Thanks for the video. Nice job. Was getting ready to do this exact project, replace the frame and keep the existing door. Have always installed prebuilt doors, have never replaced just the frame and threshold and was unsure about recessing the hinges in the exact location to keep everything lined up. I have a couple routers, I'll pick up a template and give it a go. Also unsure about whether to install the frame separately then installing the door. Did you install the threshold onto the door assembly or have it installed first? Was planning on installing the new threshold first but unsure how unstable the door assembly while moving it without the threshold in place. Maybe I'm overthinking it as usual. But I usually try to get my ducks in a row and a plan before I tackle a job...which leads to overthinking. Lol
On this project the threshold was replaced after the door was installed. This was do to the type of threshold being used. Often I will build a prehung unit and install just as you have done before
I just had to say, why couldn’t I’ve seen your video on the door before today, I just had a Home Depot Guy come out and put new door in , cause I’ve never put a door in. It cost me 900 hundred bucks. Now I’m sick.
I am about to do the same thing to a back door in my house. I already have the PVC frame kit and molding kit. Should I build the frame with the door and threshold all attached and then install it in the opening as one solid unit? Or should I install the frame and threshold piece by piece and add the door last? I really wanted to see the part that you didn't end up recording. Great video by the way!
You got me at overhang... they will save you $$$$$. Ask me how I know. Did my front real nice like, did the back with metal roof sheets basically screwd in with a gutter. Spend the cash on a overhang rather than a door in the future😅.
Where can i get and what brand of mortise template were you using and also the bit you used, that would make it so much easier for me than trying to do it freehand. This is my last step before putting it all together. Thanks !!
Royal should send you … royalties because your video is much better than their directions which are not clear about assembling the frame before installing it. Those steps are hidden in the NOTCH FOR SILL section! Anyway, good job!
Thank you very much. I appreciate your kind words. I seriously dough Royal is even aware that this video exists. If this video helps people then I’m very pleased. Thanks again!
Fixing to attempt the same project only because I have a 44" door and the replacemnet is extremely high dollar. How much room did you all on the top and knob side beyond the measurement of the width of the door? To rephrase, if the existing door measured exactly 36", was the finished measurement a sixteenth, eighth wider? The part of the composite that holds the insulation allows for a fudge factor, just don't know what it should be to open/close without friction but yet seal. Also was the threshold cut down to the exact measurement of the top opening (36" plus fudge factor) or was the bottom cut out for the threshold which would be extremely hard to do and get good fit.
@@TheAlphaLoneWolf Not really knowing if I did it correct or not, I built the frame to fit the door on the ground on a flat surface. The threshold I purchased was adjustable (to a point) in height so I measured the height of the threashold at the mid point of adjustment, bottoming the threshold plate down, raising to max then went with the middle measurement. At the point I had the door unit built on the ground, door squared in the frame, I temporarily tacked boards in place to hold the unit together, remeasured height, cut bottom a bit (only after attempting to set in place verifying the need to cut) and then set in place and attached using the holes in the hinges. Them shimmed the other side and luckily it fit. Definitely much more time involved than buying a prefab unit but when one can't find the prefab unit at an affordable price it was worth the work. Saved me almost $1500 over the price of a special order unit including everything needed which involved two sets of frames as I had to buy the second set to get the 44" I needed. Foam sealant pretty much filled in the gaps once the door was in place and squared off to the opening/door.
I just realized that you didn't show the notching of the bottom of the jamb for the threshold. Darn, I could have used tips for that as I am dealing with a threshold that is already in place.
Well done Paw Paw, had to chuckle I have the same Sears router from the 70s, it too is still going strong!
Thank you, yep, the old routers are awesome
Paw Paw, I have to do the exact same thing for my garage. So glad I found your video!
Glad it was helpful! Take your time and you can do it
Great video it is always best to use a piece of drip cap/flashing on top of the brick moulding.
Yes, you are right. I normally do that.
Thank you for sharing all your fantastic tricks
My pleasure 😊. I’m happy to do it. I hope it helped you. Thanks for watching
Thank you for a very well done video. Covered everything I was wondering about to be able work on an old frame I have.
Awesome! Glad that the video helped you. Best of success on your project
Great video and explanation. I might have a jamb replacement job coming up. Cheers
Awesome! Best of success to you
@@PawPawsWorkShopI'm scared to even ask what these components cost you.
Thanks for the video. Nice job. Was getting ready to do this exact project, replace the frame and keep the existing door. Have always installed prebuilt doors, have never replaced just the frame and threshold and was unsure about recessing the hinges in the exact location to keep everything lined up. I have a couple routers, I'll pick up a template and give it a go. Also unsure about whether to install the frame separately then installing the door. Did you install the threshold onto the door assembly or have it installed first? Was planning on installing the new threshold first but unsure how unstable the door assembly while moving it without the threshold in place. Maybe I'm overthinking it as usual. But I usually try to get my ducks in a row and a plan before I tackle a job...which leads to overthinking. Lol
On this project the threshold was replaced after the door was installed. This was do to the type of threshold being used. Often I will build a prehung unit and install just as you have done before
Thank you paw
You are so welcome. Thanks for watching
Did you mount the door in the door Jam prior to mounting/slide in to the frameout opening?
I just had to say, why couldn’t I’ve seen your video on the door before today, I just had a Home Depot Guy come out and put new door in , cause I’ve never put a door in. It cost me 900 hundred bucks. Now I’m sick.
Wow, I wish you had seen the video and would have saved all that money. That’s crazy amount of money.
I am about to do the same thing to a back door in my house. I already have the PVC frame kit and molding kit. Should I build the frame with the door and threshold all attached and then install it in the opening as one solid unit? Or should I install the frame and threshold piece by piece and add the door last? I really wanted to see the part that you didn't end up recording. Great video by the way!
Build the entire unit. Make it as a prehung door unit. The part I did not film was the sliding ing the prehung unit into the opening
Great job!!
Thank you! Glad this helped you
Hi, I could not find the door casing kit on the company's website. Could you please leave a link to where you purchased it? Thank you.
You can also buy the individual pieces. I’m not seeing the kits in the stores any longer
Excellent video! Where did you get this door frame kit as I am unable to find it?
I got it from Home Depot. I have noticed that it’s much harder to find the kits. You can find the individual pieces and create your own kit
@@PawPawsWorkShopGreat. Thank you for the info.
You got me at overhang... they will save you $$$$$. Ask me how I know. Did my front real nice like, did the back with metal roof sheets basically screwd in with a gutter. Spend the cash on a overhang rather than a door in the future😅.
Great video
Thank you very much. I appreciate you visiting my channel
Where can i get and what brand of mortise template were you using and also the bit you used, that would make it so much easier for me than trying to do it freehand. This is my last step before putting it all together. Thanks !!
This mortise template is very very old and I sure that there are much improved versions on the market. I’m using a 1/2” straight bit.
Thanks , i found a Milescraft template that looks about the same with changeable sizes@@PawPawsWorkShop
would have been nice to know how to work the PVC without the specialty router.
No special tools required. PVC is soft and easier to work with than wood
Where did you purchase the door jam kit?
These are available at Home Depot and at Lowe’s. Most building materials companies and lumberyards should carry these as well
Thanks
Where did you buy the Brick Mold Door Set at?
The big box stores carry this. I got it from Home Depot
Thank you Paw Paw!
Royal should send you … royalties because your video is much better than their directions which are not clear about assembling the frame before installing it. Those steps are hidden in the NOTCH FOR SILL section! Anyway, good job!
Thank you very much. I appreciate your kind words. I seriously dough Royal is even aware that this video exists. If this video helps people then I’m very pleased. Thanks again!
Fixing to attempt the same project only because I have a 44" door and the replacemnet is extremely high dollar. How much room did you all on the top and knob side beyond the measurement of the width of the door? To rephrase, if the existing door measured exactly 36", was the finished measurement a sixteenth, eighth wider? The part of the composite that holds the insulation allows for a fudge factor, just don't know what it should be to open/close without friction but yet seal. Also was the threshold cut down to the exact measurement of the top opening (36" plus fudge factor) or was the bottom cut out for the threshold which would be extremely hard to do and get good fit.
An answer to this would certainly have been helpful.
@@TheAlphaLoneWolf Not really knowing if I did it correct or not, I built the frame to fit the door on the ground on a flat surface. The threshold I purchased was adjustable (to a point) in height so I measured the height of the threashold at the mid point of adjustment, bottoming the threshold plate down, raising to max then went with the middle measurement. At the point I had the door unit built on the ground, door squared in the frame, I temporarily tacked boards in place to hold the unit together, remeasured height, cut bottom a bit (only after attempting to set in place verifying the need to cut) and then set in place and attached using the holes in the hinges. Them shimmed the other side and luckily it fit. Definitely much more time involved than buying a prefab unit but when one can't find the prefab unit at an affordable price it was worth the work. Saved me almost $1500 over the price of a special order unit including everything needed which involved two sets of frames as I had to buy the second set to get the 44" I needed. Foam sealant pretty much filled in the gaps once the door was in place and squared off to the opening/door.
I just realized that you didn't show the notching of the bottom of the jamb for the threshold. Darn, I could have used tips for that as I am dealing with a threshold that is already in place.
Sorry, it was not shown because my battery died and I did not realize it. I was concentrating on getting it done.
Didn't show how to put the frame in place.
You did not show putting in the wedges to waterproof the bottom of the door. Without them the door will leak on an exposed door like this.
Yes, good point. Thank you for sharing.