You made the rocker arm and lifter look very simple to remove and reinstall. Sometimes I like to work on my own vehicle, dealerships rates are outrageous. Thanks
I have an 09 Dodge Ram 1500 with 330,000 miles on it. I have used full synthetic oil since day one. The lifters started ticking about 10,000 miles ago but I am now finally able to dedicate the time to do this job as this has been my main vehicle and I couldn't afford to let it sit for too long. I hope to get another 50 to 60 thousand miles before I finally trade it off. I've not had to do anything major to the engine, just a couple sets of plugs, a sepentine belt and tensioner, and 3 water pumps. I also had to replace the radiator at about 200k miles. Along with the lifters, I'm replacing the complete timing set, spark plugs and wires, valve cover gaskets, heater hoses, upper and lower radiator hoses and water pump. Maybe I'm sinking too much time and money into something with this many miles, but this has been one of the most trouble-free vehicles I have ever owned, and I have definitely gotten my money's worth on this pickup.
With that motor, the oil journals where the oil comes from to the lifter gets plugged not getting enough oil to the lifter. It's not usually the lifter. Take lifter out. Crank over the motor to blow out the oil journals that are plugged. You will know when the oil squirts and hits the hood so best put a rag over it. Only takes a crank or two to unplug them. Replace the lifter or use a new one. Works every time. It took me 4 times taking mine apart to figure it out with new lifters.
I'm sending my kids dad a screenshot of your reply... Smdh poor dude... They getting him for a whole motor 😩😂 I'm in another state or I'd prove a whole point 😂🥰
@@machetesulaco Why would you take it "all " apart? Just take off the valve covers and pull the lifter out that isn't working. You don't want to start it until you get it back together
Always change your oil on time with full synthetic and try not to constantly romp on the accelerator and you're golden. I have an 03 Durango with the 4.7 and it has been a very reliable engine. 171,000 miles. I've had it for 4 years and the only things I've had to replace were the radiator and the alternator. Now the front end is another story, but that's a just Dodge thing 😂
I just got done doing my lifter on a 2002 dodge ram 1500 4.7 i removed air intake, wire harnesses, radiator hose, disconnected the battery, removed master cylinder from brake drum,and removed brake drum in preparation for this project. Everything went well except the parts store sent a wrong part in place of one of the lifters. i had to go back to the store get the right one and soak in oil for another 12 hours(i cheated and soaked for 8 so i could have it done that day). I used his advice through the whole project and it went well. 2 thumbs up!!! thank for taking your time spent making this video.
thank you for your video i just replaced the lifters in my 2002 jeep liberty 3.7l i used a 10 mm wrench , bent the end and grinded on it to make it thinner, it popped the rocker right out just like you showed. and used a small pry bar and a flat screw driver to pop the rocker back in. thank you very much for sharing your knoledge.
Thanks Martin for posting this video. My 01 WJ 4.7 had a valve seat come loose about a month ago and I took the heads off and had the machine shop replace all the valve seats. They had a way to install them so that they won't come off again. Well I put the engine back together and it ran great for a few days. Then this morning I went to start it and it made a loud tapping sound followed by an engine miss and a p0303 engine miss code. I had a hunch that a rocker came off and pulled the driver's side valve cover off and there it was. The exhaust rocker fell off. Bought a new lifter for about $13 and popped in like you did and it runs great again. The previous owner wasn't too good about doing regular oil changes and so there was a fair amount of sludge in the engine. I dropped the oil pan and clean the pick up tube and screen as well to be safe. So far so good. Thanks again! Very helpful video.
I remember reading someplace awhile back that another problem with these engines is carbon on the valve stems. Supposedly if enough carbon builds on the valve and causes it to stick for even like a fraction of a second, the rocker arm will fall out .
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and explain everything in detail, I'll be replacing my lifters next weekend and it's nice to know it won't be a 3 day event.
You're welcome, the hard part is getting the valve covers off due to all the hoses and wiring harness that run over top of the covers. Once you got them off I think it's pretty easy to change out the lifters
@@martinbuilt ok that's good to know. I'm hoping replacing the lifters will rid the light color smoke during start up and the engine tick. It goes away after a few minutes but it's definitely bugging me
@@somanynamesilltrythis0180 you didn't mention the light colored smoke on Startup that sounds more like valve guide seals. Now the tick noise your hearing is the lifters. I just recently did a video where I install the 08 camshafts new valve springs, retainers and valve guide seals you may want to check that out.
Say Bruh, thank you very much. I thought that I was going to have to, pass out, wake up, and still have to deal with this problem. But then I see you. Smooth, direct, straight to the point. Now I got it. Again, THANKS BRUH. Much Love For You
We bought a 04 Durango with the 4.7, I have the 4.7 in my 04 Ram as well. My Ram runs like a dream, has slight noise on startup but goes away within seconds. It has 201k on it, I got it with 165k. Previously it was a state owned vehicle so had regular maintenance. The Durango on the other hand has about 155k, has significant noise that does not go away. I know these motors are notorious for valvetrain noise due to the valve adjusters getting plugged with crap, but didn’t know how hard it would be to repair. After watching this video I am confident that I can get the job done myself. Thanks for the video, to the point and not a lot of irrelevant talking.
I’m doing this right now on my long weekend . I underestimated getting driver side valve cover off .. it’s a pain in the rear end . But anyways I just wanted to say thank your all the videos that you do . I watched your timing chain video an handful of times before I did mine on my dodge .
You sir, have made my day. I was just about to buy the tool and was worried about lead time on it (plus the price). I already have a 10mm brake line wrench ready to volunteer. Thanks again.
if that wrench doesn't work for you, Autozone has a set of distributor wrenches that will work. Even a pair of needle-nose pliers with the angled tip would work.
Sometimes I miss that ol’ 04 WJ overland I had. It was my first V8 and even though I’d laugh at it now, that thing felt lightning quick after owning my 08 JKUR for nearly 5 years. Lol! Great video!
Maybe not actually lightning quick, but the 4.7 HO’s are definitely not slow. Certainly a lot more power than a JK. Rented a JKU for a week on vacation and I liked the Jeep but missed my 4.7… 😁
@@TireSlayer55 Oh it was by no means "lightning quick" lol. Just in comparison to my old, lifted 2008 JKUR on 34" tires it was. ua-cam.com/video/vDH8IbQZziU/v-deo.html
I feel like the V8 WJ’s are pretty peppy for a big heavy luxury SUV that was designed primarily for comfort and off road ability. Mine’s just the standard output 4.7L and it’s on 31” tires… while I wouldn’t call it fast per se it’s got enough power to make a fun daily driver. Most of my driving is between 0-45 MPH so I’m happy just being able to easily get ahead of slower traffic without needing to give it a ton of throttle. I hardly ever rev it over 3500 RPM in normal driving, but the few times I’ve ever given it over 3/4 throttle it’s surprised me. Compared to the two high mileage 4.0L XJ Cherokees I daily drove previously, the WJ feels like a rocket, lol. I did do the torque management wire snip and a TransGo shift kit which definitely made it feel more responsive in everyday driving.
@@TireSlayer55 Nice! Yeah, those are the same reasons I loved my WJ. I actually had my 2008 JKUR for 4.5 years and then downgraded to the 04 WJ Overland because of a job loss AND I secretely wanted V8 power in a solid axle Jeep! It was my first V8 in any vehicle I had owned and I absolutely loved it for what it was! I had a makeshift 2.5" lift from using the "Upcountry Springs" (a mopar accessory for those models) and a 2" Rusty's spacer lift. For shocks, a buddy of mine helped me fab some used JK Rubicon shock take offs to work with the WJ, and that thing handled and rode phenomenal! My dream now is to get a Rubicon 392 which is what I think the best of both worlds (muscle car and Jeep rock crawling). But man I sure did love that thing! Sometimes I wish I still had it! ua-cam.com/video/zjHuxnN-m3E/v-deo.html
Thank you for hosting this video I have to say you removed with it the intimidation out of me to do this. My jeep Liberty with over 300k miles I'm suspecting a lifter got stuck and one of the rockers got knocked over. I saw a video with ame symptoms as mine and I sure hope that's what it is. Have used synthetic oil but last year or so services have been at over 6600 mile if not more. I regreat it now but the damage is done.
I'm glad to hear the video gives you the confidence to do this yourself. My 01 Dodge Dakota recently passed the 300K mark several months ago. It also has a lash adjuster ticking.
Great video Sir !! Very helpful . I want to point out to others how clean the interior of that engine is . This is why you change your oil on a regular basis using quality synthetic oils and filters ! Thumbs up !!!
Very helpful video, thanks for posting this! Surprisingly easy once I got that stupid valve cover off. I have a question though, what if the lobes aren't all pointing up? I just went through this repair and it all went smoothly up until the last two rocker arms. I hadn't thought of that beforehand and I snapped out the rockers and replaced the lifters (which were entirely siezed up, so I know diagnosed it right), but now I cant get two of the rocker arms in. How screwed am I?
I want to give credit where credit is due. I had an extra 10m wrench and bent it in the vise to look like what you had and it worked great!! I used it 100% to remove lifters and 90% of the time to install, at times would have to use a screwdriver to install. I installed 16 lifters got them from Napa, Sealed Power lifters $240 job took about 15hrs ( I took my time and I don't do this as a profession) I reused the OEM valve cover gaskets they looked good and are installed and not leaking. I removed the water reservoir. The right valve cover I loosen the air conditioner condenser on the firewall, I removed the oil pickup and the air conditioner and moved it to the side to give me clearance to remove the valve cover. I soaked the lifters for 30 min in 5-30w and installed lifters and turned over the engine with socket wrench on the flywheel to ensure lifter lob was not depressed. Drove the truck for the past few days and runs great. Thx again for this video
Hey man great video I had purchased a 02 Durango and it has a bad lifter and I just found 3 rockers not connected like they fell off but just saw this video it’s going to help so much better but when I installed the rocker I accidentally loosened the bolts to crank but tighten it back up and it drove good after
Great video, very informative and your video quality really makes it easy to see what needs to be done to get the rocker off and back on. I have a 06 dakota I picked up. It needs valve cover gasket a but think I will tackle this as well while in there. Thank you for posting.
@@martinbuiltyou have quite the pool of knowledge for these motors. Would you recommend using a product like liquimoly engine flush on these motors? Considering doing so on my new to me 06 dakota with 160k miles before tackling valve cover gasket and new lifters.
Good evening. Are these adjusters just a matter of buying and installing them? Do I need to adjust them? Could you tell me which model to buy for a 2013 RAM 4.7? Thank you.
I was also taught that having your Jeep WJ run hot (210°F+) on the 4.7L causes the lifters to stick or fail = thousands in repairs. I have altered my cooling system from a hydrolic fan to a Viscous clutch fan with upgraded plastic 11 blade Ford 5.9L fan with slight modifications to clutch face and fan blade bolt holes. I only have an additional 6lbs on the water pump and that causes under 2MPG/3HP loss. Ive been doing fine without the fan shroud with my clutch fan and small E-Fan combo. 12.5" Spal fan that is rated at 2800-CFM and the Severe Duty Clutch fan has over 3650CFM according to my Anemometer
Also I have read stories where engine flush gets rid of the ticking sound (some times) and other stories where they tried everything including lifter replacement, and the noise still wouldn't go away.
I just ordered the set of lifters you have posted in the description, I have been using 10w30 Pennzoil ultra Platinum full synthetic because here in Texas I was told to run thicker oil from the high heat temps, so I will prime my new lifters that I have coming in 10w30 for 24 hours before I install, do y'all think its a good choice using 10w30 when I see Martin using 5w30? Any thoughts?????
Coming back to you for your thoughts. Replaced rockers, lifters, and timing set. Still clacking like it’s the lifters... got rid of the initial start up rattle from the chain but after a second of the engine running the clacks come on until it warms up.
@@martinbuilt yes. Everything but the gears. The chains used to rattle like hell when the engine first kicked over. Now it’s quiet for a couple seconds until it sounds like the rockers are tapping around.
My 4.7 currently sounds like a duramax when you cold start it with all the ticking, this might have just given me the boost to go change the lifters and rockers. Thank you!
@@martinbuilt I'll change out the lifters and rockers and see where that gets me. If it keeps it up I'll change the tensioners. I don't think the previous owner of it was very good on maintenance so I've kind of had to just run through everything on that motor.
@@martinbuilt just installed all new lifters and rockers and the tick remains. It goes away as soon as I'm up to temp though, you could be right it could be the chain tensioners
Great video.I’m about to change mine lifters and rockers figure while I have them off.I wanted to ask what is a good brand Lifter and rocker to go with besides mopar?Ive been told so many things my head is gona explode.Melling?Crown Auto?or can I go with a regular brand lifters and rockers.Any input would be great.thank you
Thank you I'm glad you liked it. Yes of course Mopar and Meilngs But you could also just check out the reviews on any lifter like on Amazon. And if they have great reviews I wouldn't be scared to purchase the less inexpensive ones. Also make sure that you soak them in I'm in motor oil for at least a couple days to help get the air out of them.
@@martinbuilt that I was gona do.Can I use the 5w30 full synthetic to soak them in?Also I heard to use assembly oil when installing them is that right?or is it something that is a must or don’t matter?You hear 10 different things and it adds to the stress.lol I appreciate you sharing some info.I’m a body guy so the Jeep looks brand new so I’m trying to keep the motor tip too haha.
@@martinbuilt Martin thank you for getting back to me.i changed the lifters and now I have the annoying tick tick tick tick.most likely a rocker arm.I’m waiting for new one they are on back order.but what isn’t making sence why wouldn’t it tick before I changed the lifters?and I did let them soak in oil.i always been spot on with the oil changes and always if anything they were done before time was up.any help be appreciated allot
Hi Martinbuilt great informative video! Kinda new to this have a couple of questions... should I remove the fan shroud before trying to turn the harmonic balancer to release a couple of valves and which way do I rotate it standing in front of the engine clockwise or counterclockwise? Thanks for your help!
Clockwise is best. I have turned it counterclockwise before with no problem. On my particular model I did not have to remove the hydraulic cooling fan as this is what is equipped on my 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. If there is not the room from above I would try from underneath you may need some help, someone to watch the camshaft lobe.
On the grand Cherokee if you're replacing the one on the passenger side I would replace all of them because of the difficulty of removing the valve cover if it's on the driver's side which is not too bad and you know which one it is I think I might just replace just the 1.
2007 Dakota 3.7. I am having a lifter ticking. Should I go ahead and replace all of them while I'm at it, or is it only necessary to replace the bad one? Also, how can I single out the problematic lifter? Never done anything like this before... Most I've ever done to an engine is replace the spark plugs. Thanks for the video!
Perhaps try using Marvel's Mystery Oil or Rislone with your next Oil Change see if that cures to tick. One of the ways to determine which lifter is ticking is with a mechanic's stethoscope being placed on the valve cover it still may be hard to narrow down the exact one. You may be best to replace all the ones on that cylinder head.
This guy has some massive balls. Look how he doesn't have anything covering the timing chain. If I did this the pennys in my pants pocket would fall into the engine.
Changing the lifters on my 09 dodge journey sxt fwd here soon.. Any best tips to make that go smoothly would be much appreciated. No knowledge outside of this video.. With having my mechanic deal with my engine it's always nerve racking, but I have faith in his abilities! He's a wonderful mechanic!
I looked into that and it's not the lifters on that engine that cause the noise. The rocker arm assemblies need to be replaced. Here is a video that explains the problem and fix. ua-cam.com/video/jEnErTFhuDU/v-deo.html
Hey Martin. Great video. I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7L V8. I have what sounds like a lifter tapping after realizing that I had NO oil in the motor! I had recently purchased it from a guy and I was only over maybe 1000 miles when the vehicle just completely shut down on me driving down the road. It took a few cranks but I got it running long enough to get a mile down the road. I put 4 quarts of oil and some engine restore and some mystery majic? Oil. The tapping slowed a great deal but I still have a tapping when I cold crank in the morning. It subsided shortly after the car is warm but I still here it faintly. I guess my question is, is there anyway to recognize which lifter has the problem without replacing all of them? Would I need to run the motor with the valve cover off? Also, could it just be a loos arm? This will be my first job in this car but I’ve had experience with other motors in the past. Any help would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work my friend!!
Well you could either use a mechanic stethoscope to narrow it down or a long screwdriver put the handle to your ear and place the screwdriver on the valve cover trying to figure out which lifter may be bad. It's not hard to change them and if you're changing the ones on the right side which is the hardest valve cover to get off you may want to change all of them. Very unlikely that there's anything wrong with the actual rocker arm. Thank you for the nice comment appreciate it
martinbuilt thanks for the quick response! I have heard of the screwdriver trick. Unfortunately it sounds like it IS coming from the right side so I will definitely replace them all while I’m in there...since you make it look so easy! 😄 Thanks again!
So will the rocker arm fall off of the lifter if it is bad? Or will the rocker arm stay in place? Or will it just be sitting loose inside of the valve cover? Thanks!
@@arronhannah3710 well there are several things that could happen if the rocker comes off because of a lifter failure. It can just fall off and no damage happen or it can (and most likely will) also shoot-off hit the valve cover knock a hole in it which I have seen before also the lifter may shootout and I've seen where it'll break part of the cylinder head off that holds the lifter in place. Most likely what happens you will end up with some camshaft damage to that lobe it can be ever so slight but it also could end up being bad enough to the camshaft would need to be replaced. This is why I recommend if you have lifters that sound bad that they should be replaced. In any case I would at least change the oil add some Marvel's Mystery Oil or Rislone this could help.
Martin, Great Content BTW. Is the block what the lifter goes in? If not can you tell me what it's called? Anywho the problem is one of mine broke off with the lifter inside still. Is there any secret to fix that or any way to fix that temporarily?
With these particular engines that is called the cylinder head. With many of the overhead Cam engines the lifter or lash adjuster will install into the cylinder head.. You may be able to remove the broken lifter with a magnet.
@@martinbuilt thanks for the reply. So it's the cylinder head that's broken just the 1. And the lifter came off still inside the a pc of aluminum block. Could I JB Weld or shut that particular cylinder down? Run on 7?
Great technique,almost every video on UA-cam shows having to remove or loosen camshaft bolts in order to accomplish this, hope I can do it this way on my 2016 Dodge Charger 3.6.
@@jasonl7025 Hello, I also have a 3.6 pentastar 2012 and I was just wondering if you were able to do this and was it difficult to do or is it just best to take it to a mechanic?
@@malve308 Hi Jorge: I did open my left valve cover as it is in the front and easily accessible. however I was not able to rotate my engine through the nut on harmonic balancer. Though I used a 25" break bar and could not rotate anything. Maybe I did not use enough force. Anyhow I don't want to apply too much force either. At the end, I used T30 bit to loose camshaft away from cam phaser and checked my rocker arms. I never touched the two T30 next to cam phaser. I would say if the bad rocker arms are away from cam phaser. It is doable and just be patient. If you want to replace rocker arm next to cam phaser. You would need the special tool or a good mechanic. Good luck. If you can rotate engine, it would be much easier.
I’m giving you a thumb up for showing how to remove the fulcrum and lifter but I wanna see the crap you go through to get to that point. i.e. All the top stuff you removed to get to that point etc.
Question please; I need to rotate the cam (on that same L.H. head as in video), because I'm about to put on timing sprocket and chain, but realized I'd run the valves into a piston. I do know cylinder #1 is @ TDC, so would I be ok with only removing #1 intake and exhaust rockers? I'd figure so since the other pistons are recessed. Thanks
i just bought new "melling" lifters, but some of them are firm and some are squishy. Is that a problem? (maybe the squishy ones will pump up when i run it the first time?) worried i got some defective ones...
Hello martinbuilt, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7. I have a CEL that's showing a P0172 code (bank 1 to rich) I've replaced a lot of parts from O2 sensors, fuel pump, fuel injectors, map sensor, IAC valve, intake manifold gasket, a Flowmaster catalytic converter, etc. I've had it to 3 different shops and they can't figure it out. I was told it may be low compression causing it, the lowest dry reading is on cylinder 1 @ 125 and the highest is 140 on cylinder 8. The truck only has 69,000 original miles on it. I bought it in Oct. of 2018 and it's had a CEL on from the time I bought it. I think it was originally a P0138, that's gone now but I've had the P0172 ever since. It won't pass emissions with that code I believe because the CEL is on. Any help would be appreciated, it's either fix it or try to get a waiver if I can. You are very knowledgeable on these engines so I thought maybe you could help me figure this out. Thanks in advance!
Looks like you have replace most of what I've listed here. P0172 is :system too rich (bank 1). This is usually caused by a restricted/clogged air intake filter. Manifold absolute pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, open thermostat, leaking fuel injectors, failing fuel pressure regulator, failing oxygen sensors.
@@martinbuilt Thanks for the reply Martin, I changed everything you mentioned. I forgot to mention changing the thermostat, engine coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump which is new too. I even swapped out the ECU with a refurbished one and the CEL still came on with the P0172 code, so I put the original back in. Thanks again for your help!
I don't think it's going to hurt anything. Most liking sitting on the bottom of the oil pan. You could try to use a magnet through the drain plug to see if you could retrieve it. The bore scope that I have has a magnet attachment that would work well. here is the video on that. ua-cam.com/video/qVED_EMvTdQ/v-deo.html Teslong NTS500 Triple Lens Endoscope amzn.to/35xiHqF
Hello Martin I have a 98' dak 3.9 with a exhaust header bolt blown out and it sounds like a tick but not exactly rocker or lifter damage but this looks pretty straight forward I was gonna upgrade them anyway, my understanding from this video also is you don't need to mess with the timing? or camshafts? Thanks.
The tick is coming from the exhaust manifold bolt that you mentioned there's probably nothing wrong with your lifters and rockers. Also if you have the 3.9 you have a push rod engine and this is for the 3.7 and 4.7 overhead Cam engine. Thank you for watching.
Hey Martin, my passenger side valve cover is making a ticking noise. Sounds similar to a lifter tick, however all my lifters and rockers are in place, the noise does not increase with acceleration, and I have no check engine light. I have dealt with a thrown rocker before so I know the loss of power feel but the ticking noise is apparent from the valve cover area on the passenger side. Any suggestions I can take a look at? Thank you!
Well it still could be a bad lifter or possibly the hydraulic tensioner for the timing chain on that side. Perhaps try some Marvel's mystery oil on your next oil change.
Great video man thank you. What brand lifter and rockers are you using getting ready to buy the parts and want to insure i get it done right the first time.
I am running the solid lifters (lash adjusters) from Airram.com and the rockers from a 2005 or newer 4.7/3.7 The solid lash adjusters are a lot of work to adjust the first time but I like them, or I would recommend Millings
Martin, I could not find the video where you talk about adding rislone oil treatment to your oil. Which product do you use to help reduce the tapping noise from the valves? Thanks Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
Martin, can you explain how does the lifter actually get oil to it. I'm wondering if there are oil channels going to the lifter that could be clogged. I have terrible lifter ticking all the time. Have replaced all lifters and still the ticking. Is worse when it's very cold out (michigan) but yet after an hour of driving it's still ticking very loud. Every mechanic that has check it out (2004 dakota 4.7) has said it's lifters ticking. What do you think??
Yes, there is an oil galley. It is possible that they are clogged. One way to check is to remove the lifters (lash adjusters) and plug the spark plugs. Rotate the engine over with the starter until you that oil is coming out of all the lifter bosses. This will force any blockage out.
I have a bit of confusion: Prime, dont prime. Soak, dont soak. Im confused. Ive seen both online. Do I need to soak and prime the lifters, or did you put new ones in out of the box? Could really use your assistance on this, as this is the first time Ive done a job like this.
I would recommend soaking them in motor oil for at least a day to work out any air. This will also reduce any rocker arm from coming out on the initial start-up. Thank you for watching.
What a good video. So is there any adjustments required for doing a swap out, or is this just a straight replacement. I would have no idea how to set things if that’s required. I’d have to do a whole bunch more research on how to do that. lol. 2007 Jeep Liberty with the 3.7.
I could really use some help. I just put new lifters and rocker arms in my 4.7. When I started it, it started perfectly fine, but it had a little bit of a rough idle. No noise no ticking, but it sounds like one cylinder might be dead? I am getting rough fuel out of my exhaust. I’m wondering if I might have screwed up a wire to one of my spark plugs, causing that cylinder to not fire? But I hope I didn’t ruin something in the valve train.
Did you soak the new lifters in oil to remove the air prior to installing them the reason I asked I'm kind of curious if one of the rocker arms didn't come off on the initial startup.
I did, and I started working on it again this morning, and all is good. One of my injector wires had been rubbed past insulation and was grounding out. It caused one of the injectors to stay open while running, and filled my exhaust with raw gas, which smoked pretty bad. Thank you for getting back to me as soon as you did! I watched your videos over and over before I started this project and it made all the difference. Thank you!
Hi Martin, do you need all the items you listed in your description? I see that you have 3 different gasket sets listed, just curious (I am new to working on engines). Also, do I need to get that single seal power valve lifter or can I just get the set of the lifters?
I may list several different valve cover gaskets because they changed From magnesium to plastic. You can get whichever brand lifter you like, Thanks for watching.
I followed your video of putting the rocker arm back on and it seems to lightly snap on. You have to use a screwdriver to pop it off. I changed the lifter too. It doesn't snap back on like your video...I've been at it all day. It's cylinder 8..the very last rocker arm.
Question. Should the lifters be able to compress by hand? I have some that don't compress by hand and I also have some that have play? What should I be looking for?
Did you have to do any adjustments (lash) when you changes out the lifters and rockers? I’m getting ready to install all new lifters on my 08 Durango. Please get back to me. Thanks
No need to do any adjustments the lash adjusters are self adjusting I would just suggest soaking them in clean motor oil for at least several hours Or longer before installing them.
????? Another quick question. I I have a 08- 4.7. Will it have the upgraded no hole rockers already? I have never opened the valve covers since I’ve owned it. No leaks!👍
Well. I failed at trying to get the passenger valve cover off to change the lifters! Very frustrated. I have no clearance in the engine bay to get the cover to clear over the cam and the journals. The only way I think I could do it? I’d drop the motor. Don’t have the tools to do that. I’ll probably just take it to a garage to get them replaced. Thanks for all the help though.👍
Hi Martin, is there a way to test the hydraulic lifter if it is bad by moving the tip up and down? Most of my lifters have tips that can move up and down by hand, but two are solid. A tow truck driver told me the ones that move are bad, but idk which ones are causing the tapping at start-up.
Yes, when I swapped out my camshafts all the lifters had no movement and I did not have any lifter noise whatsoever. I would say he is correct if they easily move up and down where you can plunge the tip those are most likely bad
@@martinbuilt Awesome thanks for the tip! would you say the same for lifters? I bought some "budget" ones on Amazon and even though they had overall great reviews, half of them arrived with a little bit of play.
No it will not change the timing all your timing chains and sprockets are still connected. Just make sure you're turning the engine clockwise when you're facing the engine.
Hello, back to you for help. As I have commented before on this video, replaced timing components and lash adjusters and I still get the dreaded ticking for a few minutes on cold start. I have a monitor and I recently noticed my oil pressure was stuck, not fluctuating at all. I ended up replacing the pressure sensor and it shows the same thing. This is on a Dodge Ram, these sensors are supposed to give somewhat of an accurate reading correct? I am now thinking I have a blockage in the sensor area limiting oil to the lifters when cold. Common area for sludge to stick? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
I would remove the sensor and temporarily install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the oil pressure. You also use Marvel's Mystery Oil to help clean the engine. Use 5w30 motor oil.
Thanks for the quick reply. I was running marvels until I noticed it thinned the oil to the point the clacking was more frequent, happening even after letting the truck sit for an hour. I will try reading pressure manually. If that doesn’t show I’m going to try pulling the sensor on the next oil change and cleaning in there with something. I also notice there is a plug to the right of the sensor. Any idea what it’s there for and what size the hex is?
Great video, at my former shop(I was promoted to manager/tech at another shop in company) we replaced 4.7 that had bad valve springs, you could hear cylinder pushing back into intake. So we have new/used low mile LKQ engine and it's tapping. My money IS sticky or collapsed lifter, runs too good other wise. Bad thing is it's number 8 that's misfiring.
I am going to tackle valve stem seals on 2006 Jeep commander 4.7 . 145k miles almost. Should I do the lifters right away and if so , any recommendations for brand of lifters and stem seals. Any other pointers ?
if you don't have any lifter tick I would leave them a lone. If you do have lifter noise you could try either of these two products before replacing the lifters. Rislone Engine Treatment Conditioner and Cleaner amzn.to/3mSUduP Marvel Mystery Oil amzn.to/3oQCbeF as far the the lifter brand I would check out the reviews on the lifters.
@@martinbuilt I appreciate you response. There’s no lifter ticks that I’m hearing. I was just concerned about the lifters after I heard it’s a common issue of the 4.7. I will take your advice and leave the lifters be but I will do the valve stem seals because of the cloud on startup and oil consumption . How do you feel about feld pro brand valve stem seals?
I believe this engine has lifters that have oil holes that need to be aligned when installing them into the heads. Dont forget to check just to make sure
2008 jeep Liberty 3.7 puting in timing chain got at tdc drivers cam went on pretty easily passenger side seems like it's fair amount of from where it should be. any ideas of what I am doing wrong
The main reason to run this product is pure and simple... Horsepower. A solid lifter valvetrain is more consistent, opens to a greater extent, and closes faster than a hydraulic setup. This translates into better control of the valvetrain, as well as more duration spent at higher flow valve lifts. In essence, more high rpm power is found by eliminating the physical "collapse" (and resulting power loss) experienced by hydraulic lifters at certain rpm thresholds and valve spring pressure levels. airram.com/product.php?categoryid=19&productid=1416 If you order a set let Nick know that I set you.
Just subscribed. But I'm the kind of guy who never did much besides changing tires and oil, so I wish your video started from the beginning, taking whatever off to expose the lifters in the first place. Step by step, is best for us newbes. Also, you say the Rocker lobe should be upward but don't tell us how to get it that way, will it move by hand? Do we have to roll the car to make it move? (I'm watching on a small phone screen) are you moving it by applying pressure with a pry-screw driver?
if a Dodge engine tosses a rocker arm, you need to change the VALVE SPRING, in addition to the lifter- not just the lifter. the clearance comes from the spring being weak, not following the cam profile tightly and clearance opening up. if you put spacers under the lifter, you will only collapse the spring more and more, and eventually break the spring. change the lifter and spring, it will run fine and not lose rockers.
I just did a lifter replacement on a 2007 Liberty 3.7. Only did one side that was noisy. All went well, but engine has a slight vibration now at idle. Not sure why, but it’s not missing or anything. Is it bad to only do one side? Or should I be doing the other side anyway.
@@martinbuilt I don’t think so? It is a very slight vibration when in park. Almost not noticeable, but we mechanics hear the slightest things sometimes. The valve train side I worked on is totally silent so I don’t think anything had come loose or popped off. I’d for sure hear that. Will keep an eye on it but daughter says it’s running totally fine. Probably do the other side this week once more lifters come in. Thanks for your video, it was super helpful. Thank god guys like you take the time to make these things for us!!!!
Hey Martin, I went to the air ram website looking for the adjustable fulcrums that you have in your 4.7. but they do not list ant parts at all. so maybe they are going under??? any idea who actually made them? personally, i like EVERYTHING to be manually adjustable. also, i have a 3.7 in my Jeep Liberty. have you ever found ANY hi performance parts for that engine?
You made the rocker arm and lifter look very simple to remove and reinstall. Sometimes I like to work on my own vehicle, dealerships rates are outrageous. Thanks
yeah, they are easy to replace, the hard part is getting the valve covers off with all the wiring and hoses that are in the way.
I have an 09 Dodge Ram 1500 with 330,000 miles on it. I have used full synthetic oil since day one. The lifters started ticking about 10,000 miles ago but I am now finally able to dedicate the time to do this job as this has been my main vehicle and I couldn't afford to let it sit for too long. I hope to get another 50 to 60 thousand miles before I finally trade it off. I've not had to do anything major to the engine, just a couple sets of plugs, a sepentine belt and tensioner, and 3 water pumps. I also had to replace the radiator at about 200k miles. Along with the lifters, I'm replacing the complete timing set, spark plugs and wires, valve cover gaskets, heater hoses, upper and lower radiator hoses and water pump. Maybe I'm sinking too much time and money into something with this many miles, but this has been one of the most trouble-free vehicles I have ever owned, and I have definitely gotten my money's worth on this pickup.
You fix it?
Word.
It would be smarter the get new heads at 170k the bearing on cams already toasted so
With that motor, the oil journals where the oil comes from to the lifter gets plugged not getting enough oil to the lifter. It's not usually the lifter. Take lifter out. Crank over the motor to blow out the oil journals that are plugged. You will know when the oil squirts and hits the hood so best put a rag over it. Only takes a crank or two to unplug them. Replace the lifter or use a new one. Works every time. It took me 4 times taking mine apart to figure it out with new lifters.
I'm sending my kids dad a screenshot of your reply... Smdh poor dude... They getting him for a whole motor 😩😂 I'm in another state or I'd prove a whole point 😂🥰
How do I krank over the motor? If it's all taken apart?
@@machetesulaco Why would you take it "all " apart? Just take off the valve covers and pull the lifter out that isn't working. You don't want to start it until you get it back together
@@machetesulaco turn harmonic balancer using its bolt
These are OHC engines, so they don't have "lifters". They're hydraulic valve lash adjusters.
Always change your oil on time with full synthetic and try not to constantly romp on the accelerator and you're golden. I have an 03 Durango with the 4.7 and it has been a very reliable engine. 171,000 miles. I've had it for 4 years and the only things I've had to replace were the radiator and the alternator. Now the front end is another story, but that's a just Dodge thing 😂
I just got done doing my lifter on a 2002 dodge ram 1500 4.7 i removed air intake, wire harnesses, radiator hose, disconnected the battery, removed master cylinder from brake drum,and removed brake drum in preparation for this project. Everything went well except the parts store sent a wrong part in place of one of the lifters. i had to go back to the store get the right one and soak in oil for another 12 hours(i cheated and soaked for 8 so i could have it done that day). I used his advice through the whole project and it went well. 2 thumbs up!!! thank for taking your time spent making this video.
thank you for your video i just replaced the lifters in my 2002 jeep liberty 3.7l i used a 10 mm wrench , bent the end and grinded on it to make it thinner, it popped the rocker right out just like you showed. and used a small pry bar and a flat screw driver to pop the rocker back in. thank you very much for sharing your knoledge.
Thanks Martin for posting this video. My 01 WJ 4.7 had a valve seat come loose about a month ago and I took the heads off and had the machine shop replace all the valve seats. They had a way to install them so that they won't come off again. Well I put the engine back together and it ran great for a few days. Then this morning I went to start it and it made a loud tapping sound followed by an engine miss and a p0303 engine miss code. I had a hunch that a rocker came off and pulled the driver's side valve cover off and there it was. The exhaust rocker fell off. Bought a new lifter for about $13 and popped in like you did and it runs great again. The previous owner wasn't too good about doing regular oil changes and so there was a fair amount of sludge in the engine. I dropped the oil pan and clean the pick up tube and screen as well to be safe. So far so good. Thanks again! Very helpful video.
I'm glad everything worked out for you. You may want to try some Rislone engine treatment to clean out that sludge.
I remember reading someplace awhile back that another problem with these engines is carbon on the valve stems. Supposedly if enough carbon builds on the valve and causes it to stick for even like a fraction of a second, the rocker arm will fall out .
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and explain everything in detail, I'll be replacing my lifters next weekend and it's nice to know it won't be a 3 day event.
You're welcome, the hard part is getting the valve covers off due to all the hoses and wiring harness that run over top of the covers. Once you got them off I think it's pretty easy to change out the lifters
@@martinbuilt ok that's good to know. I'm hoping replacing the lifters will rid the light color smoke during start up and the engine tick. It goes away after a few minutes but it's definitely bugging me
@@somanynamesilltrythis0180 you didn't mention the light colored smoke on Startup that sounds more like valve guide seals. Now the tick noise your hearing is the lifters. I just recently did a video where I install the 08 camshafts new valve springs, retainers and valve guide seals you may want to check that out.
Number is gasquet
Say Bruh, thank you very much. I thought that I was going to have to, pass out, wake up, and still have to deal with this problem. But then I see you. Smooth, direct, straight to the point. Now I got it. Again, THANKS BRUH. Much Love For You
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching.
We bought a 04 Durango with the 4.7, I have the 4.7 in my 04 Ram as well. My Ram runs like a dream, has slight noise on startup but goes away within seconds. It has 201k on it, I got it with 165k. Previously it was a state owned vehicle so had regular maintenance. The Durango on the other hand has about 155k, has significant noise that does not go away. I know these motors are notorious for valvetrain noise due to the valve adjusters getting plugged with crap, but didn’t know how hard it would be to repair. After watching this video I am confident that I can get the job done myself. Thanks for the video, to the point and not a lot of irrelevant talking.
I’m doing this right now on my long weekend . I underestimated getting driver side valve cover off .. it’s a pain in the rear end . But anyways I just wanted to say thank your all the videos that you do . I watched your timing chain video an handful of times before I did mine on my dodge .
I'm glad you find the content helpful. Thank you for watching.
thank you martin , your knowledge is very helpful, i just bought a 4.7 WG and love it to bits. all your videos are professional. cheers
You sir, have made my day. I was just about to buy the tool and was worried about lead time on it (plus the price). I already have a 10mm brake line wrench ready to volunteer. Thanks again.
if that wrench doesn't work for you, Autozone has a set of distributor wrenches that will work. Even a pair of needle-nose pliers with the angled tip would work.
Sometimes I miss that ol’ 04 WJ overland I had. It was my first V8 and even though I’d laugh at it now, that thing felt lightning quick after owning my 08 JKUR for nearly 5 years. Lol! Great video!
Maybe not actually lightning quick, but the 4.7 HO’s are definitely not slow. Certainly a lot more power than a JK. Rented a JKU for a week on vacation and I liked the Jeep but missed my 4.7… 😁
@@TireSlayer55 Oh it was by no means "lightning quick" lol. Just in comparison to my old, lifted 2008 JKUR on 34" tires it was. ua-cam.com/video/vDH8IbQZziU/v-deo.html
@@TireSlayer55 for comparison, this was my 2004 WJ H.O. 4.7 (on 32" tires and 2" lift) ua-cam.com/video/H5o-HEdtSrM/v-deo.html
I feel like the V8 WJ’s are pretty peppy for a big heavy luxury SUV that was designed primarily for comfort and off road ability. Mine’s just the standard output 4.7L and it’s on 31” tires… while I wouldn’t call it fast per se it’s got enough power to make a fun daily driver. Most of my driving is between 0-45 MPH so I’m happy just being able to easily get ahead of slower traffic without needing to give it a ton of throttle. I hardly ever rev it over 3500 RPM in normal driving, but the few times I’ve ever given it over 3/4 throttle it’s surprised me. Compared to the two high mileage 4.0L XJ Cherokees I daily drove previously, the WJ feels like a rocket, lol. I did do the torque management wire snip and a TransGo shift kit which definitely made it feel more responsive in everyday driving.
@@TireSlayer55 Nice! Yeah, those are the same reasons I loved my WJ. I actually had my 2008 JKUR for 4.5 years and then downgraded to the 04 WJ Overland because of a job loss AND I secretely wanted V8 power in a solid axle Jeep! It was my first V8 in any vehicle I had owned and I absolutely loved it for what it was! I had a makeshift 2.5" lift from using the "Upcountry Springs" (a mopar accessory for those models) and a 2" Rusty's spacer lift. For shocks, a buddy of mine helped me fab some used JK Rubicon shock take offs to work with the WJ, and that thing handled and rode phenomenal! My dream now is to get a Rubicon 392 which is what I think the best of both worlds (muscle car and Jeep rock crawling). But man I sure did love that thing! Sometimes I wish I still had it! ua-cam.com/video/zjHuxnN-m3E/v-deo.html
Thank you for hosting this video I have to say you removed with it the intimidation out of me to do this. My jeep Liberty with over 300k miles I'm suspecting a lifter got stuck and one of the rockers got knocked over.
I saw a video with ame symptoms as mine and I sure hope that's what it is.
Have used synthetic oil but last year or so services have been at over 6600 mile if not more.
I regreat it now but the damage is done.
I'm glad to hear the video gives you the confidence to do this yourself. My 01 Dodge Dakota recently passed the 300K mark several months ago. It also has a lash adjuster ticking.
Great video Sir !!
Very helpful .
I want to point out to others how clean the interior of that engine is . This is why you change your oil on a regular basis using quality synthetic oils and filters !
Thumbs up !!!
Very helpful video, thanks for posting this! Surprisingly easy once I got that stupid valve cover off. I have a question though, what if the lobes aren't all pointing up? I just went through this repair and it all went smoothly up until the last two rocker arms. I hadn't thought of that beforehand and I snapped out the rockers and replaced the lifters (which were entirely siezed up, so I know diagnosed it right), but now I cant get two of the rocker arms in. How screwed am I?
Thanks
Just fixed a friend's 2002 Ram 1500 V-6
Luckily RF cylinder so it was easy breazy
JT
Orlando, FLA
I want to give credit where credit is due. I had an extra 10m wrench and bent it in the vise to look like what you had and it worked great!! I used it 100% to remove lifters and 90% of the time to install, at times would have to use a screwdriver to install. I installed 16 lifters got them from Napa, Sealed Power lifters $240 job took about 15hrs ( I took my time and I don't do this as a profession) I reused the OEM valve cover gaskets they looked good and are installed and not leaking. I removed the water reservoir. The right valve cover I loosen the air conditioner condenser on the firewall, I removed the oil pickup and the air conditioner and moved it to the side to give me clearance to remove the valve cover. I soaked the lifters for 30 min in 5-30w and installed lifters and turned over the engine with socket wrench on the flywheel to ensure lifter lob was not depressed. Drove the truck for the past few days and runs great. Thx again for this video
rlarson3232
That's awesome glad everything worked out for you.
I forgot to say this was a 2001 Dodge Dakota
When I did the HO cam install I had to move many of the same things that you did. Thanks for posting your comments.
Were you working on 4.7
Hey man great video I had purchased a 02 Durango and it has a bad lifter and I just found 3 rockers not connected like they fell off but just saw this video it’s going to help so much better but when I installed the rocker I accidentally loosened the bolts to crank but tighten it back up and it drove good after
Easy as pie, thanks for your video. Your right keep oil clean, like any engine.
Great video, very informative and your video quality really makes it easy to see what needs to be done to get the rocker off and back on. I have a 06 dakota I picked up. It needs valve cover gasket a but think I will tackle this as well while in there. Thank you for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@martinbuiltyou have quite the pool of knowledge for these motors. Would you recommend using a product like liquimoly engine flush on these motors? Considering doing so on my new to me 06 dakota with 160k miles before tackling valve cover gasket and new lifters.
Good evening. Are these adjusters just a matter of buying and installing them? Do I need to adjust them? Could you tell me which model to buy for a 2013 RAM 4.7? Thank you.
Thank you sir! I’m working on my dads 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overlander, easy to understand and helpful. Much appreciated!😎
Thank you I really appreciate that i'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
I was also taught that having your Jeep WJ run hot (210°F+) on the 4.7L causes the lifters to stick or fail = thousands in repairs.
I have altered my cooling system from a hydrolic fan to a Viscous clutch fan with upgraded plastic 11 blade Ford 5.9L fan with slight modifications to clutch face and fan blade bolt holes.
I only have an additional 6lbs on the water pump and that causes under 2MPG/3HP loss.
Ive been doing fine without the fan shroud with my clutch fan and small E-Fan combo. 12.5" Spal fan that is rated at 2800-CFM and the Severe Duty Clutch fan has over 3650CFM according to my Anemometer
martin i love the cadence and the way you relay information to the audience keep up the good work.
Also I have read stories where engine flush gets rid of the ticking sound (some times) and other stories where they tried everything including lifter replacement, and the noise still wouldn't go away.
I'm having that problem!
Great video. Very useful info. Not having to take the camshafts out to replace the rockers or the lifters 👍👍👍
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.😎👍
1st time I see your video you explain so much easy to understand thanks
Glad it helped!
Hey, Martin - the "crafted" 10mm worked BETTER than the Dodge tool! Thanks for posting this vid. Everything worked better than I expected.
Your welcome, sometimes the simplest tools are the best.
I just ordered the set of lifters you have posted in the description, I have been using 10w30 Pennzoil ultra Platinum full synthetic because here in Texas I was told to run thicker oil from the high heat temps, so I will prime my new lifters that I have coming in 10w30 for 24 hours before I install, do y'all think its a good choice using 10w30 when I see Martin using 5w30? Any thoughts?????
Coming back to you for your thoughts. Replaced rockers, lifters, and timing set. Still clacking like it’s the lifters... got rid of the initial start up rattle from the chain but after a second of the engine running the clacks come on until it warms up.
did you replace the hydraulic tensioners when you did the timing chain set?
@@martinbuilt yes. Everything but the gears. The chains used to rattle like hell when the engine first kicked over. Now it’s quiet for a couple seconds until it sounds like the rockers are tapping around.
2014 Dodger Durango 3.6L.... worked perfect!! Thanks for the post. Hardest part was getting everything else taken off to get to it.
Your welcome, yeah there is a lot of stuff that needs to be moved just to get the valve cover off.
The 3.6 is a completely different engine.
Martin you just set me on fire! Mad props!
My 4.7 currently sounds like a duramax when you cold start it with all the ticking, this might have just given me the boost to go change the lifters and rockers. Thank you!
That would have me very concerned. It also could be the hydraulic timing chain tensioners that are making all the noise.
@@martinbuilt I'll change out the lifters and rockers and see where that gets me. If it keeps it up I'll change the tensioners. I don't think the previous owner of it was very good on maintenance so I've kind of had to just run through everything on that motor.
@@gdcatalyst7812 Yeah oil changes intervals are important with this engine.
@@martinbuilt just installed all new lifters and rockers and the tick remains. It goes away as soon as I'm up to temp though, you could be right it could be the chain tensioners
Gonna do this on my 00 4.7 Dakota been lifter ticking whole 3yrs owned it 8k miles gonna hopefully do it and be warm out
Great video.I’m about to change mine lifters and rockers figure while I have them off.I wanted to ask what is a good brand Lifter and rocker to go with besides mopar?Ive been told so many things my head is gona explode.Melling?Crown Auto?or can I go with a regular brand lifters and rockers.Any input would be great.thank you
Thank you I'm glad you liked it.
Yes of course Mopar and Meilngs But you could also just check out the reviews on any lifter like on Amazon. And if they have great reviews I wouldn't be scared to purchase the less inexpensive ones.
Also make sure that you soak them in I'm in motor oil for at least a couple days to help get the air out of them.
@@martinbuilt that I was gona do.Can I use the 5w30 full synthetic to soak them in?Also I heard to use assembly oil when installing them is that right?or is it something that is a must or don’t matter?You hear 10 different things and it adds to the stress.lol I appreciate you sharing some info.I’m a body guy so the Jeep looks brand new so I’m trying to keep the motor tip too haha.
@@martinbuilt Martin thank you for getting back to me.i changed the lifters and now I have the annoying tick tick tick tick.most likely a rocker arm.I’m waiting for new one they are on back order.but what isn’t making sence why wouldn’t it tick before I changed the lifters?and I did let them soak in oil.i always been spot on with the oil changes and always if anything they were done before time was up.any help be appreciated allot
Thank you for that sir...makes it easier than I thought it was going to be. Love it!🙌
you are welcome, you'll find getting the valve cover off is the hardest part of this job.
Do you need to preload new lifters with oil before installing them? Also any videos on bench rebuild of cylinder head?
Yes soak the lifters in motor oil to work out any air.
No I don't have any videos on that.
Thank you for watching 🙂
Hi Martinbuilt great informative video! Kinda new to this have a couple of questions... should I remove the fan shroud before trying to turn the harmonic balancer to release a couple of valves and which way do I rotate it standing in front of the engine clockwise or counterclockwise? Thanks for your help!
Clockwise is best. I have turned it counterclockwise before with no problem. On my particular model I did not have to remove the hydraulic cooling fan as this is what is equipped on my 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. If there is not the room from above I would try from underneath you may need some help, someone to watch the camshaft lobe.
Great video as always. Quick question if you have one bad lifter should you just replace the one or replace all of them?
On the grand Cherokee if you're replacing the one on the passenger side I would replace all of them because of the difficulty of removing the valve cover if it's on the driver's side which is not too bad and you know which one it is I think I might just replace just the 1.
Great video. Short, sweet & to the point.
Thank you 😊
I'm glad you liked it 👍
So if the cam shaft is in the wrong place? Do we still change it? Or is there a way to move it before you put it back together?
2007 Dakota 3.7. I am having a lifter ticking. Should I go ahead and replace all of them while I'm at it, or is it only necessary to replace the bad one? Also, how can I single out the problematic lifter? Never done anything like this before... Most I've ever done to an engine is replace the spark plugs. Thanks for the video!
Perhaps try using Marvel's Mystery Oil or Rislone with your next Oil Change see if that cures to tick. One of the ways to determine which lifter is ticking is with a mechanic's stethoscope being placed on the valve cover it still may be hard to narrow down the exact one. You may be best to replace all the ones on that cylinder head.
martinbuilt Thanks for your quick and helpful reply.
This guy has some massive balls. Look how he doesn't have anything covering the timing chain. If I did this the pennys in my pants pocket would fall into the engine.
Changing the lifters on my 09 dodge journey sxt fwd here soon.. Any best tips to make that go smoothly would be much appreciated. No knowledge outside of this video.. With having my mechanic deal with my engine it's always nerve racking, but I have faith in his abilities! He's a wonderful mechanic!
I looked into that and it's not the lifters on that engine that cause the noise. The rocker arm assemblies need to be replaced. Here is a video that explains the problem and fix. ua-cam.com/video/jEnErTFhuDU/v-deo.html
Hey Martin. Great video. I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7L V8. I have what sounds like a lifter tapping after realizing that I had NO oil in the motor! I had recently purchased it from a guy and I was only over maybe 1000 miles when the vehicle just completely shut down on me driving down the road. It took a few cranks but I got it running long enough to get a mile down the road. I put 4 quarts of oil and some engine restore and some mystery majic? Oil. The tapping slowed a great deal but I still have a tapping when I cold crank in the morning. It subsided shortly after the car is warm but I still here it faintly.
I guess my question is, is there anyway to recognize which lifter has the problem without replacing all of them? Would I need to run the motor with the valve cover off? Also, could it just be a loos arm? This will be my first job in this car but I’ve had experience with other motors in the past. Any help would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work my friend!!
Well you could either use a mechanic stethoscope to narrow it down or a long screwdriver put the handle to your ear and place the screwdriver on the valve cover trying to figure out which lifter may be bad. It's not hard to change them and if you're changing the ones on the right side which is the hardest valve cover to get off you may want to change all of them. Very unlikely that there's anything wrong with the actual rocker arm. Thank you for the nice comment appreciate it
martinbuilt thanks for the quick response! I have heard of the screwdriver trick. Unfortunately it sounds like it IS coming from the right side so I will definitely replace them all while I’m in there...since you make it look so easy! 😄 Thanks again!
So will the rocker arm fall off of the lifter if it is bad? Or will the rocker arm stay in place? Or will it just be sitting loose inside of the valve cover? Thanks!
@@arronhannah3710 well there are several things that could happen if the rocker comes off because of a lifter failure. It can just fall off and no damage happen or it can (and most likely will) also shoot-off hit the valve cover knock a hole in it which I have seen before also the lifter may shootout and I've seen where it'll break part of the cylinder head off that holds the lifter in place. Most likely what happens you will end up with some camshaft damage to that lobe it can be ever so slight but it also could end up being bad enough to the camshaft would need to be replaced. This is why I recommend if you have lifters that sound bad that they should be replaced. In any case I would at least change the oil add some Marvel's Mystery Oil or Rislone this could help.
Martin, Great Content BTW. Is the block what the lifter goes in? If not can you tell me what it's called? Anywho the problem is one of mine broke off with the lifter inside still. Is there any secret to fix that or any way to fix that temporarily?
With these particular engines that is called the cylinder head. With many of the overhead Cam engines the lifter or lash adjuster will install into the cylinder head..
You may be able to remove the broken lifter with a magnet.
@@martinbuilt thanks for the reply. So it's the cylinder head that's broken just the 1. And the lifter came off still inside the a pc of aluminum block. Could I JB Weld or shut that particular cylinder down? Run on 7?
Great technique,almost every video on UA-cam shows having to remove or loosen camshaft bolts in order to accomplish this, hope I can do it this way on my 2016 Dodge Charger 3.6.
Hi Mateollios: did you accomplish this way on your charger? I am going to start tomorrow on my 2012 Pentastar V6. Thanks a lot
@@jasonl7025
Hello,
I also have a 3.6 pentastar 2012 and I was just wondering if you were able to do this and was it difficult to do or is it just best to take it to a mechanic?
@@malve308 Hi Jorge: I did open my left valve cover as it is in the front and easily accessible. however I was not able to rotate my engine through the nut on harmonic balancer. Though I used a 25" break bar and could not rotate anything. Maybe I did not use enough force. Anyhow I don't want to apply too much force either. At the end, I used T30 bit to loose camshaft away from cam phaser and checked my rocker arms. I never touched the two T30 next to cam phaser. I would say if the bad rocker arms are away from cam phaser. It is doable and just be patient. If you want to replace rocker arm next to cam phaser. You would need the special tool or a good mechanic. Good luck. If you can rotate engine, it would be much easier.
Gearsoft is it possible to turn the engine key in order to turn the camshaft to the desired position ?
@@Miguelgarcia888 Yes. You can check this video out. ua-cam.com/video/5zSjArepmfw/v-deo.html. I am not an mechanic and not sure whether it is safe
I’m giving you a thumb up for showing how to remove the fulcrum and lifter but I wanna see the crap you go through to get to that point. i.e. All the top stuff you removed to get to that point etc.
Question please; I need to rotate the cam (on that same L.H. head as in video), because I'm about to put on timing sprocket and chain, but realized I'd run the valves into a piston. I do know cylinder #1 is @ TDC, so would I be ok with only removing #1 intake and exhaust rockers? I'd figure so since the other pistons are recessed. Thanks
i just bought new "melling" lifters, but some of them are firm and some are squishy. Is that a problem? (maybe the squishy ones will pump up when i run it the first time?) worried i got some defective ones...
Hello martinbuilt, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7. I have a CEL that's showing a P0172 code (bank 1 to rich) I've replaced a lot of parts from O2 sensors, fuel pump, fuel injectors, map sensor, IAC valve, intake manifold gasket, a Flowmaster catalytic converter, etc. I've had it to 3 different shops and they can't figure it out. I was told it may be low compression causing it, the lowest dry reading is on cylinder 1 @ 125 and the highest is 140 on cylinder 8. The truck only has 69,000 original miles on it. I bought it in Oct. of 2018 and it's had a CEL on from the time I bought it. I think it was originally a P0138, that's gone now but I've had the P0172 ever since. It won't pass emissions with that code I believe because the CEL is on. Any help would be appreciated, it's either fix it or try to get a waiver if I can. You are very knowledgeable on these engines so I thought maybe you could help me figure this out. Thanks in advance!
Looks like you have replace most of what I've listed here.
P0172 is :system too rich (bank 1). This is usually caused by a restricted/clogged air intake filter. Manifold absolute pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, open thermostat, leaking fuel injectors, failing fuel pressure regulator, failing oxygen sensors.
@@martinbuilt Thanks for the reply Martin, I changed everything you mentioned. I forgot to mention changing the thermostat, engine coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump which is new too. I even swapped out the ECU with a refurbished one and the CEL still came on with the P0172 code, so I put the original back in. Thanks again for your help!
Hey Martin, what would you recommend I do if I dropped a small bolt down the oil drain within the camshaft case? Right under the rocker.
I don't think it's going to hurt anything. Most liking sitting on the bottom of the oil pan.
You could try to use a magnet through the drain plug to see if you could retrieve it.
The bore scope that I have has a magnet attachment that would work well.
here is the video on that.
ua-cam.com/video/qVED_EMvTdQ/v-deo.html
Teslong NTS500 Triple Lens Endoscope amzn.to/35xiHqF
@@martinbuilt you are amazing thank you so much.🙏🏼
Hello Martin I have a 98' dak 3.9 with a exhaust header bolt blown out and it sounds like a tick but not exactly rocker or lifter damage but this looks pretty straight forward I was gonna upgrade them anyway, my understanding from this video also is you don't need to mess with the timing? or camshafts? Thanks.
The tick is coming from the exhaust manifold bolt that you mentioned there's probably nothing wrong with your lifters and rockers. Also if you have the 3.9 you have a push rod engine and this is for the 3.7 and 4.7 overhead Cam engine.
Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt Thanks for the info Martin I appreciate that.
Hey Martin, my passenger side valve cover is making a ticking noise. Sounds similar to a lifter tick, however all my lifters and rockers are in place, the noise does not increase with acceleration, and I have no check engine light. I have dealt with a thrown rocker before so I know the loss of power feel but the ticking noise is apparent from the valve cover area on the passenger side. Any suggestions I can take a look at? Thank you!
Well it still could be a bad lifter or possibly the hydraulic tensioner for the timing chain on that side.
Perhaps try some Marvel's mystery oil on your next oil change.
Great video man thank you.
What brand lifter and rockers are you using getting ready to buy the parts and want to insure i get it done right the first time.
I am running the solid lifters (lash adjusters) from Airram.com and the rockers from a 2005 or newer 4.7/3.7
The solid lash adjusters are a lot of work to adjust the first time but I like them, or I would recommend Millings
Martin,
I could not find the video where you talk about adding rislone oil treatment to your oil. Which product do you use to help reduce the tapping noise from the valves? Thanks Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
It was in this video. ua-cam.com/video/CUjXb7f_pEU/v-deo.html Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year to you and yours!
Martin, can you explain how does the lifter actually get oil to it. I'm wondering if there are oil channels going to the lifter that could be clogged. I have terrible lifter ticking all the time. Have replaced all lifters and still the ticking. Is worse when it's very cold out (michigan) but yet after an hour of driving it's still ticking very loud. Every mechanic that has check it out (2004 dakota 4.7) has said it's lifters ticking. What do you think??
Yes, there is an oil galley. It is possible that they are clogged. One way to check is to remove the lifters (lash adjusters) and plug the spark plugs. Rotate the engine over with the starter until you that oil is coming out of all the lifter bosses. This will force any blockage out.
Do the new lifters need to be soaked in oil or pumped up? Getting ready to start on my valve seals and went ahead and ordered lifters.
yes, I would soak them in motor oil or even Marvel Mystery oil
@@martinbuilt thanks for responding so quick. 👍👍
Hi Martin, Do you need to bleed the new lifters before installing them? Will it damage the valves if I don't? Thanks
I would recommend to soak them in motor oil for a few hours before installing them.
Would you know if the lifter are interchangeable between the 3.7 and 4.7
I have a bit of confusion:
Prime, dont prime. Soak, dont soak. Im confused. Ive seen both online. Do I need to soak and prime the lifters, or did you put new ones in out of the box? Could really use your assistance on this, as this is the first time Ive done a job like this.
I would recommend soaking them in motor oil for at least a day to work out any air. This will also reduce any rocker arm from coming out on the initial start-up.
Thank you for watching.
What a good video. So is there any adjustments required for doing a swap out, or is this just a straight replacement. I would have no idea how to set things if that’s required. I’d have to do a whole bunch more research on how to do that. lol. 2007 Jeep Liberty with the 3.7.
Simply remove and replace, no adjustment required. I would soak the new lifters in motor oil for a few hours before installing. Thank you!
Does anything clearance wise have to be remeasured or adjusted or does everything pretty much stay the same since most parts are staying in
the hydraulic lifter (lash adjusters) are self adjusting, so just remove and replace.
martinbuilt Ohhhh thanks for responding so fast! I’m doing this tomorrow so this is helpful to know.
I heard someone say the orientation of the lifters matters with the oil hole facing in was important. I'm guessing not? Great videos as usual.
Thank you, no it does not matter the orientation of the lifter.
@@martinbuilt thank you so much for your help.
Excellent simple video. Thank You.
You're very welcome I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
excelente amigo. muchas gracias por tu trabajo y por enseñarnos. saludos desde venezuela
Awesome Video....Very detailed and great knowledge
Thank you, I appreciate that.
I could really use some help. I just put new lifters and rocker arms in my 4.7. When I started it, it started perfectly fine, but it had a little bit of a rough idle. No noise no ticking, but it sounds like one cylinder might be dead? I am getting rough fuel out of my exhaust. I’m wondering if I might have screwed up a wire to one of my spark plugs, causing that cylinder to not fire? But I hope I didn’t ruin something in the valve train.
Did you soak the new lifters in oil to remove the air prior to installing them the reason I asked I'm kind of curious if one of the rocker arms didn't come off on the initial startup.
I did, and I started working on it again this morning, and all is good. One of my injector wires had been rubbed past insulation and was grounding out. It caused one of the injectors to stay open while running, and filled my exhaust with raw gas, which smoked pretty bad. Thank you for getting back to me as soon as you did! I watched your videos over and over before I started this project and it made all the difference. Thank you!
Hi Martin, do you need all the items you listed in your description? I see that you have 3 different gasket sets listed, just curious (I am new to working on engines). Also, do I need to get that single seal power valve lifter or can I just get the set of the lifters?
I may list several different valve cover gaskets because they changed From magnesium to plastic. You can get whichever brand lifter you like, Thanks for watching.
You just saved me a few 100 bucks thanks
That's what I'm here for. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
I followed your video of putting the rocker arm back on and it seems to lightly snap on. You have to use a screwdriver to pop it off. I changed the lifter too. It doesn't snap back on like your video...I've been at it all day. It's cylinder 8..the very last rocker arm.
Now I can do my 3.7 in my jeep grand cherokee laredo thank you so much
you are welcome.
Question. Should the lifters be able to compress by hand? I have some that don't compress by hand and I also have some that have play? What should I be looking for?
I like the ones that you are unable to compress.
@@martinbuilt 👍👍
Did you have to do any adjustments (lash) when you changes out the lifters and rockers? I’m getting ready to install all new lifters on my 08 Durango. Please get back to me. Thanks
No need to do any adjustments the lash adjusters are self adjusting I would just suggest soaking them in clean motor oil for at least several hours Or longer before installing them.
Thanks a lot. I’ve been soaking them for a few days now. Gonna do the replacements this weekend. Your jeep is bad ass man!
????? Another quick question. I I have a 08- 4.7. Will it have the upgraded no hole rockers already? I have never opened the valve covers since I’ve owned it. No leaks!👍
@@kraken8159 Thank you, yes all 4.7 from 2005-2013 have the upgraded rocker arms.
Well. I failed at trying to get the passenger valve cover off to change the lifters! Very frustrated. I have no clearance in the engine bay to get the cover to clear over the cam and the journals. The only way I think I could do it? I’d drop the motor. Don’t have the tools to do that. I’ll probably just take it to a garage to get them replaced. Thanks for all the help though.👍
Hi martin , thanks for your videos. Would a new set of melling lifters be a reliable replacement to the factory lifters?
Yes, I would think that would be a good Factory replacement.
Hi Martin, is there a way to test the hydraulic lifter if it is bad by moving the tip up and down? Most of my lifters have tips that can move up and down by hand, but two are solid. A tow truck driver told me the ones that move are bad, but idk which ones are causing the tapping at start-up.
Yes, when I swapped out my camshafts all the lifters had no movement and I did not have any lifter noise whatsoever. I would say he is correct if they easily move up and down where you can plunge the tip those are most likely bad
Hey Martin I’ve got the same 4.7 in my jeep. Would you buy the rocker arms brand new or would a set from a junkyard work just fine?
I personally think the ones from the junkyard are just fine. That's all I have ever used. Just inspect them before buying.
@@martinbuilt Awesome thanks for the tip! would you say the same for lifters? I bought some "budget" ones on Amazon and even though they had overall great reviews, half of them arrived with a little bit of play.
@@Trevbro1991 once the lifters are soaked in motor oil for a couple of days they should firm up.
about todo this on my 13 ram 1500, is there any lifters brands that are better than others?
If I have to turn the 21socket on the crank bolt to remove the
Rocker, do it throw the time off
No it will not change the timing all your timing chains and sprockets are still connected.
Just make sure you're turning the engine clockwise when you're facing the engine.
Hello, back to you for help. As I have commented before on this video, replaced timing components and lash adjusters and I still get the dreaded ticking for a few minutes on cold start. I have a monitor and I recently noticed my oil pressure was stuck, not fluctuating at all. I ended up replacing the pressure sensor and it shows the same thing. This is on a Dodge Ram, these sensors are supposed to give somewhat of an accurate reading correct? I am now thinking I have a blockage in the sensor area limiting oil to the lifters when cold. Common area for sludge to stick? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
I would remove the sensor and temporarily install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify the oil pressure. You also use Marvel's Mystery Oil to help clean the engine. Use 5w30 motor oil.
Thanks for the quick reply. I was running marvels until I noticed it thinned the oil to the point the clacking was more frequent, happening even after letting the truck sit for an hour. I will try reading pressure manually. If that doesn’t show I’m going to try pulling the sensor on the next oil change and cleaning in there with something. I also notice there is a plug to the right of the sensor. Any idea what it’s there for and what size the hex is?
@@ReedBoles The plug closest to the sender lends to the sender and the main oil galley the other goes to the oil pump. They are 3/8 in diameter.
Great video, at my former shop(I was promoted to manager/tech at another shop in company) we replaced 4.7 that had bad valve springs, you could hear cylinder pushing back into intake. So we have new/used low mile LKQ engine and it's tapping. My money IS sticky or collapsed lifter, runs too good other wise. Bad thing is it's number 8 that's misfiring.
Haha number eight always the hardest to get to. Under the heater core hoses and the coolant reservoir
Excellent & Helpful Video Tutorial !! Thanks a Lot Amigo !!
Glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Hey man!!! You are a great reata-parada!!!! (reata-parada in Mexican Spanish means almost a genius)
Thank you. ALMOST A GENIUS!
I've been a self-proclaimed claimed genius for years.. lol 🤣😂
Thank you for this video.
I'm glad you found it helpful.
Are you supposed to fill the lifters before installing or just prime the engine
Yes soak the new lifters in motor oil for at least several hours. I usually do it for several days before installing.
I am going to tackle valve stem seals on 2006 Jeep commander 4.7 . 145k miles almost. Should I do the lifters right away and if so , any recommendations for brand of lifters and stem seals. Any other pointers ?
if you don't have any lifter tick I would leave them a lone. If you do have lifter noise you could try either of these two products before replacing the lifters.
Rislone Engine Treatment Conditioner and Cleaner amzn.to/3mSUduP
Marvel Mystery Oil amzn.to/3oQCbeF
as far the the lifter brand I would check out the reviews on the lifters.
@@martinbuilt I appreciate you response. There’s no lifter ticks that I’m hearing. I was just concerned about the lifters after I heard it’s a common issue of the 4.7. I will take your advice and leave the lifters be but I will do the valve stem seals because of the cloud on startup and oil consumption . How do you feel about feld pro brand valve stem seals?
@@lostrhino73 I like the Fel-Pro seals that is what I used on my 4.7
@@martinbuilt Then I will go with those.. THANK YOU !!!
Why this video have dislike .this video was great
Thank you, I'm glad you and so many others have found it helpful.
I need to replace mine. What do you think about the lifters sold on Amazon? Thanks
I would check the reviews on those lifters and make sure you soak them in motor oil for several hours before installation.
@@martinbuilt Thank you for your response.
Is there any risk of interference between the valves and pistons when you are popping off the rockers?
No, there is not you're going to want to pop the rockers off when the bass circle is at the bottom or the cam lobe is pointing upward.
I believe this engine has lifters that have oil holes that need to be aligned when installing them into the heads. Dont forget to check just to make sure
They do have holes in them but they do not need to be aligned.
2008 jeep Liberty 3.7 puting in timing chain got at tdc drivers cam went on pretty easily passenger side seems like it's fair amount of from where it should be. any ideas of what I am doing wrong
Great video. Excellent best practices.
I'm glad you liked it.😊👍
Where did you get the solid lifters from and what's the benefit of going from hydraulic to solid?
The main reason to run this product is pure and simple... Horsepower. A solid lifter valvetrain is more consistent, opens to a greater extent, and closes faster than a hydraulic setup. This translates into better control of the valvetrain, as well as more duration spent at higher flow valve lifts. In essence, more high rpm power is found by eliminating the physical "collapse" (and resulting power loss) experienced by hydraulic lifters at certain rpm thresholds and valve spring pressure levels. airram.com/product.php?categoryid=19&productid=1416
If you order a set let Nick know that I set you.
I have a 2006 jeep commander and can't get to the back of engine to get the lifters or anything off, including taking the head off? Recommendations??
Just subscribed. But I'm the kind of guy who never did much besides changing tires and oil, so I wish your video started from the beginning, taking whatever off to expose the lifters in the first place.
Step by step, is best for us newbes.
Also, you say the Rocker lobe should be upward but don't tell us how to get it that way, will it move by hand? Do we have to roll the car to make it move? (I'm watching on a small phone screen) are you moving it by applying pressure with a pry-screw driver?
thanks for subscribing....here this video should help. ua-cam.com/video/URrQ9sMgLJs/v-deo.html
+martinbuilt
thanks
if a Dodge engine tosses a rocker arm, you need to change the VALVE SPRING, in addition to the lifter- not just the lifter. the clearance comes from the spring being weak, not following the cam profile tightly and clearance opening up. if you put spacers under the lifter, you will only collapse the spring more and more, and eventually break the spring. change the lifter and spring, it will run fine and not lose rockers.
I just did a lifter replacement on a 2007 Liberty 3.7. Only did one side that was noisy. All went well, but engine has a slight vibration now at idle. Not sure why, but it’s not missing or anything. Is it bad to only do one side? Or should I be doing the other side anyway.
it's okay to do just one side but I don't know why it would have a vibration at idle unless one of the rockers had popped off.
@@martinbuilt I don’t think so? It is a very slight vibration when in park. Almost not noticeable, but we mechanics hear the slightest things sometimes. The valve train side I worked on is totally silent so I don’t think anything had come loose or popped off. I’d for sure hear that. Will keep an eye on it but daughter says it’s running totally fine. Probably do the other side this week once more lifters come in. Thanks for your video, it was super helpful. Thank god guys like you take the time to make these things for us!!!!
@@jaybilawchuk2225
Yeah, most likely nothing wrong.
Hey Martin, I went to the air ram website looking for the adjustable fulcrums that you have in your 4.7. but they do not list ant parts at all. so maybe they are going under??? any idea who actually made them? personally, i like EVERYTHING to be manually adjustable. also, i have a 3.7 in my Jeep Liberty. have you ever found ANY hi performance parts for that engine?
Here you go airram.com/product.php?categoryid=19&productid=1416
@@martinbuilt THANK YOU ! ! !