Finally someone explained it right. Thank you so much Paul. Its been over 6 hears i have this tool and could not figure out, that how to make it work. There was no proper instruction anywhere. Thanks again.
Amazingly, I came across 3 brand new Stanley England planes in original boxes, absolutely never used wrapped in the old Stanley wax paper (they were in the back of an old shop). A No.4, a No.50 with all the irons and a No. 80. I bought the No 80 as I don't have one. Now I can get it to use.
This is the only tutorial that has made any sense. The Stanley manual I downloaded was as clear as mud and I have not got my number 80 to work well until watching this. Thanks Paul!
Thanks Paul! In Canada Busy Bee Tools sells a quite decent modern version of the No. 80. I bought one a year ago without a clue as to how to use it. I just watched your video, and went to the shop and applied what I learned. I got lovely shavings right away.
Appreciate this explanation so very much! I was so puzzled why I couldn’t get results from my lovely #80, but I was turning the burr as if if were a card scraper. I followed your precise instructions here, and now I’m getting gossamer shavings from hard cherry. Another salient lesson, Thank you!!
Thank you so much, Paul! I bought one but didn't know how to use it. I can now set it up! I love your videos, and i learnt so many things. Thank you again for sharing your great knowledge. ❤
Thank you, very clear and helpful ! I have a Record no. 080 I believe the English version of the Stanley no. 80, It is late now, but I am inspired to follow your clear directions precisely tomorrow , I have beautiful cross grained Black Locust , I understand this tool properly set up will showcase the grain pattern the best
Thanks for the information. I have a no80 and never get such good results. I will try your method and look forward to seeing an improvement in its action. Cheers. Jim
Excellent I bought one of these last year/beginning of this year and haven't got it out yet, also got new sharpening stones, and 3 metal diamond sharpening plates(as wasn't sure which is best for these and a new set of chisels and a new No4 plane I bought) so this will be Very useful to watch/remember.. I previously freehanded using a stanley knife blade held between my fingers on the top of a solid Canadian white oak countertop that had water marks and used a stanley blade to draw across the surface to remove the laquer/varnish and the stains underneath (best i could), it wasnt perfect but it did look a lot better than before i did it and worked quite well(if time consuming) Cheers from London 🏴🇬🇧
Thanks Paul! I’ve had mixed results with my No.80 before but I'll try again with your advices. I’ve got some boxwood to take care of so your timing is perfect :)
Thank you for filling in the last missing piece! I never understood "the hook" when compared to a bur. Now, I think I will quite like my cabinet scraper more.
Paul I don't know if this helps but I've found it useful to "back up " the blade in the vice with a random chunk of flat steel on the flat side while draw-filing. It helps to reduce the flexing of the blade and (for me anyway) it's way easier to cut a clean 45. By the way, my cabinet scraper is a cheapo (Faithful brand) and the steel was crazy hard. I had to use diamond plates and a honing guide until I replaced the steel with a Veritas. No idea why they thought it was a good idea to use steel that couldn't be set with a file but hey-ho. Thank you as always for your generosity in sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for this video! I picked up a #80 early on, but I never managed to get better results from it than my smoothing plane or a card scraper, so it fell by the wayside. I think I'd better give it another go.
I guess I’m going to have to try this. I bought an old No. 80 because I was told the iron could be sharpened like any other plane iron (at 45°), but apparently that isn’t the case?
Great tool. It will actually cut without (intentionally) creating a burr, but give it a try - it’s surprisingly not terribly difficult if you are methodical.
The easiest tool imaginable to set up, but there are some skills involved in using it. The most difficult issue is starting it at the start (end) of your workpiece. It's simple to start it where Paul did, with the entire sole on the work, but to start it right at the end of the piece of wood is a challenge. Part of the answer is skewing the tool. The other issue is chatter. The number 80 is prone to chattering, and that will leave parallel marks in your finish, across the grain. I'm not 100% sure how to avoid it, other than by having it completely sharp and well tuned.
So does the iron go in bevel up then? Since you are cutting with the consolidated edge? I messed mine up big time because I assumed ignorantly the bevel had been put on in error and it was supposed to be ground flat so you could use the burr on either side after burnishing- it didn't work very well that way and I knew there had to be something. So I have quite a bit of filing in my future to get that, those rather °45's back onto the Stanley iron.
One last question: are those used bevel up or bevel down? Couldn't see it when you put the blade in. And thanks for the comment on soft wood. Even though I don't know the bevel direction yet and I prob. missed that very perfection in sharpening, I always wondered why it's not working - no matter what I tried. I tried pine 😂
I just bought one of these, but the bevels on the blade from long edge to long edge are not mirrored / \ like on yours, instead they are parallel / / can you elaborate on that? Why would you do either and to what end? Thank you for sharing all your knowledge, it has made a great impact on my woodworking journey! Greatings from the Netherlands
It’s for use after the spoke shave spoke shave removes more larger shavings where as this sort of planes and finishes, smaller shaves. But is wider, for finishing, spoke is for shaping , use this right before sanding right after spoke basically for scraping smooth anything shave leaves behind you won’t have to scrape much if you shaved and planed properly just a few quick scrapes
Very different tools. Spokeshaves are shaping tools for curves and spokes. This is a finish tool for flat surfaces. A #80 can not do the same work as spokeshave or the other way around.
From what I can understand. That hook is extremely minute. My question is, how often do we need to sharpen. It seems like this minuscule hook will be gone very fast. Will the scraper still cut if the hook part is gone?
This just came to my mind, but....if Paul says that the so called scraper does not scrape, but it has the edge and it cuts, why we do not use the handplane with the same (I presume high) cutting angle? To sharpen the plane blade is quicker than to prepare the "hook" on the scraper and the handplane blade is easier to resharpen, too. Does the "hook" last far longer than the edge on the handplane, or what is the advantage of the scraper in comparison with the handplane?
I have Veritas low angle Jack Plane. Veritas offers a 50 Degrees Level Iron, combined with the from angle that makes it very high angle. I was wondering if I could achieve similar to Scraper results with that. Anyone?
Finally someone explained it right.
Thank you so much Paul. Its been over 6 hears i have this tool and could not figure out, that how to make it work. There was no proper instruction anywhere.
Thanks again.
Thank you so much! My dad left me a cabinet scraper. I followed your directions and it worked great! Cannot thank you enough for this video.
Yet another fabulous video,no one tutors quite like you thank you
Amazingly, I came across 3 brand new Stanley England planes in original boxes, absolutely never used wrapped in the old Stanley wax paper (they were in the back of an old shop). A No.4, a No.50 with all the irons and a No. 80. I bought the No 80 as I don't have one. Now I can get it to use.
When you bring a video out , I am on…the edge of my seat !
That was a great tutorial Paul! Thank you.
This is the only tutorial that has made any sense. The Stanley manual I downloaded was as clear as mud and I have not got my number 80 to work well until watching this. Thanks Paul!
I've had one of these for years - I thought it was ok - ish, but now I see what I've been missing - and how to raise my game 🙂 Thank you!
Good timing - I just found an old Stanley #80 in a box of old tools from a garage sale, and am about to restore it (new paint, and replace the blade).
Thanks Paul! In Canada Busy Bee Tools sells a quite decent modern version of the No. 80. I bought one a year ago without a clue as to how to use it. I just watched your video, and went to the shop and applied what I learned. I got lovely shavings right away.
This is excellent, thank you!
I’ve only used mine as a scraper after panel glue ups so I’m looking forward to using it properly!
Appreciate this explanation so very much! I was so puzzled why I couldn’t get results from my lovely #80, but I was turning the burr as if if were a card scraper. I followed your precise instructions here, and now I’m getting gossamer shavings from hard cherry. Another salient lesson, Thank you!!
Thanks Again Paul, for your insite of ALL THESE line items you show us!!
AFTER PRACTICE HAVE BEEN USING REGULARLY NOW THANKS PAUL
So many nuances. I was getting good results with my own methods but this takes it to a next level. Can't wait to try this method
Thank you so much, Paul! I bought one but didn't know how to use it. I can now set it up! I love your videos, and i learnt so many things. Thank you again for sharing your great knowledge. ❤
great tool! one of my favourites.
I have that exact plane and have always struggled to set it up properly. You make it look so easy. Thanks you.
Keeping the art alive - nice one Paul
Always a pleasure, thank you Paul !
Thank you, very clear and helpful ! I have a Record no. 080 I believe the English version of the Stanley no. 80,
It is late now, but I am inspired to follow your clear directions precisely tomorrow , I have beautiful cross grained Black Locust , I understand this tool properly set up will showcase the grain pattern the best
No 80 is a very nice tool to own when using hardwoods love mine
I’m very grateful to see an updated run on this tool.
I just got one of these and was wondering about these details, thanks Paul.
Brilliant and fuss free explanation ! many thanks.
Thanks for the information. I have a no80 and never get such good results. I will try your method and look forward to seeing an improvement in its action. Cheers. Jim
Don’t use it often but … damn I love it . Because of you and your teachings ! Thank you !
Excellent I bought one of these last year/beginning of this year and haven't got it out yet, also got new sharpening stones, and 3 metal diamond sharpening plates(as wasn't sure which is best for these and a new set of chisels and a new No4 plane I bought) so this will be Very useful to watch/remember..
I previously freehanded using a stanley knife blade held between my fingers on the top of a solid Canadian white oak countertop that had water marks and used a stanley blade to draw across the surface to remove the laquer/varnish and the stains underneath (best i could), it wasnt perfect but it did look a lot better than before i did it and worked quite well(if time consuming)
Cheers from London 🏴🇬🇧
Perfect video, thanks Paul.
Fantastic share, thank you sir.
I absolutely love the No 80
thanks that was so useful!!!
thanks
Thank you Paul.
Great Video Paul
Thanks Paul! I’ve had mixed results with my No.80 before but I'll try again with your advices. I’ve got some boxwood to take care of so your timing is perfect :)
Thank you for sharing this Paul. Wonderful video, I learn much from each video. Everyone stay safe, happy 😊 and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
always excellent
Brilliant as per usual...heading to shop to try it. Thanks Paul
Thank you for filling in the last missing piece! I never understood "the hook" when compared to a bur. Now, I think I will quite like my cabinet scraper more.
Thanks Paul!
Thank you
Paul I don't know if this helps but I've found it useful to "back up " the blade in the vice with a random chunk of flat steel on the flat side while draw-filing. It helps to reduce the flexing of the blade and (for me anyway) it's way easier to cut a clean 45.
By the way, my cabinet scraper is a cheapo (Faithful brand) and the steel was crazy hard. I had to use diamond plates and a honing guide until I replaced the steel with a Veritas. No idea why they thought it was a good idea to use steel that couldn't be set with a file but hey-ho.
Thank you as always for your generosity in sharing your knowledge.
Fantastic! Thanks a bunch, Paul! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yet another master class.
I just picked a no80 up at a swap meet. Bran new old stock made in England for $20
I got a few brand new old stock Stanley 4 and 5
Planes they are very nice also have a used 80 paints chipping but it’s great
Pura vida Paul great review about scraper planes I have stanley 81 I want to tune up its blade.pura vida Feliz navidad para todos
Thankyou --first time to see a scraper ---looks like a spokeshave --? I was so mistaken !
Great vid
Thanks for this video! I picked up a #80 early on, but I never managed to get better results from it than my smoothing plane or a card scraper, so it fell by the wayside. I think I'd better give it another go.
Спасибо!
A wooden N.80 would be a cool little project
A question please. When it gets blunt for the first time do you need to repeat the complete sharpening process, or just re roll the edge?
I guess I’m going to have to try this. I bought an old No. 80 because I was told the iron could be sharpened like any other plane iron (at 45°), but apparently that isn’t the case?
Great tool. It will actually cut without (intentionally) creating a burr, but give it a try - it’s surprisingly not terribly difficult if you are methodical.
The easiest tool imaginable to set up, but there are some skills involved in using it. The most difficult issue is starting it at the start (end) of your workpiece. It's simple to start it where Paul did, with the entire sole on the work, but to start it right at the end of the piece of wood is a challenge. Part of the answer is skewing the tool. The other issue is chatter. The number 80 is prone to chattering, and that will leave parallel marks in your finish, across the grain. I'm not 100% sure how to avoid it, other than by having it completely sharp and well tuned.
So does the iron go in bevel up then? Since you are cutting with the consolidated edge? I messed mine up big time because I assumed ignorantly the bevel had been put on in error and it was supposed to be ground flat so you could use the burr on either side after burnishing- it didn't work very well that way and I knew there had to be something. So I have quite a bit of filing in my future to get that, those rather °45's back onto the Stanley iron.
Thank you Paul!
In my experience, I can get much better surface using smoothing plane than using similar N80 scraper.
One last question: are those used bevel up or bevel down? Couldn't see it when you put the blade in.
And thanks for the comment on soft wood. Even though I don't know the bevel direction yet and I prob. missed that very perfection in sharpening, I always wondered why it's not working - no matter what I tried. I tried pine 😂
I had the same question.Check out Wood by Wright's video on sharpening the no 80 scraper and he makes it a bit clearer.
I just bought one of these, but the bevels on the blade from long edge to long edge are not mirrored / \ like on yours, instead they are parallel / / can you elaborate on that? Why would you do either and to what end?
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge, it has made a great impact on my woodworking journey! Greatings from the Netherlands
Thanks for this, Paul. Is this the same technique for sharpening a Sargent number 42?
Thankyou! I bought one and it wasn't working well for me. Now I know why.
A tad confused on this one, which resembles a spoke shave... how different is it? Thanks for all your work, Paul!
It’s for use after the spoke shave spoke shave removes more larger shavings where as this sort of planes and finishes, smaller shaves. But is wider, for finishing, spoke is for shaping , use this right before sanding right after spoke basically for scraping smooth anything shave leaves behind you won’t have to scrape much if you shaved and planed properly just a few quick scrapes
Very different tools. Spokeshaves are shaping tools for curves and spokes. This is a finish tool for flat surfaces. A #80 can not do the same work as spokeshave or the other way around.
You've inserted the blade with the bevel facing you presumably?
Yes. Bevel toward user.
So fellas when consolidating the bevel is down right so you shouldn’t see the 45 right?
From what I can understand. That hook is extremely minute. My question is, how often do we need to sharpen. It seems like this minuscule hook will be gone very fast. Will the scraper still cut if the hook part is gone?
Good day. I have a question. How to sharpen gimlet?
👍👍👍👍
This just came to my mind, but....if Paul says that the so called scraper does not scrape, but it has the edge and it cuts, why we do not use the handplane with the same (I presume high) cutting angle? To sharpen the plane blade is quicker than to prepare the "hook" on the scraper and the handplane blade is easier to resharpen, too. Does the "hook" last far longer than the edge on the handplane, or what is the advantage of the scraper in comparison with the handplane?
Principally the ability to work on awkward grain. Its much less likely to either dig in or tear a sliver out of the wood.
I have Veritas low angle Jack Plane. Veritas offers a 50 Degrees Level Iron, combined with the from angle that makes it very high angle. I was wondering if I could achieve similar to Scraper results with that. Anyone?
Thanks Paul mine will work better after this
Time to buy a nice burnisher I think 🤔
Found your next April Fools video! Making the “Can-in-a-Rag”
Ha! 1st to comment! Up at 3 and started coffee! Paul, yet again, thank you for sharing so much with us!
🔝👋
I wish you lived next door!
I love your videos, you are a very good UA-camr, can I get a comment heart?❤
Bevel away from you, or towards you?
I had the same question.Check out Wood by Wright's video on sharpening the no 80 scraper and he makes it a bit clearer.
I had the same question. Check out Wood by Wright's video on sharpening the no 80 scraper and he makes it a bit clearer.