Hi Matt, With the top arm dropped 30mm, it does wonders for the angle on the ball joint, but with a driveshaft in place…. Is there clearance to the top pin? You’re laid out at ride height, but with a bit of suspension ‘bounce’ that must be quite a close clash…. Maybe the camera lies, but looks close. Nice thing-Ummy-bob top pin solution…. You’re a class act. Cheers Rob
@@RobBentham-y8k hey rob, there would just be enough clearance if the shaft ran straight but luckily my shafts run down at a angle to meet the diff, this isn’t the best for shaft angle but it’s the only way to squeeze the diff in. It’s how the blue one runs
Once again you have proved that necessity is the mother of invention. Just a thought but if shaft is solid on top wishbone how will you lubricate it???
@@JOhn-qz2vi there is a grease nipple in the center of the arm underneath that I removed so I don’t damage it. The center of the arms is slightly a bigger bore then the 3/4 top arm pivot so slows grease to push outwards. I guess I should have mentioned that so I will do in the next video, thanks for pointing it out mate 🙏🏻
@@matthoward923 I agree mate, simple is normally the best way and as it’s made in house I can modify or refine on final build up to get the correct preload
You put the front rose joint mount on the 15 degree angle to keep it happy. Why didn’t you mount the rose joint up and down like you mounted the back one? Love your work mate 👍🏼 ps what’s for dinner? 😅
@@1959cadillacdan mainly as I already had the brackets to mount to the tube in this orientation, also this way slows the joint more movement then being refined to the 38mm tube side ones tabs are welded on to the tube in the vertical plain. 👍🏻
Once again great work and great explanation
@@gafrers glad you followed along mate 👍🏻
Hi Matt, With the top arm dropped 30mm, it does wonders for the angle on the ball joint, but with a driveshaft in place…. Is there clearance to the top pin? You’re laid out at ride height, but with a bit of suspension ‘bounce’ that must be quite a close clash…. Maybe the camera lies, but looks close. Nice thing-Ummy-bob top pin solution…. You’re a class act. Cheers Rob
@@RobBentham-y8k hey rob, there would just be enough clearance if the shaft ran straight but luckily my shafts run down at a angle to meet the diff, this isn’t the best for shaft angle but it’s the only way to squeeze the diff in. It’s how the blue one runs
Hi Matt, fantastic.
@@PAOS0160 thanks buddy.
Once again you have proved that necessity is the mother of invention. Just a thought but if shaft is solid on top wishbone how will you lubricate it???
@@JOhn-qz2vi there is a grease nipple in the center of the arm underneath that I removed so I don’t damage it. The center of the arms is slightly a bigger bore then the 3/4 top arm pivot so slows grease to push outwards. I guess I should have mentioned that so I will do in the next video, thanks for pointing it out mate 🙏🏻
So complex, but so simple
@@matthoward923 I agree mate, simple is normally the best way and as it’s made in house I can modify or refine on final build up to get the correct preload
You put the front rose joint mount on the 15 degree angle to keep it happy. Why didn’t you mount the rose joint up and down like you mounted the back one?
Love your work mate 👍🏼 ps what’s for dinner? 😅
@@1959cadillacdan mainly as I already had the brackets to mount to the tube in this orientation, also this way slows the joint more movement then being refined to the 38mm tube side ones tabs are welded on to the tube in the vertical plain. 👍🏻