I've used cabinet scrapers for decades. It saves you SO much mess,labor and expense assiciated with sanding and you wind up with a perfect, glass smooth surface!
The Stanley No. 80 (or the Kunz) is one of the most underappreciated tools. It does a job that no other tool will do. You can scrape highly figured wood, keep it FLAT, and leave NO tear-out. As a professional furniture maker, I have four of these, and I use them daily. I remove the honed burr before I burnish. This gives me a long-lasting burr that cuts nice wide shavings easily. Also, I never hone parallel to a blade edge. Always 90 or at least 45 degrees. Microscopic scratches parallel to the edge can weaken the fine cutting edge. Thank you for telling people about this tool. Even most professionals don't know how useful these are. I think these tools were just simply forgotten when the old timers passed on. Great video.
The 80 is one of the few tools that I have been postponing over and over again because I had no idea how to use it. Encouraged by this video I bought the Kunz one and it works like a champ! Basically ready to use out of the box. I spent maybe 30 seconds filing down sharp corners, then started making curls and immediately realized the possibilities with this tool. The Kunz one cost me around 40 euros, pretty cheap for a german made tool. Thank you James for the video 👍
I meant to write this comment when I first saw this video. So I am doing it now. As someone who was on a first name basis with Noah, I was on the shovel brigade, my finger strength is not what it used to be. I try to avoid using scrapers. But for the price of the one you gave in the link. I think I will get one to save my very old tired fingers. Has anyone told you lately you do good videos. Thank you for not signing up with some third rate cable channel. I think you sit vary comfortable where you are at.
When i first got into hand tool wood working, i saw a lot of people mentioned you dont often need to sand before finish.. you get a glass finish right off the smoothing plane. Then card scrapers took it to a whole new level. I havent been card scraping for long.. but once i do a larger project and my thumbs hate me, i might have to go for the Stanley 80 👍 cheers James
I recently inherited a collection of planes and scrapers from a relative who passed away. In the collection is a Stanley No.12, 80, two 82's, and an 83. I've never used cabinet scrapers before, so this was a great video to get me started. Thanks.
I have an old Stanley No.80 (with the original blade) that was given to me many years ago, but I was never quite sure how to sharpen it. Thanks for explaining. It will definitely come in handy cleaning up some of the larger panels I make up. Thanks for the info.
I so needed this! Thanks, James. I have two vintage 112’s that I’ve never used simply because I never really learned to use them. But now no more excuses! Great video, as always.
My class used to have one that was like a cylinder, with a neak at the top, sorta like some cat combs, not sure if this made sense.. but anyway its sadly disappeared, i wish i knew what it was before it disappeared, alsp wish we had card scrapers for it. They would be really handy about now
I have a cabinet scraper, it looks very similar to a Stanley 80, but I don’t think it is one. Don’t know much about it, but it has very small writing on it, and Rex has the exact same one I have. It’s one of my all time favorite tools. I put a massive hook on it and I haven’t had to resharpen it in about a year of use. I find that it has a lot of use not just as a cabinet scraper, but a sort of detail sander. If I have an inside corner to sand, I just pull the blade out, and pull the blade at a 45 degree angle, hook first, to get right up to an edge. It’s also very handy doing this if you just need to shave off burn marks from a table saw or power router. I often use just the blade alone to soften edges. I just the blade solo almost as much with it in the tool. Plus no bending necessary like on a card scraper. Just adjust the angle until it cuts.
Thanks for this. I’ve had an 80 since my Dad died in 2000. I just started getting into hand tools, so this is something I can use. BTW, my Dad had multiple planes. Stanley, Record 020 and some wooden planes. I use the little 103, and I have 2 90s. I rehabbed a 4, 4 1/2, and 10. I wanted to have some new planes so I bought a LN 5 1/2, and a LN 4 1/2 is on it’s way. I really love the 5 1/2, but it’s hard on my old hands for a shooting board. Hence the 4 1/2. The Stanley 4 1/2 is easier on my hands, the LN will replace the old one.
#80, #12 and #112 are seriously fun and easy to use. You can find these everywhere and get them to scrape so easily. Don't give up on cards, but if you hate sanding, explore some of these options and you will have so much fun!!!
James, I can always rely on you to help me out. I bought old versions of both these scrapers years ago. Really cleaned them up. Tried them. They would not work. Evidently, the previous owner was not aware of the 45° bevel on the steel. I think I will dig them out again and have another go with them. Hmmm. It's all about the angle.
Just finished up a maple and walnut cutting board. If it weren't for the #80 it would have been a disaster. The Veritas LAJ did its best but the #80 really cleaned up the tear out.
So the Rubio finish you (and I) love calls for sanding up to 120/150/180 (depending on what you read/watch). How does a scraped surface compare to sanding to, say, 150? Need a little more sanding? A little finer that 150? Too fine for Rubio? Is a scraped surface generally “finish ready” or is there more work to do? #4 after scraping? Getting a “finish ready surface” is still something I struggle to define/identify in my (still early) journey. Appreciate what you do, thank you very much.
Scraping and planning produce a different type of surface. the big benefit to sanding is it fills the pours with dust. this wicks the finish down in. so for me when I scrape or plane I hit the wood very quickly with something around 300-400 just to create fine dust to fill the pours.
When setting the blade on my #80 I place a aheet of paper ( or dollar bill) on the bench in front ( hook aide) of the mouth. This givese a .002-3 projection.
in the end it is a personal preference. a cabinet scraper is MUCH easer to setup for difficult grain. but if you are willing to put in the time on the plane it can do the same work.
I’ve seen a handful of Stanley 80s with what appears to be cut up sawblades; an old standby for making cards scrapers. Is it possible on those older ones to use a contemporary card scraper as a blade? The new ones are so dramatically thicker I don’t know that it would hold tightly.
Sure. You can use a thinner card scraper blade. It just tends to chatter a bit more. That's the big benefit of the thicker irons like the ones you can get it hock
They are the same thing with the exception of the soul. A number 80 has a soul which does some burnishing on the wood. Whereas a card scraper holder has no soul.
What's the time I just use an old saw plate or scraper plate. You can cut it down to be the size you want it to be. I don't know if anyone who makes one for the 12 right now.
How does the angle effect the longevity of the edge, and how do card scrapers and cabinet scrapers compare in terms of edge-longevity? It seems like those are questions just begging for a spreadsheet or two!
I like the way you think. in general you put a bigger hook on a cabinet scraper and it lasts longer then a card scraper. but it might be fun to test and quantify.
For most applications it is ready for finish. But for woods where I want to pop the grain like rays on oak, I will lightly hit it with 400 grit to fill the poor's with dust and help make them darker.
Mine came with that from the last owner. If you want an original one check out www.hantoolfinder.com there's a list of antique tool Sellers and parts people I'm sure a couple of them would have it
Hey James, have you ever done a restoration on a 12 or 12 1/2? I picked up a 12 1/2, in rough shape, for $20 a while back, but when I went to do the restoration I couldn't find a single video on UA-cam on a really involved restoration. I tried my best and I'm finishing up the restoration now, but I know I could have done better. Could you do a video restoring one of these if you have one?
I have not done a video on restoring one of those. I have not gotten one that has needed it. If you have specific questions on it and be glad to answer them. Feel free to send me an email and pictures and I can help you out.
Do you sell scrapers for the No.80 on your website? I was given a No. 80 but the person who gave it me took and reformed the one corner and curved it so only opposite side is square.
Really, really interesting, James! Thanks!!! 😃 I wander if it would be possible to make a wooden version of it! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi. Great video. I recently got a number 12 but the brass screws for the handle are stripped and don’t hold. They’re an odd thread and can’t find any in the U.K. any advice at all? Thanks.
I'm wondering if you bought your # 80 new ?. I bought mine brand new in the early 80s and it's always had a 70 degree bevel, not 45. I actually decided years ago that the 70 could be a bit aggressive on some softer woods like alder or cherry for example and ground the other edge at 80 degrees. Like any chisel or tool, bench or lathe, the shallower the bevel angel the more aggressive the cut. PS. I've bought over the years several replacement blades, one from Stanley and the other from Veritas. The Stanley came with a factory 70 degree bevel and the Veritas had no bevel, but having said that, I am in the UK and not all things are the same on opposite sides of the pond.
I have a problem with chatter with my 80. I noticed that at about 8:03, it sounds like you have some too. Any suggestions for preventing that? My sole is flat and smooth, and I think my edge is burnished ok. It's been a while, but I think if I press hard enough I can prevent it, but it makes the process too laborious.
Sometimes that's because it's sticking out a little too far. Other times because it's just getting into a rhythm on the wood grain. If you do find that then change the angle attack 20 or 30°. Or change the speed which you push it.
I got lucky last October on eBay. I bought a Sweetheart era No. 80, with a newer, replacement blade, for $4.25, and $11 shipping. It's in really good condition with just a little japanning loss. I almost felt guilty. Almost.
no the spoke shave leans back and the scraper leans forward. so the mouth would be on the wrong side. but you could make one. Here is one I made years ago. ua-cam.com/video/gOdSJeiH_24/v-deo.html
Generally, yes. The scraper is off in the last thing to touch the wood. So if I'm trying to bring out Ray fleck I may end up hitting it with some 400 grit. Sandpaper to fill the pores with a bit of dust.
So, now I should be able to make that Kuntz cabinet work for me. 20 years late, but that’s not your fault. 😂. Next challenge, sharpen the set of curved card scrapers!
Dag gum it I bought 2 about a year ago and had not seen you use one yet. I was going to send you one. BUt since you apparently already have some guess you don't need one of mine. 😁
The hook that you burnish on it points away from the bevel. The bevel points back or up slightly. The hook should point forward and down into the wood.
ya the price has gone up a bit. last time I saw them they were $29.99 after uploading the video I thought to check again. oops. but you can still get the antiques for $20 or less if you know where to look.
I sharpen all my scrapers 80,81,12,112,212 and 87 with card scraper square edges which Im sure is the way Leonard Bailey would have,with excellent results and no chatter.
I know it was tough, but you managed to scrape by.
I've used cabinet scrapers for decades. It saves you SO much mess,labor and expense assiciated with sanding and you wind up with a perfect, glass smooth surface!
The Stanley No. 80 (or the Kunz) is one of the most underappreciated tools. It does a job that no other tool will do. You can scrape highly figured wood, keep it FLAT, and leave NO tear-out. As a professional furniture maker, I have four of these, and I use them daily.
I remove the honed burr before I burnish. This gives me a long-lasting burr that cuts nice wide shavings easily. Also, I never hone parallel to a blade edge. Always 90 or at least 45 degrees. Microscopic scratches parallel to the edge can weaken the fine cutting edge.
Thank you for telling people about this tool. Even most professionals don't know how useful these are. I think these tools were just simply forgotten when the old timers passed on. Great video.
The 80 is one of the few tools that I have been postponing over and over again because I had no idea how to use it. Encouraged by this video I bought the Kunz one and it works like a champ! Basically ready to use out of the box. I spent maybe 30 seconds filing down sharp corners, then started making curls and immediately realized the possibilities with this tool. The Kunz one cost me around 40 euros, pretty cheap for a german made tool. Thank you James for the video 👍
James, Kunz seems to make a toothing blade for the no 80. Have you ever used a toothing blade on a scraper? If so is it worthy?
Now I need a cabinet scraper! Man, I am always going to be broke, buying all these tools! Thanks James!
I was using mine backwards 😂 thanks for the video James! It works much better now
It is kinda confusing. I still get mixed up with it. Just remember the tool is only comfortable pushing, and your hook must face forward.
I meant to write this comment when I first saw this video. So I am doing it now. As someone who was on a first name basis with Noah, I was on the shovel brigade, my finger strength is not what it used to be. I try to avoid using scrapers. But for the price of the one you gave in the link. I think I will get one to save my very old tired fingers. Has anyone told you lately you do good videos. Thank you for not signing up with some third rate cable channel. I think you sit vary comfortable where you are at.
Just getting into scrapers, great tools.
When i first got into hand tool wood working, i saw a lot of people mentioned you dont often need to sand before finish.. you get a glass finish right off the smoothing plane.
Then card scrapers took it to a whole new level.
I havent been card scraping for long.. but once i do a larger project and my thumbs hate me, i might have to go for the Stanley 80 👍 cheers James
I recently inherited a collection of planes and scrapers from a relative who passed away. In the collection is a Stanley No.12, 80, two 82's, and an 83. I've never used cabinet scrapers before, so this was a great video to get me started. Thanks.
As a middle aged guy getting a bit arthritic in my hands, I'm glad to hear about these.
Now I have a better understanding of how my cabinet scraper works! Now, I may give it another chance with a better opportunity for success. Thank you.
I have an old Stanley No.80 (with the original blade) that was given to me many years ago, but I was never quite sure how to sharpen it. Thanks for explaining. It will definitely come in handy cleaning up some of the larger panels I make up. Thanks for the info.
I so needed this! Thanks, James. I have two vintage 112’s that I’ve never used simply because I never really learned to use them. But now no more excuses! Great video, as always.
Thnx. For the tips. I just came back from school and made it work. Got fairly heacy curls in popular
Always learn something from your videos THANKS.
My class used to have one that was like a cylinder, with a neak at the top, sorta like some cat combs, not sure if this made sense.. but anyway its sadly disappeared, i wish i knew what it was before it disappeared, alsp wish we had card scrapers for it. They would be really handy about now
never understood the difference - THANK YOU (I was waiting for one to show up at a garage sale, now thinking of going out to buy one 🙂 )
Thank you! That cleared up several questions I had about my #80 scraper.
Perfect timing! I got a No. 12 basically for free in excellent condition!
Thanks for the video. I bought a scraper about a year ago and had no idea how to properly set it or sharpen the blade.
Thanks, just happened to be considering using my cabinet scraper on my chair. Now I know how to sharpen it and use it! Thanks again!
Love a card / cabinet scraper made one following Paul Sellers method works great now I’ve managed to learn how to sharpen it properly.
Very well made and super informative video.
Thanks for the update James. Fantastic video.
James, thanks for the video. This makes me want to get a cabinet scraper
Cheers for sharing the knowledge
I have a cabinet scraper, it looks very similar to a Stanley 80, but I don’t think it is one. Don’t know much about it, but it has very small writing on it, and Rex has the exact same one I have. It’s one of my all time favorite tools. I put a massive hook on it and I haven’t had to resharpen it in about a year of use. I find that it has a lot of use not just as a cabinet scraper, but a sort of detail sander. If I have an inside corner to sand, I just pull the blade out, and pull the blade at a 45 degree angle, hook first, to get right up to an edge. It’s also very handy doing this if you just need to shave off burn marks from a table saw or power router. I often use just the blade alone to soften edges. I just the blade solo almost as much with it in the tool. Plus no bending necessary like on a card scraper. Just adjust the angle until it cuts.
Thanks for this. I’ve had an 80 since my Dad died in 2000. I just started getting into hand tools, so this is something I can use. BTW, my Dad had multiple planes. Stanley, Record 020 and some wooden planes. I use the little 103, and I have 2 90s. I rehabbed a 4, 4 1/2, and 10. I wanted to have some new planes so I bought a LN 5 1/2, and a LN 4 1/2 is on it’s way. I really love the 5 1/2, but it’s hard on my old hands for a shooting board. Hence the 4 1/2. The Stanley 4 1/2 is easier on my hands, the LN will replace the old one.
#80, #12 and #112 are seriously fun and easy to use. You can find these everywhere and get them to scrape so easily. Don't give up on cards, but if you hate sanding, explore some of these options and you will have so much fun!!!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing
Amazingly helpful, thank you!
Great vedio, thanks...!!
Great as always
James, I can always rely on you to help me out. I bought old versions of both these scrapers years ago. Really cleaned them up. Tried them. They would not work. Evidently, the previous owner was not aware of the 45° bevel on the steel. I think I will dig them out again and have another go with them. Hmmm. It's all about the angle.
excellent video!
thank you James
Just finished up a maple and walnut cutting board. If it weren't for the #80 it would have been a disaster. The Veritas LAJ did its best but the #80 really cleaned up the tear out.
I have a little arthritis in may thumbs - so my no. 80 is a bit of a godsend for me.
So the Rubio finish you (and I) love calls for sanding up to 120/150/180 (depending on what you read/watch). How does a scraped surface compare to sanding to, say, 150? Need a little more sanding? A little finer that 150? Too fine for Rubio? Is a scraped surface generally “finish ready” or is there more work to do? #4 after scraping? Getting a “finish ready surface” is still something I struggle to define/identify in my (still early) journey.
Appreciate what you do, thank you very much.
Scraping and planning produce a different type of surface. the big benefit to sanding is it fills the pours with dust. this wicks the finish down in. so for me when I scrape or plane I hit the wood very quickly with something around 300-400 just to create fine dust to fill the pours.
When setting the blade on my #80 I place a aheet of paper ( or dollar bill) on the bench in front ( hook aide) of the mouth. This givese a .002-3 projection.
just bough my first card scrapper yesterday, 0.06 Bahco. i hope i get it to work a bit smoother than my trusty old rusty Richards paint remover.
Appreciate the information!
When would you use a cabinet scraper vs a smoothing plane?
When the wood is difficult to plane without creating torn grain
in the end it is a personal preference. a cabinet scraper is MUCH easer to setup for difficult grain. but if you are willing to put in the time on the plane it can do the same work.
Great vedio, thanks..!
Have you ever tried the veritas?? The say they have an improved modified version??
Thanks
just jim
Yes. It's a great tool
You mentioned putting a magnet on the back of a card scraper; is that for ergonomics and to stop heat transfer?
Heat.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
I’ve seen a handful of Stanley 80s with what appears to be cut up sawblades; an old standby for making cards scrapers. Is it possible on those older ones to use a contemporary card scraper as a blade? The new ones are so dramatically thicker I don’t know that it would hold tightly.
Sure. You can use a thinner card scraper blade. It just tends to chatter a bit more. That's the big benefit of the thicker irons like the ones you can get it hock
Feeding the algorithm! Om nom nom!
So, how do these compare with the DIY holders that simply set the curve to the scraper... like the #80?
They are the same thing with the exception of the soul. A number 80 has a soul which does some burnishing on the wood. Whereas a card scraper holder has no soul.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo 😇Sounds like the cs holder will never make it to that heavenly workshop. So sad. 🤓
When you want to shapen contour scrapers do you need to use a slip?
For card scrapers? Those I just use the burnisher
Can you say me what kind of steel a scraper is made from? I have different in stock and would make my own. Thank You very much 😊
Usually it's 1095 spring steel.
Where do you get new cabinet scraper/Stanley 12 blades? A lot of suppliers I looked at were out of stock
What's the time I just use an old saw plate or scraper plate. You can cut it down to be the size you want it to be. I don't know if anyone who makes one for the 12 right now.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks! I just inherited a huge assortment of hand tools and this video helped me a lot. I hadn't seen the 12 before.
How does the angle effect the longevity of the edge, and how do card scrapers and cabinet scrapers compare in terms of edge-longevity?
It seems like those are questions just begging for a spreadsheet or two!
I like the way you think. in general you put a bigger hook on a cabinet scraper and it lasts longer then a card scraper. but it might be fun to test and quantify.
James, thank you for the tutorial. On the #80, you said the piece was "almost ready for a finish" in your opinion, what would be next?
For most applications it is ready for finish. But for woods where I want to pop the grain like rays on oak, I will lightly hit it with 400 grit to fill the poor's with dust and help make them darker.
Where did you get that square nut on the back of your No. 12? I just got one and I’m missing the same brass nut…
Mine came with that from the last owner. If you want an original one check out www.hantoolfinder.com there's a list of antique tool Sellers and parts people I'm sure a couple of them would have it
Thanks, I'll check it out. I was able to figure out that it's a 5/16-18 thread if anyone is interested.@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Hey James, have you ever done a restoration on a 12 or 12 1/2? I picked up a 12 1/2, in rough shape, for $20 a while back, but when I went to do the restoration I couldn't find a single video on UA-cam on a really involved restoration. I tried my best and I'm finishing up the restoration now, but I know I could have done better. Could you do a video restoring one of these if you have one?
I have not done a video on restoring one of those. I have not gotten one that has needed it. If you have specific questions on it and be glad to answer them. Feel free to send me an email and pictures and I can help you out.
thanks
Do you sell scrapers for the No.80 on your website? I was given a No. 80 but the person who gave it me took and reformed the one corner and curved it so only opposite side is square.
Really, really interesting, James! Thanks!!! 😃
I wander if it would be possible to make a wooden version of it!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Here is one I made years ago. ua-cam.com/video/gOdSJeiH_24/v-deo.html
and here is a card scraper holder. ua-cam.com/video/zctzSoODq8c/v-deo.html
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Oh, nice! I'm going to watch it! 😃
Thanks!
Hi. Great video. I recently got a number 12 but the brass screws for the handle are stripped and don’t hold. They’re an odd thread and can’t find any in the U.K. any advice at all? Thanks.
ya Stanley used a lot of ODD threads. most people just re-tap the hole one size bigger and put in new bolts
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I considered that but the casting is only thin and they cost a lot in the U.K. so very hesitant to try. I’ll keep looking
I'm wondering if you bought your # 80 new ?.
I bought mine brand new in the early 80s and it's always had a 70 degree bevel, not 45. I actually decided years ago that the 70 could be a bit aggressive on some softer woods like alder or cherry for example and ground the other edge at 80 degrees. Like any chisel or tool, bench or lathe, the shallower the bevel angel the more aggressive the cut.
PS. I've bought over the years several replacement blades, one from Stanley and the other from Veritas. The Stanley came with a factory 70 degree bevel and the Veritas had no bevel, but having said that, I am in the UK and not all things are the same on opposite sides of the pond.
this one is from the 30s. I have seen then with all kinds of angles on them.
I have a problem with chatter with my 80. I noticed that at about 8:03, it sounds like you have some too. Any suggestions for preventing that? My sole is flat and smooth, and I think my edge is burnished ok. It's been a while, but I think if I press hard enough I can prevent it, but it makes the process too laborious.
Sometimes that's because it's sticking out a little too far. Other times because it's just getting into a rhythm on the wood grain. If you do find that then change the angle attack 20 or 30°. Or change the speed which you push it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks James! I'll keep this in mind when I next use it
I got lucky last October on eBay. I bought a Sweetheart era No. 80, with a newer, replacement blade, for $4.25, and $11 shipping. It's in really good condition with just a little japanning loss. I almost felt guilty. Almost.
If you put a card scraper in a wooden spoke shave would it work the same or would have to make a different jig?
no the spoke shave leans back and the scraper leans forward. so the mouth would be on the wrong side. but you could make one. Here is one I made years ago. ua-cam.com/video/gOdSJeiH_24/v-deo.html
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks!
Great, I get it and I will buy one but some instinct in me says this should be done on the pull like the Japanese.
most people do both. like a card scraper or spoke shave. It depending on the wood and the current orientation.
Thanks for the video! Do you finish the piece you are working on right from the scraper or sand first?
Generally, yes. The scraper is off in the last thing to touch the wood. So if I'm trying to bring out Ray fleck I may end up hitting it with some 400 grit. Sandpaper to fill the pores with a bit of dust.
I know this is a very open ended working, depending on what wood, and how often you use it but about how long does a cabinet scraper stay sharp
Usually two sharpenings for a dining room table top. Ish!
But what about the style that's a straight handle through the card? So no sole. Is that not a cabinet scraper per se?
That is a paint scraper. It's basically a screwdriver in comparison to a chisel.
Has anyone tried Rocklers Bench Dog Cabinet scraper?? Little difficult finding a vintage one here, so I was thinking of purchasing it...
It is great. But they is the nice thing about a cabinet scraper there is nothing to them even the cheap ones work well.
@WoodByWrightHowTo I see, thank you as always Jamws, hopefully they are still on sale to grab one!🙏
So, now I should be able to make that Kuntz cabinet work for me. 20 years late, but that’s not your fault. 😂. Next challenge, sharpen the set of curved card scrapers!
Dag gum it I bought 2 about a year ago and had not seen you use one yet. I was going to send you one. BUt since you apparently already have some guess you don't need one of mine. 😁
With all these specialized planes, are there any tools that you still have on your wishlist?
Not really. half of the planes in my shop are just there so i can teach them. now when I buy tools it is mostly for teaching the history.
Good to know I've been using my scraper backwards, still worked though. I had inherited it and only used it a few times.
I have struggled with my #12. If I get it cutting well, then I end up with chatter which leaves a bad surface.
usualy chatter means it is sticking out too far but some times if you slow down or speed up the push the frequency changes and the chatter stops.
I cant get my head around which way the bevel goes.i get some sawdust, but no shavings
The hook that you burnish on it points away from the bevel. The bevel points back or up slightly. The hook should point forward and down into the wood.
I got given a Stanley 80 today, now I just have to find a project...
Thank you for that explanation! The blade bevels and orientation has always seemed non intuitive to me.
I've got a scraper plane! I have a tool that James doesn't. What do I win?
"I haven't done a scientifically tested that." Sounds like a scientifically testing it video might be coming soon.
0:50 ~$50 for Kunz #80 isn't exactly "almost nothing".
ya the price has gone up a bit. last time I saw them they were $29.99 after uploading the video I thought to check again. oops. but you can still get the antiques for $20 or less if you know where to look.
I sharpen all my scrapers 80,81,12,112,212 and 87 with card scraper square edges which Im sure is the way Leonard Bailey would have,with excellent results and no chatter.
The original scraper planes came with a 45 Degree bevel on them from the factory.
This is the comment down below.
Sumting funny. Lol.
Why is cardscraper soulless?
That's just the way the maker made it.
the kuntz on amazon comes with a squared edge card why is that ? , it is really annoying
A lot of people like that
This video is more than just scratching the surface.
You got really scraped up in that. Well done though.
Would you call your burr Aaron?
You can’t download a UA-cam video any more without a Premium subscription?? There goes saving all the interesting stuff for future reference 😡