Hi Tony, I note that you’ve put the strap around the base of the rubber boot once only. I’ve looked at 3 of these boots and in each case the strap was wrapped around the base twice and then clamped. Which is correct ? Which way was it when you dismantled it first time, please ?
I knew it was put together wrong in the video. Was it taken apart by someone else and they put it on wrong? Could be. I’ll never know because the manual doesn’t care about the clamp either. All you care about is that it doesn’t leak. The strapping comes long because it’s used for other things. Doubling it won’t do much good or bad so choose one. The strap is held with a special clamp. That’s where you need to make sure you have a couple of turns on the clamp itself. Then on the clamp you lock it down. Personally I do not like this setup. The ONLY reason I am using this strap and clamp is because it was built this way. I would much rather use a regular clamp and a socket to tighten. That would be my modification.
Wow Mr Tony graet content! I've just moved my W124 3.0L 1988 from garage after 12 years and I have a problems :( We have a presure of gasoline before the distributor but there is none after. Do you knoe if there should be a 12V after ignition on this plug attached to distributor??
Fuel is pressurized by the fuel pumps. The fuel regulator determines how much fuel is deliver based on pressures. If that is working properly and you have constant fuel to the distributor, then something is likely wrong with the distributor. You need a Bosch fuel injection pressure gauge to diagnose the KE-Jetronics properly. All are simple tests, but you need the right tools. The biggest problem with these cars is the fuel delivery system. Most problems are because of dirty fuel and ethanol. I think the going rate to have your fuel distributor rebuilt and calibrated is about $1,000. These are not cheap vehicles to maintain.
@@TonyLiveTV I've changed both pumps and filter, and we've started the engine finally but there was a problem on one of cylinders (it worked probably only on 5 intead of 6) so probably i need to check injectors too. The next day it was impossible to start it again, ,and as I've mentioned You before we have checked the presure before distrubotor and it looked okey, but on the end of injector cords almost nothing. So is that electric plug on distributor a fuel regulator?? Or you mean the one near pumps??
@@michalkarol2959 I guess you are talking about the EHA valve. The regulator is mechanical and shiny metal (looks like a filter) and is attached to the same bracket that your incoming fuel line is attached to. You can try disconnecting the EHA and try starting. You can also test the EHA. The KE-Jetronics is simple, but complicated. It is simple for what it does, but it is very complicated on how it does it. To properly diagnose these systems you need a Bosch CIS test kit. You need to test both sides of the distributor to make sure the pressures are within specifications. These pressures are controlled by a diaphragm on the top of the distributor. I tested my fuel lines, filters and the injectors prior to installing so for me I know I have fuel flowing from the pumps to the distributor. Once at the distributor and ready to start like you are now, you kind of need a Bosch CIS test kit. This is the test kit I own: amzn.to/3xDHKpX
The Bosch rebuild instructions say it is safe to use brake clean and mineral spirits. I used mineral spirits only (flushed with mineral spirits at the end). I know some mechanics like to use kerosene. As long as you don’t damage the diaphragm you should be fine with any petroleum based cleaner (sea foam, petro, lacquer thinner and so on).
Hi how are you? brother my fuel regular was leaking from back side I blocked it with the glue suddenly black smoke coming from exhaust than the car stop When I open the spark plug too much carbon on them Please suggest me now how to start it again Let me know Thank
Of course I cleaned the body. I first cleaned the fuel distributor in a previous video (Renewing The Air Flow Sensor). I even said how I cleaned it. I did not however clean it with the ultrasonic and I show why I decided not to. If I had disassembled the fuel distributor I would have placed it in the ultrasonic just like the Bosch instructions said. But instead I did what the Bosch instructions ALSO say you can do and that is to clean it with brake clean and mineral spirits which I did. I also went a step further and soaked it in lacquer thinner to make sure the old fuel was gone. In addition to that I used a soft nylon brush to clean the plunger's chamber (like I said in the video) as best as I could. Will it work? We won't know until I try and start it. For now I did follow the Mercedes manual for the procedure they call "renewing sealing ring for control piston". The instructions don't even talk about cleaning the fuel distributor. This document simply says to measure, replace the seal and set the gap.
Gracias x compartirlo
Hi Tony, I note that you’ve put the strap around the base of the rubber boot once only. I’ve looked at 3 of these boots and in each case the strap was wrapped around the base twice and then clamped. Which is correct ? Which way was it when you dismantled it first time, please ?
I knew it was put together wrong in the video. Was it taken apart by someone else and they put it on wrong? Could be. I’ll never know because the manual doesn’t care about the clamp either. All you care about is that it doesn’t leak. The strapping comes long because it’s used for other things. Doubling it won’t do much good or bad so choose one. The strap is held with a special clamp. That’s where you need to make sure you have a couple of turns on the clamp itself. Then on the clamp you lock it down. Personally I do not like this setup. The ONLY reason I am using this strap and clamp is because it was built this way. I would much rather use a regular clamp and a socket to tighten. That would be my modification.
Fully agree.
Wow Mr Tony graet content! I've just moved my W124 3.0L 1988 from garage after 12 years and I have a problems :(
We have a presure of gasoline before the distributor but there is none after. Do you knoe if there should be a 12V after ignition on this plug attached to distributor??
Fuel is pressurized by the fuel pumps. The fuel regulator determines how much fuel is deliver based on pressures. If that is working properly and you have constant fuel to the distributor, then something is likely wrong with the distributor. You need a Bosch fuel injection pressure gauge to diagnose the KE-Jetronics properly. All are simple tests, but you need the right tools. The biggest problem with these cars is the fuel delivery system. Most problems are because of dirty fuel and ethanol. I think the going rate to have your fuel distributor rebuilt and calibrated is about $1,000. These are not cheap vehicles to maintain.
@@TonyLiveTV I've changed both pumps and filter, and we've started the engine finally but there was a problem on one of cylinders (it worked probably only on 5 intead of 6) so probably i need to check injectors too. The next day it was impossible to start it again, ,and as I've mentioned You before we have checked the presure before distrubotor and it looked okey, but on the end of injector cords almost nothing. So is that electric plug on distributor a fuel regulator?? Or you mean the one near pumps??
@@michalkarol2959 I guess you are talking about the EHA valve. The regulator is mechanical and shiny metal (looks like a filter) and is attached to the same bracket that your incoming fuel line is attached to. You can try disconnecting the EHA and try starting. You can also test the EHA. The KE-Jetronics is simple, but complicated. It is simple for what it does, but it is very complicated on how it does it. To properly diagnose these systems you need a Bosch CIS test kit. You need to test both sides of the distributor to make sure the pressures are within specifications. These pressures are controlled by a diaphragm on the top of the distributor. I tested my fuel lines, filters and the injectors prior to installing so for me I know I have fuel flowing from the pumps to the distributor. Once at the distributor and ready to start like you are now, you kind of need a Bosch CIS test kit. This is the test kit I own: amzn.to/3xDHKpX
@@TonyLiveTV thank you very much
I had a mechanic who rebuilds these for a living tell me never to put any other fluid or detergent into the fuel distributor. What did you find?
The Bosch rebuild instructions say it is safe to use brake clean and mineral spirits. I used mineral spirits only (flushed with mineral spirits at the end). I know some mechanics like to use kerosene. As long as you don’t damage the diaphragm you should be fine with any petroleum based cleaner (sea foam, petro, lacquer thinner and so on).
Hi how are you? brother my fuel regular was leaking from back side I blocked it with the glue suddenly black smoke coming from exhaust than the car stop
When I open the spark plug too much carbon on them
Please suggest me now how to start it again
Let me know
Thank
you clean the plunger but not the body where is inserted place the whole body in the ultrasonic cleaner and dry with air
Of course I cleaned the body. I first cleaned the fuel distributor in a previous video (Renewing The Air Flow Sensor). I even said how I cleaned it. I did not however clean it with the ultrasonic and I show why I decided not to. If I had disassembled the fuel distributor I would have placed it in the ultrasonic just like the Bosch instructions said. But instead I did what the Bosch instructions ALSO say you can do and that is to clean it with brake clean and mineral spirits which I did. I also went a step further and soaked it in lacquer thinner to make sure the old fuel was gone. In addition to that I used a soft nylon brush to clean the plunger's chamber (like I said in the video) as best as I could. Will it work? We won't know until I try and start it. For now I did follow the Mercedes manual for the procedure they call "renewing sealing ring for control piston". The instructions don't even talk about cleaning the fuel distributor. This document simply says to measure, replace the seal and set the gap.