#askgmbntech am I ok to add an extra 10mm of travel into my fork without having to worry about breaking my frame my bike is a 2019 trek remedy with a 160mm travel fork
#askgmbntech how do I prevent rusting I noticed that my bike"s fork , bar , chain and back cassete are getting rusted even though I always keep my bike indoors
#askgmbntech i’m looking at a brand called Orbea and I Found A good Cheap Hardtail and I was Wondering if you Would Recommend it to First time Mountain bikers Here is the Link www.orbea.com/gb-en/bicycles/mountain/mx/cat/mx-29-40 Thank you
If an air shock is vertical with the air can at the top, it might prove to be more reliable over time as the float fluid or equivalent will spend all its time where the air can seals are
About the 27.5 fork on 26 frame. I run that setup on the bike in my picture(Mongoose Fireball 8-speed 26" DJ). It's a 27.5 Fox 32 with a 26" wheel and 2.5 maxxis DHF. To be honest, it didn't raise my front end at all, the fork overall length is the same as the RockShox 30 26" fork I had on there, it just has a higher arch to clear a 27.5 wheel.
With vertical shocks the upward force has to be converted to downward force, this puts more strain on basically everything......... Going back 10 years or so to the Kona Kikapu (a bike I still own and have trouble letting go of), there were reports of linkage failures and the actual frame fracturing at the pivot point, and I think this is why they were discontinued in 2008/2009.......
That is vice on the threaded fork lower the one you recommended using the SR suntour axle. That was excellent whoever came up with that knows their s***.
No, no it's not. Axles are a super integral part of a fork and they are certainly not interchangeable. They're responsible for more than just holding your wheel in.
According to horizontally and vertically bike shocks - can you explain the difference between rear suspension systems? I mean 1 hinge vs 4hinge etc. #askgmbntech
maślan technically it’s called 1 pivot or 4 bar linkage but realistically there’s not much performance difference except that the 4 bar would probably have more progression and maybe a softer small bump sensitivity depending on the layout. The Scott Gambler 2018 has lots of linkage and is complicated and hard to clean and is very linear (this is a bad linkage design). The new Scott Gambler has very few linkages and pivots but is progressive and modern, like a trek session
Andre: I’m very happy with my 2020 Alloy Giant Trance 29”. They were doing 20% off around Black Friday so there may well be some good sale prices through out the year.
I've owned both a vertical and horizontal shock mount frames and the only difference I notice is that frames with horizontal mounted shocks tend to suffer from more pedal bob.
It's just that pedal bob doesn't have anything to do with the shock orientation. It has everything to do with how the swing arm, linkage is designed and the relative position of the pivot point and chain ring position.
@Aditya Wardhana Thats not quite how it works. My coil and air shocks are on the stiffer side because I tend to do large jumps. That being said, the pedal bob is hardly noticeable, but I just wanted to mention that I had no pedal bob at all on the vertical configuration.
@@christianholmstedt8770 Thats probably true but keep in mind horizontal shocks do in fact have a different swingarm design from vertical shocks. And yes not all horizontally mounted shocks have the same swingarm design. For example, santacruz 5050, commencal clash, yeti sb150 all have completely different designs but the sb150 completely eliminates pedal bob.
In essence: The shock operates exactly the same way mounted horizontally or vertically. It is all about the suspension design. Just like I said in the beginning.
Thank you for the answer Henry. Foam inserts and downhill tyres sound nice indeed. Regarding spoke tension, I had them checked in a shop a few times recently (everytime I had a problem actually), with no improvement... Unfortunately though, the rear triangle of the bike broke before the carbon wheels, and it seems that the part is not available anymore... Might compromise my plans a bit.
@@mtbboy1993 thanks for the advice. I have tried a reseller. They told me the part is not available anymore from the manufacturer. I might still have a chance that one other reseller has a spare in stock. I have contacted Spe's support, maybe a newer version of the rear triangle could fit my frame? Welding is an option I thought about also, but the chainstay on the other side is dinged as well, so I believe the part will be weak...
If you have wheelset that has issues on smooth surfaces they are garbage and should be binned. I had a set of alloy wheel on my XC bike (the stock fuji ones) that had the same issue and it was coz they were garbage. Nothing would stop them from bending. Furthermore, Doing the megavalanche after only 1 year of riding is insane and reeks of hospital. It's a cool ambition but maybe take the age restriction off and really work up to it. There are people here that have been riding for decades and would never consider running that race. Me being one of them, especially now I'm disabled.
hi guys the trunnion mount is new to me and it taken a lot of time to find a little information on the mounting of them ect. i think a detailed video is need as there is not one on the web explaining them fully and showing mounting them and dimensions to make it easier for us guys to understand them thanks rowan
Funny question in the title. Ive been a big fan of Horst link suspensions over the years. Ive ridden them in many formats, from FSR (Specialized), to Turner 5 Spot, to Titus Racer X and now a Canyon Neuron. Despite the shock placements and the addition of things like a "brain", a Horst link suspension feels very similar between manufacturers.
I disagree with the idea that the "soft metal" lowers wouldn't be strong enough to hold a helicoil. If the original threads were strong enough for the application, then the new slightly wider threads should be just as good. But I know your job is basically to increase retail sales in the bike industry as much as possible, so you'll always recommend buying new stuff.
I agree, as a mechanic we have used helicoils in all sorts of places and are very strong (better than original a lot of the time) also using the suntour option and removing the thread is doing the same thing? try helicoils and if it doesn't work then replace the lowers. just my 10 cents worth
@@robocopp7009 with the new demo they stumbled onto a great pedaling platform so they transferred the linkage design (with some tweaks) to the new enduro, which is apparently a great pedaling bike with lots of travel (something very hard to do, pedal bop and such)
One more option for a tripped axle thread: find an external bolt that works with your fork after you've drilled out the damaged threads. They sit on the outside of the leg with a flange and may be cheaper - although it may not fit at all if the fork dropout doesn't have enough space for the flange to sit flat.
#AskGMBNTech 7:03 If it's a FOX fork can the threaded insert for the axle not be replaced instead of the whole lowers? Are there any versions that don't let you? You can definitely remove it with the 15QR forks as that's how you "clock" the axle lever and at least some of the pinch-axle forks used removable inserts that let you swap between 15 and 20mm axles.
Debating going from a 26” Downhill Bike to a 27.5 Downhill Bike and keeping up with the times. Current dh bike is a Saracen Myst Pro 2014 (although it is 2019 team spec). Thinking of upgrading to a 2019 Saracen Myst Pro and swapping all upgraded parts over (would have to get 27.5 lowers for my forks). Would this be worth it? Just don’t want to be stuck with 26” when it becomes pretty difficult to find the spares & parts you need/want for your bike. Also, would I need to go for a medium 27.5 as the 26” bike is large #askgmbntech
DAM it would be worth it as long as your confident swapping parts as it could end up costing more then just buying the brand new bike. 26inch probably won’t die for another few years so no worries but 27.5 won’t give much difference except for more available spares
@@jooncash8844 yeah yeah. perfectly fine with it, priced up new lowers for the forks and so on as they are only a couple of months old. would basically have two full bikes with one (being the 26") to sell to recoop some of the cost also
Sr suntour axles are 15mm Fox 36 are 20mm and the axle is 20mm through the wheel and on the threded side of the fork but about 22m on the other side of the fork I would say get some threaded bar 2 nuts and 2 washers thread it through the original axle and bolt it together Or Replace the lowers
Good video thank you ! What’s the best full suspension system to go bike touring mostly on asphalt ? And what setup i should use ? To loose least paddling power ?! 🙏
Just the facts? I just listened to a lot of parsed conjecture. I am not dissing on you because the only way to stay just with facts would be to only share actual data. Weight, Geo, travel numbers etc. To the question about shock orientation maybe it's an opportunity for you to do a frame design/suspension type-kinematic explanation for those that might want more of the geeky stuff. Include such things as IC, Anti-squat, Brake dive, leverage rate, progressive, digressive terminology. Or we can send them to Vorsprungs Tuesday Tune videos. But it would be cool to see GMBN's version.
#askgmbntech is the Nukeproof scout as capable as the reactor when doing laps in a downhill park such as 417 BikePark and BPW. (On blue and red trails)
Ben Rankin definitely, nukeproof clearly put their time into designing it and it doesn’t matter so much about the travel but how it’s designed. The Norco optic has 125mm but it’s very well designed so you can take on whistler with it, so the reactor would be fine and fun
As far as the question about the helicoil goes, coming from a trade qualified ‘first class machinist’ of 10 years, every time I get a brand new ally component, I will always drill out the threads and replace with helicoils. The amount of unyielding braking strain between helicoiled and not in ally is incomparable. If you have the wall thickness to accomodate it ( the size of the wall left over needs ATLEAST be the same as the thickness of the helicoil itself at the major diameter of the thread or more) than that is a viable option and in my work shop that would be the way I would repair it
When I was testing bikes I tried a transition scout (vertical shock) and a Santa Cruz 5010 (horizontal shock) ..... the scout soaked up everything and felt more plush but the pedal bob was horrendous by comparison. went with a 5010 and now run a cane creek coil with a lock out and rarely lock it out because it pedals so well.... the coil 100% improves the small bump and grip in corners 👍🏻
So which one jumps better and feels good in the air because the Canyon Sender have its shock to the bottom which made the bike have more weight on the bottom which makes it planted and I think change your jumping feel and thinking about vertical shock position the weight of the shock is parallel or on your bottom which helps in positioning compared to a horizontal which idk where the weights go
#askgmbntech , so many suspension setups , VPP, CBF , Maestro , FSR , how does one pick the right suspension for their ride style ? What are the characteristics of each one and are there performance benefits of picking one over the other ?🤔
I got my canyon spectral 4.0 3 months ago but it came with a fox 34 performance 140 instead of Rythem 150 .I noticed however that these forks are 29/27.5. Should I get a 29’ wheel in front and use 29 in front and27.5 in back#askgmbntech
34 performance is same as the rhyhm. How did you meassure the travel? 29/27.5 fork means it can be used for both wheel sizes, do not change the wheel, it is meant to be 27.5 by Canyon and changing it will affect geometry.
the area that I have to ride is is in the southwest so I've got a lot of really sharp rocks and things of that sort to negotiate what are your thoughts on if I were to run full Alloy on my 2016 specialized camber
The 27.5 fork on a 26" frame: GMBN didn't even touch on the steerer tube size, which is what i was hoping for. So many 26" bikes (if older) take a straight 1-1/8" steerer, whereas newer 27.5" forks are built with the tapered steerer tube. Has anyone found a decent & robust 27.5" fork with a straight 1-1/8" steerer?
Disagree , with you answer on shock position, yes it makes a difference, I have done testing with sensors on bb flex which flex more when pedaling that over stutter bumps, but ever rider is different as to how a bike rides! However position of shock has more to do with what you want the shock to do, but in simple terms a horizontal shock will carry speed better, happy to prove this!
Yes you can think differently, does not mean anything, but a lot more to winning races, but would really like to to have dyno equipment, & add real proof, than armchair experts
Blue Skate you do Notice it a bit, the vertical has a more forward axle path and keeps your weight centred while the horizontal linkage pushs you back a little bit but you get used to it
The sentry might be a little too much for a "beginner" full sus. It's very long, low, slack & a little heavy. The BBB might be better suited but it depends on trails your riding I guess
Hi GMBN Tech, asking for some guidance. I’m a rather heavy rider and don’t have much clicks available on my Fox Float DPX2 and Fox Factory 36 with GRIP2 for my weight. Like to know if getting a custom shim stack will help move the clicks more to the middle allowing more adjustability? Thanks :) #askgmbntech
I had to brake my collarbone to realize this. It’s safe to say no good Downhill bikes have horizontal mounts, and it’s for a serious reason. Vertical mount style suspensions and floating suspensions contain and keep the pressure of the rear shock within the rear system. Not transferring any rear shock pressure to the front wheel. It’s very simple, a vertical style suspension will contain and keep the pressure within the pivot point of the shock and triangle. The horizontal shock system will transfer that rear shock and pressure up to the front fork/ wheel. How could there possibly be so little information on how a bike will behave with a horizontal mount shock versus a vertical mounted shock!!! Blows my mind.
I have a set of stans wheels running Project321 hubs, these hubs are fantastic but they have QR end caps and I'd really love to convert them to 12×142 and run them on my enduro. However, throughOut my agonizingly long search, I cannot find the neccissary hardware. I've noticed project321 sources their hub shells from Industry 9, mine specifically being the torch hub, so my question is, can I somehow use I9 torch endcaps to convert my hub to thru-axle without forking out $70 for a whole new axle? By the way, big fan, love the info u put out to the community
The fox float ctd lever (blue) is stuck at trail mode and won't move to climb or descend mode. It came like that when I bought it. Would cleaning it help? If so how can disassembly those levers? #askgmbntech
#askgmbntech Hey guys, recently I watched Henry's Tutorial on how to bleed a brake in real time. It's a great video, yet there is one tiny little mistake which I see everyone doing or let's say I have an improvement. Although it's great that he pulls some fluid out of the caliper itself, you usually don't want to do this with your fluid already in the syringe. Reason being, mineral oil is hydrophobic, and lighter than water, so with a bit older fluid (not the dark used one) there is the possibility of pulling water in your mineral oil and Pumping it back in again. More time consuming but better, use an empty syringe and pull some older fluid out, close the bleedcaliper, and then get some fresh fluid in the cleaned or a dry syringe. Then put the tube on and open the valve again. If you have reasons why I am wrong I would be glad to hear an explanation. I store the Bike vertically before I start the work so gravity pushes all the Water down and all the air up. Big fan of the Show, and an Inspiration, Thank you
Maik Eckert This is actually a good point, thanks. DOT brake fluids absorb the water and form a consistent solution within the system, meaning water doesn’t get to pool anywhere, so this only applies to mineral oil systems. Mineral oil doesn’t attract water, though, so the only water ingress points would be condensation in the reservoir, through seals and microscopic pores in the brake hoses, right? I’m guessing this is a negligible problem if you maintain your brakes well and relatively often, but a good tip to keep in mind if you’ve been running the same fluid for years.
@@CodSlap Exactly my Point, although you normally change your brake fluid if it's discoloured, water can get in your oil just from moisture which is in the oil itself, or if you get some air in your system this is possible as well, beside your points.
I've got a Shimano Funnel, for bleeding, and mineral oil. I was wondering how i can improvise a serynge with a hose to push oil in the caliper. Can you recommend any serynge and hose diameter to use? Is this even possible? #askgmbntech
Spiry Lastname if you want to do a quick bleed just take the funnel and attach it to the lever and put some oil in the funnel, then squeeze the brakes and keep doing that until the air bubbles come out
Hello from Canada! I have a question about tuning a hardtail bike's feel. I have a Chromag Stylus 650b designed around 160mm fork. I am running a Fox 36 Grip 2, 30mm of headset spacers, a 35mm long stem and 25mm rise bars. I am 183cm and 70kg and the bike has 597mm stack and 465mm reach. I like a very lively front end, i.e., easy to pop up and bunny hop off weird root and general shenanigans but I am finding the only way I can achieve that feel is by over pressurising the air spring to like 85-90psi but this sacrifices handling at high speeds on rough terrain. I'm pretty strong but I just don't have the body weight to easily pull up with such a low (for the travel) stack. Would higher rise bars allow me to run lower pressures? Would a 38-40mm rise make enough of a difference? I have the rebound nearly fully open to keep the front end from feeling "dead" as I am a pretty light rider for my height. #askgmbntech
#askgmbntech I sent a jump and bottomed out my suspension.When i bottomed out my suspension the fork will click when it rebounds back up.Any recommendations
#askgmbntech Hi. I'd like to know, how big is the new Shimano 12 speed SLX SGS rear derailleur compared to the older 11 speed SLX RD-M7000 GS mech. I'm planning to upgrade my old 26er (2011 Giant Revel which I'm very attached to) and I'm a bit worried that with a larger mech the lower jockey wheel could be to close to the ground. Currently I run a 3x8 drivetrain with a Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 SGS rear mech. I'd be grateful for any help in this matter.
#askgmbntech I've got an SRAM NX Eagle cassette on my 4 month old bike and followed Park Tools gear/rear derailleur adjustment video to get my gears right. I set the H screw and the 1st shift (from the smallest sprocket to the next) properly, as per the video, but when I cycle the bigger sprockets I progressively hear the chain rubbing on the next biggest sprocket, and if I fix the bigger sprocket shifts and return to the smallest it almost falls off next to the frame! Is it possible that this happens because of a slight rear hanger bent? Any help would be appreciated as it drives me mad having to adjust the barrel constantly when riding!
try pressing a piece of spaghetti in the middle of its length vs pressing at a joint between two pieces, then think how much force the damper mount must react then ask yourself why placing it in the middle of the downtube is the most optimised position. just think about all that unwanted compliance in the frame because of how you're reacting the force. also regarding shock placement you might run into issues with cavitation etc if shocks are positioned upside down take all marketing bs about suspension geometry with a pinch of salt. everyones c.g. position is different on the bike and everyone runs different tyres/pressures/fork & shock settings/drivetrain combos etc. etc... look at pinkbikes latest huck test and see how much the tyre compresses/rebounds relative to the suspension. people are out there riding single pivot bikes and still having tonnes fun which is all that matters unless youre racing. most riders dont even bother commiting a few days solid setting up their £700+ fork and shock!!! if you think mountain bikes are highly engineered think again!
Nope they don't reduce travel. Inside the fork is a chamber of air on one side that has a fixed total amount of air. The pressure x volume at the beginning of the stroke must equal the pressure x volume at the end of the stroke. If you reduce the volume using volume reducers then the pressure at the end of the stroke must be higher so satisfy this formula and thus preventing you from bottoming out as force = pressure x area (so force is increased). Hope this helps.
Niksuttelia no they don’t, basically it reduces the volume of the air chamber so as you go through the travel it gets stiffer and stiffer so you don’t always bottom out
#askgmbntech Hi guys. I dont really know what to do because my fork lockout on my rockshox pike rct3 doesnt do anything at all do you have any advice on trying to fix it or should i just leave it to the bike shop to do. Thanks
What year is the fork from? Very few modern forks have a full lockout mode where the fork doesnt move at all. The fork will always move in the "Firm" position, it just makes the fork stiffer.
Sounds like the same problem I have with a 2018 rockshox revelation forks. What we think of as lockout is really just maxing out the low speed compression. My fork is now full open regardless of where I set that compression dial. No one has been able to tell me whether it just needs a service or if the compression damping is broken. No one services suspension near where I live either. So I'm not sure what to do about it
I have a 2019 full sus Merida 120, with SRAM GX Eagle gears. When I ride through vegetation (eg high grass) the rear derailleur gets pulled inte the spokes and bends. My question is two-fold: How can I prevent this from happening? And what’s the best way to fix it? Currently, I take the bike home, put it in the bike stand, shift to the highest gear, and try to bend the jockey wheels back by hand. I’m worried that my treament will wear out the derailler and make something snap. #askgmbntech
Sounds like your derailleur hanger might be bent. Yes, doing this will wear out the derailleur early, make sure to check your high and low limit screws as well.
#askgmbntech hey Harry I recently got a bike for Christmas and I had to put the bars the pedals and the front wheel on and I noticed wen I wheelied my front wheel would stop so I checked it and I loosened the bolts and held in he front brake and I would tighten the bolts back up but there would still be rubbing on the disk so I got a flat head and put even space between the pads by pushing them open and putting the wheel back on but I noticed that when I pressed my front brake the lever would just go to the bar and wen I let go the pads would just go back to how they were how do I fix this
#askgmbntech i broke my magura mt5 twice and it cost for me 60€ fore one brake i have combinate the magure brake with a shimano bl mt200. It works fine but is it good fore the brake ?
Claudiu Gemanar I can tell you right now that you'll likely be okay for a while but once you decide to have the brake fully serviced in a few years, there might be some noticeable wear on the brake caliper. it's generally just a good idea to stick with what the manufacturer uses as the brake is designed to work specifically for THAT fluid and not any other kind. with that being said, I'm sure itll be more than useable for the foreseeable future. you could also just buy the fluid (royal blood) from maguras site as its not very expensive at all
@@claudiugemanar6424 I know a semi pro ride and a few guys how built their own bikes. And the say there is no noticeable abuse. The only difference is the better feeling.
#askgmbntech Can I place all spacers on my steering tube under the handlebar and only go with the cap on the top? Or should you have at least one "spacer" (forgot the word for it) on the top of the handlebar and then the cap? I'm wondering since I've never seen anyone go with just the cap on the top before and don't know if it's safe or not.
@@Lfomod1Dubstep Just make sure the top of the steerer is only around 5mm lower than the top of the stem. If you have the steerer too far down in the stem you wont get the correct clamping pressure and you are at risk of the stem twisting on the steerer while riding which will end with a nasty crash
#askgmbntech I’m currently looking at the 2020 Norco sight a3 and I have noticed that because it’s the cheapest model the shock doesn’t have a piggyback. Will this affect dampening compared to a piggyback and/or robustness of the shock? Thanks.
it will affect damping only very slightly. Piggyback resevoirs increase the oil volume in the shock which allows better damping control and reduces temperature related changes to damping. It wont affect the robustness at all, its one less thing to service and go wrong so your reliabilty increases reallt. www.bikeradar.com/features/trail-tech-what-type-of-rear-shock-is-right-for-you/
Paran01ac no, the web says a dt m1900 has a 370 hub with pawls, not 350. Only if you have a 350 hub could you just swap for a 54t ratchet. If you had a 350 hub it’s an easy job to do, if you yank on the cassette you can get the freehub to pop right out.
@@jonathanzappala thank you so much for the answer, would you recommend a dt 350 hub? Or is 240 better? What hub would you buy yourself in that situation? Thanks.
Paran01ac Paran01ac I have 350 hubs on my bike. They cost less, and the only difference is weight and stainless steel bearings in the 240. If you buy the straight pull 350 hubs, the front hub almost weighs the same as the 240. It’s because the 350 hubs are forged and 240 are cnc’d. It wasn’t worth the extra money for a little weight to me.
Paran01ac I would check the dt Swiss spoke calculator too, it can tell you if you can use the same spoke length. Otherwise you would have to buy new spokes and then your better off just getting a new wheel.
I have a Cube Hanzz 190 27.5 and am very interested in trying a 29er up front. Will putting 180mm 29er fork and 29er wheel mess with the geometry too much or is this a good idea? Bear in mind that this bike can take a 200mm fork. #askgmbntech
🤣🤣🤣 #clickbait. But seriously... if you really did do that throw away the rotor throw away the pads you will never get the oil residue off either surface
@@archetypex65 Just in case this is a serious comment... Nonsense! Meths/Isopropyl/alcahol/acetone etc will remove oil from the discs easily. Pads may need replacing if they;ve been contaminated, but cleaning with solvent as above and then rubbing with abrasive paper may rescue them if they are contaminated and sintered (Doddy did a bit about this).
#askgmbntech I mistakenly bought a Sram boost 1x crankset for my older non-boost bike. It has a direct mount chainring. Can I get an offset chainring to get the chain line back to 49mm?
#AskGMBNTech Here goes my odd question! Here in France we get the brakes mixed up with UK. But it sounds more logical in France where you get rear derailleur and brake on the right side and front derailleur and brake on the left side. Is there a good reason for this or is it just UK wanting to do things differently (like driving on the wrong side of the road)? Cheers ;)
In USA we set up our bicycles the same way as you. The UK way makes sense if you ride motorcycles though. As far as i know, motorcycles have front brake on the right hand and clutch on the left.
Actually (and I'm French too), it seems like we do it the wrong way... If you compare to motorcycle, all around the world the front brake is under the right hand. And on bycicle, I think we might be the only country that do front brake to the left? Might be wrong though.
#askgmbntech: the compression damper of my rockshox revelation fork on my 2018 nukeproof scout does nothing at all. Even from brand new, this problem used to happen only once in a while but now the fork is fully open no matter what i set the compression dial to. Will a service remedy this? Thanks!
Alright. Is it known to be a repairable issue or just known. In other words is it just a wierd design that gets gummed up and can be cleaned/repaired. Or is it that the revelation forks are rubbish so i will have to spend a bunch of money on a new fork if I want a functioning damper?
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy/Henry, looking for some advice. I have a 2018 Specialized Stumpjumper with a 'RockShox Monarch RT3, Rx Trail Tune, AUTOSAG, rebound and 3-position compression adjust, 197x48mm'. I wanted to upgrade the shock but understand the size is custom to Specialized and newer shocks don't come in the necessary size as Specialized have made their newer bikes conform to standard sizing. Is there any way to fit a newer standard size shock (200x50mm for example) to my bike? Thanks Scott
#askgmbntech My shock ( Fox DPX2) is slightly to large for my frame (Giant Reign X) so the shock is always slightly compressed. What kind of damage will this do to the shock? Thanks.
Mastersaint XD won’t do any damage to the shock but it will reduce the travel. It will make the first part of the travel quite stiff so your in for a harsh ride. Unless you just mean the sag which wouldn’t change anything, to fix this bump up your pressure a bit
#askgmbntech I want to build up my own dual suspension bike. I am willing to spend the money on a frame such as a Santa Cruz because of the lifetime warranty and keep the bike for a very long time (10+ years). My only concern is that would the trends and standards change too much over time and force me to change frame due to the sizes not being made anymore, eg threaded BB’s and the current boost spacing. Or should I buy a cheaper FS frame and replace more often?
#askgmbntech I bought an older full suspension with an upper an lower air chamber but I don't understand how it works. Can you explain the difference between dual chamber shocks and modern ones?
#askgmbntech can i replace my not very good sram nx 11 speed as soon as it wear out with a Shimano XT? My bike is a cube reaction TM pro 2019 with a cube MZ5R hub. Will the microspline freehub fit?
@askgmbntech i baught a canyon spectral 5.0 ab they sad that it will come on the 12.12.2019, so i waitet till the day the bike should come but it don't come. 1 1/2 monthe later it also wasnt there, and now my question: what shell i do ??
#askgmbntech I have a freehub driver question: I have a DT Swiss M1900 wheetset with their 350 3-pawl XD driver on it for a SRAM GX groupset. I would love to upgrade the freehub driver to a 6-pawl due to the lack of precise engagement but I'm having trouble identifying one that will mate with the hub ratchet drive ring. Is this possible? or do I need to replace the entire wheelset. Thank you!!
Jesse Nixon a DT 350 hub does not use pawls, it has a the ratchet, so that’s not the one you have. The web says you have a 370 hub. As far as I know dt Swiss only makes 3 pawl hubs for the pawl versions, not 6. More pawls will not make the hub any faster to engage, it would need more notches in the hub shell for that. So yes you would need a new hub to get faster engagement.
@@jonathanzappala Thanks for the reply, and that's what I've come to understand in the last few days. When you search Drivers online they look so similar you get convinced its a direct swap but it apparently isn't that simple!
I think they don't do reviews because of sponsor deals. If they review their sponsors product it would look, and probably be, very biased. And if they review product from other brands, it wouldn't make the sponsors unhappy. It's a business after all.
#askgmbntech What pressure should I store my forks at? And my 2014 fox 34 forks have massive stiction on the beginning of the first stroke only, afterwards are fine. Is this normal and will it go away with use( never used in their life yet)? Thanks
Store them in same pressure as you ride them, should make no difference. If the forks feel sticky, do a basic service. Clean them and change new oils. Also worth checking is the air chamber (same chamber where you put your air in, under air cap), it might too much grease in, which most likely will have similar effect.
#askgmbntech my rear tire (Nobby Nic) is more worn out than the front. I want to move to a faster rolling tire/less knobly. Do I change the rear tire or the front tire? (Cube stereo hybrid)
I was looking for similar advice last year, and was told the general rule is to have more grip on the front tire - if you lose grip at the front the consequences are pretty bad, but not so bad if your back tire has a bit of slippage. I followed that advice, got a good chunky front tire, and it made a noticable difference.
#askgmbntech. I ride a size XL marin hawk hill 3. I have few questions. 1 can i go up travel on the forks i currently running rockshox revelation 120mm? 2 can i turn the rear shock upside down? 3 why does my rear break keep screeching and have brown mark on the inside of the disc ? Thanks and love to show
lee sj My 19’ HH came with 130mm fork and i’ve seen a few that people swapped to 140mm with no problems. You must have an 18’ which came with the 120mm I think.
Sounds like your rear brake pads have work down to the metal. You need to change these right away and depending on how long you've been riding metal on metal, you will probably need a new rotor as well.
Luke Downey do it outside in a well ventilated environment, wear one of those white filter masks that they sell at hardware stores and get cutting. If you didn’t do this just make sure you don’t breath it in because it can cause bad lung diseases
#askgmbntech hi Doddy/Henry I recently saw a hydraulic 1x13 drivetrain and I was wondering what are benefits that you get with a hydraulic actuated system rather than cable and is it worth it for the price.
It's likely so they could get around the multiple Shimano, SRAM, box patents. Hydraulic will mean that there is no cable stretch so could prevent bad shifting for a bit longer, but it also means you need to bleed the fluid ever know and again. The hydraulic derailleur also has the nice feature to easily lock it into one position if something does snap with the hose. Mechanical derailleurs with a cable can be limited by set screws, but often they don't have enough adjustment in them to fix it in any gear. Hope this helps!
I'm planning to add a dropper post on my full sus. Cable entry's on the left of the frame and the lever on the left of the hb, how can I neatly cable manage the cable if they're on the same side of the bike? #AskGMBNTech
waldenjay assuming you are not running a front derailleur: starting at lever on left grip run housing in front and around the right side of head tube. Also assuming internal routing and a cable stop on the right side of the down tube close to where it meets the head tube. The cable will cross inside and exit the down tube at the bottom left Then a short housing bit up into the left side of the seat tube.
#askgmbntech I'm looking to buy the canyon neuron but I'm 5 foot 5, according to canyons website I would be a small wich come with 27.5 wheels. I would really prefer 29ers, would you suggest to but the small and then put 29er wheelset on it, our just upsize to the size medium that comes with 29ers on it? Thanks
By how much are you off the bigger size? If it's a centimeter or two, you dan get away with shortening the stem or more backsweep on the bars. If you have shorter legs, this doesn't work. 29er on a 27,5 can work but probably doesn't work, the chainstay could be too short, the bb rises, an it would feel off.
29ers roll over everything. My girlfriend rode a 26, then a 27.5 and now wants a 29er. She is 5.7. A 29er is harder to get moving but the additional rotational weight of the wheels helps to keep that momentum and even makes the bike feel way more stable. The Canyon is a great bike. I just got an XL Neuron AL 7.0. Its an incredible value and a blast to ride.
Always worth buying a quality hardtail. Hardtails look better, help build your skills better. They are just better. Look at the gmbn hardtail videos with blake in them if you need more convincing.
I'd go for the good hardtail, full squishes have more parts that can fail. If the bike has a sketchy spec to begin with, some part will probably fail and you couldn't ride unlike with the hardtail.
Got a question for us here at GMBN Tech? Submit it in the comments below using the hashtag #askgmbntech
#askgmbntech am I ok to add an extra 10mm of travel into my fork without having to worry about breaking my frame my bike is a 2019 trek remedy with a 160mm travel fork
#askgmbntech how do I prevent rusting I noticed that my bike"s fork , bar , chain and back cassete are getting rusted even though I always keep my bike indoors
Done this numerous times....no response. Give up in the end.
@@willbennett7107 yes this shouldn't be a problem, yet if you ask your dealer or the company you may lose warranty.
#askgmbntech i’m looking at a brand called Orbea and I Found A good Cheap Hardtail and I was Wondering if you Would Recommend it to First time Mountain bikers Here is the Link www.orbea.com/gb-en/bicycles/mountain/mx/cat/mx-29-40 Thank you
2:07 is what you're after
thanks man
Thank you
Thx
Thanks man
cheers
If an air shock is vertical with the air can at the top, it might prove to be more reliable over time as the float fluid or equivalent will spend all its time where the air can seals are
About the 27.5 fork on 26 frame. I run that setup on the bike in my picture(Mongoose Fireball 8-speed 26" DJ). It's a 27.5 Fox 32 with a 26" wheel and 2.5 maxxis DHF. To be honest, it didn't raise my front end at all, the fork overall length is the same as the RockShox 30 26" fork I had on there, it just has a higher arch to clear a 27.5 wheel.
With vertical shocks the upward force has to be converted to downward force, this puts more strain on basically everything......... Going back 10 years or so to the Kona Kikapu (a bike I still own and have trouble letting go of), there were reports of linkage failures and the actual frame fracturing at the pivot point, and I think this is why they were discontinued in 2008/2009.......
No, It doesn't. You're welcome.
That is vice on the threaded fork lower the one you recommended using the SR suntour axle. That was excellent whoever came up with that knows their s***.
No, no it's not. Axles are a super integral part of a fork and they are certainly not interchangeable. They're responsible for more than just holding your wheel in.
According to horizontally and vertically bike shocks - can you explain the difference between rear suspension systems? I mean 1 hinge vs 4hinge etc. #askgmbntech
maślan technically it’s called 1 pivot or 4 bar linkage but realistically there’s not much performance difference except that the 4 bar would probably have more progression and maybe a softer small bump sensitivity depending on the layout.
The Scott Gambler 2018 has lots of linkage and is complicated and hard to clean and is very linear (this is a bad linkage design). The new Scott Gambler has very few linkages and pivots but is progressive and modern, like a trek session
Andre: I’m very happy with my 2020 Alloy Giant Trance 29”. They were doing 20% off around Black Friday so there may well be some good sale prices through out the year.
Agreed. Love mine.
I had a 2018 trance 27.5 and recently upgraded to a 2020 29 trance. Love it even more
I've owned both a vertical and horizontal shock mount frames and the only difference I notice is that frames with horizontal mounted shocks tend to suffer from more pedal bob.
Agree
It's just that pedal bob doesn't have anything to do with the shock orientation. It has everything to do with how the swing arm, linkage is designed and the relative position of the pivot point and chain ring position.
@Aditya Wardhana Thats not quite how it works. My coil and air shocks are on the stiffer side because I tend to do large jumps. That being said, the pedal bob is hardly noticeable, but I just wanted to mention that I had no pedal bob at all on the vertical configuration.
@@christianholmstedt8770 Thats probably true but keep in mind horizontal shocks do in fact have a different swingarm design from vertical shocks. And yes not all horizontally mounted shocks have the same swingarm design. For example, santacruz 5050, commencal clash, yeti sb150 all have completely different designs but the sb150 completely eliminates pedal bob.
In essence:
The shock operates exactly the same way mounted horizontally or vertically.
It is all about the suspension design. Just like I said in the beginning.
A great set of questions and a great set of answers. Great show.
Thank you for the answer Henry. Foam inserts and downhill tyres sound nice indeed.
Regarding spoke tension, I had them checked in a shop a few times recently (everytime I had a problem actually), with no improvement... Unfortunately though, the rear triangle of the bike broke before the carbon wheels, and it seems that the part is not available anymore... Might compromise my plans a bit.
try shops that sell Specialized, you might find the part , search for the part number, if not you might be able to get it welded by a professional.
@@mtbboy1993 thanks for the advice. I have tried a reseller. They told me the part is not available anymore from the manufacturer. I might still have a chance that one other reseller has a spare in stock.
I have contacted Spe's support, maybe a newer version of the rear triangle could fit my frame?
Welding is an option I thought about also, but the chainstay on the other side is dinged as well, so I believe the part will be weak...
@@objectifmtb3263 check second hand sites like pinkbike, maybe stick a wanted add on there?
@@carlstanton2550 Thanks, I'll check that, I only tried the French sites and eBay for the moment.
If you have wheelset that has issues on smooth surfaces they are garbage and should be binned. I had a set of alloy wheel on my XC bike (the stock fuji ones) that had the same issue and it was coz they were garbage. Nothing would stop them from bending.
Furthermore, Doing the megavalanche after only 1 year of riding is insane and reeks of hospital. It's a cool ambition but maybe take the age restriction off and really work up to it. There are people here that have been riding for decades and would never consider running that race. Me being one of them, especially now I'm disabled.
hi guys the trunnion mount is new to me and it taken a lot of time to find a little information on the mounting of them ect. i think a detailed video is need as there is not one on the web explaining them fully and showing mounting them and dimensions to make it easier for us guys to understand them thanks rowan
"Shaft", hehe
Nice.
“Large diameter shaft”
That is not funny
@@joshuakey5017 …. Lol
@@joshuakey5017 PENISES
Really well spoken.no ums and breaks.
This was my biggest concern, thanks for answering
Funny question in the title. Ive been a big fan of Horst link suspensions over the years. Ive ridden them in many formats, from FSR (Specialized), to Turner 5 Spot, to Titus Racer X and now a Canyon Neuron. Despite the shock placements and the addition of things like a "brain", a Horst link suspension feels very similar between manufacturers.
I disagree with the idea that the "soft metal" lowers wouldn't be strong enough to hold a helicoil. If the original threads were strong enough for the application, then the new slightly wider threads should be just as good. But I know your job is basically to increase retail sales in the bike industry as much as possible, so you'll always recommend buying new stuff.
I agree, as a mechanic we have used helicoils in all sorts of places and are very strong (better than original a lot of the time) also using the suntour option and removing the thread is doing the same thing? try helicoils and if it doesn't work then replace the lowers. just my 10 cents worth
I’ve got a 27.5 on mine work well with 26 frame setup
You can melt chocolate with that voice 😍😍
Hahahaaaaa
LOL
Wtf
Gay
@@24huntsman
And whats wrong with being gay ?
They don’t do reviews because that will compromise their bottom line. That’s why they do ads instead.
I have Trek fuel ex 8 2013 and i have 120 mm in the rear i want to put more travel in the rear but i dont know can i do that
No
Great questions from others and thank you for the info as well. I will pass it on and your gmbn tech channel.
happy new year gmbn!!!
Henry:” the cinematics of a shock isn’t something landed on by accident”
Specialized: ”hold my beer”
Errr what?
I still dislike specialized
Its kinematics bud physics
@@robocopp7009 with the new demo they stumbled onto a great pedaling platform so they transferred the linkage design (with some tweaks) to the new enduro, which is apparently a great pedaling bike with lots of travel (something very hard to do, pedal bop and such)
@@MrChristmcleod leverage. IF:OF ratios. Force & movement.
Good advice on the wheels and I only use good quality alloy wheels from Mavic and DT Swiss.
One more option for a tripped axle thread: find an external bolt that works with your fork after you've drilled out the damaged threads. They sit on the outside of the leg with a flange and may be cheaper - although it may not fit at all if the fork dropout doesn't have enough space for the flange to sit flat.
Can you explain the difference between tapered and straight fork
#AskGMBNTech 7:03 If it's a FOX fork can the threaded insert for the axle not be replaced instead of the whole lowers? Are there any versions that don't let you? You can definitely remove it with the 15QR forks as that's how you "clock" the axle lever and at least some of the pinch-axle forks used removable inserts that let you swap between 15 and 20mm axles.
Debating going from a 26” Downhill Bike to a 27.5 Downhill Bike and keeping up with the times. Current dh bike is a Saracen Myst Pro 2014 (although it is 2019 team spec). Thinking of upgrading to a 2019 Saracen Myst Pro and swapping all upgraded parts over (would have to get 27.5 lowers for my forks). Would this be worth it? Just don’t want to be stuck with 26” when it becomes pretty difficult to find the spares & parts you need/want for your bike. Also, would I need to go for a medium 27.5 as the 26” bike is large #askgmbntech
DAM it would be worth it as long as your confident swapping parts as it could end up costing more then just buying the brand new bike. 26inch probably won’t die for another few years so no worries but 27.5 won’t give much difference except for more available spares
@@jooncash8844 yeah yeah. perfectly fine with it, priced up new lowers for the forks and so on as they are only a couple of months old. would basically have two full bikes with one (being the 26") to sell to recoop some of the cost also
Sr suntour axles are 15mm
Fox 36 are 20mm and the axle is 20mm through the wheel and on the threded side of the fork but about 22m on the other side of the fork
I would say get some threaded bar 2 nuts and 2 washers thread it through the original axle and bolt it together
Or
Replace the lowers
Good video thank you ! What’s the best full suspension system to go bike touring mostly on asphalt ? And what setup i should use ? To loose least paddling power ?! 🙏
Thanks Man for Help
Thanks for your time
Very informative thank you best one you’ve done yet!
Just the facts? I just listened to a lot of parsed conjecture. I am not dissing on you because the only way to stay just with facts would be to only share actual data. Weight, Geo, travel numbers etc. To the question about shock orientation maybe it's an opportunity for you to do a frame design/suspension type-kinematic explanation for those that might want more of the geeky stuff. Include such things as IC, Anti-squat, Brake dive, leverage rate, progressive, digressive terminology. Or we can send them to Vorsprungs Tuesday Tune videos. But it would be cool to see GMBN's version.
What's more soft? The coil suspension or the air suspension? I want a suspension to pump and i want to be very soft
Coil absorbs alot more small bumps so coil but it needs to be the right spring for your weight
Personally I prefer the looks of a vertical shock. And easy to carry on my basic Pacific bike carrier too :-)
higher spoke tension will NOT give you a stiffer wheel
fradd agreed
#askgmbntech is the Nukeproof scout as capable as the reactor when doing laps in a downhill park such as 417 BikePark and BPW. (On blue and red trails)
Ben Rankin definitely, nukeproof clearly put their time into designing it and it doesn’t matter so much about the travel but how it’s designed. The Norco optic has 125mm but it’s very well designed so you can take on whistler with it, so the reactor would be fine and fun
Is it as capable: definitely, depending on the rider. Would it be as comfortable: probably not.
As far as the question about the helicoil goes, coming from a trade qualified ‘first class machinist’ of 10 years, every time I get a brand new ally component, I will always drill out the threads and replace with helicoils. The amount of unyielding braking strain between helicoiled and not in ally is incomparable. If you have the wall thickness to accomodate it ( the size of the wall left over needs ATLEAST be the same as the thickness of the helicoil itself at the major diameter of the thread or more) than that is a viable option and in my work shop that would be the way I would repair it
When I was testing bikes I tried a transition scout (vertical shock) and a Santa Cruz 5010 (horizontal shock) ..... the scout soaked up everything and felt more plush but the pedal bob was horrendous by comparison. went with a 5010 and now run a cane creek coil with a lock out and rarely lock it out because it pedals so well.... the coil 100% improves the small bump and grip in corners 👍🏻
0kojack0 that probably says more of the suspension design, shock and running than if the shock is horizontal or vertical.
Texture I I agree. But thought I’d mention as it was the title of the video. Wasn’t one of my finest stories admittedly 😂
So which one jumps better and feels good in the air because the Canyon Sender have its shock to the bottom which made the bike have more weight on the bottom which makes it planted and I think change your jumping feel and thinking about vertical shock position the weight of the shock is parallel or on your bottom which helps in positioning compared to a horizontal which idk where the weights go
Thanks for the answer
No problem!
#askgmbntech , so many suspension setups , VPP, CBF , Maestro , FSR , how does one pick the right suspension for their ride style ? What are the characteristics of each one and are there performance benefits of picking one over the other ?🤔
I got my canyon spectral 4.0 3 months ago but it came with a fox 34 performance 140 instead of Rythem 150 .I noticed however that these forks are 29/27.5. Should I get a 29’ wheel in front and use 29 in front and27.5 in back#askgmbntech
34 performance is same as the rhyhm. How did you meassure the travel?
29/27.5 fork means it can be used for both wheel sizes, do not change the wheel, it is meant to be 27.5 by Canyon and changing it will affect geometry.
the area that I have to ride is is in the southwest so I've got a lot of really sharp rocks and things of that sort to negotiate what are your thoughts on if I were to run full Alloy on my 2016 specialized camber
#GMBMTech Why do you spring suspension forks have to break-in and how does breaking in make the springs more reactive thank you
The 27.5 fork on a 26" frame: GMBN didn't even touch on the steerer tube size, which is what i was hoping for. So many 26" bikes (if older) take a straight 1-1/8" steerer, whereas newer 27.5" forks are built with the tapered steerer tube. Has anyone found a decent & robust 27.5" fork with a straight 1-1/8" steerer?
Disagree , with you answer on shock position, yes it makes a difference, I have done testing with sensors on bb flex which flex more when pedaling that over stutter bumps, but ever rider is different as to how a bike rides!
However position of shock has more to do with what you want the shock to do, but in simple terms a horizontal shock will carry speed better, happy to prove this!
"a horizontal shock will carry speed better" so all those years of Gwin dominating on a Session with a vertical shock prove that yes?
Yes you can think differently, does not mean anything, but a lot more to winning races, but would really like to to have dyno equipment, & add real proof, than armchair experts
I feel like if I had a full suspension bike I wouldn’t notice the difference, but I do think vertical look better
Blue Skate you do Notice it a bit, the vertical has a more forward axle path and keeps your weight centred while the horizontal linkage pushs you back a little bit but you get used to it
@@jooncash8844 I only once ride a bike with a vertical shock and it was the best feeling I ever had
Do you think Calibre Sentry is good beginner full-suspension bike for every day use and all kinds of riding?
#askgmbntech
Blaž Germ deffo buddy, join the Facebook group: Calibre Bossnut Riders Group
Honestly not a bad bike. I’ve been down the red runs at havok on a full dh bike an one of the lads I was with sent it on a calibre bossnut.
The sentry might be a little too much for a "beginner" full sus. It's very long, low, slack & a little heavy. The BBB might be better suited but it depends on trails your riding I guess
Hi GMBN Tech, asking for some guidance. I’m a rather heavy rider and don’t have much clicks available on my Fox Float DPX2 and Fox Factory 36 with GRIP2 for my weight. Like to know if getting a custom shim stack will help move the clicks more to the middle allowing more adjustability? Thanks :) #askgmbntech
I had to brake my collarbone to realize this. It’s safe to say no good Downhill bikes have horizontal mounts, and it’s for a serious reason. Vertical mount style suspensions and floating suspensions contain and keep the pressure of the rear shock within the rear system. Not transferring any rear shock pressure to the front wheel.
It’s very simple, a vertical style suspension will contain and keep the pressure within the pivot point of the shock and triangle. The horizontal shock system will transfer that rear shock and pressure up to the front fork/ wheel. How could there possibly be so little information on how a bike will behave with a horizontal mount shock versus a vertical mounted shock!!! Blows my mind.
Can you change the rear shock from upside down to upwards
I have a set of stans wheels running Project321 hubs, these hubs are fantastic but they have QR end caps and I'd really love to convert them to 12×142 and run them on my enduro. However, throughOut my agonizingly long search, I cannot find the neccissary hardware. I've noticed project321 sources their hub shells from Industry 9, mine specifically being the torch hub, so my question is, can I somehow use I9 torch endcaps to convert my hub to thru-axle without forking out $70 for a whole new axle? By the way, big fan, love the info u put out to the community
The fox float ctd lever (blue) is stuck at trail mode and won't move to climb or descend mode. It came like that when I bought it. Would cleaning it help? If so how can disassembly those levers?
#askgmbntech
#askgmbntech
Hey guys,
recently I watched Henry's Tutorial on how to bleed a brake in real time.
It's a great video, yet there is one tiny little mistake which I see everyone doing or let's say I have an improvement.
Although it's great that he pulls some fluid out of the caliper itself, you usually don't want to do this with your fluid already in the syringe.
Reason being, mineral oil is hydrophobic, and lighter than water, so with a bit older fluid (not the dark used one) there is the possibility of pulling water in your mineral oil and Pumping it back in again.
More time consuming but better, use an empty syringe and pull some older fluid out, close the bleedcaliper, and then get some fresh fluid in the cleaned or a dry syringe.
Then put the tube on and open the valve again.
If you have reasons why I am wrong I would be glad to hear an explanation.
I store the Bike vertically before I start the work so gravity pushes all the Water down and all the air up.
Big fan of the Show, and an Inspiration,
Thank you
Maik Eckert This is actually a good point, thanks. DOT brake fluids absorb the water and form a consistent solution within the system, meaning water doesn’t get to pool anywhere, so this only applies to mineral oil systems. Mineral oil doesn’t attract water, though, so the only water ingress points would be condensation in the reservoir, through seals and microscopic pores in the brake hoses, right? I’m guessing this is a negligible problem if you maintain your brakes well and relatively often, but a good tip to keep in mind if you’ve been running the same fluid for years.
@@CodSlap Exactly my Point, although you normally change your brake fluid if it's discoloured, water can get in your oil just from moisture which is in the oil itself, or if you get some air in your system this is possible as well, beside your points.
How do you fill the air in the front wheel?
I've got a Shimano Funnel, for bleeding, and mineral oil. I was wondering how i can improvise a serynge with a hose to push oil in the caliper. Can you recommend any serynge and hose diameter to use? Is this even possible? #askgmbntech
Spiry Lastname I support this question!
Spiry Lastname if you want to do a quick bleed just take the funnel and attach it to the lever and put some oil in the funnel, then squeeze the brakes and keep doing that until the air bubbles come out
Pharmacy for a syringe pet shop or some clear hose, or just buy a ezy bleed kit for 5 quid on ebay
JDM n Euro Mossy that wouldn’t work as all brands and their own sizing and thread of the hoses and funnels
Hello from Canada! I have a question about tuning a hardtail bike's feel. I have a Chromag Stylus 650b designed around 160mm fork. I am running a Fox 36 Grip 2, 30mm of headset spacers, a 35mm long stem and 25mm rise bars. I am 183cm and 70kg and the bike has 597mm stack and 465mm reach. I like a very lively front end, i.e., easy to pop up and bunny hop off weird root and general shenanigans but I am finding the only way I can achieve that feel is by over pressurising the air spring to like 85-90psi but this sacrifices handling at high speeds on rough terrain. I'm pretty strong but I just don't have the body weight to easily pull up with such a low (for the travel) stack. Would higher rise bars allow me to run lower pressures? Would a 38-40mm rise make enough of a difference? I have the rebound nearly fully open to keep the front end from feeling "dead" as I am a pretty light rider for my height. #askgmbntech
#askgmbntech I sent a jump and bottomed out my suspension.When i bottomed out my suspension the fork will click when it rebounds back up.Any recommendations
#askgmbntech Hi. I'd like to know, how big is the new Shimano 12 speed SLX SGS rear derailleur compared to the older 11 speed SLX RD-M7000 GS mech. I'm planning to upgrade my old 26er (2011 Giant Revel which I'm very attached to) and I'm a bit worried that with a larger mech the lower jockey wheel could be to close to the ground. Currently I run a 3x8 drivetrain with a Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 SGS rear mech. I'd be grateful for any help in this matter.
#askgmbntech I've got an SRAM NX Eagle cassette on my 4 month old bike and followed Park Tools gear/rear derailleur adjustment video to get my gears right. I set the H screw and the 1st shift (from the smallest sprocket to the next) properly, as per the video, but when I cycle the bigger sprockets I progressively hear the chain rubbing on the next biggest sprocket, and if I fix the bigger sprocket shifts and return to the smallest it almost falls off next to the frame! Is it possible that this happens because of a slight rear hanger bent? Any help would be appreciated as it drives me mad having to adjust the barrel constantly when riding!
try pressing a piece of spaghetti in the middle of its length vs pressing at a joint between two pieces, then think how much force the damper mount must react then ask yourself why placing it in the middle of the downtube is the most optimised position. just think about all that unwanted compliance in the frame because of how you're reacting the force. also regarding shock placement you might run into issues with cavitation etc if shocks are positioned upside down
take all marketing bs about suspension geometry with a pinch of salt. everyones c.g. position is different on the bike and everyone runs different tyres/pressures/fork & shock settings/drivetrain combos etc. etc...
look at pinkbikes latest huck test and see how much the tyre compresses/rebounds relative to the suspension. people are out there riding single pivot bikes and still having tonnes fun which is all that matters unless youre racing.
most riders dont even bother commiting a few days solid setting up their £700+ fork and shock!!!
if you think mountain bikes are highly engineered think again!
jacq it looked like in the pink bike video every frame flexed before the suspension traveled more than a cm. Quite a good video
#askgmbntech do volume reducers give you less travel. How does it work
Nope they don't reduce travel. Inside the fork is a chamber of air on one side that has a fixed total amount of air. The pressure x volume at the beginning of the stroke must equal the pressure x volume at the end of the stroke. If you reduce the volume using volume reducers then the pressure at the end of the stroke must be higher so satisfy this formula and thus preventing you from bottoming out as force = pressure x area (so force is increased). Hope this helps.
Niksuttelia no they don’t, basically it reduces the volume of the air chamber so as you go through the travel it gets stiffer and stiffer so you don’t always bottom out
#askgmbntech Hi guys. I dont really know what to do because my fork lockout on my rockshox pike rct3 doesnt do anything at all do you have any advice on trying to fix it or should i just leave it to the bike shop to do. Thanks
What year is the fork from? Very few modern forks have a full lockout mode where the fork doesnt move at all. The fork will always move in the "Firm" position, it just makes the fork stiffer.
Sounds like the same problem I have with a 2018 rockshox revelation forks. What we think of as lockout is really just maxing out the low speed compression. My fork is now full open regardless of where I set that compression dial. No one has been able to tell me whether it just needs a service or if the compression damping is broken. No one services suspension near where I live either. So I'm not sure what to do about it
Love u from India
Big fan of GmbH team
I have a 2019 full sus Merida 120, with SRAM GX Eagle gears. When I ride through vegetation (eg high grass) the rear derailleur gets pulled inte the spokes and bends. My question is two-fold: How can I prevent this from happening? And what’s the best way to fix it? Currently, I take the bike home, put it in the bike stand, shift to the highest gear, and try to bend the jockey wheels back by hand. I’m worried that my treament will wear out the derailler and make something snap. #askgmbntech
Sounds like your derailleur hanger might be bent. Yes, doing this will wear out the derailleur early, make sure to check your high and low limit screws as well.
#askgmbntech hey Harry I recently got a bike for Christmas and I had to put the bars the pedals and the front wheel on and I noticed wen I wheelied my front wheel would stop so I checked it and I loosened the bolts and held in he front brake and I would tighten the bolts back up but there would still be rubbing on the disk so I got a flat head and put even space between the pads by pushing them open and putting the wheel back on but I noticed that when I pressed my front brake the lever would just go to the bar and wen I let go the pads would just go back to how they were how do I fix this
bigtruck guy my front brake shouldn’t need bleeding when I get it out of the box should it
#askgmbntech i broke my magura mt5 twice and it cost for me 60€ fore one brake i have combinate the magure brake with a shimano bl mt200.
It works fine but is it good fore the brake ?
Claudiu Gemanar I can tell you right now that you'll likely be okay for a while but once you decide to have the brake fully serviced in a few years, there might be some noticeable wear on the brake caliper. it's generally just a good idea to stick with what the manufacturer uses as the brake is designed to work specifically for THAT fluid and not any other kind. with that being said, I'm sure itll be more than useable for the foreseeable future. you could also just buy the fluid (royal blood) from maguras site as its not very expensive at all
@@dash0173 ok thank you 🙏🙏😀
@@claudiugemanar6424 I know a semi pro ride and a few guys how built their own bikes. And the say there is no noticeable abuse. The only difference is the better feeling.
@@lorenz9956 A ok thank you and they haven't any problems with it?
#askgmbntech Can I place all spacers on my steering tube under the handlebar and only go with the cap on the top? Or should you have at least one "spacer" (forgot the word for it) on the top of the handlebar and then the cap? I'm wondering since I've never seen anyone go with just the cap on the top before and don't know if it's safe or not.
cap straight on to the stem is fine and very normal on hybrid/commuter bikes.
@@judechandler5102 Thank you, it's a trail bike I'm owning, still safe to do so? :)
@@Lfomod1Dubstep any bike really. have fun!
@@judechandler5102 Awesome, thanks for the answer!
@@Lfomod1Dubstep Just make sure the top of the steerer is only around 5mm lower than the top of the stem. If you have the steerer too far down in the stem you wont get the correct clamping pressure and you are at risk of the stem twisting on the steerer while riding which will end with a nasty crash
Have u guy tried the megneg yet
C higs mtb they made a video on it
#askgmbntech I’m currently looking at the 2020 Norco sight a3 and I have noticed that because it’s the cheapest model the shock doesn’t have a piggyback. Will this affect dampening compared to a piggyback and/or robustness of the shock? Thanks.
it will affect damping only very slightly. Piggyback resevoirs increase the oil volume in the shock which allows better damping control and reduces temperature related changes to damping. It wont affect the robustness at all, its one less thing to service and go wrong so your reliabilty increases reallt. www.bikeradar.com/features/trail-tech-what-type-of-rear-shock-is-right-for-you/
RamenNoodles22 thanks, that’s really good to know!
Can I install 54t ratchet without changing the hub? I have a Canyon Spectral AL 6.0 2019 with a dt 1900 set of wheels and I think a dt 350 hub.
Paran01ac no, the web says a dt m1900 has a 370 hub with pawls, not 350. Only if you have a 350 hub could you just swap for a 54t ratchet. If you had a 350 hub it’s an easy job to do, if you yank on the cassette you can get the freehub to pop right out.
@@jonathanzappala thank you so much for the answer, would you recommend a dt 350 hub? Or is 240 better? What hub would you buy yourself in that situation? Thanks.
Paran01ac Paran01ac I have 350 hubs on my bike. They cost less, and the only difference is weight and stainless steel bearings in the 240. If you buy the straight pull 350 hubs, the front hub almost weighs the same as the 240. It’s because the 350 hubs are forged and 240 are cnc’d. It wasn’t worth the extra money for a little weight to me.
@@jonathanzappala thank you a lot for clearing everything! You're the best. I'll order 350 and a ratchet soon.
Paran01ac I would check the dt Swiss spoke calculator too, it can tell you if you can use the same spoke length. Otherwise you would have to buy new spokes and then your better off just getting a new wheel.
I have a Cube Hanzz 190 27.5 and am very interested in trying a 29er up front. Will putting 180mm 29er fork and 29er wheel mess with the geometry too much or is this a good idea? Bear in mind that this bike can take a 200mm fork. #askgmbntech
#askgmbntech. Hi guys I just accidentally put lube on my disc will that contaminate the pads and do they need replacement ??
🤣🤣🤣 #clickbait.
But seriously... if you really did do that throw away the rotor throw away the pads you will never get the oil residue off either surface
@@archetypex65 Just in case this is a serious comment... Nonsense! Meths/Isopropyl/alcahol/acetone etc will remove oil from the discs easily. Pads may need replacing if they;ve been contaminated, but cleaning with solvent as above and then rubbing with abrasive paper may rescue them if they are contaminated and sintered (Doddy did a bit about this).
Light sandpaper and alcohol
Yeah the new Zipp wheels are single wall. Much cheaper to manufacture and still sold at a premium price.
It's BS.
Yeah they lost me when I found that out. I don't mind paying a premium but I expect a premium product. That's a quick way to ruin your business.
@@topspot4834
That's bike tech and trends in a nutshell.
#askgmbntech I mistakenly bought a Sram boost 1x crankset for my older non-boost bike. It has a direct mount chainring. Can I get an offset chainring to get the chain line back to 49mm?
Sam Smith yes, you just need to buy a 6mm offset chainring. The boost chainring is 3mm offset
#AskGMBNTech Here goes my odd question! Here in France we get the brakes mixed up with UK. But it sounds more logical in France where you get rear derailleur and brake on the right side and front derailleur and brake on the left side. Is there a good reason for this or is it just UK wanting to do things differently (like driving on the wrong side of the road)? Cheers ;)
In USA we set up our bicycles the same way as you. The UK way makes sense if you ride motorcycles though. As far as i know, motorcycles have front brake on the right hand and clutch on the left.
Actually (and I'm French too), it seems like we do it the wrong way... If you compare to motorcycle, all around the world the front brake is under the right hand. And on bycicle, I think we might be the only country that do front brake to the left? Might be wrong though.
Australia is like moto. Front brake on the right. I couldn’t imagine trying to ride it the other way around and trying to switch from bike to moto.
#askgmbntech: the compression damper of my rockshox revelation fork on my 2018 nukeproof scout does nothing at all. Even from brand new, this problem used to happen only once in a while but now the fork is fully open no matter what i set the compression dial to. Will a service remedy this? Thanks!
I think this is a known issue. One of my friends has the same problem on his specialized levo, also with revelation fork
Alright. Is it known to be a repairable issue or just known. In other words is it just a wierd design that gets gummed up and can be cleaned/repaired. Or is it that the revelation forks are rubbish so i will have to spend a bunch of money on a new fork if I want a functioning damper?
Sounds like a normal functioning Rockshox
@@DM-hw4cr not true, many of the rockshox shocks are really good and in the end it is a matter of prefference between fox & rockshox.
@@ianholmquist8492 I believe you can buy a new and better dampener :)). But the original one is shit
#askgmbntech
Hi Doddy/Henry, looking for some advice. I have a 2018 Specialized Stumpjumper with a 'RockShox Monarch RT3, Rx Trail Tune, AUTOSAG, rebound and 3-position compression adjust, 197x48mm'. I wanted to upgrade the shock but understand the size is custom to Specialized and newer shocks don't come in the necessary size as Specialized have made their newer bikes conform to standard sizing. Is there any way to fit a newer standard size shock (200x50mm for example) to my bike? Thanks Scott
That's why specialized went back to standard sizing in 2019
#askgmbntech My shock ( Fox DPX2) is slightly to large for my frame (Giant Reign X) so the shock is always slightly compressed. What kind of damage will this do to the shock? Thanks.
Mastersaint XD won’t do any damage to the shock but it will reduce the travel.
It will make the first part of the travel quite stiff so your in for a harsh ride.
Unless you just mean the sag which wouldn’t change anything, to fix this bump up your pressure a bit
Bikeable yeah it’s not the sag. The shock is 100% of the time slightly compressed because of the linkage. Thanks for your input!
#askgmbntech
I want to build up my own dual suspension bike. I am willing to spend the money on a frame such as a Santa Cruz because of the lifetime warranty and keep the bike for a very long time (10+ years). My only concern is that would the trends and standards change too much over time and force me to change frame due to the sizes not being made anymore, eg threaded BB’s and the current boost spacing. Or should I buy a cheaper FS frame and replace more often?
#askgmbntech I bought an older full suspension with an upper an lower air chamber but I don't understand how it works. Can you explain the difference between dual chamber shocks and modern ones?
#askgmbntech can i replace my not very good sram nx 11 speed as soon as it wear out with a Shimano XT? My bike is a cube reaction TM pro 2019 with a cube MZ5R hub. Will the microspline freehub fit?
@askgmbntech i baught a canyon spectral 5.0 ab they sad that it will come on the 12.12.2019, so i waitet till the day the bike should come but it don't come. 1 1/2 monthe later it also wasnt there, and now my question: what shell i do ??
#askgmbntech I have a 120mm xcm suntour coil sprung fork and it barely compresses down and is very stiff. Is there any way I can improve it?
It's a feature
@@Pienimusta what do you mean?
@@joelcrabbe5499 You can buy entry level air fork.
@@Pienimusta yes I know but I want to see if there is any way to improve it
#askgmbntech I have a freehub driver question: I have a DT Swiss M1900 wheetset with their 350 3-pawl XD driver on it for a SRAM GX groupset. I would love to upgrade the freehub driver to a 6-pawl due to the lack of precise engagement but I'm having trouble identifying one that will mate with the hub ratchet drive ring. Is this possible? or do I need to replace the entire wheelset. Thank you!!
Jesse Nixon a DT 350 hub does not use pawls, it has a the ratchet, so that’s not the one you have. The web says you have a 370 hub. As far as I know dt Swiss only makes 3 pawl hubs for the pawl versions, not 6. More pawls will not make the hub any faster to engage, it would need more notches in the hub shell for that. So yes you would need a new hub to get faster engagement.
@@jonathanzappala Thanks for the reply, and that's what I've come to understand in the last few days. When you search Drivers online they look so similar you get convinced its a direct swap but it apparently isn't that simple!
I think they don't do reviews because of sponsor deals. If they review their sponsors product it would look, and probably be, very biased. And if they review product from other brands, it wouldn't make the sponsors unhappy.
It's a business after all.
#askgmbntech What pressure should I store my forks at? And my 2014 fox 34 forks have massive stiction on the beginning of the first stroke only, afterwards are fine. Is this normal and will it go away with use( never used in their life yet)?
Thanks
Store them in same pressure as you ride them, should make no difference. If the forks feel sticky, do a basic service. Clean them and change new oils. Also worth checking is the air chamber (same chamber where you put your air in, under air cap), it might too much grease in, which most likely will have similar effect.
Pop it upside down for 30 minutes or so to circulate the oil after sitting for a while
@@DM-hw4cr cheers
#askgmbntech my rear tire (Nobby Nic) is more worn out than the front. I want to move to a faster rolling tire/less knobly. Do I change the rear tire or the front tire? (Cube stereo hybrid)
I was looking for similar advice last year, and was told the general rule is to have more grip on the front tire - if you lose grip at the front the consequences are pretty bad, but not so bad if your back tire has a bit of slippage. I followed that advice, got a good chunky front tire, and it made a noticable difference.
Swap out the rear to new one for sure and keep the old front if it's fine.
I think it’s all about personal preference
#askgmbntech. I ride a size XL marin hawk hill 3. I have few questions. 1 can i go up travel on the forks i currently running rockshox revelation 120mm? 2 can i turn the rear shock upside down? 3 why does my rear break keep screeching and have brown mark on the inside of the disc ? Thanks and love to show
lee sj My 19’ HH came with 130mm fork and i’ve seen a few that people swapped to 140mm with no problems. You must have an 18’ which came with the 120mm I think.
Sounds like your rear brake pads have work down to the metal. You need to change these right away and depending on how long you've been riding metal on metal, you will probably need a new rotor as well.
Yes and yes if it fits
#AskGmbnTech
How to safely cut carbon handle bars and avoid carbon dust (already have the CS-1)???
Luke Downey do it outside in a well ventilated environment, wear one of those white filter masks that they sell at hardware stores and get cutting.
If you didn’t do this just make sure you don’t breath it in because it can cause bad lung diseases
#askgmbntech hi Doddy/Henry I recently saw a hydraulic 1x13 drivetrain and I was wondering what are benefits that you get with a hydraulic actuated system rather than cable and is it worth it for the price.
It's likely so they could get around the multiple Shimano, SRAM, box patents. Hydraulic will mean that there is no cable stretch so could prevent bad shifting for a bit longer, but it also means you need to bleed the fluid ever know and again. The hydraulic derailleur also has the nice feature to easily lock it into one position if something does snap with the hose. Mechanical derailleurs with a cable can be limited by set screws, but often they don't have enough adjustment in them to fix it in any gear. Hope this helps!
I'm planning to add a dropper post on my full sus. Cable entry's on the left of the frame and the lever on the left of the hb, how can I neatly cable manage the cable if they're on the same side of the bike? #AskGMBNTech
waldenjay assuming you are not running a front derailleur: starting at lever on left grip run housing in front and around the right side of head tube. Also assuming internal routing and a cable stop on the right side of the down tube close to where it meets the head tube. The cable will cross inside and exit the down tube at the bottom left Then a short housing bit up into the left side of the seat tube.
@@batterybuilding My frame only has 1 cable entry and that's on the left. Both the RD and Rear brake cables are routed externally.
27.5 front with 26 rear wound it work well
The mullet👌 yes, depending what your riding style is and what you want out of the bike.
#askgmbntech
I'm looking to buy the canyon neuron but I'm 5 foot 5, according to canyons website I would be a small wich come with 27.5 wheels. I would really prefer 29ers, would you suggest to but the small and then put 29er wheelset on it, our just upsize to the size medium that comes with 29ers on it? Thanks
By how much are you off the bigger size?
If it's a centimeter or two, you dan get away with shortening the stem or more backsweep on the bars.
If you have shorter legs, this doesn't work.
29er on a 27,5 can work but probably doesn't work, the chainstay could be too short, the bb rises, an it would feel off.
29ers roll over everything. My girlfriend rode a 26, then a 27.5 and now wants a 29er. She is 5.7. A 29er is harder to get moving but the additional rotational weight of the wheels helps to keep that momentum and even makes the bike feel way more stable. The Canyon is a great bike. I just got an XL Neuron AL 7.0. Its an incredible value and a blast to ride.
BTW - there are standover issues sizing up on this bike (Neuron), FYI.
Having a frame that fits you correctly is much more important than the wheel size. Go to a bike shop and test a 29er and see if its suitable for you
@@RamenNoodles22 I currently have a 29er stumpy and I love it
4:28 is why you came here, thank me later.
No
#askgmbntech Is it worth buying a good hardtail or a used not so good full squish?
Thank you and keep making great videos
Always worth buying a quality hardtail. Hardtails look better, help build your skills better. They are just better. Look at the gmbn hardtail videos with blake in them if you need more convincing.
I'd go for the good hardtail, full squishes have more parts that can fail. If the bike has a sketchy spec to begin with, some part will probably fail and you couldn't ride unlike with the hardtail.
hardtail any day! Hardtail every day!
It depends. If a "not so good" bike is $3000 or $800. If it's the first, I'd go squish, if it's the latter, I'd go hardtail.
Stop hating on his hair
His hair is pretty fresh