F56 MINI Cooper S Upper Engine Mount replacement!
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- The MINI started making a sound when I would shift gears etc that sounded like a suspension issue initially...upon inspection I found that the upper motor mount no longer had the bushing in it! This is apparently common in the new MINI's. I was unable to find a stronger aftermarket part so I went with oem MINI/BMW again as it did last 50K miles. Hope this video helps you if you are having to attempt this repair yourself! (please note, this is not a "how to" video) I just showing you an overview of the process for myself :-) .
As a (soon to be qualified) BMW and Mini technician, these engine mounts on the F56 mini's, now also found on fwd BMW's like the X1 or 1 series, are typical to go bad between 18000 to about 25000 miles and must be replaced if the hydraulic fluid inside them has leaked out. Also if you ever have a problem removing the headlight because of those retaining nuts, spray a little bit of multilube on the bolts, and regularly loosen then tighten the bolt to assist with the overengineered loctite, if the nut does slip, try and pull the casing back, and use an 11 open end spanner to remove it. Hopefully this helps anyone in doubt
!! Appreciate this!! I really suggest just buying them new! I work for mini as well and we always replace them!!! 🙏 these mounts are awful! 😂
@@JulietteHallie these mounts are truly horrible little things😂 but where I'm from, motorplan pays for them until it expires, which is 5 years or around 60000 miles, and the units are great for an hour's work😂😂😂
Those nuts are ridiculous, the hardest part of the job
@@rainydayz4629 if you loosen the 3 bolts from the mount to the engine, you can let the engine tilt, making it easier to get to the two on the body. But be sure to support the engine from underneath to prevent stuff from breaking, a trestle on the sump will be more than good enough if you don't have an engine brace.
Gotta love my 120k mile f56 🤣. Everything is all original somehow 😆
Thanks for saving me $1360 that he dealers wanted to get me for, not shot, a few scraped knuckles and some extra screws later, my motor mount is 100 again. Thanks again!!
Ivan Avelancio I GOT YOU MAN!!! It’s not that hard of an install!
My car started with this "crunching" noise like 2 months ago (when i go through rought terrain or flex when coming down the parking spot), i guess i will give it a check now that we are in quarenteene. It might be the Powerflex bushes that might need a litle more lube. If not, it must be this (although it was changed last year when i got my engine replaced due to the crankshaft TSB.
Great video as always!
This video is missing TONS of info for the home DIY-er trying to do this themselves, dont be fooled (Im right in the thick of it as I type this). She has a ton of power tools and tools in general that Im sure you dont (I have a good amount and still missing important ones for this job).
Also, she skips over a bunch of steps such as:
1. Your headlight bolts are likely seized into their nuts (very common and no amount of PB blaster worked) and you'll need to remove bumper to access the lower one (to clamp the nut as you unscrew, to keep it from moving). You'll then need to remove even more body parts to access it.
2. Plastic trim right by the engine has (2) 8mm screws going directly the engine mount itself. Unless u have a long reach 8mm wrench or a ratcheting 8mm wrench or some tiny power tools, you'll be going to the auto parts store to get them because these are damn near inaccessible otherwise.
3. One of the 2 larger bolts (the inside one, towards car interior) unscrews directly into very hard plastic which you'll either need to break a piece off or find another way to continue to unscrew it. The primary 3 bolds (smaller ones) holding the engine mount are the only truly easy ones to remove.
That said, dealer quoted me $1500 for this on March 2022 and all OEM parts have only run me $350 so far for all 3 months (upper, lower, trans). That leaves plenty of money for new tools! But just be aware, this is a bigger job than it appears if you dont already have all the right tools.
Wow. LOL. #1 you don’t need power tools. I do lots of work without power tools. I don’t have TONS of power tools I have a freaking impact that at most will pull 70lbs which leaves me breaking tons of bolts by hand. #2 this isn’t a “HOW TO” video it’s a Vlog channel #3 my mini is a track car things aren’t 100% the same as an OEM mini hence it not being a how to… I would NEVER recommend a beginner that doesn’t have proper tools to do this job as moving your motor around with no experience could cause damage… thanks for the view and interaction I guess ?
@@JulietteHallie Wasnt meant with any disrespect, only that you made it look easy and I wanted to warn others it'll be quite a bit more involved than your video makes it appear. Some might be on the fence about whether or not to attempt the engine mount replacement or go to a shop so I figured a blunt assessment of the job from a layman's perspective might apply to more folk. I appreciate that you made your video, seriously! It just seemed so easy when I saw you do it, lol. 2 days and scarred knuckles later I thought I might chime in on the actual reality of the job.
Just noticed my engine mount was leaking fluid Glad i saw this video thanks for sharing
Of course! Glad it helped !
Did you not have to support the engine and what’s the torque about to swap mine
1AZ Engine mount to cylinder head - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M10 10.9 - Replace screws - Jointing torque 40 Nm Angle of rotation 90 °
2AZ Engine mount to side member - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm
3AZ Engine mounting bracket to cylinder head - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M10 8.8 - 41 Nm
4AZ Holder with rubber mount to oil sump - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm
5AZ Holder with rubber mount to front axle support - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm
Thanks for the info... With those last two, I'm assuming you're talking about the Lower Engine Mount? Not used to someone using the term "holder" for these things
And what does 1AZ though 5AZ mean?
Excellent video ! Immediately subbed ! I have a 2019 Cooper S here in UK.
thank you!!
Your videos are seriously awesome I love you.
I got lucky. My engine mount just snapped on top and this is excellent thanks for posting
Devin Hunt “lucky” 😂😂😂
Juliette Hallie well luck has struck again. Luckily got it changed today at Mini and was given a huge break. What should have costed 1200 for top and bottom mounts only costed 320 cuz of a family member who works there. Apparently it’s the worst they ever seen so let’s hope I don’t do that again. Lmao great video tho. I know one day in the future I’ll need it. 😂😂
Devin Hunt omg 🥵
Devin Hunt glad you got it fixed tho
Car maintenance and amazing nails. Perfect! 😁
JohnSav I try my best 💁🏻♀️
Thanks for the input
How do I know if the upper or lower is the issue, and should I change both?
What's going on from 2:50 to 5:20 ? Is that what you're referring to at the end where you said you removed some things that weren't necessary? Or was it the 1 diagonal bolt?
Love your roll cage
Thank you
Great video - what spot (underneath) did You use to "jack the motor up"? Thanks in advance
I hope this doesn't sound sexist but I'm a man and I can't even do what she's doing so hats off to her. Got the same problem so after the Mechanics I go lol
13th Don thank you I appreciate it !
Okay so.... BY FAR the biggest pain in the ass was the GEEEEEEEENIUS level engineering on the headlight bolts. It's almost as if the welded on nuts literally TWO INCHES on the same bracket was too convenient to do on the headlights so they had to stack a 10 layer BS contraption where the end that holds the nut just straight up fails for some unknown reason and it starts to twist as you unscrew it. Had to hammer out the freaking thing at the end and then hold the nut with a spanner.
dealer quoted me $1400 (parts plus 5 hrs of labor) , you did it in about 2 hrs , telling me that i could save a ton of money to just do it my self
Yeah it’s not the worst job
Wow amazing video, JULIETTE you are amazing... I’ve been looking for this like months... in here (Mexico) you must pay to the service dealership like 15,000 Mexican peso... this is something like 800 usd... thanks for the saving you did to me 🙌🙌🙌
Daniel Perez yay! I’m so glad! It’s not too hard of a job !
800 usd is a bargain. my local dealership just quoted me over $1300 to replace!
Thanks for the video. I just ordered a replacement mount for ours. Hopefully a job for this weekend.
Hopefully it goes smooth for you!
@@JulietteHallie The Cooper S is actually my daughters car. She's a bit of a car nut like her dad. She likes to help out in the workshop and learn more about her car.
Can anyone explain how to diagnose this problem when the mount is NOT completely broken like this? I have a noise that seems to be suspension but this sounds like it could be it too. When I hit a bump, instead of a single 'thump' I get "thump, thump, thump". I also get a bank every once in a while if I pop the clutch too hard. (this is why I suspect this may really be the issue)
I found out mine was bad from hearing a knock up front when shifting and when going over speed bumper
You said the AC lines were easy to wiggle around, I have to replace my high pressure line because we think there's a leak and that's why it won't hold freon - is it a difficult job? I can't find any videos on it. I have an F57 S.
Very informative video thank you. I discovered my engine mount completely broken a while ago. If I replace mine like yours, will the other mounts need to be replaced? Older parts vs new part so I’m not sure on what to do lol. Dilemma...
KDaNiFL It just depends !! Up to your budget, damage and time
What was the improved/stronger mount you found? I didn't see a link or part number referenced in your post or comments.
Aaron Nicely it was an OEM replacement.
I actually worked at mini at the time to I just got one from work.i don’t know the part number off the top of my head.
I test drove a '15 Mini S two days ago with 53,,000 miles on it. I loved it and was going to buy it later this week. However, after reading and watching this and reading about lots of other people having the same problem on various forums....I've decided not to buy this gorgeous car and probably not any Generation 3 Mini at all. I'm used to driving Toyotas, Hondas and Mazdas....all cars that don't have continual problems and expensive parts that break every five years due to poor design and materials. I mean come on...BMW is well aware of this problem and hasn't done any are-desingn of this part of the quality of the rubber that cracks and lets all the fluid drain out.
If it were a $30 part that would be one thing. But it's a fairly expensive part with many dealers charging over $1,000 to replace and BMW just expects their customers to eat it? This really shows a lack of respect for their customers and indicates that they are really only concerned about the bottom line. I love the car....but don't care to driving a ticking time bomb that has to have an expensive repair job every five years. And who knows what other mechanical and/or electrical issues will arise. Crap...I was really looking forward to driving one of these...but guess I'll go buy another Mazda 3 instead. But Juliette...thanks for the great videos, I've enjoyed them and your great personality.
I’m sorry to hear you feel that way! I’ve owned my F56 2015 MT MCS for over 3 years and done 30k+ miles. Majority HARD miles and had really no issues besides this. R56 is a bad mini but F56 I have not seen have issues. Working at the dealer we rarely saw the new minis. Hope you’re happy with your JDM cars! Thank you for supporting my channel I’m glad you like it! 😃
What size torque bolts are on the mount and do you need a 1/4 inch or 1/2 impact wrench ?
Love this girl ❤️ she's awesome 👍
Smoking ShieldsNV thank you!
You're welcome now I'm going to do the same job on my daughter's car. Dealer want $980 to do it
Smoking ShieldsNV oof. That’s WAY TOO much !
Definitely thought so. I'm a retired bmw tech figured I should be able to handle this just needed a little point in the right direction thanks for the video
@@smokingshieldsnv606 I was Quoted just over $1000 here in Orlando, they used 5 hours as the labor charge. Honestly sounds like a manufactures defect, dealer notice mine at 35k and said they see it often, but wouldn't cover it under warranty
I think my mini has the same mount broken but I’m not sure. How can you diagnose a broken mount?
bertito43 well without looking at it, you can listen for knocking while shifting, rough idle, motor movement. With looking you can look for cracked or broken rubber bushing
Juliette Hallie there’s knocking when I shift to drive (it’s an auto) and definitely rough idle. I’m gonna remove the headlight to inspect it because at plain view I can’t tell. Thanks!
bertito43 of course!!
Great video !
(Αny link for the front red sway bar ? )
The front strut bar is from NM engineering
Hi, I have the same problem, I have to remove the headlight and fender for this process and I have another issue, the dealer says I have oil leak around the valve cover and says I have to upgrade the valve cover with a new one, I think is only the valve cover gasket, please let me know
Juan Cotto Power Collector I can’t say for sure but likely it’s just a gasket
@@JulietteHallie that's what I think, is easy for remove, is gonna be my 1st time work with mini
@@JulietteHallie and I have to remove the fender and headlight for put the new mount motor?
@@JulietteHallie ua-cam.com/video/daJRC45LNU8/v-deo.html
I saw this guy making upgrade in stage with the cooper f56 , says have 7 different stages and number 3 is for ethanol
Hello JULIETTE you are very good compliment😘😘😘
Can you please make a video for F56 transmission mount replacement?? I could NOT figure that one out.
Hi sorry I didnt see this! I WILL eventually have this video my trans mount bolt snapped in my trans while driving so its gonna be a PROJECT
MINI quoted me $1200 today and I don't even have any problems with my motor mount. I think they were just trying to make some money.
thank you for the video you are awesome , if anyone wants pictures and a diagram how to do this and more go to www.newtis.info and click on bmw technical information then scroll down to mini f56 and you will see all the repair manuals , wire diagrams and electronic components , i hope this helps !!! is always fun to watch your videos juliette
Jorge Rosete thank you! I’m sure this will help many more people
It costs $30 for 24 hour use. I guess that just goes towards the savings of not having the Dealer do the work ($985)
Is it connected to the upper engine head not the lower engine body?
I’m not 100% certain I haven’t messed with it in a long time. I’d assume on the block
Does anyone know if the mount bolts are torque to yield?
hello there , can you tell me where you bought the ENG Mount, thanks!!
It is from the dealer
Is there only 1 upper mount here, or 1 on each side?
Only one
Do they make a front brace like your red one for a 2018 jcw chilli red?
Doug Macrae NM makes the front brace! Should fit the f56/55 👌
Great video. Can you provide a part number for this?
Kengine I don’t know the part number but googling F56 upper motor mount should help find it for you!
I hope this will be the same as my f60
I would guess it’s similar
My 2015 Passenger side motor mount went bad and passenger side control arms went bad just from normal driving and under 70k miles.
SM0R3S what a bummer!! Sorry to hear
Same exact thing here.. I'm only at 45k and the dealer told me I need a new control arm and motor mount.. they're asking $2,780 for both. Ridiculous!
GuitarJ Christensen holy moly that’s a lot
GuitarJ Christensen same here too. I bought the motor mount and bolts. Also this guide here www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f55-cooper-hat/repair-manuals/22-engine-transmission-mounting/22-11-engine-mounting/1VnXlLM7Ot helped along with Juliette’s video
@@SM0R3S What size star socket did those bolts need?
Do u have the torque specs?
not off the top of my head you would have to look them up
5:45 an arm in the foreground never help 😂😂
Consider mentioning the torque specs for all the bolts that you remove / put back in… THEN the vid would be really helpful !!
This is a vlog channel at the end of the day, I dont have all of the torque specs on hand and i dont provide step by step instructions. I am simply a girl that learned how to do these repairs in her garage and makes silly videos of it all. If it helps great if not im sorry, All Data is a great resource for step by step instructions and torque specs if you need that.
Hehe whoops
Torque specs? Or do we not care?
I don’t know all the torque specs off the top of my head you’ll have to google it… but not everything is done on camera lol
If this took you 2 hours , why does my dealer charge me 1800 to replace lol
cause dealerships are a scam