I have found I have to replace the MAF, IAC and Throttle Position Sensor on all my 20+ year old vehicles. That being said, I have found the after market MAF's to be highly defective.
If you have a 1998 Ford ranger with a manual transmission and a 4 cylinder with idle problems is to disconnect the iac. Idle sits about 750 and runs fine. Spent a few hundred funding out that answe
you mention a spray that will re-coat the throttle body, what is that exactly? I can't seem to find it online. This is for a friend who used carb cleaner on his t-body, not for me because I would never do something like that
It is wd40 with Teflon. I was told it really is not a hard requirement, but a recommendation. If you do apply it, make sure it does not get into the upper intake. The things you learn overtime.
What could cause a 3 minute high idle after start up, summer or winter, everytime a warm engine sits for 10 minutes on a 2007 ford ranger 3 litre v6. Once it drops to normal, around 750 rpm, it stays there. It is only at start up is does this. Scan tool shows nothing.
This is normal for a Ranger with 3.0. They start and idle between 1000 and 1200 RPMs for about 5 minutes. Or longer if the weather is cold. When my Thermostat was stock open, it would sometime idle high for longer periods of time.
Just bought an 06 ranger with 75000 miles. Occasionally when I start it, it will run at 1200 rpms for 5-10 secs then come back to 500. Idle problem or ranger thing
Hey man im fighting this high idle issue myself and so far i have performed smoke test and found no leaks, replaced the IAC valve (motocraft), PCV, and cleaned the MAF. Idles still too high for my liking (1200-1300 warmed up). Starting to think when i cleaned my throttle body a while back i might of stripped that teflon coating on the TB. To do that water test did you take the throttle body off and just put water on top of that valve while it was shut to see if water leaked by? Your input would be appreciated thanks for this video!
@@chasingmustangs I don’t recall oddly enough, it’s my fishing/camping rig so I don’t drive it often. I work on it here and there but I didn’t notice the high idle until a couple months ago. I know I cleaned the throttle body probably 6 months back but never really used the truck much between then. Thinking the throttle body is my problem but I want to do that water test you were talking about. I’m guessing I just pour some water on top on the butterfly?
There is an idle screw on the throttle body. Its painted blue to show the location from the factory. If the screw is not aligned with the blue paint, then at one point it was adjusted. I would check that first.
@@chasingmustangs Throttle screw was at factory position. You think it’s worth testing the throttle Body with water? I definitely cleaned the Valve with a wire brush and parts cleaner not knowing about the Teflon coat
Too hard to see and confusing not knowing what parts your actually working on at the time. To much going on and adding music doesn't help when putting things together when know one knows what's going to begin with, just more confusion onto confusion and can't see anything, might as well be blank video with just talking and music.... I don't know what I just watched beside someone take parts off randomly and put back on and now look it just ends with no conclusion.
I have a 01 ranger with high idle . It started at 2000 rpms so I replaced the iac and the tps sensor it’s now at 1500 replaced a collapse vacuum hose and nothing seems to help. I cleaned the throttle body and the maf seems clean and recently replaced. Any tips? A fuse?
@@chasingmustangs no just the fron under the throttle body since it was collapsed (the hose) the back seems fine . I do have an exhaust leak before one of the cats i don’t know if that will cause it
I have a 90 Ford ranger 2.3 mo straight drive had a bad obd sensor when I bought the truck. Idols real bad. I'm going to check the throttle body position sensor. .
I know this is late but maybe I’ll get a response, when I’m driving I will go from 2nd to 3rd gear and when I press in the clutch to go into 3rd gear my rpms shoot up. Happens when changing into any gear to be honest, any idea of what it could be ??
CRC throttle body cleaner has sealant n thr formula. I recommend trying that first, if it doesn't work, you can use WD40 with Teflan. Make sure not to spray it directly into the engine. The throttle valves should be closed and clean before applying.
Did you have a check engine light before replacing all those parts? I have the same problem no engine light no codes. I still need to change the MAS & PCV valve. I changed the pvc valve about 2yrs ago.
It`s amazing how these videos hide on you tube, I just found this one after making good head way on my 02 Ranger 3.0. Had a miss fire 301 that moved to 304 and rough idle. I replaced the IAC today and my miss fire is gone but now have a high idle condition. I have a MAF on order but have to wait 5 days to save $90 on a OEM part. I`ll post back next week if that does the fix of if it`s a faulty IAC from Auto Zone.
Well I`m back , the miss fire or rough condition came back and USPS tells me that my MAF will be a week late at least. And of course the check engine light is on with short term flashing at the top end of each acceleration. After a bit of checking I come to realize that I had bought the wrong IAC for it U code -V code thing. For my truck that a story of it`s own but I replace it with the V code model witch has different ohm`s [ If you ever get checking you`ll find that a lot of the parts interchange ] but of course right off the engine idled more properly, P.S. the work was done yesterday. But still have a slight idle issue but not near that it was but it may be because of a bad MAF. So then I cleared the codes and have driven 50 + miles so far and no engine light so far but still a little rough running with a very slight bump bump still while driving. No codes so far. But that brings me to phase 3 of my intended work and thats a bad check valve on the fuel pump pressure checks at 65 at idle and 65 at constant 2000 rpm can`t go much higher because of the rev limiter. As to that my brain is doing flip flops as about a week ago I watched a vid of a guy with an 03 3.0 ranger had pretty much the exact same symptoms as mine rough idle, missfire, occasional light rumble driving and short term flashing cel. He didnt state a diagnosis but just guessed it was the fuel pump and replaced it and all issues fixed. So since I have to replace it I hope for final fix but have to wait on parts to save big $ instead of the parts store so when it happens I`ll post again.
@@chasingmustangs Engine light stayed off for 75 miles then got an occasional 6 blinks at end of throttle then off with no light staying lit.Then next it flashed at end of throttle but not every time and light stayed on got 2 p304 codes and a p316 witch have been the norm so far.It may have been because I used the heater i the morn the A/C kicks on and off i that mode and I used the A/C today but didn`t have near as much flashing today . Note my A/C compressor is going bad I believe [ rattles like marbles half the time ]. Did have some funky pulsating idle at a light today but still looks like it`s going to be a wait for the new MAF unless I take the loss and buy one else where. Do`es idle better if I unplug the A/C. Maybe the A/C is causing an electrical surge causing the miss fire or alternator is not preforming at higher rpm. read that in an article last night. hard to test an alternator some times one. once I took to an alternator to an alternator shop and they tested good on it I said no way and replaced it and problem solved.
Until I replaced the IAC, MAF and TPS, I had high and rought idle issues. I did research and the Ford Ranger 3.0 has known issue of these parts failing. I would recommend replacing the TPS. If that does not solve it, clean or replace the IAC. If that does not work, then replace the MAF. You can return the parts at Autozone, if it does not fix your idle issues. The computer is too primitive on the older rangers, to help determine the issue.
@@chasingmustangs yes it's showing it needs one, I just got back to it yesterday evening, it's my daily and I stop messing with it sometimes but it's getting there lol
Mine was idle control valve 40 bucks on line I unhooked it idle went down but ran like crap min I plugged old one back in idle went off the charts so mine fixed no idea what hes doin
I work on outboard engines and sometimes the ones with TPS and Throttle body needed to do a link and sync because the IAC only controls up to a certain RPM and then the throttle body takes care of the rest of the throttle arc. It’s not as hard as it seems but you need to have a connection so that you can use a multimeter to see how much output the IAC is outting out and the. Adjust your throttle body after. We had a certain process for this outlined in the manual I’m sure that Foard must have one similar to this. That being said I would imagine that the higher RPM is do not to do that being out of sync but to something else like a faulty sensor or air leak as you have mentioned. I only mention this because you could be chasing a rabbit down the hole if these two things are not in adjustment. The throttle body and IAC need to be in sync on Yamaha 4 stroke outboard engines and I’m guessing maybe this might a,so have to be adjusted correctly in the 4.0 ohc also. Thanks for making this video. It’s helpful.
It was the Throttle Position Sensor that was bad. I have owned nothing but Ford my whole life and I have learned to replace all the parts in the video, when the car gets over 15 years old.
Changing all my old parts after putting new timing belt on my 2000 ford ranger. Great video! Thanks!
I have found I have to replace the MAF, IAC and Throttle Position Sensor on all my 20+ year old vehicles. That being said, I have found the after market MAF's to be highly defective.
If you have a 1998 Ford ranger with a manual transmission and a 4 cylinder with idle problems is to disconnect the iac. Idle sits about 750 and runs fine. Spent a few hundred funding out that answe
thank you sir
Talk to much get to the point
Yes!
My ranger is idling in 2k rpm when turning ac on, what's the problem sir?
Stop rambling and get to it.. dont care about your wife's SUV, or that you're giving the truck to your daughter. Ramble ramble.
Nobody gives a shit about your mustang or daughters driving or you smacking after every sentence.
you mention a spray that will re-coat the throttle body, what is that exactly? I can't seem to find it online. This is for a friend who used carb cleaner on his t-body, not for me because I would never do something like that
It is wd40 with Teflon. I was told it really is not a hard requirement, but a recommendation. If you do apply it, make sure it does not get into the upper intake. The things you learn overtime.
Thank You. I will try this on my 2001 ranger.
loud music and no action. why the loud music?
I stopped putting music in my videos several months ago. Lots of complaints.
What could cause a 3 minute high idle after start up, summer or winter, everytime a warm engine sits for 10 minutes on a 2007 ford ranger 3 litre v6. Once it drops to normal, around 750 rpm, it stays there. It is only at start up is does this. Scan tool shows nothing.
This is normal for a Ranger with 3.0. They start and idle between 1000 and 1200 RPMs for about 5 minutes. Or longer if the weather is cold. When my Thermostat was stock open, it would sometime idle high for longer periods of time.
replace your thermostat. it may be staying open.
Thanks
I'm from Texas too
But now resident of Kansas
Just bought an 06 ranger with 75000 miles. Occasionally when I start it, it will run at 1200 rpms for 5-10 secs then come back to 500. Idle problem or ranger thing
That is normal for a ranger.
Hey man im fighting this high idle issue myself and so far i have performed smoke test and found no leaks, replaced the IAC valve (motocraft), PCV, and cleaned the MAF. Idles still too high for my liking (1200-1300 warmed up). Starting to think when i cleaned my throttle body a while back i might of stripped that teflon coating on the TB. To do that water test did you take the throttle body off and just put water on top of that valve while it was shut to see if water leaked by?
Your input would be appreciated thanks for this video!
Was it idling high before? Or did it just start happening?
@@chasingmustangs I don’t recall oddly enough, it’s my fishing/camping rig so I don’t drive it often. I work on it here and there but I didn’t notice the high idle until a couple months ago. I know I cleaned the throttle body probably 6 months back but never really used the truck much between then. Thinking the throttle body is my problem but I want to do that water test you were talking about. I’m guessing I just pour some water on top on the butterfly?
There is an idle screw on the throttle body. Its painted blue to show the location from the factory. If the screw is not aligned with the blue paint, then at one point it was adjusted. I would check that first.
@@chasingmustangs will do thanks
@@chasingmustangs Throttle screw was at factory position. You think it’s worth testing the throttle Body with water? I definitely cleaned the Valve with a wire brush and parts cleaner not knowing about the Teflon coat
Ok in dist past I've heard that cars can or do have a low and high idle.
I have a 99 4.0l frd ranger what rpms should it idle at?
After the warmup process completes, idle is between 550 and 650.
What one item fixed the problem?
Throttle position sensor.
@@chasingmustangs
Thanks.
Too hard to see and confusing not knowing what parts your actually working on at the time. To much going on and adding music doesn't help when putting things together when know one knows what's going to begin with, just more confusion onto confusion and can't see anything, might as well be blank video with just talking and music.... I don't know what I just watched beside someone take parts off randomly and put back on and now look it just ends with no conclusion.
I have a 01 ranger with high idle . It started at 2000 rpms so I replaced the iac and the tps sensor it’s now at 1500 replaced a collapse vacuum hose and nothing seems to help. I cleaned the throttle body and the maf seems clean and recently replaced. Any tips? A fuse?
Did you replace the pcv valve on the back of the intake?
@@chasingmustangs no just the fron under the throttle body since it was collapsed (the hose) the back seems fine . I do have an exhaust leak before one of the cats i don’t know if that will cause it
@@ivanramirez4838 If the cat is leaking before the second O2 sensor, you will have issues. You might want to wrap the leak and see what happens.
@@chasingmustangs okay thanks you so much I will try that when I get home
@ivanramirez4838 did you figure it out?
keep changing part until runs good...
Fixing with the wallet, lol
🤣 that's what I'm going to do
I have a 90 Ford ranger 2.3 mo straight drive had a bad obd sensor when I bought the truck. Idols real bad. I'm going to check the throttle body position sensor.
.
90% of the time the IAC and TPS are the issue.
I know this is late but maybe I’ll get a response, when I’m driving I will go from 2nd to 3rd gear and when I press in the clutch to go into 3rd gear my rpms shoot up. Happens when changing into any gear to be honest, any idea of what it could be ??
Sounds like you need to replace your Throttle Position Sensor. It's a cheap part and easy to replace.
A simple Question -?
The Name of The Glue - You Were Using -?
Blue lock tite
Do you where I could buy that coating spray for the throttle body ??
CRC throttle body cleaner has sealant n thr formula. I recommend trying that first, if it doesn't work, you can use WD40 with Teflan. Make sure not to spray it directly into the engine. The throttle valves should be closed and clean before applying.
Did you have a check engine light before replacing all those parts? I have the same problem no engine light no codes. I still need to change the MAS & PCV valve. I changed the pvc valve about 2yrs ago.
No check engine lights. The engine would just randomly idle really high and some times idle very rough.
It`s amazing how these videos hide on you tube, I just found this one after making good head way on my 02 Ranger 3.0. Had a miss fire 301 that moved to 304 and rough idle. I replaced the IAC today and my miss fire is gone but now have a high idle condition. I have a MAF on order but have to wait 5 days to save $90 on a OEM part. I`ll post back next week if that does the fix of if it`s a faulty IAC from Auto Zone.
Well I`m back , the miss fire or rough condition came back and USPS tells me that my MAF will be a week late at least. And of course the check engine light is on with short term flashing at the top end of each acceleration. After a bit of checking I come to realize that I had bought the wrong IAC for it U code -V code thing. For my truck that a story of it`s own but I replace it with the V code model witch has different ohm`s [ If you ever get checking you`ll find that a lot of the parts interchange ] but of course right off the engine idled more properly, P.S. the work was done yesterday. But still have a slight idle issue but not near that it was but it may be because of a bad MAF. So then I cleared the codes and have driven 50 + miles so far and no engine light so far but still a little rough running with a very slight bump bump still while driving. No codes so far. But that brings me to phase 3 of my intended work and thats a bad check valve on the fuel pump pressure checks at 65 at idle and 65 at constant 2000 rpm can`t go much higher because of the rev limiter. As to that my brain is doing flip flops as about a week ago I watched a vid of a guy with an 03 3.0 ranger had pretty much the exact same symptoms as mine rough idle, missfire, occasional light rumble driving and short term flashing cel. He didnt state a diagnosis but just guessed it was the fuel pump and replaced it and all issues fixed. So since I have to replace it I hope for final fix but have to wait on parts to save big $ instead of the parts store so when it happens I`ll post again.
@@gunfisher4661 Let me know what you find out.
@@chasingmustangs Engine light stayed off for 75 miles then got an occasional 6 blinks at end of throttle then off with no light staying lit.Then next it flashed at end of throttle but not every time and light stayed on got 2 p304 codes and a p316 witch have been the norm so far.It may have been because I used the heater i the morn the A/C kicks on and off i that mode and I used the A/C today but didn`t have near as much flashing today . Note my A/C compressor is going bad I believe [ rattles like marbles half the time ]. Did have some funky pulsating idle at a light today but still looks like it`s going to be a wait for the new MAF unless I take the loss and buy one else where. Do`es idle better if I unplug the A/C. Maybe the A/C is causing an electrical surge causing the miss fire or alternator is not preforming at higher rpm. read that in an article last night. hard to test an alternator some times one. once I took to an alternator to an alternator shop and they tested good on it I said no way and replaced it and problem solved.
@@gunfisher4661 thanks for the info
A1C! This man has cholesterol on the brain 😂
Diabetes*
You talk to much...get to the point... summary..10mins video done...
Almost at the end of the video, will you ever tell us what was causing the high idle?? 😏
Until I replaced the IAC, MAF and TPS, I had high and rought idle issues. I did research and the Ford Ranger 3.0 has known issue of these parts failing. I would recommend replacing the TPS. If that does not solve it, clean or replace the IAC. If that does not work, then replace the MAF. You can return the parts at Autozone, if it does not fix your idle issues. The computer is too primitive on the older rangers, to help determine the issue.
@@chasingmustangs maf is the next thing I guess, already replaced the other two, would the 02 sensor's cause this idle problem maybe?
@@mikeharris8365 If the O2 sensor is bad, it will throw a code. Did you check for any error codes?
@@chasingmustangs yes it's showing it needs one, I just got back to it yesterday evening, it's my daily and I stop messing with it sometimes but it's getting there lol
Mine was idle control valve 40 bucks on line I unhooked it idle went down but ran like crap min I plugged old one back in idle went off the charts so mine fixed no idea what hes doin
I cannot see what you're doing what is it
I replaced the MAF and TPS in the video.
IAC. idle air control
TPS. throttle position sensor
Same problem ... exactly.
Hopefully this helps you resolve your issue
I work on outboard engines and sometimes the ones with TPS and Throttle body needed to do a link and sync because the IAC only controls up to a certain RPM and then the throttle body takes care of the rest of the throttle arc. It’s not as hard as it seems but you need to have a connection so that you can use a multimeter to see how much output the IAC is outting out and the. Adjust your throttle body after. We had a certain process for this outlined in the manual I’m sure that Foard must have one similar to this. That being said I would imagine that the higher RPM is do not to do that being out of sync but to something else like a faulty sensor or air leak as you have mentioned.
I only mention this because you could be chasing a rabbit down the hole if these two things are not in adjustment. The throttle body and IAC need to be in sync on Yamaha 4 stroke outboard engines and I’m guessing maybe this might a,so have to be adjusted correctly in the 4.0 ohc also. Thanks for making this video. It’s helpful.
Thanks for the information, much appreciated
It makes my shin crawl when a supposedly man calls a truck a car. Please turn in your man card.
why talking about your family life and not get to the point of the truck problem .
This is a very old video and I no longer do that. Sorry
TOO MUCH MUSIC!!!
This is an older video and I no longer put music in my videos.
Blah blah blah, do you have to!!!!!! Stay Focused Bro!!!!
Bullshit to much.
Are you a diabetic?
Lol, no. Just gets very hot is Texas.
@@chasingmustangs I asked because A1C is a measurement of blood glucose, and something closely monitored by diabetics (ideally).
@@Christodoulos-J I did not know that. I meant to say IAC.
Long winded
Have a better video to many moving no a stable 👎
Wow you talked so much about other crap. I just left. Don't need your life story ty
Old video, don't talk like that anymore to start videos.
God I hate my piece of shit Ford Ranger.
Haha Same
You replaced everything so you don't know exactly what fixed the problem
It was the Throttle Position Sensor that was bad. I have owned nothing but Ford my whole life and I have learned to replace all the parts in the video, when the car gets over 15 years old.