This is a good starting point video for all levels. Picked up a few things, a couple I've known and forgot. Just a suggestion, Get a small pillar candle to go with that lighter. It'll free a hand up for stretching Sprue and give you better control when heating the plastic.
This video is perfect for the model building hobbyist. I struggle to get close to the real thing on a daily basis. It has great ideas and is very impressive. I found it helpful in many ways. Looking forward to seeing more.
There are times when doing research can turn up others' mistakes, often due to a lack of information available at the time. A while back, I purchased the Zoukei-Mura Ho 229 kit, and have been researching the details of the aircraft. I recently turned up an interesting detail -- all of the built kits I've seen, including the one pictured on Z-M's website and in their reference book, show unfinished or clear-varnished plywood on the inside of the skin, but the NASM website shows that the interior of the skin -- at least in the center section near the engines -- was painted with an off-green fire-resistant coating to protect the skin from the heat of the engines. But this wasn't revealed until a year after the models had been built, so it was a mistake working with the information available at the time.
Cool little video, looking forward to the sea harrier video. Harriers have a special place with me. I was in the 2nd Marine Air Wing when they first started to deploy them. I didn't work on this bird, but remember watching them on the flight line, taxi way, take and land. It was very exiting to see them. And something totally new (at least for me) at the time. I subbed today.
Good basic information. I've found that even that can be valuable for a veteran modeler because nearly everyone does certain tasks a little differently and I will often see something done in a new way (to me) that I will adopt to improve my techniques. Consider me a new subscriber.
The rolling paper tip is very interesting. I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but when I changed my guitar strings yesterday, I looked at the clippings and had a eureka moment. Going to try using them for different details.
Great info. I know and use most of those techniques. I despise superglue, so I dread the use of PE, although it's often needed. The tip on cigarette paper was new and interesting. Thanks, Ralph
@@MannsModelMoments I am also taking this hobby up after a long hiatus to interest my son to the hobby. I am particularly struggling with washes as I can only use acrylics. I have bad reactions toenamel fumes, laquer fumes as well as thinner fumes. I know I could probably wear a mask, but this is not comfortable nor pleasant. I would be interested to have any tips or tricks on this regard. Looking forward to the next video.
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Monday, 12 August, 2024) EDITED FOR CONTENT Attention, viewers: I heartily validate Mr. Mann’s channel for 1) his erudition and diversity of knowledge in all things applicable to model-building, 2) his quietly dignified manner, and 3) his professional, engagingly well-spoken presentation in his videos. I urge everyone in modelling to subscribe to his channel, and to participate as fully as you can, especially to tell every kit assembler you know to do likewise. And, last but not least, Mr. Mann from what I can see online is an excellent model-builder. Here can one learn from the best!
Stretching sprue. For fine wires heat the sprue up until you can pull it into 2. Immediately touch melted end back together and pull. You will get much finer rods.
I have a box just for collecting spare parts. I have rockets, bombs, fuel tanks, even engine cowlings and canopies from various kits. I don't have an airbrush as I don't have an appropriate area to setup and use it as well as the entry cost is too high, so I have spray cans of glosscote and dullcote from Testors. I have tried the glosscote, but it always comes out wavy and never smooth. Any chance you could do a video on preparing a kit for spraying clear glosscote on? Or maybe give suggestions on what I might be doing wrong?
Hi Alex.. you mentioned foil for seatbelts etc. Would supermarket own brand kitchen foil be OK for that? Pretty cheap and a single roll would probably last years :)
It is all well and good doing all this detail, cockpits, engines etc, and I do love doing it, but half the time you (or anyone else) never gets to see it as it just gets covered up. I wish more kit makers would include the option of a transparent panel. I'm in two minds about cutting a panel out and on models to show it off.
It's a valid point - I detail for visibility, so if you're not going to be able to see anything, I won't do it. A good example is the cockpit of an Avro Vulcan - the front seats might get something, but everything else (especially as the interior was black!)....no!
Wonder if there will ever be a kit that requires zero additions other than paint and glue that is 'perfect' OOB? I doubt it. But there are kits that look fantastic OOB.
Can you tell me which Is better today acrylic or enamel for the airbrush ? I am going to be working on a Revell corsair I received as a gift. I have been out of modeling for a while and getting back. I'm lost on the new paints.
Having used both, acrylics are far easier and have overtaken enamels in most respects. There are those that prefer enamels, but dealing with organic solvents in an airbrush is unpleasant to say the least, and I haven't had any issues with acrylics that I haven't also had with enamels. There are a vast number of enamels available today and their relatively inexpensive, if you're buying new I'd recommend wither Vallejo or AK Interactive 3G - they do specific WWII shades and sets.
@@MannsModelMoments Thank you for your reply. I have been out of scale modeling for a while when bottle paint was $0.25 cents a bottle. As long as acrylics are reliable I'll go with them . What is the best way to hold the colors from wearing off?
The introduction seems to be recorded in mono audio, it only comes out of the left speaker. The rest of the video does not have this issue. Its an easy thing to miss. Also thank you for making this video, It was very informative and I think will be helpful in my model building
Thanks for the heads-up - I don't review videos on headphones so that's a good catch! Unfortunately I can't edit videos after uploading, but I'll try to watch for thei is future. Also glad it helped and hope it does come in useful 🙂
This is a good starting point video for all levels. Picked up a few things, a couple I've known and forgot.
Just a suggestion, Get a small pillar candle to go with that lighter. It'll free a hand up for stretching Sprue and give you better control when heating the plastic.
Good tip!
Most importantly, for me, a magnifying lamp! Great video - thanks.
Excellent video.
I never considered using cigarette papers for cloth/tarps/etc. Great idea.
Thanks!
This video is perfect for the model building hobbyist.
I struggle to get close to the real thing on a daily basis.
It has great ideas and is very impressive. I found it helpful in many ways.
Looking forward to seeing more.
Thank you for the kind words! Weathering items video is up tomorrow....
There are times when doing research can turn up others' mistakes, often due to a lack of information available at the time. A while back, I purchased the Zoukei-Mura Ho 229 kit, and have been researching the details of the aircraft. I recently turned up an interesting detail -- all of the built kits I've seen, including the one pictured on Z-M's website and in their reference book, show unfinished or clear-varnished plywood on the inside of the skin, but the NASM website shows that the interior of the skin -- at least in the center section near the engines -- was painted with an off-green fire-resistant coating to protect the skin from the heat of the engines. But this wasn't revealed until a year after the models had been built, so it was a mistake working with the information available at the time.
Cool little video, looking forward to the sea harrier video. Harriers have a special place with me. I was in the 2nd Marine Air Wing when they first started to deploy them. I didn't work on this bird, but remember watching them on the flight line, taxi way, take and land. It was very exiting to see them. And something totally new (at least for me) at the time. I subbed today.
Thanks!
Great tips lots of stuff I either didn't know or had not thought of. Lots to think about and try. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Good basic information. I've found that even that can be valuable for a veteran modeler because nearly everyone does certain tasks a little differently and I will often see something done in a new way (to me) that I will adopt to improve my techniques. Consider me a new subscriber.
Thank you John and welcome!
The rolling paper tip is very interesting. I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but when I changed my guitar strings yesterday, I looked at the clippings and had a eureka moment. Going to try using them for different details.
Great video! Much appreciated. Thanks! 👍
Well done👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Lots of helpful tips and ideas. Thank you for sharing. Looking forward to the next video. Cheers
Thanks so much! 😊
Kool video, good info for people building wings. I did find sime things useful for model car building, my only builds for now. Thank you for the info.
Cheers!
Great video for newcomers to the hobby. You got a new subscriber will be looking forward to more.
Thank You!
Very helpful. I have trouble with scribing. I will try to find a similar tool to the one you displayed .
Good luck! Scribing can be tricky...I've done a lot recently on the old Airfix F-111E kit and will be sure to cover it more on that video
Great info. I know and use most of those techniques. I despise superglue, so I dread the use of PE, although it's often needed. The tip on cigarette paper was new and interesting. Thanks, Ralph
Superglue can be an "interesting" thing to use, for sure!
@@MannsModelMoments 'Interesting'? As in fingers glued together and tiny parts falling off? LOL
@@rrl4245 Exactly! lol
exellent idea for the beginers, thank for sharing , good video mate ! all the best jy
Glad you enjoyed it!
Research is very important. It is so easy to do today, remember they days of looking for books that had squadron markings?
Yes, though to be honest sometimes some pieces of specific research or images are more easily found or are better in specialist books than on-line!
Hey Alex, great video and some wonderful tips
Thanks!
Excellent stuff. Thanks for the vid. New sub.
Thank You!
@@MannsModelMoments I am also taking this hobby up after a long hiatus to interest my son to the hobby. I am particularly struggling with washes as I can only use acrylics. I have bad reactions toenamel fumes, laquer fumes as well as thinner fumes. I know I could probably wear a mask, but this is not comfortable nor pleasant. I would be interested to have any tips or tricks on this regard. Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for information. I am using Vallejo paints. Really nice to work with .
My pleasure 😊
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Monday, 12 August, 2024)
EDITED FOR CONTENT
Attention, viewers: I heartily validate Mr. Mann’s channel for 1) his erudition and diversity of knowledge in all things applicable to model-building, 2) his quietly dignified manner, and 3) his professional, engagingly well-spoken presentation in his videos. I urge everyone in modelling to subscribe to his channel, and to participate as fully as you can, especially to tell every kit assembler you know to do likewise.
And, last but not least, Mr. Mann from what I can see online is an excellent model-builder. Here can one learn from the best!
Thank you!
I feel foolish: I meant to add that Mr. Mann from what I can see online is an excellent model-builder.
Stretching sprue.
For fine wires heat the sprue up until you can pull it into 2.
Immediately touch melted end back together and pull.
You will get much finer rods.
I have a box just for collecting spare parts. I have rockets, bombs, fuel tanks, even engine cowlings and canopies from various kits. I don't have an airbrush as I don't have an appropriate area to setup and use it as well as the entry cost is too high, so I have spray cans of glosscote and dullcote from Testors. I have tried the glosscote, but it always comes out wavy and never smooth. Any chance you could do a video on preparing a kit for spraying clear glosscote on? Or maybe give suggestions on what I might be doing wrong?
Thanks for the comment and suggestion - it's certainly something I'll consider!
Good stuff, mate!
Hey, thanks!
excellent and informative video!
Thank you!
Awesome video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Subscribed and awesome tips! 👍
Thanks for the sub!
Hi Alex.. you mentioned foil for seatbelts etc. Would supermarket own brand kitchen foil be OK for that? Pretty cheap and a single roll would probably last years :)
Found your channel and subscribed.
Thank you!
Hi I subscribed and hit the bell - Cheers.. Good video!
Thank you, appreciate the support!
Very nice, digestible vid. With regards to the cigarette papers, what use could you have for those on a model?
They make really good scale cloth/tarpaulins - so draped over an AFV or aircraft
It is all well and good doing all this detail, cockpits, engines etc, and I do love doing it, but half the time you (or anyone else) never gets to see it as it just gets covered up. I wish more kit makers would include the option of a transparent panel. I'm in two minds about cutting a panel out and on models to show it off.
It's a valid point - I detail for visibility, so if you're not going to be able to see anything, I won't do it. A good example is the cockpit of an Avro Vulcan - the front seats might get something, but everything else (especially as the interior was black!)....no!
Wonder if there will ever be a kit that requires zero additions other than paint and glue that is 'perfect' OOB? I doubt it. But there are kits that look fantastic OOB.
Can you tell me which Is better today acrylic or enamel for the airbrush ? I am going to be working on a Revell corsair I received as a gift. I have been out of modeling for a while and getting back. I'm lost on the new paints.
Having used both, acrylics are far easier and have overtaken enamels in most respects. There are those that prefer enamels, but dealing with organic solvents in an airbrush is unpleasant to say the least, and I haven't had any issues with acrylics that I haven't also had with enamels. There are a vast number of enamels available today and their relatively inexpensive, if you're buying new I'd recommend wither Vallejo or AK Interactive 3G - they do specific WWII shades and sets.
@@MannsModelMoments Thank you for your reply. I have been out of scale modeling for a while when bottle paint was $0.25 cents a bottle. As long as acrylics are reliable I'll go with them . What is the best way to hold the colors from wearing off?
A decent primer on the plastic, and a coat of top varnish are the best ways to ensure your paint finish lasts
The introduction seems to be recorded in mono audio, it only comes out of the left speaker. The rest of the video does not have this issue. Its an easy thing to miss.
Also thank you for making this video, It was very informative and I think will be helpful in my model building
Thanks for the heads-up - I don't review videos on headphones so that's a good catch! Unfortunately I can't edit videos after uploading, but I'll try to watch for thei is future.
Also glad it helped and hope it does come in useful 🙂
The cost of photo etch bending tools - some of them in the £100 range - is completely unjustified.
get your hands out of the video, very distracting, otherwise good vid.
No, this is how I make videos and most people enjoy them, so I won't be changing their style, sorry.
those cigarette papers also come in a much larger size...
True!