 😁 You can get the resistors at Digikey or Mouser
Ok, I have to add that one to my trouble-shooting repertoire. Visual inspection, measure some voltages, replace some suspected bad transistors, touch up soldering joints, then when all else fails, poke around with the meter leads and see if anything starts working again. Thanks for the tips.
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
WOW what a mess. I would of sent that out the open window. Good for you to stay with it until the end!
😂😂😂👍
good find . patience is a virtue
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
For burnt out resistors, measure the two parts. One part will hopefully give a reading. eg if ~2/3rds of its original length measures ~32kΩ and the other ~1/3rd is open circuit then it's a pretty safe bet that the original was 47kΩ.
For a completely open circuit resistor, cut it in half. One part should give you a reading, eg 500kΩ, so the whole thing would be 1MΩ. They fail at a single point, not along the entire length.
Just a simple bit of educated guesswork on the ratio you have that works and rounding to the nearest E24 value can really get you out of a hole sometimes.
I like #2. Possibly poorly formed in manufacturing? Something caused it to let go without any indication. Murphys Law ? Hummmm!
Great Tip! Thanks for that 👍
Why TF would you go down that rabbit hole when the colours are visible AND you have an identical intact resistor to measure & confirm....
You would only ever go down that route if the resistor was burned up or otherwise unreadable/un-measurable and you had no other way of finding the value so not relevant to this situation at all!
@@Awynn0i think that was his point
As Sid Waddell once said, "When Alexander of Macedonia was 33, he cried salt tears because there were no more worlds to conquer … [Eric] Bristow's only 27."
You'd feel like Eric did after that bloody nightmare of a fix, as in top of the world... Well done for sticking with it, great job.
When you were reading out that resistor colours I was thinking it can't be 1.3 gigaohm, it's a mixer not some sort of high voltage motor driver from a train or something.
I've never liked 5 band resistors, they're just a pain, why can't they put a mark on the 1st band, a dot like an IC, or something so you easily know which band to start with.
Thanks mate 👍Yes I've never liked 5 band resistors too 😂😂
@@BuyitFixitin fairness who'd of thought a resistor would bring down a machine like that.
Usually everyones money is on the caps going mental.
Just more proof that 5 band resistors are pure evil... 😂😂
The clue was that 47 is a preferred value number. 12 is, 15 is but 13 isn't.
@@twotone3070 true, but a dot or dotted first band would make things far easier.
I mean 13 may not be a standard value, but these days who knows what a manufacturer might have decided to chuck in the mix given they can get bespoke chips, caps, etc made in bulk for pennies
Excellent video that shows not all repairs are a quick part replacement
As I type this there's a f22 raptor fighter jet circling my house and rattling windows. It even sets off car alarms. The joy of living 1/4 mile from the air show.
Thanks
Thanks 👍 yes, sometimes you get a bit of a nightmare one like this. Hope things have quietened down with the air show now 🙂
The hall semiconductor you will find many of them in washing machines now to monitor the many speeds that the drum rotates during a wash cycle! Haven’t found any faulty yet! Enjoy your videos ! You must have the patience of a saint! Fraser😅
Thanks Fraser and thanks for the info 👍
Thank you for imparting your knowledge and wisdom I’m amazed at the diagnostic talents you possess I really enjoy watching your videos once again thank a million
Thank you 👍🙂
What a rabbit hole this took you on, how you manage to not swear at times is most impressive also nicely diagnosed and thanks for your videos they are always enjoyed. 👍
Thank you 🙂👍
Great job tracking the bad resistor down.
Thanks 👍Yes took me a while this one.
Thanks for the spoiler.... 😔😊
Sitting on the bench for 3 years? Dam and I thought I was a procrastinator. Your friend's friend will probably be shocked to see it back again.
Yes he was. I dropped it off a few days ago 😂😂👍
470K mains dropping resistors are a common problem ! they should always be replaced with multiple resistors to divide the voltage drop across each resistor to prevent failure due to specification breakdown limits being approached.
Thanks for that I've not came across this problem before 👍
Yep agreed, those resistors are not rated at 240v, so this one just gave up!
I've seen resistors in the hundreds of kiloohm range go bad many times if they have high voltages on them. They never look burnt. The 470k in the startup circuit of old switch mode power supplies was often the culprit. It is across ~300V DC all the time, even after the supply has started. So if the device doesn't turn on any more after a power outage or after it has been power cycled that was often the problem. You don't get those startup resistors in modern supplies anymore though, probably because of energy saving.
I've also seen resistors and other components crack internally from external heat and vibration in the lab. I couldn't find a visual indication that a resistor mechanically separated from the wire without scraping off the paint (lab class got boring between assignments).
Though entertained by the discovery, my instructors reminded me that we were using factory-reject components to learn on (because they are _that_ much cheaper, and challenging to troubleshoot; but mostly cheaper.) And weren't always only mislabelled and/or packaged.
It has made me a bit paranoid about forming a strain/vibration relief into components leads, and making certain that they gently fit into place without storing any bending strain - though I've never actually seen an example where it made a difference.
Interesting, I don't remember coming across this problem before 👍
"Ive seen resistors in the hundreds of kiloohm range go bad many times if they have high voltages on them. They never look burnt" But why do they go bad even though the current through them is well within their rating. A 470K resistor even with 300V across it is dissipating less than 1/4 W.
@@simontay4851 overvoltage, then arc track. the miniscule arc blows the high resistance open, or so I was once told.
@@simontay4851 That rating is for the electrical load; not including any mechanical, heat, or radiation loads from the environment or nearby components.
(An electromagnet with 'one' turn may not be as effective as one with a hundred turns. but with ten thousand times the current being applied... plus electrostatic repulsion ((edit:) and inrush current) ...)
Mechanical stress from {waste heat, or vibration, or the board (PCB) flexing, etc} is transmitted/coupled into the component. And in high-power situations the -magnetic reluctance- electromotive forces will cause the components themselves to push against each other, and move.
(Generally) The wire-leads flex to accommodate this mechanical motion, metal fatigue can introduce fatigue cracking and other wear without disturbing the paint/outerlayer(s).
(in the lab) Bending the leads too sharply at the component's body then soldering them tightly to the PCB (with excessive heat) caused the thermal-expansion (or contraction) to stretch/pull the components against the board when it cooled.
(in production) Machines/tools bend the Leads a short distance from the component-body so that any additional bending will (mostly) happen in the wire, as will any change in tension from/through the soldering/PCB.
(sometimes) An elastic adhesive is used to dampen vibrations/shock between the component and PCB. Particularly with heavier freestanding components (like capacitors/instructors) or fragile components like (crystals or diodes).
Although too sharp a bend does tend to concentrate flexing at the 'corner', leading to the lead to cracking/breaking off; There are lead/wire-forming tools that add bends at other angles to mitigate anticipated motion on other axis, position the component off of the board, and/or to make assembly easier with various footprint/hole patterns.
(in the lab) Some of my schoolmates also induced component failures using radiation sources. (Again,) I've never seen naturally occur 'in the wild' - ((edit:) unless you count, lasers, RF and crosstalk/signal-coupling) - so your mileage may vary.
I've experienced this type of problem on multiple occasions. Components looking good but reads open circuit. Thats why with smaller circuits such as in a mixer as this one, I tend to check All the components before anything else.
On a different topic: You said in an earlier video that someone mentioned "button wake-up function" idea on the Fluke multimeter. That was me (and maybe others) that commented that.
As always! Great video and great work repairing the unit.
Looking forward to your next video.
Thanks! 😊
Thanks and thanks again for the tip on the meter 👍
Well fixed! Crazy how it is the smallest most insignificant things that throw one the most! Damn resistor!! Thank you
Cheers 👍Yes one component fails and the whole show stops 😂😂
Another great video. I’ve done a few of these and R10 470k is a common fault, you don’t know how many times I shouted at the screen saying check the resistors.😂
😂😂😂Cheers Ian, I guess it's a case of when you've came across the fault before then you know. Hopefully people with similar issues will also know now after watching the video 👍
this must be an amazingly common problem with Kenwood Chef mixes. I’ve had two of these and both of these had this same symptom, so were disposed of.
If only I knew then what I know now.
I’ll get another one without fear now.
That's a shame, you would probably have been able to repair them now 👍
WOW, you were certainly having your patients tested on this one, Mick. But you did solve it, so, that's a cake coming your way then? Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍🍰🍰😂
I can't believe it, besides the triac, the capacitor, the potentiometer, the last thing I would check if I checked at all is that resistor without any traces of burning or cracking! Well done, congratulations.
Many thanks 👍Yes it was why it took me so long to find the problem 😂😂😂
Great fault finding! If that 1/4 watt is effectively across your 240 volt line, it is likely used above its voltage rating. If so, I would suggest replacing it with two in series of half the value to decrease the voltage stress on it.
Cheers and thanks for the tip 👍
I would never have found this one! Defective resistors without visible damage is something I didn’t think could happen …
Yes, I don't recall coming across it either. I think that's the reason why it took me so long to find it 👍
I thought it was a bad solder first, amazing resistor there
What a great thorough vid on investigating possible suspects. I have learnt so much from it too. Awesome job yet again.👍👍
Cheers Darren 👍
Superlative investigation, with unexpected diagnosis. Very well done. Should help me if and when my KC goes strange.
Cheers 👍
Not being negative but I was wondering why you didn’t look at the triac signals with a O’scope. You pulled a lot of components first without looking at VCC or PWM signals just curious. Also now after it is fixed it would be nice to look at the signals especially the feedback path with a O’scope to learn what the pic is looking for would help a lot of your viewers out for sure. As always love watching you fix stuff.
Thanks 👍I don't have a battery powered scope or isolation transformer.
A differential probe could work as well
I'll have to look into that 👍
I yelled unplug it mate the first time you went to test it😮
😂😂
I am rather surprised. I have found triacs to be the fault on many of this type of circuitry! Nice fix, Mick. Thanks.
Cheers mate 👍Yes I was rather surprised too! 😂😂
Bet the man who was going to have a look at it is glad he never after watching this, fair play mick you did it in the end, thanks for sharing.
Cheers 👍Yes I doubt he would have fixed it, unless he just replaced the speed controller.
Last year I stripped a washing machine to replace the bearings In the tub. And I'm so surprised it's still working I celebrate each year with a washing machine party. I have a drink over a long wash, but don't get to see whether it's finished till the morning.
I know that feeling. I repaired a Samsung ecobubble about 5 years ago which was the motor controller IC had failed(I thinking was my very first repair video before I started doing just repair videos). We are still using it to this day 😂😂👍
Cheers Mick had a really shite day today but saw your vid bounce into my inbox, got myself a cold beer and started to watch, blood pressure dropped 😂 just watching you dissect this thing, don’t even know f you fixed it as only 5 mins in 😂. Therapy for the stressed 😂 cheers m8 👍🍺
Hopefully you got to the end and wasn't as stressed as I was fixing the bloody thing👍😂😂😂😂
Sometimes it is the simple looking things that seem to be the most tricky. I never lost faith that you would fix it, maybe your friend of a friend will make you a cake as a thank you after that marathon fix.
😂😂Thanks 🍰🍰🍰
I agree, It seems like the simpler the circuit is the more difficult they can become to repair. Excellent job.
Good job!!!!
Lover your channel
Thank you so much!
The Kenwood Chef mixer can power a mincer (front section you pulled off first is where it attaches), and it can drive a blender, along with juice extractor (top rear above control knob). My parents had one a long time ago. If you wanted to thicken cream, using the whisk with the machine on full power, it did the job very fast.
Thanks 👍Good to know 🙂
Well done that was a weird one 👌👍
Yes, I've never seen a resistor fail without any marks before.
Nice catch. Good thing you probed the compnents again. Someone will be glad to get this one back, in excellent condition. In recent times I have been seeing more of your videos pop up in my feed. I am so glad I clicked the first time. Haven't regretted it since.
Thanks Neil 👍
I thought it was just me that had boards blister up or whole tracks decide to come off!
I have renovated/restored several classic vintage Kenwood chefs...they were so much more robust and employed a much more rustic speed controller!
I did a Kitchen aid a while back (video is on here) that had a much more robust and rustic speed controller 😂😂and it was built like a tank and in great condition for 36 years old!
What a fight! Great job sticking with it. I would have trashed filed it about 30 min in.
Thanks👍, and I did feel like that too! 😂😂😂
Nothing beats the feeling of a head scratching repair, especially when the outcome is a success, cool videos 👍
Thanks 👍🙂
Just think how many items like tv's, radios, mixers etc . are thrown away for the sake of a 50p component. What an utter waste.
Great job saving this one though.
Yeah complexity comes with many problems to troubleshoot when it fails
Yes seen it many times. I've had stuff from the dump before where it was only a capacitor or two, and the item was back up and running 👍
On a small board like this the first thing you do is measure the passives, particularly resistors and diodes the Triac is way down the list as a suspect as they virtually always fail open or dead short so the motor would just run full speed or not at all the only weird triac fault I've had was where you could turn it on but then it would never turn off until you killed the supply completely when it would reset.
I would have thought the Triac would have failed short too, however on the breadmaker video I did a few weeks before this, it was not the case and it had a very slight off reading.. Measuring every single resistor would be a bit of a pain as some would need to be removed to measure them properly.
You worked for that one, unusual fault, well done.
Cheers 👍Yes agree definitely worked for that one 😂😂
7:38 That yellow capacitor is an X2 capacitor used for AC line filtering and reducing EMI/RFI generated by the motor. Notice that it is placed across the line (X2) and in parallel with the motor. If that were a capacative dropper, it would be more likely one of those red polymer film caps in series with the micro controller that it is supplying
You read my mind
So the 5V is regulated just with two series R a diode and a zener?
@@glmnet Yes, in addition to an electrolytic smoothing capacitor pointed out at 27:32 you can pause at 19:41 and follow the traces he was pointing at in the video. The positive leg of that electrolytic capacitor goes to pin 1 of that PIC16C505 microcontroller which according to the datasheet is VDD or positive supply voltage
Yes, I just had a look back at the video and it does appear to be across the input supply. I missed that at the time as the layout was slightly confusing, hence thinking it was a dropper. I guess they just use the two resistors, rectifier diode, zener and the smoothing cap to power microcontroller.
Mick that was a nightmare, I initial thought was the brushes as it was giving the symptoms of worn brushes. I wouldn’t of believed it would of been a resistor, like you said there was no damage at all.
But in the end you got there Mick well done, you’ve done yourself proud there great diagnoses 10/10 😊
Cheers Gary 👍Yes I thought possible brushes or something too, or a capacitor..
@@BuyitFixit great minds and all that 😀
You are one determined man!! Fair play to you....
Thanks 👍🙂
Love this video as I do all of your vids. very informative. My take away from this video is that I will check all resistors where possible to try to find faults with those first as resistors seem to be the most common failure (not always of course). Thanks very much for this. enjoyed it 👌
Thank you for the feedback 👍
Certainly, a mixed bag, well done. Capacitor dropper, one diode, one zener and a cap, no expense spared for a micro supply in a noisy motor, SCR-based thing. Odd that the magnet seemed to spin free of the motor shaft.
Cheers Ralph 👍I think when the motor fan is fitted it presses against the silicone ring and stops it rotating 🙂
Great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
You were very patient with it as always. I would have gutted it and replaced electronics with some off the shelf speed controller and arduino
😂😂😂😂 Yes that would have worked too, although not everyone has the skills to do such a replacement.
Great vid. It's peverse really, the harder the job for you, the more interesting and enjoyable it is to watch. Amazing as always.
Thanks Bobbygeorge 👍
That's some shear determination awesome work.
Cheers mate 👍🙂
Amazing how much one open resistor can screw things up ! I work on pinball machines and an open diode or resistor can cause some very strange issues . Trying to work out which one is bad is also difficult. Your persistence and patience paid off on this one !
Thanks Jesse 👍
Well done Sir. Your fault finding is amazing. Your determination equally so.
Cheers mate 👍Yes this was a bit of a head scratcher!
18:29 at my house, it's probably fixed at this point.
Edit: i watched it all so I could complain about the derated triac, but you fixed it cool. This was something that doesn't typically happen, hats off to you for your perseverance. I wonder if this resistor would have jumped to life with freeze spray? Im not saying you should have tried that, because might have iced down rhe transistors and the PIC, but probably not a resistor.
😂😂😂Yes replaced the original triac 🙂 I doubt freezer spray would have done anything, but I never tried so can't say 100%
Well done Mick, great perseverance and you solved it 😁
Cheers Mike 👍
Well done! 👍
Cheers 👍
That was a good one, mate. The perfect resistor for the teacher in an electronic class.😊😊 poor students. Cheers mate.
Cheers mate 👍
Great video
Thanks!
well done,i've watch a lot of electrical repair videos its amazing how many times its the resistor
Thanks 👍Or a capacitor, or a diode, or a transistor 😂😂😂
Happened to me twice with two different amplifiers, one had one res open, the other whole batch of 100 ohms that were gone, visually couldn't tell, took me a while to get the culprits, too. cheers
Interesting! Cheers 👍
All that for a stupid resistor?? What a PAIN. Good job my friend. You have an amazing tolerance for BS. LOL
Yes, was a bit of a pain this one mate 👍Cheers Fred 🙂
Its such a shame that an expensive mixer would have been thrown away for the sake of a resistor costing just a few pence... Great video
Cheers 👍
Cracking good repair! Never seen a resistor do that trick. You may think about one of the cheap ESR meters for the caps. Or an old Heath or Eico to check breakdown voltage.
Cheers Tom 👍Yes I don't think I've came across that before either.
Nice fault finding really enjoy it. I thought from beginning it was the controller board
Thanks 👍Yes I thought that too, but when I noticed the other wires going to the motor I thought I'd better investigate just in case!
Well done 'Sherlock Ohms' you've earned my subscription! 'Watson' next?👍😂
😂😂😂😂 I'm not sure what you like but I've repaired quite a variety of items, everything from a coffee maker to a FLIR thermal camera, to a farmers square bale wrapper 👍
That was a beautiful nightmare. Not only changig the fuse and done.🙂
Cheers 👍🙂
The resistor that went open circuit is an aeronautics spec resistor. They don't show any sign of going open circuit. They are designed to be smoke proof so that they don't burn or smoke or make nonsense on an aircraft.
Yes I think someone else mentioned flame proof resistor. Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice one!!
I guess an ISO transformer on it and a scope trace on the emitters of those transistors would have been revealing
Anyway a proper test of such device as a whole involves a good cake hahaha
😂😂😂Thanks 🙂Yes I need to get an ISO transformer still. Either that or a battery powered scope for things like this 👍
Very nice job. I have a similar Kenwood mixer. Total nightmare! Well done!
Cheers 👍🙂
Well done, well worked out to get it working. Cheers
Thanks 👍
Good fix
But can i just say anyone who has an older version of the chef there is a kit available to turn your old version (A901 series) into this kind of motor, it is more powerful and has the pulse feature
Good thing to do to get brownie points from the cook in your life 😊
Done quite a few as it also makes a good present at appropriate times of the year
I have much respect for your electronic diagnostic knowledge and soldering skills. I do need to know why you did not use thermal camera?
Thanks 👍I only really use the thermal if I think it's a short circuit. The symptoms on this seemed like a capacitor or something as if you left it for a few moments (switched off) it briefly sprang back into life then progressively got worse and worse.
I've never got a round Tuit either.
another great fix, i salute you sir!!!
Thanks John 👍
You have the patience of a saint m8😂😂❤
Thanks, today's video (uploading currently) is worse 😂😂😂it was a bloody nightmare!
Yes 1/4W resistors are not usually rated for mains voltages. 1/2W or special high voltage are required.
You are the true defective detective!! Well done.
Cheers mate 👍
That was a really weird fault. A resistor in perfect condition that is completely open! Ive NEVER seen that before. Replaced lots of BURNT resistors that had failed but not ones in perfect condition. I replaced an open circuit 300K 1/8th watt startup resistor in a switch mode PSU that had been over heating. Replaced it with a 390K 1/2W resistor. Doesn't overheat now.
Yes I've not came across that one before either 😂😂👍
Great job. I am sure a few brain cells of your own were ready to blow trying to figure the cause...but you got it !
😂😂😂Yes, this one definitely gave me the run around!
If goolag allowed me to give you two thumbs up then I would. 👍👍
Great fix.
Thanks 👍👍🙂
Wow that one will throw the flour outta the bowl....Great fix , I usually don't check resistors either , unless they are scorched or look weird ..... Take Care Mon Ami
Cheers Cajun 👍
Nice one, mate. 👍
Cheers 👍
Pretty well made product from Kenwood. .
Yes, not as well built as the kitchen aid I looked at a few months back, (video is on here too if you didn't see that one).
good find, Mick, thanks for a nice vidio again.
No worries 👍Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
I always hate it when components just fail without a trace! Unbelievable that a resistor that only costs a few cents going open circuit can prevent this whole thing from working but i gues every component is there for a reason ofcourse
Yes, sometimes one component and the whole things doesn't work 👍
When I saw how little there was on the circuit board i assumed it was going to be straight forward :) how wrong can you be. Nice job.
You and me both 😂😂Thanks 👍
Nice:) looking forward to next saturday
Thank you 👍
Oh man, haven't I been there too.. Was bulding a ZX81 computer board and it did not work due to an open resistor - brand new. Of course the last thing you expect. And that too was a blue one 😀
Bloody resistors! 😂😂ZX81 now that brings back memories. Someone loaned me one for a while before I got my ZX Spectrum, with the 16K ram pack which made it crash if you breathed on it slightly!
Clearly nothing breaks in your neck of the woods?. I thought perhaps, because of my tardy comments, coupled with my draconian sense of humour , yet appreciation for your random, if not impossible multitasking diagnostic skills, you decided not to make more vids. Glad to have you back and ta for the content.
😂😂I've not gone anywhere, I've been posting stuff every week 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Sorry,must have missed some . No notifications.
Imagine your Xmas dinner spoiled because of a 2 cent resistor.
This one made you look all over the place.
Good elimination and good fix.
Cheers 👍That reminds me of one year when the heating element in our electric oven failed on Xmas day and we had to ask next door to cook our turkey 😂😂😂
Well done
Cheers 👍
Always love your videos 👍
Thanks mate, really appreciate it 👍
"Perseverance"👍 that's the word !!!
Yes indeed 👍😂😂😂😂
Super fix 👍 great video.
Cheers 👍
Well done, but I'm surprised it worked ok with a loose taco magnet. I used to repair washing machines and a fairly common fault was the motor doing a short rev-up then cutting out due to no tacho poses being sensed - caused by loose or broken magnet (should be firmly fixed to the shaft).
Thanks 👍I think when the fan is fitted it presses against that silicone ring stopping the magnet from rotating on the shaft.
@@BuyitFixit Ah yes I never thought of that 👍
Great video. I must say I am disappointed however that the final test to ensure a successful fix wasn’t the making of a loaf of bread, or at the very least homemade butter. 😂
Thanks 👍Unfortunately I didn't get the bowl with it to test it properly...