Hey, I have a question for you -- this weekend I finally set up my old bench grinder with a buffing wheel, and I wondered what kind of rouge you use. I guess you can't really go back and forth between grits on the same wheel?
I apologize in advance for the "War & Peace" response (I'm probably saying a bunch of stuff you already know anyway). The green polishing compound I use in the videos is from woodcraft: www.woodcraft.com/products/green-chrome-oxide-compound-6-oz?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C5764196e69702d6593000317%2C5797917969702d0da2000417 I have other grades, but I almost never use them. I have used black compound on the same wheel to do heavy buffing(more aggressive), then when it wore out I loaded it up with green again. You can load more aggressive compounds on top of finer compounds, but you wanna use up the load of the aggressive stuff before you switch back to fine. OR, just stick with the fine stuff... It may take longer but there is less to think about. The compound does eventually wear out, so you have to keep applying it. You can load it up with whatever grit you want each time... The fact is though, it almost takes a microscope to tell the difference. Another thing I have been able to tell is that the softer compounds work way better. I bought green compound from HF once... Hard as a brick and wore out REALLY fast. The stuff from woodcraft is soft and works really well.
Wow, it was amazing to see that sole plate shine up! Great refurb. I got a Woodriver 80 on sale, pretty cheap. I pulled it out of the box and used it backwards, so I laughed when yours made the familiar shivering sound. Mine still needs a little tuning, though.
Um, my understanding is, since it is not a hardened blade but made of annealed steel, is to bevel the blade at a 45º angle with a mill file (as a file will not work on hardened steel - which is also a quick way of testing to see what kind of treatment you've got on a blade, plane iron, chisel, etc.), de-bur the back with light file pressure and then use a honing steel like you would for a card scraper and create a light bur towards the back (away from the bevel) of the blade. To use, insert the blade with the bevel facing in on the clamping side until it touches the bench then clamp it in. The scraper's shavings are adjusted with the screw adjuster on the other side which is the side that faces away from the cut when scraping. (Just like when using a card scraper, the convex bow is always facing in the direction of the cut - not away. (Using the belt sander is a great idea, but when using a magnet to flatten either the front or back, be sure to always use one like you did. [A welder's magnet I believe] which is strong enough. Otherwise it could suddenly become a very dangerous and sharp projectile in the shop. A shop vacuuming before using it for flattening any metal would be a really, really good idea. Even if you have fire insurance.) My number 80 is of a similar vintage but was in better shape when I got it so I feel no need to do a complete restoration on it. However, Your's looks very nice. Too bad it is a very poorly understood tool which is a shame, as there are things it does better than a card scraper, especially when it comes to larger surfaces; knots and/or wild grain, etc. I hope you've enjoyed it in the interim since you posted this.
Everything I have seen about it says the angle should be 45 degrees... I never really pay too much attention to the exact angle of my edges for bevel down blades. In a bevel down setup, the cutting edge is actually the back of the blade, so the presented angle of the cutting edge is the angle that the blade is held in the tool. So the bevel angle just needs to be steeper than the blade angle to provide relief. The scraper plane presents the blade at a negative angle, so I am not sure how important the bevel angle really is. So... to finally answer your question... I don't know the angle of the bevels I put on this blade.
You are like a machine cranking out these projects every week! Wish I had that energy/work ethic/whatever. Nice restoration of this plane. I have a modern version but haven't got around to tuning it up yet. One of these days! Oh, also I was kind of surprised the PB Blaster didn't eat your plastic tub along with your gloves. I consider it to be pretty nasty stuff although you can't argue with the results.
I only wish I had the gumption you think I have.... Convincing myself to get off of my lazy ass and go down there is quite a feat some days. I know you and I have discussed PB Blaster quite a few times... it sucks that the smell bugs you like it does. I get sinus headaches instantly in the shampoo/soap aisle or when I pass someone wearing too much perfume, so I get where you're coming from.
I have never used a cabinet scraper like the No 80 and only card scrapers, I wasn’t expecting a bevelled blade. Should the blade be adjusted by hand or hammer? A very educational video, I think I might have tried using it the wrong way round. Also a job very well done.
I've never had/used one... I am quite familiar with card scrapers and have always thought these were cheating... but I dig refurbing old tools... so this was bound to happen sooner or later. Thanks for watching.
Hey, I have a question for you -- this weekend I finally set up my old bench grinder with a buffing wheel, and I wondered what kind of rouge you use. I guess you can't really go back and forth between grits on the same wheel?
I apologize in advance for the "War & Peace" response (I'm probably saying a bunch of stuff you already know anyway).
The green polishing compound I use in the videos is from woodcraft:
www.woodcraft.com/products/green-chrome-oxide-compound-6-oz?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C5764196e69702d6593000317%2C5797917969702d0da2000417
I have other grades, but I almost never use them. I have used black compound on the same wheel to do heavy buffing(more aggressive), then when it wore out I loaded it up with green again. You can load more aggressive compounds on top of finer compounds, but you wanna use up the load of the aggressive stuff before you switch back to fine. OR, just stick with the fine stuff... It may take longer but there is less to think about.
The compound does eventually wear out, so you have to keep applying it. You can load it up with whatever grit you want each time... The fact is though, it almost takes a microscope to tell the difference. Another thing I have been able to tell is that the softer compounds work way better. I bought green compound from HF once... Hard as a brick and wore out REALLY fast. The stuff from woodcraft is soft and works really well.
Thanks!
Using a magnet to hold the blade against the belt sander is brilliant. 👍🏼
Wow, it was amazing to see that sole plate shine up! Great refurb. I got a Woodriver 80 on sale, pretty cheap. I pulled it out of the box and used it backwards, so I laughed when yours made the familiar shivering sound. Mine still needs a little tuning, though.
It's not meant to be razor sharp. Should have a burr
Um, my understanding is, since it is not a hardened blade but made of annealed steel, is to bevel the blade at a 45º angle with a mill file (as a file will not work on hardened steel - which is also a quick way of testing to see what kind of treatment you've got on a blade, plane iron, chisel, etc.), de-bur the back with light file pressure and then use a honing steel like you would for a card scraper and create a light bur towards the back (away from the bevel) of the blade. To use, insert the blade with the bevel facing in on the clamping side until it touches the bench then clamp it in. The scraper's shavings are adjusted with the screw adjuster on the other side which is the side that faces away from the cut when scraping. (Just like when using a card scraper, the convex bow is always facing in the direction of the cut - not away.
(Using the belt sander is a great idea, but when using a magnet to flatten either the front or back, be sure to always use one like you did. [A welder's magnet I believe] which is strong enough. Otherwise it could suddenly become a very dangerous and sharp projectile in the shop. A shop vacuuming before using it for flattening any metal would be a really, really good idea. Even if you have fire insurance.) My number 80 is of a similar vintage but was in better shape when I got it so I feel no need to do a complete restoration on it. However, Your's looks very nice. Too bad it is a very poorly understood tool which is a shame, as there are things it does better than a card scraper, especially when it comes to larger surfaces; knots and/or wild grain, etc. I hope you've enjoyed it in the interim since you posted this.
Nice job my friend that turned out beautiful. What degree angle is that scraper card at in side that system?
Everything I have seen about it says the angle should be 45 degrees... I never really pay too much attention to the exact angle of my edges for bevel down blades.
In a bevel down setup, the cutting edge is actually the back of the blade, so the presented angle of the cutting edge is the angle that the blade is held in the tool. So the bevel angle just needs to be steeper than the blade angle to provide relief.
The scraper plane presents the blade at a negative angle, so I am not sure how important the bevel angle really is.
So... to finally answer your question... I don't know the angle of the bevels I put on this blade.
You are like a machine cranking out these projects every week! Wish I had that energy/work ethic/whatever.
Nice restoration of this plane. I have a modern version but haven't got around to tuning it up yet. One of these days!
Oh, also I was kind of surprised the PB Blaster didn't eat your plastic tub along with your gloves. I consider it to be pretty nasty stuff although you can't argue with the results.
I only wish I had the gumption you think I have.... Convincing myself to get off of my lazy ass and go down there is quite a feat some days.
I know you and I have discussed PB Blaster quite a few times... it sucks that the smell bugs you like it does. I get sinus headaches instantly in the shampoo/soap aisle or when I pass someone wearing too much perfume, so I get where you're coming from.
Many Thanks. My best smell is PB blaster, and Kroil (for Saturday night, and special occasions)
Thanks for the tips, just bought one. Can't wait to use it.
I have never used a cabinet scraper like the No 80 and only card scrapers, I wasn’t expecting a bevelled blade. Should the blade be adjusted by hand or hammer? A very educational video, I think I might have tried using it the wrong way round. Also a job very well done.
Nice video, I think that scraper plane is pretty handy.
I've never had/used one... I am quite familiar with card scrapers and have always thought these were cheating... but I dig refurbing old tools... so this was bound to happen sooner or later.
Thanks for watching.
Very nicely restored. It should serve you well.
Thank you!
Should be 45 degree with burr,if i am correct
Nice job 👏
Nice and sharp- good job
Thanks