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1987 Mercedes 560SL Engine Post-Break-In: Spark Plugs & Oil Filter Revealed!
After years of hard work restoring my 1987 Mercedes-Benz 560SL, the post-break-in inspection is finally here! In this video, I dive into the oil filter and spark plugs to uncover what the initial break-in reveal about my rebuilt M117 engine. This is a must-watch for classic car enthusiasts and DIY mechanics.
🎥 Follow the full restoration journey: www.youtube.com/@TonyLiveTV
🔧 Special thanks to CIS Flowtech and all the supporters of this project!
If you're restoring or maintaining a classic Mercedes, drop a comment below with your experiences. Let’s keep these iconic cars alive!
Why I Chose Shell ROTELLA T4 15W-40 for Break-In
Shell ROTELLA T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 isn’t marketed as a "break-in" oil, but that doesn’t mean it lacks the right chemistry. Its zinc content (ZDDP) of 1,200 ppm makes it ideal for the break-in of flat tappet engines like the Mercedes-Benz M117. This additive is crucial for reducing wear during initial operation and ensuring a proper mating of engine components. I first learned about ROTELLA from a master Mercedes-Benz engine builder who has rebuilt thousands of these engines. ROTELLA is his go-to for break-in oil, and his experience speaks volumes about its effectiveness.
For those who want more data, lubrication experts at Total Seal Piston Rings tested 26 different oils-including oils labeled as "break-in" oils. ROTELLA performed just as well as the specialized options, proving that you don’t always need a product with a “break-in” label to achieve the same results. In fact, none of the oils in their testing were flawless, but ROTELLA held its own among the best.
For more details, you can check out their report here:
www.speediagnostix.com/total-seal
Переглядів: 799

Відео

The Ultimate Engine Break-In: My Rebuilt 1987 560SL Lives Again!
Переглядів 612Місяць тому
In this video on TonyLiveTV, I walk you through the break-in procedure of my freshly rebuilt 1987 Mercedes-Benz 560SL engine. This classic car has come a long way since I started this restoration journey, and today marks a major milestone-the engine’s first full break-in after 16 years of silence. Watch as I take you step-by-step through the process, from startup to running the engine at 2,000-...
First Start in 16 Years! My Fully Rebuilt 1987 560SL Engine Comes to Life 🚗✨
Переглядів 937Місяць тому
Today is the moment I’ve been working toward for three years! It all started on November 7, 2021, with my first UA-cam video, where I began documenting the restoration of my 1987 560SL. Back then, I thought I’d just be replacing a rear seal and tackling the transmission, but that “quick fix” turned into a complete engine rebuild. After 16 years of silence, this engine is finally ready to roar b...
560SL - No Spark Solved! Diagnose & Fix Ignition Issues Like a Pro
Переглядів 618Місяць тому
🚗🔧 In today’s video, I dive deep into the no-spark issue on my 560SL, troubleshooting every component from the ignition coil to the crankshaft position sensor. Watch as I uncover the root cause step-by-step-no guesswork, just methodical testing. Whether it’s the EZL, coil, wiring, or CPS, I'll show you how to test each part without unnecessary replacements. All you need is a multimeter, a 12V p...
560SL - Fuel Pump Relay, Overload Protection Relay (OVP) & Idle Speed Control (ICU)
Переглядів 492Місяць тому
🚗🔧In this video, I dive into three critical components of the 560SL: the Overvoltage Protection Relay (OVP), the Idle Speed/Control Unit (ICU), and the Fuel Pump Relay. I’ll be covering the most common symptoms for failure of each, along with how I would diagnose each component using only a multimeter and a 12V power supply. Help Support TonyLiveTV If you enjoy my content and want to help suppo...
560SL - Installing Rebuilt KE-Jetronics Fuel Distributor from CIS Flowtech, LLC.
Переглядів 7112 місяці тому
🚗🔧In today’s video, I install the newly rebuilt KE-Jetronics fuel distributor on my 1987 560SL R107, which I had sent to CIS Flowtech, LLC for a complete refurbishment. After testing it for leaks, I attempt to start the engine for the first time in 16 years-but this time, I hit an electrical snag. Will the car finally roar to life, or is there another challenge ahead? Tune in to see the next ch...
560SL - Reviewing Rebuilt KE-Jetronics Fuel Distributor from CIS Flowtech, LLC
Переглядів 5652 місяці тому
🚗🔧In today’s video, I unbox the freshly rebuilt KE-Jetronics fuel distributor for my R107, which I had sent to CIS Flowtech, LLC for refurbishment. I’ll walk you through the process of measuring the depth of the control piston nut and comparing those measurements to what I recorded before the rebuild. Stick around until the end, where I’ll share my overall thoughts, including the pros and cons ...
A One-Way Ticket to Paradise?
Переглядів 1343 місяці тому
Big news, everyone! The fuel distributor for my 1987 560SL won’t arrive until October, but that won’t stop the action on TonyLiveTV! 🌍 Instead of waiting around, I’m taking you on an unforgettable adventure to a paradise far, far away from Arizona. Are you ready for a little fun? Let’s play a game-I'll reveal all the details in my next video. Stay tuned!
560SL - Preventing Air Lock - Stop Overheating!
Переглядів 2,3 тис.4 місяці тому
In this video, I tackle the common issue of airlock in the cooling system of the R107. Prevent airlock and stop your engine from overheating with these simple tips and techniques. Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and hit the bell for more on TonyLiveTV! This is the Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit that I purchased on Amazon. It worked great and it was under $20! I have used it on...
560SL - CIS Fuel Distributor Plugged!
Переглядів 6954 місяці тому
In this video, I send off the fuel distributor to CIS Flowtech, LLC for a complete overhaul and EHA calibration. This will give me a break from the hot garage. I will see you in a few weeks. Thank you all for supporting my UA-cam channel. I enjoy making these videos because of you. cisflowtech.com/ I will do a full follow up when the distributor is returned. I will measure everything so everyon...
560SL - My Mercedes Will Not Start!
Переглядів 2,5 тис.5 місяців тому
In this video, I diagnose why the engine will not run. I will share with you what methods I used to diagnose a no start situation of your Mercedes KE-Jectronics. Here is my PayPal if you would like to help support my channel: www.paypal.me/TonyLive Here are links to the other videos I mention for adjusting the KE-Jetronics sensor plate. Mercedes Classics with Pierre Hedary: ua-cam.com/video/jAh...
27% Incorrect Diagnosis - My Recent Health Scare
Переглядів 4375 місяців тому
"Consequence of the physical examination inadequacy included missed or delayed diagnosis in 76% of cases": www.amjmed.com/article/S0002-9343(15)00549-5/fulltext www.amjmed.com/action/showPdf?pii=S0002-9343(15)00549-5 Results Of the 208 reported vignettes that met inclusion criteria, the oversight was caused by a failure to perform the physical examination in 63%; 14% reported that the correct p...
560SL - R107 Testing and Rebuilding the Fuel Pump Assembly
Переглядів 1,8 тис.6 місяців тому
Exciting 1987 560SL Update! 🚗🔧 Join me in this latest video as I dive into testing and rebuilding the fuel pump assembly of my classic 1987 560SL. But that’s not all! 🎥 I’m thrilled to announce that I’ll be going LIVE to attempt starting this beauty for the first time since 2008. LIVE Start Attempt Details: 📅 Date: Jun 8, 2024 🕒 Time: 9:00 a.m. (Arizona is -7 GMT) Mark your calendars and be par...
560SL - R107 Fuel Tank Filler Neck Seal Replacement
Переглядів 3646 місяців тому
In this video, I remove and install the fuel tank filler neck seal. Don't forget that I will be starting this car for the first time since 2008 LIVE on UA-cam. Make sure to subscribe to my UA-cam channel and hit the notification bell 🔔 to be notified! 🏎️ Here is my PayPal if you would like to help support my channel: www.paypal.me/TonyLive I am documenting every part of the 560SL restoration bu...
560SL - Fuel Tank Removal and Strainer Replacement
Переглядів 1,7 тис.6 місяців тому
560SL - Fuel Tank Removal and Strainer Replacement
560SL - I Have Bad News!
Переглядів 6966 місяців тому
560SL - I Have Bad News!
560SL - Installing the Radiator, Fan and Coolant Hoses
Переглядів 5157 місяців тому
560SL - Installing the Radiator, Fan and Coolant Hoses
560SL - Installing the Exhaust and Heat Shields
Переглядів 3977 місяців тому
560SL - Installing the Exhaust and Heat Shields
560SL - Torquing the R107 Front Crankshaft Bolt
Переглядів 3977 місяців тому
560SL - Torquing the R107 Front Crankshaft Bolt
560SL - Replacing and Tensioning V-Belts
Переглядів 6327 місяців тому
560SL - Replacing and Tensioning V-Belts
560SL - A/C Condenser Removal, Flush, Clean, and Re-Install
Переглядів 6227 місяців тому
560SL - A/C Condenser Removal, Flush, Clean, and Re-Install
560SL - Auxiliary Fan Test and Replacement
Переглядів 6387 місяців тому
560SL - Auxiliary Fan Test and Replacement
560SL - Bleeding Power Steering Pump & Gearbox
Переглядів 4918 місяців тому
560SL - Bleeding Power Steering Pump & Gearbox
560SL - Engine Longitudinal Control Shaft
Переглядів 2748 місяців тому
560SL - Engine Longitudinal Control Shaft
560SL - Connecting Engine Vacuum Lines
Переглядів 9878 місяців тому
560SL - Connecting Engine Vacuum Lines
560SL - Transmission Install, Propeller Shaft, Flex Disc, Linkage & More
Переглядів 5868 місяців тому
560SL - Transmission Install, Propeller Shaft, Flex Disc, Linkage & More
560SL - Connecting The Engine's Wiring Harness
Переглядів 4498 місяців тому
560SL - Connecting The Engine's Wiring Harness
560SL - Install Engine Shock Absorbers and Front Engine Mounts
Переглядів 9149 місяців тому
560SL - Install Engine Shock Absorbers and Front Engine Mounts
560SL - Installing the Engine & Transmission: Using an Engine Hoist for Precision Placement
Переглядів 7759 місяців тому
560SL - Installing the Engine & Transmission: Using an Engine Hoist for Precision Placement
560SL - R107 Kickdown Solenoid & Speedometer Pickup
Переглядів 5569 місяців тому
560SL - R107 Kickdown Solenoid & Speedometer Pickup

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @jesseduke694
    @jesseduke694 2 дні тому

    Why are you measuring in mm? I guess I'll do the math. For those that want to know what his measurements are take his numbers & devide them by 25.4. It will give you it in inches. His margin at 1.5mm ÷ 25.4=.059

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 2 дні тому

      @@jesseduke694 thanks for your question. It’s simple really. It’s because this is a German vehicle with a German manual that does not provide conversions. I am working with reference numbers provided by the manual. I would also be shamed by the R107 community for converting. Why convert when the manual tells you exactly what you want? Make one mistake in a conversion and it can be very costly on these vehicles. If I were working on a Ford or Chevy I would be telling my viewers what’s in the manual and I won’t be converting it mm.

    • @jesseduke694
      @jesseduke694 2 дні тому

      @TonyLiveTV I gathered that after watching for a bit.

  • @foots69
    @foots69 11 днів тому

    Looks like CIS Flowtech did you right!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 11 днів тому

      @@foots69 yes they did. Thanks for the comment. I knew the scratches they caused wouldn’t be an issue, but they could have been more careful during the rebuild. I’ll be testing fuel pressures at some point.

  • @rickharms3680
    @rickharms3680 11 днів тому

    Great assessment of gasket/debris removal options. Thanks!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 11 днів тому

      @@rickharms3680 thank you Rick. I appreciate your comment. I enjoyed making this video. Have you seen my video comparing Heli-Coil & Time-Sert? NASA uses Heli-Coil and for good reason I think.

  • @Lagos3sgte
    @Lagos3sgte 12 днів тому

    Great video. I think what you are showing here is that while the Roloc disc works great for cleaning up a surface, it does alter the surface roughness of the material while the scotchbrite pads do not. 3m should only be used for head mating surfaces because you are trying to seal very high combustion and coolant pressures. For other surfaces like exhausts, you would probably be fine with the roloc as the gasket would make up for any small imperfections and there is very little pressure to seal.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 12 днів тому

      @@Lagos3sgte thank you for the comment. I agree. I think the Roloc would be fine on anything except aluminum surfaces (specially mating surfaces) like I have here. It’s also a disc used on a drill so keeping it flat is a concern for me. Power tools is probably not a good option in this case.

  • @ronalddean3630
    @ronalddean3630 12 днів тому

    Hi Tony, congrats! It looks so good and sounds wonderful. I appreciate you sharing your journey. This has given me an incredible view of how these engines function and now I will be able to visualize it while driving. I have been reading up on the the sensor plate, fuel mixture, idle speed, and the accumulator. Currently, I am experiencing the "surging effect" about 15 min out of a flawless cold start. The hot start presents problems. So far, from what I have read and seen, everything points to the accumulator. The fuel pump seems fine. My transmission cooler lines are seized to the radiator. Now I have an idea what it looks like behind there, and I am getting the "CLUNK" sound and jerking movement when shifting from D into R. The transmission needs a service, but someone mentioned that it could be a vacuum leak in the transmission, and the service won't address this. I also noticed that you have the chrome fender trim. I would advise removing them and inspecting if you want to keep them. They can be dangerous because they promote rust underneath, and I speak from experience. What is the next step for your car? When do we get to see it drive?

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 12 днів тому

      @@ronalddean3630 hi Ronald. Thanks for the comment. For the surging issue I would get a CIS fuel pressure test kit and check pressures before throwing more money at it. These vehicles will eat all the money you throw at them. This is the test kit I have: amzn.to/4fg20hr There are so many things that can cause this. Even a dirty fuel tank strainer can cause this. Testing pressures will help show you what’s going on with fuel delivery. Testing for vacuum leaks is fairly simple. If the transmission is clunking it’s not a good sign, but it’s probably not the transmission. I am going to guess it’s a flex plate or the transmission mount. If you said the transmission ‘slams’ into reverse or drive then I would say it’s an adjustment, but you said clunking noise. Take a propane torch and heat those trans lines. There is no rubber or anything to damage. The heat will make it easy to remove. As far as the chrome fender skirts on my 560SL. I concur they should be removed and I would if it were not for one reason. When my 560SL was ordered from the dealer, the owner added these to the build sheet before delivery. Also note that these fender skirts are polished stainless (not chrome) and properly installed. The dealer sprayed primer in all rivet holes from under as well. The skirts are on the sticker (dealer add on) and I am trying to bring it back to how it was delivered. The classic shop sent me the window sticker when I first purchased it at auction. I do have all the original wheels including the original spare tire. The owner also special ordered the soft top. Instead of the regular black top you see on most all R107’s, this guy ordered dark brown. This makes the combo of Signal Red with Palomino leather interior and a dark brown soft top to be fairly rare with only a few hundred produced. The rear seat is aftermarket I installed. It’s the same as what original with seat belts. I still have the carpet so it can be removed easily. What’s next? All kinds of projects I have yet to do. I’ll be testing fuel pressures for sure. The first drive and 500 mile oil change is exciting. I need to put the bonnet/hood back on. I need a new soft top and I also what to dive deep into diagnostics. Currently the brakes do nothing at all when I step on the pedal. The pedal is hard not soft. I rebuilt the entire braking system right before I parked it in 2008 and it was great then, but it has sat on jack stands since. I also have electrical problems I will need to fix before driving. I have no brake lights or turn signals. The tachometer and clock are not working either. So there is a lot I need to address before I can even drive it. Plenty of content yet to come Ronald.

  • @jean-lucrombouts207
    @jean-lucrombouts207 14 днів тому

    What an adventure it has been, congratulations for this amazing achievement, you should be very proud.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 13 днів тому

      @@jean-lucrombouts207 how have you been Jean-Luc? I do feel good. It worked and worked pretty well. I have a lot of little details and some electrical to go. But it’s coming along nicely.

  • @jeanmichel3
    @jeanmichel3 18 днів тому

    Fantastic work, thank you sir 🇮🇹

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 15 днів тому

      @@jeanmichel3 thanks! I can’t wait for a drive after I sort out a few issues.

  • @christianbaraldi2137
    @christianbaraldi2137 19 днів тому

    So nice Tony, so nice. I´m putting together a brand new rotisserie, so you can imagine at what point I´m at hahaha. Soooo far to go. Be sure to document the first ride.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 19 днів тому

      @@christianbaraldi2137 now that’s the way to do it. Are you posting your build anywhere? I’m interested 🧰

  • @johnpearson492
    @johnpearson492 22 дні тому

    Thanks for the video, I've just done this today. I found it was easier to slide the seals onto the injectors first rather than setting them on top of the holders then inserting the injectors. Awesome video!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 22 дні тому

      @@johnpearson492 good idea. I appreciate you sharing that method. I probably should have tried it that way as well. What engine are you working on?

    • @johnpearson492
      @johnpearson492 22 дні тому

      @TonyLiveTV Same as you and M117 in a 1986 560SL. I've been having hard starting problems that I suspect are from bad injectors but could also be from the leaking fuel pump that I am in the process of replacing as well.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 22 дні тому

      @ hard starting, cold start, hot start. I hear this all the time. After fixing the leak, test the pressures and make sure it holds (see manual), and that should help you identify where the problem is. If your injectors are leaking I don’t think that would cause a hard start. I realize a leaking injector is dry, but all the fuel and pressure is at the fuel distributor waiting for the sensor plate to tell it to release fuel (vacuum moves plate if not stepping on pedal). The injectors fire off around 55-60 psi or something like that and it only takes a split second for your dual pumps to do that. I think a bad injector symptom would be different like a ruff idle, poor gas mileage and stuff like that. On the other hand, if the injector doesn’t fire (clogged or stuck rather than leaking), you would have more problems than starting. Electrical can cause hard starting too. You go over the ignition part of things with a multimeter for free! Let me know what you find. I am interested to know what you find.

  • @MartinHennebry
    @MartinHennebry 24 дні тому

    Tony, superb job. Did you check the engine vacuum with a gauge ? If so, how many inches, what was the idle speed, please ? I did not get what you said about the o2 sensor and significance of the multimeter, could you explain it with a little more detail, please ? I’m getting 16 inches and at and idle of 900 revs. I know the former figure should be higher and the latter lower. I have replaced most of the large and small vacuum lines.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

      @@MartinHennebry all great questions. Optimal idle speed in Park/Neutral: ~650-750 RPM and In Drive (with brakes applied): ~500-600 RPM. Optimal vacuum at idle of manifold vacuum: ~17-22 inHg. What you saw me do with the multimeter is test the duty-cycle (air/fuel mixture). You need a multimeter that has the duty function or an oscilloscope. You connect the positive probe to pin 3 and the negative probe to pin 2 or a good ground to test. The engine needs to be at operating temperature. You are wanting a reading of 50%. You then use the mixture adjustment screw to make changes. If you make changes make absolutely sure you can put things back where you found it. You can make adjustments with the engine running. Make small changes (1/8 turn) and hit the throttle and watch the meter. In my case you saw it was stuck at around 80.4% at idle. A steady reading of 80.4% at idle is an indication that the system is likely running in open-loop mode. This could mean that the engine control unit (ECU) is not adjusting the air-fuel mixture based on the O2 sensor input, possibly due to a fault or condition that prevents closed-loop operation. But that’s not the only thing that can cause this. A vacuum leak or even a coolant sensor can do this. Trust me, the journey is never over.

  • @TonyLiveTV
    @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

    Why I Chose Shell ROTELLA T4 15W-40 for Break-In? Shell ROTELLA T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 isn’t marketed as a "break-in" oil, but that doesn’t mean it lacks the right chemistry. Its zinc content (ZDDP) of 1,200 ppm makes it ideal for the break-in of flat tappet engines like the Mercedes-Benz M117. This additive is crucial for reducing wear during initial operation and ensuring a proper mating of engine components. I first learned about ROTELLA from a master Mercedes-Benz engine builder who has rebuilt thousands of these engines. ROTELLA is his go-to for break-in oil, and his experience speaks volumes about its effectiveness. For those who want more data, lubrication experts at Total Seal Piston Rings tested 26 different oils-including oils labeled as "break-in" oils. ROTELLA performed just as well as the specialized options, proving that you don’t always need a product with a “break-in” label to achieve the same results. In fact, none of the oils in their testing were flawless, but ROTELLA held its own among the best. For more details, you can check out their report here: www.speediagnostix.com/total-seal

  • @OB928
    @OB928 24 дні тому

    Excellent work and even better results! Kudos for a job well done.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

      @@OB928 hay David long time no see or hear from. I hope all is well. Slowly I move forward and sometimes backwards too. Now that the engine is running I have more work to do. It never ends with an old car does it?

    • @OB928
      @OB928 23 дні тому

      @ I’ve been watching and keeping up with your progress, just kept my mouth shut, ha ha. Just curious, did you replace the rear diff mount when you serviced it? Seems like a WYAI item, but I could be wrong.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 23 дні тому

      @ oh yes I replaced the rear mount. I rebuilt the entire drivetrain which now includes the transmission. Rear subs, front subs, all steering, you name it, I rebuilt it. The rear differential was difficult. I had to find a shop that had a big enough press and a few special tools. I told them exactly what to do, but they of course didn’t follow my instructions so I made them do it again and I stood there and watched them. At this point I don’t think there is anything mechanical I did not rebuild or replace. I did all the suspension stuff before I started this channel. I have hundreds of pics, but no video. The entire suspension including both subframes took me about 1 1/2 years to complete working only on weekends. Basically the body was off the frame. If I knew what was ahead, I would have removed the engine and transmission then so the body could go in for a repaint and make this vehicle show ready. The body has one small dent the size of a quarter which something like DentDr could fix without painting. It happened while sitting in this garage for the past 17 years. It also needs a new soft top. My 560SL was ordered with a dark brown top rather than the more common black. My 1987 560SL with a Signal Red (DB 568) exterior, Palomino interior, and a dark brown (8023) soft top is a relatively rare configuration with only a few hundred delivered.

  • @gerryvanzandt7894
    @gerryvanzandt7894 24 дні тому

    On an M117, with its followers in the valvetrain, it is IMPERATIVE that you use the correct oil. You really should use motor oil with high ZDDP additives to reduce friction on the followers. Modern oils (even diesel oils such as the Rotella that you showed) don’t have enough of these friction relievers. Ask me how I know with my 1989 M117 (560SEC). I wore out a few cam lobes with low ZDDP oil about 15 years ago, even at my religious 3,000 mile oil change intervals. Experts recommend oils designed specifically for US muscle cars, such as Penn Grade One (20W-50 for your climate). Don’t ruin all of your hard work. The damage to the lobes and followers happens very gradually. Consult with Tasos or other experts (Jonathan Hodgman at Blue Ridge Mercedes in Atlanta) and they will confirm this. Hate to see you use modern oils in an engine that has special needs….. nice work !

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

      I agree to some extent Gerry. But this engine does not have new cams, rockers or even new lifters so what is breaking in? Technically the engine has already had a break-in. These are Alusil cylinders with Mercedes low friction rings (not your typical aftermarket). The master builder I am working with claims this oil is better than any break-in oil for these engines (zero fails in over 1,000 engines). Of course this is his opinion, but he has much more experience than I do. When he first told me about the oil I said the same thing as you. I asked him if I should add zinc or use a special break-in oil. He said he built thousands of engines and the Rotella is what he uses. He said it must be X-40 and not other weights. You saw the results here of my oil change. It sure looked good to me. I have put in a request to Shell asking them for clarification on whether this oil is suitable as a break-in oil. Hopefully they answer me.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

      @@gerryvanzandt7894here you go Gerry. This is the answer I received from Shell Just now: Case No: 00585944 Enquiry: RE: Shell Rotella® T4 15W-40 as Break-In Oil? Hi Tony, Shell ROTELLA T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 has a typical zinc (ZDDP) content of 1200 ppm. We've had multiple customers use it as break-in oil and continue to use it on their classic cars after the break-in. Hope this clarifies.

    • @gerryvanzandt7894
      @gerryvanzandt7894 24 дні тому

      @@TonyLiveTV It's not about breaking in. Use whatever you want for that, because it's very short term. It's not about the cylinder walls/wear. It's about ongoing running of the engine. The geometry of the cam followers and the cam lobes is very high impact/high friction, and the motor oil requires Zinc and Phosphorus in the motor oil to combat this friction. Modern oils over the past 25 years have been steadily decreasing the levels of zinc and phosphorus in the oils (per API requirements) to protect catalytic converters in modern cars. This reduction has dramatically increased the wear and issues in the valvetrains of muscle cars, and other engines (such as the MB M117, and M103) with this type of setup and geometry. Note that assembly lubes and break-in motor oils contain HUGE levels of ZDDP in them, to combat friction from initial startup/use. But again, this is very temporary becuase typically (as you have) you change the initial motor oil quickly to ensure there are no particles/shavings/issues. But for ongoing use, you NEED to use an oil -- specifically in the M117 -- that has the additives needed to alleviate valvetrain friction. Over time, too much ZDDP is actually a bad thing for an engine, which is why break-in oils should only be used temporarily before reverting to a regular motor oil. THere is plenty of information about this issue in the M117 on the internet. Folks in the know (and me, from direct experience) will tell you NOT to use modern oils because of the lack of zinc and phosphorus. The follow-on engines, the M104 and M119 (of which I have both) have a completely different geometry and valvetrain design, with bucket tappets (no cam followers) and much less friction. For these, you can use modern oils. I use in my M104s the analog oil to your Rotella, called Chevron DELO 400 15W-40, which is also a diesel oil with a good detergent package to keep things clean inside the engine. And changed every 3,000 miles. Also, the M117 likes heavier weight oils. At the MINIMUM would be something like a 10W-30 oil, but ONLY in very very cold climates. I have always run 20W-50 oil in my M117, since I first got it back in 2002. My engine has 250,000 miles on it, and I rebuilt it back in 2010 at 183,000 miles (cam/follower failure due to using oils with too little ZDDP over a number of years). Shell is going to tell you that any of their oils are perfect for anything. But they don't know squat about the M117 and its design, and its need for ongoing use of motor oils with zinc and phosphorus in levels of 1,200 PPM or higher. They will tell you that their current motor oils are perfect for any application !! I just hate to see you use a modern oil in your engine -- which has special needs -- that doesn't have the additives in it that your valvetrain geometry needs. The right oil will properly protect your valvetrain. If you do a Google search for "Mercedes M117 zddp" you'll find a wealth of information. Good luck!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

      @ the answer I received from Shell tells me what I need to know. I have researched this topic when I first asked the question about zinc. Master builders and lubricant specialists including Lake Speed Jr of Total Seal (Oil Analyst / Lubrication Specialist) agree that a zinc (ZDDP) content of 1200 ppm is more than adequate for flat tappet break-in. Some say as little as 800 ppm is adequate. And most all agree that more than this can actually do more harm than good. Maybe the oil you used had detergent which is not good in this case. The reason they started removing zinc in the late 80’s is because it destroys catalytic converters. That’s why you need to be careful with additives. These are the experts who know more on this than you and I do and I’m not about to argue their expertise on this subject.

    • @gerryvanzandt7894
      @gerryvanzandt7894 24 дні тому

      @@TonyLiveTV Yepp -- Shell told you that their oil is great! Well, you are kinda saying the same thing as my previous answer. 800 ppm of ZDDP is not enough for an M117, unfortunately. You need 1100-1300 ppm. Much above 1300 is too much. The oil I used that ruined my M117 cam and a couple of followers was Chevron Supreme 20W-50 -- an excellent mainstream oil, but one where they gradually decreased the ZDDP over a period of years, and I didn't follow that decrease as they evolved the API service grades. And my oil was religiously changed every 2,000-3,000 miles, with filter, and I have the records to prove it :) It's my fault for continuing to use an oil over a period of years that was increasingly not suited to the M117. After my rebuild I have used Penn GradeOne, which is specifically designed for flat-tappet and muscle car applications. It is an excellent oil, and key US M117 experts recommend and use it for their customers. I've not had an issue in 14 years, and the cam that I replaced continues to look like the day it was new, with the oil that I have been using with an appropriate additive package. I would never ever ever use any modern oil in an M117, but it's a free country :)

  • @faen25
    @faen25 24 дні тому

    The journey to success is always better than the results. Get another project as soon you can Tony.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 24 дні тому

      @@faen25 this project is far from over. You might be surprised to learn that I don’t have a desire to drive the car. In fact, I may never drive it. I’ll continue to work on it and finish it up, but I don’t care to drive it at all. I like looking at classic cars, but I don’t enjoy owning them. They are money pits, they get horrible gas mileage, they are high polluters, and they break down all the time.

    • @faen25
      @faen25 24 дні тому

      I completely agree

  • @igoriakoven3665
    @igoriakoven3665 24 дні тому

    Good ,Congratulations !

  • @igoriakoven3665
    @igoriakoven3665 24 дні тому

    Good on ya, Tony!

  • @Mercedesdriver2012
    @Mercedesdriver2012 24 дні тому

    hello Tony. the M117 is running better and better 👍🍀🍀🍀🍀😁. Oil filter looked good 🙏. I'm happy for you. best regards from Germany. Michael

  • @improvMANIAComedyClub
    @improvMANIAComedyClub 24 дні тому

    1 dollar Bob!

  • @HadiMabkhot-vr7of
    @HadiMabkhot-vr7of 24 дні тому

    Congratulations it's work very smooth 👏👏👏

  • @furmanterryrichardson7107
    @furmanterryrichardson7107 26 днів тому

    well, the 911 rabbit hole is 10 times deeper, and has very sharp teeth!!!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 26 днів тому

      @@furmanterryrichardson7107 depending on the year of 911. 70’s era were easy and fairly inexpensive to work on. I can pull an engine in less than 1 hour. My 2008 BMW is a nightmare as well. The Germans over engineer everything except the Volkswagen (pre 80’s). That was an easy German vehicle to work on and super cheap too. American cars were fantastic before the mid 70’s with huge engine bays and cheap parts. Not any more however. I personally hate the automobile. I don’t like driving them, I don’t like working on them and I don’t like spending money on them. What a waste of time and money. The truth is, I just want it out of the garage so I can retire without the headache. I had the first start and break-in last week and to be honest, I didn’t get excited or even feel good about it. All it meant is the path is open for me to follow another rabbit hole called electrical.

  • @gerryvanzandt7894
    @gerryvanzandt7894 29 днів тому

    Tony, I hope you do a LOT of studying on the KE-Jet system in terms of ensuring it is adjusted correctly. It helps to have a set of proper gauges to measure fuel pressure in the upper and lower parts of the fuel distributor. You should almost NEVER have to adjust that mixture via the 3mm hex wrench in the tower. This is a “Band-Aid” approach that far too many people take to “adjust” the system, when there are other issues that actually require diagnosis and adjustment. I always cringe a bit when people adjust the mixture. There’s a big reason why MB put a ball-bearing in the top of that tower when these cars were new … to discourage people from doing this “adjustment.”

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 29 днів тому

      @@gerryvanzandt7894 I will be diving into this deeper of course. In this video you will notice I say don’t touch the screw. I only did this because I could not start it otherwise as I mentioned. I thought I was clear about that. I’ll clarify this in a future video. The sensor plate had only .26mm of play when I started. This made it way too rich and when I tried to assist the plate to start it, it would flood. Solution is to make it lean which is exactly what I did (first start video). I turned the mixture screw 1/4 turn CCW twice (1/2 turn). That allowed me to feather the throttle with my fingertip and start it as you saw in that video. So now in this video I richen it up by turning the mixture screw CW 1/4 turn. This allowed the engine to start right up without my sensor plate assistance (NICE). And after removing the spark plugs I can see it is running almost perfectly. It is just a little bit lean on a couple of cylinders. Removing the plugs and watching this video many times, led me to uncover something else as well. In this video it shows the problem I saw, but I doubt anyone here will notice it. After fixing this it will be great even without me adjusting the Duty cycle which eventually I will do. So now I’ve adjusted the screw 1/4 CCW in total. When it’s all done and over with I bet the mixture screw will end up right where it was when I started. I also record everything I do so putting things back is easy for me. I have the Bosch fuel pressure test kit and I’ll be checking pressures for sure.

    • @gerryvanzandt7894
      @gerryvanzandt7894 27 днів тому

      @@TonyLiveTV That's good and I gotcha on why you did it, out of temporary necessity & convenience. I've just seen SO SO SO many people over the years tweak that screw, and even mess up their fuel distributor doing it, that I literally cringe any time I see someone fiddling with that. Many years ago I did a HOW-TO on how to adjust the EHA, which is another fine adjustment that can easily be mis-used, although fewer people know about it. The EHA adjust really helps with initial acceleration and throttle response, though. Glad you have the fuel pressure gauges. Uncle Kent at Mercedessource has a kit that is seemingly good for DIYers, a relatively new thing he has begun selling. For a long time I used a duty-cycle capable multimeter (with my DMM, I had to mentally invert the reading on the fly, as it is displayed as the inverse of the actual reading as MB defines it). The other issue is that the DMM duty-cycle reading is instantaneous, so it is constantly jumping all over as it samples the reading from the two pins you connect. This jumpiness of the reading requires you to sort of "squint" as you are looking at the DMM display and sort of mentally smooth it out yourself. Eventually after many years of looking, I got the Bosch duty-cycle meter (special tool) that "smooths" the reading into a continuously displayed reading via a needle on the meter, which is a nice luxury and ensures a much smoother reading. Granted it wasn't cheap and it's exceedingly hard to find, but it's a wonderful luxury to have. Do let me know if you would like me to ship it to you so that you can use it in your fine-tuning process. Happy to send it, as long as you send it back to me !!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 27 днів тому

      @ I hear you Gerry. I measure first so I can bring it back when need be. I have the same fuel test kit that Kent sells. It’s available on Amazon for under $55. I think Kent now only sells the gauge because he doesn’t like the one that came with the fuel kits. Using the duty measurement of a multimeter does jump a lot from what I understand. Having the real tool would be fantastic. I was thinking of purchasing a hand held oscilloscope to see how well that might work, but I would much rather use the real tool. Thanks for offering Gerry. Currently the duty cycle reading is way off as you saw in the video. I may have an issue with the lambda probe. I haven’t had a chance to work on it. I hope to get back to it later in the week. You can DM me via messenger to exchange contact info. I’m on Facebook facebook.com/tonylive.tv

    • @gerryvanzandt7894
      @gerryvanzandt7894 27 днів тому

      @@TonyLiveTV Hi Tony, the comments here keep rejecting my reply, so best to reach me at the 500 E board site.

  • @charlestimmis273
    @charlestimmis273 Місяць тому

    Congrats, job well done...

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV 29 днів тому

      @@charlestimmis273 thanks Charles.

  • @Ravenola
    @Ravenola Місяць тому

    Great video.I am going to change crancshaft seal on my m112 engine and was confused what sealant to use. After this video I definately wont go with MB oem staff. Interesting to see the tests or hear your pinion on Permatex sealants, there is also hondabond #4, Three bond 1194, 1184, yamaha bond 4, Victor Reinz sealant, Dreibond (from BMW) and etc.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@Ravenola I used the Toyota sealant and after the break-in of my m117 engine I found zero leaks. It’s good stuff and easy to apply. I’m sure there are many good sealants besides Toyota. I just know a lot of builder use it and so far I can’t say anything bad about it. I have not used much RTV sealants so I can’t compare. The older vehicles like my 50’s-60’s Volkswagens didn’t use sealants.

    • @Ravenola
      @Ravenola Місяць тому

      @@TonyLiveTV Thanks, I`ll go with Toyota.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @ Tasos introduced it to me. He’s been using it for years. youtube.com/@tasosmoschatos?si=f8Pjt2FJD4ks6KNG

  • @Mercedesdriver2012
    @Mercedesdriver2012 Місяць тому

    Hello Tony. So far everything seems to be fine with the M117 🔧🔧. Make sure the ATF level in the automatic transmission is correct. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you 🍀🍀🍀🍀. Best wishes from Germany. Michael.

  • @hoyozela
    @hoyozela Місяць тому

    Once again congrats. At the start of this project. You were unsure of how it will end. Talking about selling the old gal. Now you are full of smiles. 😊 Still thinking about selling her? Loved watching this project.❤

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@hoyozela I’m still unsure how this ends. My next video might answer that question. My guess is my wife opens the door to the garage and she sees my feet sticking out from under. I would sell her in a heartbeat if the price were right. Last march a 1987 560SL sold at auction for $250,000! It had super low mileage, but everything is 38 years old. Which would you purchase? The one sold at auction for $250,000 or my brand new 1987 560SL for $100,000? 🤔

  • @rick_dunn
    @rick_dunn Місяць тому

    Congratulations on the successful rebuild!!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@rick_dunn thanks Rick. It took me three long years part time and thousands of dollars to rebuild this engine. Parts are getting scarce and extremely expensive. I don’t think I would do it again.

  • @mercedeske
    @mercedeske Місяць тому

    Bravo, Tony, great work!👍The car runs great!🚗😎You deserved it after all that hard work!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@mercedeske thank you buddy. Unfortunately it’s not over yet. I have electrical issues, no brakes or brake lights, the duty cycle is not achievable yet and a bunch of other issues I don’t even want to think about. Compare any other electrical diagram with Mercedes and you will never want a Mercedes again. I can’t make heads or tails of their diagrams.

  • @mercedesmaintenance.6339
    @mercedesmaintenance.6339 Місяць тому

    Bravo Tony!! Very nice work. The nights when you're thinking about all those hundreds of details has paid off. I'm so happy for you my friend. All the best Cheers John 🍻

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@mercedesmaintenance.6339 thank you John. Yes it ran and it did ok 👌 but it’s still a 38 year old vehicle and things are failing on it as I write this email. You of all people know the journey never ends with these old cars unfortunately.

  • @kalfoogaltmimi5043
    @kalfoogaltmimi5043 Місяць тому

    Well, my dear friend, I have understood the method of disassembly and installation😊😊😊

  • @Ravenola
    @Ravenola Місяць тому

    Is that crack on cover caused by pressing the seal without oil pan or it was already cracked?

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@Ravenola yes it was my fault. If you want to install the rear main seal without the pan installed then remove the cover and install it on the bench like I did in this video: 560SL - Installing End Cover & Rear Main Seal - The Easy Way! ua-cam.com/video/5SUmxgLimQI/v-deo.html

  • @kalfoogaltmimi5043
    @kalfoogaltmimi5043 Місяць тому

    Dear friend, I don't know how to disassemble the oil pump Does removing the pump require completely removing the engine chest?

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@kalfoogaltmimi5043 You can remove the oil pump without removing the engine. All I can say is read the manual because it will tell you how. My videos can show you how I did it and I did it with the engine removed.

  • @richardblangy9240
    @richardblangy9240 Місяць тому

    Congratulations for this first victory ! We're now all looking for the next steps and the first road test. My 87 560sl say hello from Chardonnay in France ^^

  • @moemonney
    @moemonney Місяць тому

    Tony, Why leave on the rust catching aftermarket chrome wheel arches?

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@moemonney those were installed by the dealer in 1987 and it’s on the invoice and delivery sticker which I have. This was a common upgrade at the time specially a California vehicle. They were properly installed with aluminum rivets. These are stainless arches and not steel. They will never rust. Nothing can rust in dry Arizona. Will I ever removed them? If I decide to repaint the vehicle I may tig weld/fill the rivet holes to do it properly. I keep them on for the same reason I keep the USA bumpers and twin headlights. I want to keep it as it was when delivered. The only thing I have changed are the wheels. I have the original wheels and spare. The spare tire is the original Pirelli if you can believe it.

  • @kalfoogaltmimi5043
    @kalfoogaltmimi5043 Місяць тому

    My dear friend, you did not explain the method of disassembly and installation if the engine was installed in the car

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      The process is the same in or out of the vehicle. It’s easier the way I did it if course. Read the manual and you will see the removal and installation of the oil pump is the same.

  • @kalfoogaltmimi5043
    @kalfoogaltmimi5043 Місяць тому

    Hello my friend, how to install the oil pump. Do you have a video? You are a wonderful mechanic. I admire you very much. I have learned a lot from you😊😊

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@kalfoogaltmimi5043 that you for the comment. Of course I have a video or two about the oil pump. If it is on or in that engine then there is a video about it somewhere. What I have tried to do is put videos in playlists to make it easier for people to find what they are interested in. In this case your answer is in the The M116, M117 Oil Pump playlist located here: ua-cam.com/play/PLQAW1udK_cOj6BksK13thWm8iMJjJeZDD.html

  • @MikesMercsandothercars
    @MikesMercsandothercars Місяць тому

    Really clear video - I wish more people took the time to really show how to test these things. I spent a year trying to diagnose the rough running of my dads E Type out in South France....and it turned out to be a faulty ignition lead with an intermittent fault. Mike

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@MikesMercsandothercars thanks Mike. I had a couple of electrical problems. I sure am glad I caught the coil lead wire. You can see in the video it tested good. But when I push the multimeter probe and hold the cable it checks out because the forces kept the wires together. Once I lifted my finger there was no continuity. That could have drove me crazy 🤪 figuring that out.

    • @MikesMercsandothercars
      @MikesMercsandothercars Місяць тому

      @@TonyLiveTV Yep...reckon you dodged a bullet there..... Mike

  • @that_random_dad
    @that_random_dad Місяць тому

    🎉🎉🎉

  • @jean-lucrombouts207
    @jean-lucrombouts207 Місяць тому

    Congratulations !!!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Hey buddy! Somehow it just happened. I have a few issues to work out, but I know I’ll be driving it soon. Thanks for supporting me friend.

  • @bappilu
    @bappilu Місяць тому

    Congrats Tony!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Thank you Lushan. It felt fantastic hearing the engine turn for the first time in 16 years. I can’t wait to drive it somewhere.

  • @paayoub
    @paayoub Місяць тому

    finally its happening

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Can you believe it? I said I would do it. Thanks for your support and comments.

  • @gerryvanzandt7894
    @gerryvanzandt7894 Місяць тому

    Always a lot of fine work that has to happen once you build an engine. Very nice work. Now you have the bedding-in period. Congrats. Please document your break in period too. And you are right - DO NOT mess around with your KE-Jet mixture screw.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Gerry, Gerry, Gerry. How are you man? Can you believe it finally happened? I’ve been following your posts in the forums for years. You were part of this build. So if it breaks down I will have someone to blame it on. ❤

  • @MrEspokeY
    @MrEspokeY Місяць тому

    Congratulations 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @@MrEspokeY how have you been Pawel? The first drive is what I’m looking forward to. Thank you for supporting my channel.

  • @waynehayes8237
    @waynehayes8237 Місяць тому

    Congratulations.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Thank you Wayne. I see from your photo that. You are a R107 fan.

  • @hamdandost6707
    @hamdandost6707 Місяць тому

    Congrats Mr Tony for the 1st start Amazing you worked hard from your heart Wish you best of luck

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Thank you for the comment Hamdan. I’m looking forward to the next chapter.

  • @SergeyMikhaylov762
    @SergeyMikhaylov762 Місяць тому

    Congratulations Mr. Tony!!! I wait star about year!!! Respect from m117.968 owner!!!! 👍💪

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Hey Sergey. I waited 3 years!!! And before the UA-cam channel it sat in my garage since 2008. It felt really good to hear that engine roar 🦁

  • @armandmouton4181
    @armandmouton4181 Місяць тому

    Hay Tony. Congratulations on the start. Wish you all the best moving forward. From Namibia Armand 🎉

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Hi there Armand. I just looked up Namibia because I had not heard of it before. It looks like Namibia is an amazing place with interesting landscapes. Some of the places look like something you might find on Mars 👽

  • @mercedeske
    @mercedeske Місяць тому

    Congratulations, Tony I told you the car will start!😃🍀🍀🍀

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Yes you did. From the very start you told me that. You had more confidence in me than I did in myself. It’s not over yet. I want to thank you for your videos. I have watched many of them over and over. You have helped me a lot. Thanks!❤

    • @mercedeske
      @mercedeske Місяць тому

      @TonyLiveTV It was my pleasure 🙏🏻 ☺ 😊 Now we wait for the live video to hear the car idling!

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @ sounds like a plan!

  • @hoyozela
    @hoyozela Місяць тому

    Congrats on successfully starting your vehicle.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      I did it!🎉 It’s all starting to fall together.

  • @Mercedesdriver2012
    @Mercedesdriver2012 Місяць тому

    Hello Tony. The M117 starts and runs 👍👍🙏. A long, long rocky road 🔧🔧🔧 comes to a happy end 🍀🍀🍀🍀. I'm very happy for you! Best wishes from Germany. Michael.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Thank you Michael. I can’t wait to get it all back together and drive it. Those are the videos I’m looking forward to making.

    • @Mercedesdriver2012
      @Mercedesdriver2012 Місяць тому

      @TonyLiveTV ,🍀🔧🍀🔧🍀🔧😁🍀🔧

  • @HadiMabkhot-vr7of
    @HadiMabkhot-vr7of Місяць тому

    😀👍👍👍👍

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      Thank you Hadi. What are you driving or working on?

    • @HadiMabkhot-vr7of
      @HadiMabkhot-vr7of Місяць тому

      @TonyLiveTV w126 restoration 1987 but not like you because you are the best good luck 💖💖

    • @HadiMabkhot-vr7of
      @HadiMabkhot-vr7of Місяць тому

      W126 se m103

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @ the w126 is a beautifully built automobile. It’s the luxury 560sl with 4 doors 🚪 🚪🚪🚪.

    • @TonyLiveTV
      @TonyLiveTV Місяць тому

      @ the m103 is one of the best engines ever made. They can last forever when they are cared for.