Swarm Trap Types - Pros & Cons, What Bees Want - Swarm Trapping #1
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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Where To Put Swarm Traps - Swarm Trapping #3
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Part #1 in the Swarm Trapping Series. We take a look at what honeybee swarms look for in a new home, as well as examine various types of bait hives and swarm traps.
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1. Wood Fiber Swarm Trap - www.honeybeesu...
2. Wood Fiber Swarm Trap with Hive - www.honeybeesu...
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I love listening to this video. The volume of information in just this one video blows so many other Tubers out of the water. I think the best part is the fact that the trap doesn’t have to be 15 feet up in a tree like others say. Being a 49 year old woman, there’s no way I can handle climbing ladders that high with a box of bees in my arm. I can however stand on the tailgate of my Colorado without falling or breaking my neck on a ladder. Thank you 👏👏
I’m learning to work smarter, not harder!
Bees prefer being off the ground because of how they fly. They don't have to climb to cruising altitude. They micromanage for efficiency.
Interesting thought. Most folks think they like being high to avoid predators.
@@DuckRiverHoney bears and raccoons can climb, so I'm not seeing the logic there.
If you think about bees like airplanes, they save a lot of fuel if they don't have to climb as high. It saves time and energy on the departures and landings.
If I had it better, I'd use a deer tree stand. They come with an attached ladder.
Last summer was the first year I tried swarm traps and it was crazy amazing
I have caught many swarms no more than 5 to 6 feet off the ground, and have caught swarm in a box i was working on at my shop. it was outside my door of shop with frames in it and i was building top, noticed bees coming and before i knew it they were everywhere put top on and bingo. Never had that happen again. The bee hive was setting on saw horses outside my shop door. lucky me.
Awesome story!
Very good video. I would love to see part 2 cover some different techniques for scouting for swarm trap locations. Not just typical open field tree line facing south but more of looking at google maps and finding potential areas like public access areas or places along a river or such and scouting those.
I really appreciate the feedback. I’m planning a location video but I wasn’t going to go that in depth. Now I will...it’ll make it more useful.
I'll be interested too. I take pride in catching many swams each year. My take on it is trap design, understanding flyways where you know bees should be and deer hunting skills. I use a 40 litter 5 frame box like the design on the left. I get between 15 and 20 swarms a year. I run 14 traps. Good video.
very good video!
I appreciate it!
Very helpful thank you!
Very good information and very well produced.
Thank you for the kind words! I’m new to video but learning.
@@DuckRiverHoney please keep it up and good luck with your season
Thanks!
Great info and tips. Thanks.
Thanks!
Very informative
Thanks!
Fantastic video, thank you
Thanks!
thank you for sharing
Thanks!
I love the repurposed deer stand 😂😂😂
Thanks
23:19 Hi, what is the difference between primary swarms and cast swarms? Which on do you value better?
Primary swarm has the mother / mated queen. A cast or secondary swarm would have a virgin (or multiple virgins).
Glad I just happen to find you on UA-cam. Your video is very informative. I want to get your thoughts on something I've observed. Every trap-out I have done on bees in trees, their entrances were all facing the west. I live in southwest Louisiana and was wondering if geographic location may change a bees preference on entrance?
That’s interesting. Dr Seeley was doing research in the northeast so it would make sense that south facing in that climate would be more important. I doubt there’s that much genetic diversity between southern and northern bees though....probably no good answer without study.
I’m in Arkansas and found two bee trees that are about 200 yards apart facing the same field. One hive faces East and one faces North. Caught a couple of their swarms last year and hope to get more this year.
Awesome video! Question - can I catch swarms with all new equipment? I am going foundationless with a few waxed plastic foundations to get the bees drawing comb correctly in my regular hives. Would you think filling the swarm trap with all waxed plastic foundation or doing more of a checkerboard is a better approach? I will use a medium box with a spacer below or second empty medium. Lemongrass oil was going to be my bait. Thanks!
My opinion here.....use all waxed plastic foundations to get bees started drawing comb straight. Foundationless will probably work best if you insert that frame between two already drawn combs. So start them out straight on foundation and then work toward foundationless comb. New equipment will catch bees, all my traps were new last year, BUT I waxed the insides of the boxes with a roller and melted wax, and I used debris from cleaning out equipment to add bee smell to the new equipment. Lemongrass oil or swarm commander will work - I intend to use both this year and test results.
Rather than use a spacer, could you use 2 mediums and get the same results?
Yes, though it’s a little big.
Awesome video!! I have one question for you....where were you last year when I was starting out and buying equipment??? I like the idea of everything being mediums. Completely versatile throughout your whole apiary. Oh well, we’ll see how it goes this year. I can always cut the deeps to a medium and end up with a spacer from it. Looking forward to the next video 👏👏
I did a lot of study to arrive at all mediums. I got on beesource and saw a lot of old beekeepers complaining about how they would go to all mediums if they could start over....I decided to listen to their experience.
@@DuckRiverHoney sounds like a wise decision. I actually started out with 4 Flow Hives. It was supposed to be 2, long story there. I never imagined how addicted I would become. Quickly realized Flow Hives were not a sustainable option. Even though the FH were 8 frame equipment, I decided to go with 10 frame boxes going forward. My husband gave me an electric beehive lifter for Christmas since I already have a bad back. Hopefully it will all work out and there’s always options. We’re also farmers. He plants corn and soybeans and I take care of the livestock. 8 Dexter cattle, 10 Nigerian dwarf goats, and 3 bee colonies plus 5 Nucs. I did order 12 packages of Carniolans from Mann Lake just in case my bees don’t make it since I’m new at it. I also do the hum test, a couple I’m doubtful about. I feel like I’ve learned so much just this winter from being able to listen to more videos while I’m building bee equipment. Excited for a new year for sure!
Exciting times, the season will start soon...but not too soon, I checked our forecast and not out of the 30’s much next week. Oh well, whenever it warms up I can get my painting done, and reversals, and swarm traps up...lol it’ll be a chunk of work.
@@DuckRiverHoney speaking of swarm traps, I watched that video in the barn with 2 of my goats. I was so happy to hear you talk about the height of your traps. Other than the fact that I didn’t have extra equipment last year, I was nervous about having to put them high up and be able to get them back down. That video was very helpful too. Someone else commented how happy they were to find your channel, I second that motion. Excellent content and presented in a way that makes a person feel like a friend is giving advice. Keep ‘em coming 👏
@@DuckRiverHoney I started out with all mediums, but I’m switching over to deeps for the brood chamber. I know the ideas you mentioned sound great, but as my operation has grown to 15 colonies or so, I am finding it far too time consuming to manage a brood chamber of 3 medium boxes. I’m looking at going to single deep brood chamber, just for the ease of mite treatments, swarm control, inspections, etc.
WOW! That was very well thought out! I like the way you think and communicate your ideas and lessons learned. This will be my first year trying to catch swarms. Excited that I don't have to reinvent the wheel.
This was extremely interesting, and I’m looking forward to following your videos this year! Do you mind sharing the dimensions of your spacer that you combine with a medium box?
Kent, I'm making a 1.5" tall spacer from a 2x2 furring strip from lowes. Lumber is so high right now that those are still affordable to buy. I make another from a 1x4 which will be 3.5" tall. LxW is 10 frame Langstroth, so 19 7/8 x 16 1/4. I'll also use a shallow super which is 5 5/8" tall, and a medium super which is 6 5/8". The good thing about these is I'm able to quickly change the size of the box and offer multiple sizes in one location.
Question..how come you say the 2 traps on the left are single use? Is it because of the materials? What makes them single use?
Single purpose is what I should have said. The super and spacer style I can use as a honey super, nuc, swarm trap, or hive body. The other style is ONLY a swarm trap.
Do you dip all your equipment in wax and do you dip your swarm traps?
I’m not set up to wax dip, though I believe that is a great way to do it. I paint exteriors on equipment. On swarm traps I roll the inside with wax. ua-cam.com/video/4VMcReBWWtw/v-deo.html
Is that a stormy kromer?
It is. I’ve got several Kromer’s. Thanks
@@DuckRiverHoney what a beaut. Definitely subbing
Thanks!
Outstanding video and exactly what I needed to pull it all together. Thank you for not just saying "how" or "what" you did but also giving the "why" because then I can adapt your leanings and information easily to my situation...for instance I have also standardized on one size box but it happens to be 8F deeps (7F in honey super). With the spacer concept I can just adjust the spacer to meet the bees needs/wants using my standard equipment and have an effective swarm catching season. I wish all UTube channels were as articulate, organized and thus effective as yours Thanks again!
I appreciate it! Everyone has different needs so I try to explain things so folks can figure out what will work for them.
And I find Myself watching this again... Always learn something new
I had a bee swarm in my styrofoam cooler i have set up as winter shelter for cats. It was deep in the evegreen bushes, no sun, on the ground, round opening for cats, hay i side. It was a big swarm.
What I use is a 10 frame shallow box with plywood bottom and one of those entrance discs. On top of that I use a 10 frame deep with 9 foundationless frames and 1 of old brood comb. A man gave me 15 shallow boxes and this seemed to be the best use I could put them to. When I catch a swarm all I need to do is set the trap where I want the bees in my bee yard for a week then when they are ready take that 10 frame deep off and sit it on a regular bottom board, done.
Nailed it! - Perfect video. Can't wait to see your success this year.
Thank you much, I appreciate it!
Great vid. A full depth box with medium frames would give a cavity as well.
Yep, it works. With drawn comb for bait I don’t think the void is necessary.
Nicely done, clear explanations and no random talking about unrelated issues.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I agree, those 23mins felt like 5mins. Very informative, knowledgeable, and to the point. Liked and subscribed within the first couple of minutes. Excited to see your channel grow!
Thanks for the kind words!
@@texla7392 Same here, and I don't subscribe to very many feeds.
High praise, I appreciate it.
How far from my apiary should I place my trap to catch my own swarms?
Bees are the most absolutely voluntary farming animal in existence. This video offers an aspect of that voluntary nature - put out a good hive box, bees will take up residence. Trap a swarm and put them in a hive box, if they like it, they stay. But if they don't like it, they will avoid, or abandon it.
It's cheap n easy, like myself, to make frames for 5gal bucket traps.. Jus Sayin.. 😜😜
Thanks
Good content....I’m going to try it....I tried the locating the swarm trap high up....and it was entirely too much effort...so I’m going to use your PU truck method...and use the medium frames in a deep box also...or maybe use the deep frames in a two-medium boxes set up....Thanks....
Awesome, give it a try!
WOW Young man. Really good video..... You know what you are doing How refreshing So many are wanna bee keepers and newbies. I appreciate their efforts.... that is good and i watch, but I like to find someone with some expertise. Thank you!!! RIck in mountains south western Pa.
Thank you Mr. Rick! I am still learning as well, but if you ask my wife she'll tell you I'm a little obsessive about research and learning.
Very informative video I appreciate it.I like to hear your thoughts about just using a deep and put medium frames in it to give them the space in the bottom.also I think your hat have some thing to do with your swarm catching success!where can I get one of them?
I think that is a great idea. Bees will build comb off the bottom of the frames if you leave them in long enough, but those frames would still fit in a deep box, so they're usable. Keep them on the bottom and they'll be empty next spring...just scrape off the foundationless comb and put the frames into a medium box at that point if you want to.
The hat is a Stormy Kromer. I'm a bit of an eccentric...I like hats. I wish men still wore fedoras commonly so I wouldn't look like an oddball.
Nice video and very informative another attractant that you can use in your bait hive is a couple hand fulls of cedar shavings they love them I’m in eastern Kentucky and have great success doing this
Neat, I don't think I've heard that one! Thanks
So glad UA-cam suggested this video. I've subscribed and will be following. My entire goal this year is to catch a wild swarm. I want native bees, not purchased bees. Thank you so much for all the details of what works for you.
Awesome, thanks! Good luck trapping. It’s a ton of fun.
What is the best position for trapping a swarm from my own apiary? How far away? orientation of the opening?
Anywhere from 100 feet to 1/4 mile away works well. South or east facing entrances I think are preferred but that’s not the most important factor.
@@DuckRiverHoney tks for the reply. Is it ok if its not on their flight path? I have my colony in a field edge so ill have to put the trap laterally to keep it in the shade. laterally would not be in their flight path since they typically fly right out of the hive body into the field rather than taking a 90 degree turn from the hive and going into the wood line.
They’ll find it, especially with a little swarm commander or lemongrass oil.
@@DuckRiverHoney tks, enjoying the channel. You put out some good info. I had abut 12 colonies 6 years ago. Then I took a year off to build a house and they all died but one. I left it totally alone for 4 years. NO treatments, manipulation etc. The weeds even grew up in front of the entrance. I went back and it still had bees so I fixed the yard and decided if it is that strong it must have good DNA, so I am not treating it at all. I've got a lot of woodenware so I decided I wanted to get back into it on a smaller scale. Course the problem with bees is you wind up getting bigger and bigger due to splits and people calling you to harvest swarms.
Good luck with that hive, treatment free is a numbers game, expect 5 to 70% losses in any given year.
Good information! Been out of beekeeping for many years but starting back up this year. Back in the "old days" we never had these types of resources and had to learn on our own.
Bees are so complex it’d be hard to learn enough on your own. I think there are bad things about tech, but the ability to learn is one of the biggest benefits.
Facing South obviously pertains to the Northern hemisphere. In the Southern hemisphere facing North would be optimal.
Swarm catching is definitely something I hope to get the opportunity to do this spring. Thank you for the video!!!
I appreciate it Lorie!
Thanks for the video . Lot of information.
My suggestion is to use a medium sized box
With all frames in it. The frames should have only one inch strips, leaving lots of space between the strips and the bottom of the frames. The bees will have no other choice but to start building those strips down.
That may well work...one reason I use the spacer is because a single medium is only about 32L, which is a bit smaller than I’m targeting.
Okay I subscribed your channel and hope for interesting content.
Last summer I cached two colonies of yellow jaket and one colonie bees.
The one lowest to the ground, I made a bunch of those last year. Caught 3 swarms with them. Another tip, find someone who is a beekeeper and go to one of their neighbors down the road. Put the traps up there. You'll catch the swarms. Its fun and free.
Good deal! I’ve got about 20 or 21 out now, nearing the end of my line rollout.
Thanks for the videos Nathan. Just watched them again to see what i missed the first time. Headed to the shed to start ripping boards for the hangers and spacers. Cant wait to see how my traps work and to watch your checks with you. Looking forward to your videos. Thank you.
Thanks!
Very good video. I use the Swarm box that you got the highest in the tree I've got about 15 of them I catch about 10 a year. I like to dissolve propolis in rubbing alcohol and then paint it on the inside of the boxes it gets rid of the new Lumber smell. I always have one empty swarm box so that when I take a full one out of the tree I immediately hang the empty back up.
Thanks!
So glad to you’re recommending books by Thomas D. Seeley. He along persuaded me to be a treatment free beekeeper. Love his scientific research 🐝
Thanks Colette, how long have you been TF? Is it going well?
@@DuckRiverHoney I started beekeeping in 2015 I have been treatment free ever since and yes it is going well 💪 Sam Comfort is another brilliant treatment free commercial Beekeeper I follow 🐝
Very cool Collette, I think TF is upper level beekeeping. Difficult to succeed, depending on circumstances.
Great video!! I caught my swarm last year in an 8 frame deep. I will also bee using the 5 gallon bucket this year just because i can get them for free. Good luck this spring!
Thanks, and you too!
This video was well done, we want to try a swarm trap(s) this year. Do you use lemongrass or swarm commander?
I'm using both this year as a test. The second video in the series covers how I set them up and bait them in detail. ua-cam.com/video/4VMcReBWWtw/v-deo.html
I'm curious. I'm planning on building bait hives using deep frames so I can easily transfer the bees after I catch them. Is there a reason you're using medium frames? Also, how long after the colony moves in, do you pull the trap? How long do you allow them to establish.
Okay. I watched the entire viseo...I now know you use medium frames for everything. THANKS
Excellent video. I like your theory about a possible correlation between bait box and swarm sizing. Subscribed.
Thanks!
All my best traps have been facing EAST getting first morning sun but protection from full mid-day sun (I'm in Georgia and it gets hot, hot, hot).
I believe entrance direction is a factor, but not the biggest factor. Cavity size, entrance size & location, hive site, and presence of bee smell matter the most.
So many excellent ideas! I also use only mediums for brood and supers and this style of swarm trap will be perfect. Transferring a swarm to the beeyard couldn't be any easier. Thanks!
Yep, for the all medium system especially it makes a ton of sense
That was some F'ed up research by Dr. Sealy
I like the idea of standardizing the size to medium and using different block outs to adjust for size. I would wonder if a swarm box could be constructed from a brood box (I'm sure my ignorance is revealed)? It would seem that this would not only enable the catch but simplify moving, placement and addition of harvest-able comb in the upper assembly add-on. It does raise a question of re-usability. I would like to see detailed plans for your design.
I covered some detail in this video. ua-cam.com/video/VjbCC8k4JoM/v-deo.html
Spacers are pretty simple. A deep box with medium frames would work fine as well.
@@DuckRiverHoney ❤
😊
I’ve noticed how much bees like lemon pledge. If I don’t have any lemon grass oil I’m just gonna use lemon pledge because I think it’s likely the same stuff…
I think the formulas probably different, but if the other factors line up it could still work.
If you put 3 entrances on a swarm trap. 1 on each side, and then put the round aluminum entrance cover on. Would it make that trap universal so you would have 3 chances to put the active entrance facing south. Or would it deter bees from using it?
Entrance facing south is a preference, but not the biggest one in my opinion. Three entrances would make the trap more costly and fiddly to use, so it wouldn’t be something I would do.
I love catching swarms!🐝🐝🐝🐝
It’s a ton of fun and very exciting checking the line....can’t wait!
When you made this video. It’s was affordable. The price of lumber is outrageous now.
I bought medium supers last fall from an Amish man instead of Mann Lake. It’s tough to find fair deals right now, but they’re out there.
I'm thinking you could use a hive body and put medium frames in it. That would supply the void and you wouldn't need a spacer.
You can. I run all mediums and don't have any deeps. Also, it's easier for me to pull the spacer and just set the medium down on a bottom board. Several ways to accomplish the same thing based on what equipment you use.
Great videos, highly informative. I just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks Brumfield
liked the video very much, you covered everything i needed to know about swarm hives , especially not breaking my 71 year old neck
climbing a ladder installing or removing my trap, Thank you
That's awesome! I sure hope it helps. Good luck.
Great info . Will a yellow jacket make use of a empty nuke box?
I know that paper wasps will, not sure about yellow jackets.
would using 10 medium frames in a deep 10 frame box work and give enough empty space?
Yes, that makes a very good swarm trap.
The video angle swapping is killing me! But it got you a comment. I guess I have a better attention span then some.
Lol thanks
Thanks new at beekeeping my first time. I hope to catch a swarm to save on buying bees video was educational
Thanks!
The best lure is to paint the interior of the box with propolis tincture and at the entrance all around the opening and at least 1/2 of a frame of blackish comb inside, moths are not active until summer so using comb is perfectly fine. Height doesn't make much difference. I am an urban Baltimore naturalist beekeeper who does 2 dozen removals every season and I catch about the same amount of swarms. Our 150 colonies are surrounded by reclaimed swarm traps.I find summer secondary swarms have more success than spring swarms in that there are far fewer health issues.
Interesting. Do you collect propolis from dedicated traps or just save it from scraping woodenware? Are you diluting it in vodka or something else to make the tincture? I've heard of people doing something similar with dead queens.
Thanks!
Could you do a video on your collapsible swarm trap holder
This one covers it fairly well. ua-cam.com/video/VjbCC8k4JoM/v-deo.html
@@DuckRiverHoney they work great. Got 4out5 from my bait hives thank you for information
Great information! Thank you!
I enjoy your videos, very good information but I prefer Layens hives over Lanfstroth hives.
Layens are neat for sure. I wouldn’t mind one or two.
Top-notch!
This video is well researched, well presented, and well reasoned. It contains some very practical advice based on experience, as well as relevant information about the whys.
I am very partial to channels that don't just take a newly hatched, half-cooked idea and present it in a video without ever having tried it first. This video nails it 🤩
My own traps consist of one or two Warré boxes, a lid, and an eke with an entrance hole and a piece of plywood as floor. Everything is made out of discards, so the total cost is some nails. The upper box has eight top bars with vax strips, so the bees can measure the full volume of the trap while still being guided to build the comb my way - mostly.😉
I do like your foldable platform and will be adapting it. I have a few traps on flat roofs, where I place the trap on a cement tile and tie the whole thing together with baling wire.
Thank you!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Great video and excellent information. Dr. Seely wrote the book on swarm catching and if you follow his criteria, you will catch swarms!
Thanks!
As someone just starting out most of this was WAY over my head. Gotta catch up.
It’s a lot when you’re starting. But the climb is worth it!
Thankyou, I will be following along and trying this just as you say.
Good luck Bob!
Wow we actually captured the Apalachian trail live on-camera.
Ok....
I use both deeps and mediums. Toward the end of the video I came to understand that you use strictly mediums. But at first the question went through my mind, if you want space underneath the frames, why not make your trap out of a deep, but load it with medium frames? Not practical for you since you have no deeps, but would you agree that would work just fine for somebody like me who does have deep boxes available? Thanks for the good info which was well presented.
Yes, I think that would work great. If you leave them in it a while they’ll build foundationless comb off the bottom of the medium frames, but they would still fit in a deep.
I am just being gening into beekeeping an I was wondering how u get the bees out 9f the bee traps to the bee hives that trap make it easy I like it
You close up the entrance after dark or early morning when all the bees are home and move them. If you move them several miles it’s actually simpler than if you move them a short distance.
I like your last traps u can just put them in the hive I like that I live in Washington state it different have
They work pretty easy. Thanks!
Great video.
Kind of off topic. Have you ever used the nuc boxes that brushy mountain had???
What is you preferred Nuc box for transporting and growing nucs???
I'm using medium 10 frames supers with a double cap and ladder frame feeder (1 gallon) and 8 frames as a nuc box. 5 deep frames is roughly equal to 7.5 medium frames, so this system allows me to use the same boxes for my swarm trap, nuc box, hive body, and honey super.
Great video I really love swarm trapping too.
Thanks Dave, I can’t wait to get traps out.
thank you for the info =)
Welcome! I’ll have #3 up in the next few days. Working on the edit now.
@@DuckRiverHoney sounds good
It is April 9, '22 today, here in SW MT. We have had very nice weather but a cold few days is forecast. I plan to get swarm boxes out around the 15th. I have three boxes ready to go except for a frame of old comb. A local fellow has hives, but seems reluctant to turn lose of some of his junkers. Tues is our monthly meeting. I will ask him again if I can get a few combs. Hopefully he can part with 3 or 4. My bee supply store never heard of Swarm Commander so that's out, but I do have an expensive bottle of lemongrass oil. I made myself an OA vaporizer contraption if needed.
As a side note here-- I'm going to try the Layens system with the deeper frames.
I love Montana, was able to visit the Missoula area last year. You’ll have cold winters, So do your homework, and good luck!
Very interesting video. You covered information I have not seen talked about in other videos. Just subscribed so look forward to watching your other videos.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Built 18 traps last winter. Didn’t catch a single swarm. 🥴. I have the 5 frame upright model.
That’s a hard pill to swallow. Hopefully you’ll have better luck this year.
Good video but what about attractant, what do you use and how often. Also do you put frames in with out drawn comb or new frames with wax foundation or plastic wax coated frames.
Baiting will be an entire video. I caught 7 swarms with 5 traps last year so what I did works but I’ll experiment with a few different things this year.
If you live in a rural area and don’t know of any backyard bee keepers in your area for 10 miles, is it hard to find wild swarms? How will I figure out were to put a swarm trap?
I’ll do a video on locations, but if you’re in a rural area and have blocks of trees mixed with fields and pastures, I bet you’ve already got feral colonies there. In the woods, shaded, but near a field edge is a good starting point.
It's not about the survival of the hive. It's about the survival of the colony!
I use hive and colony a bit interchangeably.
What did you mean when you said that the 5 frame tall bait hives were "single use?" I'm curious to hear..... I've used them for years and got multiple uses out of them with a few that have caught multiple swarms year after year. Nice video by the way!!
They’re a swarm trap and only a swarm trap. My medium supers are a swarm trap, nuc box, hive body, or honey super. Less equipment to fill more roles.
@@DuckRiverHoney Oh! Okay.... you mean you can use them for more things. I get it! Thanks!
Very interesting and informative Nathan! Thank you for sharing the link to this with me.
No problem, thanks for the kind words!
Great, informative video- thank you!
Thanks!
Great video thank you very much , very informative.
👍
Outstanding! I’m just getting started, and this is the most helpful (for me) swarm trap video I’ve found. Thank you for producing this video.
Awesome, I really appreciate the encouraging words!
I hang and take down swarm traps using a climbing tree stand that I use for deer hunting. I use a rope to haul up the trap and a rope to lower it down. The tree stand provides a stable platform to hang the trap in the tree. I want my traps high to discourage theft.
I did the same last year and plan to this year as well. That’s the exception I make for ladders since I don’t have to carry the trap up and down the ladder. It won’t be long now!
Really great information. I been using the same bait give literature w no success. I use medium supers so this helps me rethink and retool my approach. Thanks much.
I’ll cover locations and baiting pretty thoroughly in the series. I also plan a weekly swarm trap line series. Time and schedule allowing!
Why do you have to face opening to the south why do the honey bees likes that more
Especially in colder climates southern exposure catches more sun in winter, so after a snow or ice event a south facing entrance would clear before a north facing one would. In warmer climates it may not matter.
Wonderful! Able to download a PDF of Honey Bee Democracy! Thank you for helping us understand Bees better.
The free PDF is actually the publication Bait Hives for Honeybees. Honeybee Democracy you'd have to purchase. It's a nice book, worth reading. Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
Great communication and explaining. Very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.
Why are the 6 and 5 frame boxes with the metal disks “single use” as you describe them?
They’re only useful as a swarm trap. Pull them out of the barn for swarm season, put them back in the barn after swarm season.
Got it-thanks!
Does this system work with mesh floor and standard crown board and roof?
Good question, the answer...probably varied and nuanced. You want to provide what the bees see as their BEST option for a nest site. Some beekeepers see that bees don’t prefer screened bottom boards, even though they do well on them, especially in hot climates. We do know they are cavity dwellers and prefer a “light tight” nest. So I bet you can catch swarms on a screened bottom board, but I also bet it would be second choice to a solid bottom. It’s all about what the bees see as BEST. Personally, I’m using solids to catch them, then moving them to whatever I want.
So can I put med frames in a deep box to give it enough void space
Yes you can.