You will have some, especially if there is pollen or any resources in the comb. Old honeycomb or broodcomb old enough to cull out would be ideal. Also if it’s had BT or paramoth exposure it’s less of an issue.
I know its a 2 yo comment but drawn comb isnt the lure for moths its the pollen and bread. I have traps out all season along with baited 8 frame hives, all drawn out but no pollen
Your double medium box swarm trap than can be a “permanent hive”….is the BEST info I’ve seen on all the “swarm trap” videos I’ve see….thank you, I’m going with your plan with the LESS WORK….as I have lots of medium supers .
...thanks for the info... it's hard to explain why my brain is always buzzing...it's good to see others with a passion and passing it to a new generation... keep bee.lieving...and other bee puns. 🐝
Hello and thanks for sharing. In germany, it is not allowed to let hives open without bees in, but of course, we use this method also for catching swarms...( illegal) The original smell what bees are looking for is not the wax, but the smell of the wax moth. (The moth is the one who cleans up a hive after it was used by sick populations, and afterwards, bees can move in without getting in danger of beeing infected) Therefore I take a piece of breaded comb with eggs of moths on it in a honeyglass, close it and make a few holes in the lid. Now I place it in the swarmtrap. Bees can recognize the odor, but the adult moths can not get out. Once filled a glass like this, it will work the whole season.
That's interesting and sounds like it could have as much validity as anything! Somethings that people learn to use thru generational beekeeping is more important than any scientific paper!
Great information and video. I have had great success putting about 3-4 drops of lemongrass oil on a cotton ball and then putting the ball in a snack sized ziplock bag and sealing it up. It will last about 3 weeks or so before needing reapplication in my traps. In the past I have used to much lemongrass oil before by rubbing some on frames when catching swarms off of limbs and the swarm would not stay until i swapped out for new unscented frames. I learned that anything over 1 drop rubbed anywhere inside a box to catch a swarm off of a limb is to much and they will not stay in there.
The Duck was looking beautiful. Thanks for the great content. Sharing what you did wrong or just sharing how you are adapting is an incredible value to all of us!
There's no need to put swarm cent in the hive, spray it on a nearby tree and the bees will find the box if they're interested. I've seen bees find holes in my trees I had no idea even existed until they showed them to me, they know that box is on that tree you can bet on that.
I like the swarm trap stand. I have used treestands in the past but loved the idea of using recycled lumber. I appreciate you that you shared the improvements of carriage bolts.
I wave watched this video at least a dozen times.. there are only a handful of swarm trapping utube videos I can find. I gave it some thought .. your cut out from having 2 mediums to give you that void space .. if you put just top bars in the lower hive with starter strip you would not have to do a cut out.. I been waiting all year for swarm season to start in my area.. love your channel!! Greg in Canada
I appreciate it Greg. You're right, you could do starter strips and I bet it'll work fine. I'm not doing it because I'm not going to add another piece of gear just to trap swarms. I've got enough bees now that I can split and get to the number I want, so trapped swarms are a bonus not a necessity. That's why I wanted to make them less work and time critical.
Nathan, really great videos on swarm trapping. You have inspired me to read Dr. Seely's books and build 4-6 traps with last years equipment. Really like your video 1-2 weeks ago on checker boarding. I know your a busy man, keep them coming.
I don't have a bottle of swarm commander, so I take a Q-tip with a bit of lemongrass oil, paint a smear around the entrance and put it about 6" inside somewhere near the opening. Our weather near the end of April has been coolish for several weeks and I think once we get some pollen sources we might have some swarms coming out. I live in SW MT. Waiting for spring to take us from a goofy winter. Bob
Great and informative series. You saved me days of work and research. I really appreciate it. I grow lemon grass so I can make the oil for free and just put it in spray bottles. Not sure if lemon grass grows where you are but it is an extremely low maintenance plant. I cut up some in a mason jar, put in coconut oil, but the jar in boiling water and simmer for 2 hours and have a huge jar of oil. Just a thought if you'd like to cut more costs. Thank you so much for this.
We have a member in our Bee club that does NOT keep bees anymore and only sets out swarm traps. 2020 he said he had 32 swarms that he caught and sold. We haven't met in person in 2021 so he didn't report on his numbers. He set them up in the St Louis metro area.
I find leaving a cavity in the middle of the box helps. 3 or 4 Empty frames or a small amount of drawn comb on a otherwise empty frame. Swarm commander is amazingly effective
For all of my equipment that uses migratory lids, whether they are bait hives or colonies, I cut a piece of plastic from a feed bag to use as an upper seal/cover between the box and lid. When a sheet is cut slightly oversize on the length and width, it seals the whole top and prevents accumulation of propolis. It's free stuff, seals well, generally available and the bees have never chewed it. If you don't have animal or bird seed bags, someone you know does.
I followed Dr Seely's recommendations and have had good success. For clarity I use an 1 1/4 hole which is right at 2 square inches. It's square inches the bees monitor. I also put it up 2 inches from the bottom. Last year I had 75% catch in Eastern Indiana. 3 years ago I had 20%. Location is key, which comes from practice. Good vedios. Thanks
Great info. I appreciate your honesty on your failures and successes. Loved the bee checking out your new design @ 15:07. I built four more this week. Now I just have to get them out. I agree old comb is a great attraction. Best of luck.
Good luck this year. Swarm trapping is the highlight of my beekeeping year as well and it's so easy. Caught 4 last year. Was given 1. It took 2 medium boxes to get it home.
Great information buddy thanks for sharing. I am with you on putting some swarm traps on hive stands I am actually going to do the same thing this year with some of my swarm traps. Keep up the great work buddy I appreciate your videos.
I use the 5 gallon bucket system. Wax inside and around entrance hole. smoke inside and out. One frame of drawn comb. “one” squirt of swarm commander inside on the comb and one on the outside at the entrance. Hang by handle on limb. Lots of videos on bucket traps. Very cheap. Works great! With the swarm trapped. Put cork or tape over entrance hole. carry to your hive box with entrance reducer installed. Pop the bucket lid and smoke them. remove lid and spray bees with sugar water. Poor bees into their new home. Make sure you have a feeder inside. Your all set.
Really good information. I seen a bee checking it out already. I changed up a few things last year with the swarm commander i didn't spray it like they say to do i only put about a drop or so in the box and it stopped the hanging on the outside of the box. Hope you have great luck with the new swarm boxes. I have been seeing bees already looking at a few of mine. ❤🐝
The 4 holes in the baseboard is a great idea. Others neglect leveling the baseboard too. Not doing both may contribute to a buildup of water and hive cruft. The bees prefer the entrance low for a reason. The cleanup workers can push stuff [dead bees, hive beetles, ants, hive cruft, etc] out downhill far easier.
I put out traps yesterday. I caught one last spring on my hive stand in my honey production yard last year under hive with a freeman style bottom board. They grew fast and actually made honey and came out strong this year. I am using just a very small amount of lemongrass this year in my traps and use old frames in a deep box set up. I agree you need to get feed on them asap. Enjoyed the video. Good luck this year.
Nice series ov videos ! Thanks for your time and effort !!! It is highly apreciated. Many practical points here . Veri nice presentation. I am tring my first year traping. Already made few traps. Redy to go out tomorrow and instol them . Her in Australia still winrer, but flovers are allover the place...and temperature is getting above 10+++ in the night. I already missed 2 localbswarms last week as they fushed near our local pub ....into unknown direction. This year it looks 1 month earlier then last. ( mid Sept . ). I dont use boxes but use tubes made of some packaging material. Will wright up to date results. All the best.
Item 3. Not just drawn comb, but a preference for dark brood comb if you have it. Item 7. Completely agree with empty space below the frames, so a taller box is better in my opinion. Finally, I have also learned that with a spray lure you can spray too much or too often and cause the bees to beard and build on the outside. Question: how do you keep them from building comb in the feeder if you don't check them very often?
In my setup, I have a mold to make my own foundation, so rather than using lemongrass oil/swarm commander in my swarm traps, I put a few drops of lemongrass per pound of wax I melt down. When the wax cools and solidifies, the smell gets trapped in the wax much like a candle and doesn't fade even after months. At the same time, being diluted in wax keeps the smell from being overpowering. Bees seem to really like this set up, and rapidly build up comb on the foundation. If you have plastic foundation, you could also still use this trick when if you coat them with a wax layer. Can't say much about how effective it is compared to normal lures and preventing absconding, since I only have a few traps and haven't set up traps specifically for comparison.
Thanks for saying that, I might give that a try. I was worried about getting beeswax that had been too purified to add a good benefit for attracting bees. I may take it down to two drops though, or maybe even one at first, I'm good at blending things and attention to detail.
Thank you so very much for your videos, I am a newbie, that is I am new to beekeeping and trapping bees seem so very cool, I was just wondering how your latest set up to trap bees worked. I have watched the progression of your bee traps to this final bee trap. This set up seems like it would be the ultimate trap, and also convenient for the beekeeper. Please let me know how it works for you, or what you would change.Thanks Dan
Hi Dan, it’s been a slower swarm season overall this year, but I have trapped a few and it works fine. I do believe the empty space is attractive, but I don’t have time to check as often this year.
Great video! I like the approach of filling the empty space with frames to reduce the likelihood of a cut-out, but my big concern is stolen swarm traps. Your lost investment is going to be much higher with additional frames and a feeder. That is one of the reasons I went with 6 frame traps with empty space in the bottom. I will say, if the risk of theft is low, your setup is probably much easier to manage. I agree 100% on the telescoping covers. I had very little luck at the start of my 1st swarm trapping season. After seeing water in the boxes, I used bricks to weigh the tops down and ended the season at a 100% success rate. The very next season I upgraded to telescoping covers and had a success rate greater than 200%.
Hello from Australia and thank you for you generous time and sharing. Just to let you know that in Australia we are not allowed to used drawn combs in traps. Do you mind letting us know how this experiment with the new traps went for you this year? .
@@wombattallong1840 Hi mate ! where about you are catching ? In Australia or not ??? I already missed 2 swarms in front of the local pub ... last week. I can't believe it already started ! I expected( her in Adelaide) Later ... mid Septembre but ... not now.
Hi I am in the Southern highlands of NSW close to Goulburn. here the night are still cold 4-5C Days are warmer . I am planning to put my traps out mid September. Let us keep in Touch :) @@marinvidovic763
Your series on swarm trapping is very helpful. I don’t know if you are familiar with the plastic nuc boxes being used now but I wonder if you think they would work as swarm traps?
I am hearing what you are saying about open space causing them to build random come. I got around this by giving 2 built out frames, and all other frames wired with starter strips with both starter strips and wire well covered with wax. Worked a treat.
I’ve got 23 hives and would like to go into winter with 40 or 50. I’ve got 10 Caucasian queens ordered, so the rest of my increase can be splits or trapped swarms, either way.
Looks like you use the bottom board 3/4" side up, under the double medium boxes. Is that to get just a little more space below the frames or some other reason?
Put out 20 traps last year--caught 3 swarms; bears destroyed three with bees in them; 4 were stolen. All traps with bees had TWO entrance holes--half had Swarm commander, half Lemon grass oil. I only uses very small amount of lure...but local Mennonite woman drenches a piece of cardboard in Lemon grass oil and she caught 11 swarms. Two friends caught several swarms by just wrapping burlap around a pole and drenching the burlap with Lemon grass oil--this worked because they could check those poles daily when coming home from work. Side note--all three swarms I caught were placed within 7 meters of active railroad track. Maybe no bears on the tracks??
The best bait for a swarm of bees is wax, melted wax applied to the walls. Can be outside, can be updated periodically. For 30 years, this hobby has been tested. I conducted experiments when I met a swarm of bees on a tree in the forest. Search the Internet for a report on the research of German scientists, I lost the link, they conducted a large-scale experiment on catching swarms of bees, found out a lot of interesting things. Remember the main thing, the trap is not the main thing, finding a good place is the main thing, there are many factors in the search. Good luck.
@@jarnold8803 Sorry, I'm a Belarusian, we have a somewhat strained relationship with the Russians. But it doesn't matter. catching swarms of bees is an international hobby, though mostly European.
Thanks for another excellent video! Anxious to hear the results from the "hopefully" improved approach this swarm season. In particular I hope your effort reduction measures (e.g. spacer elimination, reduced scout trips) does not reduce your effectiveness. I know you will be evaluating the cost (time) to benefit (# of swarms) ratio to see if those specific changes are a net gain as well as the impact of the other changes (telescoping lid, solid bottom board, less swarm commander). This is like a suspense novel except that I can't read ahead to see how it ends :)
I made a 5 gal bucket one, I am planning on building a nice wood trap, but I don't have any bee stuff except wax and honey.. so It might work.. I put some lemongrass oil in the wax.. hoping it will last longer, and so far it is.. I am waaaaaaay north of you, so I am already planning for next winter, I have a swarm coming in May, and will start videos then. I made a top bar hive a few years back and plan on experimenting with other types, including jars on top of the bars..I will need a hay barrier for winter, this winter was a crazy amount of snow, so I may even need a better roofing system over the hay walls...
With swarm commander I'd probably use 2 squirts at most inside the hive. Even though we might not be able to smell it the bees definitely can. With lemon grass oil I put some on a q-tip dab the front of the hive with it then throw the q-tip in back of the hive.
What if you dipped one end of a q-tip into a vial of LGO or SC, put the q-tip into a ziploc bag, cut the bottom corners off of the ziploc, and put the bag either inside the hive or fasten it to the front? Might minimize your needing to spray the box with SC.
That works, I’ve tried it. But with drawn comb inside I don’t think I need any swarm commander inside. The LGO or swarm commander I think is more of a call lure to help them find the box.
Major warning if about 50 to 70 bees are just sitting on the entrance hole and once in 3 minutes one will leave and one will return these are only guard bees. No swarm will be inside yet, come back in one week and see if the workers are bringing in pollen. If pollen is being brought in the queen is inside.
I use cheap 1x furring strips on the bottom of my box extensions. They're not supper miffed about some light bleed at the bottom, and it allows good ventilation from the very slight gaps, as well as drainage. BEST performing trap for me is a 5 frame nuc, and a box extension with a 1.5" hole drilled into it, and said slats on the bottom, made of rough sawn wood. They favor it way more than my Advantech extension.
I live in town in Florida and within about 10 blocks there has been bees move into someones house or other thing. I am thinking of putting a trap to get them before they go to someones house.I want tosee if I can get some used equipment to put in my back yard. Thank you for the information. I will move it to a better place from where I was going to put it out in the sun. I have some nice shady places. A very large oak tree should shade it well.
I do not know if there is anything like that. There has not been any bees here, so don't think there is much of that kind of thing there. They can fly in but I hope it will not take time for some bees to move in. This time of the year the bees are going nuts with all the orange trees around. With all the citrus trees around there is loads of food for them. And almost every year there has been bees move into someone's house and you know that isn't good. I just want to have a better place for them to go. I do not know if I will be able to get any used equipment for the smell. I just can do what I can to keep them from going into someone's house.
I caught 19 swarms last year and 27 the year before. I now deck screw my boxes 6 foot off the ground instead of 20 foot like i used to do. I only use Lemon grass (100 percent) on a Q-tip and toss it inside plus rub or spay Lemon grass on the outside. I try to find areas with real old trees or where someone had bees many years ago. The longer the bees have been in the wild the better. However I fog my new swarm the same night I go to bring them home with Oxalic acid in case any mites are in that box. I've invented a new style propane fogger that can do a great job in just 1 Minute or less. this fogger can be bought for $100.00 plus shipping. then youmust buy your own torch at Tracto supply and propane tank at Walmart
I agree with treating them with oxalic acid vapor when caught. This works best when checking traps atleast weekly, otherwise there might be too much capped brood by the time they are treated.
@@DuckRiverHoney I leave 7 frames empty with no foundation. I just put a strip of starter to try and guide them. I put two frames of foundation against the sides, and one brood comb. I put deeps on tree stands. I’m sure you will catch a bunch anyway. I think the used comb is probably the most beneficial factor
I have a tall nuc box (5" taller for open area) made from plywood that's been in the weather for a long time, waxed new frames and wax inside the box with lemon grass oil. should I use a new deep with waxed frames instead? (The wax is old bee's wax melted and cleaned up almost clean enough for candle)
Great review video! In the past i have put some of my splits into unused swarm traps at the end of season and move them out in early spring to help with bee smell. You said you put in 2 drawn comb do the rest of your frames have foundation?
Bees refusing to enter almost always has something with the queen remaining outside, especially when the bees start building comb outside. Maybe the entrance didn't fit her or she just got lost and refused to enter. Forcing the swarm in making sure that the queen has been moved in will make them stay.
Very good info Thanks I have a question about swarm trapping, I live about 2 hrs west of Dallas TX. Does anyone know about the Africanized bees in this area. I am more worried about the people who give me permission to hang traps and store bees. All the places I have, I can place the traps about 1/4 mile from their residence, I just don't want them hurt. Do other people from TX have any input THANKS,
If they’re empty the moths don’t get into them as bad. Empty honey comb really won’t attract moths but brood comb will as they go after the spent cocoons.
@@DuckRiverHoney I collected a swarm last year and it was my best comb producer. Feed, feed, feed sugar syrup as soon as you re-home the bees. People don't realize as soon as they get the bees home from store or swarm that swarm season is already in full effect!
Swarm commander in the small spray bottles has (product of China) on the labels here in Australia. I am not sure whether it is a patent infringement or whatever so I just use lemon grass oil nowadays.
@@AS-ug2vq Lemongrass oil seems to work well here in Australia, but use it sparingly just a drop or two on top of a couple of frames and a smear at the entrance, I also rub the tops of lure frames with some slum gum from previous wax extraction, and the interior of the box, apparently it gives the box the lived in attraction. I have caught 7 good swarms in one trap in a good year, so it is well worth the effort.
The only time I have had swarms abscond after installing into equipment is when they don't have eggs and bread.. This probably means that you are transferring them the 1st day you get them before the Queen starts to laying. Stealing a frame of milk brewed from another colony will hold them every time
Open brood will definitely hold them. In my experience syrup will too. The issue I had was the bees didn’t choose to go into that box, I put them in it, so the queen never intended to lay.
@@DuckRiverHoney I think it may be more of an issue of the climate in your area also. What Rupert is describing is something I have seen others do in Mississippi and Louisiana do what he described and have it work. Things are going to be different in our further north belt of the country where the bees are not able to fly thru most of the winter like they are down there. My winters are a little harsher in my area of SW Missouri but, we are similar enough that I can understand yours. Just found your channel today and I have been binge watching (term I only recently learned) your swarm catching videos and have of course subscribed. I really like the way you come at things! I had your drive when I was younger and now that I'm in my first year of early retirement I was I had it back. You're helping me to get it back, thanks a lot for your videos!
Nathan, For a new hive to be used as a swam trap would it help, adding frames and swarm commander early (maybe 3 weeks early) to the hive to allow the smell to sink into the wood and for the new car smell to be gone?
Rickey I think rubbing or painting beeswax inside helps. Propolis does. Old drawn comb REALLY helps. Leaving wood open under a shed for a few months before use would help. Too much nasonov inside the box is not desirable in my experience.
size does matter. I had 15 old mail boxs i set out last year with two frames drawn shallow frames. even baited with lemon grass . no go but like you said i had to try. free stuff is hard to turn down. I have bees so i know there were bees in the area
Im going to be going thru all mail boxs and see how the wax moths enjoyed them. Also going to open some of the entrances. Some had slots but the ones that didn't I just put a 3/4 hole in bottom. I'm not sure if any held water since I had all of them sloped down. And there were holes in bottom of boxs. They were given to me from a old trailer park so free is good. They are weathered for sure. Metal and plastic.
@@BucksBeesS.C. they won't like metal and plastic. You can melt down some wax and add saw dust to it then coat your plastic and metal walls with it. They'll be more likely to use the box that way Anyone who saw bees on plastic. Most low surface energy plastic it's hard for bees to even walk on it. Let alone use it for their daily commute
I've heard that 40 liter size multiple times... but no one talks about how that translates info actual bee box sizes that we have for hives. Is that a deep? Two mediums? Eight or ten framed? LOL don't do will with metric measurements! Thanks for the clarification. On those list of considerations... add water source which might be part of "location". Another excellent video... shared with our bee club members. Too early to put out traps here in Pennsylvania just had 4 inches of new snow last night!
Thanks Nancy, a single deep is very close to 40 liters. I talked about water in Part 3 which was Where To Put Swarm Traps. ua-cam.com/video/9IF4Tj-_cJ8/v-deo.html
@@DuckRiverHoney Nice, I’m a new beekeeper and work for a pest control company. We’ve always called beekeepers for removals but will now do some ourselves when a local beekeeper is not available. Your videos have been very helpful. Thanks for what you do.
I trap with 5 frame nuc boxes that by all rights should be trashed or destroyed. For some reason, the more rotted the box, the more the bees like it. I also trap with 10 frame deeps and a few traps cobbled together with scrap plywood. Other than drawn comb, burning the inside of the box also gets rid of the new wood smell, and I have had pretty good success with it.
Interesting observation.... I read somwhere that rotten stuff at the bottom of the hollow tree contains some fungi that are beneficial to the bees ... Maybe that's why they like rotten lumber ... (??? )
... I caught one in my bee yard yesterday...50 degrees and sunny seems to get them moving... mother nature dosnt wait for a calander date. Go get em...!
I don't have any knowledge or experience but why wouldn't one use a deep super with frames, a telescoping lid and a bottom board with an entrance reducer as a trap? The dimensions seem correct and the transfer would be simple.
If you’ve got drawn comb to use then just use deeps. The void is attractive so if you’ve only got foundations then the mediums may work a little better.
Swarm traps that are high enough that you can only reach them with a ladder are not likely to be stolen. Likewise, swarm traps close to someone's home are not likely to be stolen.
If light tightness were extremely important, they wouldn't have started building comb under your swarm trap out in the wide open. Or at least that's the way I see it.
They do that because they rejected the box for some reason. They were probably looking for somewhere else. Swarms are engorged with food, and gorged bees make comb.
Do you have any issues with wax moths when you put drawn comb in your traps and nothing to guard the entrances??
You will have some, especially if there is pollen or any resources in the comb. Old honeycomb or broodcomb old enough to cull out would be ideal. Also if it’s had BT or paramoth exposure it’s less of an issue.
I know its a 2 yo comment but drawn comb isnt the lure for moths its the pollen and bread. I have traps out all season along with baited 8 frame hives, all drawn out but no pollen
They’ll leave comb alone if it’s never had brood in it. But the old cocoons of brood are a protein source and attract moths.
Your double medium box swarm trap than can be a “permanent hive”….is the BEST info I’ve seen on all the “swarm trap” videos I’ve see….thank you, I’m going with your plan with the LESS WORK….as I have lots of medium supers .
This is my first year trapping bees. I built 5 traps and I've caught 5 swarms. I'm pulling my traps as I empty them. It's a lot of fun
...thanks for the info... it's hard to explain why my brain is always buzzing...it's good to see others with a passion and passing it to a new generation... keep bee.lieving...and other bee puns. 🐝
Thanks!
Very professional 4 part presentation with no ums and ahs .....tremendous .....
Hello and thanks for sharing.
In germany, it is not allowed to let hives open without bees in, but of course, we use this method also for catching swarms...( illegal)
The original smell what bees are looking for is not the wax, but the smell of the wax moth. (The moth is the one who cleans up a hive after it was used by sick populations, and afterwards, bees can move in without getting in danger of beeing infected)
Therefore I take a piece of breaded comb with eggs of moths on it in a honeyglass, close it and make a few holes in the lid.
Now I place it in the swarmtrap. Bees can recognize the odor, but the adult moths can not get out.
Once filled a glass like this, it will work the whole season.
Very interesting, thanks
Where is this wax moth smell finding coming from? Any papers you read in German beekeeping journal or is it your own finding?
That's interesting and sounds like it could have as much validity as anything! Somethings that people learn to use thru generational beekeeping is more important than any scientific paper!
Great information and video. I have had great success putting about 3-4 drops of lemongrass oil on a cotton ball and then putting the ball in a snack sized ziplock bag and sealing it up. It will last about 3 weeks or so before needing reapplication in my traps. In the past I have used to much lemongrass oil before by rubbing some on frames when catching swarms off of limbs and the swarm would not stay until i swapped out for new unscented frames. I learned that anything over 1 drop rubbed anywhere inside a box to catch a swarm off of a limb is to much and they will not stay in there.
I agree Randall, too much nasonov repels them.
The Duck was looking beautiful. Thanks for the great content. Sharing what you did wrong or just sharing how you are adapting is an incredible value to all of us!
Thanks! The river’s a little high right now. Soon as it gets right I need to put my kayak in there and chase some smallmouth.
There's no need to put swarm cent in the hive, spray it on a nearby tree and the bees will find the box if they're interested. I've seen bees find holes in my trees I had no idea even existed until they showed them to me, they know that box is on that tree you can bet on that.
I like the swarm trap stand. I have used treestands in the past but loved the idea of using recycled lumber. I appreciate you that you shared the improvements of carriage bolts.
Thanks Walter!
I wave watched this video at least a dozen times.. there are only a handful of swarm trapping utube videos I can find. I gave it some thought .. your cut out from having 2 mediums to give you that void space .. if you put just top bars in the lower hive with starter strip you would not have to do a cut out.. I been waiting all year for swarm season to start in my area.. love your channel!! Greg in Canada
I appreciate it Greg. You're right, you could do starter strips and I bet it'll work fine. I'm not doing it because I'm not going to add another piece of gear just to trap swarms. I've got enough bees now that I can split and get to the number I want, so trapped swarms are a bonus not a necessity. That's why I wanted to make them less work and time critical.
Nathan, really great videos on swarm trapping. You have inspired me to read Dr. Seely's books and build 4-6 traps with last years equipment. Really like your video 1-2 weeks ago on checker boarding. I know your a busy man, keep them coming.
I really do appreciate the kind words. Thanks
I don't have a bottle of swarm commander, so I take a Q-tip with a bit of lemongrass oil, paint a smear around the entrance and put it about 6" inside somewhere near the opening. Our weather near the end of April has been coolish for several weeks and I think once we get some pollen sources we might have some swarms coming out. I live in SW MT. Waiting for spring to take us from a goofy winter. Bob
Good luck, I love Montana.
Your swarm trap series have been the best UA-cam videos on swarm trap/ bait hives out there. I had a similar issues with points you hit on.
I really appreciate that!
Great and informative series. You saved me days of work and research. I really appreciate it. I grow lemon grass so I can make the oil for free and just put it in spray bottles. Not sure if lemon grass grows where you are but it is an extremely low maintenance plant. I cut up some in a mason jar, put in coconut oil, but the jar in boiling water and simmer for 2 hours and have a huge jar of oil. Just a thought if you'd like to cut more costs. Thank you so much for this.
Thanks Tyler!
So wonderful that you are teaching your children to love nature and the bees ❤️
Thanks!
We have a member in our Bee club that does NOT keep bees anymore and only sets out swarm traps. 2020 he said he had 32 swarms that he caught and sold. We haven't met in person in 2021 so he didn't report on his numbers. He set them up in the St Louis metro area.
That’s pretty cool!
I find leaving a cavity in the middle of the box helps. 3 or 4 Empty frames or a small amount of drawn comb on a otherwise empty frame. Swarm commander is amazingly effective
For all of my equipment that uses migratory lids, whether they are bait hives or colonies, I cut a piece of plastic from a feed bag to use as an upper seal/cover between the box and lid. When a sheet is cut slightly oversize on the length and width, it seals the whole top and prevents accumulation of propolis. It's free stuff, seals well, generally available and the bees have never chewed it. If you don't have animal or bird seed bags, someone you know does.
I’ve heard that several times. Definitely would be common and cheap, and a good reuse. Thanks
I followed Dr Seely's recommendations and have had good success. For clarity I use an 1 1/4 hole which is right at 2 square inches. It's square inches the bees monitor. I also put it up 2 inches from the bottom. Last year I had 75% catch in Eastern Indiana. 3 years ago I had 20%. Location is key, which comes from practice. Good vedios. Thanks
Thanks Gary.
Great info. I appreciate your honesty on your failures and successes. Loved the bee checking out your new design @ 15:07. I built four more this week. Now I just have to get them out. I agree old comb is a great attraction. Best of luck.
Thanks!
Thank you for a helpful, nice summation.
Thanks Mike!
Good luck this year. Swarm trapping is the highlight of my beekeeping year as well and it's so easy. Caught 4 last year. Was given 1. It took 2 medium boxes to get it home.
It’s a fun time for sure!
Great information buddy thanks for sharing. I am with you on putting some swarm traps on hive stands I am actually going to do the same thing this year with some of my swarm traps. Keep up the great work buddy I appreciate your videos.
Thanks Mark!
I use the 5 gallon bucket system. Wax inside and around entrance hole. smoke inside and out. One frame of drawn comb. “one” squirt of swarm commander inside on the comb and one on the outside at the entrance. Hang by handle on limb. Lots of videos on bucket traps. Very cheap. Works great!
With the swarm trapped. Put cork or tape over entrance hole. carry to your hive box with entrance reducer installed. Pop the bucket lid and smoke them. remove lid and spray bees with sugar water. Poor bees into their new home. Make sure you have a feeder inside. Your all set.
Really good information. I seen a bee checking it out already. I changed up a few things last year with the swarm commander i didn't spray it like they say to do i only put about a drop or so in the box and it stopped the hanging on the outside of the box. Hope you have great luck with the new swarm boxes. I have been seeing bees already looking at a few of mine. ❤🐝
We’re behind in brood production, queens just started laying a bit. It’ll be a while before we see swarms here I bet.
Good information, thanks Nathan. I’m going to put my first swarm trap up here in a couple of weeks.
It’s almost time! Super fun time of year
The 4 holes in the baseboard is a great idea. Others neglect leveling the baseboard too. Not doing both may contribute to a buildup of water and hive cruft. The bees prefer the entrance low for a reason. The cleanup workers can push stuff [dead bees, hive beetles, ants, hive cruft, etc] out downhill far easier.
If water gets in, it has to be able to get out…. Thanks
I got my traps ready and will be setting them out in the next 2 weeks. In NH it's early, but they will be out. Thanks for the info, great as usual.
Thanks Brice, the fun / scramble is nearly here!
I put out traps yesterday. I caught one last spring on my hive stand in my honey production yard last year under hive with a freeman style bottom board. They grew fast and actually made honey and came out strong this year. I am using just a very small amount of lemongrass this year in my traps and use old frames in a deep box set up. I agree you need to get feed on them asap. Enjoyed the video. Good luck this year.
Thanks, luck to you!
Nice series ov videos !
Thanks for your time and effort !!!
It is highly apreciated.
Many practical points here . Veri nice presentation.
I am tring my first year traping.
Already made few traps.
Redy to go out tomorrow and instol them . Her in Australia still winrer, but flovers are allover the place...and temperature is getting
above 10+++ in the night.
I already missed 2 localbswarms last week as they fushed near our local pub ....into unknown direction.
This year it looks 1 month earlier
then last. ( mid Sept . ).
I dont use boxes but use tubes made of some packaging material.
Will wright up to date results.
All the best.
Thanks!
Nice swarm catching info. New to bees, 2nd year. Been getting my feet wet with the swarms. Thanks
Thanks!
Item 3. Not just drawn comb, but a preference for dark brood comb if you have it. Item 7. Completely agree with empty space below the frames, so a taller box is better in my opinion. Finally, I have also learned that with a spray lure you can spray too much or too often and cause the bees to beard and build on the outside. Question: how do you keep them from building comb in the feeder if you don't check them very often?
I use cap and ladder feeders. Have never had bees build comb in them.
lot of great info , caught my first swarm last year and I plan of setting more traps this year, thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
We put out our first 2 traps just today. Appreciate your “lessons learned” and now, fingers crossed! Putting out some more in a couple of weeks.
Good luck Susan!
Thanks for all the uploads on your methods sir:) this is very helpful information for my future swarm traps:)
Thank you!
Good talk. Time to set them up around here.
Thanks for stopping by Randy
Put the horizontal board behind the vertical?
Great video and as always thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
Thanks Scott, very kind of you.
In my setup, I have a mold to make my own foundation, so rather than using lemongrass oil/swarm commander in my swarm traps, I put a few drops of lemongrass per pound of wax I melt down. When the wax cools and solidifies, the smell gets trapped in the wax much like a candle and doesn't fade even after months. At the same time, being diluted in wax keeps the smell from being overpowering. Bees seem to really like this set up, and rapidly build up comb on the foundation. If you have plastic foundation, you could also still use this trick when if you coat them with a wax layer.
Can't say much about how effective it is compared to normal lures and preventing absconding, since I only have a few traps and haven't set up traps specifically for comparison.
That’s a really interesting idea! I think I’d worry about getting too much in there…but I’m not a very good cook.
Thanks for saying that, I might give that a try. I was worried about getting beeswax that had been too purified to add a good benefit for attracting bees. I may take it down to two drops though, or maybe even one at first, I'm good at blending things and attention to detail.
Great ideas! I can't wait to put some traps out! I'm going to try grafting this year but, I agree about the excitement of catching swarms. God bless
Thanks!
Thank you so very much for your videos, I am a newbie, that is I am new to beekeeping and trapping bees seem so very cool, I was just wondering how your latest set up to trap bees worked. I have watched the progression of your bee traps to this final bee trap. This set up seems like it would be the ultimate trap, and also convenient for the beekeeper. Please let me know how it works for you, or what you would change.Thanks Dan
Hi Dan, it’s been a slower swarm season overall this year, but I have trapped a few and it works fine. I do believe the empty space is attractive, but I don’t have time to check as often this year.
Great video! I like the approach of filling the empty space with frames to reduce the likelihood of a cut-out, but my big concern is stolen swarm traps. Your lost investment is going to be much higher with additional frames and a feeder. That is one of the reasons I went with 6 frame traps with empty space in the bottom. I will say, if the risk of theft is low, your setup is probably much easier to manage. I agree 100% on the telescoping covers. I had very little luck at the start of my 1st swarm trapping season. After seeing water in the boxes, I used bricks to weigh the tops down and ended the season at a 100% success rate. The very next season I upgraded to telescoping covers and had a success rate greater than 200%.
I won’t put a “full trap” anywhere I think they could get stolen. Good point.
GOOD INFO. will do some swarm boxes this year….use your experience to save me lots of time…. THANKS!
Good luck John 👍
Hello from Australia and thank you for you generous time and sharing.
Just to let you know that in Australia we are not allowed to used drawn combs in traps.
Do you mind letting us know how this experiment with the new traps went for you this year? .
I believe I caught 18 swarms that year. If you can’t use drawn comb then used boxes would help a lot if you’re allowed to do that.
@@DuckRiverHoney Thank you
No worries
@@wombattallong1840
Hi mate !
where about you are catching ?
In Australia or not ???
I already missed 2 swarms
in front of the local pub
... last week.
I can't believe it already started !
I expected( her in Adelaide)
Later ... mid Septembre
but ... not now.
Hi
I am in the Southern highlands of NSW close to Goulburn.
here the night are still cold 4-5C
Days are warmer .
I am planning to put my traps out mid September.
Let us keep in Touch :)
@@marinvidovic763
Your series on swarm trapping is very helpful. I don’t know if you are familiar with the plastic nuc boxes being used now but I wonder if you think they would work as swarm traps?
I am hearing what you are saying about open space causing them to build random come. I got around this by giving 2 built out frames, and all other frames wired with starter strips with both starter strips and wire well covered with wax. Worked a treat.
I’ve enjoyed your swarm trapping videos. Do you have a goal for how many swarms you would like to catch this season?
I’ve got 23 hives and would like to go into winter with 40 or 50. I’ve got 10 Caucasian queens ordered, so the rest of my increase can be splits or trapped swarms, either way.
Thanks so much for this info. Have you ever had problems with wax moths invading the drawn comb?
If the comb is dry and empty they won’t bother it too much. It can happen though.
Looks like you use the bottom board 3/4" side up, under the double medium boxes. Is that to get just a little more space below the frames or some other reason?
Put out 20 traps last year--caught 3 swarms; bears destroyed three with bees in them; 4 were stolen. All traps with bees had TWO entrance holes--half had Swarm commander, half Lemon grass oil. I only uses very small amount of lure...but local Mennonite woman drenches a piece of cardboard in Lemon grass oil and she caught 11 swarms. Two friends caught several swarms by just wrapping burlap around a pole and drenching the burlap with Lemon grass oil--this worked because they could check those poles daily when coming home from work. Side note--all three swarms I caught were placed within 7 meters of active railroad track. Maybe no bears on the tracks??
The best bait for a swarm of bees is wax, melted wax applied to the walls. Can be outside, can be updated periodically. For 30 years, this hobby has been tested. I conducted experiments when I met a swarm of bees on a tree in the forest. Search the Internet for a report on the research of German scientists, I lost the link, they conducted a large-scale experiment on catching swarms of bees, found out a lot of interesting things. Remember the main thing, the trap is not the main thing, finding a good place is the main thing, there are many factors in the search. Good luck.
Look up russian scion
I’ve waxed the boxes as well, it helps. Thanks
@@jarnold8803 Sorry, I'm a Belarusian, we have a somewhat strained relationship with the Russians. But it doesn't matter. catching swarms of bees is an international hobby, though mostly European.
Thanks for another excellent video! Anxious to hear the results from the "hopefully" improved approach this swarm season. In particular I hope your effort reduction measures (e.g. spacer elimination, reduced scout trips) does not reduce your effectiveness. I know you will be evaluating the cost (time) to benefit (# of swarms) ratio to see if those specific changes are a net gain as well as the impact of the other changes (telescoping lid, solid bottom board, less swarm commander). This is like a suspense novel except that I can't read ahead to see how it ends :)
Thanks, I’ve got options so hopefully I have healthy bees, and as many colonies as I want.
I made a 5 gal bucket one, I am planning on building a nice wood trap, but I don't have any bee stuff except wax and honey.. so It might work.. I put some lemongrass oil in the wax.. hoping it will last longer, and so far it is.. I am waaaaaaay north of you, so I am already planning for next winter, I have a swarm coming in May, and will start videos then. I made a top bar hive a few years back and plan on experimenting with other types, including jars on top of the bars..I will need a hay barrier for winter, this winter was a crazy amount of snow, so I may even need a better roofing system over the hay walls...
With swarm commander I'd probably use 2 squirts at most inside the hive. Even though we might not be able to smell it the bees definitely can.
With lemon grass oil I put some on a q-tip dab the front of the hive with it then throw the q-tip in back of the hive.
Really enjoying your videos. You’ve made a lot of improvement and you’re doing a nice job of covering useful content. 👏🏻👍🏻🍻
Thanks Ryan
i cleaned up wax using slum gum ,and the juice, to coat trap interior,i usually use swarm commander ,but very little
Bee smell, that’ll work.
does putting frames with wax become an issue for wax moth
What if you dipped one end of a q-tip into a vial of LGO or SC, put the q-tip into a ziploc bag, cut the bottom corners off of the ziploc, and put the bag either inside the hive or fasten it to the front? Might minimize your needing to spray the box with SC.
That works, I’ve tried it. But with drawn comb inside I don’t think I need any swarm commander inside. The LGO or swarm commander I think is more of a call lure to help them find the box.
Major warning if about 50 to 70 bees are just sitting on the entrance hole and once in 3 minutes one will leave and one will return these are only guard bees. No swarm will be inside yet, come back in one week and see if the workers are bringing in pollen. If pollen is being brought in the queen is inside.
Yep, I always look for pollen.
A small 5/8" in the bottom will help with both draining as well as bees using the trap as a scion and hanging underneath.
I use cheap 1x furring strips on the bottom of my box extensions. They're not supper miffed about some light bleed at the bottom, and it allows good ventilation from the very slight gaps, as well as drainage. BEST performing trap for me is a 5 frame nuc, and a box extension with a 1.5" hole drilled into it, and said slats on the bottom, made of rough sawn wood. They favor it way more than my Advantech extension.
Very interesting, thanks
I live in town in Florida and within about 10 blocks there has been bees move into someones house or other thing. I am thinking of putting a trap to get them before they go to someones house.I want tosee if I can get some used equipment to put in my back yard. Thank you for the information. I will move it to a better place from where I was going to put it out in the sun. I have some nice shady places. A very large oak tree should shade it well.
I do not know if there is anything like that. There has not been any bees here, so don't think there is much of that kind of thing there. They can fly in but I hope it will not take time for some bees to move in. This time of the year the bees are going nuts with all the orange trees around. With all the citrus trees around there is loads of food for them. And almost every year there has been bees move into someone's house and you know that isn't good. I just want to have a better place for them to go. I do not know if I will be able to get any used equipment for the smell. I just can do what I can to keep them from going into someone's house.
On your cross frame, is their any reason you don't put cross member to the rear of your vertical ??
That way vertical gives extra strength...
Cheap & easy were the goals.
I caught 19 swarms last year and 27 the year before. I now deck screw my boxes 6 foot off the ground instead of 20 foot like i used to do. I only use Lemon grass (100 percent) on a Q-tip and toss it inside plus rub or spay Lemon grass on the outside. I try to find areas with real old trees or where someone had bees many years ago. The longer the bees have been in the wild the better. However I fog my new swarm the same night I go to bring them home with Oxalic acid in case any mites are in that box. I've invented a new style propane fogger that can do a great job in just 1 Minute or less. this fogger can be bought for $100.00 plus shipping. then youmust buy your own torch at Tracto supply and propane tank at
Walmart
Thanks
I agree with treating them with oxalic acid vapor when caught. This works best when checking traps atleast weekly, otherwise there might be too much capped brood by the time they are treated.
In Honeybee Democracy Seeley says bees take little flights inside the cavity when they evaluate the space. Highly recommend the book.
Yep, I’ve got it, recommended it in the first video of the series. It’s wonderful.
@@DuckRiverHoney I leave 7 frames empty with no foundation. I just put a strip of starter to try and guide them. I put two frames of foundation against the sides, and one brood comb. I put deeps on tree stands. I’m sure you will catch a bunch anyway. I think the used comb is probably the most beneficial factor
@ 15:07 there was a bee checkin out your trap.😊
A few of my girls were around while I was filming. ;)
I have a tall nuc box (5" taller for open area) made from plywood that's been in the weather for a long time, waxed new frames and wax inside the box with lemon grass oil. should I use a new deep with waxed frames instead? (The wax is old bee's wax melted and cleaned up almost clean enough for candle)
The weathered wood would probably catch better, but the deep with deep frames would be less work if you did catch.
Do you put sugar syrup in your feeder, when you are trapping?
No, never
@@DuckRiverHoney
...
but what do you put in that feeder then ?
Nothing.
Great review video! In the past i have put some of my splits into unused swarm traps at the end of season and move them out in early spring to help with bee smell. You said you put in 2 drawn comb do the rest of your frames have foundation?
Yep, just foundation in the rest of the box. I try to not waste too much comb in traps, it’s valuable in other uses.
Bees refusing to enter almost always has something with the queen remaining outside, especially when the bees start building comb outside. Maybe the entrance didn't fit her or she just got lost and refused to enter. Forcing the swarm in making sure that the queen has been moved in will make them stay.
Very good info Thanks I have a question about swarm trapping, I live about 2 hrs west of Dallas TX. Does anyone know about the Africanized bees in this area. I am more worried about the people who give me permission to hang traps and store bees. All the places I have, I can place the traps about 1/4 mile from their residence, I just don't want them hurt. Do other people from TX have any input THANKS,
I put a few drops of lemongrass on a cotton ball, then close up in a ziplock bag. Gives off a more dialed down scent.
I tried that last year as well. It definitely attracts bees.
How do you prevent moth from destroying drawn-out comb in the swarm trap? Thanks
If they’re empty the moths don’t get into them as bad. Empty honey comb really won’t attract moths but brood comb will as they go after the spent cocoons.
This looks like s great way to build comb for honey supers!
It is, swarms are very motivated comb builders. Thanks
@@DuckRiverHoney
I collected a swarm last year and it was my best comb producer. Feed, feed, feed sugar syrup as soon as you re-home the bees. People don't realize as soon as they get the bees home from store or swarm that swarm season is already in full effect!
Swarm commander in the small spray bottles has (product of China) on the labels here in Australia. I am not sure whether it is a patent infringement or whatever so I just use lemon grass oil nowadays.
That’s interesting, thanks
Most of Asia has Apis Cerena, different kind of bee. I wonder if the swarm bait is same for both.
@@AS-ug2vq Lemongrass oil seems to work well here in Australia, but use it sparingly just a drop or two on top of a couple of frames and a smear at the entrance, I also rub the tops of lure frames with some slum gum from previous wax extraction, and the interior of the box, apparently it gives the box the lived in attraction. I have caught 7 good swarms in one trap in a good year, so it is well worth the effort.
My bottle says Taiwan.... Great bunch of lads.
The only time I have had swarms abscond after installing into equipment is when they don't have eggs and bread.. This probably means that you are transferring them the 1st day you get them before the Queen starts to laying. Stealing a frame of milk brewed from another colony will hold them every time
Open brood will definitely hold them. In my experience syrup will too. The issue I had was the bees didn’t choose to go into that box, I put them in it, so the queen never intended to lay.
@@DuckRiverHoney I think it may be more of an issue of the climate in your area also. What Rupert is describing is something I have seen others do in Mississippi and Louisiana do what he described and have it work. Things are going to be different in our further north belt of the country where the bees are not able to fly thru most of the winter like they are down there. My winters are a little harsher in my area of SW Missouri but, we are similar enough that I can understand yours. Just found your channel today and I have been binge watching (term I only recently learned) your swarm catching videos and have of course subscribed. I really like the way you come at things! I had your drive when I was younger and now that I'm in my first year of early retirement I was I had it back. You're helping me to get it back, thanks a lot for your videos!
Thanks Tommy!
Nathan, For a new hive to be used as a swam trap would it help, adding frames and swarm commander early (maybe 3 weeks early) to the hive to allow the smell to sink into the wood and for the new car smell to be gone?
Rickey I think rubbing or painting beeswax inside helps. Propolis does. Old drawn comb REALLY helps. Leaving wood open under a shed for a few months before use would help. Too much nasonov inside the box is not desirable in my experience.
size does matter. I had 15 old mail boxs i set out last year with two frames drawn shallow frames. even baited with lemon grass . no go but like you said i had to try. free stuff is hard to turn down. I have bees so i know there were bees in the area
What's the cavity size of mail box where you live?
19x6@1/2×8@1/2
Im going to be going thru all mail boxs and see how the wax moths enjoyed them. Also going to open some of the entrances. Some had slots but the ones that didn't I just put a 3/4 hole in bottom. I'm not sure if any held water since I had all of them sloped down. And there were holes in bottom of boxs. They were given to me from a old trailer park so free is good. They are weathered for sure. Metal and plastic.
That’s only roughly 17 liters, probably out of the range they’d consider.
@@BucksBeesS.C. they won't like metal and plastic.
You can melt down some wax and add saw dust to it then coat your plastic and metal walls with it. They'll be more likely to use the box that way
Anyone who saw bees on plastic. Most low surface energy plastic it's hard for bees to even walk on it. Let alone use it for their daily commute
I've heard that 40 liter size multiple times... but no one talks about how that translates info actual bee box sizes that we have for hives. Is that a deep? Two mediums? Eight or ten framed? LOL don't do will with metric measurements! Thanks for the clarification. On those list of considerations... add water source which might be part of "location". Another excellent video... shared with our bee club members. Too early to put out traps here in Pennsylvania just had 4 inches of new snow last night!
Thanks Nancy, a single deep is very close to 40 liters. I talked about water in Part 3 which was Where To Put Swarm Traps. ua-cam.com/video/9IF4Tj-_cJ8/v-deo.html
Bees don't care about shape. But long (vertically) and narrow horizontally are preferred for better air flow control in hive.
How did this set up work for you last year?
Pretty well George. It was a reduced swarming season here, but I caught or trapped around 12.
@@DuckRiverHoney Nice, I’m a new beekeeper and work for a pest control company. We’ve always called beekeepers for removals but will now do some ourselves when a local beekeeper is not available. Your videos have been very helpful. Thanks for what you do.
Awesome
I trap with 5 frame nuc boxes that by all rights should be trashed or destroyed. For some reason, the more rotted the box, the more the bees like it. I also trap with 10 frame deeps and a few traps cobbled together with scrap plywood. Other than drawn comb, burning the inside of the box also gets rid of the new wood smell, and I have had pretty good success with it.
A deep box is a great size
Interesting observation....
I read somwhere that rotten stuff at the bottom of the hollow tree
contains some fungi that are
beneficial to the bees ...
Maybe that's why they like
rotten lumber ... (??? )
In this time of February you think we can catch swarm on?
It’s a little early here, I expect our first swarms in late March or early April.
... I caught one in my bee yard yesterday...50 degrees and sunny seems to get them moving... mother nature dosnt wait for a calander date. Go get em...!
Where are you at?
@@DuckRiverHoney Jacksonville Florida
I know around March last year I got 5 swarm
I don't have any knowledge or experience but why wouldn't one use a deep super with frames, a telescoping lid and a bottom board with an entrance reducer as a trap? The dimensions seem correct and the transfer would be simple.
That will work. I don’t use deeps as swarm traps because I don’t use deep equipment. If you’ve got deeps it makes sense.
@@DuckRiverHoney what do you think...a deep super with deep frames or a deep super with medium frames and an open area?
If you’ve got drawn comb to use then just use deeps. The void is attractive so if you’ve only got foundations then the mediums may work a little better.
Tractor Supply has perfect torches to fit my propane fogger k
put the strap across the cross board too and you won't have a problem with it pulling off.
I just don't have drawn out comb
Wax Moths only invade your swarm box if you have pollen in your wax frames ok
They will go after cocoons, but not as bad.
I put dead outs that have been cleaned with a wet frame works 99% offbeat time
Have you had your traps stolen?
I never had, yet. They’re all on private land and tucked away.
Swarm traps that are high enough that you can only reach them with a ladder are not likely to be stolen. Likewise, swarm traps close to someone's home are not likely to be stolen.
If light tightness were extremely important, they wouldn't have started building comb under your swarm trap out in the wide open. Or at least that's the way I see it.
They do that because they rejected the box for some reason. They were probably looking for somewhere else. Swarms are engorged with food, and gorged bees make comb.
Should have put cross board in the back
Some young brood will settle your swarms!
It will. I use that occasionally. Thanks